ECCENTRIC CHUCK.

“The centre mov’d—a circle straight succeeds;Another still, and still another spreads.”

“The centre mov’d—a circle straight succeeds;

Another still, and still another spreads.”

Plate 10.

Perhaps the most useful of all the additions to the lathe is this chuck, for by its aid the turner can alter the centre of his work as he pleases, producing a great variety of circular lines of different sizes, and other ornaments, which cannot be attempted without it. The tools are those already described belonging to the slide rest, which latter, when used with this chuck, assumes quite a different character than when employed with the eccentric and universal cutters and the drill. With these three, it merely serves to mark, by aid of its screw, the distance they require to be from the work, and the position in which they are to be placed, but does not assist in the size or form of the patterns to be cut; with the eccentric chuck, however, it is quite different. The rest marks thesizeof the circles, while the chuck fixes theirposition. Thus: suppose you wish to cut a circle, or series of circles, not as in the pattern, No. 1,plate 6, which begin from the centre and gradually enlarge, but likethose in No. 3; the slide rest must be set to the proper position, to enable the tool to cut the requisite circle, and then the chuck must be screwed down till the tool arrives opposite the exact place where the pattern is to be worked. With this chuck the over-head frame is no longer used; the brass and fly-wheels being employed together, as in common turning, the chuck having a wheel of its own by which to regulate the patterns. In the annexed plate, fig. 1, is a front view of the eccentric chuck; fig. 2 is the same seen sideways.

A A are two brass plates, with a screw at the back of them, as shown at P, fig. 2; by this screw it fastens on to the mandrel of the lathe like a common chuck. A A are so shaped as to admit of D sliding up and down them, and the four screws enable the slide to be tightened or loosened. Down the middle of the chuck is a screw with a very fine thread; it is turned at either end by the square head, 3, and thus D slides up and down at pleasure, but cannot in any way get out of its proper position, and, above all, can never shake in its bed. E is a brass wheel divided into 120 teeth, upon which the distances are calculated, the same as on theother brass wheel; in the middle of it, F, is a screw, the same in size as that on the mandrel, upon which the chuck that holds the work must be screwed. The wheel, E, has a spring screw, which, by turning back the spring, H, enables you to move the wheel round as many numbers as you wish, and the steel point, K, marks the one you wish to set it at. L is a small wheel with four numbers marked upon it; by setting it at O, the steel screw passes from line to line of the wheel, E, fig. 2; by turning it one line further, it stops at ¼; another line, it stops at ½; and a third, at ⅓; thus enabling you to cut your patterns as fine and delicate as you like.

The square heads, 3 3, are placed at each end of the chuck, so that the plate D can traverse the whole length, and thus enable you to ornament a square or an oblong piece of work; both heads have four numbers marked upon them, by which you regulate the motions of the chuck. For instance, when D D is screwed up level with the black line O, the screw F will be exactly in the centre of the lathe. Now, suppose the tool in the slide rest is set to cut a very small circle, and you wish, having done that one, to cut several others of the samesize round it, thus,small wheelyou must turn the chuck down one turn by counting the numbers on the square head, No. 3; and having cut one circle in the proper place, count as many numbers on the brass plate, E, as are necessary to make them fit properly. Should you wish to make a second row of circles larger than the first, besides turning down the chuck, you must, to enlarge them, turn the screw of the slide-rest one turn forwards. All the patterns already given for the eccentric cutter can be done equally well with the eccentric chuck, except the border pattern in No. 4, which can only be worked by the cutter. Patience, calculation, and attention will enable you to perform the most beautiful, minute, and intricate patterns with the eccentric chuck; but though I have endeavoured to give many specimens, when printed they only in a slight degree convey an idea of the real beauty of this kind of turning; the depth of the cut will wholly alter the appearance of a pattern, and the same circles cut with another shaped tool present quite a different appearance; in all, however, there is one rule, which must never be forgotten—viz., be very careful to make your wood or ivoryperfectlysmooth,flat, and even, before attempting to ornament it, or you will be disappointed by finding that your circles are cut deep in one part and are scarcely visible in another; also remember tolineit, as directed when treating of the slide-rest, for this gives much effect to the work.

Plate 11.

Pattern 1,plate 11. Begin by the shell. Having smoothed and lined your wood, put a double angular tool (No. 4 of the slide-rest tools) into your rest; turn the slide-screw till the tool is exactly in the centre of your work, when, if you move the wheel round, you will find the tool will only cut a dot. The outer circle is the one with which to commence; turn the slide-rest screw forwards ten whole turns, and you will find you have the circle of the proper size. Now approach the tool to the wood, cut the circle carefully at first, till you decide on the proper depth for the cuts; then set your screw guides, and proceed as follows. For the other ten circles, move the eccentric chuck downwards half a turn, and diminish their size by moving the slide-rest screw backwards half a turn, so as to keep the lower part of each circle in the same place. To have a good effect, shells should bewell cut up—thatis, each circle should be of a sufficient depth for the edge of the cut to meet the former one, and thus efface the lines made in preparing the wood. The rays from the centre are worked with the drill; put a fine round-ended tool, No. 3 of the drill tools, into the drill; place it in the slide rest, stop the fly-wheel, arrange the cords, and set the tool with the screw guides to cut very little at first. By means of the slide-rest screw, push the drill forwards till the tool touches the outer edge of the shell; hold it well up to the work with the lever; make the lathe go very quick, and move the drill on the slide forwards very slowly, by turning the slide-rest wheel round with the key 12 turns FORWARDS, then the same backwards. Move 12 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel for each of the other middle lines, and cut them as above; then move the slide-rest half a turn forwards to shorten the line, and move 1 number on the eccentric chuck wheel, and cut a line moving the slide-rest 11 turns forwards, by which it will be equally shortened at each end. Move to the other side of the long lines and do the same. The whole pattern is done in this manner, counting one for every line on theeccentric chuck wheel, and gradually shortening them by reducing the turns of the slide rest. For the third pattern, which would look better done in dots than in circles, take away the drill, put back the slide rest tool-box, and take a flat-ended tool; set it to cut a dot about the same size as the circles, just deep enough to efface the under lines, so that each dot will look bright and shining. Having cut one, count 2 on the eccentric chuck wheel for each of the other 60; then screw the chuck downwards 2 turns, so that the next row may be just above those already done; cut five dots, counting 2 numbers for each, then pass over four and cut five more; and so on to the end. The upper circle is worked precisely the same as the lower one. The outer pattern is done like the arc patterns inplate 12, counting 5 for each arc on the eccentric chuck.

The middle pattern is formed of eight shells, with only four lines in each; but these parts of shells begin at the centre point, not round it, as in the former pattern. Use a double angular tool, screw the tool slide out 10 turns, and the eccentricchuckdownwards, till the outer or largest circle just touches the centre; cut one circle, move 15 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel; cut another, and continue the same till the eight are done; then diminish each as directed for the shell, counting 15 for every circle. The second pattern, of rings one within another, is worked with the same tool; set it to the centre point of the wood, screw it forwards four turns, then screw the chuck downwards until you can cut a circle just above the shells; count 6 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel for each of the 20: then diminish your circles by turning the slide-rest screwbackwardshalf a turn; do the second row, counting 6 as before, and the same for the two inner ones. A still prettier way of doing this pattern is to cut steps instead of circles. Put a fine flat-ended tool into the slide, set it to cut a circle the same circumference as the largest in the pattern; then reduce its size as before, and cut the next deeper, by screwing out the screw guides a very little; the third is still smaller and deeper. A little dot should remain in the middle, standing up as high as the level of the wood; to do this pattern the wood must be thick, as the steps requirea certain depth. The outer pattern is done in the same manner as that in pattern 1, only the numbers are counted differently.

Count 40 on the eccentric chuck wheel for each of the three large circles, diminish one turn of the eccentric chuck. Then diminish the circle two turns of the rest screw, and lower the eccentric chuck two turns, and cut a circle every 20 numbers; the others are done the same. For the second pattern of circles, cut one for every number on the eccentric chuck wheel; then move one number on the eccentric chuck wheel, and move the eccentric chuck downwards one turn, and cut a circle every 15; by moving the chuck down, and advancing one number every time, the circles are made to incline sideways. The outer pattern is much the same as in the two former ones.

This is a double shell in the centre. Begin with the large circle, having fixed the eccentric chuck wheel at No. 120. Having cut one whole shell,move the wheel to No. 60, and work the other in the same way. For the circles, keep the tool in the same place on the slide rest, and screw the eccentric chuck down two turns to clear the edge of the shell; cut one circle every 12 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel, enlarge the circle by moving the slide rest one turn forwards; cut the second row, and so on till the fourth or largest one is done, then diminish the size for the other twoWITHOUTaltering the chuck, but counting the same. The white dots are worked out with a flat-ended tool, cutting one every six numbers on the eccentric wheel; then move your chuck downwards three turns, and cut one every 12; this done, move back to the former row to the dot that comes between the circles, replace the double angular tool, enlarge your circle, and cut one every 12; screw the chuck downwards three turns, and proceed the same; then screw the chuck upwards one turn and a half, which will bring your tool to a level with the middle of the two former circles; move the eccentric chuck wheel one number on each side of the former ones, and the rosette will be finished. The border is formed of plain circles, omitting 3 numbers every ninth cut.

The middle and second row of circles are too simple to require explanation. For the clusters of rings, begin with the middle row; cut two a little apart from each other, then one through the middle of them, and so on to the end; set the eccentric chuck wheel to themiddlecircle of one of the clusters, and move the eccentric chuck downwards, till the tool can cut through the middle of the others, then upwards the same number of turns. The extra half circle is made by moving the wheel of the lathe with the hand, as for the arc patterns, and counting the numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel,betweenthose already formed.

This is merely a circle of shells, worked the same as in pattern 1; only with this difference, that each circle is done to correspond in each shell, instead of working every one separately, which would be more tedious; 15 is counted on the eccentric chuck wheel for each row of circles. The rays in the middle are done with the drill; these can also bedone without an eccentric chuck; the numbers must then be counted on the fly-wheel, which, for this kind of line work, is kept steady with the stop.

Cut a small circle, then one every 12 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel. Move the chuck downwards two turns, and the eccentric chuck wheel 1 number, either backwards or forwards; if the former, the rows of circles will incline to the right; if the latter, to the left. Proceed the same for every row of circles, always counting twelve between each, and advancing the chuck 1 number at the beginning of every new row.

Begin with a small circle in the middle, then turn the eccentric chuck down two turns, and cut one every 15. For the other two rows proceed the same, lowering the chuck two turns, and counting 15 for each on the eccentric chuck wheel. For the chain work, cut a circle every 15 near the edge; then screw the eccentric chuck one turn upwards,move 1 on the eccentric chuck wheel on each side of the others; thus, if the upper row of circles begin at 120, the second row will begin at Nos. 1 and 119, then at Nos. 14 and 16, and so on: the third and fourth rows are the same as the two first; and the last is cut between the others.

Plate 12.

Patterns 3 and 4 are called arc patterns, and are worked in a different manner. Inplate 4, fig. A is a drawing of the brass fly-wheel of the lathe, with the numbers marked upon it. D is a brass circle half an inch wide, which is attached to it: and upon which are marked 144 lines, every 18 of which is described by a number. B B are pieces of brass which, by means of a groove in the edge of the circle, fit upon two steel slides that fit into the groove, and are kept firm by two nuts, which fix them opposite any number you wish. P is a long thin piece of steel, which enters by one end the bed of the lathe, so as always to stand quite upright, by which means, when the brass fly-wheel is gently turned with the hand, the flat end of the stop, P, catches upon the lower piece of brass, B, and if you reverse the motion of the fly-wheel, the other piece, B, will rest upon the stop, so that youwill find the wheel can only turn half or three parts round, just as you choose to set the stops. These patterns, it will immediately be seen, are worked with the hand, which must guide the wheel slowly up and down; therefore slip off the cord, and having arranged a double angular tool in the slide rest, hold it up to the centre of the work, put the stop, P, into the hole,n, of the bed of the lathe, and gently move the wheel till you find the extent of circle you wish to cut; fasten on one slide firmly, then fix the other end of the arc, and fasten the other slide. This done, approach the tool carefully to the wood, and cut the first long arc by moving the fly-wheel with your left hand as far up and down as the stop will allow; then move 20 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel for every one of the other five arcs, and cut them in the same way. After these are completed, move one number on the eccentric chuck wheel and unscrew theUPPERslide, and move it down as many lines as you think fit, in order to shorten the next arc; count 20, as before, for every other of the 5. Each row is worked the same, shortening the arcs and advancing one number on the eccentric chuck wheelfor each row. Pattern 4, and the border in pattern 1,plate 11., all are done in the same manner, only counting differently. A great variety of arcs can be worked, and have a very curious effect, but you must be careful in cutting them not to let the tool go too deeply into the wood or ivory, or it will either stick fast, or else cut jagged, uneven arcs; rather prefer to spend more time over the work, by working the arcs over and over again till the proper depth is obtained.

These patterns will enable the learner easily to discover and invent many others, all beautiful when properly and neatly worked.

Cut a circle every 24 numbers of the eccentric chuck wheel. Lower the chuck one turn, and cut a circle on each side of the former ones, so as to form the five knots of threes. The edge is worked like the arc patterns, making each half circle meet and join with a dot, cut with a small flat-ended tool.

For the border cut three circles, one for each number on the eccentric chuck wheel, then cutanother at 6, 7, and 8, and so on till all are done. The pattern in the middle needs no explanation.

Plate 13.

Plate 13contains several specimens of eccentric turning. The temple may be made either of wood or ivory, and be left open, as in the plate, or have a coloured card-board case made to fit inside it. The upper and lower parts of the pillars, six in number, are fluted with a round-ended drill, but the middle parts are worked with the eccentric chuck, and are curious specimens of its powers. They much resemble a spiral staircase, and though at first sight they may appear difficult, yet they are not so when properly explained. Begin by turning the wood or ivory perfectly cylindrical with the slide-rest tool. This done, screw your eccentric chuckone turndownwards, and turn the screw of your restone turnforwards, moving 12 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel for every step. As this requires great nicety, delicacy, and care, (the cuts being very deep,) you must no longer depend upon the lever to approach the tool (which is No. 1, of the slide-rest tools) to the work; instead of using it, screw one of the screws, L, at the end of the tool slider, to the deepest cut, and leave it so; then,as you push the tool against the wood, gently unscrew the other screw, L, till the first one prevents its cutting any deeper. For every step, move exactly the breadth of the tool. If the piece you are working is thin and long, it will be necessary to use the back puppet; in which case remember to draw it away from the wood at every change of movement; for, of course, when the eccentric chuck is altered, the centre of the work becomes altered also. Nos. 1 and 2 ofplate 13are different patterns for pillars, both workedwithoutthe eccentric chuck. The depth of the cuts, it will immediately be seen, form the steps. The rings now demand our attention; the tool used for forming them is No. 6 of the slide-rest tools,plate 5; one side of the tool cuts the outer; the other, the inner part of the rings. Put the tool into a handle, where it must be held firm by a screw; the same handle will be very useful to hold the slide-rest tools for making mouldings and delicate ornaments. The end of the ring tool, No. 6, being very sharp, cuts a road for itself into the wood or ivory, then press it gently to the left, till you find one half of the ring is formed, which will be seen by its filling up the half circle ofthe tool; then remove the tool to the outside of the work, and press the other side against it till the ring falls off. It is a good way to turn a small cup and line it with velvet, or some soft article, into which to allow the rings to fall, as the delicate ones would be apt to split by striking against the steel bed of the lathe. To form the chain, cut the rings carefully through on one side with a sharp penknife, and slip them one through the other. The handles of the temple are large rings, the pins they hang upon are of wood. Flatten the knob either with a file or a small saw, and drill a hole through it to receive the ring; the pin is then glued into the moulding.

The ball at the top is turned quite round, and may be ornamented with the circular rest. The ball pendant from the chain is circular, except on one side, where a small pin is left, through which drill a hole and slip the ring through it. All the ornaments, pillars, and flutings may be made of separate small pieces of ivory, which, when worked, are easily fastened together by a strong cement made of isinglass melted in gin. The top of the temple may be worked with the universal cutter, or the drill, andthe feet are turned quite round, and then ornamented with the eccentric cutter, as directed for the stopper of the bottle, B,plate 9. The needle-case, E, inplate 13, is also a specimen of curious turning; the whole thing should be of ivory, or else the twists of ivory, and the pillar in the middle of cocoa, or some dark wood. Turn the ivory perfectly cylindrical, and hollow it very carefully; this done, throw your eccentric chuck four times outwards, the screw of the sliding rest one turn downwards, and the eccentric chuck wheel four numbers for each plate. The other twists are each worked exactly the same, and they must have a small pin left at either end, which is glued into the moulding. When your centre pillar is hollowed, fit the twists to it.

Another method for working this pattern is with the aid of the drill, and by this means the twists are in thesamepiece of ivory as the pillar. Having formed a smooth cylinder, hollowed it out, and made the screws, take your largest flat-ended drill, and drill fifteen holes round the pillar, or one at every eighth number of the eccentric chuck wheel. Your ivory must be very thick, to enable the tool to cut very deep. Having cut one row of holes, slowlyand carefully, you must move the sliding rest forward two turns, then cut another hole every eighth number again; do a third circle the same, moving the chuck and slide the same every time. Now examine your work, and see whether the twists begin to appear. They should, as in the plate, be quiteseparatefrom the ivory tube in the middle, being only joined at the top and bottom. For this no exact rule can be given, as it depends on the circumference of the work: if very large, the tool must cut very deep to detach it: but, after trying two or three times by these directions, it will be found quite easy. As the ivory twists are, of course, very delicate, and the least jar in working is apt to break, do not use the lever, but employ the screw guides, as directed for the spiral turning.Linethe ivory before beginning the twists, and leave about half an inch at each end, which you can ornament with the cutter: this gives strength to the work. For the same reason, it is advisable to cut one piece of your ivory longer than the other: on the shorter one make the outside screw, and below it about half an inch of ornament; on the other, make the inside screw, and work it with the cutter to correspondwith the other part, quite beyond where the screw extends. When screwed together, it will not be perceived that the two pieces are not even; and as the part where the inner screw is worked is, of course, thin, you would have no thickness for the spiral pattern. When one end is finished, put a fine double angular tool into your cutter, and very carefully cut some circles at regular distances between the twists: this adds much to the curious effect of the patterns: to do it, work backwards, counting the same numbers on the chuck wheel and on the sliding rest as for the twists.

Patterns that are not cut deep can have the impression taken off on paper, either by slightly rubbing the wood over with printers’ ink, and laying upon it silver paper, which must be pressed down upon it; or by laying the paper on the wood, and rubbing it well with a piece of lead melted into the shape of a pencil. Patterns on ivory also look very well by rubbing a little printers’ ink well over them till the lines are full of it, then wipe off the superfluous ink from the surface, and the design will be black on a white ground.

An immense variety of most beautiful and intricatepatterns are worked with the eccentric cutter, in conjunction with the eccentric chuck; indeed, many of those formerly supposed to be only done with the double eccentric chuck, invented by Mr. Ibbetson, can be worked by these two when used together, but they require much patience, and knowledge of the powers of the eccentric chuck, to enable the learner to use them properly. When the eccentric cutter is used, always set the tool exactly in thecentreof the work, at its lowest degree, before you begin any pattern, or you will never be quite sure that your work is done straight; when once you have settled the centre, the patterns will diverge regularly and evenly from it. In the patterns we are going to describe, the slide rest fixes the position of the tool; the chuck must be screwed down to the proper situation to meet it, and the cutter tool must then be screwed out to cut the circle required.

This pattern is formed of four groups of circles, containing seven in each. Your wood being perfectly smoothed andlined, set the cutter tool (adouble angular one) at its lowest degree, exactly in the centre of the work, so that if moved it would only cut a dot. Unscrew it eight or ten turns to make a large circle, then by impelling the cutter box forwards with the slide-rest screw, fix it so that the tool cuts the circle a littleoverthe centre: arrange your screw guides: having cut one circle, count 30 on the eccentric chuck wheel, and the same for the other two. It will be observed that these four groups go in straight lines, each towards the edge of the work; to perform this, in the six following rows of circles, move the slide rest forwards half a turn, and the small wheel of the eccentric chuck half a turn upwards for each row of four circles, counting 30, as before, till the twenty-eight are all done.

Plate 14.

Arrange the circle a little smaller than for pattern 1, and on a level with the centre point of the work. Set the chuck wheel at 120, cut a circle; then one at 15, 30, 45, 60, 75, 90, 105, when you will find the eightoutercircles of the pattern are formed. Then move the slide-rest screw forwardsfour numbers, and to No. 1 on the eccentric chuck wheel; then to Nos. 14-31, 44-61, 74-91, 104. By following the same rule in the other circles you will find the pattern is not difficult, though at first it may appear very intricate. As all depends upon properly counting the numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel, to make the calculation more easy, I give the proper numbers for the sixteen circles composing one cluster, and you will then see that the others can readily-be done the same, always remembering to move the slide-rest screw forwards four numbers for every row; 1, 15-2, 14-3, 13-4, 12-5, 11-6, 10-7, 9-8; the latter single number forms the centre or outer circle near the edge.

This pattern requires great attention and care to work it properly. Having arranged the cutter tool, screw it out four turns to make the circle the proper size, then move the cutter to the edge of the work, cut a circle at Nos. 120, 40, and 80, on the eccentric chuck wheel, then set the wheel at 20, and leave it fixed. Your next operation must be to screw downthe eccentric chuck, and alter the position of the tool on the slide-rest, till, by laying your hand on the fly-wheel and moving it gently, the tool of the cutter appears to describe a half circleacrossthe wood, in the same way as for the arc patterns. Having arranged the first arc, move 40, as before, and see whether the second will exactly meet it, then the third; they should each diverge from the centre of the first circles which were cut round the edge; if they do not exactly fit, move the chuck up and down, and the slide-rest screw backwards or forwards, till you find the exact position; as, however, the arc is difficult to settle, the line being of course an imaginary one, as the tool must not touch the wood, it is a good way to cut a piece of pencil to fit like the tool into a box, and with it mark the arcs; they will easily rub out, and thus you will be able to be more certain of your proper distance and position. The next thing is, to see on the fly-wheel of the lathe how many numbers are required to form the arc; thus, if it begins, as the one I have worked did, at 360 of the brass wheel, and ended at 85, stop the wheel at the former number, cut a circle, then one at every fifth numberon the same wheel, till you arrive at 85; then move forty numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel, and do the other arc the same; then the third one.

The arc pattern is first worked: arrange it as directed for pattern 3, and mark the outline with a pencil: in this, the arc began at 280 of the fly-wheel, and ended at 168, making in all 116 numbers; to divide 58 for each half of the arc, divide them thus—4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 3, 4; then count back 4, 3, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4. You will see that the numbers increase one every time or for every circle, which also is enlarged one notch for each. Having made the three arcs fit by marking their position with the pencil in the cutter box, cut a very small circle at 280, enlarge one notch, count 5, cut another, enlarge a notch, count 6, and so on till you have counted, in all, 49 numbers; do not enlarge the circle, but cut one, counting three numbers, then 4, which will be the middle, then 4 again, then 3, then 10; after 10, decrease the circle one notch for every cut, and count backwards, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4. The other three arcs are done the same,by counting 40 for each on the eccentric chuck wheel; for each of the crowns cut five circles just above the arc, by counting one number for each circle on the eccentric chuck wheel, then lower the chuck one number, and cut the same circles again through the others; lower it half a turn more, and cut two circles; then half a turn again, and cut one circle above and between the last two.

Set the cutter to the middle, enlarge the circle four turns; then turn the slide-rest screw two numbers to the right, cut one circle, and for each of the other eleven, screw the chuck down one turn, then return to the middle and cut eleven the other way. When 23 are finished, screw the slide rest to the left four numbers, and cut 23 more exactly in the same manner. To work the side patterns begin by that on the right, set the cutter to the middle of the work, unscrew it two turns, move the cutter slide twelve turns to the right on the slide-rest, cut the middle circle, enlarge one number of the cutter, lower the eccentric chuck one turn, and, to keep theoutsideof the circles in a straight line, move thescrew of the slide-rest inwards half a number: proceed the same till the nine circles are cut, then return to the middle circle by counting back nine turns of the eccentric chuck, nine numbers of the cutter, and four and a half numbers on the slide-rest; proceed exactly in the same way to cut the other eight circles, onlyraisinginstead ofloweringthe eccentric chuck one turn for each circle. The opposite pattern is worked the same, only taking care to turn the slide-rest screw outwards the half turn for every circle, or the straight pattern will come contrary.

In all these straight patterns take great care that the fly-wheel is stopped in such a manner that the eccentric chuck stands perfectly upright: to do this, hold the T square against one side, and make a mark on the brass wheel for the stop to enter. When you are quite sure that the chuck inclines neither to the right nor the left, drill a small hole in the wheel sufficiently deep for the stop to hold it quite firm. You will then find your patterns will always come straight.

Set the cutter to the centre, enlarge the circle six turns, cut one, diminish one number on the cutter for each of the other eight circles, and move the eccentric chuck downwards one turn for each. Count back to the middle circle, and work the other eight the same. The side patterns are done much like those in pattern 5, only the large circle is in the middle, and the straight lines incline inwards.

Set the cutter to the middle of the circle, enlarge it two turns and a half, cut a circle in the middle, turn the chuck down two turns, so as to cut another a little into the former ones; continue the same till the seven are done; return to the middle circle, and cut the other six in the same line, by screwing the eccentric chuck upwards instead of downwards. When the thirteen are completed, lower the chuck one turn, and screw the slide rest outwards (if doing the lines to the right) two turns, cut a circle, then move the eccentric chuck downwardsas before, till the second line of circles is cut, each line diminishing one turn of the eccentric chuck at the top and bottom.

Set the cutter to the middle, enlarge it two turns, turn the slide rest outwards twelve turns, cut a circle near the edge; count 20 on the eccentric chuck wheel, cut another, then 5 more, each distant twenty numbers from each other. To make the circles join in straight lines, screw the eccentric chuck downwards two turns for every one; when the outside pattern is done, return to the middle circle, and cut the other lines the same.

Square patterns require great care in working them. First saw the wood perfectly square; then, when on the lathe, take the T square; hold the flat edge firm on the bed of the lathe, and the handle against one side of the wood, till both are even, then fix the wheel of the eccentric chuck to that number. Having with the cutter worked one row of patterns, move the chuck 30 numbers, which, ifthe wood is quite square, will enable you to do the second row; then 30 more for the third side, and 30 for the last.

We are told, that French and Italian turners often line boxes with the peel of the Bergamot orange; they cut a circle through the peel, and carefully strip it off in two quarters, turning the inside out, and drying them; the scent is very powerful; of course they can only line globular boxes the size of themselves.

As many of my readers may wish to line their snuff-boxes with tortoise-shell, I think it needful to give some instructions in the best method of doing it. Cut the shell into very thin leaves with a sharp fine saw, then divide these into the size you wish for the inside of the snuff-box, leaving a very little extra for the joint. Take a new rough file, and scrape away a little of the twoendsof the narrow strip of shell, so that they can lie one upon another, and fit so closely that the aperture is hardly perceptible. Plunge the tortoise-shell into warm waterfor a few minutes, and it will become quite soft. Have ready on the lathe a piece of wood a littlelessin circumference than the inside of the box, and perfectly round and smooth. While the shell is soft, place the joints together, wrap a wet piece of linen tightly over them to hold them fast, and press them firmly together with the finger and thumb. Then heat a pair of tongs to a proper heat, (which is known by trying them on writing paper; if they brown it, they are too hot; if they only turn it yellow, they are right,) and with them compress the joint of the tortoise-shell. The water, the heat, and the pressure united, will make the two parts join firmly. When finished thus far, file away any roughness that may remain, and steep the shell into hot water till quite soft, then slip it upon the piece of wood before mentioned, and see if it fits it perfectly; if not, try with pressure to give it the requisite shape; and if this does not succeed, take the wood out of the lathe, leaving the tortoise-shell upon it, and hold them over a brazier, turning them frequently and quickly between the hands, that the heat may equally penetrate all the parts; then strike the side that bulged out with a mallet,and with a little care it will soon assume the required form. You may finish it on the lathe, observing only to place it so that the tool does not catch the lap of the joint, which might cause it to open; and when you take it off, plunge it in cold water to make it retain its form.

Make your box and lid of hard, well-seasoned wood; hollow them out, and polish the insides, only omitting to cut the lip upon which the lid fits, and which will be formed by the tortoise-shell. As you hollow out the box and lid, keep fitting in the shell, that you may not make them too large; when it slips in rather tight, take a point tool and cut some circles on the inside of each; (this is done to enable the glue to hold firmly.) Now, take the tortoise-shell and file that part that is to be cemented to the box, so as to make it rough. Take a pair of compasses, in one end of which is a sharp knife, set them to the exact size of the inside of the bottom and lid, then place them on a piece of tortoise-shell, and cut out the two round pieces. Melt some glue till rather liquid, thicken it with vermilion, lay acoat on the inside of the top and bottom of the box, and press in the two circles of tortoise-shell; in the same manner glue in the sides, leaving the lip (upon which the lid is to fit) standing up above the bottom part of the box. Leaving the glue to harden for a day, then replace the work on the lathe, turn the inside quite even, and polish it with pounce powder and oil, then with tripoli powder and water. Should the lid, when finished, become too small for the box, dip it for a minute in boiling water, fit it on to a piece of wood the exact size, and leave it there to harden.

Dissolve three ounces of potash in a pint of boiling water. Let it boil for a quarter of an hour, then pour it into a basin capable of holding about as much again, and in which you have put half a pound of quick lime, stir it well, and when the latter isslacked, add three ounces of red lead and one ounce of vermilion.

When the whole is of the consistency of thick soup, dip a thin pointed stick into it, and lay the drops it will take up upon a piece of horn in thoseparts required to be coloured, leaving those that are to be transparent. When quite dry, clean the whole with a wet sponge, and you will find it will greatly resemble tortoise-shell.

To turn ivory as thin as writing paper, so as to render it quite transparent, is very difficult to accomplish, but is much admired when done, and shows the skill of the artist. To enable the ivory to bear the action of the tool without splitting, the following mastic has been found very useful, both for strengthening it and for giving a deep colouring, by which means the thinness is more perceptible. Some turners wet the ivory for the latter purpose, but as when wet it is quite transparent, and thickens again when dry, the mastic will be found much preferable.

Take some lamp or ivory black in powder, and strain it through a fine sieve, so as only to retain the finest parts. Steep these in water to free them from any impurities. After lying in it a few minutes, pour off the water, and make some glue very hot, mix it with the lamp black till of the consistency of oil paint. This mastic must be keptwarm near the fire, and when you have sufficiently hollowed out the vase, or whatever you wish to turn, very thin, shape the outside a little: then dip a large camel’s-hair brush in the warm varnish and lay a thick coat all over the inside; let this dry, put on another, and repeat the process till sufficient strength is obtained. You may now, without fear or danger, work your ivory as thin as possible, and ornament it with the cutters and drill. Without this mastic it would not, when transparent, bear the force of these tools.

When the work is all finished and carefully polished, take it off the lathe, and put it in a basin filled with warm water. After a few minutes’ immersion, take it out, and plunge it in clean water, shaking it gently. This will make the mastic dissolve and leave the ivory. Renew the warm water frequently, as leaving it in the blackened liquid might injure the colour of the work.

To one quart of spirits of wine add four ounces of lacker, three ounces of gum benzoin, one drachmof camphor, half a drachm of sandarac, half a drachm of dragon’s blood, one drachm of turpentine. Put these ingredients in a long-necked bottle capable of holding two quarts, and tie a piece of wet parchment over the neck; when dry, pierce it with holes with a large pin. Place the bottle in thebain maréetill the contents are perfectly dissolved, shaking it frequently. When cold, strain the liquid through a piece of coarse muslin, and keep it well corked for future use.

Having finished and polished your work with tripoli powder and sand-paper, wipe the wood quite clean with a piece of fine linen. This done, put a few drops of the varnish on a bit of cotton wool, and one drop of olive oil, to prevent its drying too quickly; while applying this varnish, make the lathe wheel go very quick, and hold the cotton close to the work.

To polish the above, when the varnish is perfectly dry, take some finely-powdered whiting or chalk, and with it polish the work in every direction, but be careful not to press too strongly on the varnish, or it will be marked; and do not rub it for more than a few minutes at a time, as the friction andexcessive speed and heat will spoil the polish. When done, take a sponge dipped in water, wash the work well, and then rub it with a piece of fine linen, and a drop or two of olive oil; lastly, clean it with a bit of soft old rag or leather.

Sometimes the workman is too much hurried to wait till the work can be glued upon the chuck; the following cement will be found useful. Take two pounds of Burgundy pitch, one pound of rosin, one pound of colophonium, two ounces of yellow wax, and one ball of whiting. Melt all, except the latter, in an earthen pot, over a slow fire. When it begins to bubble, stir it well with a stick to prevent its passing the edge of the pot, and when all is quite melted take it off the fire. Add the whiting, finely powdered, little by little, stirring in well till the contents are perfectly mixed. Replace the pot on the fire, still stirring it; and after a few minutes, pour all the cement quickly into a tub or basin of cold water for about a minute. Then take it out, and knead it well with the hands. Roll it into sticks upon a smooth stone, and plunge them intocold water to harden. The strength and goodness of this cement depends greatly upon its being made as rapidly as possible. To use it, melt the end of one of the sticks by putting it near the fire; rub it on the chuck; when you think there is sufficient cement laid upon it, heat the bit of wood or ivory you wish to unite to it, and the warmth will make it adhere firmly.

Another cement, that is preferable for using in cold weather, is made by adding two pounds of Burgundy pitch, two ounces of yellow wax, and two pounds of Spanish white. These are melted together, rolled into sticks, and used as above; one stroke of the mallet will detach the work from the chuck when joined with this cement.

Take a sheet of rice-paper, paste it upon letter-paper with flour paste, which must be mixed as smooth as possible, and laid on very thin. Leave it till quite dry, then lay the rice-paper thus backed upon the piece of Turning, and with the thumb nail or a piece of cloth rub the back of the paper, pressingit gently so as to make it enter into all the deep, fine cuts of the Turning. The impression will be beautiful, and have the appearance of a raised medallion. It is invaluable for taking off patterns from ivory, as it can in no way injure the colour or delicacy of the work; and from the facility of bending the paper, impressions can as easily be taken from round articles (as the sides of a box or pillar) as from flat ones. The medallions may be left white, or the pattern coloured with water colours, leaving the ground white; and they can, besides their utility as patterns to which to refer, be employed in ornamenting various useful articles.

In turning the pillars in the temple,pl. 13, great inconvenience and trouble have been found in working them, for want of the support of the puppet G, plate I; for as in each step the eccentric chuck has to be slightly altered, the point, J, of the puppet, when the work is moved, is apt to slide back into the hole it first formed, thus making the steps quite crooked. To obviate this difficulty, I should advise my readers to use the following simple contrivance.Take out the point, J, and replace it by a piece of wood turned to fit exactly into the tube, and on the end of which is left a circular piece the size of a half-crown. Take another bit of wood, of the diameter of your pillar; fix a short nail into the middle of it; glue the other side to the pillar, put it on the lathe, screw up the puppet, G, and you will find the nail will always, whenever you move the chuck, firmly fix itself into the wooden end which replaces the point J.

And now, having, I trust with sufficient clearness, explained the practical and ornamental parts of concentric and eccentric Turning, I will take leave of my readers, only adding that, if they wish to attain perfection in this interesting art, they must patiently continue their exertions, for experience and industry will alone enable them to avoid many faults, and discover the real cause of many failures; and to those who may feel disheartened with repeated disappointments, I will say—

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