Fig. 1032.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Plan.
Fig. 1032.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Plan.
Fig. 1032.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Plan.
that the choir and crossing beneath the central tower are of about that period. The transepts may be later, and, judging from the details of the wide arch which exists in the west wall of the north transept, that arch
Fig. 1033.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. View from North-west, from theMemorabilia.
Fig. 1033.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. View from North-west, from theMemorabilia.
Fig. 1033.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. View from North-west, from theMemorabilia.
must undoubtedly be later, one of the arch-jambs being patched on to the great pillar of the tower. The north gable of this transept was rebuilt in 1823.
The south transept is probably of the same period as the north transept.
Fig. 1034.—St John the Baptist’s, Perth. View from the south.
Fig. 1034.—St John the Baptist’s, Perth. View from the south.
Fig. 1034.—St John the Baptist’s, Perth. View from the south.
A view of the church dated 1775, given in theChronicle of Perth,[71]and of which Fig.1034is a copy, shows the south side of the whole church, and the transept is drawn very much as it still remains. Another view of the south transept, made in 1765, and published in the papers referring to the Blackfriars’ Monastery (where it is by mistake called the “north” front), shows the south transept nearly the same as the above.
A curious row of corbels is partly seen in the interior, projecting through the plaster along the top of the east wall of this transept. They were probably meant for supporting the upright pieces of timber which secured the feet of the rafters.
The two eastern bays of the main arcade of the choir are more elaborately moulded than the others, and round the eastmost pillar on the south side there is finely cut the following inscription (Fig.1035), which is carved on a band running round the shafts of the pier, as shown in Fig.1036:—
Fig. 1035.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Inscription on East Pillar of Choir.Iohan̄es: fullar: et: uxor: ejus: mariota: foullar.
Fig. 1035.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Inscription on East Pillar of Choir.Iohan̄es: fullar: et: uxor: ejus: mariota: foullar.
Fig. 1035.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Inscription on East Pillar of Choir.
Iohan̄es: fullar: et: uxor: ejus: mariota: foullar.
It will be observed that the husband and wife mentioned in the inscription have the same name, with a slightly different spelling. The two shields
Fig. 1036.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Inscription on East Pillar of Choir.
Fig. 1036.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Inscription on East Pillar of Choir.
Fig. 1036.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Inscription on East Pillar of Choir.
contain the same charges—viz., a key with a mullet—while on one are also carved the last letters of the lady’s first name.
It has been recently pointed out by the Rev. John Ferguson, of Aberdalgie,[72]Perthshire, that John Fullar was one of the bailies of Perth, and that his name occurs as a witness in more than one of the charters belonging to the Charter House, Perth, of the year 1441. His identity is placed beyond doubt by the fact that the charges on the seal attached to the charter are the same as those on the two shields on the pillar, viz., a key in pale and a spur in fess. Mr Ferguson further states:—“We know from theRegistrum de Dunfermlinethat an arrangement was made between the monastery and the magistrates of Perth, by which the latter received
Fig. 1037.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth.Piscina in Choir.
Fig. 1037.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth.Piscina in Choir.
Fig. 1037.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth.
Piscina in Choir.
the tithes of Perth for six years, subject to paying the vicar and a certain sum to the monastery, along with the fees for the right of burial in the choir, for the purpose of building ‘Chorum, et vestibulum ecclesie parochiale dicti burgi de Perth, prout eis placencius et honestius videatur, ac eadem postquam fuerint edificata perpetuis temporibus sustentabunt in omnibus et singulis reparacionibus choro et vestibulo pertinentibus tectura,’ &c. This agreement was made in 1440, the year before John Fullar was made a bailie. It is possible that the tithes and fees did not suffice for the execution of the work laid upon the magistrates, and that John Fullar and his wife volunteered to pay for a part, certainly for the pillar on which their names are inscribed.” From this it is evident, as Mr. Ferguson remarks, that the work of renewing the building was to be begun after 1440. It is somewhat singular that the above two persons, who were evidently great benefactors to this church, should have been so completely forgotten that their good work at St. John’s required to be rediscovered and brought to notice again here.
In the second bay of the choir from the east, on the north side (at B on Plan), there is a round arched doorway, now built up. It led to the sacristy or revestry, as it was sometimes called. After the Reformation the sacristy was used for meetings of the kirk-session, but it was taken down about the beginning of this century, and the meetings were
Fig. 1038.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. North Side of Choir.
Fig. 1038.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. North Side of Choir.
Fig. 1038.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. North Side of Choir.
afterwards held in the building, shown in Fig.1034, on the south side of the nave near the west end, which has also since been in its turn removed.
The existing north and south doorways in the choir are modern, although the south one is in the position of the old doorway, as the print from theChronicleshows (see Fig.1034).
The four piscinas marked A on Plan and shown by Fig.1037all resemble each other.
The choir (Fig.1038) has no triforium, but good plain masonry instead, undivided by wall shafts. The clerestory windows are small and round arched, and are divided into two lights by a central mullion, and have
Fig. 1039.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth.Section of Pier of Choir.
Fig. 1039.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth.Section of Pier of Choir.
Fig. 1039.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth.
Section of Pier of Choir.
plain tracery in the arch-head. The whole details of the choir are very simple and refined for their period, and contrast favourably with most of our late Scottish churches. The section (Fig.1039) shows that the pillars are simply and beautifully moulded. They are surmounted with good caps, and rest on plain bases (Fig.1040). The mouldings of the arches (Fig.1041) are distinctly marked, and rest well on the caps above the shafts or mouldings of the pillars. Some of these details resemble first pointed work, especially the section of the piers which is almost identical with that of the choir piers of St. Andrews Cathedral, from which it is probably copied. The details of the crossing (Fig.1042) are simple and effective, even as seen under the very unfavourable circumstances that a partition wall blocks up the east arch, and that there are galleries beneath the others. There is a west gallery, but it is omitted in the sketch. The massive piers, with their rounded shafts and very broad fillets, have a striking effect. The groining is of the usual kind found in this position in Scotland. It will be observed that in the ridge ribs, holes for bell ropes are most carefully wrought through the ribs, which are strengthened at those parts. The holes are not all equidistant from the centre. On the two great western piers of the crossing there are projecting corbels to carry the beams on which the rood was placed. Strong iron hooks are fixed in the tower arch above, which were doubtless used for the support of the rood, or to steady it.
Of the rood itself, as a matter of course, nothing remains. The south-west pier is built hollow to contain the stair to the tower. Since the Plan (Fig.1032) was made the original doorway to this stair has been discovered, as shown in the view. The door shown on the Plan has been cut out at some later time.
As already stated, the nave is almost of the same length as the choir
Fig. 1040.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Cap and Base of Choir Pier.
Fig. 1040.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Cap and Base of Choir Pier.
Fig. 1040.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Cap and Base of Choir Pier.
(being only about 12 inches less), but each of the arches of the arcade is of rather smaller span than those of the choir, owing to the internal projecting responds at the west end, which may be regarded as fulfilling the purpose of buttresses, and also to the enlargement of the two great piers on the west side of the crossing. Like the choir, the nave is divided into five bays. It has no triforium nor clerestory, but owing to the comparative lowness of the arcade arches (see Fig.1042), while the ridge of theroof throughout is kept at about the same level as in the choir, there is a deep blank wall above the arcade arches. This wall is of rough masonry compared to that in the choir, and the whole of this part of the church is of a much coarser and ruder description, betokening a later age. The capitals of the piers are of the very rudest kind, and are a perfect contrast to the delicate work of the choir. In the meagre descriptions of St. John’s to be found in the books on Perth, this rudeness is pointed to as a sign of great antiquity, but the reverse is unquestionably the case. This nave is undoubtedly “the New Kirk of Perth” referred to in theChronicle, in which “ane Synodall assemblie” was held in April 1606.
It will be seen from the views (Figs.1043and1044) that the top of the wall over the piers of the nave just shows itself and no more on the
Fig.1041.St. John the Baptist’s, Perth.Section of Arch Mouldings in Choir and Nave.
Fig.1041.St. John the Baptist’s, Perth.Section of Arch Mouldings in Choir and Nave.
Fig.1041.
St. John the Baptist’s, Perth.
Section of Arch Mouldings in Choir and Nave.
outside, rising above the lean-to roof of the aisles. It has been contemplated, early in this century, to raise this wall and erect a clerestory, and two of the windows adjoining the tower on the north side (see Fig.1043) have actually been built as part of a pretentious design, with massive buttresses surmounted by high finials, but the work has never been carried further, and indeed could not be carried further to the west, as there is no proper support for such massive building. Below the new clerestory (but not shown on the Plan) a new wall has been brought up to support it.
Fig.1044shows a peculiarity in the west wall, which seems to indicate that there has been some change of design here, the gable being thinned above the western doorway. There is a tradition that the church extended further west at one time, and it seems not improbable that a western tower in the centre of the front may have been contemplated and even begun. This tower, like those at Stirling, Linlithgow, and Dundee, may have been intended to open towards the church, with a wide arch, of which the jambs still remain; but this idea having been abandoned, and any part of the tower which then had been built having been taken down, the present makeshift gable was put up instead to fill up the gap, which, in these circumstances, would be left for the supposed opening into the church.
There is a large porch on the north side of the nave (see Fig.1043), called Halkerston’s Tower, the structure having been at one time much higher than it is now. It was a two storied building, the upper story having evidently been of great height and vaulted, as well as thelower one (see Fig.1033). Two-storied porches are met with at Aberdeen Cathedral and Linlithgow Church, but they are not so rich in architectural
Fig. 1042.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Crossing, looking South.
Fig. 1042.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Crossing, looking South.
Fig. 1042.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Crossing, looking South.
adornment as this one seems to have been. This sketch is copied from a drawing in theMemorabilia, a book seldom to be seen, so that this
Fig. 1043.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. View from North-West showing New Clerestory, &c.
Fig. 1043.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. View from North-West showing New Clerestory, &c.
Fig. 1043.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. View from North-West showing New Clerestory, &c.
view is not well known. The circular part of the stair which formerly led to the upper floor, and now leads to a gallery over the north aisle,
Fig. 1044.—St. John the Baptist’s. Perth. View, showing West End, &c.
Fig. 1044.—St. John the Baptist’s. Perth. View, showing West End, &c.
Fig. 1044.—St. John the Baptist’s. Perth. View, showing West End, &c.
Fig. 1045.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Lower Story of Halkerston’s Tower.
Fig. 1045.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Lower Story of Halkerston’s Tower.
Fig. 1045.—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. Lower Story of Halkerston’s Tower.
was finished with a conical spirelet like the corresponding feature at Linlithgow, and the top of it is seen in the view. The lower part of the tower, which forms the porch, is very effectively vaulted (Fig.1045). The round arched doorway leading from the porch to the church partakes of the rudeness already referred to as characteristic of the whole western part of the church. A curious coincidence between a part of this church and of the Cathedrals of Dunblane and Dunkeld, all in the county of Perth, may be referred to. The north-west window of the nave aisle in the three buildings is treated in very much the same way in each edifice, and these windows have all a very decided resemblance to each other, and are quite unlike the other windows in their respective structures. They are all three light windows, and have square heads at Perth and Dunkeld, while at Dunblane the head is practically square, having a very flat segmental arch. The south aisle wall of the nave (Fig.1046) is a curious medley (which we hope will not be restored). The round arched doorway near the east end is, we presume, original; but it is not easy to tell the new work from the old, as the mouldings of all windows and doors on the outside have received a great amount of patching with cement and paint, owing to the crumbling nature of the stone.
The erection of the west end of the church is clearly referable to about the time (1489) when, according to theLord High Treasurer’s Accounts(already cited) small payments were made “to the kirk werk of Pertht.” It will be remembered that on the same day the payments were made to Walter Merlioune, the mason, and the conjunction of the two payments suggests the idea that Merlioune was the builder of the church. We have already partly traced his career[73]and found that in all probability he built the palace in Stirling Castle. The resemblance between the fretted work over the panels containing statues at Stirling Castle and that over the upper window in Halkerston’s Tower is certainly very remarkable. There is also a resemblance in this feature of Halkerston’s Tower to the large fretted panel over the outside of the east entrance to Linlithgow Palace. At Linlithgow the panel is filled with heraldic emblems, while at Perth it appears to have been intended to fill it with statues, as indications of brackets for supporting them are shown in three rows. There was a John Halkerston, “master of the work” to Mary of Gueldres at the building of Trinity College Church, Edinburgh, between 1461 and 1469. It is quite possible that he may in some way have been connected with the erection of the nave of St. John’s, and so his name became attached to this tower as it was to a steep wynd in Edinburgh. However this may be, all the details of the western part of this church obviously belong to a late period, corresponding with above date.
The central tower (see Fig.1046), which is about 31 feet square, could only have been built after the adjoining part of the nave was reared. Itis a very simple structure, with one window in each face. The parapet and corbelling were renewed about forty years ago, following in the main
Fig. 1046..—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. The Nave, from South-West.
Fig. 1046..—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. The Nave, from South-West.
Fig. 1046..—St. John the Baptist’s, Perth. The Nave, from South-West.
the old details, which were, however, much obliterated. A good deal of the stone facing was renewed at the same time.
The exterior of the church has been considerably altered andimprovedat various times. An open parapet has been carried along the top of the walls of the choir over the clerestory windows, and also along the walls of the aisles and up the sloping gables of the east end. Dormer windows to light the presbyterian galleries break in on this parapet on the aisle walls, and windows for the same purpose, constructed of wood, are seen on the roofs of the nave (see Fig.1046). These dormer windows are all shown on the print in theChronicle of Perth(see Fig.1034), but not the parapets. This print shows a large and very elaborate porch, with a round arched doorway of many orders richly ornamented, as occupying the eastmost bay of the choir. This was originally the gateway or porch of the Carthusian Monastery of Perth, which, after the demolition of the abbey in 1559, was set up in this position, where it remained till about the end of the eighteenth century, “when it was demolished by an edict of the Magistrates.”[74]
The effect of the interior of St. John’s is greatly marred by the cross partitions already referred to. This is much to be regretted, as the interior is exceedingly interesting, and, being in a comparatively fair state of preservation, exhibits more of its original features than the exterior does. When the church was complete, the effect of the gloomy nave, with its lofty unpierced wall above the main arcade, and the noble centre crossing, with the light refined choir beyond, must have been very striking and grand.
A peculiarity of the church and another resemblance to the nave of Dunblane and the north nave aisle of Dunkeld is the absence of vaulting in the aisles which many of our Scottish churches have. The aisles in St. John’s never were vaulted, the only parts so constructed being the crossing and the north porch; the latter, it will be remembered, having also an upper vaulted story. This want of vaulting is a great defect of the church.
The earliest notice in history of Dundee occurs in the first charter of Lindores Abbey, executed before 1198, in which the Church of Dundee is bestowed on the abbey. The church then existing is stated to have been erected by Earl David of Huntingdon, as a thankoffering for his escape from a great tempest. The Church of Dundee thus belonged to the Abbey of Lindores, which stood on the opposite side of the Frith of Tay, and a little further up the river.
In the time of Abbot James of Rossy (1442), an agreement was entered into between the abbot and the Provost and Burgesses of Dundee, by which the latter took on themselves the construction and maintenance
Fig. 1047.—Dundee Church Tower. View from North-West.
Fig. 1047.—Dundee Church Tower. View from North-West.
Fig. 1047.—Dundee Church Tower. View from North-West.
of the choir of the Parish Church of Dundee.[75]The only portion of the ancient parish church which now remains is the western tower (Fig.1047). Although this structure had no immediate connection with the choir, it has evidently, as its style shows, been erected about the middle of the fifteenth century, probably about the time when the choir was built by the Provost and Burgesses in terms of the above agreement.
Three parish churches in connection with the tower were gradually developed from the original chapel. They comprised a large cruciform
Fig. 1048.—Dundee Church Tower. Plan.
Fig. 1048.—Dundee Church Tower. Plan.
Fig. 1048.—Dundee Church Tower. Plan.
structure, the various portions of which were called St. Mary’s, or the East Church; St. Paul’s, or the South Church; and St. Clement’s, or the West Church. The structure was greatly damaged by the English before the Union, and St. Clement’s had suffered so much that it required to be rebuilt in 1789. The three churches were almost totally destroyed by fire in 1841, and in consequence the choir and transepts were thereafter rebuilt, St. Mary’s still occupying the choir, St. Paul’s the transept, and St. Clement’s the nave.
The ancient tower has escaped these various destructions and restorations, and is now the only representative of the church erected in the fifteenth century. It is a large and massive structure, measuring about 40 feet square over the walls (Fig.1048), which are about 8 feet thick. Its total height is about 165 feet. The tower forms a prominent object in all views of the town. It contains in the lower stage the western
Fig. 1049.—Dundee Church Tower. West Doorway.
Fig. 1049.—Dundee Church Tower. West Doorway.
Fig. 1049.—Dundee Church Tower. West Doorway.
doorway to St. Clement’s Church, or the nave (Fig.1049), consisting of two round arched doorways, 8 feet 11 inches high, comprised within a larger circular or elliptical arch, which again is enclosed by a square moulding. The arch mouldings are enriched with foliage. The jambs and central pillar are moulded (Fig.1050) with alternate rounds and hollows. The carved capitals have a continuous abacus, enriched either with rosettesor flowing foliage. In the spandril over the centre shaft there is a circular panel, enclosing the Virgin and Child; and below, on a shield, are the arms of the Diocese of Brechin. “The late Bishop Forbes blazoned themArgent, three piles in point gules; but Dr. Woodward thinks they should beOr, three piles in point gules.”[76]This doorway, as well as much else about the tower, was greatly restored by Sir Gilbert Scott, and probably only certain of the carvings are genuine. One of these, which has not been touched, represents, on the ingoing of the northern capital, a boar eating acorns from a branch. It is quite in the spirit of such scenes as occur on the ancient sculptured stones which are so abundant in the neighbourhood of Dundee. The base is peculiar (see Fig.1050). It projects but little beyond the outer member of the jamb, and the face is upright; but considerable effect is obtained by the curved terminations of the various members. Above the doorway rises a lofty traceried
Fig. 1050.—Dundee Church Tower. Details of West Doorway.
Fig. 1050.—Dundee Church Tower. Details of West Doorway.
Fig. 1050.—Dundee Church Tower. Details of West Doorway.
window (Fig.1051) divided, in the late Scottish mode, by a large central mullion having two arched branches which form two principal openings, each filled with late tracery of the ordinary kind. Above this window the tower is vaulted. In connection with this vaulting and what appears to have been an apartment below it there are some peculiarities. The floor of the tower is about 12 inches lower than the ground at the entrance, and the height from the floor to the groined ceiling is about 47 feet. It will be observed from the Plan and Fig.1051that at each of the four corners there is a large circular shaft, measuring about 13¼ inches diameter. Each individual shaft is fitted into its position in a manner different from the others. These differences are not of a slight or accidental kind, but appear to have been purposely made, there not having been any “restoration” on this part of the building. At the inner or eastern shafts (Fig.1052) the walls are considerably bevelled towards
Fig. 1051.—Dundee Church Tower. Interior, looking West.
Fig. 1051.—Dundee Church Tower. Interior, looking West.
Fig. 1051.—Dundee Church Tower. Interior, looking West.
Fig. 1052.—Dundee Church Tower. Interior, looking East.
Fig. 1052.—Dundee Church Tower. Interior, looking East.
Fig. 1052.—Dundee Church Tower. Interior, looking East.
the opening into the nave, and form parts of the piers of the great archway from the tower into the church. This opening, which is now blocked up, was about 17 feet 10 inches wide, and was arched beneath the vaulting (see Fig.1052). The tall angle shafts have bases and caps, the mouldings of the latter being continued along the bevelled walls.
The vaulting ribs do not spring directly from the four angle shafts, as there appears to have been an intermediate floor of timber (or a gallery along the sides), which rested on the angle shafts and on large corbels visible in the side walls. Over each of the main shafts there rises, for about three feet or so, a group of very delicate shafting, having carved caps, from which spring the ribs of the groining. These delicate shafts are quite a contrast to the massive lower shafts, and, at first sight, suggest the idea of a great change having been effected in the vaulting at some later period. The mouldings above the small upper shafts are carried along the west wall and ingoing of the large window (see Fig.1051). There is a considerable resemblance between the treatment here and that at the large west window in Paisley Abbey. There are stone benches round three sides of the tower.
Over the large west window there is another window (see Fig.1047), with round arch-head, entirely filled with tracery, composed of small cusped circles, and above it a two-light pointed window. The tracery in the first of these windows recalls that in the tower windows of Iona Cathedral.
The tower is divided into two principal stages by an enriched parapet and outside passage, which surround it above the last mentioned window, at a height to the walk of about 96 feet. The parapet is pierced with quatrefoils and ornamented with crocketed pinnacles. The lower stage of the tower has boldly projected buttresses, which are just carried as high as is necessary for resisting the pressure of the vaulting, and each is crowned with a crocketed pinnacle, having a small flying buttress attached. Above these buttresses the tower is carried up with square angles, like most of the Scottish towers of the period. The upper stage has the wall set back, so as to allow of the passage round, and is divided into two stories. The lower story is the belfry and has triple pointed and cusped openings in the various sides, except the north side, where, owing to the space occupied by the staircase, there are only two openings. There is a bead on the angles of this story. The upper story appears to project slightly over the lower story, and contains two pointed and cusped windows over the solids, between the windows beneath them. The north side has only one such window. The tower is crowned with a cornice and an elaborate pierced parapet, having corbelled pinnacles at intervals, the ornamental upper parts of which are unfortunately wanting. The ornamentation of the parapet strongly resembles that of the tower of St. Giles’, Edinburgh. The roof of the tower is of the saddle-back kind,
Fig. 1053.—Dundee Church Tower. View from North-East.
Fig. 1053.—Dundee Church Tower. View from North-East.
Fig. 1053.—Dundee Church Tower. View from North-East.
having gables towards the east and west, a form of roof with which ancient Scottish towers were often crowned.
Although the tower is thus finished, a careful examination shows that it was undoubtedly meant to have an open crown termination, but for what reason the idea was abandoned we cannot tell. The preparations exist for the springing of the angle arches. When the tower lately underwent renovation, it was proposed to remove the present cape house and put up a crown; and a design for this was prepared, and is engraved in Lamb’sBook of Old Dundee. Very fortunately the design was not carried out.
Attached to the north-east angle is a boldly projected stair turret, which ascends from the foundation to the summit. Figs. 1047 and 1053 illustrate this feature. The pierced parapet at the top returns round it, and the turret is finished with a pointed roof. A great many loopholes in the turret show the number of the winding spirals of the staircase. In the view (Fig.1053) there is seen on the east side of the tower a plain, square-headed window, having four brackets arranged around it. We presume these were for supporting figures. Beneath them, and near the ridge of the church roof, there is a panel with a coat of arms, which is too far off to be made out.
This tower is undoubtedly the boldest and most striking edifice of its kind and date in Scotland.
This abbey, like so many others, stands in a fertile holm or flat ground in the quiet valley of the Water of Luce, about one mile and a half from the town of Glenluce. Although sometimes calledVallis Lucis, the name is probably the same as Luss in Dumbartonshire, meaning a place of herbs. The abbey was founded in 1190 by Roland, Lord of Galloway, and colonised by Cistercians from Melrose.
The buildings were at one time “extensive and magnificent,” but the ruins are now very scanty. Of the church (Fig.1054) there remain only parts of the south wall of the choir and the south wall of the south transept. The cloister enclosure is still marked by a good wall, but of the conventual buildings which formerly surrounded it, only the chapter house and some vaulted cellars on the east side survive.
The existing ruins cover about an acre of ground, but formerly the enclosure of the garden and orchard extended to twelve Scotch acres.
Little is known of the annals of the monastery. Its earliest charter is by RobertI., granting the property of the abbey to be held as a free barony, and this was confirmed by DavidII.At the Reformation the lands were leased at a low rate to the Earl of Cassilis, who was created
Fig. 1054.—Glenluce Abbey. Plan.
Fig. 1054.—Glenluce Abbey. Plan.
Fig. 1054.—Glenluce Abbey. Plan.
Fig. 1055.—Glenluce Abbey. Chapter House.
Fig. 1055.—Glenluce Abbey. Chapter House.
Fig. 1055.—Glenluce Abbey. Chapter House.
Fig. 1056.—Glenluce Abbey. View from South-East.
Fig. 1056.—Glenluce Abbey. View from South-East.
Fig. 1056.—Glenluce Abbey. View from South-East.
bailie of the abbey. In 1587 the estates were annexed to the Crown. James VI. erected them into a temporal barony in favour of Laurence Gordon, commendator at the time. The lordship of Glenluce afterwards passed to the Stair family, and the lands to the Hays of Park.[77]
Fig. 1057.—Glenluce Abbey. Doorway to Chapter House: Exterior.
Fig. 1057.—Glenluce Abbey. Doorway to Chapter House: Exterior.
Fig. 1057.—Glenluce Abbey. Doorway to Chapter House: Exterior.
In this remote region the buildings remained long undisturbed, and as late as 1646 the abbey is referred to in the Records of the Presbytery of Stranraer as having received little injury.[78]“The steeple,” says Symson,who wrote in 1684, “and part of the walls of the church, together with the chapter house, the walls of the cloyster, the gatehouse with the walls of the large precincts, are for the most part yet standing.”
So far as can now be ascertained from the ruins, the church (see Fig.1054) seems to have comprised a nave with aisles about 90 feet in length,
Fig. 1058.—Glenluce Abbey. Doorway to Chapter House: Interior.
Fig. 1058.—Glenluce Abbey. Doorway to Chapter House: Interior.
Fig. 1058.—Glenluce Abbey. Doorway to Chapter House: Interior.
now entirely destroyed; a transept, of which part of the southern arm with its eastern aisle or chapels remains; and an aisleless choir, of which only a fragment of the south wall survives. From Symson’s statement, above quoted, there was also a steeple, but whether over the crossing or not does not now appear. To the south of the nave lay the cloisters, the wallsof which (partly old and partly reconstructed) now subsist, and enclose a space measuring 89 feet from north to south by 86 feet from east to west. The north, west, and south sides are enclosed with a stone wall, and on the east side there is a row of structures comprising the chapter house in the centre, a ruined heap on the north side of the chapter house, and two cellars with plain barrel vaults on the south side.
The chapter house (Fig.1055) is the only portion of the abbey in good preservation. It consists of an apartment about 24 feet square, with a central pillar, from which spring the ribs of the groined vaulting. At the side walls the ribs rest on corbels. The apartment is lighted with two traceried windows (Fig.1056), the tracery of which has been renewed within recent years, after the pattern of the old tracery. The door enters from the cloister on the west. It is of semicircular form (Fig.1057), and exhibits in its capitals some peculiar and striking sculpture. The leaves of the foliage are large and the design is remarkable, some of the leaves, which are probably intended to represent sun flowers, having very much the appearance of starfish. The interior of the chapter house doorway (Fig.1058) has also some peculiar sculpture, and the manner in which the ribs of the vaults descend on the round arch-head is well managed.
Fig. 1059.—Glenluce Abbey.Corbel in Chapter House.
Fig. 1059.—Glenluce Abbey.Corbel in Chapter House.
Fig. 1059.—Glenluce Abbey.
Corbel in Chapter House.
The stone benches which surrounded the chapter house, including the abbot’s chair between the two windows (see Fig.1055), are much destroyed, but the central pillar and the vaulting are well preserved. The capital of the pillar is carved with foliage of a late character, and the corbels supporting the ribs of the vaults at the wall show similar work. One of these corbels is quaintly carved, in imitation of a figure clothed in the costume of the fifteenth or sixteenth centuries (Fig.1059), thus giving an indication of the date of the building. From this and the work on the doorway above referred to, as well as the character of the work generally, we have no hesitation in fixing the date of this part of the abbey about the end of the fifteenth century. The bosses of the vaults are carved with various devices, one of them bearing a lion rampant, which is probably meant to represent the arms of the founder, the Lord of Galloway.
The design of the tracery in the windows (see Fig.1056) is good for the period. It is remarkably like that of the chapter house at Crosraguel Abbey, which was also fifteenth century work.
This sketch likewise shows the small portions of the church which still remain. The lofty south gable of the transept is visible with the sloping water table of the roof of the building, which stood on the south of it.This building has apparently been at least two stories in height. It no doubt extended over the chapter house wing, and contained the dormitory, &c. (as at Crosraguel). A small lancet window on each side of the water table near its apex and another small window over it seem to indicate that there was an apartment in the roof of the transept. The wall seen in the distance is part of the south wall of the choir. It contains the water table of the roof of the east aisle of the transept, and is broken off at the jamb of a high window, which lighted the choir or presbytery, thus showing that the latter must have extended further eastward than the existing ruin.
This church, from the circumstance of its castle-like appearance and its possessing a complete dwelling-house over the transepts, was included inThe Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland, Vol.II.p. 131, in which a full description of it is given, illustrated with numerous drawings. The building is here introduced with the view of more fully explaining some features formerly omitted, and also to form a complete record of such an important example.
The new features introduced in the Plan (Fig.1060) are the choir, the nave, and an outbuilding to the north. The width and height of the choir and the arch leading into it are clearly seen against the central tower (Fig.1061), while the lower part of the east wall and part of the north wall of the choir are still standing, as shown in the Plan, although reduced to only a few feet in height.
The present parish church (Fig.1062) occupies the site of the nave, the ancient splayed base being utilised in the north wall, where it is visible along the whole length. It is also probable that the west end of the present church corresponds with the position of the old west end. In that case the dimensions were as follow, viz.:—The choir was about 63 feet 6 inches long by 25 feet 6 inches wide, and the nave was about 65 feet 6 inches long by 25 feet wide. The total length of the church was 158 feet 3 inches outside measure. The total length of the transept was about 68 feet. There was apparently an aisle along the south side of the nave, the beginning of the wall of which is visible on the Plan. A row of buildings existed as a continuation northwards of the north transept, and at a distance of about 31 yards northwards a portion of these buildings still remains, measuring about 40 feet in length. The first erection to the north of the transept had a window with stone seats looking into the church, and it had also a communication with the house over the church. There may thus have been a row of dormitories on the upper floor extending northwards.