CHAP. XXIV.MILAN.
On arriving at Milan, we took up our residence at the Croci di Malta, which is one of the most convenient houses in this place for foreigners, as it has an excellent table d’hôte. The next day, Sunday, was exceedingly cold, notwithstanding which, we commenced our examination of this fine old city.
We first visited the magnificent cathedral, built entirely of white marble; to the very top of which we ascended, by a flight of five hundred and twelve steps. But it is better that I should borrow a description of this most noble edifice, than attempt an imperfect one of my own.
“It is situated almost in the centre of the city, and occupies part of the great square; it is of Gothic architecture, and its materials are white marble. In magnitude, this edifice yields to few in the universe. Inferior only to St. Peter’s of Rome; it equals in length, and in breadth surpasses the cathedrals of Florence and St. Paul’s: in the interior elevation, it yields to both; but in its exterior, it exceeds both; in its fretwork, carving, and statues, it goes beyond all churchesin the world, St. Peter’s itself not even excepted. Its double aisles, its lofty arches, the lustre of its walls, its numerous niches all filled with marble figures, give it an appearance novel, even in Italy, and singularly majestic. In the front of the chancel, and almost immediately above the steps, rises on four additional steps the altar, and behind it the choir, in a semicircular form. The pillars of the cathedral of Milan are more than ninety feet in height, and about eighty in diameter. The dimensions of the church at large are as follow: in length, four hundred and ninety feet, in breadth, two hundred and ninety-eight, in interior elevation under the dome, two hundred and fifty-eight, and four hundred in exterior, that is, to the summit of the tower. The pavement is formed of marble of different colours, disposed in various patterns and figures. The number of niches are very great, and every niche has its statue, which, together with those placed on the ballustrade of the roof, are reported to amount to more than four thousand; and many among them are said to be of great merit.
“Over the dome rises a tower or spire; in ascending this, the traveller will observe that the roof of the church is covered with solid blocks of marble, which are connected together by a powerful cement, which possesses not only the durabilityand hardness, but the colour also of the marble itself; so that the eye of the observer scarcely perceives the points and lines in which the joinings are made, and the whole roof appears to be composed of one immense sheet of the finest white, and polished marble. The singularity and uncommon splendour of this roof, cannot perhaps be adequately described. The prospect of the surrounding country, and objects from the summit of this tower, is grand and very extensive; it includes the whole city, and the luxuriant plain of Milan; shews its intersection in every part, with rivers and canals, its beautiful display of gardens, orchards, vineyards, and groves; and its numerous and interesting villages and towns; and extends to the neighbouring Alps, which unite their bleak ridges with the milder, and more distant Appennines, and seem to compose a grand and natural frame, to this picture of beauty and interest. In its materials, the cathedral of Milan certainly surpasses all the churches in the universe, the noblest of which are only lined and coated with marble, while this is entirely built, paved, vaulted, and roofed, with the same substance, and that of the whitest, and most resplendent kind.”
After examining the cathedral, we visited the gardens in the neighbourhood of the Porta Orientale,where there are frequently dancing and a variety of other entertainments, on a Sunday evening, but the day was unfavourable for these diversions. From hence, we extended our walk to Porta Roma along the new boulevards, formed by the Austrians within the last two years, and which are become the fashionable promenade, and drive, of Milan.
The next day was also an unpropitious one; indeed it appears, that the neighbourhood of the Alps has a most unfavourable influence on the climate; and in winter must make it extremely cold and damp. We visited this morning the theatre of La Scala, at the time under repair. Walking over the pit and stage, we took the opportunity of comparing its size, with that of St. Carlos at Naples; at first my friend imagined it smaller, but before we left, he was inclined to think the point doubtful; but it must be recollected, that the estimate was made under very different circumstances, the latter being lighted up and full of company, while the present one was empty, anden dishabille.
We met with many friends at Milan, and spent our time agreeably enough, but from circumstances, were induced to hasten our departure sooner than we intended; in consequence we were prevented from visiting some of the most interesting parts of the city, as the various churches, the coliseumof Napoleon, and the triumphal arch, erected in honour of him, over one of the gates; the lazaretto, the mint, the museum, the minor theatres, and various other places. The city itself, is one of the most intricate I ever met with, the streets so numerous, short, and narrow, that we had never been more perplexed to find our way.
We were induced to leave Milan, as I before remarked, sooner than at first intended; this was in consequence of the difficulty experienced in procuring a satisfactory conveyance to Geneva.
We had flattered ourselves, that we could have made arrangements to accompany some Swiss gentlemen in their voiture, which would have afforded us an opportunity of gaining much agreeable information from them, but in this we were disappointed. As a preparatory measure, a day or two before we proposed to depart, we entered into various negotiations with different vitturenos, all of which we were obliged to conduct with the greatest caution, and which became abortive, from some determination or other to impose upon us.
We had actually engaged one to convey us to Geneva, for a considerable sum, under the full explanation of its being intended to cover the usual expenses of supper, &c. but when he was desired to sign the agreement, he pretended that these necessaries were not to be included.
At length, on Tuesday the 10th, we met a vittureno,who was departing in the morning, with the intention of taking the route of Turin; when viewing the little chance we had of getting any conveyance, which would take the passage of the Simplon for some days, we determined to embrace the opportunity, and immediately entered into an arrangement with him, to convey us to Geneva, resting two days at Turin, bearing our expenses for supper and beds each night, while actually travelling, for which we agreed to pay him four Napoleons and a half each; this as the journey would occupy nine days, we thought a reasonable bargain. The expense of travelling is considered to increase on leaving Italy, and passing through Switzerland, particularly by the way of the Simplon, in consequence of the great number of barriers on that road; but I became convinced from experience, that the real difference of expense, is nothing equal to what the proprietors of the voitures would wish one to suppose. The Swiss drivers appear far more acute than the French or the Italians, for the cunning of the latter is easily detected; while the manners of the former are more sagacious and collected. One in particular, impressed me so strongly with his archness of expression, that my imagination leads me to suppose, if my powers of sight would admit of a use of the pencil, I could at this instant depict his portrait, as correctly as if I had actually seen him.