Chapter 15

LISBON FROM THE NORTH.

LISBON FROM THE NORTH.

LISBON FROM THE NORTH.

The next day at noon I stood and gazed over an indigo sea, from whose waves the light breeze lifted the white foam and cast it wantonly to leeward in a shower of diamonds. All along the coast gleaming towns nestled in the laps of the hills. The mountains of fair Lusitania, pine-clad to the tops, were slowly receding from my view, covered with a glory of opal grey and gold, touched here and there where the shadows fellwith tints of darkling green and lavender, whilst the sky over all melted from a horizon of palest primrose, through turquoise, to an illimitable vault of sapphire. As the lovely scene faded in the distance, and the bold jagged rocks of Spain loomed ahead, I turned away full of thankfulness for the ineffable beauty of the world: but I could find no word to say more than the quaint outburst of the simple-minded priest whom the Emperor sent to bring home his Portuguese bride five centuries ago: “O Portugallia, O Portugallia, bona regio!” Fifty-two hours afterwards I was shrinking from the chill embrace of a November fog in London.

8.Oswald Crawford, “Portugal: Old and New.”

8.Oswald Crawford, “Portugal: Old and New.”

9.The manuscript quoted is in the Vatican Library, and is reproduced at length by Herculano in an article calledArcheologia Portugezain “Opusculos.”

9.The manuscript quoted is in the Vatican Library, and is reproduced at length by Herculano in an article calledArcheologia Portugezain “Opusculos.”

10.There are fourteen of the same sort in the Cathedral of Viseu, one the famous St. Peter.

10.There are fourteen of the same sort in the Cathedral of Viseu, one the famous St. Peter.

11.The whole interior width of the church is only 46 feet, much less than the nave alone of Toledo, Seville, or York.

11.The whole interior width of the church is only 46 feet, much less than the nave alone of Toledo, Seville, or York.


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