CROSBY RAVENSWORTH.

Oh those indeed were merry daysThe merry days of old.

Thevillage of Crosby Ravensworth is remarkably picturesque, being situated near the junction of the stream from Odindale with the Lyvennet; these streams afford marked features of natural beauties, and are enhanced by the splendid sycamore trees in the neighbourhood of the Church and Hall. It is also a very good specimen of villages arranged under the feudal times, when the resident lord of the manor exercised an almost despotic sway over the tenants and other inhabitants. The Hall, therefore, as the manorial residence, would be a centre near which were the dwellings of the villagers. One series of buildings is known as Tenter Row; probably a corruption of The Enter Row, being at one entrance of the village, and thus called in contradistinction to Low Row at the other end. In these would live the tenants immediately dependent on the Hall, while others, not so closely connected, resided further up the village. There is the church also, impropriated to Whitby Abbey by one of the earliest manorial lords. It is dedicated, according to Randal Sanderson, to St. Lawrence; but Rev. Thomas Machell says it was dedicated to St. Leonard. This latter might originate from that hospital at York having lands here. There is a tradition of some religious buildings having existed on the north side of the churchyard, and a great portion of the land belonged; and from it must have originated the names of Monks' Barn, Monks' Bridge and Monks' Garth. Opposite the church is the vicarage, a truly characteristic building; it has undergone many alterations and additions under the late vicars, but is especially indebted to Rev. G. F. Weston, who has enlarged and laid out the grounds with admirable taste.

CROSBY RAVENSWORTH.

Battling Tree, Monks' Bridge, Vicarage and School.

There is the mill, where the tenants were required to grind their grain, subject to the lord's moultre. The inn, too, opposite the church, is a genuine specimen of a village alehouse, with its sign of "The Rising Sun," significant of the landlord's good ale, "always rising never to set," "cheering the heart it never saddens."

Up the village is a large spring; near it stood an ancient elm tree, about which the lazy wives of the village gathered in groups to gossip on the characters of their absent neighbours. The well still flows as usual, but the picturesque old tree is gone; its place is, however, occupied by a young one planted by Mr. Weston.

Another rendezvous of the fair sex was the Battling Tree on the Low Green; but those frequenting this were of a more thrifty class; for on the butt of the tree they were in the habit of battling or beating their homespun webs after immersing them in the water.

OLD HOUSE AT LOW ROW, CROSBY.

Near the Battling Tree are the Butts, where the young men were wont to practise archery and athletic games, such as running, wrestling, throwing geayvelock, &c. They consist of two mounds about 100 yards apart; upon these were erected temporary marks to shoot at. To the practice on these butts we may attribute the skill of the yeomanry as marksmen in times gone by. Every village green had its butts, and the villagers were required by the lord of the manor to practise, so that they might be able to contend with the Scots in case of an invasion, or border foray. In some places the mounds have been levelled away but the name still retained. They are to be found at Reagill near the school, and also at Maulds Meaburn. Time, however, has made great revolutions. These customs are now laid aside, being no longer required, and the houses in which the actors dwelt have undergone alterations more than once, especially Low Row, which was rebuilt in 1860, on the site of the old house seen in the sketch. The previous house bears the date of [ ] and was built by John Hall, a rather noteworthycharacter. When the building was in progress he was so struck with its symmetry that he kept stepping back and back, remarking at every step that it was "farther off an' finer"—"spacious and uniform," till he stepped backwards over into the beck; where, no doubt, his admiration was cooled.

During his life he made himself a monument, unknown to himself—which will bear his name, for centuries perhaps—by planting a clump of trees on an elevated piece of ground on Meaburn Moor; a landmark to all the north of Westmorland, and known to every one as "Johnny Haa' Trees."

Its Architecture, &c.

Thearchitecture of the Church may be best understood from the foregoing illustrations, which require little or no description. The Church was built after the usual cruciform plan, having a nave, chancel, transept, side aisles and tower. The first historic record concerning it is in the year 1140, when it was granted to Whitby Abbey. Previous to this time (if it existed) it would merely be a wooden structure, which would then be replaced by a stone one built after the later Norman style of architecture. Part of this original structure is still to be seen in the massive piers supporting the transept arches. Then again in the early part of the thirteenth century it has been partly pulled down and rebuilt in the early English style. Of this character are the columns and arches of the nave. Similar arches have also been erected upon the old piers in the transept. The change is very marked in one instance, where the arch is brought down and placed upon one of the old low columns, considerably to one side of the capital. At that time the Church would assume the character which it still in general retains. The richly moulded doorway belongs to this period, and also some of the windows, removed when last rebuilt, one of which is in the Churchyard wall. Towards the end of the same century the Decorated Style was introduced, to which the two north windows may be considered to belong. The next style introduced was the Perpendicular, which prevailed in the fifteenth century till near the Reformation. To this belongs the east window, which, from being badly proportioned and not in character with the rest of the architecture, is somewhatobjectionable. To about the same period also belongs the architecture of the Threlkeld Arch and Chapel. The steeple window is another specimen of this style, but of a later period. There is a traditionary record that this tower was built about the same time as that of Shap Abbey, some time in the latter part of the reign of Henry VII.

The next most important change in its architectural history was in 1811. In this and the following year it was in a great measure rebuilt. The roof of the old church was leaded, and where the present new chancel arch is, near to the roof, were twelve small round-headed windows, representing numerically the twelve apostles; these were entirely removed. Most of the other windows were also taken out and replaced by the present ones, which are of a character that deservedly comes under the style The Debased. At this time the embattlements were removed from the tower, and some elaborate work introduced surmounted by pinnacles ornamented with crotchet work; many of the buttresses are also surmounted by similar ones. The porch and chancel doorway were ornamented with elaborately carved work, which though highly creditable to those engaged in the good work of remodelling the sacred edifice, are far from being in accordance with ecclesiastical architecture of the present day. The interior sittings, pulpit, &c., were refitted at the same time, and the interior decorated with texts from Scripture, scroll work, &c., chiefly done by George Gibson, Esq.

Another change in its history took place about 1849, when G. F. Weston was instituted vicar. He began by having the whitewash and plaster removed from all the columns and arches, which were re-hewn. At the expense of himself and friends he built the lofty chancel arch in place of what was before but temporary woodwork, and another arch between the north transept and the small chapel belonging to Crosby Hall. The sittingswere rearranged and the handsome seats introduced in the choir. By the voluntary contribution of landowners, residents, &c., money was raised for erecting a vestry and heating the Church by the circulation of hot water; at which time the body of the Church was somewhat lowered, while the chancel was raised to its proper proportions. Previous to rebuilding in 1811, it was entered by a descent of three or four steps, and was then filled up.

The next objects demanding attention are the monuments. The oldest of these are the Threlkeld tomb and a small incised slab bearing the Hastings arms before noticed. These are in the small side chapel. There is also another, lately removed from the Churchyard into it, having an inscription of a Puritanical character; and from the half obliterated letters it has been to the memory of Ann Wharton, probably one of that family resident at Reagill Grange. Long ago a number of throughstones stood in front of the Church; but these were removed when it was rebuilt, and the stones used as flags, which, with their half obliterated inscriptions, may be seen in different parts of the Church. On one near the doorway may be seen an hour-glass and on another a small cross, and several others of individuals, who, although their names may be still engraven on stone, are themselves quite forgot.

Of modern monuments there is a large one in the south transept to the memory of George Gibson, Esq., of Crosby, erected by public subscription. It displays a good deal of artistic taste, having affixed to it three pieces of sculpture in marble, representing the figures Faith, Hope and Charity.

INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH SHOWING THE THRELKELD TOMB.

The pulpit bears record to the memory of John Salkeld, Esq., of Meaburn Hill; it is tastefully designed in the early English style, and well executed. The stone is a beautiful sandstone, brought from Hause Quarry. The window and its masonry is the work of the Rev. G. F.Weston, in memory of Mary, his first wife. The architecture is very tasteful, and the colouring of the window rich—in the group, Christ receiving little children—are to be seen family likenesses.

The coloured window in the steeple was lately put up in memory of some of the Thwaytes family. A number of neat monuments have of late years been added to the Churchyard, chiefly introduced by the present vicar, to whom not only are the inhabitants indebted for the neatness and comfort of the sacred edifice, but for many material good works as well as spiritual benefits which he has done amongst them; and our earnest wish is that he may still be induced to dwell among us, and that he may long live to fulfil his parochial duties.

Ofthe architecture and character of the Hall little can be said, as it was almost wholly rebuilt about forty years ago. According to a manuscript history of Crosby written by Mr. George Gibson in 1801, he says:—"In the time of the Pickerings it is said to have been a building of stately dimensions in the form of a lofty tower; but this ancient fabric being suffered to decay was totally taken down and removed almost within memory," so that it may now be about 120 or 130 years ago. "The place was fortified with walls, ditches and ponds of water, and numbers of beautiful sycamores were planted all round." If this was the case, these trees must now be upwards of 260 years of age, and are, according to the same author, of the same age as those around Gaythorn Hall. Burn, in describing the Hall in his day, says:—"In the entrance tower are two windows, one above the other, of no mean workmanship; above the door are the letters I.D. for John Dodsworth, who repaired the tower, and cut those letters in the old work. There is a coat of arms, quarterly of eight, which seems to have been put up by the Pickerings." This is now above the door of the present house, and in the window above are some portions of stained glass with a coat of arms, Lowther impaling Fleming. A great portion of the moat is still to be seen; it encloses an area of an irregular oblong; the moat is supplied with water by a spring at the north corner. The entrance, a mantle tower and drawbridge were on the north side, next the Church, where the moat is now completely levelled up. Within this outer moat was another, immediately around the building, which is also still partly traceable.

Associated with the Hall is a curious legend which has been handed down in firm belief for two or three generations. The Hall was almost nightly visited by what was called a dobbie, a supernatural being which was no small terror to the inhabitants, and which made a great excitement in the village at the time. Various accounts are given of its form, sometimes a sheeted skeleton, sometimes a white bull, which was wont to lick the window-panes at night; it chiefly frequented the old tower, and when that was pulled down, it ceased its nightly walks; but not till it disclosed to the old man of the Hall the whereabouts of some hidden treasure, and also the exact time and manner of his death, which, it is affirmed, happened accordingly. Another account is that the old farmer had some hand in making away with the lawful heir, and as a consequence was haunted by the apparition. This version says nothing about the treasure; but his death was foretold, and when it happened the dobbie also departed. The story is well told by Mr. Whitehead, in his Westmorland Legends,—ending thus:—

Sometimes it lick'd the window pane,In shap of a girt white bull;Sometimes it shak'd the mantle tower,Sometimes it towl'd the bell:And thus it carried on for years,To think on't maks yan whidder,Till't auld man cock'd his teas—an' thanThey beaythe went off togidder.

Sometimes it lick'd the window pane,In shap of a girt white bull;Sometimes it shak'd the mantle tower,Sometimes it towl'd the bell:

And thus it carried on for years,To think on't maks yan whidder,Till't auld man cock'd his teas—an' thanThey beaythe went off togidder.

THE DOBBIE OF CROSBY HALL.

Thefirst historic record of Meaburn is in the reign of Henry II, at which time the Barony of Westmorland was in possession of the Morville family. Roger de Morvill had a son and heir, Hugh, and a daughter, Maude. This daughter was married to William de Veteripont, and carried with her in marriage to her husband part of the manor of Meaburn. This manor previously included both the Meaburns (sometimes speltMedburnorMayburn), and all the lands between, called Meaburn Field. The other portion of the manor belonged, in the right of succession, to Sir Hugh; he, being one of the four knights who assassinated Thomas a Becket, his lands were confiscated, and became the property of the King; whence the two divisions of Meaburn were afterwards known asKing'sMeaburn and Maud's or Maulds Meaburn. William de Veteripont then held the manor in right of his wife, and gave four oxgangs of land at Maulds Meaburn to the Hospital of St. Leonard at York. Ivo their son also gave lands to the same hospital, circumscribed by the following limits:—

"From the nether or lower head of Undercot gill, into the syke which is in the upper head, and so all along by the same sike southwards on to the ditch by the highway side which leads from Appleby to Tibbay, and so, nigh unto the public way or street westwards unto the boundary of Askeby, unto the mills, and unto the ground which the said Ivo had before given to aforesaid hospital."

Ivo de Veteripont was brother to Robert, to whom King John granted the confiscated lands of Sir Hugh de Morville, and made him Baron of Westmorland. Ivo was succeeded by his son Robert, who gave to the Abbey ofShap 22s. yearly, to be paid out of Maulds Meaburn in the name of alms corn. In 1243 Robert granted the manor to John le Fraunceys, son of Hugh, to hold to him and his heirs, rendering yearly for all services one pound of cumin.

This payment was to Ivo, but there were other services to be performed to the Barons of Westmorland, paramount lords of the fee. John le Fraunceys granted on the other hand that Johan, daughter of Ivo, should peaceably have and hold the several lands and tenements granted to her by her father, with the service of villans and bondsmen.

In 1257 Philip le Fraunceys had a grant of free warren in Westmorland and Cumberland. He had a son Gilbert, whose son Richard married a daughter of Sir Michael de Harclay, then the King's ward, about 1278.

In 1292 occurs the name of John Franceys of Cliburn, of an ancient family there, as a juror in a case at Appleby, and also in 1307; so that it is probable the family of Frauncis holding Meaburn, and holding and living at Cliburn were of the same stock. In 1315, at the death of Robert de Clifford, the inquisition finds that Richard de Frauncis held of him the manor of Meaburn Maud and Whale, by homage and fealty and the cornage of 33s. and the wardship, worth 40s. In 1342 Isabella de Vernon held Meaburn, the family of Frauncis having doubtless ended in a daughter married to Vernon. The name Richard de Vernon occurs as holding the manor in 1370, 1392 and also in 1423, including Whale, by cornage of 33s. In 1519 we find a Richard Vernon of Nether Haddon, Derby, holding lands in Newby and succeeded by a son George, doubtless of the same family. In 1553 we find Sir George Vernon, Knight, lord of the manor of Maulds Meaburn by the like previous services. He was succeeded by Sir Thomas Stanley, Knight, who sold it to Sir Richard Lowther, Knight, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth.

Sir Richard Lowther gave his tenants of Maulds Meaburn their choice to hold their tenancies after the customs of any one of a certain number of manors. They chose Ravenstonedale, then under Philip, Lord Wharton, and the copy of an indenture made between Philip, Lord Wharton, and his tenants in the 3rd and 4th of Philip and Mary and also in the 22nd of Elizabeth was to stand as an indenture between Richard Lowther and his tenants of Maulds Meaburn. Sir Richard Lowther, during his life, gave the manor to his eldest son, Christopher, and he also confirmed the indenture; but when he came into possession he was so heavy in his exaction of service from his tenants that they refused in many cases to comply, alleging that such was not the custom in Ravenstonedale, nor named in the indenture. The consequence was an appeal to some court of law.[13]

The land at that time was for the most part unenclosed, and was known as Oxgang, Demain and Improved Lands, or lands enclosed. The most important of the last were the Cow Pasture and the Ox Close; the latter had been enclosed sixty years previous to this period, and contained about 100 acres. The Cow Pasture, 250 acres; they were both used as common pasture. Another large enclosure was the Park, at that time fenced half way round with a wall of stone, and the other half with quickset hedge. Dryevers, Mires, Flass, Garth and others were enclosed about thirty years previously. For these improved lands the lord demands 12d. an acre and eight years fine; thetenants refuse, and it is proved that such were laid on in his father's time, and the Demain lands were raised 13s. 4d. in lieu. Then again he wishes the tenants of all lands that were Demain to pay eight years fine. In this he is defeated, it being ordered that they were to enjoy them for one year's fine, on account of having compounded with his father, and paying £500 and so having the customs alleviated.

According to the relation of John Lambe of Kirkby Stephen, aged ninety years, there were, when he lived at Maulds Meaburn, sixty years before, seventy-four oxgangs of land (the oxgang land was the greatest portion), and that then, and in the time of his father, the tenants paid 5s. for each oxgang as rent due to the lord yearly, paid at Pentecost and St. Martin's, and 7d. likewise as a mylne ferme, in respect of grinding corn; for this reason, their moulter was very light, only one peck of meal for ten bushels, and also the same for every ten bushels of shillings. The Demain lands also paid the same.

This Christopher denies, claims the 7d. as part of the rent, and that they ought to pay moulter after the rate his witnesses say is done in Ravenstonedale, namely, for all corn ground at the lord's mylne, except oats, they pay the 30th part of corn unground, and one 30th part in meal after being ground, and for shilling oats one 13th part for shilling and for making groats of the same one 30th part and for grinding the same into meal one 30th part. The tenants refuse, and the miller, at the command of Mr. Lowther, refuses to grind; so they carry to the neighbouring mills of Barnskew, Crosby, King's Meaburn and Rutter, at the same time saying they are not compelled to grind at his mill at any rate, except for a certain portion of land. This rouses his anger considerably, and he reminds his oxgang tenants that it is their duty to keep in repair the millstones, wheels, hopper, and race pertaining to the mill. The case was brought before the Queen's Counsellors at York, and it was ordered that suitbe done to Mr. Lowther's mill only for 154 acres and 32 perches of the oxgang land; that for oats only are they bound to Mr. Lowther's mill; and for all other grain they can go where they will. This order is dated 31 Queen Eliz., 1589, and as affirmed, was publicly read to and served upon about thirty of the wayward tenants on Meaburn Green, hard by The Crosse thereupon; but they were either not there, or being a stubborn set, heeded it not; for Mr. Lowther's mill was still deserted; law was again referred to, and from the evidence given there were various infringements of the order; amongst the rest Thomas Kitchen of Wickerslack borrowed a peck of big of a neighbour, and got half of it ground at Crosby and the other half at Barnskew. However, to set all right a commission was ordered to set out the 154 acres, 32 perches. After much difficulty it was settled and a list drawn out of the occupiers, areas and names of the lands where each piece was situated. They are scattered all over the township, each tenant having a portion, and curiously enough the names are those retained by fields at the present day, with scarcely any alteration.

Mr. Lowther requires a general fine of one year's rent on the change of the lord, in lieu of which it is agreed: The tenants to pay 100 nobles on St. Peter's or Lammas next at the Feast of Pentecost, if Christopher Lowther and his brother Jerrard will be bound that it shall not be changed for eight years after October 11th, 1592. He next wishes to have imposed a running fine or gressome, which in Ravenstonedale is £12 15s. 5d., paid by a certain number of the ancient customary or oxgang tenants every seven years. The tenants of Oxgang land had to pay 25s. 8d. as boon rent yearly, and those of the Demain; after the rent they took their tenements with or without boon. The lord demandeth boon days over and beside, but in this case is defeated.

Another complaint is that the tenants do not comply with the following custom in Ravenstonedale, namely:If the lord or his officers cause a tree to be felled on any man's tenement, whoever gets the tree has to pay 2d. to the tenants, who also had the top, and was bound to fence up the gap or stoven till it was out of harm from cattle; if he neglected this, he had to pay 6d. to the lord for each stoven not fenced up. Also each tenant had to plant three ashes on his tenement each year, and two for every tree felled, for the increase of wood. Some of these demands, however, he could not succeed in having fulfilled.

Another grief is that the Demain tenants have unlawfully felled scores of ash trees in the park, and spoiled the coppice or young wood for spring. The tenants say it grew on part of their own tenements, and if they had gone beyond bounds, they had been cleared at the late court.

Another service disputed was the carrying of coals. The tenants of Maulds Meaburn had to carry sixty horseloads, every and each horseload containing two bushels after the measure used at the pit; they had to bring them from wherever Mr. Lowther chose to buy them, which was on Stanemore, and to carry them to his residence, which was at Lowther. They had to give notice to Mr. Lowther, each when he was going to bring his share, and Mr. Lowther was bound to pay the bringer the price he paid for them at the pit. Christopher complains that they do not bring their yearly suit, and are behindhand for the last year, twenty-five bushels. The tenants say he refused to pay them for the coals they brought. To remedy this Mr. Lowther has to pay for the coals at the pit first, which if not done, the tenants shall not be obliged to carry them.

Another grief is that Mr. Lowther had felled trees in the park, and wished the tenants to spring and fence; this they refused to do, and even pulled down the fences there were, and thus it remained for some time. It was finally concluded by a commission being sent to set out what ought to be springed. The first part was the lowerpart of the park, next the Lyvennet, which was to be cut and then well fenced for seven years. The next portion is the north part of the park, which was to be cut at the lord's pleasure, and then fenced as spring for seven years. The next was the south corner of the park, to be cut, also at the pleasure of the lord, and then fenced for seven years; but only one of the three parts to be fenced at one time, and at any time after these springs have had sixteen years growth. Mr. Lowther or his heirs may cut down the hazel and birks at twenty-one years growth, and the ashes at thirty years growth; it was also ordered that the tenants should fence the first, as their cattle were most likely to have the grass, Mr. Lowther being resident at a distance, but who was to fence the other two was not decided.

The fiercest squabble of all was the following. Christopher Lowther caused to be erected, as he and his witnesses affirm, a little court-house, on the middle of Meaburn Green; a number of workmen were at work upon it, and it was on the point of being finished, the frame and timber was set up; lathed and sparred, and thatched with straw on one side. At this time, being the 22nd October, 1585, a large number of the wives of the tenants, instigated by their better halves, abused the workpeople and Mr. Lowther, and even threw stones at them. This did not cause them to desist building, so on the night of the 28th, a number of the tenants, headed by James Fletcher, armed themselves with pitchforks, handsaws, axes, long-piked sticks, swords, daggers, and other unlawful engines, and levelled it to the ground. Mr. Lowther wished to have recompense for the timber destroyed, and the pullers-down punished. This trial is held at York, where the tenants and their wives had to appear in defence; in which they say that what Christopher affirms is all utterly untrue about their unruly conduct: that according to the indenture the lord could not build on the waste without general consent of thetenants; that if he was allowed to build this he would build others: they had spoken to him quietly, but he refused to listen, and so they pulled it down, for by so doing he was infringing upon the green within the town gates on which they grassed their horses for service upon the Borders; they say the house was a large one, intended for a court-house and for Mr. Lowther to put his horse in when he visited the town. A recompense of £8 seems to have been awarded him, and the pullers-down fined, some to £3 6s. 2d. and some to 40s. This does not satisfy, and he brings the trial on again, but does not seem to succeed, only in obtaining a decree to have a piece of waste ground on which to build a court-house.[14]

These disputes have been examined before commissioners who held courts at different places, some bearing date from Kirkby Stephen, Morland Church and Brougham Chapel; but when the cases were brought before the Queen's Counsellors, they are dated at "Eboracum."

The names of those called as witnesses give some light as to the residence of the neighbouring gentry, or those who lived in the manorial houses. At Reagill Grange lived Anthony Wharton, who some time was in tenure and occupation of Meaburn Mill. At Shap Abbey lived Richard Wharton, gent., who, as well as he at Reagill Grange, were members of the Wharton family to whom the lands of Shap Abbey were granted. At Little Strickland lived John Rigg, Esq.; his father was steward of the manorial courts at Maulds Meaburn in Sir George Vernon's time. At Craik Trees lived Ambrose Lancaster, aged eighty years, and also Thomas Lancaster, both of whomwere strenuous supporters of the lord of the manor. The disputes have evidently been very warmly contested by both parties, some of the cases standing on for five or six years. There are also accusations of base and wilful perjury. Whether the courts granted justice in every case or not, we know not; but the truth seems to have been often tampered with. At last Christopher Lowther, in summing up his griefs, concludes by praying to have an end of suits, and says he has been kept so for ten years by his tenants, that he has become impoverished, and having so many children he is utterly unable to do Her Highness' service upon the Borders, according as he is bound, as others of his calling. The tenants humbly reply that they too wish an end of suits; they too are impoverished; but that Mr. Lowther has always been plaintiff against them.

Another important service due to the lord, but about which they have not had dispute, was the Border service. When this service was required by the Prince, the lord's steward sent a letter to the bailiff and constables telling them what service was required, and with how many men. These they appoint and muster in great haste, some on horse and some on foot, according to their rate. Four men were also sworn to rate the charges for victuals and carriage in such journeys as going to the Borders required. This tax was levied only when summoned to go. Those who refused to go when warned were sent by the bailiff to the warden to receive what punishment he chose to inflict. In 1595 a list has been made out bearing the date February 19th of that year, of all men musterable in the Lordship of Maulds Meaburn for this service, of tenants and young men from sixteen to sixty years of age, levied by the constables, James Fletcher, Robert Atkinson, Anthony Wharton, Richard Hodgeson and John Winter, and Mr. Christopher Lowther, Esq., Landlorde of ye Lordship, and Leader of ye men; 39 on this list are entered as "archers furnished," each having to serve with"a nag;" one of these, it appears, is "deceased," two "under age," and three having substitutes entered as "his son."

The next list is "Tenants that are footmen" 59 in number, of whom 18 are archers furnished, 7 entered as archers, 2 as billmen, 16 not furnished, and 15 before whose names is the letter F. These were the fighting men, besides whom is a list of 28, who are "sons, and men not being tenants." From an abstract of the muster for Border service within the counties of Cumberland and Westmorland, taken in 1584, that of the two counties amounted to 8350, of whom Westmorland furnished 4142; 1400 of these were archers furnished, 1300 billmen furnished, 1342 able men unfurnished, and 100 light horsemen furnished amongst the gentlemen and their household servants. The mustering places were Sandford Moor, where mustered 1981, Greenholme 2669, and Strickland Moor 1269. The last place was the rendezvous of the Maulds Meaburn tenants. There is still a lingering tradition of the last as a mustering place. In 1618 Mr. C. Lowther was in a special commission with Lord Wharton and Lord William Howard and others for repressing disorders on the Borders. When King James I came into England on his accession to the Crown, in 1603, he attended him with a gallant company from the Borders of Scotland to Newcastle, where the King conferred upon him the order of knighthood, and there is little doubt but that in that gallant company were some of the staunch yeomanry of Maulds Meaburn. In the list of names for those deputed to serve on the Borders are five Robinsons, five Parkins, five Winters, five Harrisons, four Teasdales, four Whartons, three Fletchers, two Salkelds, two Kitchens, &c. But by far the most numerous are the Addysons, who mustered 16; a name now quite extinct in the parish.

TheManor House of Maulds Meaburn originally stood on the site of the present Hall, but we have no record of any of the manorial families residing at it. The present Hall has been built at different times. The oldest portion is the north part of the body of the Hall. It has originally been nearly square, and lofty, somewhat in the character of a tower. This has been strongly built of hewn sandstone. This old portion may be traced by having around the bottom a champhered basement. This portion, has, however, been so much altered, re-roofed and built around, that it is difficult to form a correct idea of its original features. Afterwards the buildings have been extended; the south side has been partly pulled down and extended in that direction, forming an oblong, to the ends of which have been added wings. The south wing has two large rooms on the ground floor, one of which is wainscoted in the old Elizabethan style, and also one of the upper rooms; these are gained by a broad oaken staircase, which forms a projection on the west end of the wing. These rooms are lighted by large mullioned windows, and a tall projecting chimney gives a marked feature to the south front. A corresponding wing has been built at the other end, which projects beyond the north end of the old building. This has been used as a subordinate part of the house, in which were the wine-cellars, store-rooms, &c. At the same time also has been added to the north-west side of the old part a series of lower buildings, serving as kitchens, laundry, &c., and servants' rooms in general. Still later, the central part or large hall, between the old Hall and south wing has been pulled down, and again rebuilt in a mere vulgar andtemporary style; at which time the present door and chief entrance has been made. Above it, in bas-relief, a date of 1610, but at some after time it has been changed; the 10 being made to represent 76, by incising a top to the 1, making it 7; and also a top to the 0, making it 6.

MEABURN HALL, SOUTH FRONT.

This date in its present form raises a query: Is it a doorway of the oldest part of the Hall, removed to its present position, and recording the date of its first erection? If so, it must have been built in Sir Christopher Lowther's time, three years after he came into possession of his father's estate. The date, however, is not very reliable, but it is very probable that it was built by his son, John Lowther, Esq., afterwards Sir John, upon whom, and his wife Ellinor, daughter of William Fleming, Esq., of Rydal, a settlement was made of the manor of Maulds Meaburn in 1615; and after coming into possession he purchased eight tenements, which make up the present demesne of Maulds Meaburn Hall; for in his time there was scarcely any left, the lands having been previously so parcelled out amongst the religious societies. Sir J. Lowther was one of the knights of the county in 21st James I, and also in three Parliaments in Charles I's reign. He bought the manor and part of the demesne of Crosby of Thomas Pickering, Esq., and then gave it in marriage with his daughter Frances to John Dodsworth. He also bought half of the demesne of Reagill. For his second son Christopher he bought the Whitehaven estates. This Christopher married a coheiress, daughter of Christopher Lancaster of Craik Trees, and by purchasing the interest of the other two sisters added the whole of the Lancaster property to the Lowthers of Whitehaven. Sir John died in 1637, and according to a memorandum extant, his widow lived afterwards at Maulds Meaburn Hall, where she died in 1659; and by her last will and testament left the sum of £35 to the poor of Maulds Meaburn. The returns of this not being used till 1687, the person on whose land it was, was required to make itup to £40, and pay 40s. yearly; which was done: from which time it was regularly divided up to 1770. The first few years there were between 20 and 30 recipients, but they have dwindled down to 15, 12, and as low as nine.

Sir John was succeeded in the estates by his eldest son, Sir John Lowther, who in 1640 was created a Baronet of Nova Scotia. He was a great sufferer for the royal cause in the reign of Charles I, and during the usurpation lived retired; but was one of the Knights for Westmorland in the Parliament which restored Charles II. His eldest son died during his father's life, so that he was succeeded in the family estate by his grandson, Sir John Lowther, who afterwards received the epithet of "The Rich." To his second son Richard he gave the manor of Maulds Meaburn. This Richard lived at Meaburn Hall, and was chosen Member for Appleby in 1688 and 1690. To him may we attribute the general enlargement and extension of the Hall, and the laying out of the grounds in the way in which they still remain. These improvements, to all appearance, correspond in character to about the time of the altered date—1676.

At a short distance to the north of the Hall are a number of subordinate buildings, of barns, stables, &c., of more or less modern erection, the oldest of which is a well-built block on which is a square tablet having the initials R.L., Richard Lowther, and the date of their erection, 1693.

Another remarkable building stands near the road, known as Fletcher Hall; it is a lofty building, of about seven yards square, containing one lower room and one upper; it is entered by a door on the east side, and the lower room lighted by a window of three lights in the north; the upper story is lighted by two similar windows on the east side. Its use was probably as a residence for the stewards or managing bailiff of the lords of the manor, and from this has derived its name "The Fletcher" fromfamilies of that name. These have been an influential family in Meaburn for many generations. In 1618 we find record in the register of the death of James Fletcher of Meaburn Hall Fold, and there are Fletchers recorded so far back as 1588. The present Fletcher has been rebuilt at the same time that the buildings of the Hall were extended.

The grounds have been laid out in the then fashionable Elizabethan style, and tradition yet affirms that they were at one time the finest gardens in the north. The entrance from the road is by a doorway with cheeks of solid masonry surmounted by balls, and a court on each side, mantled with ivy. Within this is a large level area in front of the Hall, flanked on each side with a row of now ancient yews; passing to the left through another doorway we come to the south front. Here is another large open quadrangle, laid out as a bowling green with a raised terrace on three sides; at the south-east and south-west corners are two garden houses in which the players might regale themselves in the intervals of the play. Running between these is a row of yew overhanging the once gravelled esplanade, which is ascended from the green by a few ornamental steps. Along the lateral terraces were also at one time yews and spruces; the former are all gone, and the latter represented by a few remarkably tall and half-blasted trunks of spruces, towering far above the surrounding trees. To the south of the green is an area covered with a number of remarkably tall trees; this is surrounded by a high wall, alongside of which on the south side are a row of yews overshadowing what have once been neat walks. After making an angle, this wall, forming the western boundary of the grounds, runs direct to the north, where the road forms the boundary. The garden is entered from the field outside by three postern doors. Within the wall is a broad, raised terrace, running the whole length; ornamented with here and there a holly, yew or laburnum, all ofwhich, like the other trees, have gained a large size. Along the north wall are also rows of yews, some of which have fallen victims to the axe.

In the back garden is a large well, walled around, five yards by three. This supplies a large stream which flows direct north; on the east bank is a row of yews, and on the other, laburnums, which in summer enliven with their gay flowers their dark and sombre neighbours. Overtopping these on each side is a row of gigantic Scotch firs, the largest in the surrounding district. The extensive area included in these grounds have been ornamented by walks and shrubs, the latter of various kinds, fantastically cut. The last which disappeared was two rows of box, forming a long walk amongst lawns or flower beds. All the different rows of yews, hollies, &c., have in the times of the Hall's splendour been trimmed and kept cut, and afterwards allowed to grow their own natural way, which in their present neglected state are perhaps finer than when they received the tender nursing care of the gardeners. All this was no doubt done by Richard Lowther, when wealth was pouring into the hands of the family, at a time when a princely residence was the great ambition of the nobility and gentry.

After these tasteful decorations of the residence followed the beautifying of the neighbourhood. The park was planted with the present trees, which though now few, are noble specimens of what were, in the memory of those still living, so close and thick and dark that no vegetation flourished beneath them. The thick forest of oaks in the Mains would also be planted, with the avenues of yews and holly. The oaks have disappeared, and a young spring has overgrown the whole. The most remarkable neighbouring feature is the avenue on Morland Bank. This is a long, elevated piece of land, stretching out into the low-lying holmes, and probably its name is a corruption of Mer—or Mireland, from the marshes around. This has been planted on each sidewith Scotch firs, forming an avenue of about a mile in length. The trees are traditionally said to have been brought from Lowther, and were, at the time of planting, a cart load each. From being so large when planted, they never attained so great a height. At the north end are Ratla Park and Hard Bank plantations, of about the same age. Of this we have a good guess: a man of the name of Wharton, who died about 55 years ago, aged 90, assisted in his youth to plant them; so that it will be about 130 years ago; while the yews and park at Meaburn Hall, if planted soon after the erection of the present Hall, may be about 180 or 190 years old. We are no doubt indebted also to Robert, afterwards Governor Lowther, son of Richard, who would follow in the footsteps of his father in beautifying the lovely valley, in which it was their lot to be placed. Nature had formed a district having great capabilities, and with all respect to the memories of those men, they have done their duty towards it with most praiseworthy taste, and what is chiefly to be regretted is, there are none to follow their footsteps, but "hewers of wood and drawers of water."

In the year 1700, Richard purchased Crosby Hall and the manor of Margaret Bayly. He married Barbara, daughter of Robert Pricket, Esq., of Wresal Castle, Yorkshire, and died about the year 1704. He was succeeded by his eldest son, Robert Lowther, who was sometime store-keeper of the Tower, and in 1716 was appointed Captain-General and Governor-Chief of Barbadoes. He married a lady by whom he became possessed of an extensive property in Barbadoes. She died, and it appears he returned to reside at Meaburn Hall, and brought with him a great quantity of sugar and rum, which was stored in the wine-cellar; and tradition still retains a vivid recollection of the superior quality of the Governor's rum. For his second wife he married Catherine, daughter of Sir Joseph Pennington, Baronet; and issue two sons and three daughters.

Robert Lowther, Esq., from his patrimony and landed property, no doubt was an influential man in the neighbourhood. According to a valuation made the year before his death, his property in Meaburn is valued at £105; the next highest is John Salkeld, £41; the whole valuation of the lordship being £698 10s. It was his intention to rebuild the Hall; with this in view he had plans made, and a new site chosen amongst the yew trees in the south-east corner of Stonycrofts, opposite the Mills. He had kilns erected for burning bricks in Eelmires, for that purpose, the remains of which may still be seen, and got so far as to pull down the middle part of the Hall; but his schemes were doomed never to be perfected, all further advance being stopped by his death, which took place in 1745. His death is said to have been caused by the Rebellion. The Lowthers were ever staunch Royalists, and either himself or his son James held out some favourable support to the encouragement of the Pretender; after whose misfortunes Robert, being of a very nervous and timorous disposition, became so perplexed and afraid of the consequences that it injured his health and was the cause of his death. He was buried beneath the Threlkelds' tomb in Crosby Church. He was succeeded by his eldest son James, afterwards known as Jammy Lowther.

This James, by the death of his father, by the death of Henry, Viscount Lowther, of Lowther, who died without issue, and by the death of Sir William Lowther, Bart., of Whitehaven,[15]who also died without issue, became possessed of the three great estates of Meaburn, Lowther and Whitehaven. James Lowther represented the counties of Cumberland and Westmorland for several years inParliament, and was elevated to the peerage in 1784 by the titles of Baron Lowther of Lowther, Viscount Lowther, and Earl of Lonsdale; consequently he was the first Earl. He was born at Meaburn Hall, where he resided at different times while the Hall at Lowther was in ruins, being burnt down about 1720. There is every reason to believe Meaburn was his favourite residence, where he kept a large establishment, of which the dairy over the bridge bears unmistakeable evidence. He also stocked the park with deer; and there are many yet living who can remember the last of them being removed to Lowther.

Back to Index Next