POSTSCRIPT.

Ille Deo plenus, tacitâ quem mente gerebat,Effudit dignas adytis è pectore voces:“Quid quæri, Labiene, jubes?—an liber in armisOccubuisse velim potiùs, quàm regna videre?An sit vita nihil, sed longam differat ætas?An noceat vis ulla bono?—Fortunaque perdatOppositâ virtute minas,—laudandaque velleSit satis, et nunquam successu crescat honestum?Scimus; et hoc nobis non altiùs inseret Ammon.Hæremus cuncti Superis, temploque tacente,Nil facimus non sponte Dei: nec vocibus ullisNumen egit: dixitque semel nascentibus auctorQuicquid scire licet; steriles nec legit arenasUt caneret paucis, mersitque hoc pulvere verum.Estne Dei sedes, nisi terra, et pontus, et aër,Et cœlum, et virtus? Superos quid quærimus ultrà?Juppiter est quodcunque vides, quocumque moveris!Sortilegis egeant dubii, semperque futurisCasibus ancipites: me non oracula certum,Sed mors certa facit: pavido, fortique cadendum est.Hoc satis est dixisse Jovem.” Sic ille profaturServatâque fide, templi discedit ab aris,Non exploratum populis Ammona relinquens.Lucan, lib. ix. v. 564.

Ille Deo plenus, tacitâ quem mente gerebat,

Effudit dignas adytis è pectore voces:

“Quid quæri, Labiene, jubes?—an liber in armis

Occubuisse velim potiùs, quàm regna videre?

An sit vita nihil, sed longam differat ætas?

An noceat vis ulla bono?—Fortunaque perdat

Oppositâ virtute minas,—laudandaque velle

Sit satis, et nunquam successu crescat honestum?

Scimus; et hoc nobis non altiùs inseret Ammon.

Hæremus cuncti Superis, temploque tacente,

Nil facimus non sponte Dei: nec vocibus ullis

Numen egit: dixitque semel nascentibus auctor

Quicquid scire licet; steriles nec legit arenas

Ut caneret paucis, mersitque hoc pulvere verum.

Estne Dei sedes, nisi terra, et pontus, et aër,

Et cœlum, et virtus? Superos quid quærimus ultrà?

Juppiter est quodcunque vides, quocumque moveris!

Sortilegis egeant dubii, semperque futuris

Casibus ancipites: me non oracula certum,

Sed mors certa facit: pavido, fortique cadendum est.

Hoc satis est dixisse Jovem.” Sic ille profatur

Servatâque fide, templi discedit ab aris,

Non exploratum populis Ammona relinquens.

Lucan, lib. ix. v. 564.

POSTSCRIPT.

Itmay be satisfactory to his Employers and to the Public, to receive some further account of Mr. Horneman, on termination of the travels more immediately the subject of his Journal.

By a letter from Mr. Horneman, dated at Tripoly, August 19, 1799, it appears, that on coming to Mourzouk, the end of October, 1798, he was informed that a caravan was preparing to set out for Soudan in three divisions, of which the first was to depart in three days after his arrival. The period fixed for departure of the last division, allowed time for the necessary preparations, and Mr. Horneman had intended to proceed with it on a journey to the Agades and Cashna; but informations he afterwards received induced him to alter his purpose. He was told that the caravan was likely to meet with obstruction or attack in passing through a country of the Tuaricks, then at war with Fezzan; and he observed that the caravan consisted wholly of black traders, from whose intercourse or connection he was not likely to derive either useful consequence or patronage, which might facilitate his friendly reception with the Moors of interior Africa. These and other circumstances induced him to forego the present opportunity, and with the less regret, as, at no distant period, a great caravan was expected from Bornou, with which, on its return, he might travel to the greatest advantage. Whilst remaining at Mourzouk, himself and his servant Frendenburgh were seized with the country fevers: Horneman recovered, but his servant died.

On the re-establishment of his health, Horneman found that some months yet must elapse before the caravan could be expected from Bornou: and in the interval of public resort from the arrival or passage of the caravans, Mourzouk affording no further objects of curiosity or interest, he determined to proceed to Tripoly, for the purpose of transmitting to the Committee of the African Association, such intelligence as he had hitherto collected in their service. He arrived at Tripoly, after a journey of two months, about the middle of August; transacted the business he had in view, and on the 1st of December, 1799, set out on his return to Mourzouk, where he arrived January 20th, 1800.

Two letters from Mourzouk have been since received, and at date of writing the last, Mr. Horneman was onthe eve of setting out with the caravan for Bornou; and with intention from that remote kingdom to prosecute further discoveries to the westward, and in the heart of Africa.

The letters from Mourzouk are as follow:

“I left Tripoly the 1st of December, 1799, and arrived here (the capital of Fezzan) January 20th, 1800, after a safe and good journey, though protracted and slow. I am in the best health, and with fair probability of its continuance.

“The route from hence to Soudan, is not yet secure enough for me to undertake proceeding by way of the Agades.

“There is now at this place, a Shereef of Bornou, a man of sense, and very much considered by the Sultan of that country. I have made him my friend, and it is in his company I shall depart fromthis place about the 15th of March for Bornou, whence in the months of August or September, I think to reach Cashna, distant from Bornou about fifteen days journey.

“I shall write as often as opportunity offers, that at least some letters may arrive for your information, and the tranquillity of my family.

“I remain, with great esteem,

“Sir,

“Your most obedient,

“FREDERICK HORNEMAN.”

Right Hon. Sir Joseph Banks, K. B. President of the Royal Society, &c.

“Our caravan is on the point of setting off for Bornou, myself shall join it in the evening.

“Being in an excellent state of health, perfectly inured to the climate, sufficiently acquainted with the manners of my fellow-travellers, speaking the Arabic language, and somewhat of the Bornou tongue, and being well armed and not without courage, and under protection of two great Shereefs, I have the best hopes of success in my undertaking.

“The Soudan caravan left this place about a month ago; I did well not to join it, as some time past a number of Tibbo were seen hovering, with an intention of attacking that caravan.

“Being the first European traveller undertaking so long a journey in this part of the world,I will not put my discoveries to the hazard, by exposing myself to the casualties of long and unnecessary residence and delays in any one place, and propose staying no longer at Bornou than till the month of September, when I shall proceed to Cashna with the great caravan, which always about that time of the year sets out from Bornou for Soudan.

“I cannot yet decide on my further procedure on leaving Soudan, or Cashna, but you may depend on my best intentions and wishes to give full satisfaction to the Society.

“Consider this letter as the last for this year, or perhaps as the last before my arrival at some port on the coast of Africa. March the 24th I sent a long letter from Tripoly, and being by a good opportunity, have no doubt of its arriving safe.[12]

“In addition to what I stated in my letter of the 24th of March, I have to observe, that in the small-pox, the application used here to preserve the eyes of children, consists of what they termsamsuc, (tamarinds,) andzurenbula zigollan, (onions,) and this with good effect, as I am told.

“I have more particularly made inquiry respecting venereal disorders, and can confirm what I before wrote, that salts and coloquintida, (in Arabichandal) are specific remedies for that disease in this country, and used in the manner I described.

“From every information I can collect, the natives of Fezzan are not susceptible of venereal infection more than once in their lives. It is singular, that notwithstanding there is a great difference as tothe nature of this disease, between poxes brought here by the caravan from Soudan, and by those from Tripoly and Cairo, yet never (or at least very seldom,) can a man get these two sorts one after the other in the course of his life.

“Some days past I spoke to a man who had seen Mr. Brown in Darfoor; he gave me some information respecting the countries he travelled through, and told me, that the communication of the Niger with the Nile was not to be doubted, but that this communication before the rainy season was very little in those parts; the Niger being at the dry period reposing, ornon fluens.

“Not long ago, the same custom was observed at Bornou as in ancient times at Cairo, ‘a girl very richly dressed, was thrown into the river Niger.’

“Comparing my enquiries as to Soudan, and its communication with the western and south-western coasts of Africa, it must lay generally by the way of Nyffé and Jerba, and be twelve times greater than that between Fezzan and Soudan.

“I recommend myself to your remembrance, and assuring you of my great esteem, am

“Sir,

“Your most obedient,

“FREDERICK HORNEMAN.”

Right Hon. Sir Joseph Banks, K. B. President of the Royal Society, &c.

Mr. Horneman, previous to setting out for Bornou, had availed himself of the intimacies he had formed with intelligent pilgrims and merchants of the Egyptian caravan, and with others at Mourzouk, who were natives of, or had traded to, different regions of Africa, to collect every possible information respecting the countries he was about to visit; and, together with his Journal, transmitted the following result of his enquiries.

FOOTNOTES:[12]It never came to hand.

FOOTNOTES:

[12]It never came to hand.

Westwardfrom Fezzan, and to the south and south-west, the country is inhabited by the Tibbo, who command also the country from Fezzan towards Egypt, from which it is said to be separated by a large desert. The nearest inhabited places north of Tibbo are Augila and Siwah. On the south they are bounded by wandering Arabs; and on the west beyond Fezzan, by the dominions of the Tuaricks.

The Tibbo are not quite black; their growth is slender; their limbs are well turned; their walk is light and swift; their eyes are quick, their lips thick, their nose is not turned up, and not large; their hair is not very long, but less curled than that of the Negroes. They appear to have much natural capacity, but they have too few opportunities of improving it, being surrounded by barbarous nations, or Mahometans. Their intercourse with the Arabs, to whom they convey slaves, has probably corrupted them; they are accused of being mistrustful, treacherous, and deceitful. The Fezzanians do not travel singly with them, for they are afraid of being surprised andmurdered at the instigation of the company with whom they travel. The language of the Tibbo is spoken with extraordinary rapidity, and has many consonants, particularly the L and S. They number thus:

Their cloathing consists of sheep-skins, which they dress with or without the wool; the former for winter, the latter for summer; but the inhabitants of the principal places, or others, when they go to Fezzan, clothe themselves like the Burmuans, in large blue shirts; their head is wrapt in a dark blue cloth in such a manner, that their eyes only are seen. Their weapons are a lance about six feet long, and a knife from fifteen to twenty inches long, which they carry on their left arm, the sheath being fastened to a ring of leather about three inches wide, which they bear on their wrist.

The Tibbo are divided into several tribes, the principal of which are, the Tibbo of Bilma, whose chief resides at Dyrke, about one day’s journey from Bilma. This tribe is a good deal mixed, having established itself forcibly among the Negroes who lived in that district: to this day, the inhabitants of Bilma are mostly Negroes; in Dyrke, on the contrary, they are Tibbo. This tribe carries on a commerce between Fezzan and Burnu, and apparently with great safety to themselves; for they travel in small companies of six or eight men; but on account of their bad character, the slaves of either sex, from Burnu, who have been freed, do not return withthem, as the poor people are afraid of being plundered and sold again, or murdered by them.

The religion of the Tibbo of Bilma, is the Mahometan; but it is said they hold it very cheap.

The tribe of the Tibbo Rschade, or the Rock Tibbo, is so called from their houses being built under rocks, and they frequently live even in caves, before which they build huts of rushes in a very coarse manner, for their summer residence. The chief of this tribe lives in Abo; next to which Tibesty is the largest place. The Tibbo Rschade go in multitudes to Fezzan, at which time they clothe themselves like the Tuarick; however, I have seen several wearing their sheep-skins. This tribe is reported to be good Mahometans.

The Tibbo Burgu are said to be still Pagans: the district which they inhabit, abounds in dates, corn, and grass.

A company of Fezzanians having this year been plundered by some of the people of Burgû, as they were travelling from Bergami to Mourzouk, the sultan of Fezzan sent a small army into their country: it consisted of thirty-two men on horseback, seventy Arabs on foot, and about two hundred Tibbos of the Rschade tribe. The Arabs went from Mourzouk into Gatron, fifty-four miles south of that place; to Fegherie thirty-three miles south-south-east of Gatron; then to Abo seven days, and Tibesty three days, in an easterly direction; then to Burgu eighteen days, (reckoning a day’s journey eighteen miles.) They stole about two hundred people, the greatest part of whom were sold in a treacherous manner.

The women of the Burgu tribe, wear their hair in plaits, which hang down from their heads, but the hair on the fore-part of their heads is cut off. The girls are accused of becoming pregnant by their brothers. The slave of one of my friends, who spoke the Tibbo language, assured me, that he had questioned a young woman who was with child, and that she did not deny it.

Farther towards the east lies Arna, the principal place of another Tibbo tribe, at the distance of five or six days.

South-south-west of Augila dwell the Febabo, who are exposed to the yearly depredations of the Arabs of Bengasi, who go out with the Arabs of Augila, to steal men and dates; and for that purpose, they convey with them several hundred camels.

The distance to Febabo was stated to me by the Augilarians to be ten days journey, (twenty-one miles per day,) and that during the first six days no water is to be found. The most southerly of the Tibbo tribes are the Nomadic Tibbo, who live in theBahr-el-Gasel, which is said to be a long and fruitful valley, seven days journey from Bergami northward.

Thewest and south of Fezzan is inhabited by the Tuarick, a mighty people, who border south-west on Burnu; south on Burnu, Soudan, and Tombuctoo; eastward on the country of the Tibbo and Fezzan; northward on part of Fezzan, and the Arabs who live behind the regions of Tripoly, Tunis, and Algiers; and westward on the great empire of Fez and Morocco, of whom a few coloniesare found in Sockna, (in the dominion of Fezzan), Augila, and Siwah; in which places the language of the Tuarick is the only one spoken by the inhabitants.[13]

The Tuarick are divided into many nations and tribes, who all speak the same language; but, by their colour and manner of living, it is probable that they differ widely in their origin. As I will give only certain informations, on this account I confine myself, in the following relation, to the Tuarick of the nation of Kolluvi and the tribe of Hagara. These are thin in growth, rather tall than short; their walk is swift but firm; their look is stern, and their whole demeanour is warlike. Cultivated and enlightened, their natural abilities would render them, perhaps, one of the greatest nations upon earth. Their character (particularly that of Kolluvi,) is much esteemed. The western tribes of this nation are white, as much as the climate and manner of living will admit. The Kolluvians who reached the region of Asben and conquered Agades, and mixed with the nations, are of different colours; many of them are black; but their features are not like those of Negroes. The Hagara and Matkara are yellowish, like the Arabs; near Soudan there are tribes entirely black. The clothing of this nation consists of wide dark-blue breeches, a short narrow shirt of the same colour, with wide sleeves, which they bring together and tie on the back of their neck, so that their arms are at liberty. They wind a black cloth round their head in such a manner that at a distance it appears like a helmet, for their eyes only are seen. Being Mahometans, they cut off their hair, but leave some on the top of the head, round which those who wear no cap, contrive to fold their black cloth, so that it appears like a tuft on their helmet. Round theirwaist they wear a girdle of a dark colour; from several cords which fall from their shoulders, hangs a koran in a leather pouch, and a row of small leather bags containing amulets. They always carry in their hands a small lance, neatly worked, about five feet long. Above the left elbow, on the upper part of the arm, they wear their national badge, a thick, black or dark-coloured ring, of horn or stone.

Their upper dress is a Soudanian shirt, over which a long sword hangs from the shoulder. The travelling merchants of this nation carry fire-arms; the others use only the sword, the lance, and the knife, which they carry on their left arm, like the Tibbo, but the handle is finely worked; for they have the art of giving to copper as bright a colour as the English artists, and this art they keep very secret.

They carry on a commerce between Soudan, Fezzan, and Gadames. Their caravans give life to Mourzouk, which, without them, is a desert; for they, like the Soudanians, love company, song and music.

The Tuarick are not all Mahometans. In the neighbourhood of Soudan and Tombuctoo live the Tagama, who are white, and of the Pagan religion. This must have occasioned the report, to which my attention has been called, by several learned men, that there are white Christians in the neighbourhood of Tombuctoo. I am convinced that the fable arises solely from the expressionNazary(i. e. Christians), which the Arabs and Mahometans use in general for unbelievers.

The greatest part of the eastern Tuarick lead a wandering life.A place, for instance, under the government of Hagara consists of about twenty-five or thirty stone houses only; but at the time of their markets (which are said to be very considerable), many hundred men assemble there with their leathern tents.

[Illustration]

Behindthese countries lies Tombuctoo, of which I shall say nothing, as I could not get any well-founded and certain accounts, for there is little intercourse between this region and Fezzan; however, it certainly is the most remarkable and principal town in the interior of Africa.

Eastward from Tombuctoo lies Soudan, Haussa, or Asna; the first is the Arabic, the second is the name used in the country, and the last is the Burnuan name. Of these three names I choose the second, as being the most proper, and understood by the Arabs below Soudan, and all the land southward from Ghaden. The Burnuan name means properly only Kano and Kashna, and the country lying eastward from that region Asna, but incorrectly spoken, it comprehends also Tombuctoo.

As to what the inhabitants themselves call Haussa, I had, as I think, very certain information. One of them, a Marabut, gave me a drawing of the situation of the different regions bordering on each other, which I here give as I received it. (See the Sketch opposite.)

The land within the strong line is Haussa; my black friend had added Asben.

These regions are governed by Sultans, of whom those of Kashnaand Kano are the most powerful; but they all (either by constraint or policy) pay tribute to Burnu, except Cabi or Nyffé, their districts being at too great a distance. Guber pays, moreover, a tribute to Asben. Zamtara is united with Guber; the Sultan of the latter having taken possession of it, killed the Sultan, and sold all the prisoners he could take.

The Haussa are certainly Negroes, but not quite black; they are the most intelligent people in the interior of Africa; they are distinguished from their neighbours by an interesting countenance; their nose is small and not flattened, and their stature is not so disagreeable as that of the Negroes, and they have an extraordinary inclination for pleasure, dancing, and singing. Their character is benevolent and mild. Industry and art, and the cultivation of the natural productions of the land, prevail in their country; and, in this respect, they excel the Fezzanians, who get the greatest part of their clothes and houshold implements from the Soudanians. They can dye in their country any colour but scarlet. Their preparation of leather is as perfect as that of the Europeans, although the manner of doing it is very troublesome. In short, we have very unjust ideas of this people, not only with respect to their cultivation and natural abilities, but also of their strength and the extent of their possessions, which are by no means so considerable as they have been represented. Their music is imperfect, when compared to the European; but the Haussanian women have skill enough to affect their husbands, thereby even to weeping, and to inflame their courage to the greatest fury against their enemies. The public singers are called Kadanka.

Eastwardfrom Haussa are situated the dominions of the Sultan of Burnu (i. e.the city). It appears to be much increased since the time of Leo Africanus, as other regions belong to it, which he considered as independent; for example, Wangara, also Edrisi’s Cauga, &c. belong to it.

The Sultan of Burnu is reckoned the most powerful in that district; all the neighbouring states pay him tribute. He certainly possesses an extensive tract of land, but he gains more by his authority in the unceasing animosity of his neighbours.

The Burnuans are blacker than the Haussanians, and completely Negroes; they are stronger, and very patient of labour; their constitution is in the greatest degree phlegmatic; they are, altogether, much more rude and uninformed than the Haussanians. Their men are fond of women only of a large size; the Soudanians, on the contrary, prefer those of a slender form.

A paste made of flour and flesh is the only food of the Burnuans; the liquor they drink is an intoxicating kind of beer, which is very nourishing. The best natural production of Burnu is copper, which is said to be found in small native pieces. That which is gold in Tombuctoo and Haussa, is answered by copper in Burnu; the value of all their commodities is fixed by pounds of this metal.

Northward from the principal town of that district lies Kanena, which is inhabited by the nation Kojam, so called from their food, which is cow’s milk and beef.

Towards the north-east lies Begarmé, the capital of which is called Mesna. Both these territories are dependants of Burnu. Begarmé is famous for its slave trade, perhaps particularly so, as at that place the greatest number of boys are mutilated.

Southward from Burnu lie Margi and Couga; westward, Ungura, (Wangara); they are under the dominion of governors appointed by the Sultan.

Towardseast by north lies Lussi; by the natives it is called Fiddri, and by the people who dwell eastward, Cougu. The dominions of the Sultan of Fiddri are situated round a lake which bears the same name. This realm was formerly one of the most powerful, now it is considerably diminished, by the treachery of the Sultans of Begarmé and Wadey. The natives live in small huts, which they prefer to houses; they are said to be in a very low degree of civilization. There is not any salt in their country, but they procure it in the following manner: they burn a great heap of straw ofgassab, gather the ashes and put them in a basket, pour water on them, and collect it as it runs through; this water they boil until the salt settles.

Towards the south-east of Fiddri lies Metko, a small independent district in a mountainous country. Eastward lies Wadey, which formerly consisted of several small states, but was conquered by the Arabs, who united and made them one realm. The principal language is Arabic; but above ten other languages are spoken in the district. Wandering Arabs occupy the space from Wadey to Begarmé northward.

Eastward from Wadey lies Darfoor; from whence flows a river, the banks of which are very rich in sugar canes: it runs through Wadey, and falls into the lake Fiddri above-mentioned. I had very different accounts of the circumference of this lake, as in the rainy season it swells to double the extent, which, ordinarily, is from four to eight days journey.

Theriver that was seen by Mr. Park on his journey to Tombuctoo, flows southward from Haussa. It waters Nyffé and Cabi, where it is called Julbi; and runs eastward into the district of Burnu, where it takes the name of Zad, which means the great water; in some parts of Haussa, it is called Gaora, or the great water.

All the Burnuans and Haussans whom I questioned about the distant regions of this river, agreed in telling me, “that it ran through the land of Majies, (i. e.Heathens;) by Sennaar: others affirmed that it passes Darfoor, in its course eastward, and flows to Cairo, being one stream with the Egyptian Nile.”

A native of Egypt from Osuit, who had travelled several times to Darfoor, and southward from that place to collect slaves, and lately returned through Wadey, Fiddri, and Begarmé, to Fezzan, informed me, that the river calledBah-el-Abiad, is this river. I could get no intelligence about a great inland lake, although I made every possible inquiry.

Besides these two great rivers here described, there are seven small streams in Haussa, which fall into the Julbi near Berva. Northward from Burnu, there is a river which disappears amongthe mountains, and is said to rush into the earth. All these rivers are very low in the dry season, and swell amazingly during the rainy season. The breadth of the Zad was given me for one mile, (others said two); but in the rainy season, the breadth is said to be a day’s journey, (i. e.eight hours). The Budumas always keep themselves in the middle of this stream; they are a very savage, heathenish nation.

These few informations are the best that I have been able to collect, on the interior of Africa. In this relation, I pass over men with tails, without necks, and without hair, without land, and living only on the great sea. It would be an easy matter for me to write you many letters on the interior state of Africa; but I might thereby convey information inaccurate or untrue. Besides, am I not returning to England? and if I do return, should I not reserve something new and interesting to plead my excuse for returning?

If I do not perish in my undertaking, I hope in five years, I shall be able to make the Society better acquainted with the people, of whom I have given this short description.

1798.

“Aftera journey of eleven days from Siwah, four of which we travelled eighteen hours each day, through a desert, we arrived at Augila, a small miserable town belonging to Tripoly; and after a journey of sixteen days more, we reached Temissa, the first village of Fezzan. Seven of these sixteen days, I was passing a black rocky desert, certainly the worst of all routes in the world; and which has doubtless been formed by some volcanic revolution. It is called Harutsch, and extend very far to the south-west.

“From Temissa, I came by way of Zuila, Tuila, and Tragan, to Mourzouk, (which is also called Fezzan, and by the people of Burnu,Zela). Mourzouk is situated in 25° 54′ 15″ north latitude.

“With regard to the interior of Africa, I have made all the inquiries possible, and will send you the result of them by the first opportunities. Accept for the present the following notices on that subject.

“The river you call Niger—in Soudan,Gulbi, orGaora; in Burnu,Zad; is a very large river, into which fall more than twelve other rivers. It comes from Tombuctoo, as I am told, runs to the south of Haussa (or Soudan), in the empire of Burnu; here it takes a more southern direction, and falls (at least I could not find a single man who said to the contrary), south of Darfoor into the Nile. There is another river coming from Darfoor, which passes by Wadey and Metko, and terminates in a large lake calledFiddri,in a kingdom called by the inhabitants Fiddri; by the people to the east of them,Cougu; and by those on the west,Lussi. The lake of Fiddri is four days in circumference, but in the time of the rains much more extensive, inundating the surrounding country, which, after the waters are withdrawn, is sown and cultivated.

“Near toMesna, the capital of Bergamé, is another large river; but it is considerable only in the rainy season. Bahr of Gazelles, orWad-el-Gazelles, is not a river, but a long and fertile valley, inhabited by Nomadian Tibbo, whose houses are made of skins.

“Burnuis the most powerful kingdom in the interior of Africa. The next to it is the sultan ofAsben, who resides at Agades. The kings of the countries of which Haussa consists, all pay tribute to Burnu; these areKashna,Daura,Keeno,Sofau,Noro,Nyffé,Gaauri,Cabi,Guber, (Zanfara belongs to Guber.) Kashna pays every year 100 slaves, &c. Some of them pay to Burnu and Asben. The king of Asben with the greatest part of his nation are Tuaricks of the tribeKolluvi. Many of the Tuaricks near to Tombuctoo, are white; and another tribe near to Burnu, are also white, like the Arabs of the northern coast of Africa.

“Begarmé pays tribute to Burnu;Ungura, (doubtlessWangara, Leo. Afr.) andCougu, are governed by officers of that sultan.

“There is a general opinion of all Burnu and Fezzan people, that Burnu and Fezzan, according to our manner of speaking, lie under the same meridian. Burnu is distant from Kashna 15 days, by travelling very slow 20 fisturnees, or about 330 English miles. Fiddri from Burnu E by N 25 days. The people of Fiddri have no salt in their country, but what they prepare from straw ashes.

“A great part of the people ofWadey, together with their king, are Arabs.

“In the direction of south by west from Augila, distant ten days, or about 200 miles, are theFebabo, and some days more to the south theBirgu, nations of the Tibbo, whose country is very fine and fertile: they are said to be Pagans. It is singular, that the people of Augila, in speaking of these tribes, make much the same comparison which Herodotus (Melpom. c. 183.) does, when speaking of the EthiopianTroglodytæ, hunted by the Garamantes, ‘that their language is like the whistling of birds.’

“The most interesting nation of Africa, is theTuarick. (Leo Afr. calls themTerga,طرجي.) They are in possession of all the country between Fezzan, Gadames, the empire of Morocco, Tombuctoo, Soudan, Burnu, and the country of the Tibbo. They are divided into several nations, of which theKolluviin Asben, and theHagaranear to Fezzan, are the chief.

“Christians and tailed men, I suppose, never will be found in the interior of Africa. The Mahometans callNazari(which is properly the name for Christians) not the Christians only, but also every other people who are not of their religion. Of tailed men I heard no accounts, except from one person, (but not atestis fide dignissimus,) who placed them ten days south of Kano; he called themYem Yem, and said that they were cannibals. In ten months I shall be near to that direction.

“I shall now, Sir, conclude this letter, which I hope will find you in good health. I am, &c. &c.

“FREDERICK HORNEMAN.”

FOOTNOTES:[13]I have given further particulars on this subject in the account of my journey, from Cairo to Fezzan.

FOOTNOTES:

[13]I have given further particulars on this subject in the account of my journey, from Cairo to Fezzan.

GEOGRAPHICAL ILLUSTRATIONSOFMR. HORNEMAN’S ROUTE;ANDADDITIONS TO THE GENERAL GEOGRAPHYOF AFRICA.BYMAJOR RENNELL.

CONSTRUCTIONOF THEGEOGRAPHY OF MR. HORNEMAN’S EXPEDITIONIN AFRICA.

Inthe discussion of the construction of this Geography, I shall confine myself, as much as possible, to general statements; reserving more particular details to a future time, when more materials may arrive: for it is to be observed that although Mr. Horneman has transmitted much valuable matter, yet that it is not altogether of the kind required for the construction of mathematical geography. Fortunately, however, the observations of Mr. Browne and others, enable me to derive more advantage from those of Mr. Horneman, than could have been obtained from them, alone.

The geographical positions of Cairo, Alexandria, and Fezzan, have undergone some small change in the present maps,[14]in consequence of recent, and it may be supposed, more accurate information. Cairo is placed 2 min. and Alexandria 13, more to the west, in consequence of the French observations: and Mourzouk, thecapital of Fezzan, 39 G. miles more to the south-east, on a general result of the authorities; amongst which Mr. Horneman’s is allowed its due weight. Some other trifling changes have been made, in the positions of Siwah, and of El Bareton, orParætonium: but none of them are more than shades of difference, in respect of the geography at large.

The chief alteration is that of Mourzouk, which, by the former accounts, was said to liedirectly southfrom Mesurata: and this alteration is grounded on the line of distance of Mr. Horneman, which does not allow of so great an interval between Egypt and Fezzan, as that position requires, by nearly 25 G. miles; which after all, is no great proportion, in more than 800. It is conceived that Mr. Horneman’stime, although kept in a coarse way, ought still to be preferred to the mere report of the bearing from Mesurata, on a distance of seventeen or eighteen journies.

I shall begin by tracing in detail the route of Mr. Horneman from Egypt to Fezzan, dividing it into four parts: 1. From Cairo to Siwah: 2. Siwah to Augila: 3. Augila to Fezzan: and 4. Remarks on the position of Mourzouk.

Mr. Horneman’s time may be taken atabout123 hours,[15]which at 2,05 G. miles, the ordinary caravan rate, reduced to direct distance, is equal to 252 G. miles. If taken at 2½ B. miles per hour, which is the ordinary road distance, with an allowance of ¹⁄₂₀ for inflexions,(the Desert routes are remarkably straight,) we have 255. Now, Mr. Browne’s route, along the sea coast from Alexandria, and thence inland from the neighbourhood ofParætonium, gives about 259½, or 6½ more than the lowest of these calculations; 4½ more than the highest. Mr. Browne’s rout lay first along the coast, 75½ hours; from whence he made a course of about S 19 W (true) 62¼ hours, to Siwah, in the parallel of 29° 12′ by observation. Considering the sinuosities of the coast, which he kept to, almost the whole way, perhaps no more than 144, or 145 G. miles, ought to be allowed in direct distance.

His station on the coast, at about 20 miles east of Parætonium, should be in lat. 31° 7′, according to M. D’Anville; so that the bearing of S 19 W cuts the parallel of Siwah, in longitude 26° 24′: and my former position of it, in the Geography of Herodotus, p. 574, is 26° 21′ 30″. And as Mr. Horneman does not profess to be perfectly accurate in his account of the time, (doubtless because he had lost his papers) I shall adopt the position given byMr. Browne; but which differs, as has been shewn, only 4½ miles from the other.

It is proper to be remarked, that the people of Siwah, report the distance of Cairo, from that place, to be twelve journies only: but it becomes necessary to inquire what kind of journies these are, in order to turn this, and other reports of the same kind to use. These journies then, are meant for those of light travellers, going few in number together; and not of caravans, where, amongst a number of camels, there must of course be some of slow pace, (to which the whole caravan must, of necessity, conform,) not to mention the increased number of delays by accidents. The people of Siwah reported the length of the following journies, which are in point:

A mean of these, gives about 20,6 per day; the journies to Charje and Faiume giving 19⅔, the others 21½.[16]As Siwah lies directly between Derna and the Greater Oasis, we have one line of 26 days, pretty satisfactorily determined in point of distance, and here the result is 20,6 also. Twelve such days would give only 247, of course, for the distance between Cairo and Siwah: so that a rate of 21½ is required. Pliny, lib. v. c. 9, reports twelve journies between Memphis and Ammon, requiring a rate of 21 per day.

There is yet another statement of the distance, and that is, fifteen ordinarycaravanjournies, taken at 16¼ or 16½. The result is 247½; about equal to the 12 days of light travelling.

Possibly, I have taken the distance rather too high, at 259½; but I know not how to do away Mr. Browne’s line from the neighbourhood of Parætonium, considering that Mr. Horneman must have givenhistime from recollection. At all events, Siwah cannot be many miles out, in its longitude; but whilst the longitudes of the places on the sea coast remain in a state of uncertainty, one is not likely to get nearer the truth.

Mr. Browne appears to have been 17 days from his station in lat. 28° 40′, and not far to the SW of Siwah, to Alexandria. A rate of 15⅓ miles is the result; but Mr. Browne being exceedingly ill, the whole way, it is most probable that his attendants relaxed in their speed.

Mr. Horneman’s time from Siwah to Augila is 87½ hours,[17]which, at 2,05 G. miles, give 179,35: but taken on the road distance at 2½ B. miles, as before, 181½. Taken on Horneman’s 11meandays, at 16½, it is also 181½. The Arabian geographers reckon it 10 days, implied of 19 G. miles each, equal to 190. Herodotus also allows 10 days between Ammon and Augila.

It is certain, that Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS. allow 13 days by the route of Gegabib (the Valley of Dates), which, by Mr. Browne’s information, lies to the NW of Siwah, whilst the ordinary route, by Schiacha,leads by the west; but we can hardly suppose that the northern road is two days farther about than the other. Mr. Horneman, it is true, lost his papers at Schiacha, and may not have recollected the exact account of time during the three first days, to that place. I have accordingly allowed 186, as a mean between Mr. Horneman and Edrisi.

Mr. Horneman could not obtain a satisfactory account of the distance between Augila and Bengasi, on the sea coast. Edrisi allows 10 days from Barca; but these, reckoned at 19 each, meet the line from Siwah, in 30° 7′, which gives a bearing of W 18° N from the latter; whereas it seems to be the universal opinion, that they lie nearly in the same parallel.[18]

Delisle and D’Anville go much beyond Edrisi’s distance. The latter allows 215 from Barca, which is very probable: and he may perhaps have allowed it from the relations of modern travellers. I have accordingly adopted it; and it meets the line of 186 from Siwah, in lat. 29° 30′, lon. 22° 50′. In this position it bears about W ½ N from Siwah.

Ptolemy allows 3° 16′ diff. lat. between Derna (Darnis) and Augila, which would place the latter, on our Map, in 29½°. He also makes the line of bearing between Ammon and Augila to be nearly parallel to the sea coast, between Parætonium and Derna; and it is certain, although Ptolemy thought otherwise, that the coast lies much to the north of west.

It may be that the longitudes of the places on the coast of Barca,are too far to the west, in M. D’Anville’s Maps. Lucas appears to reckon Augila 11 days only, from Bengasi.

From Augila to Fezzan, Mr. Horneman’s time is not kept regularly in hours, the whole way; owing, perhaps, to the excessive fatigues he underwent in theHarutschorBlack Desert, in whichwhole daysonly, are given; but these were exceedingly long, being usually from morning till night.

All that could be done, was, to reduce these particular days to hours, and add them to theenumeratedhours in the Journal; whence there results a total of 195 to 196 hours, at the highest calculation: and these, with proper deductions for the badness of the paths, in the Harutsch, may be taken at 395 G. miles in direct distance.[19]

M. Delisle states the distance at about 405, or 10 more than the above result. He probably collected it from the Journals of modern travellers, as the Arabian geographers allow no less than twenty of their journies between Augila and Zuila, which place is about 60 G. miles short of Mourzouk.

I shall here set forth the reports of divers persons, respecting the distance between Cairo and Fezzan; which has been taken above, chiefly on the report of Mr. Horneman: and, when reduced to a straight line comes out 829 G. miles.

Messrs. Browne and Ledyard state the distance to be fifty caravan days; which at 16½, give 825 G. miles.

Edrisi allows forty journies, between Cairo andTamest(Temissa). These, at 19 each, are equal to 760 G. miles: to which, if 73 are added, as Horneman allows, from Temissa to Mourzouk, the total is 833. This route leads through Bahnasa, in the Lesser Oasis; and, by circumstances, near Siwah also; as a river occurs at eight days from Bahnasa. Thence it goes to the south of Augila, and bySeluban, which may be intended for the Plain of Sultin.[20]

It is obvious, that if Augila should lie yet more to the south, or nearer in a line between Cairo and Fezzan, this would lengthen the given line of distance; and that by 10 or 12 miles.

The comparison of the different authorities, then, is as follows:

Thus Horneman’s account falls short of the interval between Cairo and Mourzouk, when the latter is placed in reference to Mesurata, by 25 miles only; and the reported caravan distance falls only four short of Horneman’s. The reports of the Arabian geographers ought not to be put in competition with either.

Mr. Horneman in his Journal transmitted from Tripoly, states the latitude of Mourzouk, by observation, to be 25° 54′ 15″; a parallel so different from the result of the other authorities, that it becomes necessary to examine those authorities, minutely. The reported observation, differs nearly two degrees from the parallel assigned it in the Proceedings of the Association printed in 1798. Without attempting to account for so great an (apparent) error, I shall proceed to adduce the authorities for its parallel, as assumed in the present map.

1. Mr. Beaufoy, from the information of certain Tripoline merchants, has given 17½ journies of the caravan, in a direct southbearing, from Mesurata on the sea coast.[22]These journies are given at 8 hours, or 20 British miles per day: and I allowed for them 15 geographical miles, in direct distance; but I shall now, finding by experience that the paths in the Desert are generally very straight, allow 16½; whence the 17½ days will be found to produce 288¾, or say 289 G. miles. If these miles were entirely difference of latitude, Mourzouk would not be lower than 27° 22′ 2″, as Mesurata is said to lie in 32° 10′.

2. Another authority adduced by the same gentleman, allows 23 days from Tripoly, by the way of Gwarian and Sockna, which turns out much the same as the former result. The distance from Tripoly to Fezzan, through Mesurata, is 24½ days; consequently that by Sockna, is the shortest, although now generally disused, on account of its being unsafe.[23]

The intersection of the two lines of distance from Augila and Mesurata; that is, 395 G. miles from the former, and 289 from the latter, place Mourzouk in latitude 27° 23′; and at 30 G. miles east of the meridian of Mesurata. Consequently, the bearing will be about S. ½ E, instead of south, as reported.

3. Edrisi says, that the distance fromSortto Zuila, is nine journies, which, on his scale of 19 per day, are equal to 171 G. miles: and Abulfeda says that they lie N. and S. from each other. Zuila is a point in Horneman’s route, about 60 G. miles to the E by N or ENE of Mourzouk: and Sort, according to M. D’Anville, lies in about 30° 28′. Consequently, Zuila, if in the same meridian, should be inlatitude 27° 37′, or 14 min. to the N. of Mourzouk. By the construction, Zuila bears about S 7° W from Sort, which, in respect of the difference of latitude, is much the same thing: and hence, Mourzouk ought not to be to the south of 27° 23′, or thereabouts.

4. Ledyard was told, that Augila laywestfrom Siwah; and Wadan, (or Zala,) in the way to Fezzan, WSW from Augila. Horneman gives much the same idea; saying that they went W by S from Augila, at setting out. Unfortunately, Mr. Horneman omits to state the distance between Fezzan and Tripoly, although he travelled it.

5.Zala, (called alsoWadan,[24]) is said by Edrisi, page 40, to be nine days SE from Sort; and midway between Augila and Zuila; that is ten days from both.[25]A glance at the map will shew how utterly improbable it is, that Mourzouk should be below the parallel of 26°, considering its relative situation to Wadan and Zuila.

Lastly, if it be admitted that Fezzan is the country of theGaramantes, (and I know not where else to look for it, according to the ancient descriptions,) then, its distance from the sea coast, as stated by Strabo, p. 835, at nine or ten days journey, agrees exactly, if reckoned toGarama, the ancient capital. Pliny confirms it strongly, by placing the Garamantes beyond theMons Ater, (of which more,under the articleHarutsch,) which will be proved clearly to mean the rocky Desert ofSouda, between Fezzan and Mesurata.

It should be remarked, that this alteration in the position of Mourzouk, which is about 39 miles to the SE of its position in the map of 1798, does not, in any material degree, affect the interval of space between it and Tombuctoo.[26]

General Remarks on the Countries, in the Line of Mr. Horneman’s Route.

Ishallnext proceed to offer some geographical, and other, remarks, on certain of the subjects that present themselves in and about the line of Mr. Horneman’s route; as, 1. TheBahr-bela-ma, andValley of Mogara. 2.Siwah. 3. TheLesser Oasis. 4. TheValleysofSchiachaandGegabib. 5.Augila. 6. TheHarutsch. 7.FezzanandGadamis.

The termBahris well known to signify (in Arabic) an expanse of water, whethersea,lake, orriver: andBahr-bela-ma, a hollow space that is supposed to have contained them: in other words, the sea, lake, or river,without water. In its application to the present subject, it has been understood by some great authorities, to be the ancient bed of a river; and that river, the Nile of Egypt; which they suppose to have quitted its present course, at Benjusef, and, passing through the province of Faiume, and the lake Kairun, entered the sea at the Gulf of the Arabs. Having already given an opinion on this subject, I shall say no more concerning it in this place, than that it is by no means weakened by any thing that has appeared since: that opinion was, “that inancient timesthe bed of theNile lay lower than the province of Faiume:” and it is certain, that the gap, or outlet at Sakkara, isstillabove the level of the Nile.

Mr. Horneman’s observations, added to those of General Andreossy, and of Mr. Browne, throw some further light on the course of thehollowbed, or channel in question.

It appears that the General, as well as Mr. Browne,[27]came to the Natron Valley at about 32 G. miles to the westward of Terané: and that the General also found, adjacent to it, on the west, separated only by a narrow ridge, a second and larger valley, which the Arabs nameBahr-bela-ma; and alsoBahr-el-farigh, which signifies theemptyriver. These he found to run parallel to each other, in a direction of about NNW ½ W and SSE ½ E, for about 30 miles; and without any appearance of termination, either way. The Natron Valley, he reckons 2½ French leagues, or about 6½ G. miles, in breadth; the other, 3 leagues, or 7¾ such miles; or, both together, from one extreme to the other, more than 14¼. See theMémoires, p. 239, 240, and also the map.

Mr. Horneman, in his way westward from Cairo, passed the Natron Valley, at the distance of about 40 G. miles from Cairo; and, by circumstances, not more than 9 or 10 from the extreme southern part seen by General Andreossy. At the distance of about 8 miles from the Natron Valley hedescended, and came to what he calls the foot of asand hill; but it beingdark, he could not formany idea of the place itself, or of the adjacent country: he however observes, that it will be proper for future travellers to look in this place, for thecourseof theBahr-bela-ma: doubtless, because he found a deep and capacious hollow; but concerning which, he gives no farther intimation. Adverting, therefore, to the description of General Andreossy, I regard thesand hillrather as theridgethat separates the two valleys or hollows, than as the thing Mr. Horneman took it for. He says, that theydescendedthe sand hill, inindescribabledisorder;[28]which seems to imply along, as well as asteepdescent: and, leaving the place, before it was light enough to form a judgment of the nature of it, he only directs the attention of others to it: surely, because it was a hollow tract.

It may be allowed, therefore, that the Bahr-bela-ma and Natron Valleys extend 40 or more G. miles, pointing northward to the Lake Mareotis, or to the Gulf of the Arabs; and on the other hand, towards the quarter of the lake of Kairun; from whence they seem to be less than 30 miles distant.

The four hours of travelling, between the station at the Natron Valley, and the foot of the sand hill, does not ill agree with the ground. The breadth of the Natron Valley, 6½ G. miles, is, reckoning the ascent on the west, equal to 3¼ hours travelling; and General Andreossy says, that he was 40 minutes in descending the slope, to the bottom of the Bahr-bela-ma. (Mem. p. 240.) Here then we have made out nearly the four hours: besides, it is not certain that the hollows may not have been crossed obliquely, by Mr. Horneman.

It appears that M. D’Anville believed the existence of, and has expressed on his map of Egypt, a hollow or valley, extending thewhole way from the lake Kairun, to the neighbourhood of the Gulf of the Arabs. The French, it seems, have never had an opportunity of determining the questions; which appears extraordinary. I shall now proceed to the description of another valley, which may possibly be a branch of the Bahr-bela-ma.

Mr. Horneman states, that the morning on which he left thefoot of the sand hill, he entered the Desert which may be considered as “the natural limit of Egypt.” This Desert extends more than 150 G. miles from east to west: its extent southward, is not known, but it probably borders on the Lesser Oasis. Whether it be a part of that great sandy desert of twelve journies across, between the Greater Oasis and Siwah, Mr. Horneman had no opportunity of knowing; as he remained in uncertainty respecting the course of theUmmesogeirhills, southward.

This Desert, perfectly flat, and covered with shifting sand, is bounded northward by a chain of bare calcareous hills, running nearly east and west, in the line of our traveller’s route. On the side towards the Desert, they are steep, and are bordered by a remarkable valley or hollow, known to extend from theneighbourhoodof the Bahr-bela-ma, to the length of a journey of seven days westward. Its breadth is from one mile, to six; it had much standing water in it, at certain seasons; but when Mr. Horneman saw it (in September 1798,) it had only some small lakes or ponds, at intervals; and in several places, tracts of marshy or swampy land, extending for several miles together. The water of the pools was bitter; but sweet water was found close to them, on digging to the depth of four to six feet. (See above,p. 10.) The caravans in this route, keep along the edge of the valley, availing themselves of itsresources of water, every two or three days; but preferring the sandy path, as being best adapted to the feet of the camels.

How far the valley extends westwards, is not known to us: whether it terminates at the place where Mr. Horneman ascended the hills of Ummesogeir, (which form a continuation of the range of calcareous hills before-mentioned;) or whether it communicates with those valleys, which contain the Greater or Lesser Oasis. Be it as it will, it seems to partake of the nature of those valleys; being situated at the foot of steep calcareous hills, and below the level of the flat Desert beneath them. It is remarked, that the steep sides of all these ranges face the south or west.[29]In one particular, however, this valley of Mogara, differs very widely from those which contain the Oasis, (although it seems very much akin to that ofSchiacha; of which more in the sequel,) in that no water springs up to the surface; to which cause we may probably attribute the absence of such tracts of land, as are denominatedOases. The springs indeed, appear to me, to be a characteristic feature of the Oases.

We learn a curious particular from General Andreossy, whilst speaking of the Bahr-bela-ma. He says, (Mém. sur l’Egypte, p. 246,) that the people of Terané on the Nile, transport from a valley situated three days journey beyond the Bahr-bela-ma, a species ofrushes, which are manufactured into mats at Menouf, in the Delta. The General supposes the place in question to be a continuation of the Bahr-bela-ma, into the interior of Africa; and indeed it may well be, that the valley of Mogara is a branch of the former: separating from it, at, or near, the place where Mr. Hornemancrossed it. The place alluded to by the General, may be aboutBiljoradek, and in one of the swampy tracts spoken of above: or if the three journies are meant fromTerané, as is not impossible, that it will be aboutMogara. At all events, we must regard this valley as the place intended by General Andreossy.

This gentleman’s description of the Bahr-bela-ma is well worthy of attention, but is too long to be inserted here. He found in it, petrified wood, of the same kind with that seen by Horneman, in the adjacent sandy Desert:[30]but both of them remark, that the wood has not any mark of a tool on it, as some have fancifully imagined, and have thence regarded the valley as an ancient bed of the Nile, deserted about the date of the foundation of Memphis.

No doubt the hollow in question very much resembles a water-course, both as to form, and from its having pebbles in it; but where is the body of fresh water that could have scooped it out, or have filled it? General Andreossy reckons it nearly nine British miles in breadth, and exceedingly deep; and the Nile does not at any time carry a body of water, equal to one mile in breadth! What the state of things was, at an earlier period of the world, we know not, but within the reach of history, the Nile appears to have been much of the same bulk, as at present.

But this is not the only difficulty. The province of Faiume, through which the supposed issue of the Nile must have been, is separated from the valley of the Nile, by a continuation of the ridge of hills that forms the western wall of Egypt; and through which, (if I understand the matter right,) the passage to the lake of Kairun, byIllahonandHawara, has been made by art. At all events, thiscanal or passage cannot be regarded as the continuation of the ancient bed of the Nile fromUpper Egyptinto theBahr-bela-ma, because of its confined dimensions: and of course, all idea of the Nile having detached awestern branch, or thrown itself into the bed of the lake of Kairun and Bahr-bela-ma, is done away; for even admitting the continuity of these, the hollow that contains the lake, and also constitutes the province of Faiume, must be regarded as a kind ofcul de sacto the Bahr-bela-ma, whilst the hills by Illahon existed. And hence I took occasion to remark, elsewhere,[31]that it is possible, that the famous work of the lake Moeris, which now forms a kind of enigma amongst the learned, might have been formed by the very act of cutting through a low part of the western wall of Egypt, and letting the water into the hollow space which now contains the lake of Kairun. But had the Nile ever formed its alluvions adjacent to the Gulf of the Arabs, there would surely be some traces of them remaining, either along the shore, or in the sea itself.

It may be remarked, that there are other valleys or hollows along the course of the Nile, almost equally extensive with that of Faiume, but to whose level the Nile is notyetrisen. And here it may not be out of the way to repeat what has been said in another place,[32]that although the Nile in these times, when swoln, flows into the lake Kairun, yet there must have been a time, when its bed was too low to reach it: for it cannot be doubted, that its bed has been gradually rising, by deposition; a necessary effect of the protrusion of the lands of the Delta into the sea: and, of course, that itwill continueto rise.[33]

The progress of the moving sands of Lybia, eastward, into the Bahr-bela-ma, &c. is treated of by General Andreossy, Mem. page 247, and is also well worthy of attention. This movement appears to take place, very generally; and Mr. Horneman remarks, that in their line of course, every obstruction gives rise to a sand hill; but he more particularly remarks a smaller kind of sand hill, formed by the obstruction of the trunks of palm trees; and so high as to leave to the view, nothing more than the topmost branches.

The geographical position of this remarkable place, considered generally, cannot now be questioned; since we possess, in addition to the information communicated by Mr. Browne, that of Mr. Horneman; both in respect of the time employed on his way thither, and of the reports of the natives, concerning its relative position to Cairo, the Oases, Faiume, and Derna: and when it is considered that these new authorities differ from the former ones, by a few minutes of longitude only.

The report of Mr. Horneman is no less favourable to the former idea, of its being theOasis of Ammon; and the remains of the Egyptian structure within it, those of the famed Temple of Jupiter Ammon: the honour of which original discovery is due to Mr. Browne. For, in addition to what may be deemed theinnertemple, Mr. Horneman has viewed the foundations indicated by Mr. Browne, in circumference some hundred paces; and even some remains of the walls themselves, of what may be supposed to have been theincludingtemple; the materials of which are probably existing in the construction of the stone houses of a town, estimated to containa population of six to seven thousand[34]persons. We need no longer to entertain a doubt, founded on the disappearance of the materials of the temple and palace described by the ancients. Besides, on a review of the subject, so many particulars accord with the ancient descriptions; such as the dimensions, and accordance of geographical situation; the fruits, the copious fountains, fertility of soil; and finally, although a negative proof, perhaps one of the strongest circumstances of all, the declaration of the inhabitants, that “no other fertile spot exists in the vicinity; or nearer than the Lesser Oasis.”

A proof of the populousness and affluence of the ancient state of Ammon, exists in the numerous catacombs pointed out to, or visited by, Browne and Horneman: and by the probability that the rocky hill on which the modern town stands, is also full of catacombs. Such are indeed known to exist within the habitations of the people of the neighbouring village of Ummesogeir; which may thence be supposed, notwithstanding its present miserable state, to have been a flourishing appendage to ancient Ammon: and might probably have been theSiropumof Ptolemy.

One particular requires discussion. Mr. Horneman differs very widely from Mr. Browne, in his estimation of the extent of the territory of Siwah. Mr. Browne reckons it six miles by four: but Mr. Horneman acircumferenceof 50 miles. His words are, “a well-watered valley of 50 miles in circuit, surrounded by naked steep rocks.” (Abulfeda also says, that the territory is environedby hills.) Very probably, Mr. Horneman’s idea goes to the whole space inclosed by the hills; Mr. Browne’s to the fertile part of it only; and it must be acknowledged, that the dimensions given by the latter, accord with those of the ancients.

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