THE GOLDEN GATE.THE GOLDEN GATE.
Tuesday, July 31.
Weather fine—warm days and cool nights. Break camp at a late hour and leave the Sweetwater River, and in 16 miles’ travel we intersect it again, where we unpack our mules and dine. Grouse are very plentiful in this region. Remain two hours, after which we travel up the river six miles and camp where we find good grass. The Sweetwater is a fork of the Platte and derives its name from the peculiar taste of the water.
Wednesday, August 1.
We are now near the summit of the Rocky Mountains, at an elevation of about 7,000 feet above the Gulf of Mexico.
There was a heavy frost this morning.
Traveled up the river 11 miles in the forenoon. In the afternoon we traveled up the river five miles farther and camped on a small branch of the Sweetwater. We left the road today with the intention of taking a straight course through the mountains to Fort Hall, thereby avoiding the circuitous route by the way of Fort Bridges.
Captain Thing, our guide, states that he once traveled the route and in his opinion we shall find good grass and water, and that there is an Indian trail through which he thinks he can follow. The main road is now several miles to the south of us. This is known as the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains. Many suppose it to be a narrow, precipitous pass with high mountains on either side; but it is directly the reverse, it being almost a level plain, extending many miles to the north and to thesouth; and were it not that the waters divide near this place, and a portion flow to the Gulf of Mexico, and another portion to the Pacific Ocean through the Colorado River and the Gulf of California, any one would not believe that they were standing on the summit of the Rocky Mountains.
The altitude of the South Pass is said to be 7,200 feet, as taken by Col. J. C. Fremont about two years since.
Thursday, August 2.
The weather was so cold last night that water in our buckets was frozen over this morning.
Traveled 13 miles over a sandy, barren country and intersect the Little Sandy River, a small stream coursing south. After camping I went out and shot a dozen grouse. Several others were out at the same time and killed as many as I did.
Friday, August 3.
Traveled 9 miles to the Big Sandy River and camped. Land poor and somewhat broken; destitute of timber with the exception of small willows near the streams.
Saturday, August 4.
Started this morning for Green River and traveled 30 miles over a barren desert, destitute of both grass and water. The country is not very broken, and we had no difficulty in traveling wherever we chose. We intersected Green River at a point where grass was abundantand wood plentiful. Mr. Hodgdon, a prominent man of our company, was taken sick yesterday and was unable to travel this morning, consequently we left him behind together with eight other men, and we shall remain here until they arrive.
Sunday, August 5.
Remained in camp here today. Green River is a clear, rapid stream, ten to fifteen rods wide and is fordable in many places. It is one of the principal branches of the Colorado. Its waters are very cold, and its source is said to be Fremont’s Peak, a snow-capped mountain a considerable distance north, the altitude of which is about 13,000 feet.
Monday, August 6.
As we did not start today, some of us went deer hunting and killed one buck. At 9 o’clock in the evening the men whom we left behind with Mr. Hodgdon arrived safely, he having nearly recovered.
Tuesday, August 7.
Two or three of our company were not in very good health today and consequently we remained at the old camp ground.
Wednesday, August 8.
Our mules are in much better condition than they were when we camped on Green River. They had become sowild that it was with considerable difficulty that we could catch them this morning.
Start this morning and travel down the river about one mile where we ford it without difficulty. We then followed down the river two miles farther to a branch that came from the west. We followed this branch up 15 miles and camped.
Thursday, August 9.
We left the stream this morning and commenced ascending a mountain. At noon we ate our dinner at a very fine mountain spring.
In the afternoon we continued to ascend and passed through a heavy growth of spruce timber. Our ascent was gradual until about 4 o’clock, when we found ourselves at the top of a peak of the Rocky Mountains. To the west and north the descent was steep—almost precipitous. We could see the stream that we had left in the morning many hundreds of feet below, but to reach it with our pack mules seemed almost an impossibility. There were but two ways from which to choose—either to descend to the stream, or retrace our steps. We were not long in deciding, and we chose the first and concluded to try to descend. In about two hours we reached the stream in a small pleasant valley. The descent made by us was about 2,000 feet and probably about one and one-half miles in length, the greater part being covered with a thick growth of standing and fallen timber.
Captain Thing says he was never before at this place and is at a loss to know what route to take to get out. (Distance, 15 miles.)
Friday, August 10.
We started in the morning and followed the stream up seven miles to its source. We then traveled one mile farther and halted, where we found neither water nor grass.
Captain Thing, with two or three men, went ahead to endeavor to find a passage through the mountains, which are heavily timbered and very rough and broken. They returned before night and we went on two miles farther through a dense growth of spruce, pine and fir and camped. Good grass and excellent water. This is in a small valley. (Distance, 10 miles.)
Saturday, August 11.
Started in good season this morning and soon after crossed some small mountainous streams, the headwaters of the Columbia. We traveled over hills and through small valleys a few miles when we began to descend a high mountain. The descent is very steep and we were an hour in making it. We reached the valley at length, through which passed a small stream with a southern course, which is probably a tributary of Bear River. We followed the valley down five miles, where we halted an hour or two, after which we packed and went down five miles farther, where we left the valley and passed over a ridge in a westerly direction and entered another small valley with a small stream.
We followed down this stream five miles and camped. We passed over places today on the sides of mountains along Indian trails which were about one foot wide, onboth sides of which were steeps, almost perpendicular, for hundreds of feet on the one side up and on the other down; and in many places, should a horse or mule make a misstep, they would be precipitated to the bottom. This is not only disagreeable and perplexing traveling, but dangerous. The mountains are very rough and broken and are principally heavily timbered. A great part of the timber has been killed by fire. Where we halted at noon I found strawberries plentiful and fine. The 11th of August seems late for that kind of fruit.
We have passed over several snow banks within two or three days, and sometimes found beautiful flowers in blossom within 20 feet of them. (Distance, 20 miles.)
Sunday, August 12.
We had a dispute, or difference of opinion, this morning about starting. Captain Thing wished to remain here today and look out a route for tomorrow, and go straight through to Fort Hall. He thought we had come too far north for the route he had taken eleven years previous, and said that had caused our misfortune.
A part of the company desired to remain and follow the guide. The others had lost all confidence in his knowledge as a guide in the Rocky Mountain country, and wished to start today and follow the small stream down to Bear River valley, where it was thought to flow.
A vote of the company was taken on the question and the latter party was in the majority.
We started at 8 o’clock and travelled down the stream a distance of about 22 miles, where we intersected Bear River valley near the mouth of Smith’s Fork where theroad crosses the same. We traveled three miles farther and camped on Bear River.
Our road today was wellnigh impassable. We are once again on the California trail after having wandered in the mountains for twelve days. Many ox teams that were behind us when we left the road on the Sweetwater River, are now many miles in advance of us. This route has been christened “Thing’s Cutoff.” A majority of the company was in favor of trying it, relying on Captain Thing’s knowledge of the country and experience.
Monday, August 13.
Traveled ten miles down the river, crossed Thomas’ Fork and camped.
Bear River valley is very beautiful and possesses a fertile soil, but the altitude is high. The nights are probably frosty.
Bear River discharges its waters into Great Salt Lake at its northern extremity. The River Jordan also discharges its Salt Lake at its south side, and yet the lake has no visible outlet. (Distance, 10 miles.)
Tuesday, August 14.
In the forenoon we passed over a high spur of the mountains and intersected the river again near Peg Leg Smith’s, an old one-legged trader who has lived here among the Indians fourteen years. He has a small log cabin and one or two other small buildings.
We saw an old Mormon here who tried hard to induce us to go by the way of Salt Lake City. He said it wouldbe no farther than to follow the California trail, and offered us his services as a pilot. A majority of the company were at first in favor of adopting that plan, but on referring the matter to Peg Leg Smith, who is perfectly well acquainted with both routes, we learned that the old Mormon was lying and that the distance by way of the Mormon city would be at least 150 miles greater. Smith has a squaw wife, and trades with the Indians and immigrants.
We left the Mormon and traveled six miles and camped. (Distance, 18 miles.)
Wednesday, August 15.
Traveled 20 miles down Bear River and camped. The weather is fine.
Thursday, August 16.
Started in the morning and after 13 miles of travel reached the Soda Springs. From the journals of Col. John C. Fremont, Bryant and others, anyone would suppose that the waters of these springs were a delicious beverage to the weary traveler, and I had been led to anticipate having a fine draught of soda from nature’s own fountains, pure and unadulterated. I came up to one of the springs where several members of the company were drinking from a tin cup. Feeling somewhat thirsty I did not wait my turn for the cup, but lay down to drink from the spring. I drank one or two swallows when I arose, perfectly satisfied with soda water. I very much disliked its taste. Of all the bad water I have been obliged to drink on the plains it is the worst of all.
There are several of these springs in this vicinity, but the most interesting of all is near the bank of Bear River, and is known as the Steamboat Spring. It issues from a hole in a rock, a foot or more in diameter, and at one moment the water will boil up a foot or two above the surface of the rock and at the next it will settle down so that no water will be visible. Thus it continues to ebb and flow, and has ever since first discovered by white men, it is said.
The chemical qualities I will not undertake to explain. Some of the company seemed to like the taste of the soda water, but I noticed they did not drink very heartily from it. Three miles from the Soda Springs we came to a fork in the road—one branch leading to Fort Hall, it being the old Oregon Trail of about 1843. The other is a new trail called the “Immigrants’ Cutoff,” which is said to be 20 or 30 miles shorter.
By a majority vote of the company we concluded to take the cutoff. We soon after passed near an extinct crater, which at some time in the past, had vomited forth its molten lava and covered the plains over which we passed.
Traveled until about 9 o’clock and camped on a small stream. (Distance, 28 miles.)
Friday, August 17.
We started late in the morning and traveled eight miles in the forenoon and ten in the afternoon and camped where we found good grass and good water, which arethe two principal requisites to a good camp ground. (Distance, 18 miles.)
Saturday, August 18.
Traveled ten miles in the forenoon and 12 in the afternoon, and camped at a fine spring. Springs are plentiful on this road and grass is good.
Sunday, August 19.
Remained encamped today. Water was frozen over to the thickness of a quarter of an inch last night. Summer berries are very plentiful along the route. They much resemble the sugar plum of New England, but are nearly as large as a good sized cherry. We have found the road very hilly for the last two or three days.
Monday, August 20.
Started at 8 o’clock in the morning and traveled eight and one-half hours before we found water. Camped at a fine spring. (Distance, 25 miles.)
Tuesday, August 21.
Traveled 11 miles in the forenoon and five in the afternoon. Camped at a spring at the south of the road.
Wednesday, August 22.
Decamped and nine miles of travel brought us to a small stream, after which we cross a barren plain, 12 miles broad, destitute of wood, water and grass.
After we had crossed the desert plain we found a small stream of clear, cool water at which we halted two hours and became refreshed. We traveled six miles to Raft River and camped. Here we intersected the old trail from Fort Hall to California. The trail through the Cutoff—a distance of about 120 miles—is good with the exception of being considerably uneven.
Thursday, August 23.
Started at 1 o’clockP.M.and traveled up the stream 11 miles and camped. Road very dry and extremely dusty. Raft River is a tributary of Snake River, which is one of the principal forks of the Columbia.
Finding good grass three or four feet high in this valley, and our stock being in poor condition for traveling, we concluded to remain here until Monday morning. A few of our mules and horses have been left behind, they having become completely worn out or exhausted.
Monday, August 27.
Decamped at an early hour and 11 miles of travel brought us to a small stream where we dined. Eight miles further we intersected the Mormon road, leading from Salt Lake City to California. Camped at a spring six miles farther on.
Calvin S. Fifield and Dr. Haynes left the company this morning and went on in advance, with the intention of buying their provisions of the immigrants and of camping with them, and of arriving in California in advance ofthe body of the company, and making necessary arrangements for its reception.
Tuesday, August 28.
Traveled 11 miles in the forenoon over a hilly and broken country, when we came to Goose Creek in latitude 41° 45´ agreeable to an observation taken by the quadrant.
Traveled up the stream 10 miles in the afternoon. Road level and dusty. Good water and poor grass.
It is thought by many that the Mormons of Salt Lake City have discovered rich gold mines on this stream, and that they are now privately working them and are doing well. How far the statement deserves credit is not known, but I have seen no good reason to believe it.
Wednesday, August 29.
We started at seven in the morning and traveled 12 miles in the forenoon, when we halted for dinner; after which we traveled 15 miles before finding water. We camped at a spring where grass was not very plentiful.
Thursday, August 30.
Very cold morning. Ice formed one-half inch in thickness. We traveled 12 miles in the forenoon over a barren desert and nooned in a small valley, where we found a small quantity of poor water.
Traveled up the valley eight miles in the afternoon and camped at a spring. Grass good.
Friday, August 31.
Started at seven in the morning and traveled up the valley eight miles, where we intersected a small stream where we halted for dinner, after which we traveled two miles and came to a warm spring, the water of which is so hot that the hand cannot be held in it for a moment with comfort. Traveled eight miles farther up the valley, thence over a high mountain ridge and camped at a spring.
Saturday, September 1.
In the forenoon we traveled over a barren plain, ten miles in extent, when we found a spring. Traveled seven miles in the afternoon and intersected a tributary of Mary’s River, or Humboldt River, and camped.
Sunday, September 2.
We did not move our camp today. Grass good. All in good health.
Monday, September 3.
Traveled down the Humboldt valley 11 miles in the forenoon and dined on the river, which at this point is a small stream of clear water.
The valley is broad with a fertile soil which produces a good quality of grass. At this time it is parched with drouth. We traveled down the valley 12 miles over a level road, and camped where we found plenty of grass, four or five feet high, very thick and of fine quality. The land in this vicinity is fertile, but is entirely destitute oftimber, with the exception of some small willows near the streams. The Mormon whom we met on Bear River told us that the grass on Mary’s River had been entirely consumed by fire which had been set by the Digger tribe of Indians for the purpose of preventing the immigrants from passing through to California, and that in his opinion it was an impossibility to travel over that portion of the route with teams of horses or cattle. And further, that authentic reports had reached Salt Lake City that men, women and children were traveling barefooted and destitute of provisions, and that many were dying daily of starvation and exposure. However, his very pitiful tale was not credited to any great extent by our company. His motive, probably, was to induce us to go by the way of the Mormon settlement and sell them a portion of our stock at whatever price they might feel willing to pay. Captain Thing sold him a cow, much against the will of a majority of the company.
They have agents along the road to decoy immigrants through their settlements and then make as much out of them as possible. (Traveled 23 miles.)
Tuesday, September 4.
Started in good season this morning and in seven miles of travel we crossed a fork of Mary’s River—coming from the north—after which we traveled 16 miles and camped on the river, where we found good grass.
We passed over some sand hills today where the road was extremely dusty. After traveling a few miles over this dusty road on a warm day a white man will beequally as black as a negro. The dust here is different from anything of the kind that I have ever before seen. It bears a strong resemblance to ashes in some respects, both in appearance and smell, and seems to contain quite a large percentage of alkali.
Wednesday, September 5.
We started this morning at sunrise and passed down the Humboldt a few miles, where we met a large train of Mormon teams, 53 days from Sutter’s Fort in the Sacramento River valley, on their way to Salt Lake City. They report the miners in California as doing well, and some of them stated that they had as much gold as they wished for.
Traveled 15 miles in the forenoon and 10 in the afternoon and camped on the river, where we found but little grass.
Thursday, September 6.
Started in the morning and went down the river three miles, when we left the same and commenced ascending a mountain, and traveled 18 miles through a mountainous country and over a rough road before we again intersected the river. We then traveled down the river a mile and camped. Grass poor.
Our stock is again in poor condition for traveling, and we have yet a long road before us before we reach the Sacramento valley. Our cattle, which are our principal dependence for our food, are almost destitute of fat or suet, and are composed chiefly of hide, horns, cords and gristle and lean, flabby meat. It is not very nutritiousliving. Our appetites are wonderfully good. We have sometimes boiled the hide when we had plenty of time.
Friday, September 7.
Decamped at sunrise this morning and traveled 11 miles in the forenoon over a very poor and barren country.
In the afternoon we met a train of United States Government teams from Oregon, under the command of Gen. Joel Palmer. This train left Oregon early in the spring, and came by the way of California, where it is thought it remained a long time. It was sent from Oregon with provisions for the benefit of the United States soldiers who are on their way thither to assist the Oregonians in repelling the barbarous attacks of the Indians upon their settlements, it is said, and General Palmer expects to meet the command near Fort Hall.
General Palmer reports having had a serious battle with the Digger Indians at Mud Lake, where he lost one man killed and had two or three wounded.
Traveled 10 miles in the afternoon and camped on the river, where we found good grass.
Saturday, September 8.
Traveled down the river 10 miles in the morning, when we left it and pursued a straight course over a barren plain on which nothing grows except wild sage and greasewood.
After traveling four miles across the desert we again intersected the river and camped. Some of our company
SAN FRANCISCO. 1849.SAN FRANCISCO. 1849.
who followed the trail are in advance of the train, and will probably camp with some other train.
The days are very warm but the nights are cool and pleasant.
Sunday, September 9.
Finding a good supply of grass at this camp ground we did not move our camp today.
Monday, September 10.
Broke camp at six o’clock this morning and traveled down the river 12 miles in the forenoon and 13 in the afternoon and camped. Grass poor.
Tuesday, September 11.
Decamped at 5.30 o’clock this morning and traveled 11 miles in the forenoon and 12 in the afternoon. The road down this river is comfortably good, but is very dry and dusty. The weather has been extremely warm today.
Wednesday, September 12.
Traveled ten miles in the forenoon and nine in the afternoon and camped on the river. A slight shower of rain fell during the night.
Thursday, September 13.
Traveled 16 miles in the forenoon and eight more in the afternoon and camped on the river, where we found a limited quantity of grass.
Friday, September 14.
Traveled 12 miles in the forenoon and halted where grass was not very plentiful. In the afternoon we traveled five miles farther, when we came to another fork in the road.
The left hand road is the old trail and leads down the river to the “Sink,” as it is called, it being where the water of the river disappears in the sandy desert, as is the case with a majority of the streams of the “Great Interior Basin.”
From the “Sink” the road passes thence over a desert plain to Salmon Trout River, and thence across the Sierra Nevada Mountains to the Sacramento valley. The distance from this place to the Sacramento valley, according to the best information in our possession, is about 300 miles.
The other, or right hand road, is called the Cherokee Cutoff, and the distance is said to be but 180 miles from this place to the Feather River gold mines.
The question arose, which of the two roads shall we pursue—follow the old road—the advantages and disadvantages of which we are pretty well informed; or shall we risk the new one of which we know nothing, except from unreliable reports.
The question was submitted to a vote of the company, and it was in favor of trying the “Cutoff,” as it is called, with scarcely a dissenting vote. Haynes and Fifield, who left the company at Raft River, left a posted notice here, which showed them to be several days in advance of us. They chose the old trail, and cautioned us against taking the new one, as it was their opinion that it was a longer and a poorer road.
The “Cutoff” leaves the Humboldt River at a bend, where it curves more southerly, and at what in later times was called “Wannamucca” on the Central Pacific Railroad. The “Cutoff” leaves the river and crosses a desert plain, very barren and slightly undulating, in a westerly direction.
We left the Humboldt with the expectation of being at the gold mines in about a week, providing the reports were reliable as to the distance. We traveled 14 miles after leaving the river before we found water. At that place we found a spring, but there being several trains campedhere tonight, it was with great difficulty that we could procure water sufficient for the needs of our mules and horses.
There is not a spear of grass to be found in this section, and we were compelled to tie our mules to sage brush to keep them from straying away, without a particle of food. (Distance, 31 miles.)
Saturday, September 15.
We started this morning at 5.30 o’clock and traveled 19 miles across a barren, undulating desert, when we came to a place known as the Rabbit Wells, where four or five wells, some 8 or 10 feet deep, have been excavated by the immigrants in advance for the purpose of obtaining water for themselves and their stock.
These wells, with one or two exceptions, were filled with dead animals. Having seen the water at the bottom and being so eager to obtain it, they rushed head first into them, where they perished and could not well be extricated. The water of these wells is of a poor quality and proved to be scarce.
After traveling six or seven hours over a very dusty road on a hot day, it is far better than none. There was a large number of immigrants at the wells and it was difficult to obtain a sufficient quantity of water, it being dipped up with tin cups as fast as it ran into the wells. We remained there one hour and a half and obtained what water we were able to, but could get very little for our animals. Neither was there anything for them to eat.
As we had no beef killed we had nothing for dinner. Beef had been our principal dependence for some time past. It had become very poor and we had almost nothing to cook it with. There are no “Buffalo chips” this side of the Rockies.
We started in the afternoon and at about sunset came in sight of Black Rock (Spring), which was then about nine miles distant across a level, barren plain.
When within about six miles of Black Rock one of the mules which I was driving became so exhausted that he refused to go any farther, and I was obliged to unpack and leave him with the pack by the roadside; after which I reached Black Rock at about eleven o’clock at night.
The company, with a few exceptions, had arrived in advance of me and were principally asleep. I traveled the whole distance (40 miles) on foot, and drove two mules and one horse, which made considerable extra travel. I had no dinner or supper, and after arriving at Black Rock, rolled myself in my blankets and was soon asleep.
Sunday, September 16.
The country over which we made forty miles yesterday is known as the Black Rock Desert, and the road is literally strewn with dead animals—cattle, horses and mules. The stench of these dead and decaying carcasses contributes largely to render the traveling still more disagreeable than it would otherwise be.
The Black Rock Spring, so-called, is a spring several feet in diameter, out of which the water is continually boiling at or near a boiling point. The water may bedrank after being cooled sufficiently, but is not very good water.
We started early this morning and traveled three miles where we found a small quantity of grass and camped. This is the first grass that our animals have found to eat since Friday noon—nearly 45 hours—since which time we have traveled over 60 miles. After we had camped we had a beef animal slaughtered, and a little before noon we managed to get a breakfast, which was the first that some of us had eaten since Friday night.
There are several hot springs in this vicinity. Beef will cook quite quickly in them.
Some of our mules and cattle were left behind on the road yesterday, with a few packs by the roadside.
George Carlton, with two or three others of the company, went back to procure the packs, together with as many of the animals as were able to be brought into camp. They succeeded in bringing into camp the whole number that had been left by our company. (Distance, 3 miles.)
Monday, September 17.
Started in the afternoon and traveled eleven miles where we found some grass and camped.
Tuesday, September 18.
We remained here until afternoon, when we broke camp and traveled 15 miles to Mud Lake, where we stopped for the night. Our course since leaving Humboldt has been nearly northwest and we have traveled upward of 80 miles.
The country is nearly all a barren desert, with very little vegetation except wild sage. What is known as Mud Lake resembles at this time a marsh more than a lake, and is covered with large coarse grass. It may, perhaps, be more of a lake at some seasons of the year. (Distance, 15 miles.)
Wednesday, September 19.
We did not move our camp today.
This is the point where General Palmer’s corps had a battle with the Indians a few weeks since, but we have not seen an Indian since we left the Humboldt River.
A large percentage of the immigration took this route and have passed this point, but it is thought now that the report stating that it did not exceed 180 miles from the Humboldt to Feather River mines, was very unreliable and untruthful.
Thursday, September 20.
We started in the morning and soon after entered a canyon and traveled 12 miles in the forenoon and halted where the rocky bluffs rise nearly 300 feet almost perpendicularly on either side.
Traveled up the canyon nine miles in the afternoon and camped at a spring. Canyon I believe to be a Spanish word and means a deep gorge, ravine, or gulch between high, steep banks, worn by water courses.
Friday, September 21.
Cold morning. Started at 7 o’clock in the morning and traveled up the canyon 12 miles in the forenoon over avery rough road. In the afternoon we traveled 7 miles and camped at a spring.
Saturday, September 22.
Started early in the morning and went over a ridge a distance of 7 miles, thence over a plain 10 miles and camped.
We had a distant view of the Sierra Nevada Mountains today.
Sunday, September 23.
Traveled 5 miles today and camped at a spring.
Monday, September 24.
Decamped early in the morning and after traveling 10 miles, passed several hot springs. Went 9 miles farther and found good grass and water, where we halted two hours, after which we traveled 3 miles and camped at the base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in some large timber, it being the first large trees we have met with since coming into the Great Interior Basin, a distance of about 700 miles. With the exception of a few small valleys along the streams and lakes and at the base of the mountains, the Great Basin seems to be a very barren country. It is a very disagreeable country to travel over.
Tuesday, September 25.
We started this morning and traveled northerly along the base of the Sierras about six miles. We then began to ascend toward the summit of the ridge, and aftertraveling three miles up a very steep ascent we reached the summit.
This seems to be the “Divide” between the waters of the Great Basin and those of the Pacific Ocean. After reaching the summit we soon began to descend and after a descent of one mile entered a beautiful valley. In the afternoon we traveled 10 miles through a heavy growth of yellow pine timber and camped.
It was after dark before we camped and we unpacked our mules at the top of a steep bluff overlooking a lake, known as Goose Lake. No water near our camp ground. The company is scattered tonight, having camped in several different places along the trail.
After we had camped Mr. Carlton and myself volunteered to go to the lake for water, and with buckets we started down the steep, rocky bluff which we found difficult of descent, especially in the dark. The distance was about one-half mile to the base, or shore of the lake, where we anticipated finding an abundant supply of water. But to our great disappointment, we found nothing but a field of dry sand.
However, we supposed we must be very near the shore of the lake, and started in that direction. We traveled about two miles farther over the dry sand, indulging the fond hope of soon reaching the waters of the lake, when we would have the privilege and pleasure of quenching our thirst, which was almost unbearable.
But we were doomed to disappointment as we found nothing but a lake of sand—dry and difficult to travel over; and we returned—climbed the mountain and lay down to rest as best we could. To be really thirsty, withno means of getting water, is truly a horrid sensation. (Distance, 20 miles.)
Wednesday, September 26.
We left camp early in the morning and eventually reached an abundant supply of water.
We left the Oregon trail, which bears northerly along the west end of Goose Lake, our course being nearly south. Our camp last night was near the line separating the Territories of California and Oregon. We traveled down a valley and camped on a small mountain stream. Road good. (Distance, 17 miles.)
Thursday, September 27.
After traveling a short distance this morning we came to the head of Pitt River.
Traveled down the valley 12 miles in the forenoon and 9 in the afternoon and camped on the river, which is a rapid stream nearly as large as the Humboldt.
Friday, September 28.
Traveled down the river 23 miles and found an excellent road and a good supply of grass.
Saturday, September 29.
Traveled 20 miles over a rough road and camped on Pitt River. Grass good.
Sunday, September 30.
We did not move our camp today. Latitude 40° 7´.
The valley along this river has a fertile soil and produces a good quality and a sufficient quantity of grass, but is bordered on both sides by lofty mountains, timbered with pine, fir and spruce. The Indians are said to be very hostile, but we have not met with any since crossing the mountains. They are said to have killed several immigrants within a short time.
Monday, October 1.
We left camp at an early hour and traveled down the river 14 miles in the forenoon and 8 in the afternoon. We found a good road and grass plentiful.
Tuesday, October 2.
We broke camp at 7 in the morning and soon after left the river and went over a rough, hilly road 12 miles, where we stopped near a small stream and had our lunch. In the afternoon we traveled 7 miles and camped at a spring.
The road was uneven and through a heavy growth of timber. We met with some oak timber on the road today, it being the first we have seen since near the Missouri line.
Wednesday, October 3.
Started early and first traveled up a long hill, or mountain about 6 miles, and thence 5 miles farther, and finding no water we halted. In the afternoon we traveled 11 miles, where we found good water and camped. The country through which we have traveled today is well timbered.
Thursday, October 4.
Broke camp at 7 o’clock in the morning and traveled 15 miles in the forenoon and halted at Little Goose Lake. We traveled 4 miles in the afternoon, when we found a bountiful supply of good grass and water and camped.
Friday, October 5.
We traveled 14 miles and camped at Feather Lake, it being the source of the north fork of Feather River country appears to be nearly all very heavily timbered.
Saturday, October 6.
We traveled 6 miles through a dense forest and reached a branch of Feather River; then traveled down the river 6 miles, where we came into a large meadow; thence down along the meadow 5 miles and camped. A branch of Feather River passes through this meadow and it is known as the Feather River Meadow.
Sunday, October 7.
Traveled down the river 2 miles and camped.
Monday, October 8.
It was thought by many of the company that it might be practical to follow the river down to the Feather River mines, and thus save much time and travel in avoiding the long, circuitous route by the way of the Sacramento valley and Lassen’s Ranch, and consequently, six of us started in the morning with about two days’ rations, pursued a southerly course through the mountains and in six miles of travel came to a small stream. We then crossed a mountain ridge about 9 miles and came into a fine bottom prairie 8 miles in length with a small stream passing through the center. We went down the valley three miles, built a fire by the side of a large pine log, and ate our supper. The meal finished we laid ourselves down for the night—Indian fashion—keeping one at a time of the party on watch during the night to give the alarm should any Indians make their appearance. We discovered fresh Indian signs in the little valley today.
Tuesday, October 9.
The morning was cool and very foggy. We started as soon as it was fairly light, and went on down the little valley to the southern end, where the stream enters a deep, high canyon with high precipitous mountains on both sides. We traveled down the canyon about one mile farther and found the mountains so extremely rough, we became convinced that it would be an impossibility to travel through them with mules and horses. We gave up the expedition and started for camp, where we arrived about one o’clock very much fatigued.
We did not move our camp today.
Wednesday, October 10.
Traveled 10 miles in the forenoon and 8 miles in the afternoon and camped on Deer Creek.
Thursday, October 11.
A part of the night was rainy, which was not very agreeable, as we have not had our tents set for a long time, or since we left Raft River. We traveled 10 miles in the forenoon and halted at a spring where there was no grass. In the afternoon we went on 8 miles farther and camped at a spring. No grass.
Friday, October 12.
We started at one o’clock at night and traveled over a rough road through a dense forest 10 miles and halted, where we found water one-half mile north of the road—down a steep mountain—but no grass.
Started again at 8 o’clock and after traveling six miles we emerged from the dense forest through which we have traveled for several days past, and came into a very barren country. Went five miles farther and halted, with neither grass nor water.
In the afternoon we traveled nine miles and camped on Antelope Creek, one mile south of the road. The country through which we have traveled today is extremely rough and barren. (Distance, 30 miles.)
Saturday, October 13.
Break camp in the morning and after three miles of travel we entered the Sacramento valley—the valley which we have so long wished to see. Traveled eight miles farther and halted on Deer Creek.
In the afternoon we passed Lassen’s Ranch and camped on the bank of the Sacramento River. (Distance, 17 miles.)
The full distance from where we left the old trail at Winnemucca on the Humboldt to this place, as kept by me, is 466 miles; and since we left Independence, Mo., 2,130 miles.
Sunday, October 14.
Moved our camp down the river one mile and camped again.
Monday, October 15.
We did not move our camp today.
Tuesday, October 16.
We traveled down the Sacramento 23 miles and camped on a creek. We have found fine grass since we entered this valley.
Wednesday, October 17.
We traveled 24 miles down the river and crossed Feather River and camped on the southern bank.
We are now very near Feather River mines, which we were told we could reach in 180 miles from the forks of the roads on the Humboldt at Winnemucca. Instead, as per my account, which I believe is very nearly correct, the distance is 514 miles as we have traveled it.
We left the Humboldt River, September 14, and reached here October 17, being 33 days on the “Greenhorn’s Cutoff,” as it is now commonly known. Probably nearly one-half of the immigrants came by this route.
Thursday, October 18.
We remained encamped here today, endeavoring to make some division of the property of the Granite Stateand California Mining and Trading Company, but did not agree upon any plan that was satisfactory to a majority.
Friday, October 19.
A division of the stock—cattle, mules and horses—was effected in the forenoon, and some of us went up to the mines in the afternoon. A portion of the members appeared dissatisfied with the division. We had but few cattle left and they were very thin and in poor condition. Many of our mules and horses had died, and were left on the road; and those that were alive were nearly all seemingly worn out and of but little value.
The Granite State and California Mining and Trading Company was this day dissolved by a unanimous vote of its members.
It would have been dissolved long before it reached California had it not been for the beef cattle, which were the means of holding it together. They were their principle dependence for food, and it was not practical to divide them among small squads, as they would have been of very little benefit to them.
When we entered the Sacramento valley we had but three or four young cattle and they were so very poor that they could scarcely travel. They constituted our entire stock of provisions.
Two or three gross errors were committed by the managers before we left Boston, which were the cause, in great part, of the great length of time consumed on the road. First, the company should not have consisted of more than ten members, and it should not have been a