Monday, October29.—On Saturday night there was such a gale from the north-west, and the sea was higher than it was all the winter, washing right up to the cliffs. We found sad destruction in the garden on Sunday morning, the flowers and vegetables being shrivelled up as if there had been a severe frost, even the grass and docks looked black; the peas which were in a most flourishing condition are ruined. Almost the only flowers that have not succumbed are those that were sheltered. Next year I shall try walled divisions on the flower-beds. Happily, the wind was not so severe at the potato patches, and they have been damaged but little.
Mrs. Lavarello is suffering from a bruised leg caused by a fall on the rocks when fishing. We urged upon her the need of resting it, but she thought she could not because of her work. It is now so painful she is obliged to keep it up almost entirely. I shall try to see her each day. This afternoon Graham and I went for a long walk along the shore. Rain coming on we tried to scale the cliff, but had to come down and return by the shore, the wind and rain beating in our faces. By the time we got home we were wet through, but felt all the better for the outing.
Tuesday, October30.—A very wet day. No Women's Meeting.
Wednesday, October3l.—We had been saying it looked as if the month were going out without our seeing a ship, when to-day one appeared just after school. Some of the men were out in a boat fishing, but were signalled to by a fire being lit. They got back quickly, and the boats started off by about two o'clock. It was bitterly cold and the sea rough. Another ship was seen in the afternoon.
Thursday, November1.—The men returned last night. The ship was a French one bound for Adelaide. They were not able to get any flour, but got ship biscuits, a good quantity of rice, which, however, has weevils in it, and a little coffee. Mrs. Repetto came in this evening with some of the biscuits. I said I could not take them, but she would not hear of "no."
To-day Glass and Tom Rogers have been putting up some small gates, made by the latter, at the two entrances of the pathway leading to the front of the house. They had to build up a part of one entrance with large square stones; wood is scarce so the gates have to be small. With them we feel much more private. Henry has given us some green paint of quite a nice shade for the outside window-frames to match the green gates. The house is beginning to have quite a respectable appearance.
I fear Mrs. Lavarello will be laid up some time with her leg. CharlotteSwain bathes it three times a day. Mrs. Lavarello is a sister of JohnGlass. She has been very kind to us in constantly sending fish and eggs.
We had a second gale the other day which blighted the potatoes, in fact, quite cut them down. But the men say that with the rain which has fallen since they will come on again. The flowers are already reviving.
[Illustration: EARLY MORNING FROM THE WEST, SHOWING SNOW IN CREVASSE, NEARPEAK]
Fourteen cattle died last week due to the wet and cold, making the number of deaths three hundred and seventy.
Thursday, November8.—We were knocked up yesterday morning soon after five by Repetto, who came to tell us that a steamer was in sight and that they were going off to it immediately. In about ten minutes he was here again for the letters. I was in my dressing-gown finishing a letter to A——. Graham was finishing another to his sister and had to run down to the boat with it. He was just in time, but had to wade into the water to hand it in. The steamer had borne down upon the settlement very rapidly. Graham so regretted he hadn't gone when he saw how close it had come in. We felt we had perhaps lost an opportunity of a passage to the Cape we might not get again, but really there was not time to dress and be off. Graham worked off his disappointment by polishing away at the boots and shoes. The men were soon back. The captain said he could only wait half-an-hour, but stayed an hour. He let them have 300 lbs. of flour and some other goods. Repetto was able to get some of the things we asked him to try for, namely, bacon, lemons, a ten-pound tin of butter and some apple-rings. The captain sent his kind regards and sent me a special offering of tea and sugar. We have given the tea to the people as they had none. The steamer was bound for Durban, and the captain, who was here the year before, said he hoped to return in a month, and if he did would bring more flour for the people. The islanders had to pay in cash. A passenger on board presented them with a sovereign to buy food. The captain would not let us pay for anything. Two and a half years later when we arrived home in England we heard of another kind deed of the captain. He had kindly taken charge of the letters to post at Durban, and noticing one bearing our name most kindly sent to the address copies of some photographs which he had that morning taken of the island. The fine view facing this page is one of them. We have been scanning the papers and have obtained a considerable amount of information from them. The steamer hailed from a Cumberland port, and in a Maryport paper was a speech of F——'s at Workington in support of the Liberal candidate. In the same paper we read with regret of the death of Sir Wilfrid Lawson. In another was an account of the fires on the Malvern Hills, and in a third a long article on the "Welcome." [Footnote: A Restaurant and Home for girls, Jewin Street, London.] The sugar was done up in a Birmingham paper from which, however, we did not extract much beyond the attempt on the Russian Premier's life. We feel we have come quite in touch with the world again.
On Monday there is to be another meeting about the trading schooner, but we doubt if much will come of it. It appears from a book Repetto has that the Cape duty on imported animals is rather high, and the men do not seem inclined to come down in their prices. We are seriously contemplating the future as regards food. We have been taking stock and find our stores are getting very low. If we knew definitely a gun-boat was coming and would bring our stores it would be all right, but alas we do not. One cannot get very much from passing ships, so Graham is rather anxious we should go to Cape Town to get a supply of food, if for nothing else. I expect it will end in our going if a chance occurs.
Ellen is busy making a pale blue nun's-veiling blouse for Emma Hagan. You would hardly have thought there would have been such vanities here. The material was sent by some relations at the Cape. Every one tries to have a new garment for Christmas Day, and some of the material which was brought by theSurreyis being kept for this purpose. I have been making a pinafore out of a faded muslin blind for Sophy Rogers who is very short of clothes; after being ironed it looks very nice and has given great pleasure.
Friday, November9.—The strawberries are just beginning to ripen; they are very small and more like wild ones. I have put zinnia seeds straight into the ground, and shielded with tins they are coming up quite strongly. The stocks have borne the wind better than any other flower. Marvel of Peru is coming up strongly too.
Monday, Novemberl2.—We have had such a warm day, which makes us feel summer is coming.
Yesterday in the midst of morning service one man after another went out, and shortly I saw two little boats on the sea. A whaler had appeared and all the men had gone out to her. We were sorry, for it meant trading on a Sunday, and the people were not now short of food; but one must not be too hard upon them. The whaler is from America and will probably be here for two or three days. The islanders like a whaler better than any other vessel, with the exception of a man-of-war, as it brings material as well as food to trade with, and is glad of fresh meat and potatoes in exchange. I can see the ship so clearly, the sun lighting up its white sails.
The meeting about the schooner took place this afternoon. One or two at the last meeting got rather heated, but all were very quiet to-day. They were not ready, however, to lower their prices and so nothing was done. But, later, Henry Green and Repetto came in to say they had been round, and the men had arranged to sell at a lower price so as to make it possible for a schooner to come.
The rats are beginning to appear again. Last night we had a constant tapping overhead; and this morning to her dismay Ellen found our breakfast had been eaten up by them. The bacon had been placed on the window-sill outside, a dish over it, and a heavy stone on the top. It was not a great loss as it was hardly eatable. The milk-jug was also knocked over and the precious milk spilt. We hope we shall be able to get some extra food from the whaler; and some cocks and hens!
Tuesday, Novemberl3.—Yesterday shortly after we left morning school Mrs. Bob Green rushed in to tell us William had seen a seal on the beach, and that her husband had killed it, but that she had asked him not to skin it till we had seen it. We went to look and saw a small party on the rocks. Two seals had been secured, which was quite a find as a good price can be had for the skins. Seals rarely come in here now, but a dozen or so may be caught at Inaccessible.
We are having a whole holiday to-day owing to the presence of the whaler. The men did not board her yesterday as there was a fog, and when it cleared off and she came in it was too late for them to go out. They went off this morning. Every one is in the greatest excitement. Dressed in their best all went down to the beach to meet Betty and Martha's nephew, Joe Beetham, who was coming on shore from the whaler. He was first brought in here. Graham had met him at Cape Town; since then he has been to America, where his home is. He has brought a large box of things for Betty Cotton from her relatives there, which has quite cheered her up. I think she is the only one on the island who does not care about living here. The islanders have gone off again to the ship to make purchases. Beetham told us the whaler is calling at Mauritius, so Graham has written a line to the Bishop as he might like to hear how we are getting on.
I have started packing, for we must be ready to be off at any instant; even at five o'clock in the morning!
Sunday, Novemberl8.—The men did not get back from the whaler till nearly midnight. The captain seemed a somewhat difficult man to deal with and undoubtedly got the best of the bargaining. His wife was on board, and most kindly sent us a parcel of jams and soap.
Mrs. Sam Swain, senior, has a little girl, born last Friday. Her eldest girl Charlotte is twenty-two. This birth makes the population seventy-eight.
To-day a ship was to be seen in the far distance, it has been hanging about; four of the men have gone out to it.
Graham spoke this morning to the people in church about Sunday trading. He said he saw no harm in going out to a ship on a Sunday, but that they ought not to trade on that day unless they were in real need. Mr. Dodgson was very strong on this point.
We are ready packed so far as we can be when our boxes are our chests-of-drawers. I think Ellen will manage all right while we are away. She likes the people, and if she feels lonely can have one of the children to stay with her. She will teach a little.
We have been thinking a good deal the last day or two of this time last year when we were starting forth. It is a year to-day since we left Southampton.
Tuesday, November20.—On Monday morning four of the men put out to a ship going east, but she had got too far for them to reach her, a squall driving her further out. It is curious to think that any day we may be on our way to the Cape, but perhaps we shall not get there at all.
A meeting was held last Thursday to consider the quantity of food-stuff a schooner should bring in exchange. It will be a great boon to the people if we can get one to come. We think they would do much better if they would go in more for sheep-breeding and keep fewer cattle. The return would be much quicker; and the shipping of them much easier; and as the weather here is uncertain the loading is an important matter. The sheep are small, but the mutton is good. I do not think this place is suited for cattle; it is too exposed; and the people lay themselves out so little to provide either shelter or food for them. It is quite nice to see a few cattle again grazing on the settlement which has been so destitute of them.
Potatoes are now coming in, but the people do not like to begin eating them too soon.
Wednesday, November21.—Graham has had an afternoon of it. First there was a Confirmation Class, then another meeting about the schooner. The food-list had to be revised and a list made of the requirements of each family. Arrangements were also made as to our getting off from here. If a steamer is sighted we are both to go at once; if a sailing vessel, which will be much less likely to be going to South Africa, Graham will go off with the men in the first boat. A second boat will await the signal from the ship as to whether or no we can be taken. If we can I shall at once embark in it with the rest of the men. Lots were drawn as to who should go in the first boat. Of course, they like to be in the first as they then have a greater chance of bargains.
In order to prevent delay in going out to a ship there is an excellent system by which each family in turn has to provide the oxen, sheep and geese needed for the public trading. The stuff in exchange for these is divided round equally. The rule is for this public trading to be done first. After it is over any who like can do private trading. They offer for barter all sorts of things, sometimes even the moccasins which they are actually wearing. William got a coat for his pair the other day; on another occasion, boy-like, he got a big pair of boots which he is most proud of, but which are of very little use to him. The height of ambition is to own a pair of boots, though the feet look much tidier in moccasins. His grandmother has just asked me to buy her a pair at the Cape.
Graham has been writing a letter to the Bishop telling of our contemplated visit to the Cape. He will leave a copy of it here on the possible chance of the Bishop arriving when we are away. If he should arrive there are various things of which he may wish to have accurate information.
To do the rats justice let me here record it is now thought that a cat was the culprit on the occasion of the breakfast having disappeared.
Thursday, November22.—To-day when I was hanging the bird-cage on the wall of the house, Jack somehow squeezed himself through the wires and flew to the flax on the edge of the garden. I caught him, but he slipped through my fingers and flew on to the common and then back into the garden, again alighting on a flax-leaf. He is so tame he allowed me to go up to him, and I caught him once more quite easily.
I have started baking bread in an iron pot after the method of the people.
Thursday, November29.—Should we go to the Cape it has been arranged for the elder girls to carry on the school. They are rather pleased at the idea. To get their hand in, Graham let them take it yesterday and again to-day. They are capable of taking it for a limited time.
The men and boys have been playing cricket lately, the latter being very keen upon it.
High winds have again somewhat damaged the plants.
Friday, November30,St. Andrew's Day.—It being the day of Intercession for Missions we had service at five o'clock. Sixty-one people were present, which was good for a week-day. Earlier in the afternoon the sewing-class met. When possible we have it out of doors. We are readingTeddy's Button, which the children quite enjoy. They enter into reading aloud so much more than they did.
Monday, December 3.—Yesterday afternoon Sam Swain's baby was christened and named Rachel Caroline. The baptism was earlier than it would have been because the parents were anxious she should be baptized before we leave for the Cape. The church was full. Graham has asked Repetto to read the service on Sunday while we are away. Ellen will play the hymns.
This evening a vessel was sighted. As the men think it is a whaler they are not going out to it till to-morrow.
Wednesday, December5.—The vessel was a whaler, and the men went off at breakfast-time next morning and were away all day. For three sheep and eight geese they only got a barrel of flour and some molasses. The captain evidently knew how to drive a bargain; it is rather too bad.
The flower garden is beginning to look quite bright. The sweet peas will soon be in flower, the stocks, too, are showing buds. This week we expect to pick a dish of peas, though the plants look very poor after the blight they had.
There has been a rearrangement of the classes in school and some of the infants have gone up. The elder girls now help a little in the teaching. This morning I had to speak to one of them. She had been taking the infants in reading, and sat with cane in hand administering justice right and left, to which her scholars paid but little heed.
Thursday, December6.—Yesterday, it being the Advent season, there was a short service after the confirmation class. The people sing "Lo, He comes with clouds descending" to the tune in theHymnal Companionso heartily. Coming out from the service we found the men gazing intently towards the west. They saw what they said was a whaler; we could just see something. It seems to be coming in, so they will not go out to it till to-morrow. Whalers are no good as regards taking letters, because it may be so long before they make a port.
Friday, December7.—The whaler came in on Thursday and the men started out to meet her, but finding that she was sending a boat ashore, returned. In the boat was the harpooner, a brother of Sam Swain, senior. The brothers had not met for twenty-four years. He and the boat's crew spent part of the day here. It has been a great thing for the people to have had these three whalers as they have been able to get provisions and material. I must say our friends are a most liberal people. To-day just after dinner Henry Green brought us a bag of flour fromAll Hands. Graham did not want to take it, and being pressed, offered to pay for it, but Henry would not hear of that, and after some argument said with decision he would not take it back and plumped it down on the sofa. They think now there will be a very good potato crop both in quality and quantity, so we cannot want. The potatoes last year were small owing to the blight.
Saturday, December8,—The Henry Greens have a child nearly two years old that can neither walk nor talk, and is very fat. They said they thought his back was weak, so I suggested they should bathe it with sea-water twice a day. For some time they did not try this, but last week began it, and after two or three days to their surprise, and to mine when I was told of it, he stood up. The mother is most thankful and only wishes she had begun it before.
Friday, Decemberl4.—There was great excitement yesterday afternoon. Word was brought in that there had been a shipwreck and that two boats were making for the island. We all ran out expecting to see a shipwrecked crew, but no boats were to be seen. We made then for Hottentot Point, and there we could see a ship in the distance. One of out boats had already started, but returned before it had gone far. Later the same enterprising crew, Tom Rogers, Henry Green, and young Sam Swain, set forth again with things for barter. We only knew at the last minute they were going. Ellen and I ran to the top of the cliff with our letter, but the boat had started. We heard afterwards they would have come back had they known we had letters. It is more than a month since we dispatched our last batch. The boat did not return till this morning. It got back to the belt of seaweed before daylight, and making fast to it waited for the dawn. The crew said the captain, a Scotchman, was so kind and let them have anything they wanted. He had his wife and little boy on board; she had been ill. The ship was becalmed, and we hoped the other islanders would go out to her, but they didn't seem inclined to do so. Later in the afternoon we heard to our surprise that they were going. We were so glad because of the letters. The captain sent us a whole heap of magazines and papers. We sent some young lettuces, and I only regretted we had not some flowers to send to his wife. The men did not return till the early hours of the morning. The captain sent us a bottle of lime-juice and would not take any payment for the groceries Repetto asked for. We feel much the invariable kindness of all the captains. The first boat's crew enjoyed themselves immensely on board. The captain played and sang to them. To add to his kindness he sent us a letter containing all the latest news; the first item of which was "King Teddy going strong."
Repetto has just been in to bring some white paint and oil he got for us from the ship. We want it for the house, which certainly has not seen fresh paint for many a year.
Saturday, December15.—A ship was sighted to-day in the far distance.
Sunday, December16.—Rebekah is most good in bringing us bunches of pink roses. We have also on the table a bouquet of field-daisies which we were so pleased to find growing here. There are scarcely any wild flowers, but there is a yellow one which much resembles a hollyhock. The people think it very poisonous and never picked it. There is also a small plant which grows abundantly near this house and which they call a sunflower. It has a leaf resembling that of the woodsorrel, and a pink flower the shape of a primrose, but with smaller petals. The boys are very fond of adorning their caps on Sunday with a bunch of pink roses, which are not exactly becoming to their brown complexions.
Monday, December17.—In heavy rain and a misty sea a ship passed close by.
Thursday, December20.—To-day Rebekah ran in in great distress: "Her brother Ben had had a fit and had not yet come to, would we go to him?" We went off at once. When we got there he was still unconscious and was lying on the couch. The men were doing all they could for him. There was not much that could be done beyond loosening his collar. After a time he went to sleep. Every one kept flocking in, even the children. I told them he ought to be kept quiet, and gradually they went until Ellen, I, and Bill Green were the only ones left. Presently he awoke and insisted upon getting up, and seeing he was fairly himself we left. Afterwards he had two more fits, one of them on the shore where he had insisted upon going; fortunately Bill Green had followed him there. Two of the men will sit up with him through the night. The people are very kind to one another in sickness.
The keeping of meat is a great difficulty in the summer. We have a supply for the week and it will not keep beyond a day or two. We asked to have it twice a week, but that could not be arranged. We mean to try salting a portion. Our meat larder is the passage as being the most airy place.
Sunday, December 23.—Ben is all right again. It is thought he overdid himself driving sheep. He had no dog with him and did a good deal of shouting and running. He is the man who has deformed arms. Happily he is of a cheerful disposition and is to be heard constantly whistling tunes. The only work he can do is to drive the oxen and sheep.
It is difficult to feel we are so near Christmas since we have so few preparations to make for it. But it is not so with the people. They have been preparing for it for months. We have had constant requests for "blue" for getting up white shirts, petticoats and children's clothes. Preparations are also now going on in prospect of a visit from a man-of-war; houses are being whitewashed, painted, and scrubbed. The Repettos finished theirs some time ago, and the large sitting-room is not allowed to be used, that it may be kept quite clean for the "great event," should it come off. The minds of the inhabitants are centred on the arrival of a warship; it is the great event in their lives, and they cannot yet believe one is not coming.
Christmas Eve.—This has been a busy day, almost as busy at it is at home, there has been so much coming and going. Many have brought offerings of fish and fruit-pies, and Rebekah as a birthday offering a nicely baked cake. I had a blouse ready for her. She stayed to supper. We have been able to give a little tea and sugar all round. I patched up an old coat for William, and as a last thing watered the garden. The nasturtiums, which I hope will run up the wall of the house, are just beginning to bloom. The sitting-room looks quite gay with daisies, grasses and pink roses.
Christmas Day.—We have had three services, and all have been well attended. To our surprise we found the church decorated. It was done delightfully simple; little bunches of geraniums, roses and green being hung from the beams and the walls. Nearly all were present in the morning, the women having got up early to prepare their dinners. Rebekah said she was up at 4.30. Our dinner was provided for us, the Greens sending stuffed sucking-pig and others crowberry open tarts. Alas! we had no plum-pudding. The rain came down in torrents in the afternoon, and we began service with hardly any one present; but the rain abating the church gradually filled. The singing was not good; I drew my conclusions.
This evening there has been dancing at the Hagans'. Graham has been in and is surprised how well the people dance. The men danced in their shirt-sleeves. Husbands and wives first led off, then danced with other partners. The refreshment was cold water.
Thursday, December27.—Yesterday directly after breakfast Repetto came to paint the sitting-room. The painting took all day, but the room is quite transformed. The south wall which was green from damp has been whitewashed, and now it is of an olive-green shade and looks quite artistic in contrast with the white paint, but I am afraid that hue will not long remain.
We are having a ten days' holiday. It rains almost every day, and everything is reeking with damp. The people devote themselves to festivities at this season, playing cricket in the morning and dancing in the afternoon and evening. On Boxing Day the first hour of the afternoon was given up to the children, who love dancing. About an hour later the elders began. I dressed in my best array and went to look on. They dance exceedingly well, round and backwards and forwards. I was struck by the polite manners of the men, who go up to the partner they wish to dance with, bow to her and offer their arm. The partner takes it most solemnly, waits about half a minute before she accepts, apparently quite unconscious of his presence, during which time his arm is dropped as he stands mute before her; then she quietly rises and the dance begins. The behaviour of the girls is quiet and natural with a becoming self-reserve. We were home again before six. I believe the dancers left soon after to get some food at home, and then returned and went on till eleven o'clock. We looked in again, and, seeing that the room was very poorly lighted, went back for our lamp. Some of the babies were put to bed in the adjoining room, and some were sleeping peacefully in the arms of the elders in the dancing-room.
Friday, December 28.—We are having a very wet week. I have been painting the bedroom and kitchen window-frames. One of our little birds died suddenly yesterday evening: we think perhaps the paint was too much for it. Happily the other one seems quite cheerful without it. As there is still a smell of paint we take his cage up to the church and hang it in the vestry as the only place of safety we can think of.
New Year's Eve.—In looking back over this past year we feel very thankful for the way in which we have been helped and guided.
_New Year's Day, 1907.—It is the custom here on New Year's Eve for the men to assemble soon after nightfall and visit each house. Several are fantastically dressed and equipped with every available instrument— violin, drum, concertina and accordion. And on this occasion even three old Martinis were brought into requisition and fired at frequent intervals throughout the night. Refreshment is given at each house, so we had a good brew of tea and biscuits ready for distribution at the first sound of the drum. Usually the men enter the house, but as it would have been impossible to get them all into ours, they grouped themselves round the back door. There they first sang and danced to the accompaniment of the violin and accordion, made passes with mock swords and let off guns; then sat on the stones and enjoyed their tea. I was awakened two or three times in the night by the guns. It was daylight before they finished.
No less than four dinners were sent us today, three plates of stuffed mutton and one of sucking-pig. Our thyme and parsley had been much sought after for the stuffing.
We had service this morning at nine o'clock, at which about forty were present. One of the three hymns was the old favourite—
"O God, our help in ages past,Our hope for years to come."
All the afternoon Graham was on the roof of the house mending a hole which was big enough to thrust his hand through. I watched him staggering up the ladder with a heavy roll of turf roped on to his back. When next I saw him he was sprawling on the ridge, his legs only visible. He nailed a piece of tin over the hole, cemented it, and put the turf over it. The cement is made of the ashes of the wood fire mixed with water; it is very durable, and stands heat and wet. Repetto has been painting the church. His wife came in to pay us a visit, a rather rare thing. She goes her own way. The other women live a good deal in each other's houses, but she does not believe in this, thinking there is plenty to be done at home. Her strong character comes out in dealing with her children. She is a very strict disciplinarian. If they do not do what she tells them, they get a good "hammering." She was very pleased with what Graham said in church on Sunday to the children about promptness in obeying.
Wednesday, January 2.—To-day we thought of going to the potato patches, but the men were playing cricket, and sent to ask Graham to join them, which he did. Afterwards he had his first bathe with them. Their bathing-place is close to the waterfall. It is not possible to go out far owing to sharks.
Thursday, January 3.—Graham and I started off this afternoon for the potato patches, as the people were anxious that we should see the plants in flower. It was not quite such an exertion as we expected. This time of year the plants are often covered with caterpillars, which have to be picked off. If the people would burn the old plants and the weeds each season this pest would be greatly diminished. Unfortunately there are no birds to prey upon the insects.
Monday, January 7.—The next day we went up what is called "Bugsby Hole," a steep mountain slope. It took us a long time to climb, for we did it bit by bit, constantly sitting down. At last we came to what one might perhaps call a pass (it was but a gap) over a narrow-backed ridge. This was the Goat Ridge which Graham had climbed from the other side on Good Friday. We had rather a difficult rock to climb up, but with assistance I managed it. Rob got frightened, and had many leaps before he got up. From this ridge such a lovely scene opened out in the evening light, lofty peaks all around, and below, grassy, fern-covered ravines. It made one almost giddy to look down. The descent appeared appalling, but the ferns were long, and we could get a good foothold in them. As we neared the bottom we picked up a quantity of wood. Some of it rolled into a gulch, and in going after it Graham got "blocked" and had to let himself slide, with the result that he rather hurt his leg. We got home just before dusk, had a supper of bread and milk and coffee, and retired to bed as soon as I had prepared the sponge for baking.
[Illustration: BUGSBY HOLE]
We have started school again after a fortnight's holiday. It is a hot, close day, about the hottest we have had; one comfort is the houses are cool. It is such a pleasure to see the cattle looking so different, really beginning to be in good condition. Their number having been so greatly reduced, there is plenty of grass for them. We have abundance of milk now, but butter is a rare commodity. Some was brought us to-day, and is quite a treat.
Wednesday, January9.—This day last year we landed at Cape Town.
Yesterday evening we watched the yoking of some oxen which were driven into the yard opposite. Several were being broken in for the first time, and others had not been yoked for many months. One was quite wild, jumping over the wall into the tussock-garden. The two oxen, or steers, to be yoked together are driven into a corner, and the owner of them warily approaches and first puts on the neck of one the wooden collar. Having done this, he waits a minute or two, and then a man behind hands him the heavy cross-beam, one end of which has to be made fast to the collar. This being done, he goes through the same process with the other ox. The affair is no easy one, for any minute the ox may bolt, perhaps with the yoke dangling down over its forelegs. When they are at last ready, their heads are turned towards the entrance, for which they generally make a dash to get out on to the common. Now comes a race. The owner has hold of one of the horns and hangs on, running at topmost speed, till the oxen are out of breath and go more soberly. Some of the animals take the yoking very quietly. They are left yoked for several days; it seems rather hard upon them, but, of course, they have to be broken in.
Friday, January11.—We are going to keep fowls. I intended to buy some, and spoke to one or two people, but they quite scorned the idea of selling—they would give them. About half-a-dozen have already been promised. Tom Rogers started on the fowl-house to-day. It is to be a wooden one made out of our packing-cases and thatched with tussock.
Wednesday, January16.—Repetto has been here since Saturday putting up a three-cornered cupboard in the sitting-room. We need it to keep daily stores in. We tried keeping them in the loft, but to run up a ladder every time you want tea, sugar or biscuits is rather tiresome, and the kitchen is too damp for stores.
We have been rearranging the sitting-room. The Indian rugs have come in most usefully; one does as a tablecloth, and the other as a cover for boxes, making a table in the part of the sitting-room we have screened off. They give such a cheerful look to the room. Two or three of the young girls come in every evening of their own accord to help Ellen to wash up. The boys often help in the garden. Ned and little Charlie were helping this evening to shake the earth out of sods of grass. They were so comical over it, tumbling down and bursting into such merry peals of laughter. It reminded me of scenes inUncle Tom's Cabin.
Monday, January2l.—We are having such peaceful days, hardly any wind, and hours of sunshine.
The fowl-house is finished, and this morning I had several gifts of hens to put into it. While we were at breakfast one small child of five, Lizzie Rogers, brought as her birthday gift a hen in a bag. One hen laid an egg an hour after its arrival! The eggs here are very small. I visit the house many times a day to show it to various visitors.
The garden is looking so bright; the zinnias have done splendidly, and some are over two feet high. Our vegetable garden now produces cabbages, turnips, and a few peas. Carrots are coming on, and the tomato plants are in blossom and look most flourishing. The ground is quite warm six or seven inches down, and is more like a hot-bed.
Wednesday, January23.—The man-of-war is daily expected; the horizon is scanned from early dawn to twilight; but after this week the people say they will have doubts about its coming. For the most part they are without tea and coffee, and are glad of our tea-leaves.
Friday, January25.—We opened our last flour tin today; we hope to eke out the flour for a month by using only half-a-pound a day and mixing with it a liberal proportion of potatoes.
Yesterday I had my first bathe. We went to a place amongst the rocks where the sea runs in and deep enough for swimming. Graham has begun bathing with the boys after school. The beautiful calm weather has gone and the wind come back again.
Wednesday, January30.—Charlotte Swain came in to tell us there was a shark on the shore and to ask if we would like to go and see it; so we went down. It was a small one, only six feet long. The skin is very rough, like emery paper, and is used by the people for polishing horns. The flesh is remarkably white and looks as though it would be good to eat. The liver when boiled down makes very clear oil for burning in their lamps.
This evening Rebekah brought us a well-baked loaf. We were touched by this, for flour is scarce now. She said they could do on potatoes better than we could, though we have not come to that yet. The men have been fishing and we have more fish than we can possibly eat.
There are other occupants than fowls of the fowl-house. Four big pigs find it a most comfortable place to retire into. It doesn't matter how often they are driven out. Whenever a storm comes on in they go again, and then they have the best of us.
Saturday, February2.—This morning, though it was wet, such was our energy we went off for a bathe before breakfast, and found it most refreshing.
The Glasses have a little son, and now the population, including ourselves, is seventy-nine.
Late this afternoon there was a cry of "Sail, ho!" and on going out to look we saw a ship opposite the settlement. It was just a chance whether the men would be able to reach her. They had no time to catch any sheep, but took what they could lay hands on. As we sat on the cliff just as they were starting, Mr. Bob Green suddenly jumped up crying, "Sail, ho!" and on looking, sure enough we saw a second sail coming up. We hoped the men would try for the two, but they decided to go for the second only. The first ship stood in for a time and lowered part of her sail, and then went on. It is dark, but the boats are not yet back. I do hope the men have been able to get some tea and coffee.
Monday, February 4.—Late on Saturday evening we heard a distant whistle which we knew meant the boats were coming. We thought we would go down to see them land, but as it was very dark and we had lent our lantern we had to wait till we saw a light passing our way. Most of the people were carrying brands which they waved to keep them alight, causing quite a fine effect. On the cliff a fire was burning, and another on the shore. Lanterns were held up so that the incoming boat might have all the light possible. Well as the landing-place is known, it is difficult in the darkness to steer clear of rocks and to keep the boat from filling with water in the surf. The moment it touched the shore the women, boys, and girls ran down and pulled frantically at the rope. It had to be hauled up a steep bank of shingle. The fire was stirred up and in its light the second boat made a run for the shore. It was a weird scene. The expedition had been almost in vain. The men had to pull nearly all the way to the ship, which proved to be a Russian one, and could hardly get anything. Still, a little tea, coffee and sugar, and seventeen pounds of flour with a little rice were better than nothing. The ship was bound for Natal, but the captain would not take any passengers. We are pleased the letters have gone and by so direct a route. As the boats were leaving the ship the captain called out, "The letters are not stamped." Repetto called back, "All you have to do is to put them in the post-box as they are." We can never stamp letters as there are no stamps here. And if there were stamps they would be of no use because we never know where the letters will be posted. We sent off about sixteen letters. Repetto said he would keep his for the man-of-war. I rather think ours will reach England first.
We are getting through more reading than we have for a long time. Some of the people, so we are told, have used their books for lighting fires, and others have pulled them to pieces for the sake of the thread with which they were bound. We have found several of Miss Emily Holt's books here, and have much enjoyed reading them.
We have many requests now from the people for vegetables and almost daily ones for thyme and parsley. Cabbages they much like. We hope in the future they will try to cultivate vegetables. At present they care for none beyond cabbages, leeks, onions and pumpkins. The caterpillars do much damage among the vegetables, and many of the young tomatoes are riddled with holes. The few ears of wheat which have come up have tiny green caterpillars on them which eat up all the green corn. Having no insect-eating birds here is a great loss.
We have been having a good deal of rain and close steamy weather. At night we have the windows and door of our room, the passage window, and sometimes the back door all open. A chair has to be put across the door to keep the pigs out.
Wednesday, February 6.—Yesterday when we came back from bathing we heard that the men were going off in about an hour's time to Sandy Point to gather apples from their orchards, so we decided to take a holiday and go too. It was rather a scramble to get ready, and before we had even sat down to breakfast some of the men were going to the boats. We were in the midst of baking, and I had to run up to Miss Cotton to ask her if she would kindly finish it. It had been decreed Rob was not to come, but seeing us depart was too much for him and he swam after the boat and was hauled in. The men had to row the whole way, a distance of about ten miles. The scenery was fine, the high mountain sides descending precipitously to the shore. On the way Tom Rogers and Sam Swain were put ashore, as they wanted to drive a cow from where the former had left it some months ago. It was rather an undertaking, for the animal was as wild as the road was rough. Sometimes she had to be driven over big boulders, and sometimes through the sea. When she got on to a sandy stretch of beach she went so fast the men could hardly keep up with her. They had to throw a lasso over her horns the last part of the way to prevent her swimming out to sea. But in spite of their difficulties they arrived almost as soon as we did. It was not very easy landing, and we had to be carried from the boats to the shore. The orchards were on the mountain side in a sheltered place. It was quite a climb to get to them and once or twice we had to have help, which Tom Rogers, who when he saw us mounting had run after us, was only too pleased to give. We passed a very fine vine; the grapes were not yet ripe, probably the rats will have most of them. The grass was long and rather wet. Soon the sun came out and it became very hot. For a time we helped Tom to gather his apples, but it was tiring work, so Ellen and I found a sheltered nook and rested. Afterwards Graham and I went and sat near the edge of the cliff. Here a pair of mollyhawks came and perched within a few feet of us, and our presence did not seem at all to disturb them. They are exceedingly handsome birds, are for the most part white, and have a black bill with a bright yellow stripe down the centre of it. They have most graceful movements; and this pair bowed and clicked their beaks together and made love to each other in the most charming way. Before long it was time to descend. Tom again showed us the way, and then went back for his bags of apples, which he let down the cliff by a rope. The other men too were getting theirs down, some carrying them on their backs. There was such a collection of sacks by the time they were all down. The apples are not a large kind, and are gathered before they are ripe. But it is a great boon to the people to have them, and the children munch them all day long, eating little else. Tea was brewed on the beach, but as only a small saucepan had been brought there was not a very plentiful supply. Coming back there was only a little wind, and we travelled but slowly. We were very glad to land, for we were feeling rather sinking for want of food. To-day being the birthday of Mrs. Hagan's one-year-old son she sent us for supper a cooked fowl which was most acceptable. Our three little helpers, Mary and Susan Repetto and Sophy Rogers, came up with us from the shore and offered to carry our wraps, and when we got in set to and washed up the breakfast things. They love to help, and come in two and three times a day now.
Saturday, February9.—It is difficult to keep count of dates here, the weeks pass so quickly. It is a wet afternoon. I have been chopping up suet, Graham repairing boots.
The day before yesterday the men with one or two women and some children went by boat to the rookery to fetch home three heifers. With some difficulty they managed to catch them, tied their legs together, and brought them home in the boats. They also brought back more apples and a good deal of driftwood.
Yesterday some of the men went out in a boat to shoot albatrosses, and shot seven. These birds are so large that it is as much as a woman can do to bring up one from the shore slung on her back. Once they nested on the island, but now nests are not to be found nearer than Inaccessible.
I have been making fresh efforts to teach Edith Swain her letters. She has been months at the first four and does not know them yet, but has picked up one or two others. I have tried a new way of teaching with better result. I have taught her, for example, "s" quite easily by telling her it is like the noise the goose makes; it is called the goose letter by the children. In this way we joke over the letters, and it seems to implant them in her mind. She has now learnt them nearly all.
Monday, February11.—During Lent we are to have daily service at nine o'clock, and on Fridays one also at five o'clock with instruction on the Holy Communion.
Friday, February 15.—The daily services so far are being very well attended, a few men being generally present. We always have well-known hymns, and the service lasts just under the half-hour.
I find the fowls a great interest. But they often lay away in the tussock where it is almost a hopeless task to find the eggs. If I see a hen looking about for a nest whenever I can I catch it and shut it up, and usually with a successful result.
The other day Ben the cripple had been missing for several hours. It was feared he had gone off up the mountain by himself and been taken with a fit. Although it was pouring with rain the men went off in search of him to Red Hole which lies westward, but not finding him there retraced their steps and went in the opposite direction as far as Pig's Bite, but seeing no traces of his footsteps on the sand they turned back, when they were encountered by Ben himself, who had run after them to let them know he was all right. It seems he had gone to the potato hut and had fallen asleep there, and that his sister not knowing he was there had fastened him in. The first intimation of his whereabouts was conveyed by cries of "Becky, Becky, let me out."
Our things still remain packed, but we hardly think now we shall get off to the Cape. We have enough tea to last us this year, and enough coffee, sugar, biscuits, rice and jam for some time yet, as well as oil and soap. We got a good deal of rice from one of the ships, but bread we had virtually to do without.
The Repettos' youngest child is such a little pet, and so well trained. I brought him in yesterday when we were having afternoon tea. He solemnly clambered on to the sofa and sat there till I offered him a spoonful of tea and a biscuit, which he descended to receive, and then went back to his place. He came out into the garden afterwards and sat by my side without moving while I made a weak attempt at sketching the house. He is fair, has auburn curls, and is the darling of his mother's heart.
Monday, Februaryl8.—This morning we had such a delightful bathe. The sea was rough and broke into our little cove, which was quite deep at one end. There was such a lovely sunrise, the sky and sea lit up by it. We often go down to bathe while it is still dusk. Rob was so amusing; he would not come near the water, but sat on the rock as if on guard; he is generally here, there, and everywhere.
Sunday, February24.—John Glass's son and heir was baptized today and was named William Gordon. The first name was after Corporal Glass, his greatgrandfather. We sang the beautiful baptismal hymn—-
"O Father, Thou who hast created allIn wisest love, we pray,Look on this babe, who at Thy gracious callIs entering on life's way;Bend o'er him in Thy tenderness,Thine image on his soul impress;O Father, hear!"
I did not know either the hymn or the tune by Sullivan until I came here.
Monday, February25.—I have been picking tomatoes. We have to pick them green, as they are beginning to rot, due, I think, to this wet climate. I have hung some in strings on the front of the house, the rest lie on the sitting-room window-sills.
A week or two ago a small portion of the hayfield was cut. There being no such thing as a scythe here, it was cut with a short hook made out of ship iron, and called a "tussock-hook." The hay, which is deliciously sweet, was gathered in successfully. But I do not think Henry intends to cut any more of the field. They have got into such set ways here that it goes against the grain to try anything new. This hay was put into a hut and never used for feeding the cattle but for bedding for the pigs. While I have been writing I have heard such happy peals of laughter from the children who have been helping Ellen.
Tuesday, February 26.—As we were out for a walk this afternoon we saw cart after cart coming home from the potato patches. They were loaded with sacks of potatoes, and generally had a woman and one or two children seated on the top of the sacks. The men do the digging and the women and children the picking up. The potatoes are turning out well on the whole. It is no joy to ride in the wagons along the rough track, which can hardly be described as a road. The carts have solid wooden wheels and no springs.
Saturday, March 2.—A cry of "Sail, ho!" What a joy! Every one is running hither and thither.
Monday, March4.—It is difficult to sit down and collect one's thoughts to write. Saturday was a most eventful day. Early in the morning soon after we had returned from bathing a ship was seen on the horizon. It was coming from the east. This is the first time a ship has come from that direction since we have been here. The excitement was great. She was seen to be tacking for the island. The excitement increased. We felt something was in store for us, possibly a mail. In due time Graham and the islanders started forth; there was a breeze and the sea was decidedly rough. As we were returning from seeing them off the women said they could see a flag on the mast-head, which meant that somebody special was on board. We at once decided it must be the Bishop, and hurried home and buckled to, for there was plenty to be done. We saw the boats reach the ship, and to our surprise in about fifteen minutes they were off again. We then felt sure the ship was going to stay and was landing some one. When the boats were getting fairly near the shore we went down. A tremendously heavy shower came on which drove us to seek shelter in a diminutive cave. The sea had become rougher. We watched the boats working their way in from the east; they were being tossed and pitched about like corks and the spray was dashing all over them. Our interest grew as they neared the shore. How we scanned them to see who was on board. As they drew near us we could see there was no bishop, but the people soon recognized two Tristanites, Willie Swain, son of Susan Swain, and Charlie Green, son of Lucy Green, who had been away for two or three years. They both will be welcome, as they are needed at home to work for their widowed mothers. Then a stranger was descried.
The women ran down to help the moment the boat grounded, even Ellen and I helped for a few minutes. Every one was wet through; Graham from head to foot, but happily he was nothors de combat. He introduced the stranger as Mr. Keytel, one of the owners of the vessel, who said he had come partly on a holiday trip and partly to gauge the feasibility of starting a trade. The schooner will probably be here about a week. Mr. Keytel had lunch with us. It has been arranged for him to have his meals with us and to sleep at the Repettos' who have a larger house. He is an interesting man with many hobbies, being interested in photography, birds, flowers, fishing, horns, and curios. Directly after lunch the letter mail was brought in by Repetto who was followed by others carrying bags containing a great number of parcels chiefly for the islanders.
What a delight it was to have our letters. I had such a number it was difficult to know which one to open first. We must spend the next few days almost entirely in writing. Graham has a great many letters to answer, and has received communications from the Imperial and Cape Governments which may require lengthy answers. The former Government desires him to discuss with the inhabitants the question of their leaving the island. He has also had a very kind letter from an official of the Agricultural Department at Cape Town, who has had the management of this expedition, which is described as "The Relief Expedition." The Imperial Government has sent the islanders goods to the value of £100. These include one hundred bags of flour, groceries, and a large quantity of crockery. The stores which we ordered from the Army and Navy Stores, London, and from Messrs. Cartwright of Cape Town have arrived safely; and thus we are provided for for two years. We had kept a little flour for an emergency, so directly our guest came we were able to bake a loaf.
7:35.—We have been writing almost the whole day, and I feel as if I had very little mind left.
On Sunday the schooner came fairly close in, but the boats did not go out to her, for which we were glad. She has been becalmed today some distance away, but the men decided to go off to her for the bags of flour. They have now been out nearly twelve hours; it is dark, and there is no sign of them. Ellen and I have been round to all the houses leaving tea and sugar so that the women may have a brew to take down to them when they arrive.
Mr. Keytel has been making inquiries about guano; but it seems from what the men say it will be almost impossible to get the pure article, so much rain passes through it washing out all the goodness; also, it is in the tussock and gets mixed with sand. He does not want to trade in cattle or sheep.
Tuesday, March 5.—We went down last night to meet the boats. Each brought twenty sacks of flour. So much flour has not been seen on the island for many a day, if ever. It was not a really dark night, so that lanterns were all that were necessary. Every one was helping either to haul up the boats or carry the bags to a high and dry spot, which was not easy work over slippery seaweed. The captain has sent ashore for us a funny little brown puppy.
About half-past ten one of the men put his head in at the front door saying something about the mail at Glass's. Graham went to see what it was, and after some time brought back to our great joy another enormous budget of letters of later date than those first received. We sat up till nearly one o'clock reading them, but were up by six next morning.
This morning after service a meeting was held, at which every adult except two was present, to go into the question of leaving Tristan. Graham told the people, according to instructions received, that if they stayed the Government could not promise to do anything further for them, and that therefore they must not look for help in the future. He put the advantage of going and the disadvantage of remaining as strongly as he could. But notwithstanding they were unanimous in their decision to stay. One or two said they would rather starve here than at the Cape; and old Mary Glass said she would go if the Government would give her a pound a week. Mr. Keytel was there and takes much interest in every question. He is considering whether anything can be done as to trading in sheep, and I hope will try to get his firm to take it up. It would be better for the islanders to sell at a very low price than to have no regular communication. A trade would make them independent of outside help except perhaps a little at first to make the schooner pay. But probably the Government will think it has done enough for some time to come.
This is not the first time that an offer of removal has been made. In 1903 Mr. Chamberlain, who was then Colonial Secretary, in a dispatch to the Governor of the Cape suggested the removal of the inhabitants to the Cape, and that the island be annexed to the Cape Colony. In accordance with this suggestion in January, 1904, H.M.S.Odinarrived at Tristan having on board Mr. Hammond Tooke who was commissioned by the Cape Government to make the following offer to the islanders:—"Should all the inhabitants wish to leave the Island, the Cape and Home Governments would provide them with a free passage, purchase their live stock from them and settle them within 100 miles of Cape Town, allowing them about two acres of land on rent, and would advance them money on loan to start their homes. They were also told that they would be near the sea coast, where they would be able to start fisheries to supply the people of Cape Town … and that in future they could not rely on a yearly visit from a man-of-war" (Blue Book). Only three families accepting this offer it was withdrawn.
Wednesday, March6.—Yesterday and to-day rain and a rough sea stopped the unloading. Mr. Keytel has brought a gramophone and has given a concert at the Repettos' house. I have never enjoyed a gramophone so much as I have this one, more particularly the orchestral part.
We have been writing on and off all day. There were more meetings this afternoon. Several matters needed discussion. One concerned the mail which is sometimes opened in rather a promiscuous fashion—even in the boats. It has been agreed that in future it shall be brought straight to this house. Repetto is to continue to act as postmaster, and the opening to be in the presence of all who wish to attend. It has also been agreed that any letters or packages addressed to the Governor, or other supposed authority, Graham shall open on behalf of the islanders. These have come to be thought nobody's property, and to be appropriated by any one into whose hands they might fall.
Mr. Keytel also had a meeting. He has become very interested in the island and is going to do what he can to start a sheep trade, so he wanted to talk it all out with the people. He is keen upon improvements. Amongst other points he suggests that only a few cattle should be kept and that food should be grown to supply them in winter; and that a piece of land be railed off for the pigs which do so much havoc to the turf. He has won the men's confidence and I believe they will do what he wishes. He hopes if all goes well to send a schooner next January to take off the sheep, which will probably have to be sold at a low price. Had we gone to Cape Town we could not have obtained a better result than this unexpected visit of Mr. Keytel promises to yield.
Thursday, March 7.—Graham sat up writing till two in the morning. He has now nearly finished his report to the Colonial office, but has still to write to the Cape Government. I too have been writing most of the day. The ship has only been sighted in the far distance, so no business has been done. This is the third successive day of no communication with her. The wind of yesterday blew her far out to sea. We are so longing to open our packages, but it seems better to get the letters that have come to hand answered first.
Saturday, March 9.—Yesterday the men went off to theGreyhound—I do not think I have mentioned the name of the schooner before—and got back some time before midnight. They have gone off again to-day, after which they have only to go once more.
Later, 10 p.m.—We have just opened a package which we thought contained papers, and to our delight have found letters and cards innumerable.
Monday, March ll.—The men are bringing in the last load from the schooner. Latterly the weather has been very favourable.
Mr. Keytel has had a splendid opportunity of getting to know the people, their needs, and the possibilities of the island. He thinks there may be an opening not only for sheep-breeding and for the drying of fish, of which there are great quantities, but also for sealing; and talks of coming next December and spending a whole year here with the object of starting the industries. It looks, therefore, as if a future were opening at last for Tristan.
Mr. and Mrs. Beverley of Cape Town have been so kind. They packed a large case full of things, such as children's clothes, remnants of material, puzzles and toys, including a grand doll's house. A case has also been received from the congregation of Holy Trinity Church, many members of which have very kindly written.
Tuesday, March12.—Still busy writing. In addition to my own I have many letters to write for the islanders to friends in England and elsewhere who have sent them parcels.
Last evening I went to the cemetery to try to make a sketch of Mr. Macan's grave for his grandmother. This is the young man who came in thePandorain 1904 and was drowned, as it is thought, in trying to swim round a bluff to the west of Burntwood. His body was found the next morning on the beach, but whether he had fallen off the cliff or had been drowned in swimming round is uncertain.
[Illustration: THE CRATER LAKE]
[Illustration: ON THE SUMMIT OF THE PEAK]
Graham has at last had his heart's desire, namely, to ascend the Peak. He and Mr. Keytel with five of the islanders started off early this morning. At seven we could see them on the sky-line of the mountain above the settlement. They got back about six this evening. I am thankful I did not go, for they say it was a tremendous climb, and the last part, over a lava-covered surface, the hardest bit of all. I give a description of the expedition in his own words—
"Mr. Keytel and I had as guides or companions old Sam Swain, Andrew Swain, Tom Rogers, Repetto and young Sam Swain. We started at 5.30 a.m. and in an hour and a half were 2,000 feet up, on the top of what the islanders call the base of the mountain. With the exception of a mile and a half at the end the climbing was now done, and the rest of the way little more than walking up-hill. The first mile from the edge of the base was fairly flat, but over spongy ground thickly studded with stout ferns which came up above our knees. Then we got on to a grassy slope, and from that descended into a gulch, up which we went for about a mile. Getting out of this we next trudged over grassy slopes on which were growing fine specimens of the crowberry. This kind of ground lasted to within a mile and a half of the summit, but the grass became scarcer, and was in patches only. Then all vegetation ceased, I did not notice even moss, and the ascent became much steeper, about as steep as from St. Ann's Well to the top of the Worcestershire Beacon. But the going was much harder because the ground offered no sure foothold, consisting as it did of loose burnt stones and earth which let you down one step for every two taken. Our Cape visitor in the gulch had felt that he could not lift his foot for another step; he kept on, however, right to the top, and I began to feel the same. Although in no sense done up, I found this last bit harder work than all the rest of the way put together. The men felt it too. The end, though, came at last, and we proudly stood on the rim of the crater. It was soon evident to us, however, that we were not on the highest point. That was on the part of the rim opposite to us, and in between was the bottom of the crater. Lying in this bottom was a small lake, perhaps eighty yards by sixty. We made our way down to it and half-way round it, and then sat down to lunch. We found the crater water quite drinkable. After lunch I had a swim in the lake, whereupon Mr. Keytel promptly brought his camera into action. He took many other photographs. Then we set our eyes upon that highest bit of rim and doggedly making for it were soon shouting and waving our caps on the top. It was now twenty minutes past one. At a quarter to three we began to return, and were home by twenty-five minutes past six. The day for the climb and the view was a perfect one."
To-morrow the schooner leaves and with it goes our touch with the outside world. With what it has left behind we shall have enough to occupy us for many a day. We have become quite fond of the little brown puppy, which we have named Jock. It is very teachable, and is immensely interested in the cattle that pass, barking with great energy at them.
Wednesday, March13.—Mr. Keytel intended leaving to-day but theGreyhoundhas not made its appearance; it is thought it is becalmed. All the better for our letters. This morning Mr. Keytel photographed a group of all the islanders, then the women only, and afterwards the men. The photographs were taken on the common just outside our house.
Thursday, March14.—Such a large ship is passing and the men, I think, would go out to it were they not waiting to go out to the schooner, which is now in front of the settlement.
[Illustration: COMPLETE GROUP OF THE ISLANDERS]
Tuesday, March19.—TheGreyhoundafter all did not leave last week; the sea was too rough for the boats to go out. It did not get off till yesterday, due partly to the caution of the captain who would keep away from land and partly to the weather. We two sent off about one hundred and twenty letters. The captain wanted to see Graham to show him how to read a barometer sent by the Cape Meteorological Commission. I thought I would go too and take Ellen. We had no sooner put out to sea than we realized it was going to be much rougher than we anticipated, and, theGreyhoundstanding out after the cautious manner of her captain, we had some distance to go. Mr. Keytel was out fishing and was to follow. We all kept well till we got to the ship. Clambering up the rope ladder we were soon on board and being greeted by such a kind old captain. He was seventy-four years old with snow-white hair and had only one eye. Graham soon sank into a chair and was quite past reading barometers or anything else. He could just assent to remarks made to him by the captain and that was all. Ellen was in no better plight and sat on a bench near me, and I cannot say I felt cheerful, for the schooner, which was empty and had not much ballast, was rolling considerably. I carried on various conversations and strained my eyes to see if Mr. Keytel's boat was coming. It was a long wait, and when at last he did get on board he had gifts to bestow upon the men before we could get off. How thankful we were when that moment came; even then there were many adieux to be said. I was thankful to see that Graham and Ellen were capable of descending the ladder. The wind was rising and the sea sweeping in from the west. But I felt complete confidence in the men, they are such good seamen and so thoroughly understand their boats and what they are capable of. The two boats began to race, and we simply flew through the water. It was splendid. We soon gained the shore, and it was with no little satisfaction we saw ourselves at home. Then we retired to our beds, Graham not to appear again until next day, for he had a racking headache. After lunch Ellen and I tried to tidy the sitting-room, which was strewn with packages.
To-day has been entirely taken up with the distribution of goods amongst the people. The boxes had first to be sorted out; one had no name on, and one of the crockery cases could not at first be found, having been addressed differently to the other Government cases. These crockery cases took some time to unpack. The contents made a grand show laid out in Bob Green's house. They were—
1 dozen brown earthenware teapots. 5 dozen plates. 5 dozen soup-plates. Vegetable dishes. 6 dozen cups and saucers. 1 dozen flowered bowls and covers. 2 dozen tumblers. 5 dozen egg-cups. 8 saucepans. Pails and other useful things; it is a most useful gift.
I must now describe the people's way of dividing these goods, which is their usual method of distribution. When an equal number of each set had been given round to every family, and there were some over but not enough to go round again, they put these with those things of which there were not enough to go round, such as the teapots, saucepans and pails. Then they arranged these in seventeen lots on the floor, taking care to make each lot, as far as was possible, of the same value. The number seventeen was chosen because there are seventeen families. One man now turned his back, generally looking out at the door; another standing over the things pointed with his finger to one of the lots and said "That." The man whose back was turned called out in answer the name of the woman of a family, till each family had had a turn. The people stood or sat round. They have apparently worked this method out for themselves and find it creates less feeling than any other. This took all the morning.
The afternoon was devoted to the division of material and clothing at the Repettos' house. There was a goodly supply. A lady at Eastbourne who for many years has taken a deep interest in the islanders, had sent enough grey woollen material for all the women to have a jacket. Others sent two large bales of brown calico, a good quantity of red and grey flannel, and enough strong blue serge and brown tweed for every man to have a pair of trousers. There was also sent a great quantity of clothes. This "sharing out" went on till dusk. Finally a large box of sweets, the gift of Mr. Keytel, was distributed among the children. When we got home we began to unpack our own parcels. There are some large packages of papers which take a long time to sort and divide.
After our unwonted doings we are all feeling rather tired and not capable of doing much, but still we have begun school, as the children had a holiday all the time the schooner was here.
This afternoon I went up with some medicine for Mrs. Henry Green, who has caught a bad chill. As she seems very short of warm clothing I have given her a jacket and skirt of those sent me.