CHAPTER XXIX.
Preparations for Departure—Bordeaux—Imposition on the English—Greetings from the Women—Mausoleum of Louis XVI.Wednesday, June 1, 1814.Toulouse.
Preparations for Departure—Bordeaux—Imposition on the English—Greetings from the Women—Mausoleum of Louis XVI.
Wednesday, June 1, 1814.Toulouse.
My dear M——,
Herewe are still, but on the point of moving. The orders are actually out, and our route fixed. We start on Saturday, the 4th of June, I suspect on purpose to avoid festivities on that day. On the 10th we hope to be at Bordeaux: 4th, Isle en Jourdain; 5th, Auch; 6th, Condom; 7th, halt; 8th, Castel Jelous; 9th, Langon; 10th, Bordeaux. This will be sharp work for loaded mules, and warm for us all, for the weather is now clearing up, and promises to be hot again.
I am tired of Toulouse, and not sorry to leave it, though the inhabitants continue to be civil and friendly. So indeed they ought to be, as they have made no little money out of us, and have been continually entertained by balls, &c. Since the Duke has been away we have had three balls given by the Adjutant-general, General Byng, and by the aides-de-camp. At last I was, by accident, introduced to a Madame de Vaudreuil. She was it turns out, wife to the son of the old admiral, ouremigréMarquis in England, and your cousin. I was then introduced to the husband, and we had some conversation on family matters. He mentioned his nephew, the aide-de-camp in Ireland, and inquired much after theHochepieds, &c. To-morrow I am to breakfast with them, and you shall hear more. He is a little man, but high, and in repute here.
No events of any consequence have occurred. The only thing at all worth mentioning which I can recollect is a trait of the conduct of the French lower officers of Soult’s army. Two of the officers of the 43rd British rode towards Montauban a few days since, out of their own limits, without a passport. This, though foolish just now, was a venial offence, and committed by many French, who come in here within our line of demarcation. On a bridge near the town our two gentlemen were met by about eight or ten, not gentlemen, but officers of the French garrison there. The latter immediately attacked the two British officers rudely, told them that they ought to know better their own limits, and added at last that if they intended to come again, they advised them to come with their coats off, sleeves turned up, and swords drawn. One man actually went so far as to come behind one of our officers to knock his hat off, that he might get out the white cockade; in short, the two Englishmen were obliged to yield and return back.
An apology was, it is said, sent in to our General, from the commanding officer at Montauban, stating that he was sorry for what had happened, and hoping we would consider it as the act of somemauvais sujetsin the lower commissioned ranks of the army, and not the act of, or sanctioned by, the garrison in general. I believe, however, that it is intended still to make some remonstrance on the subject.
Dr. Macgregor has returned here, delighted with his trip to Montpelier, Avignon, Nismes, Valence, &c. He was received most cordially everywhere, and at some places quite enthusiastically. Almost at every place, he fell in with fêtes and entertainments in consequence of the late changes, and the whole country was covered with conscriptsand deserters going home: he thinks he must have seen from ten to fifteen thousand. Everywhere, he found much jealousy between the military, the national guards, and the civilians, as is the case here. There were several quarrels in consequence. At the playhouse at Montpelier the applause was so violent at a new popular piece called “The Conscript,” that a French General, who was there with his suite, conceived it a marked insult to himself and rose to leave the house, but was persuaded to remain.
The Society of Medicine at Montpelier made the Doctor a member, with such fine speeches, that even though he only half understood them, they raised his blushes.
Friday, June 3rd.—In the midst of the bustle and confusion of my preparations for the march of to-morrow, I received this day your letter and papers to the 24th of May. I had just been reading in to-day’s French paper London news of the same date, so that, even this late mail, of only nine or ten days from London, brought us nothing new politically from England. The details, however, and private news are always interesting. I shall have more occasion for them as I am going the road on this (the Toulouse) side of the Garonne, instead of our military route, and shall be nearly, if not quite, alone, for almost every other person who goes this way intends to travel post, or ride faster than would suit me this warm weather. This road is said to be by far the most picturesque, rich, and amusing; and, having a passport ready, I mean to start at five to-morrow. My route is through Grisolles, Castel Sarazin, Monteil, Moissac, Agen, Port St. Marie (where I shall try and see ouremigréfriend, the Baron de Trenqueléon), Tomeirs, Reolle; then, if necessary, cross the river to Langon, but if not, keep the right bank, opposite Bordeaux. I have sent my baggage and Henry on in the line of march, and only take a Portugueseci-devantservant to the Prince of Orange, andnow mine, on a pony, with a small valise, and intend to trust to the inns for everything. Thus I shall avoid troops, and nearly all places through which they have passed.
The last detachment of cavalry will leave this to-morrow, to start to Grisolles and Montauban on Sunday. The Hussars in advance leave Montauban to-day. The last infantry will move from hence on Sunday; and the whole infantry from hence will be assembled at Bordeaux (excepting what may be embarked) by the 17th of June. The last Portuguese will pass Bayonne about the 23rd; and then the Guards and troops there will be at liberty to move—not before. The Spaniards are nearly all out of the country already!
Sir W. W. Wynne has been here these last five or six days, to succeed the Marquess of Buckingham; they are specimens of what are considered our greatest peers and commoners. The people here stare at them, and look strange. The inhabitants are seriously sorry for our departure, I really believe. We had a sort of farewell party at the Duke’s house yesterday, given by Colonel C. Campbell, of all the great men here: we dined, then went to the play, and then to the ball. Some of our Generals are so pleased that they talk seriously of returning here after peace is signed, and they have laid by their laurels in England. Having so many things to do, I must now end this, and leave it to go by the post, for I shall be away from head-quarters, and the regular post, perhaps, next mail. Do not be surprised if you do not hear again very soon. On my arrival at Bordeaux I shall endeavour to write immediately, and let you know my plans.
Head-Quarters, Bordeaux, June 13th, 1814.—On Saturday (11th), I sent you a few hasty lines, I will now try and fill up the interval from Toulouse here, with an account of my proceedings during that time.
After a tremendous thunder-storm, at six in the morningof the 4th of June, I started along the rich plain in which Toulouse stands, and proceeded through Grisolles, and a number of small places, to Castle Sarazin; but not liking the appearance of the latter, I went on to Moissac, which is just across the Tarn, at which place the plain ceases, and the road becomes hilly.
The distance was about forty-five miles to Moissac; the country all rich and fertile, but much too bare of wood, and the road is tiresome from its uniformly level character. The river ran the whole way, about half a mile from the road, and the opposite bank being high, bounded the view on that side, and formed a picturesque object, though not the most profitable, for the soil seemed less rich. The flat lands must be subject to great losses and damage from floods, as there is no fall for the sudden torrents which descend. The corn in many places had suffered much this year.
At Grisolles, I passed the last of the cavalry (the Blues) on their way home. The Life Guards entered Montauban with laurels. The Préfet immediately told the commanding officer, that he understood his men were come into the town in a triumphant manner, and seemed much vexed, until reminded that it was the 4th of June, when he became civil, and admitted the validity of the reason. On stopping at the village of Fignan, to give my horses some corn, I was very glad to find the inhabitants regretting the departure of the Portuguese regiment which had been quartered there, as they had behaved so well. They told me the people cried when they crossed the water, and the next day so many soldiers came back to take another farewell of their new friends, that the officers were compelled to place a guard to prevent it.
The Tarn at Moissac was wide, and the current very strong. The passage by the ferry, a troublesome one, backwards and forwards, through the remains of the ruined buttresses of an old bridge. On landing I askedfor the Commandant or French General. There had been unpleasant altercations of late near that place and neighbourhood. The officer of whom I inquired pointed to General Key, the late governor of St. Sebastian, who happened to be near. I announced myself to him, and was received civilly by him, and then immediately went to the inn.
The only sights noticeable in the town are a great water-mill in the river, with about twenty-four pair of mill-stones, and a number of establishments for purifying wheat and preparing flour. These last were on a large scale, but without machinery of any ingenuity, and one steam-engine would have saved them nearly all their labour, which was great. The country round is famous as a corn country, and Moissac was once a great place of export for flour and wheat by the canal, &c., of Toulouse, to Montpelier, and by the Tarn and Garonne to Bordeaux, and thence to the French islands and foreign settlements. The inhabitants wished much to begin dealing with the English; but I told them that our Parliament was about to prevent that taking place.
There is a curious old church at Moissac with many carved grotesque figures at the entrance. The style is nearly the old English, but in some places, the early Gothic. The accommodation at the inns is very good; but the joke of Milord Anglois has commenced, and is increasing fast. We were allmon Commandantandmon Général; and paid accordingly.
The next day, on leaving Moissac, I ascended a long hill, and continued on rich high ground above the river, in a country of cultivated, undulating scenery, with more wood, somewhat resembling Devonshire or Somersetshire, with the exception of the want of hedges. This continued about seven miles, when I came down again, having a fine view of the river, and continued my way along the banks over a rich flat through several villages and smalltowns to Agen, about thirty-four miles from Moissac. The valley was here much narrower and varied than that at Toulouse, bounded on both sides by gentle hills, cultivated and rich, as well as apparently populous, along the whole way. The French troops were in cantonments in every village, and in general looked very sulky. A few touched their caps to me, as I was in my scarlet uniform; but most looked sulky and took no notice. I was, however, never insulted. The cries of the children all the way, and often of the country-women, and sometimes of the men, ofvivent les Anglois!certainly did not contribute to put their soldiers and officers in better humour. If so disposed, I could easily, as the Irish say, “have picked a quarrel.”
At Agen all was gaiety and bustle. It was the Sunday before their great fair; and all was preparing for that, as well as for the service which was to take place in the great church the next day for Louis XVI., the Queen, &c. I immediately went to the Commandant of the town. He was civil, but the numerous officers looked very much disposed to be impertinent, if occasion should offer. The eager curiosity of the townspeople to see the English, and to be civil, was very pleasing; every one seemed anxious to show some attention. Here I fell in with Dr. M—— and Mr. and Mrs. J——, and after dining together, we went to the play.
It was a little narrow theatre, but almost new, and very clean and neat. The performances were not despicable. There was a good-looking singer, with no bad voice, from Bordeaux. In the character she acted much happened to be said of her innocence and inexperience. From the constant joking this gave rise to in the audience, and from some very prominent feature in her person, I conclude that she had lately been under the necessity of retiring from Bordeaux, from some littlefaux pas. And this, I was told afterwards, was the case.
Agen is an old and rather shabby town of about ten or eleven thousand inhabitants; but the walks and country around it are picturesque. The next morning I staid until after the ceremony had commenced in the church, and peeped in, to see what was going on, and whether the military attended. Many of the latter did so, with crape round their arms. I was immediately admitted without a ticket; and the old priests, several of whom had beenémigrés, and spoke a little English, were very civil to me. About twenty milliners had made really a very elegant linen and crape mausoleum for the occasion, nearly twenty feet high. Four fluted pillars, one at each corner, were made of fine white linen, the festoons round the base were of black and white crape, urns on the pillars, and other ornaments of the same. About a hundred and fifty wax candles were arranged up the steps on every side of the tomb, and above it were lilies springing fresh from the centre, and the crown, in elegant crape, suspended above the whole.
About ten o’clock I started again to find out the Baron de Trenqueléon at Port St. Marie, which was about twelve miles from Agen. On inquiry at the inn, I found a friend of his son’s who had left him only a few hours before. I, therefore, determined to cross the river again, in order to pay him a visit, and to stay there the night. Trenqueléon Chateau is about five miles from Port St. Marie, on the road thence to Nerac, on the side of the hills which enclose the valley in which the Garonne descends. It is old-fashioned, in the style of the Tuileries, and apparently large. In reality, it does not contain much room, but is a comfortable place.
Except two higher wings, it is, in fact, only a ground-floor house. The rooms are lofty, spacious, and decentlyfurnished for a French house in the country. There is a great square garden in front, like a wilderness full of weeds, with a square plantation and straight walks. The roads run about two hundred yards from it on one side, and a small river navigable for boats on the other, which runs into the Garonne about four miles below. This would be convenient to export the produce, if there were a market, which of late had been the case.
I found the old Baron feeble, without the use of his limbs, in a great chair penned in like a child. He was surrounded by a large party—his wife, his son, and his son’s wife, daughter to themaireof Agen; an old lady, whom I took for the Baron’s sister; and five young ladies, who called him “Papa.” One of these was in weeds, and one about twenty-five or thirty; the rest young. One was a fresh, ruddy, English-looking girl. All were most attentive and civil. The old Baron made me repeatedly kiss him, and cried several times as he conversed with me. He remembered all our friends in England during his emigration. He was very anxious to know all I could tell him of my brothers. He asked much after your sister and brother, and the T—— family. His table was bad, but there was quantity, and a hearty welcome. I was put into his uncle’s room, our old friend the Bishop of Montpelier. His family seemed attentive to him, and, except at meal times, seemed to live around him, some at work, some reading the papers to him, and some sitting ready to talk, and with no other occupation. The poor girls must lead a very dull life in the Chateau de Trenqueléon, for from the state of the Baron’s health they do not go out to balls or amusements even at Agen.
On the following morning I left Trenqueléon about twelve o’clock, and crossed the river again at a ferry near Aiguillon, which is a pretty town, small, but well situated. I got on to Tomeins that night. The countrycontinues to be the same rich valley the whole way, and is very populous. Tomeins is a small ill-built town of perhaps about five thousand inhabitants. There is nothing of interest in it, except a fine sort of Richmond-terrace view from the public walk overhanging the river. The women struck us as very pretty, and they were peculiarly eager about “les Anglois” one or two calling out in English, as we passed near the windows where they were, “How you do? how you do?” &c., and then running away to hide themselves. And this came from well-dressed girls in good houses.
On the 8th I proceeded through Marmande de la Reolle, to breakfast; and then crossing the river again near Langon, I intended to stop at the pretty village of Barsac, about five miles on this side Langon, where the good wine of that name comes from. Finding all this part full of our sixth division, just arrived, I was obliged to push on to Ceron, a mere post stage and a poor inn.
On the 9th I proceeded to this place (Bordeaux), and arrived by one o’clock, when my order to proceed to Tarragona (for the trial of Sir J. Murray) was put into my hands. I found every one in the same hurry and confusion as when the Duke paid us his last visit at Toulouse.
The country continued nearly the same until we got some way beyond Barsac; we then began to skirt the Landes, and had only sand and firs, a sort of Bagshot Heath, but still broken by frequent villages and chateaux, which are very numerous around Bordeaux.
During my journey I always stopped at some small inn for a feed of corn in the course of the way, and also during rain, which was frequent and heavy. I gave the chance passengers their wine to make them talk. A drunken Frenchman seemed much like an English one, and was sometimes very entertaining; but the feeling of the soldiers was the most curious. At one place I found two discharged soldiers going home on leave; they saidthat they had been betrayed by their Generals, &c., and that the game was up, so they had applied for their discharges, for they would not fight for the King. They had served seven or eight years, and now intended to be quiet, though their wounds would not have prevented their fighting for the Emperor. One had lost a finger only, the other had received a knock in the leg, which rather made him halt a little; they had both above sixteen months’ pay due to them, but said that they concluded, of course, the King would never pay the Emperor’s debts, and they were satisfied to be discharged without pensions. They said that nine-tenths of the soldiers of the army would have remained firm to the Emperor if their Generals had been faithful, and had agreed in opinion with them; “mais n’importe—c’est fini.”
The Trenqueléon party told me, they were for some time in great uneasiness, for we had no troops near them on the left bank of the river, and on the right bank only came down to the river Lot. Thus Agen was the centre of the formation of partisan corps who were to cross the river near them, and scour the country to annoy us.
In three or four instances they succeeded in this; and the Commissioner was issuing most violent orders to compel all persons to form their corps immediately (these if caught by us would be hung), and to teach the women also, to entice our soldiers into their houses by wine, &c., to make them prisoners and kill them, and even to instruct their children to cut the back sinews of the horses in the stables at night, saying they must do as the Spaniards did by them in Spain.
The Baron’s family said they had different feelings, but would have been compelled to do much of this had matters gone on. They also talked with much horror of the state of terror in which they had been kept by Bonaparte’s agents. One deputy Préfet some time sincealarmed them by quietly telling some of their neighbours (who told them again) that they were in a terrible scrape, and had been detected corresponding with the English. They went instantly to the Préfet to know what this meant, and found it was one of my father’s letters about the Bishop of Montpelier’s affairs, which had been stopped by the police. My father was the Bishop’s executor in England. The Préfet afterwards told him to be easy—“ce n’étoit rien.” The Baron seems to have been a popular character in the neighbourhood.
12th, later.—A mail goes to-day, and I have a pile of papers a foot high to arrange by to-morrow. The Duke goes away and leaves the army the day after, Wednesday the 14th, consequently all is a bustle of business, balls, dinners, operas, plays, all proceeding at once. My next will give you an account of this handsome town. I am in quarters at Monsieur Emerigon’s, a barrister now at Paris, but daily expected to return. The Duke has written strongly home to put off this intended Court-martial at Tarragona; all here detest it, and grumble. The worst is, that we are to remain here in suspense until an answer arrives.
I am writing without my coat, and so are all the Duke’s Secretaries, &c., on account of the heat. The thermometer shut up in my writing-desk is at 76°. The sun most ardent when out.