CHAP. V.TOULOUSE.
On the following morning, Mr. F⸺, a friend of Mrs. W⸺’s, called upon me, to state the full particulars of the arrangements for my reception into the family of Colonel du B⸺, to whom I was to be introduced on the morrow; and in the evening, this kind lady sent two gentlemen to conduct me to her residence, when I had the pleasure of being introduced to a small circle of her acquaintance.
In the morning, Mr. F⸺ called upon me, in company with Colonel du B⸺, when it was settled, that I was to become an inmate, in the family of the latter, on the following day. These gentlemen did me the favour to settle for my journey with the voiturier, and gave him a severe reprimand for his want of humanity; and I took the opportunity of convincing the soldier’s wife, who was present, of my sense of her kindness.
I now soon found myself happily situated in the house of Colonel du B⸺, with whom I proposed to remain, until the approach of spring might inviteme to pursue my tour, and under the expectation, in the interim, of improving my health, and acquiring a knowledge of the French language. The former point was admirably promoted by the kind attentions, and domestic arrangements, of Madame du B⸺; the latter would not fail to result from so extended a residence in a family wholly unacquainted with English, and where necessity, and the force of habit, must concur in instructing me. I cannot, however, but acknowledge the patient assistance which I received from the whole family; and my views were also promoted by a pretty regular attendance on the lectures delivered at the royal college of this place.
Our domestic circle consisted of M. and Madame du B⸺, their two sons and daughters, with the father and a sister of Madame B⸺. Madame B⸺ was what, in England, we should call a notable woman, who superintended personally the arrangements of housekeeping. The colonel possessed a mechanical taste, which with reading constituted his leading pursuit; he was a hearty feeder, with, however, a supposed indifferent appetite; for instance, he would breakfast, about noon, upon an immense quantity of bread and cold meat, hard dried sausages, or richfromage de cochon, with a large bottle of wine, and afterward complain of a disinclination for his dinner.
But perhaps the more interesting feature of the family group, was Mademoiselle la Sœur. This lady, somewhat advanced beyond the noontide of life, was a diminutive woman, with one eye, and largely attached to the charms oftabac, which contributed to give her voice a strong nasal tone; but in addition to thispenchantfor snuff, she enjoyed also the pleasures of the table; was fond of high-seasoned dishes, onions, garlic, and wine; her converse was of the merry kind; she was fond of whispering into one’s private ear; and with these talents, seemed also wonderfully adapted for sociality, as she cultivated a large circle of acquaintance in the town, and made it a rule to return with a whole budget full of news for our amusement.
Toulouse, in point of extent, is considered the third town in France, but in proportion to that extent, far less populous than many other of its cities: it possesses some good public buildings, as well as modern private houses, but the general appearance is very antiquated; the streets are narrow and dirty, and what is a great annoyance in walking along them, when it rains you are almost sure to be spouted upon from the tops of the houses, in consequence of pipes sticking out to conduct the water towards the middle of the streets.
There are in this city some good squares, particularly the Place Royal, in which are situated the town-house and theatre; the Place St. George; the Place St. Stephen, containing the cathedral; and also the Place de Bourbon, which with its neighbourhood is the more eligible point for the residence of a stranger.
Some of the walks around the town are very fine, but the access to them unpleasant, in consequence of the offensive smells proceeding from the narrow streets in their vicinity; this is particularly the case as you approach the fine bridge over the Garonne.
Lodgings, such as they are, are reasonable, and the necessaries of life, of all kinds, abundant, good, and cheap. The town is supplied with water from the river; this indispensable article being carted about in casks through the streets at all hours. The stranger will also notice a number of asses, which are driven about the town, to supply invalids with their milk.
I declined participating much in the society of the place, but both the French and English residents are sociably inclined. It is not, however, the fashion among the former, to make morning visits, or give dinner parties, but their houses are open for their friends every evening, and on appointed nights they visit in large parties, and amuse themselves with conversation, singing, cards, or dancing.
A theatre was open during a part of the winter, and we had two or three public concerts, as well as a variety of private ones by amateur performers, particularly during the season of the carnival, which finished on the 14th of February, and exhibited all its usual variety of masks, grotesque characters, and buffoonery; these concerts were only given on the Sunday afternoon.
There are a few customs, and points of etiquette, which it may be interesting to notice.
When a stranger arrives at Toulouse, and wishes to enter into society, he leaves his card with the prefect, who, after returning his call, sends him invitations to the public parties, which he gives once or twice in the week, when he has the opportunity of seeing the best company of the place.
On new-years-day, it is the custom (although I believe the same is common to most parts of the continent) to call on all friends, and present the ladies with fruits, toys, trinkets, orbon-bons, under some ingenious deceptions, and which it is generally expected, will be accompanied by a salute; therefore if you have an extensive acquaintance, it is indispensable to set out, at an early hour, loaded with smiles, compliments, and presents.
I scarcely feel competent to speak of the various ceremonies of the Gallican church here, but when an Englishman dies, it is customary to send thefollowing notice, to the various residents from his country, requesting their attendance at the funeral.
“M⸺Vous êtes prié par M⸺ et M⸺ de leur faire l’honneur d’assister à l’inhumation de M⸺ qui aura lieu le ⸺ à ⸺ heure du ⸺. Le convoi sortira de sa maison d’habitation.Pax illi ⸺”
“M⸺
Vous êtes prié par M⸺ et M⸺ de leur faire l’honneur d’assister à l’inhumation de M⸺ qui aura lieu le ⸺ à ⸺ heure du ⸺. Le convoi sortira de sa maison d’habitation.
Pax illi ⸺”
There is only one burial ground for Protestants, at Toulouse, situated at some distance from the city.
Early in February, the news arrived of the death of our late venerable and beloved king; the intelligence was received by the English in this place, with every possible mark of respect, and a public mourning immediately took place.
Soon afterward, the city of Toulouse was thrown into a high state of consternation, in consequence of the assassination of the Duc de Berri; the imaginations of the inhabitants recurred to the sanguinary scenes of the French revolution, in which this town had no small share, and anticipated a return of its horrors. After this event, the following invitation was addressed to the various English residents:
“Eglise reformée de Toulouse. Nos tres chers frères en Jesus Christ.Vous avez tous gémis sur l’horrible attentat commis sur la personne de S. A. R. Monseigneur Le Duc de Berri, attentat qui a privé la France et l’auguste famille des Bourbons, de leur espoir le plus précieux; nous vous invitons à vous rendre vendredi 24 de ce mois, à onze heure du matin, dans le temple, pour exprimer, devant Dieu, la vive douleur que nous en èprouvons.Les Membres du Consistoire.CHABRAND, President, &c. &c. &c.”Toulouse, le 22 Mars, 1820.
“Eglise reformée de Toulouse. Nos tres chers frères en Jesus Christ.
Vous avez tous gémis sur l’horrible attentat commis sur la personne de S. A. R. Monseigneur Le Duc de Berri, attentat qui a privé la France et l’auguste famille des Bourbons, de leur espoir le plus précieux; nous vous invitons à vous rendre vendredi 24 de ce mois, à onze heure du matin, dans le temple, pour exprimer, devant Dieu, la vive douleur que nous en èprouvons.
Les Membres du Consistoire.CHABRAND, President, &c. &c. &c.”
Toulouse, le 22 Mars, 1820.
This city abounds with beggars, many of them objects of real charity; as it is impossible that persons with limited incomes, can afford a sous for each, it is not unusual to give them one, and take change out of it.
The winter proved unusually severe; from the middle of November to the end of December, it continued wet; from this time to the latter part of February, it was excessively cold; and at the end of January, the ground was covered with snow for a fortnight together. For an uninterrupted week, during some part of the twenty-four hours, Fahrenheit’s thermometer stood at from9° to 11° below Zero. The Garonne for the first time for thirty years, was frozen over, the ice being found to the thickness of nine inches. The end of March, and beginning of April, however, became so fine and warm in the middle of the day, as to make walking irksome.
I now began to contemplate breaking up my winter quarters, in order to proceed to Montpellier. On inquiry, I found two modes of conveyance to this place, one by the Grand Canal de Languedoc, the other by diligence; and having made my arrangements for being conveyed by the latter, I prepared, on the 13th of April, to bid adieu to Toulouse.
I must not, however, leave this city, without paying a due tribute of respect to the worthy family with whom I have been resident, whose innumerable acts of kindness, and attention to a whimsical invalid, will ever claim his gratitude.
But let me not exclude my English friends from this expression of feeling. Mrs. W⸺ and Miss S⸺ are, in particular, entitled to my sincerest acknowledgments; and who were not only the first to receive me at Toulouse, but the last to take leave of me. They will ever retain a place in the recollections of a grateful heart.