TULLIBARDINE CHURCH,Perthshire.

Durham of Mollet.Durham and Murray.Fig. 1254.—Stirling Parish Church. Arms in St. Andrew’s Chapel.

Durham of Mollet.

Durham and Murray.

Fig. 1254.—Stirling Parish Church. Arms in St. Andrew’s Chapel.

in the west wall is square lintelled, and has a straight sconsion arch (see Fig.1249). This chapel exhibits, in small space, three methods of

Fig. 1255.—Stirling Parish Church.Founder’s Arms in St. Andrew’s Chapel.

Fig. 1255.—Stirling Parish Church.

Founder’s Arms in St. Andrew’s Chapel.

covering an opening, the architect being apparently indifferent as to which was used, so that it served the purpose.

The chapel is groined in the ordinary manner, the masonry being, as usual, very fine. The ribs are all of the same general section (Fig.1253,A A), but each set is slightly different in size, the diagonals being the largest. There are no wall ribs. The details of the carved bosses at the intersections are shown in Fig.1253,B. A stone bench runs

Fig. 1256.—Stirling Parish Church.Arms and Initials in St. Andrew’s Chapel.

Fig. 1256.—Stirling Parish Church.

Arms and Initials in St. Andrew’s Chapel.

along the west side only.

There is a roughly formed square recess, about 12 inches wide (see Fig.1248), in the north wall near the east end, and in the east wall at the south-east corner (see Plan and Fig.1250) there is an ogee-headed recess, about 7 inches high by 5 inches wide and 2½ inches deep, at about 3 feet 6 inches from the floor. There are recesses somewhat similar to the latter at Paisley Abbey.

St. Andrew’s Chapel was erected by Duncan Forrester of Garden, Knight, whose initials arecut on the lintel of the west window (see Fig.1253,C), and his arms, together with a saltier for St. Andrew, are carved on the centre boss (see Fig.1253,B). The name of Duncan Forrester occurs in charters

Fig. 1257.—Stirling Parish Church.Details of Niche in St. Andrew’s Chapel.

Fig. 1257.—Stirling Parish Church.

Details of Niche in St. Andrew’s Chapel.

relating to Stirling in 1479 and onwards for a period of forty years. He was provost of the town of Stirling, and appears to have been a liberal benefactor to this church. As shown on the Plan there are three interesting grave slabs in the chapel. One of these, of the date 1584, contains the arms of Durham of Grange (Fig.1254); but as no member of that family had A. D. as initials at that period, the monument may probably have belonged

Fig. 1258.Stirling Parish Church. Exterior Base.

Fig. 1258.

Stirling Parish Church. Exterior Base.

to the Durhams of Mollet, one of whom, with the above initials, married Eliz. Murray. This would correspond with the initials and lower shield on the slab (see Fig.1254) in which the Durham and Murray arms are impaled. The adjoining slab exhibits six shields. One of these contains the founder’s arms (Fig.1255), and another a curious figure arranged saltier-wise. Nothing can be determined as to the carving on the other shields. The remaining slab contains the arms and initials of Duncan Forrester (Fig.1256), possibly the son of the founder, and the Erskine arms with the initials M. E. A consecration cross is shown (see Fig.1253), which is carved on the north wall of the chapel.

In Fig.1257are shown detached portions of a niche, including the canopy and corbel, lying on the floor. The exterior base of the church, which is partly returned round the west side of this chapel, is shown in Fig.1258.

There were north and south doorways to the nave, opposite each other, in the second bay from the west. The south one had a large porch, now destroyed.

The tower, which is oblong in plan, measures about 31 feet from north to south by about 22 feet from east to west, and, according to Mr. Ronalds, it is 85 feet high to the top of the parapet, and 15 feet more to the apexof the spirelet. It is quite evident that it has been built at two periods. The lower part, judging from the window mouldings and what remains of the base of the west door, is contemporary with the church, or of early fifteenth century work. The upper part is contracted to nearly a square of about 25 feet on Plan, there being a balcony on the north and one on the south (see Fig.1239). A turret stair in the north-west corner gives access from the church to the top. This tower, especially as seen from the west, is very picturesque, where the long unbroken line of the stair turret contrasts beautifully with recessed outlines of the other corner (see Fig.1248).

This tower is amongst the best specimens of the Scottish architecture of the sixteenth century, as applied to ecclesiastical structures.

This edifice, which is unused, although in an almost perfect state of preservation, is situated about six miles south from Crieff. It “was founded in honour of our Blessed Saviour, for a provost and several prebendaries, by Sir David Murray of Tullibardine, ancestor of the Duke of Athol, in

Fig. 1259.—Tullibardine Church.Arms of Sir David Murray in Chancel.

Fig. 1259.—Tullibardine Church.

Arms of Sir David Murray in Chancel.

the year 1446.”[130]Sir David died the same year and was buried in the church, where his arms (Fig.1259) still remain on the interior of the north side of the choir, quartered with those of his wife Isobel, second daughter of Sir John Stewart of Innermeith and Lorn. The lady’s arms, it will be observed, occupy the first and fourth quarters.

This is one of the few collegiate churches in Scotland which were entirely finished and still remain unaltered. It is of a cruciform plan (Fig.1260) and has a small western tower entering from the church by a narrow doorway. The building measures internally from east to west along the south side 62 feet 1½ inches, and along the north side 64 feet 6½ inches by 18 feet 5½ inches in breadth, and the walls are 14 feet 3 inches high from the floor to the wall head. The measurements over the transepts are 64 feet 5 inches from north to south, by 15 feet 10 inches in width (inside measure). The tower is a small apartment of 6 feet 11 inches by 4 feet 9 inches.

There are two entrances, one being at the west end of the south wall(Fig.1261). It is round-arched with a bead and hollow moulding and a rude string cap. The other is a plain lintelled doorway in the north transept.

In each of the north and south walls of the transept there is a traceried window, the one to the south (Fig.1262) having three lights and the other (Fig.1263) two lights. The walls are of considerable thickness, and the tracery is well recessed (Fig.1264) and gives, in consequence,

Fig. 1260.—Tullibardine Church. Plan.

a massive and substantial appearance to the otherwise well designed windows.

The other windows are simple and such as are found in castles and minor churches. That adjoining the entrance to the south transept is interesting from having its sconsion arch (Fig.1265) neatly constructed so as to die away upon the splay. In the west gable there are two narrow windows. The lintels of these, instead of being level, lie at the same angle as the slope of the gable, and just a little below it (Fig.1266). A similar kind of window may be observed at Dunblane at the east end ofthe room over the north aisle of the choir. The transepts each open from the church by a segmental arch (see Fig.1265), springing from splayed

Fig. 1261.—Tullibardine Church. South Doorway.

responds, having moulded bases and caps (Fig.1267). From the floor to the top of the caps measures 8 feet 2 inches, and the arch has a rise of2 feet 10 inches, in a width of 11 feet 9½ inches. It is difficult to say how the roof at this part was finished originally. The present roof at the east end is of considerable antiquity, having timbers about 6 inches square, but the part resting on the transept arch is comparatively modern. That it was not finished as it is now is almost certain, as there appears to have been a gable over the arch, separating the transept roofs from the main roof.

There are several ambries in the church. The one at the east end of the south wall is handsome (Fig.1268), having a pointed ogee arched

Fig. 1262.—Tullibardine Church. View from South-East.

head, with bead and hollow mouldings and bases wrought in the hollows. In the east jamb of the south transept arch (see Plan and Fig.1265) there is a narrow arched recess about 6½ inches wide by 3½ inches in depth.

The east end of the church appears to have been covered with tapestry, as the laths for attaching it to are still in position on the walls. At the west wall and the end walls of the transepts the pieces securing the feet of the rafters are brought down the walls flush with the face, and would also afford facilities for hanging tapestry.

A peculiar feature of the church is the rise of the floor at the west end by two steps. The steps appear to be original, and may possibly be in connection with a burial vault beneath.

In the exterior of the north wall of the transept (see Fig.1263) are inserted two shields. The one over the doorway (Fig.1269) contains the arms of Murray of Tullibardine—three stars within a double tressure,

Fig. 1263.—Tullibardine Church. North Transept.

flowered and counter-flowered. The other contains the arms of Sir William Murray of Tullibardine (son of Sir David, the founder of the College) impaled with those of his wife Margaret, daughter of Sir John Colquhoun of Luss. On the skew stones (Fig.1270), which are peculiarly shaped, the star is frequently wrought.

In the west wall of the tower there is a niche (Fig.1271) with acanopy and bracket. If it ever was adorned with a figure it is now empty, and the figure has disappeared. Beneath the niche there is a

Fig. 1264.—Tullibardine Church. North and South Transepts.

small round opening, a kind of spy hole or shot hole from the tower, which was doubtless a place of security.

Fig. 1265.—Tullibardine Church. Interior, looking South-East.We have to thank Mr. T. S. Robertson for assistance in connection with this Sketch.

Fig. 1265.—Tullibardine Church. Interior, looking South-East.

We have to thank Mr. T. S. Robertson for assistance in connection with this Sketch.

Fig. 1270.—Tullibardine Church.Skew Stone.Fig. 1267.—Tullibardine Church.Jamb of Transept Arch.Fig. 1268.—Tullibardine Church.Ambry at East End of South Wall.Fig. 1266.—Tullibardine Church.Window in West Gable.Fig. 1269.—Tullibardine Church.Arms on Exterior of North Transept.Fig. 1271.—Tullibardine Church.Niche in Tower.

Fig. 1270.—Tullibardine Church.Skew Stone.

Fig. 1267.—Tullibardine Church.Jamb of Transept Arch.

Fig. 1268.—Tullibardine Church.Ambry at East End of South Wall.

Fig. 1266.—Tullibardine Church.Window in West Gable.

Fig. 1269.—Tullibardine Church.Arms on Exterior of North Transept.

Fig. 1271.—Tullibardine Church.Niche in Tower.

The ancient town of Maybole, which is situated on the side of a hill about nine miles south from Ayr, was formerly the capital of Carrick, and contained the castle of the Earl of Cassillis[131]and the town houses of the lairds of the district. Being within two miles of Crosraguel Abbey and having a collegiate establishment within the town, the ecclesiastical

Fig. 1267.Tullibardine Church.Jamb of Transept Arch.Fig. 1272.—Maybole Collegiate Church. Plan.

Fig. 1267.

Tullibardine Church.

Jamb of Transept Arch.

Fig. 1272.—Maybole Collegiate Church. Plan.

element would not be wanting in the society of the place. At the Reformation the house of the provost was the scene of a celebrated debate between John Knox and Quentin Kennedy, Abbot of Crosraguel, in September 1561.

The college stands on gently sloping ground near the base of the hill on which the town is situated, and is now enclosed within the streets.

In 1371 a chapel was founded in Maybole by Sir John Kennedy of Dunure, and endowed for one clerk and three chaplains. This was probably the earliest foundation of the kind established in Scotland, but it had many successors as collegiate churches in the following century.

Fig. 1273.—Maybole Collegiate Church. View from South-West.

In Abercrummie’s description of Carrick,[132]written in the end of the seventeenth century, the collegiate church is mentioned as being still entire, “being now used as the burial-place of the Earl of Cassillis, and other gentlemen who contributed to the putting of a roofe upon it, when it was decayed.” It is further mentioned that the “Colledge consisted of a rector and three prebends, whose stalls are all of them yet extant, save the rector’s.”

The houses or “stalls” of the prebends are now all gone, and the church is again roofless. The freestone has been taken away from many of the buttresses, and the tracery of the windows is broken and most of the windows built up.

The church as it now stands (Fig.1272) consists of a simple oblong 52 feet long by 18 feet wide internally, but there are evidences of its having been altered. There was a small sacristy on the north side, with a good pointed doorway leading into the church.

Fig. 1274.—Maybole Collegiate Church. Tracery in Windows.

Both in the north and south walls (Fig.1273) of the edifice there is a very narrow pointed and cusped window, which does not correspond with the other details of the building, and close to the narrow window in the south wall there is a dressed corner, now built against, which seems to indicate a complete change in the structure at this point. The east window and the two windows adjoining it in the north and south sides still retain part of their tracery (Fig.1274), which is of a late character. A recess with pointed arch-head for a tomb or an Easter sepulchre in the north wall of the choir (Fig.1275) contains mouldings enriched with imitations of the dog-tooth, and the arches of the south-west doorway (see Fig.1273) have also similar dog-tooth ornaments. The church having been founded in 1371, when the first pointed period (to which the dog-tooth belongs) had long passed away, there can be no doubt of the above ornaments being very late revivals, even if the style of their execution did not make that apparent.

The south-west doorway is, however, a good lateadaptationor imitation of a thirteenth century design, like other imitations of early work which were common during the third pointed period. The doorway is surmounted by a shield bearing the Kennedy arms.

The west end (see Fig.1273) has a buttress in the centre, while in the inside opposite it the recess of a built up window is observable (see Plan), thus further indicating alteration. It seems probable that the church was originally small, and the narrow windows, above referred to, may possibly be remains of the original fabric. Then at a later date the

Fig. 1275.—Maybole Collegiate Church. Interior of East End.

structure was probably enlarged and partly rebuilt, when the enlarged traceried windows, the recess in the choir, and the south-west doorway—all of which are undoubtedly late—were introduced. This may have occurred aboutA.D.1500. The ruined sacristy still retains its barrel vault (Fig.1276).

Abercrummie further says—“On the north syde of the kirk is the buriall place of the laird of Colaine within ane enclosure of new square-stone lately built.” This enclosure remains, and its architecture corresponds with the date mentioned, viz., seventeenth century. The entrance doorway (see Fig.1276) is elaborate, but considerably decayed, and over

Fig. 1276.—Maybole Collegiate Church. Doorway to Burial Vault.

it a large shield bears the Kennedy arms, impaled with another. The church itself is now used as a burial ground by certain families of the name of Kennedy.

The town of Biggar lies in a valley in the Upper Ward of Lanarkshire, through which communication is obtained between the upper reaches of the Clyde and the Tweed. From an early period Biggar was a rectory in the Deanery of Lanark. The parson of Biggar is mentioned in deeds of the twelfth century, and several of the rectors held important appointments at Court.

In 1545 the Church of St. Nicholas was founded and endowed by Malcolm, Lord Fleming, the Lord High Chancellor of Scotland. The charter of foundation still exists. It was addressed by Lord Fleming to Cardinal Beaton, and states that the church was to be erected in honour of the Holy Trinity, the Blessed Virgin Mary, St. Nicholas the patron of Biggar, and St. Ninian. The purpose of the foundation was to support a provost, eight canons or prebendaries, four singing boys, and six poor nuns, and the presentations and endowment of these officials were reserved to the Lord Fleming. The special duties of the prebendaries were as follow:—The first prebendary was to instruct the singing boys in music, the second was to be master of the grammar school, the third was to act as sacristan—to ring the bell, to light the tapers on the four altars, and to attend to the vestments and ornament thereof—and the fourth prebendary had charge of the poor nuns and gave them their allowances. A hospital was to be provided for the poor nuns, and suitable houses were to be erected for the provost and canons.

During the progress of the work, Malcolm, Lord Fleming, died. The building was carried on by his son, and scarcely completed before the Reformation supervened to interrupt the work.[133]

This church (Fig.1277), like many of the collegiate edifices erected prior to this time, is cruciform in plan, consisting of chancel with apsidal east end, transept, and nave, with square tower over the crossing. There are no aisles in any part of the church.

It is supposed by Grose (who saw the building more than 100 years ago, before it was restored) that the nave, which is built with whinstone rubble work, was probably part of an original church which was enlarged by Lord Fleming, by the addition of a transept and chancel. This may have been the case, but the nave is now so completely altered and modernised that it is impossible to say. The chancel, transept, and tower

Fig. 1277.—Biggar Collegiate Church. Plan.

over the crossing are evidently of a different period from the nave, being all built with freestone ashlar.

The total length of the structure internally is 112 feet by 20 feet

Fig. 1278.—Biggar Collegiate Church. South Transept and Tower.

4 inches in width, but about 24 feet have been cut off the west end of the nave so as to form a lobby and staircase to a gallery and a vestry at the west end. A south-west porch gives access to these places. Formerly the

Fig. 1279.—Biggar Collegiate Church. View from South-East.

chapter house existed on the north side of the chancel, but it was removed, and a new vestry is now erected in its place.

The principal entrance into the collegiate church was by a round arched doorway in the south wall of the transept (Fig.1278), and it is believed that there was also a door in the west end. A small wheel staircase in the south-east angle of the north transept leads to the roof and tower, and also to an organ gallery in the north transept. The top of the stair turret, as seen in the view, is modern.

The exterior, as viewed from the south-east (Fig.1279), has a good

Fig. 1280.—Biggar Collegiate Church.Details of Doorway in South Transept.

Fig. 1280.—Biggar Collegiate Church.

Details of Doorway in South Transept.

effect, with the square battlemented tower rising boldly above the buttressed chancel and transept. The windows are all pointed and filled with simple tracery, and the buttresses are of simple but good design, having a broad water table on top, and no pinnacles.

The windows are each set in a rectangular recess, which, although a novelty, cannot be said to to be an improvement. It is in keeping with the square forms of the Renaissance then being introduced. The arches and jambs have triple splays. The doorway in the south transept is a little more ornamental. The arch is round, as very usual in Scotland, and there are two recessed arches, the inner one moulded and the outer having enriched caps (Fig.1280).

The tower contains a room on the first floor with a fireplace, and over it is the belfry.

It is understood that the ancient roof was of oak, and that the timbers in the chancel were gilt and emblazoned, doubtless with the arms of the Flemings, who were buried there.

The interior (Fig.1281) has been greatly remodelled, but the principal arches at the crossing are preserved. The roof being of timber, the arches

Fig. 1281.—Biggar Collegiate Church. Interior, looking East.

of the transepts are carried well up, and the windows are also of good size, so that the church is well lighted, and forms, in this respect, a striking contrast to Ladykirk and similar vaulted structures.

After the Reformation the offices and emoluments passed into the hands of laymen.

Carnwath is situated about two miles west from Carstairs Junction.

The original foundation of this church dates from a very early time. In the middle of the twelfth century it was bestowed by William de Sumerville on Glasgow Cathedral, which grant was confirmed by Pope AlexanderIII.in 1170. The existing building is, however, of much more recent date. It formed the north wing of the parish church, and was added after a Collegiate foundation had been erected in 1425 by Thomas, first Lord Somerville, for a provost and six prebendaries, and is thus

Fig. 1282.—Carnwath Church. Plan of North Transept.

described in theMemoire of the Somervilles, written about the end of the seventeenth century:—“The yle itself is but little, however neatly and conveniently built opposite the middle (on the North side) of the church; all aisles, both within and without, haveing pinickles upon all the corners, wherein are engraven, besydes other imagerie the armes of the Somervills and Sinclaires (the family of the wife of the founder), very discernable to the occular aspectione, albeit it be two hundereth and fyfie-eight years since they were placed there.”[134]

The parish church, which formerly consisted of chancel, nave, and transept, has been removed, and there now only remains a portion of thenorth transept, which has been used as the burial-place of the Lords Carnwath-Somerville till the latter half of the seventeenth century, and the Lockharts since then.

The building (Fig.1282) stands north and south, and measures about 25 feet long by 22 feet 6 inches wide (externally). The style (Fig.1283)

Fig. 1283.—Carnwath Church. View from North-West.

is generally like that of the contemporary churches of Scotland; but the large north window is remarkable from having a closer affinity than usual with the English perpendicular. In order to carry the heavy stone roof, shown in the sketch, the building is covered with a pointed barrel vault such as is generally employed for this purpose; and, as frequently happens,the vault is divided into bays, and is ornamented with decorative ribs springing from shafts attached to the wall. Some of the caps bear the arms of the founder and his spouse. The vaulting gives rise to the massive buttresses employed, and to the depressed form of the two-light square-headed side windows on each side, one of which is seen in the sketch.

The building having been restored, several new features have been added. Thus the belfry on the south gable and the cross on the north gable are modern. The north doorway under the large window is also an insertion, but is believed to have been formed with the stones of the old doorway of the church. The pinnacles referred to in the above quoted description still exist (although partly restored), but the coats of arms on the buttresses are no longer visible. The outline of the arch in the south gable, which formerly opened from the transept into the church, can still be traced (see Plan).

The interior contains a fine altar-tomb, bearing the recumbent figures of Hugh, Lord Somerville, who died in 1549, and his second wife, Janet, daughter of William Maitland of Ledington, who died about 1550. Lord Hugh was a great favourite of James V., who frequently visited him at his Castle of Cowthally.

In the churchyard of Carnwath there is another recumbent effigy, apparently of older date, but its history is unknown.

This somewhat remarkable structure stands in the midst of beautiful woodland scenery, on a gentle acclivity above Lochwinnoch, near the point at the north end where the Black Cart flows from the loch.

A collegiate church was founded on this site, and endowed in 1504

Fig. 1284.—Castle Semple Collegiate Church. Plan.

Fig. 1285.—Castle Semple Collegiate Church. View from South-East.

Fig. 1286.—Castle Semple Collegiate Church. View from North-West.

by John, first Lord Sempill, near his own residence of Castle Semple. The establishment consisted of a provost, six chaplains, two boys, and a sacristan. The church (Fig.1284) measures within the walls 66 feet in length by 19 feet in width. The building is a simple oblong, terminating toward the east in a three-sided apse, and having a square tower projecting from the centre of the west wall.

Fig. 1287.—Castle Semple Collegiate Church. Monument to John, Lord Sempill.

The style of the east end (Fig.1285) is very remarkable. The forms of the double windows indicate plainly that they are very late survivals of spurious Gothic work, and a close examination of the building tends to confirm this view. The other windows in the side walls have been greatly altered, but they do not present any features at all like those of the apse. Over the door to the chancel are two coats of armswith the letters R. L. S. and A. M. S., the dexter shield bearing the Sempill arms and the sinister the Montgomerie. The square tower at the west end (Fig.1286) is extremely simple, and has no analogy with the work at the east end.

Fig. 1288.Castle Semple Collegiate Church.Slab to Gabriel Sempill.

Fig. 1288.

Castle Semple Collegiate Church.

Slab to Gabriel Sempill.

There can be little doubt that the tower and most of the side walls are of about the date of the original foundation, while the east apse has been added in the sixteenth century, to receive the monument of John, Lord Sempill, who fell at Flodden in 1513. A few remains of the original square-headed windows in the side walls are still traceable.

The interior has, within recent times, been divided by two solid walls into three compartments, so as to form separate private burial-places, and this operation seems to have caused the further alteration and building up of the side windows.

In the eastern compartment stands, against the north wall, the large monument to Lord Sempill (Fig.1287), which bears the following inscription:—

· · ·John · Lord · Sempil ande · his · Laydi · D · · · Margarita· · ·

It must have been erected after 1513, and shows the last expiring effort of the Gothic decorative spirit. The cusped half-arch half-lintel is a kind of compromise between the Gothic and Renaissance, and the exuberant foliage of the upper portion shows late Gothic forms run wild.

The architecture of the apse windows corresponds in extravagance with that of the monument.

A monumental slab in the central compartment (Fig.1288) is erected in memory of “Gabriel Sempel,” who died in 1587. This shows the style

Fig. 1289.—Castle Semple Collegiate Church.Carved Stone.

Fig. 1289.—Castle Semple Collegiate Church.

Carved Stone.

of lettering which was in use about that time, together with the Sempill arms.

A carved stone (Fig.1289) (from a sketch by Mr. William Galloway), which seems to have been the socket of a cross, stands in the building, and was perhaps used at one time as a font. It is octagonal in form, and has an oblong sinking in the centre.

The mendicant orders were introduced into Scotland by Alexander II. (1214-49), who is stated to have founded eight convents for Dominicans, but only two for Franciscans. From an old undated charter it is believed that the latter order was established in Elgin under Alexander III., but their original monastery appears to have fallen into decay. It was, however, revived under James I. (1424-37) for the order of Observantines introduced into Scotland by that king.

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