THE SMOKESTACK

THE SMOKESTACK

To a Steeple-Jack any stack, regardless of whether it is composed of brick, steel or concrete, is a smokestack. Undoubtedly you have heard these stacks referred to as chimneys; nevertheless, from now on we will call them smokestacks.

Steel smokestacks are supported by guy wires. As a general rule two sets of guy wires support a steel stack, but I have often found a smokestack supported by three sets of guy wires. These guy wires consist of four wires to a set.

There is supposed to be a wire which runs through a sheave from the top of the stock to enable the stack man to rig up. This wire is flexible and is called a gimblet wire. Above all things, do not use this gimblet wire for ascending purposes; by that I mean in such a manner as to cause the weight of your body to rest upon this wire, as there is often great danger in an act of this kind.

Read carefully the following few linesand you will be convinced of the risk you are taking by endeavoring to ascend on the gimblet wire.

If the gimblet wire in question has been in that position for a year, in all probability it is rotten at the point where it runs through the hook at the top of the stack, and it would not take much weight to loosen it. So bear in mind, no matter how light or heavy in weight you may be, do not climb up on the gimblet wire.

The following is a more simple and far more safe way of getting to the top:

First of all, get a board from six to nine feet in length and two to three inches in depth. Take one end of the gimblet wire and tie it to the end of your board, and fasten the other end of the wire to the board about three feet from the end. Take your stack hook—a hook of good ⅝-inch steel. This hook should be about fourteen inches long, the hook being six inches long; a five-inch opening with an eye opening of about two inches, so that you can hook your block and tackle to it. Attach your stack hook to the board on the side opposite to where your gimblet wire is fastened. Be sure the hook is turned towards the stack.

Ready to Pull the Rigging Up

Ready to Pull the Rigging Up

The Boatswain Chair

The Boatswain Chair

When this is done, pull on the wire; that will draw up your riggings, reaving your block and falls out to the size of the stack, so as to enable you to keep them from twisting with the gimblet wire. Now, then, should this board be weak and break while you have your riggings near the top, to prevent them from falling down and one end of the gimblet wire from running to the top, tie a heavy piece of cord to the end of the gimblet wire, running it to the other end of the wire, then fasten to your blocks.

This will prevent a hard day’s work untangling your riggings from the guy wires, should the board break.

Tripping Riggings on Top of Stack

Tripping Riggings on Top of Stack

After drawing your rigging to the top, the board drawn tight up to the block on top of the stack, pull on the gimblet wire that is attached to the end of the board. This motion brings the end of your board bearing the hook and rigging up. In some cases, the stack being small in diameterand the board being too long, the hook will stick far out from the stack, and with all hard efforts will not lodge it over the top. When you have this proposition to contend with, leave the stack about three or four inches on the gimblet wire that holds the board tight to the block on the stack. In some cases you have to drop the board as far as from two to three feet below the block, in order to get your hook in a position where it will settle over the top of the stack with the hooked part inside of the stack.

This is very important. Be sure that the hook is not only setting on top. This can be determined by twisting all four lines, making them one bundle; then by giving the lines a few switchings back and forth in all directions. When this is done and you have fully convinced yourself that the hook is properly over the top, then your next move is to start for the top.

If it is your first time in a boatswain chair, I would suggest that you soundyourself first as to dizziness. This can very easily be done by the following method:

Stand along the side of the stack, throwing your head to one side and looking up, allowing your eyes to follow the stack and the clouds, shaking the head at different times. This brings on dizziness. Then stand erect, so as to clear your head. After getting into the boatswain chair, you place the fall line of your riggings—that is, the line with which you draw yourself up—between your legs. This enables you and your helper to pull more steadily together, and you get to the top much quicker.

I have noticed that the majority of stack men regard this as the most difficult part of the job—drawing to the top. Once up, the job is half done.

After you reach the top of the stack, the first thing to be done is to cut away the string that holds the stack hook to the board. You then lower the board to the ground. Still tied by the wire to the board for further use in case you wantto trip off with it when the job is finished.

There is still an easier way, which I will explain later. Now we will say the work you are to do is paint. For your information I will say that oil paint is preferred by Steeple-Jacks for several reasons, some of which are: It is easy to apply in all kinds of weather; you are bound to get plenty of it in the face, and it is easier to wash off than tar. From my personal experience I have found that graphite and oil preserve a steel smokestack better than any other. You will come in contact with people who will differ with you as to this point; however, when you meet with a difficulty of this nature, give the man what he asks for. If he wants water, give him water; if he desires to have tar, give it to him, but if he wants something good, then suggest an oil paint. Graphite and oil—the preservable.

A great number of men with whom you deal will say: “I want tar on my stack.” I have learned from my own personal experience that the answer which will innine cases out of ten take with the man with whom you are dealing is something on this order: “If you want tar, all right, but it will cost youmoremoney.” He will immediately confront you with a question similar to this: “Why is that?” Your reply should be: “If I put tar on your smokestack and come back next year for your work, you will refuse me, because tar blisters in places and rust forms under the blisters, which prevent the rust from being seen, and in a few years there are holes in the stack, whereas an oil paint wears off, showing the rust spots.”

Changing Positions on Top of Stack

Changing Positions on Top of Stack

However, I am running away from my story. We will go back to the top of the stack. You look down, getting straight above a guy wire, reach over as far as you can and paint, leaving the space directly in front clear; drop down about ten feet, painting as you go; draw up to the top again, switching the stack hook over and directly above the next nearest guy wire. In order to accomplish this, take an extra hook similar to your stack hook and about seven feet of ½-inch line. Placethe extra hook over the top; tie the other end of the sling to the rope of your boatswain chair, making it good and secure. Then lower your weight from your rigging until it rests on the extra hook and sling. You then draw your regular stack hook up to the extra hook. When this is done you pull your weight again to your riggings and push the extra hook around. Do this until you get to the position you want, just above the next nearest guy wire, repeating the same as you did above the other guy wire, painting about ten feet down. When this is done, draw back to the top, using the same method to get over to the middle of the two spaces you have painted.

Then start to paint between the two spaces already completed. By so doing you are able to make a larger sweep on your way down. In order to make time on a stack it pays to have a helper on the ground, so as to take the end of the fall line or handy line and pull you around and by doing this also help to keep you in to the stack, which enables one to workto a better advantage and much quicker. Remember, “Time is money,” and there is lots of it to be made.

The opportunity is there. Tradesmen of all walks of life say: “Gee, business is dull in my trade. If I only had the opportunity that some people have.” A Steeple-Jack should never say that, because there is always work to be done on a smokestack the year ’round. Don’t be afraid to ask for it, and also a price. Yours is not a common trade. It takes brains, brawn and nerve, so don’t permit your nerve to fail you when you are asking a price.

Another thing to be careful of is not to allow your rope to get caught and tangled in the end of a guy wire attached to the stack at the band. Should this happen, it may put you in a very hazardous position. Give this a glance now and then and, should such a thing happen, do not get excited and start tugging. The more you tug, the tighter it gets. Have someone to switch it out from the ground. It is possible to do this from the air.

Showing Falls Caught in Guy Wire

Showing Falls Caught in Guy Wire

High wind is the Steeple-Jack’s greatest enemy. It is only a fool who would attempt to rig a smokestack when the wind is blowing a gale; in fact, it is almost impossible to work in a high wind. More work can be accomplished in one-fifth of the time on a calm day. “Time is money,” but always take time when your life is at stake. Always keep in mind the motto: “Safety First.”

When tying up your riggings for the night, and it might be calm at the close of the day. Weather changes in a very few minutes at times. To safeguard against the rope from wearing against the stack and guy wires, walk out about fifteen feet from the stack, taking a piece of extra sling. Tie the sling to some object that is solid, throw two half-hitches with your fall line around the riggings just above the single block. When this is done, pass the sling which you have tied to some object through the hook of the block, making it fastened to the block. Then pull the slack out of your riggings with the fall line, at the same time keepingthe two half-hitches just above the block. Do not take up all the slack; leave some play in your lines, using your own judgment as to whether the lines will come in contact with the guy wires. The weather will shrink the line more or less.


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