THE COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF ARBUTHNOTT,Kincardineshire.

Fig. 1155.—Seton Collegiate Church. Font at Crossing.

evidently later than that of the choir, but the details of the buttresses have been copied in the later part of the structure from those of the earlier part.

This church, which is dedicated to St. Ternan, is situated about three or four miles from Bervie, and not far from the old mansion of Arbuthnott. It is an exceedingly interesting and picturesque structure, and contains work of three distinct periods, representing different phases of Scottish ecclesiastical architecture. There is first the chancel (Fig.1156), dedicated by Bishop Bernham in 1242, and possibly the nave may also be in part of the same period. Then there is the very striking south wing or aisle, which is known, from the Arbuthnott Missal, to have been built by Sir Robert Arbuthnott in the end of the fifteenth century. This aisle (Fig.1157), which is two stories in height, is a remarkable example of the style with which we are familiar in the collegiate and other churches of the period. In the third place, the quaint west end (Fig.1158) represents an example of the application to an ecclesiastical structure of features of the domestic architecture of the country, of which there are so many examplesthroughout Scotland. In February 1889 “the nave, then the only part in use, was burned, and the fire destroyed a partition which cut off the chancel.” None of the structural features of the church suffered any damage, and the chancel and the south aisle, having little or nothing in their construction of a combustible nature, escaped altogether. The church has been well restored by Mr. A. M. Mackenzie, architect, Aberdeen,[106]a new roof having been placed on the nave and chancel, and suitable new fittings and furniture introduced. The three windows in the east wall of the chancel have been renewed, exactly after the remains of the original ones.

Fig. 1156.—The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. Plan.

The nave, which measures internally about 60 feet 6 inches long by 18 feet wide, has a north and south round-arched doorway, with a bead moulding on the angles. These doorways are, perhaps, of the sixteenth century. The three windows on the south side have centre mullions, and are finished with straight lintels (see Fig.1157); and, although renewed, they represent the original arrangement. Besides these there are two small windows in the west gable (see Fig.1158). A stoup in the wall inside adjoins the south door.

The chancel arch is about 12 feet wide by 13 feet high. It has a double splay on each side, and is acutely pointed. The chancel is about 26 feet 5 inches long by 15 feet 6 inches wide. The total internallength of the church is 90 feet. There is a small north doorway in the chancel, which was evidently not meant to lead to the outside, but to a

Fig. 1157.—The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. South Aisle.

sacristy or some such apartment; and projecting tusk stones in the corner outside the door show that such a building was contemplated. The chancel (Fig.1159) is lighted by small widely splayed windows on eachside, and three lintelled windows in the east end (Fig.1160). Mr. Mackenzie shows reasons for believing that this gable has been reconstructed, and that it originally had only two windows in the lower part, with perhaps some kind of central window at a higher level, something like what is found at Mortlach. The pointed piscina (Fig.1161) beneath the eastmost south window (see Fig.1160) has, as usual, been mutilated.

Fig. 1158.—The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. View from South-West.

To connect the chancel with the Arbuthnott Aisle a round archway (see Fig.1160), 7 feet 8 inches wide, has been cut through the chancel wall. The details of this arch are shown in Fig.1162. This chapel or aisle, which has an apsidal south end, measures about 20 feet 3 inches long by 12 feet 11 inches wide, and has a vaulted stone roof (Fig.1163) about 18 feet high, with a semi-octagonal dome over the apse. Thisview gives an idea of the appearance of the interior of the chapel. In front of the apse windows stands a sarcophagus 6 feet 2 inches long by 2 feet 2 inches wide, having a rude recumbent figure on the top. It contains the following arms on the front, beginning at the head, viz., Douglas, Arbuthnott, Arbuthnott, Stewart; and there appear to be indications that there have been other shields, now cut away. There is a round arched entrance door to the aisle on the west side (see Fig.1157), with a stoup beneath the adjoining window on the inside, and in the east wall are the remains of a credence. A turret staircase

Fig. 1159.—The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. View from North-East.

(see Fig.1157) gives access from the aisle to a priest’s chamber on the upper floor, which Bishop Forbes, believing it to have been the place where the Missal referred to below was written, describes at some length.[107]It had a strong door, which folded back into a recess. The room is of the same size and shape as the aisle below, and is lighted with three windows with square heads, two in the apse, and one (the largest) looking towards the west (see Fig.1157). The latter is strongly guarded with an iron grating of the usual construction. The windows are fitted with seats like those commonly found in the castles. “There is a stoup for holy water at the

Fig. 1160.—The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. Interior of Chancel.

entrance, and a small ambry, ornamented with a single trefoil, probably for the reservation of the holy Eucharist.”[108]

Fig. 1161.The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott.Piscina beneath Eastmost South Window.

Fig. 1161.

The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott.

Piscina beneath Eastmost South Window.

The external appearance of this chapel is illustrated in Fig.1157, where the fine angle buttresses of the apse, with their considerable projection and height (owing to the upper story) and their picturesque pinnacles, and the stair turret are fully shown. The buttresses have each an ornamental corbel and canopy for a statue placed on their face, but without any niche. Fig.1164shows one of them with its elaborate carved work. The very quaint aspect of the whole building looking from the west is seen in the drawing (see Fig.1158). The height of the two turrets, as shown on Mr. Mackenzie’s geometrical drawings, is the same, viz., 41 feet 6 inches.

Fig. 1162.The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. Details of Arch to South Aisle.

Fig. 1162.

The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. Details of Arch to South Aisle.

The Arbuthnott Missal, already referred to, with its two companion volumes the Psalter and Office of the Blessed Virgin, have been well described by Mr. William MacGillivray. They were specially written for the use of this church by the vicar, James Sybbald. The Missal was finished in the year 1491, and was presented by the writer and the founder

Fig. 1163.—The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. Interior of Chancel.

of the aisle “to the high altar of the pious Bishop St. Ternan.” The Psalter was finished in 1482, and from internal evidence the last of the three volumes was probably written a short time before the Psalter.

Fig. 1164.—The Collegiate Church of Arbuthnott. Corbel and Canopy on Buttress.

From the Register of the Great Seal of date 30th May 1505, it appears that the chapel was then endowed by Robert Arbuthnott, “James Sybbald, Vicar of Arbuthnott,” being one of the witnesses. Sir Robert died in 1506, and the vicar in the year following.

The building adjoining the church, seen in Fig.1158, is the old manse.

This edifice stands on the south side of the valley where the river Tyne takes its rise, about four miles from Tynehead Railway Station. It is seen from the railway, together with Crichton Castle, from which it is only about a quarter of a mile distant.

The building is still in use as the parish church. It consists (Fig.1165) of a chancel, measuring internally about 44 feet from east to west by about 24 feet 10 inches in width, a central tower about 24 feet square,

Fig. 1165.—The Collegiate Church of Crichton. Plan.

and north and south transepts, the total length of which, from north to south, is about 70 feet. The north wall of the nave is erected for a length of about 16 feet, but of the south wall only a few feet have been built.

To adapt the edifice to the Presbyterian system of worship, probably the very worst plan which could have been devised has been adopted, and is shown on the Plan by clear lines. The original fabric may be said to remain, but it is greatly deformed. As the tower opened into the unbuilt nave it had necessarily to be walled up, and has an entrance doorway left in the centre. This doorway, which is round arched, seems to be old,

Fig. 1166.—The Collegiate Church of Crichton. View from South-East.

and was probably brought from a building which appears to have formerly stood on the north side of the church. Across the interior of the tower a stone wall has been built to enclose the modern church. The portion of the tower outside this wall thus forms a vestibule, from which a stair

Fig. 1167.—The Collegiate Church of Crichton. Window on North Side.

leads to a west gallery fitted up in the enclosed portion of the tower. Another door has been slapped through the east wall to the outside, and an outer stair at the east end leads to an inserted gallery running across that end. One window and a sacristy or similar building on the northside have been done away with, to allow the erection of a passage for reaching another gallery, which runs along the north side of the chancel. The north transept has, perhaps, been worst used of all. A wall has been built between the moulded responds to a height of about 5 feet, and the whole area of the transept at this level is roofed over to form a burial vault. The south transept is not utilised in any way except as a sort of lumber place.

Instead of this unsuitable and costly arrangement, the area of the church as it stood would suffice to give more accommodation than is thus obtained, and that without sacrificing the dignity of the building, as has been done by the arrangements just described.

It would appear from a letter by the Rev. John Gourlay, the parish minister, to General Hutton, dated Crichton, 4th April 1789, that the

Fig. 1168.—The Collegiate Church of Crichton. Sedilia.

tower, with probably the transepts, then sufficed for the congregation. He says, “There is a high building upon the one end where the bell hangs, and where divine service was lately performed, but since considerable reparations were given, it is now again altered to what is called the quire.”

The original entrance to the church was on the south side of the chancel (see Fig.1165). It has been partly destroyed and is now built up, but portions of its moulded jambs can still be seen. The mouldings are of a common kind, consisting of two beads separated by a hollow. The doorway has been 3 feet 10 inches wide. Above the doorway a window has been roughly hacked through the wall, and on the inside of the sill there are rudely carved the initials P. L., with the date 1729. These are probably the initials of the worthy who contrived certain of the alterationsabove described. At the same time two small windows have been knocked through the side walls beneath the original windows on the north and south sides nearest the east end. One of these is shown in the view Fig.1166, and the other on the north side is shown on the Plan. These windows have been referred to by Mr. Muir and in the Architectural Publication Societies Dictionary as examples of lychnoscope or offertory windows; but undoubtedly they were inserted to give light beneath the east gallery, and are of no older date than last century. Only one of the original windows, that on the north side, retains the original tracery (Fig.1167). Indications of the tracery of the transept windows also still remain. The choir has been divided into three bays by buttresses, which have the numerous set-offs of the period, and are finished with the ordinary late pinnacles. The high blank wall over the windows, which generally

Fig. 1169.The Collegiate Church of Crichton.Arms in West Wall.

Fig. 1169.

The Collegiate Church of Crichton.

Arms in West Wall.

accompanies the pointed barrel vaults, has been in this case lightened by the introduction of a false parapet (see Fig.1166), with enrichments of square shaped flowers, both in the main cornice and in the upper cornice, which represents the cope of the parapet. But here there is no parapet wall, the eaves of the roof being placed where the parapet cope would be in ordinary circumstances. This is a plan often adopted in domestic buildings, from which the idea was, no doubt, borrowed in this instance. The transepts are without buttresses and have a bare appearance. Adjoining the south entrance doorway there are what appear to be the remains of a sedilia (Fig.1168). The lower portion is entirely concealed, and the eastern shaft and recess are almost blocked. In the north wall opposite the original entrance there can be seen on the inside the indications of a round arched doorway, now built up, which probably led to the sacristy or a chapel, now destroyed, as already mentioned. Five feet east from this blocked doorway there are slight remains of a sixteenth or seventeenth century monument (see Plan), now cut away to permit of the erection of the gallery over, and it seems probable that from this monument was taken the coat of arms (Fig.1169) now built into the wall which closes up the west archway of the tower. The shield bears the Nicolson arms, and are probably those of Agnes Nicolson, third wife of Patrick, first Lord Elibank, who possessed the ecclesiastical lands of the Collegiate Church of Crichton about the beginning of the seventeenth century. Mr. Billings shows another coat of arms on the outside of the turret stair,but this part of the building is now a dense mass of ivy. The turret stair is in the north wall of the nave, and is placed at some distance from the tower. Fig.1170shows the piscina in the south transept. Across this

Fig. 1170.The Collegiate Church of Crichton.Piscina.

Fig. 1170.

The Collegiate Church of Crichton.

Piscina.

transept, where shown on the Plan, there is a wooden screen (Fig.1171) of late erection, but not without some character, near its centre, and beneath the south arch of the tower there stands up, a few inches from the pavement, a broken worn stone about 12 inches square, the purpose of which is not obvious.

The church throughout is vaulted with a pointed barrel vault, but no provision has been made for the vaulting of the nave. Crichton Church was converted, in 1449, by Sir William Crichton, well known as Chancellor Crichton, into a collegiate establishment for a provost, nine prebendaries, and two singing boys, and was suitably endowed. The existing structure was probably erected at that time. Sir William also built an extensive addition to the Castle of Crichton, and doubtless the same builders were employed on church and castle, as many of the details closely resemble each other. From Mr. Gourlay’s letter, already referred to, it appears that there was a provost’s house about a mile distant. He mentions that it was then used as a farmhouse and called Rosehall, and that there was a place of worship beside it and a churchyard, but with the exception of the latter nothing now remains.

The tower is supported by pointed arches springing from responds in the four sides. The responds are of simple section, and the caps contain some good late foliaged carving (see Fig.1171).

The walls are carried up with one low story above the set-off

Fig. 1171.—The Collegiate Church of Crichton. Arch and Screen in South Transept.

immediately over the sloping water table of the roofs. This story contains, in each face, a two-light window with square lintel and central mullion. The story is surmounted by a plain parapet, supported by a corbel course, and the tower is finished with a gabled roof, having a simple belfry on the apex of the east gable.

The village of Corstorphine is situated about three miles west of Edinburgh.

The church is intimately associated with the Forrester family. It was erected and endowed by them, and their tombs and monuments, emblazoned

Fig. 1172.—The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. Plan.

with heraldic emblems, are conspicuous on its walls. The manor was acquired by Adam Forrester, a burgess and provost of Edinburgh, in the year 1376, and the title of Lord Forrester of Corstorphine continued in the family till the year 1763.

There was a chapel at Corstorphine as early as the year 1128, which was granted to the new Abbey of Holyrood. This structure afterwards became the parish church, and continued to be so after the erection of the collegiate church, which still exists. Of this original chapel no trace now remains. It stood on the north side of the present building, on part of the ground now occupied by the existing north transept. This transept, which was built in the present century, is not the immediate successor of the old parish church, but takes the place of an aisle which was built in 1646, the erection of which caused the removal of what remained of the old parish church.

The existing church (Fig.1172) consists of a chancel, a nave with north and south transepts situated at its west end, a western tower and spire, and a sacristy on the north side of the chancel. The whole building is small in size and of low proportions, the height of the tower and spire

Fig. 1173.The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine.Stone Built into Wall of Field.

Fig. 1173.

The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine.

Stone Built into Wall of Field.

being only 50 feet, but although somewhat debased in style, it is very quaint and picturesque.

The structure suffered great alteration and damage from a restoration which took place about the beginning of this century. At that time the north transept, together with the seventeenth century aisle, above mentioned, and a part of the nave were taken down.[109]A new north transept was built, and a new additional nave was erected on the north side of the old nave. A doorway was knocked through the east wall of the chancel, which necessitated the shortening of the large east window above it by raising the sill. At the same time, the chancel was converted into a lumber chamber and porch, by the process of building up the chancel arch. As regards the sacristy, its floor has been dug out to a depth of about 7 feet, and it is now used as a heating chamber and coal cellar.

During this restoration a quantity of carved and moulded stones was removed from the church to Juniper Green, in the vicinity, where probably about fifty fragments, several containing the Forrester arms, were built into a wall on the road leading from the above village to Baberton House, but the wall has since been removed. Fig.1173is a sketch of one of these stones, bearing three hunting horns impaling a bend engrailed. At Hermiston House, also, several carved blocks

Fig. 1174.—The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. View from South-East.

removed from Corstorphine Church have been preserved, some of which contain the Forrester arms.

The plan of the building (omitting the alterations above described) is remarkable. It seems to consist of two portions—(1) the transepts and division to the east of them, forming one church, and (2) the choir further

Fig. 1175.—The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. Sedilia in the Chancel.

to the east, which seems to have formed an independent chapel. This view is supported by the history of the structure.

In the east wall of the chancel a stone is fixed, with an inscription in memory of the first provost of the college, the stone being “apparently transferred,” says Mr. Laing, “from the place where the provost was buried.” The inscription is in the following terms, viz.:—

Istud · collegiū · incepit · āno · dn̄i · Mº,ccccºxxix · et · eodē · āno: maḡr · nicholayq· bānachtȳ · prpositq· hic · subtq· iacēs · qui · obiit · āno: dn̄i · Mºcccc{o}lxx ... cuiq· āniursare · simul · pr̄ isq · mr̄ is: celebrabitur · xiiiiº ·die · mēsis · iunii · p · quo · ānuus · redditus · x: s · in · villa · de · kyrk · cramuound · orate · pro · āibq· eorl.[This collegiate church was begun in the year of our Lord 1429, and in the

Fig. 1176.—The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. Piscina in Chancel.

same year Mr. Nicol Bannatyne was provost here, who, lying beneath, died in the year 1470. A commemoration of him and his successors in office will be celebrated on the 14th of June annually, for which an annual rent of £10 is set apart, out of the lands of Kirk Cramond—Pray for their souls.]

This inscription clearly fixes the date of the commencement of the collegiate church, but although it has been transferred to the chancel,there is nothing to show that the collegiate church it refers to is the chancel. It is quite as likely to have reference to the church to the west of the chancel, from which it was probably removed to its present position. Both from the arrangement of the Plan and the aspect of the eastern part of the building generally, it presents a distinct individuality. It is both

Fig. 1177.—The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. Tomb of Sir John Forrester and his Wife.

higher and wider than the church to the west, and suggests the idea of having been built at a different time. Now it is matter of history that Adam Forrester, already mentioned, who died in 1405, built a chapel dedicated to St. John the Baptist adjoining the parish church, and it is not unlikely that this chancel was that chapel.

In 1425-6 a charter was granted by King James I. for the endowment of three chaplainries in the chapel contiguous to the Parish Church of Corstorphine,[110]and securing to it, amongst other things, the annual rents in Edinburgh bestowed by the late Sir Adam Forrester. That charter clearly shows that this chapel, wherever situated, was in existence before

Fig. 1178.—The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine.Tomb of Sir John Forrester (younger) and his Wife.

Fig. 1178.—The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine.

Tomb of Sir John Forrester (younger) and his Wife.

the year mentioned in Provost Bannatyne’s inscription. Further, in the Chamberlain Rolls of 1434,[111]reference is made to the three chaplains of the Chapel of St. John the Baptist—“contiguous to the Parish Church of Corstorphine,” showing the independent existence of that chapel after thedate in the Bannatyne inscription. It seems, therefore, most probable that this was the chapel erected by Sir Adam Forrester.

Sir Adam was succeeded by his son Sir John Forrester, who filled the office of Great Chamberlain of Scotland, and on the return of JamesI.from England was appointed Master of the Household in 1424. The

Fig. 1179.—The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. Tomb in South Transept.

collegiate church was founded and endowed by Sir John. Although the inscription to Bannatyne, the first provost, says that it was begun in 1429, the foundation was only completed by a Papal Bull in 1444, at which date Sir John was probably living. The foundation consisted of a provost, four prebendaries, and two singing boys.

From the above records, and also from the style of the architecture, there can scarcely be a doubt but that the church to the west was the collegiate church erected after 1444, and in designing it, the plan was so arranged as to incorporate the older Chapel of St. John the Baptist as the chancel of the new church. It is remarkable that, although the chancel

Fig. 1180.—The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. Tomb in South Transept.

contains monuments to his successors, there is none to Sir Adam, the supposed founder of it. It may, however, be mentioned that Mr. Laing believes that an inscription on a stone, which has been built out of its proper place, in the small porch to the west of the tower, has been taken from a monument to Sir Adam.

Whether the above view of the history of the Church of Corstorphine is correct or not, the chancel or the Chapel of St. John the Baptist is the

Fig. 1181.—The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. Window and Arms in South Transept.

most interesting part of the building. It measures internally 25 feet 6 inches in length by 21 feet in width, and is covered with a pointed barrel vault, having a roof of overlapping stone flags. It contains an

Fig. 1182.—The Collegiate Church of Corstorphine. View from South-West.

east window of three lights (Fig.1174), having perpendicular tracery, the lower part of which has been altered, as above pointed out.

There are two small windows in the south side of the chancel, and between them, in the interior, is a fine sedilia, somewhat mutilated (Fig.1175). Beside it is a piscina (Fig.1176), with the basin, asusually happens, cut away. In the niche of the piscina there is a stone shelf used as a credence table, and over the niche a projecting round canopy. A very similar canopy exists over the upper small niche on the exterior of the east gable.

In the north wall of the chancel are two recessed tombs (Figs.1177and1178). These monuments, judging from the disturbed appearance of the surrounding masonry and from the different character of the two designs, were apparently not original parts of the chapel, but were subsequently inserted as the occasion arose. The arch stones of the westmost tomb (see Fig.1177), that of Sir John Forrester (the eldest son of Sir Adam) and his wife, are cut away or concealed by the west wall of the chapel, an arrangement not likely to have been adopted had the tomb been erected when the chapel was built. This monument is usually called the Founder’s Tomb, from the circumstance that Sir John founded the collegiate church. He was twice married: first, to Jean Sinclair, daughter of Henry, first Earl of Orkney; and, second, to Dame Marion Stewart, Lady Dalswinton, widow of Sir John Stewart.[112]His effigy rests on the tomb, along with that of one of his wives. Sir John died after the year 1444.

The eastmost tomb (see Fig.1178) is that of the son of the foregoing, also Sir John, who died before 1454. It contains his effigy and that of his wife. It does not appear to be known to what family the lady belonged; but from the heraldic blazons (to be afterwards described) she seems to have been a member of the Wigmer family.

There is another tomb situated in the south transept (Figs.1179and1180). It is believed to be that of Sir Alexander Forrester, son of the last mentioned Sir John. The date of his death is not recorded, but he is known to have been alive in 1467. It contains his effigy only. There has been a finial on the tomb, which is now gone.

The amount of heraldic carving on the above tombs, on the gable of the south transept (Fig.1181), and on the western porch (Fig.1182) is considerable and is well preserved.[113]

The arms represented on the various shields throughout the whole series comprise, for the different members of the Forrester family above mentioned,

Forrester of Corstorphine, viz.:—Argent, three hunting horns stringed sable.These occur alone and conjoined with the arms of their wives, viz.:—I. Sinclair, Earl of Orkney.1st and 4th. Azure, a lymphad within a double tressure, flory counter flory, or (for Orkney).2nd and 3rd. Argent, a cross engrailed (for Sinclair).II. Stewart of Dalswinton.Or, a fesse chequé azure and argent, surmounted of a bend engrailed gules.III. Wigmer.Argent, on a bend sable a ribbon dancettée of the field.IV. Forrester (differenced with Sinclair—probably an unauthorised coat).Argent, a cross engrailed and couped between three hunting horns sable.The above arms are distributed as follow on the three tombs—First Tomb, Sir John Forrester(see Fig.1177).1st shield. Forrester.2nd shield. Forrester impaling Sinclair, Earl of Orkney. The dexter half only—viz., 1st and 3rd quarters of the complete arms—being given.3rd shield. Forrester.4th shield. Forrester impaling Stewart of Dalswinton.5th shield. Forrester.Second Tomb, Sir John Forrester, son of above—Eastmost (see Fig.1178).1st shield. Forrester.2nd shield. Forrester impaling Wigmer.3rd shield. Forrester.Third Tomb, Sir Alexander Forrester(see Figs.1179and1180)).1st shield. Sinclair of Orkney (1st and 3rd quarters only) impaling Forrester (the same arms as first tomb, 2nd shield, but reversed, in error).2nd shield. Forrester.3rd shield. Forrester differenced with Sinclair.The shields on the gable of the south transept (see Figs.1174and1181)) are as follow—1st. Central shield, Forrester.2nd and 3rd. (Two shields, one on each side of the large window.) Forrester impaling Wigmer.These shields are all reversed, so that the shield is couché the wrong way and the crest looks the wrong way. The impaled shields have Forrester on the sinister instead of the dexter, and the Wigmer arms make the bend and ribbon sinister instead of dexter.

Forrester of Corstorphine, viz.:—

Argent, three hunting horns stringed sable.

These occur alone and conjoined with the arms of their wives, viz.:—

I. Sinclair, Earl of Orkney.

1st and 4th. Azure, a lymphad within a double tressure, flory counter flory, or (for Orkney).

2nd and 3rd. Argent, a cross engrailed (for Sinclair).

II. Stewart of Dalswinton.

Or, a fesse chequé azure and argent, surmounted of a bend engrailed gules.

III. Wigmer.

Argent, on a bend sable a ribbon dancettée of the field.

IV. Forrester (differenced with Sinclair—probably an unauthorised coat).

Argent, a cross engrailed and couped between three hunting horns sable.

The above arms are distributed as follow on the three tombs—

First Tomb, Sir John Forrester(see Fig.1177).

1st shield. Forrester.

2nd shield. Forrester impaling Sinclair, Earl of Orkney. The dexter half only—viz., 1st and 3rd quarters of the complete arms—being given.

3rd shield. Forrester.

4th shield. Forrester impaling Stewart of Dalswinton.

5th shield. Forrester.

Second Tomb, Sir John Forrester, son of above—Eastmost (see Fig.1178).

1st shield. Forrester.

2nd shield. Forrester impaling Wigmer.

3rd shield. Forrester.

Third Tomb, Sir Alexander Forrester(see Figs.1179and1180)).

1st shield. Sinclair of Orkney (1st and 3rd quarters only) impaling Forrester (the same arms as first tomb, 2nd shield, but reversed, in error).

2nd shield. Forrester.

3rd shield. Forrester differenced with Sinclair.

The shields on the gable of the south transept (see Figs.1174and1181)) are as follow—

1st. Central shield, Forrester.

2nd and 3rd. (Two shields, one on each side of the large window.) Forrester impaling Wigmer.

These shields are all reversed, so that the shield is couché the wrong way and the crest looks the wrong way. The impaled shields have Forrester on the sinister instead of the dexter, and the Wigmer arms make the bend and ribbon sinister instead of dexter.

South Transept.

The shields, both on the gable outside and on the tomb inside, seem to have been carelessly executed from an impression of the arms, thusplacing everything in the reverse way; so that what in the original is on the dexter side of the shield is here on the sinister, a bend is converted into a bend sinister, and so throughout.

The two shields on the porch are—1st, Forrester; 2nd, Forrester impaling Wigmer.

The sacristy, on the north side of the chancel, enters by a plain lintelled door between the two tombs (see Fig.1172). It has a rough pointed barrel vault, and looks, from there being windows at two levels, as if it had contained two stories. The sill of the east window projects about 11 inches; and Mr. Muir considers it, without doubt, to have been an altar.[114]Adjoining this window is a piscina, with the orifice of its drain wrought on the base mouldings outside.

As regards the architecture of the church, it accords well with the other collegiate structures of the latter half of the fifteenth century. The perpendicular tracery in the east window of the chancel and the south window of the transept (see Figs.1173and1181)) is remarkable, such tracery being very uncommon in Scotland. These two large windows are recessed in the wall, the outer jambs having two or three broad splays. The side windows have the tracery flush with the outer face of the wall.

The buttresses have the usual numerous set-offs. They have now finials, consisting of cubic stones carved as sundials; but, as Mr. T. S. Muir states, these are modern additions, the buttresses having doubtless been originally pinnacled above the eaves.

The tower to the west of the transept (Fig.1182) is one of the most characteristic features of the structure. It measures externally about 18 feet 6 inches from north to south by 17 feet 3 inches from east to west. The tower has a door to the church, and also a west doorway. It thus formed an entrance porch to the building; but another porch has been added to the west, which is vaulted and covered with a stone roof.

The tower is built with ashlar, and rises, without buttresses, to the eaves. A two-light window is introduced on each face under the cornice. Above the tower there is a stone spire of the stunted description usual at the period. Four pinnacles give some relief to the angles at the base of the spire. The latter is divided by battlemented string courses into three stories, and has lucarnes in the middle story.

After the Reformation the collegiate church became the church of the parish in 1593, and has so continued ever since.

The quaint old seaport of Crail lies near the eastern point of the north side of the Frith of Forth. It is one of the earliest places in Scotland which are known to have carried on commerce with theContinent, having had intercourse with the Netherlands in the ninth century, where its salt fish were sold, and the name of Crail occurs on a map of the twelfth century.

There was in ancient times a royal castle at Crail, in which David I. resided, and a number of names still exist in the locality, showing its connection with royalty. The earliest charter of the burgh was granted by Bruce in 1310, and confirmed by subsequent kings. It is believed that at one time Crail was the site of a priory dedicated to St. Rufus, the tradition of which is preserved in several local names, such as, the prior’s croft, the prior’s walls, the nun’s peat field, and the house of the prioress, which in 1640 was in the hands of a neighbouring proprietor.

The Church of Crail belonged from an early date to the Cistercian Nuns of Haddington. In 1177 the stipend is mentioned. This church was made collegiate and well endowed by Sir William Myreton, vicar of Lathrick in 1509. He also established the altar of St. Michael the Archangel in 1512, and in 1514 he founded an altar to the praise and honour of God, the Virgin Mary, and all saints, which he placed in the presentation and donation of the bailies and community. Sir William Myreton also showed himself a benefactor of the town by founding schools there in 1525, one being for the teaching of grammar and the other of music. In 1515, besides the above chaplainries, there existed in the church chaplainries of St. James the apostle, St. Bartholomew, and St. Nicholas. An inventory has been preserved, from which it appears that the various altars were well furnished with plate and vestments. On account of the foundation of the new College in the parish church, a charter was issued by Andrew, Archbishop of St. Andrews, confirming letters by the Prioress of Haddington, by Sir William Myreton, by the bailies and community of Crail, and by the parishioners of the parish church, for the foundation of a provostry with ten prebendaries, to be in the gift of the Prioress. In 1520 another prebend was added, viz., that of St. John the Baptist. The priory of Haddington having been erected in 1621 into a temporal lordship in favour of John, Master of Lauderdale, the kirk lands of Crail fell to him.

But in 1587 James VI. had granted a charter to the town of everything belonging to the chaplainries, altarages, and prebends, or to the kirk or college, except what pertained to the Abbey of Haddington. This charter was granted on account of the prebendaries and others following the usual course as the Reformation approached, and alienating the lands of their benefices for their own private advantage. The old College Church thus passed into the hands of the burgh, and was confirmed to it in 1633 by Act of Parliament, and is still used as the parish church.[115]

Although the fabric has been subjected to a considerable amount of modern improvement, many of the original features still remain. Themain body of the church (Fig.1183) consists, as it has always done, of an oblong main structure, divided by two rows of columns into a central nave, and two side aisles. The nave is 63 feet long, the central division being 27 feet 6 inches wide, and the side aisles 11 feet wide. The central columns carry pointed arches (Fig.1184), and in the wall above them was originally a small window over each column (not over the arches as usual) with widely splayed jambs and trefoil head. The roof of the aisles, being below the sill of these clerestory windows, was necessarily low. This was found in recent times to be a disadvantage, and the walls of the aisles have been rebuilt and heightened, so as to allow the roof of the central nave to run down over them without a break (Fig.1185). The old clerestory windows are thus roofed in, and are only visible in the inside

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