IV. THE SIMPLEST BASKET
The first small basket is but little more difficult to make than the first mat. The spokes are a little longer to allow for turning up, and are of the same sized reed.
Figure 1 shows the successive steps in the construction of the simplest basket. The weaving is started as in Figure 2, chapter II, and is continued until it is about 1⅞ inches in diameter, when the spokes are turned up and become stakes. A glance at Figure 1, a, will show why all the stakes do not stay in a perpendicular position the first time the weaver goes around them. Figure 1, b, shows the weaver twice around and the stakes all standing erect.
The future shape of the basket is determined at this point in the weaving. If a straight, perpendicular-sided basket is wanted, Fig. 1, e, give the weaver tension enough to hold the stakes upright after three or four rows of weaving. If a straight, flaring-sided basket is wanted, Figure 2, a, do not give the first rows of weaving so much tension, thereby allowing the stakes to flare. In weaving all straight-sided baskets, after the stakes stand at a satisfactory angle, be very careful to see that the weaver has no tension whatever. Personal taste and good judgment are the factors which determine the angle of the flare. If a curved-sided basket is wanted, Fig. 2, b, start with the stakes quite flaring, and keep an even tension on the weaver as the weaving progresses and until the desired curve is woven in. Always remember that tension on the weaverwill bring the stakes together. Figure 3 shows the correct method of holding a small basket during the weaving of the sides.
When the basket is woven to the desired height, overcast the weaving around the stakes just as it was done around the spokes of the mat. This process was described and illustrated in chapter II, Fig.7. The basket may then be finished satisfactorily by using either border, a or b, chapter II, Fig. 8. Make the stakes long enough to push through the weaving, as shown in Figure 1, d. This will stiffen the sides of the basket, and give it a more finished appearance. After all the stakes are pushed through, get the curves and loops of the border all regular in outline and the same height either by measurement or by turning the basket bottom side up on a flat surface and making all the loops touch the surface.
Figure 4, a, b, and c, illustrates another simple and very effective construction. The bottom is made with the pairing weave as described and illustrated in chapter II, Fig.9. Four reeds cross four reeds, thus giving sixteen spokes. When the bottom is woven to about two inches in diameter, turn up the spokes asat a, bringing the weavers to the outside. Behind these two and beside a stake, insert a third weaver as shown at b, and weave three rows of triple weaving, chapter I, Fig. 9. Stop this weaving by pushing each weaver down behind and beside a stake and out through the bottom of the basket. Figure 4, c, shows the three weavers as they stick out below the bottom of the basket.[4]Commence the single weaving by the Indian method, chapter I, Fig. 4, and continue it until the desired height has been woven. Insert two more weavers and weave three rows of triple weaving before making the border. Notice the bands formed by this triple weaving.
4. If the weaving is too tight to admit of pushing the weavers down beside the stakes, use a common scratch awl to make room for them. One cannot use the awl too freely in closing borders and making handles.
4. If the weaving is too tight to admit of pushing the weavers down beside the stakes, use a common scratch awl to make room for them. One cannot use the awl too freely in closing borders and making handles.
The border may be closed by one or the other of the closed borders illustrated in chapter III, Fig.2. For small baskets, c is the best closed border I have found. For baskets 5 to 7 inches in diameter b is best, and for those up to 8 or 9 inches use d.
When the single weaving is used for the main body of the basket, and bands of triple weaving are used at the top and bottom, a pleasing variety of designs may be made by weaving either the bands of colored weavers and the body of natural ones, orvice versa.
Figure 5 illustrates the consecutive steps in the making of the twisted handles shown in the lower row of Figure 4. The illustrativework is wound around a piece of wood which takes the place of the upper edge of the basket. A piece of 4 reed is inserted beside the stakes on opposite sides of the rim as shown at Figure 4e. This forms the foundation of the handles, shown on f and j. For the other baskets in Figure 4 two pieces are used. One is inserted beside a stake on one side of the basket, and the other just opposite beside another stake. These are then curved over and inserted beside the third and fourth stake from where they were first inserted, thus forming the semi-circular foundation on which the twisting is done.
A reed, wet until very pliable, is now inserted to the left of the right hand side of the foundation reed, Fig. 5, I. This is now twisted three times around the foundation reed, and comes to the outside of the basket, as shown at 2. It is now put throughto the inside of the basket, outside of the foundation reed, just below the closed border,[5]and brought to the front just below the first twisting, as shown at 3. Follow the first twist back to the starting point, keeping the weaver beside the first twist. Do not let the weaver cross the first one. Keep it beside the first at all times. It now goes to the inside, and is put through to the outside to the right of the foundation reed, and brought up as at 4, and twisted to the left beside the first two until it reaches the point a, where the first, almost universal, error is made. The reed should go to the left of the one already there, as shown at 5, then to the inside of the basket and up to the front, as shown at 6. Twist it back beside the others, put it to the inside and again to the outside to the right of the second. Look out for error b at this point. Figure 7 is correct. Go back and forth once more, and finish as shown at 8. Figure 9 shows the completed handle.
5. This is not absolute. It may be put through much further down if desired, say two, three, or even four rows below the border.
5. This is not absolute. It may be put through much further down if desired, say two, three, or even four rows below the border.
The secret of a good handle is in adjusting the ratio of the foundation weaver, diameter of semi-circle, and number of twists so that when the winding is completed the handle will have the appearance of a closely twisted rope. The handle just described has a 1⅝ inch semi-circular foundation of No. 4 reed, and is bound with No. 2 reed twisted three times around to start with. Winding should always continue until the foundation reed is completely covered. Figure 5, c, shows a handle with a 2 inch semi-circular foundation of No. 4 reed twisted three times around with No. 3 reed. D has a foundation of No. 5 reed twisted with No. 2 reed four twists, and e is another, adapted to a larger basket as a bail handle. Its dimensions and the number of twists are clearly shown. The foundation is No. 5 reed, and the winding weaver is of No. 3. These are sufficient to enable one to judge the ratio which will give a good handle.
In order to take advantage of the constructive decorative features spoken of in chapter I, it is necessary to know how to get the correct number of spokes for any desired diameter of bottom, as the woven figures spoken of in that article are dependent upon the ratio of the number of stakes to the number of weavers. When the bottom of a basket is less than 4 inches in diameter, it is well to have the stakes not more than ½ inch apart, and in those from 4 to 6 inches not more than ¾ inch apart.
It is also my practice in making baskets less than 3 inches in diameter to have the spokes turn up and form the stakes, and for those larger to cut spokes only long enough for the bottom, and insert one stake each side of each spoke after the bottom is woven. This gives twice as many stakes as spokes. When you find out the desired size for the bottom of the basket, decide on the number of stakes. An illustration or two will give you the method of getting this number: For instance, if nine stakes were wanted, have two long spokes cross two long spokes and insert oneshort spoke, as shown in chapter II, Figs.2,3, and4. Weave the bottom the desired diameter, and turn up the nine spokes as stakes. If eighteen stakes were wanted, cut spokes as above only long enough for the bottom. When it is woven insert a stake each side of each spoke, and the result is eighteen stakes.
Three spokes crossing three spokes and turning up when the bottom is woven gives twelve stakes, and if the spokes are cutonly long enough for the bottom and a stake inserted each side of each one the result will be twenty-four stakes.
Four crossing four and turning up will give sixteen, and by insertion thirty-two.
Five crossing five and turning up will give twenty, and by insertion forty.
Then, again, if one is not extra careful to get the spacing of the spokes equal, it will be found easy, when the bottom is partly woven, to insert a stake where two are too far apart or to cut out one where they are too near together. This will never be noticed when the bottom is fully woven. One can easily see that in this way one can get any number of stakes on which to weave. By reference to chapter I, anyone can find the ratio between stakes and weavers used in making the baskets shown in Figure 4. All are made with the triple weave and colored and natural weavers; f and j are about 1¾ inches in diameter at the bottom, g about 4 inches, and h and i about 3½ inches.
The decorativeinitialat the beginning of this chapter shows the adaptation of decorative weavers in making a small demijohn. Its foundation is a quart Vichy bottle. The weavers used canbe easily seen, also the proportionate spacing of bands. The handles are twisted just as on a basket. Stakes and handle foundations are of No. 4 and the weavers of No. 2.
Figure 6 shows a small jug covered with weaving part way up. This was selected for its outline and covered, because it had a large “trade mark” glazed upon its surface. The baskets shown in Figure 6 will be described later.
I purposely omit detailed dimensions. They should be suggested by the one making the basket. What would seem correct to me might offend another, and I do not care to be misunderstood as wishing to force my own taste in matters of proportion upon any one else.
Be yourself fully and completely, and let your work exemplify the fact that you are doing your own thinking and simply using the information you acquire as suggestive of greater possibilities.