CHAPTER XII.

CHAPTER XII.Sail for the North West Coast. Am required to sign the ship's articles. Trouble with officers. Anchor at New Archangel. Dogs trained to the harness. Leave the ship. Fall in with an Indian hunting party. Their manners and customs. Humanity of an Indian. Return to St. Lucas. Goes over land to St. Josephs. Lives with a Catholic priest. Narrow escape. Arrive at San Blass. Ship for Buenos Ayres. Fearful passage of the straits of Magellan in a storm. Description of Buenos Ayres.I was left upon a miserable shore among the Spaniards with whom I could hold no conversation whatever. Their proverbial hospitality was extended to me during the few days I was to remain there.The brig Congress, Capt. Strong, of Valparaiso, bound for the N. W. Coast, coming to anchor there, I shipped myself on board, for eighteen dollars per month.Watering the ship we proceeded to Sir F. Drake's bay, where we attempted to take some Sea Elephants, but did not succeed. Here we remained only a few days.Again we weighed anchor and stood to sea before a fine breeze. Spreading our studding-sails to a strong south wind we glided swiftly on.When out to sea all hands were called and the ship's articles read, and those who had not signed them, were requested to do so at that time.The articles forbid our trading with any person onshore, under the penalty of forfeiting our wages. Turning around, I said "Well, boys! here we are, under martial laws, but I don't see the pendant flying."The captain flew into a perfect rage, and came up to me asking, "What did you say,sir?" I laughingly said, "I have no handle to my name yet." At this he was still more enraged than before, and told me to stop my sauce, at the same time called upon Mr. Williams, the mate, to put me in irons.I told them they had better be passed by, for there would most certainly difficulty attend it, for I knew the crew would not suffer it to be done.At this instant the steward appeared with a pair of pistols, which he laid on the companion.Old Jack, as he was called, a rough old fellow, being then at the wheel, seeing them, came forward and threw them overboard, saying he should like to be a participator in the affair, and bid the master be quiet for he was there himself.Strong seeing there was no alternative, let the matter drop, and all things went on harmoniously till we arrived at Nootka Sound.One morning, being released from the wheel which I had held for six hours, I was told there was no breakfast for me. Taking the kid (a small wooden dish which our meat, potatoes, &c., are put in) under my arm, I walked up to the captain, and said, "I would thank him for some meat for breakfast." He replied, "You have had meat enough, if not, eat the kid.""Well, sir," said I, "you shall have the first taste and see how you like it," at the same time giving him a hearty slap in the face with it, knocking him over,when I asked him if it was seasoned too high or not. The mate caught me by the neck, saying, "you mutinous rascal, do you mean to take the ship?" and dealt me a blow. The kid, still with me, was submitted to his decision. I then ordered them to put me on shore, which, as they could not mould me into any shape they wished, they concluded to do at Nootka.When we came to anchor, I packed my clothes and prepared to start. When all was ready, I bid an adieu to captain, crew, and ship, and stepped into the boat, when most of the crew came forward with their things also packed, declaring their intention of leaving if I did. The captain seeing the dilemma he would be in should such be the case, recalled me, offering me kind treatment and every privilege I could in reason expect.I again went upon duty. Still I could see the captain and mate had not entirely lost the taste of the kid. We went on shore. It being the last of October, the weather was cold indeed. Snow was six or eight inches deep. Bought furs, hides, tallow, &c. Here we remained five days.Weighing anchor again, we stood for New Archangel, a Russian settlement, where we came to anchor. A Russian man-of-war with two or three other vessels was lying there.The houses of the people are built of logs and made very warm and tight. The soldiers were busy drawing wood to the barracks on sledges with dogs. Ten or fifteen are harnessed to a sledge as the occasion may require, having a collar and a single trace running over the back. They are not tied together, but draw independent of each other, each having a trace by himself,the most docile one having the longest trace, and is the leader.The dog that is struck, generally the hind one, draws back and springs upon the next one, and he upon the next, and so a blow given to one, seldom fails to produce a general snarling among them.Ten dogs thus harnessed will draw half a cord of wood at a time, at the rate of six miles per hour.Knowing the treatment I should receive when I arrived at Valparaiso for striking the captain and mate with the kid, I was induced to leave the ship and try a life with the natives, and persuaded one shipmate to join me. Accordingly, before the ship was to depart, we went ashore with the captain, taking what clothes we could possibly wear without detection. As we made the shore, the captain stepped out, saying he should be back in a few moments, and bid us not leave the boat at all. Soon as he was out of sight we took to our heels, and made for the woods, leaving him to officiate in the several capacities of captain, oarsman, and boat-keeper.On we traveled until near night, when we heard the sound of some one chopping wood. Guided by the sound, we followed on, hoping to find some human habitation. The sound dying away, we heard a low humming or singing, and on coming upon a little hill, we saw a large fire, which we at once recognized as the camp ground of an Indian hunting party, and we resolved to go to them, being almost frozen.As we came near them the dogs with loud barking aroused the Indians, who came out with their guns. We hurried on, fearing they might fire upon us. Thedogs gave way and the Indians came forward to meet us a few rods from the camp.We shook hands with one and all as a token of friendship. Soon as they understood our cold and hungry situation, with the spirit of benevolence which is so justly applied to them, they set about rendering us as comfortable as possible, giving us to eat of their humble fare, after which we were nicely wrapped in skins for the night, when we slept very finely indeed.Soon as daylight appeared a party was despatched for game for breakfast. Returning they were richly loaded with one deer, squirrels, rabbits, and other small game, in great abundance, which was given to the females, whose duty it is to prepare and cook it. We made a fine breakfast, after which they made preparations to proceed on their journey, which lay to the northward. As we wished to go to the southward we were obliged to part. Again we took one and all by the hand in token of gratitude for kindnesses shown us.The clothing of the males consists of a coat of fur which extends below the knees. Below this they wear a leggin of fine fur neatly wrought with shells of various kinds and colors. Over the shoulders is thrown loosely a blanket or cloak, also made of fur. The head is covered with feathers wrought into a cap-like form. Their arms are a hatchet, knife and gun. Their habitation, the wide world, having no place whatever they call home, pitching their tents of skins where night overtakes them.The dress of the females differs from that of the males somewhat. The cloak or mantle is made to cover the whole body, and large enough to allow the mother tocarry the child upon her back, its legs resting across its mother's hips and its head above the mantle. The mother carries her child upon her back until it is three or four years old, when, if a boy, the father trains him to hunt; if a girl, she is taught to dress the food and cure the skins.Near the close of day we fell in with another Indian who was hunting alone, with two dogs. Soon as we came in sight the dogs started to come for us, and had not the hunter held them till we came up, would have done so. The moment he shook hands with us they seemed to understand we were friends, and would play around us like kittens. He asked in broken English, "where go?" We told him to New Archangel. Placing his hand upon his breast said, "me go," meaning he would accompany us.The dogs coming upon track of some animal, sprang off and were soon lost from sight. The hunter hearing their bark, bent his ear to the ground to catch the sound and determine the distance, and sprang away. Soon we heard the sharp report of his rifle, at the same time he gave a loud whoop as a signal to us. We followed on and found him with a deer nearly dressed, the dogs lying by his side, waiting their portion. Folding up the skin, he quartered him and cut a portion up for the dogs. Going to the side of a high ledge, he built a fire and roasted one quarter, which we nearly devoured. Taking the remainder on our shoulders we followed the Indian. The moon shining very brightly added much to the pleasantness of the scene. Gaining an eminence our friend gave a loud whoop which was answered by some one in the distance. Smilingly he said, "man—man,"and renewed his pace. Soon we came to a large fire, around which were seated a number of Indians, who arose as we came up and extended the hand, welcoming us to their camp.After again partaking of roasted venison we were shown to our bed, which was simply a skin warm from the back of a deer, spread upon the snow, having another thrown over us. The fire is kept burning during the night. With the first light of morning we were called to breakfast, which was ready, the person who watched the fire having cooked it, which consisted again of roasted venison.This being over we bade adieu to all except the one with whom we went to the camp, and started for New Archangel, at which place we arrived before night; found the vessel gone. We then shook hands with the Indian in token of gratitude for the assistance he had afforded us, when with tears in his eyes he said, "me love do good."Often have I read, when a boy, of the kindness of the North American Indian to the weary, wandering white man, even while hostilities were raging between them; and at the very time we were shown to the paths of civilization, our American Congress were legislating on the best means for their utter annihilation, calling to their aid the Cubian bloodhounds.Here we found a man, formerly of New York, who had been in the Russian service twenty years, and was at that time purser or clerk of the ship, and was then bound to Mazatlan, in Mexico. Through him we obtained an opportunity of working our passage to that place.With light hearts we left the N. W. Coast for a more genial clime. On arriving at St. Lucas I thought I would leave the ship, as I had been previously somewhat acquainted there, while my shipmate went on to Mazatlan.As was my happy lot I fell in with the same persons I met with in my other visit, who seemed delighted at my return. I remained with them a few days, when it was proposed that I should accompany them to St. Josephs, about seventy miles, to attend Christmas, to which I readily assented, caring not whither I went. At about three o'clock in the afternoon we started, seven of us, all mounted on asses, following one after the other. Coming to a large field, we turned our asses loose that they might refresh themselves, while we cooked a hasty supper. Again we mounted and were under way, having then about fifty miles to go. They being anxious to reach St. Josephs that night rode very fast. About twelve they suddenly stopped, dismounted and ordered me to do the same. Standing a few moments, the asses knelt and commenced a tremendous braying. The Spaniards kneeling by their sides, went through a sort of prayer. This I suppose was in commemoration of the day. Why the asses should thus kneel was a great mystery to me. I could not believe it to be intuitive, yet I did not see any sign by which the wish of the Spaniard was made known, and to this day my mind is not satisfied about the matter.We reached St. Josephs about sunrise, rode up to the Chapel, before which the Spaniards crossed themselves many times, then to the dwelling of the Padre or Priest, where the like crossing was performed. The asses werethen put out in a large field, where were nearly three hundred. All persons coming thither for the observance of Christmas were allowed to place them there.About noon an interpreter came with one of the Spaniards, and asked me if I would take charge of the priest's horses and do his out-of-door work. This I was willing to do, and immediately went upon the duties. Things passed along finely for a few weeks, when I became acquainted with an American pedler, through whom I ignorantly became embroiled with the priest and came near losing my head in consequence. I knew nothing of the affair until the officers were actually on the track for me, when I fled with my best abilities for the harbor, which was eight miles from St. Josephs, over hills and through swamps, swimming one or two little streams.On reaching the water I plunged in and swam for a sloop which was laying out a little. The mate threw me a rope by which I crawled up the ship's side. I told him my story, at which he seemed much pleased. He said if the captain was aboard, I should be sent on shore, but as it was he would try to save me. He took me below and secreted me, where the captain would know nothing of it, leaving me provision to last till they would be out to sea, which would probably be on the return of the captain.The sloop was owned by the captain, who was an Irishman, and all of the crew were either French or Spanish, except the mate, who was an Englishman.The captain came, hoisted anchor, and stood out to sea. When the bustle attendant upon leaving the harbor was over, the captain related the story as he heardit at St. Josephs, which at that time had gained great publicity there. It was his opinion I should lose my head, for he was sure I should be taken. The mate hearing what the captain had to say respecting it, called me from my hiding place, to tell my own story. The captain was greatly astonished, and for a moment hesitated whether he should not put back with me; and I think perhaps he might have done so, had not the mate strongly remonstrated with him.It was long a question with them how they should work the affair with the Alcalda (or governor) of San Blass, who would most certainly come aboard, either in person or by his vigilant officers, for the ship's papers, &c. Upon my repeatedly promising to keep my own counsel he agreed to write me a passport and forge the Alcalda's name of St. Josephs.The passport was written and signed, and on handing it to me, he said, "Jack, you no lie." Again I told him I would not expose him, even on the pain of death. The third day we reached San Blass. We were no sooner in the harbor than the officer was aboard for the papers. Seeing me, he asked in Spanish who I was, and was informed I was from St. Josephs. He asked for my passport, which after examining, he returned to me. Leaving the sloop I went on shore and joined a Mexican man-of-war-brig, which was laying there protecting the harbor. Mexico and Columbia were then in a state of hostility towards each other.We cruised around the gulf a few days, and again stood for San Blass; running upon a reef we bilged our vessel. Thinking I had served long enough in theMexican service, I took my clothes, without saying a word to the officers, and went on shore.Finding the brig Romance, Capt. Johnson, lying there, bound for Buenos Ayres, laden with Indigo and cocoa, I shipped myself on board. The cocoa, with which we were laden, is a small nut, of the size of a large chestnut, from which chocolate is made; it grows in pods like peas, and is cultivated like corn yearly.We spread our sails to a steady, strong north wind, as much as we could possibly stagger under. Stowed anchors, and made all things snug about deck. Sailed under Peruvian colors to avoid detection. As we came abreast Panama, the wind died away, and left us almost becalmed for a few hours, when it veered around to the northwest, suddenly, and freshened into a stiff breeze, which wafted us nearly to the Straits of Magellan, as quick, I think, as ever vessel sped before the wind. Here the wind, without seeming to cease for a moment, turned into the south and blew a perfect gale. We hove her to under close reefed main-top-sail, for five days, when we wore ship, and stood in shore, the wind still continuing in the south. The Captain concluded to try the Straits the next day, rather than risk doubling the Cape with such a wind.The Straits of Magellan lie in about 53° south latitude, and were discovered by Fernando Magellan, whose name they bear; they are about 350 miles long, and are at the Pacific entrance, 25 miles wide, and the eastern side about 20. In some parts they are not more than a league broad. The general form is that of a crescent, while the whole course is zigzag. The Pacific side is several feet the highest, causing a current sostrong as to bid defiance to its passage from the eastern side. The sides are lined with high and craggy rocks, rising almost perpendicularly. Over them the Magellan clouds, so called from their position, always are seen, and to a great distance, apprising the mariner of his proximity to the almost only place which he allows himself to fear,—Cape Horn.The next morning came with the wind still blowing from the south; we made preparations for entering the Straits as was proposed. The flaws of wind which struck the vessel with the strong current, hurried us on with the rapidity of lightning. We were obliged to stand by the halyards and braces constantly, night and day, so often were we called upon to tack ship, in consequence of the many crooked turnings in our course, and flaws of wind which struck us from all quarters, breaking over the high rocks, which lined the straits.The rocks which lined the shore were capped with snow and ice, which seemed ready to fall and crush us. Innumerable quantities of seals were seen lying along the shore. Shrimp and penguins also were seen in great numbers.As we neared the Atlantic side, the wind and the force of the current became less. This distance was performed in forty-five hours from the time we entered the western side; and during the time not a man of us left the deck, except in pursuance of some order.Getting a good offing, we shaped our course for Buenos Ayres, where we landed, six weeks after leaving San Blass. Discharging our cargo, we were allowed a little time on shore, which I readily improved in wandering about the city. The La Plata, on which BuenosAyres stands at a distance of 200 miles, is about 170 miles wide at its mouth, and can be navigated by large ships to a distance of 800 miles.The situation of the city is delightful. The houses are built of brick, with flat roofs, and of one story usually, though some are seen two stories high; a garden is usually attached.The public buildings are a Palace, Royal Chapel, a most magnificent Cathedral, and many Churches. The principal square faces the La Plata, and is indeed very spacious.There is no harbor at Buenos Ayres; and ships can only come within seven or eight miles of the town, where they discharge their cargoes into lighters, which take them ashore.The population is about 70,000, consisting of whites, Indians, and negroes. Slaves are quite numerous, and are treated much better than in any other place I ever visited. The old are particularly well attended to. The climate is indeed favorable to health. Violent winds are often-experienced, which raise clouds of dust, filling their houses completely, and almost entirely obscuring the sun.CHAPTER XIII.Return to San Blass. Description of the Town. Strikes a Spaniard, and resists the Police. Is placed in the Stocks. Goes on board the Tammercee. The Captain is employed to take a quantity of Gold to England. Fight between the Officers. Anchor at Tehuantepec for Dye-Stuffs. Precaution used against Scorpions, Centipedes, &c. Arrival at Panama. Scenes on Shore. Arrive at Callao. Ride to Lima. Description of Lima. Arrival at Valparaiso. Again double the Cape on the wings of the wind. Arrival at Liverpool. Sketch of the City.Getting in a cargo of dry goods, we set sail for San Blass. Smoothly we glided down the La Plata, having a gentle west wind which lasted till we made the Falklands.Seemingly unwilling we should double the Cape with any degree of pleasantness, it veered round to the south, and freshening each moment, soon blew a hurricane which lasted thirty-six hours. When moderating, and at the same time shifting into the east, we braced full, and stood for the Cape; for eleven days the wind continued in the east, and gave us a fine passage around the Cape. We were accompanied on our way by a large Iceberg of the largest dimensions, which kept within half a mile of us for twenty-four hours.The wind again, in a very accommodating manner, turned in our favor, driving us before it with great velocity under close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail, for fourteen days, at which time we reached Valparaiso.Still favoring, though more lightly, we were enabled to reach San Blass in about the same time required for the outward bound voyage. Discharging our cargo we were paid off. I then went to the city of San Blass, which is five or six miles from the beach. As I remained there but a short time, I cannot be expected to give a full account of the city, which is situated on an eminence which rises an hundred or two feet gradually from the sea; and is enclosed by a huge wall, having only two gates or entrances into it. One of these is on the north side; the other, on the west side. A part of the wall which faces the sea, is built upon a ledge of rocks which rise almost perpendicular, and forms an impregnable barrier. The walls are heavily mounted with guns on the side towards the sea, and manned continually. The dwellings are mostly built of stone of ancient architecture; low and covered with tiles. The streets are narrow and dirty, though mostly paved with stone. Dissipation is carried in every thing to a great length. The inhabitants are, in a great degree, low and sensual. One day, while on shore, I traded with a Spaniard, with whom I had a few hasty words; his insolence I could not bear, and gave him a severe blow which felled him to the ground. Seeing the police on the alert I ran for the sea. Soon they overtook me. I gave the first one a blow, and threw him over a wall down a bank of a few feet. Finding more than I could easily handle, I surrendered. I was taken before the governor, who caused me to be placed in the stocks for twenty-four hours.I had my hands, feet, and neck, placed in the stocks, which was in the hot sun, upon the burning sand, duringthe day; I had to look continually up to the sun, and ere night was almost blind; my face badly swollen, and almost blistered. Swarms of mosquitoes and fleas visited me at night, each paying their respects, leaving an impression upon my feelings. Crowds of natives gathered around, offering me every insult they were capable of doing. When I was taken from the stocks I could hardly walk or stand, and it required several days for me to regain the use of my limbs to any comfortable degree.Soon as I was able I crawled down to the shore, and fell in with Captain Masters, of the ship Tammercee of Liverpool, whither he would sail in a few days. Knowing he was in want of hands, I offered myself for thirty-seven dollars per month: this he was unwilling to give. Meeting him again in a few days, he said he had seen my former captain, who gave me a good character, and a reputation as a seaman, therefore he would give me the desired wages.I went on board and was given the second mate's duty, which the ship carpenter had performed.At evening the captain selected six of us to follow him on shore. We went to a house where there was a quantity of gold coins, mostly doubloons. He ordered us to take as many as we could carry, and go for the ship. This was done twice, and daylight coming on, we were deterred from going again. This was the property of resident merchants, who wished to make a deposit in the Bank of England, and were obliged to resort to this expedient on account of the laws, which prohibited their removal. We received a present fromthe merchants of a doubloon each for our services, and as a sort of bribe to keep silence.The third day after I shipped on board we set sail. This was quite the latter part of May, 1838. Mr. Evans (mate) came on board in a state of intoxication, which was the cause of hard words between him and the captain, who was a person capable of the highest degree of excitement. The captain becoming enraged, seized a spyglass and hurled it at the mate, striking him on the head and brought him to the deck; collecting himself, he passed it back in the same way, but missed his aim. Exasperated to a still greater degree, the captain rushed to the cabin and brought forward a pair of pistols, intending to shoot the mate down. His wife being aboard, and seeing by his manner there was likely to be trouble, rushed up first and placed herself between him and the mate, bidding him fire if he chose. A moment sufficed to cool him down in a measure, and the matter was dropped by putting the mate off duty for ten days.We came to anchor at the Gulf of Tehuantepec, or the roadstead of Rosario, and moored with a swivel.—We sent down the top-gallant masts and yards, and got ready to take on a cargo at Nicaragua.The shore at this place as well as most others on the Mexican coast is almost inaccessible, from the high rolling surf, which at this time was altogether so for the boats. There are but few harbors in Mexico; consequently we anchored the long boat out about sixty fathoms from the beach, and erected a capstan on the shore; a block was fastened to the bow of the boat, through which a hawser was passed, which also went around the capstan on shore, thus forming a continuousline from the boat to the shore. Natives were employed to lash the wood, which is cut in sticks about four feet long, to one side of the hawser and pull upon the other, and thus convey it to the boat, where men were stationed to untie and load it into other boats, and then to the ship. This wood is very rough, and full of holes and crevices, into which scorpions, centipedes, and a small blue snake, of five or six inches in length, crawl. On removing or handling it, they run out and bite the first object that comes in their way or happens to touch them.The bite or sting of the scorpion is said to prove fatal many times in two hours; their bite in the spring and summer months are said, by Pike, to be much more suddenly fatal. He also says, in speaking of them as found in other portions of Mexico: "remove them three leagues and they become perfectly harmless and lose all their venomous qualities." As a preventive we took three bottles of spirits, (old rum) and put a scorpion in one, a centipede in another, reserving the third for the snake; they were put in alive and allowed to die in the spirits. These to be used by applying the spirits of the respective bottles to the wounds of the different species. Fortunately for us but one was bitten, which was cured by immediate application of the spirits.A disturbance arose to our quiet one day between the captain and one of the crew, which resulted in throwing the sailor on shore, one hundred miles nearly from a habitation of any kind, except temporary ones erected by the natives who came from Acapulco, 100 miles distant, to cut and deliver the wood to ships. Seeing a shipmate thus turned off, without clothes except thoseworn off, with no particular means of subsistence, was more than I could endure, and I resolved to assist him. The next morning I went to the long boat as usual, taking with me two shirts and a pound of tobacco rolled up as compactly as possible. Getting to the boat I jumped over and swam as far as I could, then caught hold of the hawser for the surf or swells to pass me; dropping into the smooth sea I exerted every nerve to reach the shore before the next sea; this I was unable to do. Soon the next swell was upon me, and by its impetus I was thrown high upon the sand insensible. The natives took me up and rubbed me for a long time before I could be brought to a state of consciousness, when they gave me some spirits to drink, and in a few hours I was enabled to walk out.At night the ship's boat was sent to take me off; the surf running so high rendered it impossible to do so, only by rowing above about five miles to a small cove. Going on board I met the captain at the gangway, who said:"Well, boy, how is that old pelt of yours? have you got it scorched any?""No, sir" said I; "I have had too much experience in that business, to have the sun effect me any more than it does an alligator!"Having finished our cargo we weighed anchor, double reefed our top-sails, set our course and stood off. Our vessel being a fast sailer, and the wind blowing a half gale from the west, soon brought us abreast of Panama. Being in want of ship stores, we put into the bay of the same name, and came to anchor. Sent a boat on shore and procured a supply of water, which was of the finestquality, and necessary stores, and were again ready for sea.The afternoon previous to sailing we were allowed on shore, when we fell in with a company of soldiers belonging to the fort. With them we drank several times. Finding at length I was growing quite stupid—an effect altogether different from what liquor usually produces on me, I was confident it had been drugged for some purpose. Seeing the sad dilemma into which we were hastening, I proposed to walk out and work it off if possible. But we were already within their clutches. They followed and easily prevailed upon us to visit the fort to "enjoy a view of it by lamplight." I was conscious they were imposing upon us, still I could not stop; their serpent-like charms were successfully thrown around me; to resist I could not. They led us in and about the fort, pointing out its particular points of combined beauty and strength. We thought no more of duties on ship-board, or of our situation, till a late hour at night, when the effects of the drugs were leaving us.In the morning the true nature of our situation found itself upon us. With apparent satisfaction we sent out for a bottle of spirits, which was soon brought to us. On looking around a little we found others decoyed and confined in a like manner; among them was a stout, seven-foot Irishman. We gave him a good supply of spirits, and then held up to his view the great wrong we as well as himself had sustained. Gradually the true Irish blood was seen to work in his bosom, as he reflected upon his situation and wrongs, until he became perfectly exasperated. Clenching his fists, he said:"An' sure we'll be after leaving this place, we will."He became violent in threatenings. The guard hearing a noise, came to learn the cause. Soon as the door was opened, the guard was seized and hurled by his arm, (now rendered doubly powerful by alcohol and anger,) half way across the yard. Others following closely up, were passed along also, till half a dozen were thus promiscuously piled up, scarce knowing how to find themselves. With a mighty effort we then rushed over those that stood outside the door, who in their dismay knew not what to do till so late that action would have been fruitless.We ran as fast as possible to the beach and seized a boat, and went to the ship. Telling the mate of the adventure, he immediately lowered a boat and sent for the captain, who was on shore; meanwhile he got the anchor up and was ready for sea.The captain coming aboard, we bid farewell to Panama, leaving our harbor fees unpaid.What became of the Irishman I never knew, as he took a different course from the rest of us after leaving the fort.Nothing of note occurred until we were off the coast of Peru and dropped our anchor at Callao, the seaport of Lima, the capital of Peru, which is situated seven miles from the shore. After the ship was well secured, a ride was proposed to Lima, in which several of us joined. We proceeded to a stable in which were a great number of horses, trained to the saddle alone. Each procured one by paying a dollar in advance, with which a ticket also was obtained for entrance into the city. Those horses were so well trained that they requiredno guidance whatever; by simply throwing the line upon the neck loosely, they set off into a fine gallop, which they held till they reached the city.On starting we received an urgent injunction to "look well to the saddle," they care but little about the horse. Arriving at the gates of the city, a sentry appeared who demanded our tickets, which, after examining, he handed back and allowed us to pass on. The horses setting off at full gallop soon brought us to another stable, which is connected with the one at which we obtained our horses. Here we dismounted, giving ourselves no farther trouble about them. We wandered around the city as long as we chose. When returning to the stable we found our horses refreshed, with no additional expense, and ready to take us back to Callao.The waters of the Rimac, on which Lima is situated, are clear and transparent. The city is four miles long, by two broad, and is surrounded by brick walls, which are heavily mounted with cannon.This city, next to Mexico, is the finest built by the Spaniards in the New World; its streets are straight and handsome; the houses are built only of one story, on account of earthquakes by which they are frequented. Lima was founded by Pizarro in 1534, and by him calledLos Reges, or the "City of the Kings." Like all other Spanish cities, Lima has a great square in the centre, where all the principal streets terminate. On this square the principal public buildings stand; such as the cathedral, the university, the treasury, the arsenal, and the town hall.The churches and convents are still beautiful, though robbed of vast wealth during the last revolution. Itis estimated that about one-fourth of the population are whites.Leaving Callao we had a fine breeze, set studding-sails alow and aloft. When abreast Valparaiso, the wind veered around into the south and blew a stiff breeze, which obliged us to lay off and on for a few days. The wind dying away, we put into the harbor of Valparaiso, which is the most singular one I ever entered. The water is of vast depth, being upwards of fifty fathoms within a short distance of the town. We spent some little time on shore, which we enjoyed very finely indeed; found the natives kind and hospitable. The men follow the European fashion of dress, while the females adhere strictly to that of Peru. Many of the common and lower classes wear the ponsha, which is simply a large cloth with a hole in it for the neck. In the use of the lasso they equal if not excel any other people, throwing it with the greatest precision. Children at an early age practice the lasso upon poultry and cats, which they throw with unerring aim.By the gradual change in the temperature of the atmosphere we were forcibly reminded of nearness to the Cape, which we were again to double. Finding the quantity of spirits on hand insufficient as we then thought for the occasion, we told the captain we would not double the Cape with so small a supply. Against this he remonstrated. We urged him to compliance.After spending a week at Valparaiso, we left the harbor and stood at sea with a fair wind from the west; thus we ran about thirty-six hours, when the wind hauled into the north."Dreary and hollow moans foretold a gale;Nor long the issue tarried; then the wind,Unprisoned, blew its trumpet loud and shrill;*    *    *    *    the rainCame down like music."The fore and main royals were clewed up; the breeze still freshening, we clewed up and stowed the fore and main-top-gallant sails, running thus until near daylight, when we single reefed the top-sails. At twelve that day, were under close reefed main-top-sail and reefed fore-sail, bounding along at the rate of twelve knots per hour. Thus we ran until we sighted Terra del Fuego. As we hauled around the Cape the wind seemed to follow us; the sea ran quarterly on the vessel and very high.A heavy sea struck us on our quarter, and hove her on her beam ends; immediately letting go the fore sheet relieved her, and again she righted, broaching to as she done so. Hauling up and stowing her fore-sail, we hove her to, headed towards the Atlantic. The wind again shifted into the southwest, and abated somewhat, still the sea ran high indeed. We made all sail possible and drove her through the swells; sometimes she would scoop up water with her bows and throw it off astern, washing the men about deck in spite of all efforts to the contrary.The weather was intensely cold, and, had we been compelled to have staid there much longer, I fear we should have frozen to death, for our clothes were already stiff with ice.The wind continued in the southward till we reached the entrance of St. George's Channel; cast lead and found sixty fathoms of water; then bearing full, we sawCape Clear in a few hours. The wind heading us blew down the channel for three days, during which we could make no progress at all. This seemed indeed tedious, being so near our port of destination. The wind springing up, and all sail set, we ran up the channel for Liverpool; took in a pilot at Holy Head, who hove us to at the Old Alms Head that night, and took us in the next morning.As we came along the pier head we hired men to secure the sails, such was our anxiety to be on shore. The next day we were paid off, and took our chests to the boarding-house.Liverpool, at the mouth of the Mersey, on the Irish Sea, is an important commercial city, being next to London, the greatest port in the British empire.It is situated from Manchester thirty-six miles, and two hundred and four from London. The city is irregularly built, but the public buildings are elegant.The Exchange is double the size of the Royal Exchange of London, and cost the immense sum of £100,000.The Town Hall is another noble edifice.Liverpool is the grand medium through which the trade of England with Ireland and with this country is carried on; and a vast quantity of business is transacted by its merchants with the ports of the Mediterranean, East Indies, and other parts of the world. Cotton is the leading article of import, and is extensively used in the manufactures of Lancashire, of which, in 1830, out of 793,695 bales imported into England, 703,200 were brought into Liverpool.The duties paid at the custom-house of Liverpool in1837, were four millions, three hundred and fifty-one thousand, four hundred and ninety-six pounds, being about a fifth of those paid throughout the whole kingdom.Liverpool is the greatest outlet for the goods manufactured in Lancashire and Yorkshire, for sale in America. The town, thus so extensively concerned in that commerce from which England derives its chief glory, presents many external features not unworthy of its mercantile character. Of these the chief are thedocks, the sight of which, bristling with numberless masts, and a scene of constant bustle from loading and unloading, fills a stranger with amazement. The town contains several handsome streets, the chief being Castle street and Dale street. There are many well conducted charitable institutions. About fifteen hundred patients are admitted annually in the infirmary.The Blue-Coat hospital maintains and educates about two hundred boys and girls.The school for the blind is on a most extensive scale.A handsome and spacious theatre, and a circus, are open during a great part of the year.At the Royal Liverpool Institution, public lectures are given; and attached to it is a philosophical apparatus and a museum of natural curiosities.A Botanic Garden was established in 1801, at the expense of about ten thousand pounds.Among the remarkable objects connected with the town, the ornamental cemetery of St. James, formed out of an old stone quarry, is worthy of particular notice.CHAPTER XIV.Proceed to New Brunswick. Encounter a severe storm. Come near losing the ship. Arrived at Delhouse. Sickness of the author. Bleeds himself. His end apparently approaches. Timely assistance. Sails for Quebec. Description of the Citadel. A sketch of its history.I remained at Liverpool only a few days, when I shipped on board the barque Asia, Capt. Hannah, (a Scotchman) as second mate. Ten days from the time of my arrival on the Tammercee we weighed anchor and put to sea, bound for Delhouse, N. B.We proceeded down the channel with a head wind until abreast the Tuscan light, when the wind favoring us, we soon lost sight of the land.We had a good passage until we reached the New Foundland banks. These are immense sand banks or shoals which greatly endanger the safety of vessels bound thither. In the spring of the year they are covered with ice which washes down the Davis straits from the more frozen regions. Then it is, that ships are obliged to lay to, during the night.The wind now hauled round from the northwest and blew a complete hurricane for about six hours, when it abated and fell into a calm. During the calm, we caught several codfish and halibut.The dense fog which arose was a sure omen of a southerly wind. For this we made ready. The windcame at length like a "cat's paw" upon the water. Sails were trimmed, studding-sails set, &c. The wind increased every moment, and in the course of two hours we were obliged to take in the studding-sails, and top-gallant-sails, and in the course of three hours were under close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail. Thus we run until the captain thought us to be in the Gulf of St. Lawrence; and about 12 o'clock at night altered our course one point. At 4 the next morning I called the mate. I had scarcely laid my head on the pillow, when I heard the order, "port your helm, put hard to port," and at the same time, "haul in the larboard braces, quick; bear a hand my good fellows or we are all on the beach." At this I sprung upon deck, with nothing on, save a shirt and a pair of drawers, and met the captain in the same dress as myself. After the helm had been hard put to port, she came around on her keel, a thing which I never saw her do before. Had she not done so, we should have run on the beach at Cape Breton. This is a large island, separated from Nova Scotia by the straits of Canseau. It is about 100 miles in length, and from 30 to 80 in breadth, and is divided into two nearly equal portions by an arm of the sea, called Bras. de. or. The fog was so dense that it was impossible to see more than one-fourth of a mile. Had not the high cliffs towered above the fog, which enabled those on the lookout to see them, we should inevitably have been wrecked in this awful place. After the ship was headed off shore, the line was cast and we found only four fathoms water. Our ship was drawing 18 feet, so that the heaving of the sea caused her to come within a few inches of the bottom.For a few moments the greatest fear was depicted on every countenance, but so accustomed are the mariners to danger, that perils past cause no forebodings. They being soon forgotten, they rush on to new dangers.Considerable difficulty arose about the regular allowance of spirits, which was three glasses per day. But the sailors now swore they would not work, unless they might be allowed to have four. So desperate were they grown that one of them struck the mate. I was standing near, and sprang and dealt the fellow a blow under the ear, which sent him headlong upon the deck, where he lay several minutes. On getting up, he asked me why I struck him. I told him, that blow was the promptings of pure love; to which he replied, "if that is the way you love, I want no more of it." He then went forward about his business, with his jaw so bruised that it was several days before he could eat his regular allowance.After we came to anchor at the ballast ground, off Delhouse, after a passage of thirty days, and were discharging our cargo, consisting of oakum, wheat, rum, tobacco, bale goods, iron and nails, which was carried on shore on lighters, all of the seamen became intoxicated to such a degree as to be utterly unable to perform duty. When it was ascertained that they stole the liquor from the ship and took it on shore, they all went below and refused to do duty unless the captain would sign a paper freeing them from embezzlement, and continuing their wages to them. This they knew he would readily do, as the cold weather was coming on, which made him extremely anxious to get away, lest he should be caught in the ice, and be under the necessityof remaining during the winter, which he would have been obliged to do, had they left, for hands could not be procured to do the work. After the paper was signed they went to their duty.When the ballast was discharged, we hauled the ship to her berth and commenced taking in lumber. One night the raft of timber, (composed of logs about 75 in number) broke loose from the chain to which it was fastened. The mate, hearing the noise, called to me, as I had charge of it, saying, "the raft has broken adrift." I sprang from my berth and called the men to assist me, but called in vain. No one, save an old Frenchman, would venture upon the raft to assist me. I had nothing on but the clothes I slept in, (I usually slept in cold weather with my drawers and stockings on,) save my cap. We found the logs getting loose from each other, as well as from the ship. The wind blew from the northwest very hard, blowing the water all over us.Thus we worked with our clothes stiff with ice for nearly three hours. After we had secured the timbers, we went on deck. I took a stick and beat the ice from my drawers, shifted myself throughout, drank nearly a half pint of hot sling, and went to my berth.The next day I was very sore and stiff; the night following I experienced some pain in my side, got up, and walked the deck; vomited several times. I grew gradually worse until I could not breathe without a sort of catch or twitching, which was extremely painful. When I lay down, I could not rise again without assistance.When morning came a physician came on board andbled me, which afforded great relief. He came again in the afternoon of the same day, and learning that the captain was going to sail soon, he told him if he carried me to sea, it would be the death of me, as I was most severely attacked with pleurisy, and must have medical aid immediately.I was taken on shore to a house, where I remained seven days, seeing my sick nurse only four times, he leaving me some soup.The vessel left the harbor the next day after I went on shore, being driven out by the ice, with the loss of an anchor and part of the cable.One day the old Frenchman who assisted me on the raft, came to see me. I told him how I had been neglected, and shaking his head, he said it was too bad, and that I should not stay there, and then left the room. After an hour or two he returned with a horse and sleigh, assisted me into it and drove a distance of five miles, to the house of a French lady, where I remained six weeks.This kind lady, although an entire stranger, took a mother's care of me, at the same time knowing not that she should ever be compensated for it. Her many kindnesses I can never forget.I inquired of the doctor if there was any money in the treasury at Delhouse. He said there was, and seemed astonished that I had not made application for it. He then wrote a certificate, stating that I had been left, at the advice of a physician, by the barque Asia, of Liverpool, and was still under his care. This being presented to the treasury brought me a guinea per weekduring the time I should remain under the care of a physician.This fund is raised by reserving one shilling per month from the wages of all seamen that sail in British vessels. In every port of any considerable note a hospital is erected, in others a fund is deposited, to be expended in case of sickness of any of her majesty's subjects.At the expiration of six weeks, I had so far recovered as to be able to walk a short distance to the neighbors in pleasant weather. My appetite was getting to be very good, and in fact, I considered myself almost well.One day Mrs. Prosper, (my kind nurse's name) wishing to go to Delhouse, asked me to go with her. Wrapping myself up warmly, we started. On arriving at Delhouse, I went to the public house and remained while she was doing her business. On our return I got a little chilly. This with the fatigue of the ride (which proved too much for me) quite overcame me, and obliged me to take to bed again. I called for the doctor. A boy was sent for him, but returned, saying, that the doctor was also confined to his bed. I almost gave up in despair. There I was with a second and more severe attack of pleurisy, without medical aid. Mrs. Prosper aided by her sister (who with me were the only members of the family) did all in their power to assist me. The pain I experienced was almost beyond endurance. I found the roots of my finger nails were purple, the blood having settled there. The veins on my arms and hands were full almost to bursting. I called Mrs. Prosper, who, when she saw me, said to her sister, "he willnot live long." This I understood, although spoken in French, and it came to my ears like thunder. Thus to die, away from my childhood's home, with none save the friends of an hour to soothe me, in my last moments.Then, as in every other time of danger, did I regret the step I had taken in leaving home, and resolved, that should my life be again spared, I would hasten to the home from which I had been absent nearly nine years, (to which I had pledged myself I wouldneverreturn) and forget the petty occurrence that forced me from those to whom I was bound by the nearest and dearest ties. I called for a small knife which was in my vest pocket, resolved to make a desperate effort to save myself from the death which seemed so near. After being raised up in bed, I bled myself in the left arm, and then taking the knife in my left hand opened a vein in my right arm. Such was the pressure of blood that it flew all over the room. The women seeing what I had done, left the house screeching at the top of their voices. I lay literally weltering in my own blood. The blood left my finger nails, the pains ceased, and I was perfectly easy, still conscious that my end was near.To fully describe my situation, my pen is inadequate, and I must leave the reader to imagine for himself my situation, forsaken as I was by every person from whom assistance could be had, and bleeding profusely, with no means to check it.So much was I reduced, that I was about falling into a sleep from which I never should have awoke. At this moment an old Scotchman (a quaker) who had occasionally visited me, aroused by the cries of the women,came into the room and asked what was the matter. I was too feeble to answer, but cast my eyes about the room, signifying look for yourself. He left the room, but soon returned with some pebbles which he took from a spring near the house, and bound them on my arms, thus checking the blood. He then went in search of Mrs. Prosper, whom he reprimanded for leaving me. (By the way she supposed me attempting suicide.)I was removed on a sheet, and the bed which was wet through with blood was changed, and I was laid again upon it. There I remained nine days motionless and speechless and almost senseless and lifeless. The third day the doctor had so far recovered as to visit me. On hearing the situation I was in, he said the bleeding was the only thing that would have saved me. He told Mrs. Prosper that it was very doubtful about my getting up again.Leaving some medicine, he left the house. Instead of giving me the medicine he left, Mrs. Prosper procured a dozen bottles of the best Port wine, to which she added one pound of Peruvian bark. I drank a wine-glass full night and morning. Several times during the day my mouth was washed or moistened with a sponge saturated with the wine.One morning the sister of Mrs. Prosper came into the room, and with tears in her eyes, bade me an affectionate farewell, saying she was going away and should not see me again. Seeing her so affected at my situation, I could not refrain from shedding tears also. Seeing me shed tears, she considered it ominous of my recovery.Each day I found I had additional strength, and withthe best care was, at the expiration of three weeks, enabled to sit up a few moments at a time.I was obliged to keep the doctor along, for the moment he left me my pay from government was stopped.Now for the first time since my sickness did I attempt to acquaint my friends with my situation. (I had written several times from Liverpool and other places, but received no answer.) To this I received no reply, and at the expiration of four weeks, wrote again. This also was unnoticed.I then made up my mind that the circle which once welcomed me as the only son and brother, had resolved to disown me. This, to a repentant wanderer, occasioned many an hour of sadness.I resolved that should I ever so far recover as to be able to find them, to cast myself upon them, begging them to receive back their son and brother, who had almost cursed the hour that separated him from them.The doctor visited me every day, and at each visit left an additional supply of medicine. This he continued till about the first of March; at the expiration of which time I found myself in possession of drugs enough for a wholesale Apothecary establishment, the doctor, meanwhile, supposing I had pursued his directions.I was at length left upon my own resources, for the doctor, pronouncing me free from his care, stopped my funds.One neighbor, building a schooner offered me the job of making the sails, which busied me until the 1st of April, when I went on board a schooner bound to Quebec.The capital of Canada and of British America, is situated on a bold promontory, at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. Charles, (or Little River,) about 350 miles from the sea. The basin or harbor of Quebec is sufficiently large to contain 75 or 100 sail of the line.Accidentally becoming acquainted with an officer of the 15th Reg. of H. M. troops, then stationed there, I was enabled to visit parts, which to most visitors would be inaccessible. Quebec, the strongest town in America, and the strongest in the world, except Gibraltar, is built on a rock, which is partly of marble, and partly of slate, and is divided into Upper and Lower Towns.At the time it was founded, 1608, it is said the tide washed the rock; since that time the river has sunk away so far as to leave a large spot of dry ground on which stands the Lower Town. The houses of both towns are of stone, and well built. The fortifications are extensive but irregular. The natural situation of the town renders its defence easy; the lofty, perpendicular rocks, on the southeast, constitute in themselves an insurmountable barrier. The river St. Charles, with its shallow water, and low flats of sand, and mud drained almost dry, by the ebbing of the tide, forms an obstacle difficult to be encountered in the erection of commanding works, or to the location of ships on the east and north; and even, should the water allow ships to come up, their guns could not injure in the least the works of the Upper Town, while they would subject themselves to great danger from the cannons and bombs of those elevated ramparts. The only accessible point is on the southwest from the plains of Abraham, where there is no barrier of rocks, no river, ravine, or marsh,or other natural impediments to an enemy's approach, which deficiency is supplied by walls and towers. The distance across from one river to the other is nearly a mile; the average diameter is three-fourths of a mile. A complete wall of hewn stone encircles the town, and is furnished with strong massy arches and gates, and with deep ditches. The walls vary much in height as well as in thickness; everywhere however, they are high enough to render escalade very difficult, and a breach almost hopeless. In the strongest part, next the plains, they are about fifty feet high, and about an equal thickness; even the lofty precipice of naked rock is surmounted with stone walls and cannon, and the highest points are covered with towers and distinct batteries; and generally the curtains of the walls are looped for musketry; and projecting bastions present their artillery to the assailants, raking the ditches immediately adjacent to the inner walls. This inner wall, as I have already remarked, is about fifty feet thick. Besides this, there is another wall and ditch, which both must be scaled before the inner or main wall can be approached. A party would be most dreadfully exposed while mounting this exterior wall. The avenue to the gate St. Louis, which opens to the plains, is bounded on both sides by high walls, which make several turns in zigzag, and at every turn cannon point directly to the approacher. In every possible direction, where the walls can be approached, large guns are ready to meet the assailants. The highest point of the rock is called Cape Diamond, and upon it is erected the famous citadel of Quebec. This is not, as one might suppose, a building or castle covered with a roof. It isopen, and differs only from the rest of the works by being more elevated, and therefore more commanding.The highest part of the citadel is Brock's Battery, which is mounted with cannon pointed towards the plains. Within the walls are numerous magazines and stores of provisions of sufficient quantity to supply the town for a term of years. Piles of cannon balls every where meet the eye. Beyond the walls, on the plains, are the four martello Towers. They are solidly constructed of stone, about forty feet high, and about the same diameter at the base. These are mounted with guns pointing towards the plains, and effectually commanding it. The principal object of these is to prevent the enemy from obtaining possession of the high ground of the plains. The guns on these towers can only be made to bear one way towards the plains, so as to prevent, as in all other parts, the enemy, should they obtain possession of them, or any one part, from using their own arms against them. The side of the towers, towards the town, can be easily battered by the guns upon the walls. So, should an enemy get possession of the towers, they could be easily thrown from them.The city was founded by the French in 1608. In 1629, the English reduced it with all Canada; but it was restored to the French in 1632. In 1711 it was again besieged by the English, but without success. It was again, in 1759, attacked and conquered, after a battle memorable for the death of Gen. Wolfe, who fell in the moment of victory. As he was expiring in the arms of his soldiers he heard the cry of "they fly." He raised his drooping head, and inquired "Who fly?" being answered "the French," he resigned himselfback into the arms of a lieutenant, exclaiming, with his last breath, "then I die in peace." By the peace of 1763 this was confirmed to the English. In 1775, the Americans attacked it under Gen. Montgomery, who was slain, and his army repulsed with great loss. Great improvements have been made within a few years, and are still making, which render it so strong in its defences, that any attempt with any force whatever to take it, would prove a fruitless undertaking.The time allotted me (eight days) for staying at this place, was soon passed, giving me but little opportunity to examine minutely the many objects of wonder and curiosity.

CHAPTER XII.Sail for the North West Coast. Am required to sign the ship's articles. Trouble with officers. Anchor at New Archangel. Dogs trained to the harness. Leave the ship. Fall in with an Indian hunting party. Their manners and customs. Humanity of an Indian. Return to St. Lucas. Goes over land to St. Josephs. Lives with a Catholic priest. Narrow escape. Arrive at San Blass. Ship for Buenos Ayres. Fearful passage of the straits of Magellan in a storm. Description of Buenos Ayres.I was left upon a miserable shore among the Spaniards with whom I could hold no conversation whatever. Their proverbial hospitality was extended to me during the few days I was to remain there.The brig Congress, Capt. Strong, of Valparaiso, bound for the N. W. Coast, coming to anchor there, I shipped myself on board, for eighteen dollars per month.Watering the ship we proceeded to Sir F. Drake's bay, where we attempted to take some Sea Elephants, but did not succeed. Here we remained only a few days.Again we weighed anchor and stood to sea before a fine breeze. Spreading our studding-sails to a strong south wind we glided swiftly on.When out to sea all hands were called and the ship's articles read, and those who had not signed them, were requested to do so at that time.The articles forbid our trading with any person onshore, under the penalty of forfeiting our wages. Turning around, I said "Well, boys! here we are, under martial laws, but I don't see the pendant flying."The captain flew into a perfect rage, and came up to me asking, "What did you say,sir?" I laughingly said, "I have no handle to my name yet." At this he was still more enraged than before, and told me to stop my sauce, at the same time called upon Mr. Williams, the mate, to put me in irons.I told them they had better be passed by, for there would most certainly difficulty attend it, for I knew the crew would not suffer it to be done.At this instant the steward appeared with a pair of pistols, which he laid on the companion.Old Jack, as he was called, a rough old fellow, being then at the wheel, seeing them, came forward and threw them overboard, saying he should like to be a participator in the affair, and bid the master be quiet for he was there himself.Strong seeing there was no alternative, let the matter drop, and all things went on harmoniously till we arrived at Nootka Sound.One morning, being released from the wheel which I had held for six hours, I was told there was no breakfast for me. Taking the kid (a small wooden dish which our meat, potatoes, &c., are put in) under my arm, I walked up to the captain, and said, "I would thank him for some meat for breakfast." He replied, "You have had meat enough, if not, eat the kid.""Well, sir," said I, "you shall have the first taste and see how you like it," at the same time giving him a hearty slap in the face with it, knocking him over,when I asked him if it was seasoned too high or not. The mate caught me by the neck, saying, "you mutinous rascal, do you mean to take the ship?" and dealt me a blow. The kid, still with me, was submitted to his decision. I then ordered them to put me on shore, which, as they could not mould me into any shape they wished, they concluded to do at Nootka.When we came to anchor, I packed my clothes and prepared to start. When all was ready, I bid an adieu to captain, crew, and ship, and stepped into the boat, when most of the crew came forward with their things also packed, declaring their intention of leaving if I did. The captain seeing the dilemma he would be in should such be the case, recalled me, offering me kind treatment and every privilege I could in reason expect.I again went upon duty. Still I could see the captain and mate had not entirely lost the taste of the kid. We went on shore. It being the last of October, the weather was cold indeed. Snow was six or eight inches deep. Bought furs, hides, tallow, &c. Here we remained five days.Weighing anchor again, we stood for New Archangel, a Russian settlement, where we came to anchor. A Russian man-of-war with two or three other vessels was lying there.The houses of the people are built of logs and made very warm and tight. The soldiers were busy drawing wood to the barracks on sledges with dogs. Ten or fifteen are harnessed to a sledge as the occasion may require, having a collar and a single trace running over the back. They are not tied together, but draw independent of each other, each having a trace by himself,the most docile one having the longest trace, and is the leader.The dog that is struck, generally the hind one, draws back and springs upon the next one, and he upon the next, and so a blow given to one, seldom fails to produce a general snarling among them.Ten dogs thus harnessed will draw half a cord of wood at a time, at the rate of six miles per hour.Knowing the treatment I should receive when I arrived at Valparaiso for striking the captain and mate with the kid, I was induced to leave the ship and try a life with the natives, and persuaded one shipmate to join me. Accordingly, before the ship was to depart, we went ashore with the captain, taking what clothes we could possibly wear without detection. As we made the shore, the captain stepped out, saying he should be back in a few moments, and bid us not leave the boat at all. Soon as he was out of sight we took to our heels, and made for the woods, leaving him to officiate in the several capacities of captain, oarsman, and boat-keeper.On we traveled until near night, when we heard the sound of some one chopping wood. Guided by the sound, we followed on, hoping to find some human habitation. The sound dying away, we heard a low humming or singing, and on coming upon a little hill, we saw a large fire, which we at once recognized as the camp ground of an Indian hunting party, and we resolved to go to them, being almost frozen.As we came near them the dogs with loud barking aroused the Indians, who came out with their guns. We hurried on, fearing they might fire upon us. Thedogs gave way and the Indians came forward to meet us a few rods from the camp.We shook hands with one and all as a token of friendship. Soon as they understood our cold and hungry situation, with the spirit of benevolence which is so justly applied to them, they set about rendering us as comfortable as possible, giving us to eat of their humble fare, after which we were nicely wrapped in skins for the night, when we slept very finely indeed.Soon as daylight appeared a party was despatched for game for breakfast. Returning they were richly loaded with one deer, squirrels, rabbits, and other small game, in great abundance, which was given to the females, whose duty it is to prepare and cook it. We made a fine breakfast, after which they made preparations to proceed on their journey, which lay to the northward. As we wished to go to the southward we were obliged to part. Again we took one and all by the hand in token of gratitude for kindnesses shown us.The clothing of the males consists of a coat of fur which extends below the knees. Below this they wear a leggin of fine fur neatly wrought with shells of various kinds and colors. Over the shoulders is thrown loosely a blanket or cloak, also made of fur. The head is covered with feathers wrought into a cap-like form. Their arms are a hatchet, knife and gun. Their habitation, the wide world, having no place whatever they call home, pitching their tents of skins where night overtakes them.The dress of the females differs from that of the males somewhat. The cloak or mantle is made to cover the whole body, and large enough to allow the mother tocarry the child upon her back, its legs resting across its mother's hips and its head above the mantle. The mother carries her child upon her back until it is three or four years old, when, if a boy, the father trains him to hunt; if a girl, she is taught to dress the food and cure the skins.Near the close of day we fell in with another Indian who was hunting alone, with two dogs. Soon as we came in sight the dogs started to come for us, and had not the hunter held them till we came up, would have done so. The moment he shook hands with us they seemed to understand we were friends, and would play around us like kittens. He asked in broken English, "where go?" We told him to New Archangel. Placing his hand upon his breast said, "me go," meaning he would accompany us.The dogs coming upon track of some animal, sprang off and were soon lost from sight. The hunter hearing their bark, bent his ear to the ground to catch the sound and determine the distance, and sprang away. Soon we heard the sharp report of his rifle, at the same time he gave a loud whoop as a signal to us. We followed on and found him with a deer nearly dressed, the dogs lying by his side, waiting their portion. Folding up the skin, he quartered him and cut a portion up for the dogs. Going to the side of a high ledge, he built a fire and roasted one quarter, which we nearly devoured. Taking the remainder on our shoulders we followed the Indian. The moon shining very brightly added much to the pleasantness of the scene. Gaining an eminence our friend gave a loud whoop which was answered by some one in the distance. Smilingly he said, "man—man,"and renewed his pace. Soon we came to a large fire, around which were seated a number of Indians, who arose as we came up and extended the hand, welcoming us to their camp.After again partaking of roasted venison we were shown to our bed, which was simply a skin warm from the back of a deer, spread upon the snow, having another thrown over us. The fire is kept burning during the night. With the first light of morning we were called to breakfast, which was ready, the person who watched the fire having cooked it, which consisted again of roasted venison.This being over we bade adieu to all except the one with whom we went to the camp, and started for New Archangel, at which place we arrived before night; found the vessel gone. We then shook hands with the Indian in token of gratitude for the assistance he had afforded us, when with tears in his eyes he said, "me love do good."Often have I read, when a boy, of the kindness of the North American Indian to the weary, wandering white man, even while hostilities were raging between them; and at the very time we were shown to the paths of civilization, our American Congress were legislating on the best means for their utter annihilation, calling to their aid the Cubian bloodhounds.Here we found a man, formerly of New York, who had been in the Russian service twenty years, and was at that time purser or clerk of the ship, and was then bound to Mazatlan, in Mexico. Through him we obtained an opportunity of working our passage to that place.With light hearts we left the N. W. Coast for a more genial clime. On arriving at St. Lucas I thought I would leave the ship, as I had been previously somewhat acquainted there, while my shipmate went on to Mazatlan.As was my happy lot I fell in with the same persons I met with in my other visit, who seemed delighted at my return. I remained with them a few days, when it was proposed that I should accompany them to St. Josephs, about seventy miles, to attend Christmas, to which I readily assented, caring not whither I went. At about three o'clock in the afternoon we started, seven of us, all mounted on asses, following one after the other. Coming to a large field, we turned our asses loose that they might refresh themselves, while we cooked a hasty supper. Again we mounted and were under way, having then about fifty miles to go. They being anxious to reach St. Josephs that night rode very fast. About twelve they suddenly stopped, dismounted and ordered me to do the same. Standing a few moments, the asses knelt and commenced a tremendous braying. The Spaniards kneeling by their sides, went through a sort of prayer. This I suppose was in commemoration of the day. Why the asses should thus kneel was a great mystery to me. I could not believe it to be intuitive, yet I did not see any sign by which the wish of the Spaniard was made known, and to this day my mind is not satisfied about the matter.We reached St. Josephs about sunrise, rode up to the Chapel, before which the Spaniards crossed themselves many times, then to the dwelling of the Padre or Priest, where the like crossing was performed. The asses werethen put out in a large field, where were nearly three hundred. All persons coming thither for the observance of Christmas were allowed to place them there.About noon an interpreter came with one of the Spaniards, and asked me if I would take charge of the priest's horses and do his out-of-door work. This I was willing to do, and immediately went upon the duties. Things passed along finely for a few weeks, when I became acquainted with an American pedler, through whom I ignorantly became embroiled with the priest and came near losing my head in consequence. I knew nothing of the affair until the officers were actually on the track for me, when I fled with my best abilities for the harbor, which was eight miles from St. Josephs, over hills and through swamps, swimming one or two little streams.On reaching the water I plunged in and swam for a sloop which was laying out a little. The mate threw me a rope by which I crawled up the ship's side. I told him my story, at which he seemed much pleased. He said if the captain was aboard, I should be sent on shore, but as it was he would try to save me. He took me below and secreted me, where the captain would know nothing of it, leaving me provision to last till they would be out to sea, which would probably be on the return of the captain.The sloop was owned by the captain, who was an Irishman, and all of the crew were either French or Spanish, except the mate, who was an Englishman.The captain came, hoisted anchor, and stood out to sea. When the bustle attendant upon leaving the harbor was over, the captain related the story as he heardit at St. Josephs, which at that time had gained great publicity there. It was his opinion I should lose my head, for he was sure I should be taken. The mate hearing what the captain had to say respecting it, called me from my hiding place, to tell my own story. The captain was greatly astonished, and for a moment hesitated whether he should not put back with me; and I think perhaps he might have done so, had not the mate strongly remonstrated with him.It was long a question with them how they should work the affair with the Alcalda (or governor) of San Blass, who would most certainly come aboard, either in person or by his vigilant officers, for the ship's papers, &c. Upon my repeatedly promising to keep my own counsel he agreed to write me a passport and forge the Alcalda's name of St. Josephs.The passport was written and signed, and on handing it to me, he said, "Jack, you no lie." Again I told him I would not expose him, even on the pain of death. The third day we reached San Blass. We were no sooner in the harbor than the officer was aboard for the papers. Seeing me, he asked in Spanish who I was, and was informed I was from St. Josephs. He asked for my passport, which after examining, he returned to me. Leaving the sloop I went on shore and joined a Mexican man-of-war-brig, which was laying there protecting the harbor. Mexico and Columbia were then in a state of hostility towards each other.We cruised around the gulf a few days, and again stood for San Blass; running upon a reef we bilged our vessel. Thinking I had served long enough in theMexican service, I took my clothes, without saying a word to the officers, and went on shore.Finding the brig Romance, Capt. Johnson, lying there, bound for Buenos Ayres, laden with Indigo and cocoa, I shipped myself on board. The cocoa, with which we were laden, is a small nut, of the size of a large chestnut, from which chocolate is made; it grows in pods like peas, and is cultivated like corn yearly.We spread our sails to a steady, strong north wind, as much as we could possibly stagger under. Stowed anchors, and made all things snug about deck. Sailed under Peruvian colors to avoid detection. As we came abreast Panama, the wind died away, and left us almost becalmed for a few hours, when it veered around to the northwest, suddenly, and freshened into a stiff breeze, which wafted us nearly to the Straits of Magellan, as quick, I think, as ever vessel sped before the wind. Here the wind, without seeming to cease for a moment, turned into the south and blew a perfect gale. We hove her to under close reefed main-top-sail, for five days, when we wore ship, and stood in shore, the wind still continuing in the south. The Captain concluded to try the Straits the next day, rather than risk doubling the Cape with such a wind.The Straits of Magellan lie in about 53° south latitude, and were discovered by Fernando Magellan, whose name they bear; they are about 350 miles long, and are at the Pacific entrance, 25 miles wide, and the eastern side about 20. In some parts they are not more than a league broad. The general form is that of a crescent, while the whole course is zigzag. The Pacific side is several feet the highest, causing a current sostrong as to bid defiance to its passage from the eastern side. The sides are lined with high and craggy rocks, rising almost perpendicularly. Over them the Magellan clouds, so called from their position, always are seen, and to a great distance, apprising the mariner of his proximity to the almost only place which he allows himself to fear,—Cape Horn.The next morning came with the wind still blowing from the south; we made preparations for entering the Straits as was proposed. The flaws of wind which struck the vessel with the strong current, hurried us on with the rapidity of lightning. We were obliged to stand by the halyards and braces constantly, night and day, so often were we called upon to tack ship, in consequence of the many crooked turnings in our course, and flaws of wind which struck us from all quarters, breaking over the high rocks, which lined the straits.The rocks which lined the shore were capped with snow and ice, which seemed ready to fall and crush us. Innumerable quantities of seals were seen lying along the shore. Shrimp and penguins also were seen in great numbers.As we neared the Atlantic side, the wind and the force of the current became less. This distance was performed in forty-five hours from the time we entered the western side; and during the time not a man of us left the deck, except in pursuance of some order.Getting a good offing, we shaped our course for Buenos Ayres, where we landed, six weeks after leaving San Blass. Discharging our cargo, we were allowed a little time on shore, which I readily improved in wandering about the city. The La Plata, on which BuenosAyres stands at a distance of 200 miles, is about 170 miles wide at its mouth, and can be navigated by large ships to a distance of 800 miles.The situation of the city is delightful. The houses are built of brick, with flat roofs, and of one story usually, though some are seen two stories high; a garden is usually attached.The public buildings are a Palace, Royal Chapel, a most magnificent Cathedral, and many Churches. The principal square faces the La Plata, and is indeed very spacious.There is no harbor at Buenos Ayres; and ships can only come within seven or eight miles of the town, where they discharge their cargoes into lighters, which take them ashore.The population is about 70,000, consisting of whites, Indians, and negroes. Slaves are quite numerous, and are treated much better than in any other place I ever visited. The old are particularly well attended to. The climate is indeed favorable to health. Violent winds are often-experienced, which raise clouds of dust, filling their houses completely, and almost entirely obscuring the sun.

Sail for the North West Coast. Am required to sign the ship's articles. Trouble with officers. Anchor at New Archangel. Dogs trained to the harness. Leave the ship. Fall in with an Indian hunting party. Their manners and customs. Humanity of an Indian. Return to St. Lucas. Goes over land to St. Josephs. Lives with a Catholic priest. Narrow escape. Arrive at San Blass. Ship for Buenos Ayres. Fearful passage of the straits of Magellan in a storm. Description of Buenos Ayres.

I was left upon a miserable shore among the Spaniards with whom I could hold no conversation whatever. Their proverbial hospitality was extended to me during the few days I was to remain there.

The brig Congress, Capt. Strong, of Valparaiso, bound for the N. W. Coast, coming to anchor there, I shipped myself on board, for eighteen dollars per month.

Watering the ship we proceeded to Sir F. Drake's bay, where we attempted to take some Sea Elephants, but did not succeed. Here we remained only a few days.

Again we weighed anchor and stood to sea before a fine breeze. Spreading our studding-sails to a strong south wind we glided swiftly on.

When out to sea all hands were called and the ship's articles read, and those who had not signed them, were requested to do so at that time.

The articles forbid our trading with any person onshore, under the penalty of forfeiting our wages. Turning around, I said "Well, boys! here we are, under martial laws, but I don't see the pendant flying."

The captain flew into a perfect rage, and came up to me asking, "What did you say,sir?" I laughingly said, "I have no handle to my name yet." At this he was still more enraged than before, and told me to stop my sauce, at the same time called upon Mr. Williams, the mate, to put me in irons.

I told them they had better be passed by, for there would most certainly difficulty attend it, for I knew the crew would not suffer it to be done.

At this instant the steward appeared with a pair of pistols, which he laid on the companion.

Old Jack, as he was called, a rough old fellow, being then at the wheel, seeing them, came forward and threw them overboard, saying he should like to be a participator in the affair, and bid the master be quiet for he was there himself.

Strong seeing there was no alternative, let the matter drop, and all things went on harmoniously till we arrived at Nootka Sound.

One morning, being released from the wheel which I had held for six hours, I was told there was no breakfast for me. Taking the kid (a small wooden dish which our meat, potatoes, &c., are put in) under my arm, I walked up to the captain, and said, "I would thank him for some meat for breakfast." He replied, "You have had meat enough, if not, eat the kid."

"Well, sir," said I, "you shall have the first taste and see how you like it," at the same time giving him a hearty slap in the face with it, knocking him over,when I asked him if it was seasoned too high or not. The mate caught me by the neck, saying, "you mutinous rascal, do you mean to take the ship?" and dealt me a blow. The kid, still with me, was submitted to his decision. I then ordered them to put me on shore, which, as they could not mould me into any shape they wished, they concluded to do at Nootka.

When we came to anchor, I packed my clothes and prepared to start. When all was ready, I bid an adieu to captain, crew, and ship, and stepped into the boat, when most of the crew came forward with their things also packed, declaring their intention of leaving if I did. The captain seeing the dilemma he would be in should such be the case, recalled me, offering me kind treatment and every privilege I could in reason expect.

I again went upon duty. Still I could see the captain and mate had not entirely lost the taste of the kid. We went on shore. It being the last of October, the weather was cold indeed. Snow was six or eight inches deep. Bought furs, hides, tallow, &c. Here we remained five days.

Weighing anchor again, we stood for New Archangel, a Russian settlement, where we came to anchor. A Russian man-of-war with two or three other vessels was lying there.

The houses of the people are built of logs and made very warm and tight. The soldiers were busy drawing wood to the barracks on sledges with dogs. Ten or fifteen are harnessed to a sledge as the occasion may require, having a collar and a single trace running over the back. They are not tied together, but draw independent of each other, each having a trace by himself,the most docile one having the longest trace, and is the leader.

The dog that is struck, generally the hind one, draws back and springs upon the next one, and he upon the next, and so a blow given to one, seldom fails to produce a general snarling among them.

Ten dogs thus harnessed will draw half a cord of wood at a time, at the rate of six miles per hour.

Knowing the treatment I should receive when I arrived at Valparaiso for striking the captain and mate with the kid, I was induced to leave the ship and try a life with the natives, and persuaded one shipmate to join me. Accordingly, before the ship was to depart, we went ashore with the captain, taking what clothes we could possibly wear without detection. As we made the shore, the captain stepped out, saying he should be back in a few moments, and bid us not leave the boat at all. Soon as he was out of sight we took to our heels, and made for the woods, leaving him to officiate in the several capacities of captain, oarsman, and boat-keeper.

On we traveled until near night, when we heard the sound of some one chopping wood. Guided by the sound, we followed on, hoping to find some human habitation. The sound dying away, we heard a low humming or singing, and on coming upon a little hill, we saw a large fire, which we at once recognized as the camp ground of an Indian hunting party, and we resolved to go to them, being almost frozen.

As we came near them the dogs with loud barking aroused the Indians, who came out with their guns. We hurried on, fearing they might fire upon us. Thedogs gave way and the Indians came forward to meet us a few rods from the camp.

We shook hands with one and all as a token of friendship. Soon as they understood our cold and hungry situation, with the spirit of benevolence which is so justly applied to them, they set about rendering us as comfortable as possible, giving us to eat of their humble fare, after which we were nicely wrapped in skins for the night, when we slept very finely indeed.

Soon as daylight appeared a party was despatched for game for breakfast. Returning they were richly loaded with one deer, squirrels, rabbits, and other small game, in great abundance, which was given to the females, whose duty it is to prepare and cook it. We made a fine breakfast, after which they made preparations to proceed on their journey, which lay to the northward. As we wished to go to the southward we were obliged to part. Again we took one and all by the hand in token of gratitude for kindnesses shown us.

The clothing of the males consists of a coat of fur which extends below the knees. Below this they wear a leggin of fine fur neatly wrought with shells of various kinds and colors. Over the shoulders is thrown loosely a blanket or cloak, also made of fur. The head is covered with feathers wrought into a cap-like form. Their arms are a hatchet, knife and gun. Their habitation, the wide world, having no place whatever they call home, pitching their tents of skins where night overtakes them.

The dress of the females differs from that of the males somewhat. The cloak or mantle is made to cover the whole body, and large enough to allow the mother tocarry the child upon her back, its legs resting across its mother's hips and its head above the mantle. The mother carries her child upon her back until it is three or four years old, when, if a boy, the father trains him to hunt; if a girl, she is taught to dress the food and cure the skins.

Near the close of day we fell in with another Indian who was hunting alone, with two dogs. Soon as we came in sight the dogs started to come for us, and had not the hunter held them till we came up, would have done so. The moment he shook hands with us they seemed to understand we were friends, and would play around us like kittens. He asked in broken English, "where go?" We told him to New Archangel. Placing his hand upon his breast said, "me go," meaning he would accompany us.

The dogs coming upon track of some animal, sprang off and were soon lost from sight. The hunter hearing their bark, bent his ear to the ground to catch the sound and determine the distance, and sprang away. Soon we heard the sharp report of his rifle, at the same time he gave a loud whoop as a signal to us. We followed on and found him with a deer nearly dressed, the dogs lying by his side, waiting their portion. Folding up the skin, he quartered him and cut a portion up for the dogs. Going to the side of a high ledge, he built a fire and roasted one quarter, which we nearly devoured. Taking the remainder on our shoulders we followed the Indian. The moon shining very brightly added much to the pleasantness of the scene. Gaining an eminence our friend gave a loud whoop which was answered by some one in the distance. Smilingly he said, "man—man,"and renewed his pace. Soon we came to a large fire, around which were seated a number of Indians, who arose as we came up and extended the hand, welcoming us to their camp.

After again partaking of roasted venison we were shown to our bed, which was simply a skin warm from the back of a deer, spread upon the snow, having another thrown over us. The fire is kept burning during the night. With the first light of morning we were called to breakfast, which was ready, the person who watched the fire having cooked it, which consisted again of roasted venison.

This being over we bade adieu to all except the one with whom we went to the camp, and started for New Archangel, at which place we arrived before night; found the vessel gone. We then shook hands with the Indian in token of gratitude for the assistance he had afforded us, when with tears in his eyes he said, "me love do good."

Often have I read, when a boy, of the kindness of the North American Indian to the weary, wandering white man, even while hostilities were raging between them; and at the very time we were shown to the paths of civilization, our American Congress were legislating on the best means for their utter annihilation, calling to their aid the Cubian bloodhounds.

Here we found a man, formerly of New York, who had been in the Russian service twenty years, and was at that time purser or clerk of the ship, and was then bound to Mazatlan, in Mexico. Through him we obtained an opportunity of working our passage to that place.

With light hearts we left the N. W. Coast for a more genial clime. On arriving at St. Lucas I thought I would leave the ship, as I had been previously somewhat acquainted there, while my shipmate went on to Mazatlan.

As was my happy lot I fell in with the same persons I met with in my other visit, who seemed delighted at my return. I remained with them a few days, when it was proposed that I should accompany them to St. Josephs, about seventy miles, to attend Christmas, to which I readily assented, caring not whither I went. At about three o'clock in the afternoon we started, seven of us, all mounted on asses, following one after the other. Coming to a large field, we turned our asses loose that they might refresh themselves, while we cooked a hasty supper. Again we mounted and were under way, having then about fifty miles to go. They being anxious to reach St. Josephs that night rode very fast. About twelve they suddenly stopped, dismounted and ordered me to do the same. Standing a few moments, the asses knelt and commenced a tremendous braying. The Spaniards kneeling by their sides, went through a sort of prayer. This I suppose was in commemoration of the day. Why the asses should thus kneel was a great mystery to me. I could not believe it to be intuitive, yet I did not see any sign by which the wish of the Spaniard was made known, and to this day my mind is not satisfied about the matter.

We reached St. Josephs about sunrise, rode up to the Chapel, before which the Spaniards crossed themselves many times, then to the dwelling of the Padre or Priest, where the like crossing was performed. The asses werethen put out in a large field, where were nearly three hundred. All persons coming thither for the observance of Christmas were allowed to place them there.

About noon an interpreter came with one of the Spaniards, and asked me if I would take charge of the priest's horses and do his out-of-door work. This I was willing to do, and immediately went upon the duties. Things passed along finely for a few weeks, when I became acquainted with an American pedler, through whom I ignorantly became embroiled with the priest and came near losing my head in consequence. I knew nothing of the affair until the officers were actually on the track for me, when I fled with my best abilities for the harbor, which was eight miles from St. Josephs, over hills and through swamps, swimming one or two little streams.

On reaching the water I plunged in and swam for a sloop which was laying out a little. The mate threw me a rope by which I crawled up the ship's side. I told him my story, at which he seemed much pleased. He said if the captain was aboard, I should be sent on shore, but as it was he would try to save me. He took me below and secreted me, where the captain would know nothing of it, leaving me provision to last till they would be out to sea, which would probably be on the return of the captain.

The sloop was owned by the captain, who was an Irishman, and all of the crew were either French or Spanish, except the mate, who was an Englishman.

The captain came, hoisted anchor, and stood out to sea. When the bustle attendant upon leaving the harbor was over, the captain related the story as he heardit at St. Josephs, which at that time had gained great publicity there. It was his opinion I should lose my head, for he was sure I should be taken. The mate hearing what the captain had to say respecting it, called me from my hiding place, to tell my own story. The captain was greatly astonished, and for a moment hesitated whether he should not put back with me; and I think perhaps he might have done so, had not the mate strongly remonstrated with him.

It was long a question with them how they should work the affair with the Alcalda (or governor) of San Blass, who would most certainly come aboard, either in person or by his vigilant officers, for the ship's papers, &c. Upon my repeatedly promising to keep my own counsel he agreed to write me a passport and forge the Alcalda's name of St. Josephs.

The passport was written and signed, and on handing it to me, he said, "Jack, you no lie." Again I told him I would not expose him, even on the pain of death. The third day we reached San Blass. We were no sooner in the harbor than the officer was aboard for the papers. Seeing me, he asked in Spanish who I was, and was informed I was from St. Josephs. He asked for my passport, which after examining, he returned to me. Leaving the sloop I went on shore and joined a Mexican man-of-war-brig, which was laying there protecting the harbor. Mexico and Columbia were then in a state of hostility towards each other.

We cruised around the gulf a few days, and again stood for San Blass; running upon a reef we bilged our vessel. Thinking I had served long enough in theMexican service, I took my clothes, without saying a word to the officers, and went on shore.

Finding the brig Romance, Capt. Johnson, lying there, bound for Buenos Ayres, laden with Indigo and cocoa, I shipped myself on board. The cocoa, with which we were laden, is a small nut, of the size of a large chestnut, from which chocolate is made; it grows in pods like peas, and is cultivated like corn yearly.

We spread our sails to a steady, strong north wind, as much as we could possibly stagger under. Stowed anchors, and made all things snug about deck. Sailed under Peruvian colors to avoid detection. As we came abreast Panama, the wind died away, and left us almost becalmed for a few hours, when it veered around to the northwest, suddenly, and freshened into a stiff breeze, which wafted us nearly to the Straits of Magellan, as quick, I think, as ever vessel sped before the wind. Here the wind, without seeming to cease for a moment, turned into the south and blew a perfect gale. We hove her to under close reefed main-top-sail, for five days, when we wore ship, and stood in shore, the wind still continuing in the south. The Captain concluded to try the Straits the next day, rather than risk doubling the Cape with such a wind.

The Straits of Magellan lie in about 53° south latitude, and were discovered by Fernando Magellan, whose name they bear; they are about 350 miles long, and are at the Pacific entrance, 25 miles wide, and the eastern side about 20. In some parts they are not more than a league broad. The general form is that of a crescent, while the whole course is zigzag. The Pacific side is several feet the highest, causing a current sostrong as to bid defiance to its passage from the eastern side. The sides are lined with high and craggy rocks, rising almost perpendicularly. Over them the Magellan clouds, so called from their position, always are seen, and to a great distance, apprising the mariner of his proximity to the almost only place which he allows himself to fear,—Cape Horn.

The next morning came with the wind still blowing from the south; we made preparations for entering the Straits as was proposed. The flaws of wind which struck the vessel with the strong current, hurried us on with the rapidity of lightning. We were obliged to stand by the halyards and braces constantly, night and day, so often were we called upon to tack ship, in consequence of the many crooked turnings in our course, and flaws of wind which struck us from all quarters, breaking over the high rocks, which lined the straits.

The rocks which lined the shore were capped with snow and ice, which seemed ready to fall and crush us. Innumerable quantities of seals were seen lying along the shore. Shrimp and penguins also were seen in great numbers.

As we neared the Atlantic side, the wind and the force of the current became less. This distance was performed in forty-five hours from the time we entered the western side; and during the time not a man of us left the deck, except in pursuance of some order.

Getting a good offing, we shaped our course for Buenos Ayres, where we landed, six weeks after leaving San Blass. Discharging our cargo, we were allowed a little time on shore, which I readily improved in wandering about the city. The La Plata, on which BuenosAyres stands at a distance of 200 miles, is about 170 miles wide at its mouth, and can be navigated by large ships to a distance of 800 miles.

The situation of the city is delightful. The houses are built of brick, with flat roofs, and of one story usually, though some are seen two stories high; a garden is usually attached.

The public buildings are a Palace, Royal Chapel, a most magnificent Cathedral, and many Churches. The principal square faces the La Plata, and is indeed very spacious.

There is no harbor at Buenos Ayres; and ships can only come within seven or eight miles of the town, where they discharge their cargoes into lighters, which take them ashore.

The population is about 70,000, consisting of whites, Indians, and negroes. Slaves are quite numerous, and are treated much better than in any other place I ever visited. The old are particularly well attended to. The climate is indeed favorable to health. Violent winds are often-experienced, which raise clouds of dust, filling their houses completely, and almost entirely obscuring the sun.

CHAPTER XIII.Return to San Blass. Description of the Town. Strikes a Spaniard, and resists the Police. Is placed in the Stocks. Goes on board the Tammercee. The Captain is employed to take a quantity of Gold to England. Fight between the Officers. Anchor at Tehuantepec for Dye-Stuffs. Precaution used against Scorpions, Centipedes, &c. Arrival at Panama. Scenes on Shore. Arrive at Callao. Ride to Lima. Description of Lima. Arrival at Valparaiso. Again double the Cape on the wings of the wind. Arrival at Liverpool. Sketch of the City.Getting in a cargo of dry goods, we set sail for San Blass. Smoothly we glided down the La Plata, having a gentle west wind which lasted till we made the Falklands.Seemingly unwilling we should double the Cape with any degree of pleasantness, it veered round to the south, and freshening each moment, soon blew a hurricane which lasted thirty-six hours. When moderating, and at the same time shifting into the east, we braced full, and stood for the Cape; for eleven days the wind continued in the east, and gave us a fine passage around the Cape. We were accompanied on our way by a large Iceberg of the largest dimensions, which kept within half a mile of us for twenty-four hours.The wind again, in a very accommodating manner, turned in our favor, driving us before it with great velocity under close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail, for fourteen days, at which time we reached Valparaiso.Still favoring, though more lightly, we were enabled to reach San Blass in about the same time required for the outward bound voyage. Discharging our cargo we were paid off. I then went to the city of San Blass, which is five or six miles from the beach. As I remained there but a short time, I cannot be expected to give a full account of the city, which is situated on an eminence which rises an hundred or two feet gradually from the sea; and is enclosed by a huge wall, having only two gates or entrances into it. One of these is on the north side; the other, on the west side. A part of the wall which faces the sea, is built upon a ledge of rocks which rise almost perpendicular, and forms an impregnable barrier. The walls are heavily mounted with guns on the side towards the sea, and manned continually. The dwellings are mostly built of stone of ancient architecture; low and covered with tiles. The streets are narrow and dirty, though mostly paved with stone. Dissipation is carried in every thing to a great length. The inhabitants are, in a great degree, low and sensual. One day, while on shore, I traded with a Spaniard, with whom I had a few hasty words; his insolence I could not bear, and gave him a severe blow which felled him to the ground. Seeing the police on the alert I ran for the sea. Soon they overtook me. I gave the first one a blow, and threw him over a wall down a bank of a few feet. Finding more than I could easily handle, I surrendered. I was taken before the governor, who caused me to be placed in the stocks for twenty-four hours.I had my hands, feet, and neck, placed in the stocks, which was in the hot sun, upon the burning sand, duringthe day; I had to look continually up to the sun, and ere night was almost blind; my face badly swollen, and almost blistered. Swarms of mosquitoes and fleas visited me at night, each paying their respects, leaving an impression upon my feelings. Crowds of natives gathered around, offering me every insult they were capable of doing. When I was taken from the stocks I could hardly walk or stand, and it required several days for me to regain the use of my limbs to any comfortable degree.Soon as I was able I crawled down to the shore, and fell in with Captain Masters, of the ship Tammercee of Liverpool, whither he would sail in a few days. Knowing he was in want of hands, I offered myself for thirty-seven dollars per month: this he was unwilling to give. Meeting him again in a few days, he said he had seen my former captain, who gave me a good character, and a reputation as a seaman, therefore he would give me the desired wages.I went on board and was given the second mate's duty, which the ship carpenter had performed.At evening the captain selected six of us to follow him on shore. We went to a house where there was a quantity of gold coins, mostly doubloons. He ordered us to take as many as we could carry, and go for the ship. This was done twice, and daylight coming on, we were deterred from going again. This was the property of resident merchants, who wished to make a deposit in the Bank of England, and were obliged to resort to this expedient on account of the laws, which prohibited their removal. We received a present fromthe merchants of a doubloon each for our services, and as a sort of bribe to keep silence.The third day after I shipped on board we set sail. This was quite the latter part of May, 1838. Mr. Evans (mate) came on board in a state of intoxication, which was the cause of hard words between him and the captain, who was a person capable of the highest degree of excitement. The captain becoming enraged, seized a spyglass and hurled it at the mate, striking him on the head and brought him to the deck; collecting himself, he passed it back in the same way, but missed his aim. Exasperated to a still greater degree, the captain rushed to the cabin and brought forward a pair of pistols, intending to shoot the mate down. His wife being aboard, and seeing by his manner there was likely to be trouble, rushed up first and placed herself between him and the mate, bidding him fire if he chose. A moment sufficed to cool him down in a measure, and the matter was dropped by putting the mate off duty for ten days.We came to anchor at the Gulf of Tehuantepec, or the roadstead of Rosario, and moored with a swivel.—We sent down the top-gallant masts and yards, and got ready to take on a cargo at Nicaragua.The shore at this place as well as most others on the Mexican coast is almost inaccessible, from the high rolling surf, which at this time was altogether so for the boats. There are but few harbors in Mexico; consequently we anchored the long boat out about sixty fathoms from the beach, and erected a capstan on the shore; a block was fastened to the bow of the boat, through which a hawser was passed, which also went around the capstan on shore, thus forming a continuousline from the boat to the shore. Natives were employed to lash the wood, which is cut in sticks about four feet long, to one side of the hawser and pull upon the other, and thus convey it to the boat, where men were stationed to untie and load it into other boats, and then to the ship. This wood is very rough, and full of holes and crevices, into which scorpions, centipedes, and a small blue snake, of five or six inches in length, crawl. On removing or handling it, they run out and bite the first object that comes in their way or happens to touch them.The bite or sting of the scorpion is said to prove fatal many times in two hours; their bite in the spring and summer months are said, by Pike, to be much more suddenly fatal. He also says, in speaking of them as found in other portions of Mexico: "remove them three leagues and they become perfectly harmless and lose all their venomous qualities." As a preventive we took three bottles of spirits, (old rum) and put a scorpion in one, a centipede in another, reserving the third for the snake; they were put in alive and allowed to die in the spirits. These to be used by applying the spirits of the respective bottles to the wounds of the different species. Fortunately for us but one was bitten, which was cured by immediate application of the spirits.A disturbance arose to our quiet one day between the captain and one of the crew, which resulted in throwing the sailor on shore, one hundred miles nearly from a habitation of any kind, except temporary ones erected by the natives who came from Acapulco, 100 miles distant, to cut and deliver the wood to ships. Seeing a shipmate thus turned off, without clothes except thoseworn off, with no particular means of subsistence, was more than I could endure, and I resolved to assist him. The next morning I went to the long boat as usual, taking with me two shirts and a pound of tobacco rolled up as compactly as possible. Getting to the boat I jumped over and swam as far as I could, then caught hold of the hawser for the surf or swells to pass me; dropping into the smooth sea I exerted every nerve to reach the shore before the next sea; this I was unable to do. Soon the next swell was upon me, and by its impetus I was thrown high upon the sand insensible. The natives took me up and rubbed me for a long time before I could be brought to a state of consciousness, when they gave me some spirits to drink, and in a few hours I was enabled to walk out.At night the ship's boat was sent to take me off; the surf running so high rendered it impossible to do so, only by rowing above about five miles to a small cove. Going on board I met the captain at the gangway, who said:"Well, boy, how is that old pelt of yours? have you got it scorched any?""No, sir" said I; "I have had too much experience in that business, to have the sun effect me any more than it does an alligator!"Having finished our cargo we weighed anchor, double reefed our top-sails, set our course and stood off. Our vessel being a fast sailer, and the wind blowing a half gale from the west, soon brought us abreast of Panama. Being in want of ship stores, we put into the bay of the same name, and came to anchor. Sent a boat on shore and procured a supply of water, which was of the finestquality, and necessary stores, and were again ready for sea.The afternoon previous to sailing we were allowed on shore, when we fell in with a company of soldiers belonging to the fort. With them we drank several times. Finding at length I was growing quite stupid—an effect altogether different from what liquor usually produces on me, I was confident it had been drugged for some purpose. Seeing the sad dilemma into which we were hastening, I proposed to walk out and work it off if possible. But we were already within their clutches. They followed and easily prevailed upon us to visit the fort to "enjoy a view of it by lamplight." I was conscious they were imposing upon us, still I could not stop; their serpent-like charms were successfully thrown around me; to resist I could not. They led us in and about the fort, pointing out its particular points of combined beauty and strength. We thought no more of duties on ship-board, or of our situation, till a late hour at night, when the effects of the drugs were leaving us.In the morning the true nature of our situation found itself upon us. With apparent satisfaction we sent out for a bottle of spirits, which was soon brought to us. On looking around a little we found others decoyed and confined in a like manner; among them was a stout, seven-foot Irishman. We gave him a good supply of spirits, and then held up to his view the great wrong we as well as himself had sustained. Gradually the true Irish blood was seen to work in his bosom, as he reflected upon his situation and wrongs, until he became perfectly exasperated. Clenching his fists, he said:"An' sure we'll be after leaving this place, we will."He became violent in threatenings. The guard hearing a noise, came to learn the cause. Soon as the door was opened, the guard was seized and hurled by his arm, (now rendered doubly powerful by alcohol and anger,) half way across the yard. Others following closely up, were passed along also, till half a dozen were thus promiscuously piled up, scarce knowing how to find themselves. With a mighty effort we then rushed over those that stood outside the door, who in their dismay knew not what to do till so late that action would have been fruitless.We ran as fast as possible to the beach and seized a boat, and went to the ship. Telling the mate of the adventure, he immediately lowered a boat and sent for the captain, who was on shore; meanwhile he got the anchor up and was ready for sea.The captain coming aboard, we bid farewell to Panama, leaving our harbor fees unpaid.What became of the Irishman I never knew, as he took a different course from the rest of us after leaving the fort.Nothing of note occurred until we were off the coast of Peru and dropped our anchor at Callao, the seaport of Lima, the capital of Peru, which is situated seven miles from the shore. After the ship was well secured, a ride was proposed to Lima, in which several of us joined. We proceeded to a stable in which were a great number of horses, trained to the saddle alone. Each procured one by paying a dollar in advance, with which a ticket also was obtained for entrance into the city. Those horses were so well trained that they requiredno guidance whatever; by simply throwing the line upon the neck loosely, they set off into a fine gallop, which they held till they reached the city.On starting we received an urgent injunction to "look well to the saddle," they care but little about the horse. Arriving at the gates of the city, a sentry appeared who demanded our tickets, which, after examining, he handed back and allowed us to pass on. The horses setting off at full gallop soon brought us to another stable, which is connected with the one at which we obtained our horses. Here we dismounted, giving ourselves no farther trouble about them. We wandered around the city as long as we chose. When returning to the stable we found our horses refreshed, with no additional expense, and ready to take us back to Callao.The waters of the Rimac, on which Lima is situated, are clear and transparent. The city is four miles long, by two broad, and is surrounded by brick walls, which are heavily mounted with cannon.This city, next to Mexico, is the finest built by the Spaniards in the New World; its streets are straight and handsome; the houses are built only of one story, on account of earthquakes by which they are frequented. Lima was founded by Pizarro in 1534, and by him calledLos Reges, or the "City of the Kings." Like all other Spanish cities, Lima has a great square in the centre, where all the principal streets terminate. On this square the principal public buildings stand; such as the cathedral, the university, the treasury, the arsenal, and the town hall.The churches and convents are still beautiful, though robbed of vast wealth during the last revolution. Itis estimated that about one-fourth of the population are whites.Leaving Callao we had a fine breeze, set studding-sails alow and aloft. When abreast Valparaiso, the wind veered around into the south and blew a stiff breeze, which obliged us to lay off and on for a few days. The wind dying away, we put into the harbor of Valparaiso, which is the most singular one I ever entered. The water is of vast depth, being upwards of fifty fathoms within a short distance of the town. We spent some little time on shore, which we enjoyed very finely indeed; found the natives kind and hospitable. The men follow the European fashion of dress, while the females adhere strictly to that of Peru. Many of the common and lower classes wear the ponsha, which is simply a large cloth with a hole in it for the neck. In the use of the lasso they equal if not excel any other people, throwing it with the greatest precision. Children at an early age practice the lasso upon poultry and cats, which they throw with unerring aim.By the gradual change in the temperature of the atmosphere we were forcibly reminded of nearness to the Cape, which we were again to double. Finding the quantity of spirits on hand insufficient as we then thought for the occasion, we told the captain we would not double the Cape with so small a supply. Against this he remonstrated. We urged him to compliance.After spending a week at Valparaiso, we left the harbor and stood at sea with a fair wind from the west; thus we ran about thirty-six hours, when the wind hauled into the north."Dreary and hollow moans foretold a gale;Nor long the issue tarried; then the wind,Unprisoned, blew its trumpet loud and shrill;*    *    *    *    the rainCame down like music."The fore and main royals were clewed up; the breeze still freshening, we clewed up and stowed the fore and main-top-gallant sails, running thus until near daylight, when we single reefed the top-sails. At twelve that day, were under close reefed main-top-sail and reefed fore-sail, bounding along at the rate of twelve knots per hour. Thus we ran until we sighted Terra del Fuego. As we hauled around the Cape the wind seemed to follow us; the sea ran quarterly on the vessel and very high.A heavy sea struck us on our quarter, and hove her on her beam ends; immediately letting go the fore sheet relieved her, and again she righted, broaching to as she done so. Hauling up and stowing her fore-sail, we hove her to, headed towards the Atlantic. The wind again shifted into the southwest, and abated somewhat, still the sea ran high indeed. We made all sail possible and drove her through the swells; sometimes she would scoop up water with her bows and throw it off astern, washing the men about deck in spite of all efforts to the contrary.The weather was intensely cold, and, had we been compelled to have staid there much longer, I fear we should have frozen to death, for our clothes were already stiff with ice.The wind continued in the southward till we reached the entrance of St. George's Channel; cast lead and found sixty fathoms of water; then bearing full, we sawCape Clear in a few hours. The wind heading us blew down the channel for three days, during which we could make no progress at all. This seemed indeed tedious, being so near our port of destination. The wind springing up, and all sail set, we ran up the channel for Liverpool; took in a pilot at Holy Head, who hove us to at the Old Alms Head that night, and took us in the next morning.As we came along the pier head we hired men to secure the sails, such was our anxiety to be on shore. The next day we were paid off, and took our chests to the boarding-house.Liverpool, at the mouth of the Mersey, on the Irish Sea, is an important commercial city, being next to London, the greatest port in the British empire.It is situated from Manchester thirty-six miles, and two hundred and four from London. The city is irregularly built, but the public buildings are elegant.The Exchange is double the size of the Royal Exchange of London, and cost the immense sum of £100,000.The Town Hall is another noble edifice.Liverpool is the grand medium through which the trade of England with Ireland and with this country is carried on; and a vast quantity of business is transacted by its merchants with the ports of the Mediterranean, East Indies, and other parts of the world. Cotton is the leading article of import, and is extensively used in the manufactures of Lancashire, of which, in 1830, out of 793,695 bales imported into England, 703,200 were brought into Liverpool.The duties paid at the custom-house of Liverpool in1837, were four millions, three hundred and fifty-one thousand, four hundred and ninety-six pounds, being about a fifth of those paid throughout the whole kingdom.Liverpool is the greatest outlet for the goods manufactured in Lancashire and Yorkshire, for sale in America. The town, thus so extensively concerned in that commerce from which England derives its chief glory, presents many external features not unworthy of its mercantile character. Of these the chief are thedocks, the sight of which, bristling with numberless masts, and a scene of constant bustle from loading and unloading, fills a stranger with amazement. The town contains several handsome streets, the chief being Castle street and Dale street. There are many well conducted charitable institutions. About fifteen hundred patients are admitted annually in the infirmary.The Blue-Coat hospital maintains and educates about two hundred boys and girls.The school for the blind is on a most extensive scale.A handsome and spacious theatre, and a circus, are open during a great part of the year.At the Royal Liverpool Institution, public lectures are given; and attached to it is a philosophical apparatus and a museum of natural curiosities.A Botanic Garden was established in 1801, at the expense of about ten thousand pounds.Among the remarkable objects connected with the town, the ornamental cemetery of St. James, formed out of an old stone quarry, is worthy of particular notice.

Return to San Blass. Description of the Town. Strikes a Spaniard, and resists the Police. Is placed in the Stocks. Goes on board the Tammercee. The Captain is employed to take a quantity of Gold to England. Fight between the Officers. Anchor at Tehuantepec for Dye-Stuffs. Precaution used against Scorpions, Centipedes, &c. Arrival at Panama. Scenes on Shore. Arrive at Callao. Ride to Lima. Description of Lima. Arrival at Valparaiso. Again double the Cape on the wings of the wind. Arrival at Liverpool. Sketch of the City.

Getting in a cargo of dry goods, we set sail for San Blass. Smoothly we glided down the La Plata, having a gentle west wind which lasted till we made the Falklands.

Seemingly unwilling we should double the Cape with any degree of pleasantness, it veered round to the south, and freshening each moment, soon blew a hurricane which lasted thirty-six hours. When moderating, and at the same time shifting into the east, we braced full, and stood for the Cape; for eleven days the wind continued in the east, and gave us a fine passage around the Cape. We were accompanied on our way by a large Iceberg of the largest dimensions, which kept within half a mile of us for twenty-four hours.

The wind again, in a very accommodating manner, turned in our favor, driving us before it with great velocity under close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail, for fourteen days, at which time we reached Valparaiso.Still favoring, though more lightly, we were enabled to reach San Blass in about the same time required for the outward bound voyage. Discharging our cargo we were paid off. I then went to the city of San Blass, which is five or six miles from the beach. As I remained there but a short time, I cannot be expected to give a full account of the city, which is situated on an eminence which rises an hundred or two feet gradually from the sea; and is enclosed by a huge wall, having only two gates or entrances into it. One of these is on the north side; the other, on the west side. A part of the wall which faces the sea, is built upon a ledge of rocks which rise almost perpendicular, and forms an impregnable barrier. The walls are heavily mounted with guns on the side towards the sea, and manned continually. The dwellings are mostly built of stone of ancient architecture; low and covered with tiles. The streets are narrow and dirty, though mostly paved with stone. Dissipation is carried in every thing to a great length. The inhabitants are, in a great degree, low and sensual. One day, while on shore, I traded with a Spaniard, with whom I had a few hasty words; his insolence I could not bear, and gave him a severe blow which felled him to the ground. Seeing the police on the alert I ran for the sea. Soon they overtook me. I gave the first one a blow, and threw him over a wall down a bank of a few feet. Finding more than I could easily handle, I surrendered. I was taken before the governor, who caused me to be placed in the stocks for twenty-four hours.

I had my hands, feet, and neck, placed in the stocks, which was in the hot sun, upon the burning sand, duringthe day; I had to look continually up to the sun, and ere night was almost blind; my face badly swollen, and almost blistered. Swarms of mosquitoes and fleas visited me at night, each paying their respects, leaving an impression upon my feelings. Crowds of natives gathered around, offering me every insult they were capable of doing. When I was taken from the stocks I could hardly walk or stand, and it required several days for me to regain the use of my limbs to any comfortable degree.

Soon as I was able I crawled down to the shore, and fell in with Captain Masters, of the ship Tammercee of Liverpool, whither he would sail in a few days. Knowing he was in want of hands, I offered myself for thirty-seven dollars per month: this he was unwilling to give. Meeting him again in a few days, he said he had seen my former captain, who gave me a good character, and a reputation as a seaman, therefore he would give me the desired wages.

I went on board and was given the second mate's duty, which the ship carpenter had performed.

At evening the captain selected six of us to follow him on shore. We went to a house where there was a quantity of gold coins, mostly doubloons. He ordered us to take as many as we could carry, and go for the ship. This was done twice, and daylight coming on, we were deterred from going again. This was the property of resident merchants, who wished to make a deposit in the Bank of England, and were obliged to resort to this expedient on account of the laws, which prohibited their removal. We received a present fromthe merchants of a doubloon each for our services, and as a sort of bribe to keep silence.

The third day after I shipped on board we set sail. This was quite the latter part of May, 1838. Mr. Evans (mate) came on board in a state of intoxication, which was the cause of hard words between him and the captain, who was a person capable of the highest degree of excitement. The captain becoming enraged, seized a spyglass and hurled it at the mate, striking him on the head and brought him to the deck; collecting himself, he passed it back in the same way, but missed his aim. Exasperated to a still greater degree, the captain rushed to the cabin and brought forward a pair of pistols, intending to shoot the mate down. His wife being aboard, and seeing by his manner there was likely to be trouble, rushed up first and placed herself between him and the mate, bidding him fire if he chose. A moment sufficed to cool him down in a measure, and the matter was dropped by putting the mate off duty for ten days.

We came to anchor at the Gulf of Tehuantepec, or the roadstead of Rosario, and moored with a swivel.—We sent down the top-gallant masts and yards, and got ready to take on a cargo at Nicaragua.

The shore at this place as well as most others on the Mexican coast is almost inaccessible, from the high rolling surf, which at this time was altogether so for the boats. There are but few harbors in Mexico; consequently we anchored the long boat out about sixty fathoms from the beach, and erected a capstan on the shore; a block was fastened to the bow of the boat, through which a hawser was passed, which also went around the capstan on shore, thus forming a continuousline from the boat to the shore. Natives were employed to lash the wood, which is cut in sticks about four feet long, to one side of the hawser and pull upon the other, and thus convey it to the boat, where men were stationed to untie and load it into other boats, and then to the ship. This wood is very rough, and full of holes and crevices, into which scorpions, centipedes, and a small blue snake, of five or six inches in length, crawl. On removing or handling it, they run out and bite the first object that comes in their way or happens to touch them.

The bite or sting of the scorpion is said to prove fatal many times in two hours; their bite in the spring and summer months are said, by Pike, to be much more suddenly fatal. He also says, in speaking of them as found in other portions of Mexico: "remove them three leagues and they become perfectly harmless and lose all their venomous qualities." As a preventive we took three bottles of spirits, (old rum) and put a scorpion in one, a centipede in another, reserving the third for the snake; they were put in alive and allowed to die in the spirits. These to be used by applying the spirits of the respective bottles to the wounds of the different species. Fortunately for us but one was bitten, which was cured by immediate application of the spirits.

A disturbance arose to our quiet one day between the captain and one of the crew, which resulted in throwing the sailor on shore, one hundred miles nearly from a habitation of any kind, except temporary ones erected by the natives who came from Acapulco, 100 miles distant, to cut and deliver the wood to ships. Seeing a shipmate thus turned off, without clothes except thoseworn off, with no particular means of subsistence, was more than I could endure, and I resolved to assist him. The next morning I went to the long boat as usual, taking with me two shirts and a pound of tobacco rolled up as compactly as possible. Getting to the boat I jumped over and swam as far as I could, then caught hold of the hawser for the surf or swells to pass me; dropping into the smooth sea I exerted every nerve to reach the shore before the next sea; this I was unable to do. Soon the next swell was upon me, and by its impetus I was thrown high upon the sand insensible. The natives took me up and rubbed me for a long time before I could be brought to a state of consciousness, when they gave me some spirits to drink, and in a few hours I was enabled to walk out.

At night the ship's boat was sent to take me off; the surf running so high rendered it impossible to do so, only by rowing above about five miles to a small cove. Going on board I met the captain at the gangway, who said:

"Well, boy, how is that old pelt of yours? have you got it scorched any?"

"No, sir" said I; "I have had too much experience in that business, to have the sun effect me any more than it does an alligator!"

Having finished our cargo we weighed anchor, double reefed our top-sails, set our course and stood off. Our vessel being a fast sailer, and the wind blowing a half gale from the west, soon brought us abreast of Panama. Being in want of ship stores, we put into the bay of the same name, and came to anchor. Sent a boat on shore and procured a supply of water, which was of the finestquality, and necessary stores, and were again ready for sea.

The afternoon previous to sailing we were allowed on shore, when we fell in with a company of soldiers belonging to the fort. With them we drank several times. Finding at length I was growing quite stupid—an effect altogether different from what liquor usually produces on me, I was confident it had been drugged for some purpose. Seeing the sad dilemma into which we were hastening, I proposed to walk out and work it off if possible. But we were already within their clutches. They followed and easily prevailed upon us to visit the fort to "enjoy a view of it by lamplight." I was conscious they were imposing upon us, still I could not stop; their serpent-like charms were successfully thrown around me; to resist I could not. They led us in and about the fort, pointing out its particular points of combined beauty and strength. We thought no more of duties on ship-board, or of our situation, till a late hour at night, when the effects of the drugs were leaving us.

In the morning the true nature of our situation found itself upon us. With apparent satisfaction we sent out for a bottle of spirits, which was soon brought to us. On looking around a little we found others decoyed and confined in a like manner; among them was a stout, seven-foot Irishman. We gave him a good supply of spirits, and then held up to his view the great wrong we as well as himself had sustained. Gradually the true Irish blood was seen to work in his bosom, as he reflected upon his situation and wrongs, until he became perfectly exasperated. Clenching his fists, he said:

"An' sure we'll be after leaving this place, we will."

He became violent in threatenings. The guard hearing a noise, came to learn the cause. Soon as the door was opened, the guard was seized and hurled by his arm, (now rendered doubly powerful by alcohol and anger,) half way across the yard. Others following closely up, were passed along also, till half a dozen were thus promiscuously piled up, scarce knowing how to find themselves. With a mighty effort we then rushed over those that stood outside the door, who in their dismay knew not what to do till so late that action would have been fruitless.

We ran as fast as possible to the beach and seized a boat, and went to the ship. Telling the mate of the adventure, he immediately lowered a boat and sent for the captain, who was on shore; meanwhile he got the anchor up and was ready for sea.

The captain coming aboard, we bid farewell to Panama, leaving our harbor fees unpaid.

What became of the Irishman I never knew, as he took a different course from the rest of us after leaving the fort.

Nothing of note occurred until we were off the coast of Peru and dropped our anchor at Callao, the seaport of Lima, the capital of Peru, which is situated seven miles from the shore. After the ship was well secured, a ride was proposed to Lima, in which several of us joined. We proceeded to a stable in which were a great number of horses, trained to the saddle alone. Each procured one by paying a dollar in advance, with which a ticket also was obtained for entrance into the city. Those horses were so well trained that they requiredno guidance whatever; by simply throwing the line upon the neck loosely, they set off into a fine gallop, which they held till they reached the city.

On starting we received an urgent injunction to "look well to the saddle," they care but little about the horse. Arriving at the gates of the city, a sentry appeared who demanded our tickets, which, after examining, he handed back and allowed us to pass on. The horses setting off at full gallop soon brought us to another stable, which is connected with the one at which we obtained our horses. Here we dismounted, giving ourselves no farther trouble about them. We wandered around the city as long as we chose. When returning to the stable we found our horses refreshed, with no additional expense, and ready to take us back to Callao.

The waters of the Rimac, on which Lima is situated, are clear and transparent. The city is four miles long, by two broad, and is surrounded by brick walls, which are heavily mounted with cannon.

This city, next to Mexico, is the finest built by the Spaniards in the New World; its streets are straight and handsome; the houses are built only of one story, on account of earthquakes by which they are frequented. Lima was founded by Pizarro in 1534, and by him calledLos Reges, or the "City of the Kings." Like all other Spanish cities, Lima has a great square in the centre, where all the principal streets terminate. On this square the principal public buildings stand; such as the cathedral, the university, the treasury, the arsenal, and the town hall.

The churches and convents are still beautiful, though robbed of vast wealth during the last revolution. Itis estimated that about one-fourth of the population are whites.

Leaving Callao we had a fine breeze, set studding-sails alow and aloft. When abreast Valparaiso, the wind veered around into the south and blew a stiff breeze, which obliged us to lay off and on for a few days. The wind dying away, we put into the harbor of Valparaiso, which is the most singular one I ever entered. The water is of vast depth, being upwards of fifty fathoms within a short distance of the town. We spent some little time on shore, which we enjoyed very finely indeed; found the natives kind and hospitable. The men follow the European fashion of dress, while the females adhere strictly to that of Peru. Many of the common and lower classes wear the ponsha, which is simply a large cloth with a hole in it for the neck. In the use of the lasso they equal if not excel any other people, throwing it with the greatest precision. Children at an early age practice the lasso upon poultry and cats, which they throw with unerring aim.

By the gradual change in the temperature of the atmosphere we were forcibly reminded of nearness to the Cape, which we were again to double. Finding the quantity of spirits on hand insufficient as we then thought for the occasion, we told the captain we would not double the Cape with so small a supply. Against this he remonstrated. We urged him to compliance.

After spending a week at Valparaiso, we left the harbor and stood at sea with a fair wind from the west; thus we ran about thirty-six hours, when the wind hauled into the north.

"Dreary and hollow moans foretold a gale;Nor long the issue tarried; then the wind,Unprisoned, blew its trumpet loud and shrill;*    *    *    *    the rainCame down like music."

The fore and main royals were clewed up; the breeze still freshening, we clewed up and stowed the fore and main-top-gallant sails, running thus until near daylight, when we single reefed the top-sails. At twelve that day, were under close reefed main-top-sail and reefed fore-sail, bounding along at the rate of twelve knots per hour. Thus we ran until we sighted Terra del Fuego. As we hauled around the Cape the wind seemed to follow us; the sea ran quarterly on the vessel and very high.

A heavy sea struck us on our quarter, and hove her on her beam ends; immediately letting go the fore sheet relieved her, and again she righted, broaching to as she done so. Hauling up and stowing her fore-sail, we hove her to, headed towards the Atlantic. The wind again shifted into the southwest, and abated somewhat, still the sea ran high indeed. We made all sail possible and drove her through the swells; sometimes she would scoop up water with her bows and throw it off astern, washing the men about deck in spite of all efforts to the contrary.

The weather was intensely cold, and, had we been compelled to have staid there much longer, I fear we should have frozen to death, for our clothes were already stiff with ice.

The wind continued in the southward till we reached the entrance of St. George's Channel; cast lead and found sixty fathoms of water; then bearing full, we sawCape Clear in a few hours. The wind heading us blew down the channel for three days, during which we could make no progress at all. This seemed indeed tedious, being so near our port of destination. The wind springing up, and all sail set, we ran up the channel for Liverpool; took in a pilot at Holy Head, who hove us to at the Old Alms Head that night, and took us in the next morning.

As we came along the pier head we hired men to secure the sails, such was our anxiety to be on shore. The next day we were paid off, and took our chests to the boarding-house.

Liverpool, at the mouth of the Mersey, on the Irish Sea, is an important commercial city, being next to London, the greatest port in the British empire.

It is situated from Manchester thirty-six miles, and two hundred and four from London. The city is irregularly built, but the public buildings are elegant.

The Exchange is double the size of the Royal Exchange of London, and cost the immense sum of £100,000.

The Town Hall is another noble edifice.

Liverpool is the grand medium through which the trade of England with Ireland and with this country is carried on; and a vast quantity of business is transacted by its merchants with the ports of the Mediterranean, East Indies, and other parts of the world. Cotton is the leading article of import, and is extensively used in the manufactures of Lancashire, of which, in 1830, out of 793,695 bales imported into England, 703,200 were brought into Liverpool.

The duties paid at the custom-house of Liverpool in1837, were four millions, three hundred and fifty-one thousand, four hundred and ninety-six pounds, being about a fifth of those paid throughout the whole kingdom.

Liverpool is the greatest outlet for the goods manufactured in Lancashire and Yorkshire, for sale in America. The town, thus so extensively concerned in that commerce from which England derives its chief glory, presents many external features not unworthy of its mercantile character. Of these the chief are thedocks, the sight of which, bristling with numberless masts, and a scene of constant bustle from loading and unloading, fills a stranger with amazement. The town contains several handsome streets, the chief being Castle street and Dale street. There are many well conducted charitable institutions. About fifteen hundred patients are admitted annually in the infirmary.

The Blue-Coat hospital maintains and educates about two hundred boys and girls.

The school for the blind is on a most extensive scale.

A handsome and spacious theatre, and a circus, are open during a great part of the year.

At the Royal Liverpool Institution, public lectures are given; and attached to it is a philosophical apparatus and a museum of natural curiosities.

A Botanic Garden was established in 1801, at the expense of about ten thousand pounds.

Among the remarkable objects connected with the town, the ornamental cemetery of St. James, formed out of an old stone quarry, is worthy of particular notice.

CHAPTER XIV.Proceed to New Brunswick. Encounter a severe storm. Come near losing the ship. Arrived at Delhouse. Sickness of the author. Bleeds himself. His end apparently approaches. Timely assistance. Sails for Quebec. Description of the Citadel. A sketch of its history.I remained at Liverpool only a few days, when I shipped on board the barque Asia, Capt. Hannah, (a Scotchman) as second mate. Ten days from the time of my arrival on the Tammercee we weighed anchor and put to sea, bound for Delhouse, N. B.We proceeded down the channel with a head wind until abreast the Tuscan light, when the wind favoring us, we soon lost sight of the land.We had a good passage until we reached the New Foundland banks. These are immense sand banks or shoals which greatly endanger the safety of vessels bound thither. In the spring of the year they are covered with ice which washes down the Davis straits from the more frozen regions. Then it is, that ships are obliged to lay to, during the night.The wind now hauled round from the northwest and blew a complete hurricane for about six hours, when it abated and fell into a calm. During the calm, we caught several codfish and halibut.The dense fog which arose was a sure omen of a southerly wind. For this we made ready. The windcame at length like a "cat's paw" upon the water. Sails were trimmed, studding-sails set, &c. The wind increased every moment, and in the course of two hours we were obliged to take in the studding-sails, and top-gallant-sails, and in the course of three hours were under close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail. Thus we run until the captain thought us to be in the Gulf of St. Lawrence; and about 12 o'clock at night altered our course one point. At 4 the next morning I called the mate. I had scarcely laid my head on the pillow, when I heard the order, "port your helm, put hard to port," and at the same time, "haul in the larboard braces, quick; bear a hand my good fellows or we are all on the beach." At this I sprung upon deck, with nothing on, save a shirt and a pair of drawers, and met the captain in the same dress as myself. After the helm had been hard put to port, she came around on her keel, a thing which I never saw her do before. Had she not done so, we should have run on the beach at Cape Breton. This is a large island, separated from Nova Scotia by the straits of Canseau. It is about 100 miles in length, and from 30 to 80 in breadth, and is divided into two nearly equal portions by an arm of the sea, called Bras. de. or. The fog was so dense that it was impossible to see more than one-fourth of a mile. Had not the high cliffs towered above the fog, which enabled those on the lookout to see them, we should inevitably have been wrecked in this awful place. After the ship was headed off shore, the line was cast and we found only four fathoms water. Our ship was drawing 18 feet, so that the heaving of the sea caused her to come within a few inches of the bottom.For a few moments the greatest fear was depicted on every countenance, but so accustomed are the mariners to danger, that perils past cause no forebodings. They being soon forgotten, they rush on to new dangers.Considerable difficulty arose about the regular allowance of spirits, which was three glasses per day. But the sailors now swore they would not work, unless they might be allowed to have four. So desperate were they grown that one of them struck the mate. I was standing near, and sprang and dealt the fellow a blow under the ear, which sent him headlong upon the deck, where he lay several minutes. On getting up, he asked me why I struck him. I told him, that blow was the promptings of pure love; to which he replied, "if that is the way you love, I want no more of it." He then went forward about his business, with his jaw so bruised that it was several days before he could eat his regular allowance.After we came to anchor at the ballast ground, off Delhouse, after a passage of thirty days, and were discharging our cargo, consisting of oakum, wheat, rum, tobacco, bale goods, iron and nails, which was carried on shore on lighters, all of the seamen became intoxicated to such a degree as to be utterly unable to perform duty. When it was ascertained that they stole the liquor from the ship and took it on shore, they all went below and refused to do duty unless the captain would sign a paper freeing them from embezzlement, and continuing their wages to them. This they knew he would readily do, as the cold weather was coming on, which made him extremely anxious to get away, lest he should be caught in the ice, and be under the necessityof remaining during the winter, which he would have been obliged to do, had they left, for hands could not be procured to do the work. After the paper was signed they went to their duty.When the ballast was discharged, we hauled the ship to her berth and commenced taking in lumber. One night the raft of timber, (composed of logs about 75 in number) broke loose from the chain to which it was fastened. The mate, hearing the noise, called to me, as I had charge of it, saying, "the raft has broken adrift." I sprang from my berth and called the men to assist me, but called in vain. No one, save an old Frenchman, would venture upon the raft to assist me. I had nothing on but the clothes I slept in, (I usually slept in cold weather with my drawers and stockings on,) save my cap. We found the logs getting loose from each other, as well as from the ship. The wind blew from the northwest very hard, blowing the water all over us.Thus we worked with our clothes stiff with ice for nearly three hours. After we had secured the timbers, we went on deck. I took a stick and beat the ice from my drawers, shifted myself throughout, drank nearly a half pint of hot sling, and went to my berth.The next day I was very sore and stiff; the night following I experienced some pain in my side, got up, and walked the deck; vomited several times. I grew gradually worse until I could not breathe without a sort of catch or twitching, which was extremely painful. When I lay down, I could not rise again without assistance.When morning came a physician came on board andbled me, which afforded great relief. He came again in the afternoon of the same day, and learning that the captain was going to sail soon, he told him if he carried me to sea, it would be the death of me, as I was most severely attacked with pleurisy, and must have medical aid immediately.I was taken on shore to a house, where I remained seven days, seeing my sick nurse only four times, he leaving me some soup.The vessel left the harbor the next day after I went on shore, being driven out by the ice, with the loss of an anchor and part of the cable.One day the old Frenchman who assisted me on the raft, came to see me. I told him how I had been neglected, and shaking his head, he said it was too bad, and that I should not stay there, and then left the room. After an hour or two he returned with a horse and sleigh, assisted me into it and drove a distance of five miles, to the house of a French lady, where I remained six weeks.This kind lady, although an entire stranger, took a mother's care of me, at the same time knowing not that she should ever be compensated for it. Her many kindnesses I can never forget.I inquired of the doctor if there was any money in the treasury at Delhouse. He said there was, and seemed astonished that I had not made application for it. He then wrote a certificate, stating that I had been left, at the advice of a physician, by the barque Asia, of Liverpool, and was still under his care. This being presented to the treasury brought me a guinea per weekduring the time I should remain under the care of a physician.This fund is raised by reserving one shilling per month from the wages of all seamen that sail in British vessels. In every port of any considerable note a hospital is erected, in others a fund is deposited, to be expended in case of sickness of any of her majesty's subjects.At the expiration of six weeks, I had so far recovered as to be able to walk a short distance to the neighbors in pleasant weather. My appetite was getting to be very good, and in fact, I considered myself almost well.One day Mrs. Prosper, (my kind nurse's name) wishing to go to Delhouse, asked me to go with her. Wrapping myself up warmly, we started. On arriving at Delhouse, I went to the public house and remained while she was doing her business. On our return I got a little chilly. This with the fatigue of the ride (which proved too much for me) quite overcame me, and obliged me to take to bed again. I called for the doctor. A boy was sent for him, but returned, saying, that the doctor was also confined to his bed. I almost gave up in despair. There I was with a second and more severe attack of pleurisy, without medical aid. Mrs. Prosper aided by her sister (who with me were the only members of the family) did all in their power to assist me. The pain I experienced was almost beyond endurance. I found the roots of my finger nails were purple, the blood having settled there. The veins on my arms and hands were full almost to bursting. I called Mrs. Prosper, who, when she saw me, said to her sister, "he willnot live long." This I understood, although spoken in French, and it came to my ears like thunder. Thus to die, away from my childhood's home, with none save the friends of an hour to soothe me, in my last moments.Then, as in every other time of danger, did I regret the step I had taken in leaving home, and resolved, that should my life be again spared, I would hasten to the home from which I had been absent nearly nine years, (to which I had pledged myself I wouldneverreturn) and forget the petty occurrence that forced me from those to whom I was bound by the nearest and dearest ties. I called for a small knife which was in my vest pocket, resolved to make a desperate effort to save myself from the death which seemed so near. After being raised up in bed, I bled myself in the left arm, and then taking the knife in my left hand opened a vein in my right arm. Such was the pressure of blood that it flew all over the room. The women seeing what I had done, left the house screeching at the top of their voices. I lay literally weltering in my own blood. The blood left my finger nails, the pains ceased, and I was perfectly easy, still conscious that my end was near.To fully describe my situation, my pen is inadequate, and I must leave the reader to imagine for himself my situation, forsaken as I was by every person from whom assistance could be had, and bleeding profusely, with no means to check it.So much was I reduced, that I was about falling into a sleep from which I never should have awoke. At this moment an old Scotchman (a quaker) who had occasionally visited me, aroused by the cries of the women,came into the room and asked what was the matter. I was too feeble to answer, but cast my eyes about the room, signifying look for yourself. He left the room, but soon returned with some pebbles which he took from a spring near the house, and bound them on my arms, thus checking the blood. He then went in search of Mrs. Prosper, whom he reprimanded for leaving me. (By the way she supposed me attempting suicide.)I was removed on a sheet, and the bed which was wet through with blood was changed, and I was laid again upon it. There I remained nine days motionless and speechless and almost senseless and lifeless. The third day the doctor had so far recovered as to visit me. On hearing the situation I was in, he said the bleeding was the only thing that would have saved me. He told Mrs. Prosper that it was very doubtful about my getting up again.Leaving some medicine, he left the house. Instead of giving me the medicine he left, Mrs. Prosper procured a dozen bottles of the best Port wine, to which she added one pound of Peruvian bark. I drank a wine-glass full night and morning. Several times during the day my mouth was washed or moistened with a sponge saturated with the wine.One morning the sister of Mrs. Prosper came into the room, and with tears in her eyes, bade me an affectionate farewell, saying she was going away and should not see me again. Seeing her so affected at my situation, I could not refrain from shedding tears also. Seeing me shed tears, she considered it ominous of my recovery.Each day I found I had additional strength, and withthe best care was, at the expiration of three weeks, enabled to sit up a few moments at a time.I was obliged to keep the doctor along, for the moment he left me my pay from government was stopped.Now for the first time since my sickness did I attempt to acquaint my friends with my situation. (I had written several times from Liverpool and other places, but received no answer.) To this I received no reply, and at the expiration of four weeks, wrote again. This also was unnoticed.I then made up my mind that the circle which once welcomed me as the only son and brother, had resolved to disown me. This, to a repentant wanderer, occasioned many an hour of sadness.I resolved that should I ever so far recover as to be able to find them, to cast myself upon them, begging them to receive back their son and brother, who had almost cursed the hour that separated him from them.The doctor visited me every day, and at each visit left an additional supply of medicine. This he continued till about the first of March; at the expiration of which time I found myself in possession of drugs enough for a wholesale Apothecary establishment, the doctor, meanwhile, supposing I had pursued his directions.I was at length left upon my own resources, for the doctor, pronouncing me free from his care, stopped my funds.One neighbor, building a schooner offered me the job of making the sails, which busied me until the 1st of April, when I went on board a schooner bound to Quebec.The capital of Canada and of British America, is situated on a bold promontory, at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. Charles, (or Little River,) about 350 miles from the sea. The basin or harbor of Quebec is sufficiently large to contain 75 or 100 sail of the line.Accidentally becoming acquainted with an officer of the 15th Reg. of H. M. troops, then stationed there, I was enabled to visit parts, which to most visitors would be inaccessible. Quebec, the strongest town in America, and the strongest in the world, except Gibraltar, is built on a rock, which is partly of marble, and partly of slate, and is divided into Upper and Lower Towns.At the time it was founded, 1608, it is said the tide washed the rock; since that time the river has sunk away so far as to leave a large spot of dry ground on which stands the Lower Town. The houses of both towns are of stone, and well built. The fortifications are extensive but irregular. The natural situation of the town renders its defence easy; the lofty, perpendicular rocks, on the southeast, constitute in themselves an insurmountable barrier. The river St. Charles, with its shallow water, and low flats of sand, and mud drained almost dry, by the ebbing of the tide, forms an obstacle difficult to be encountered in the erection of commanding works, or to the location of ships on the east and north; and even, should the water allow ships to come up, their guns could not injure in the least the works of the Upper Town, while they would subject themselves to great danger from the cannons and bombs of those elevated ramparts. The only accessible point is on the southwest from the plains of Abraham, where there is no barrier of rocks, no river, ravine, or marsh,or other natural impediments to an enemy's approach, which deficiency is supplied by walls and towers. The distance across from one river to the other is nearly a mile; the average diameter is three-fourths of a mile. A complete wall of hewn stone encircles the town, and is furnished with strong massy arches and gates, and with deep ditches. The walls vary much in height as well as in thickness; everywhere however, they are high enough to render escalade very difficult, and a breach almost hopeless. In the strongest part, next the plains, they are about fifty feet high, and about an equal thickness; even the lofty precipice of naked rock is surmounted with stone walls and cannon, and the highest points are covered with towers and distinct batteries; and generally the curtains of the walls are looped for musketry; and projecting bastions present their artillery to the assailants, raking the ditches immediately adjacent to the inner walls. This inner wall, as I have already remarked, is about fifty feet thick. Besides this, there is another wall and ditch, which both must be scaled before the inner or main wall can be approached. A party would be most dreadfully exposed while mounting this exterior wall. The avenue to the gate St. Louis, which opens to the plains, is bounded on both sides by high walls, which make several turns in zigzag, and at every turn cannon point directly to the approacher. In every possible direction, where the walls can be approached, large guns are ready to meet the assailants. The highest point of the rock is called Cape Diamond, and upon it is erected the famous citadel of Quebec. This is not, as one might suppose, a building or castle covered with a roof. It isopen, and differs only from the rest of the works by being more elevated, and therefore more commanding.The highest part of the citadel is Brock's Battery, which is mounted with cannon pointed towards the plains. Within the walls are numerous magazines and stores of provisions of sufficient quantity to supply the town for a term of years. Piles of cannon balls every where meet the eye. Beyond the walls, on the plains, are the four martello Towers. They are solidly constructed of stone, about forty feet high, and about the same diameter at the base. These are mounted with guns pointing towards the plains, and effectually commanding it. The principal object of these is to prevent the enemy from obtaining possession of the high ground of the plains. The guns on these towers can only be made to bear one way towards the plains, so as to prevent, as in all other parts, the enemy, should they obtain possession of them, or any one part, from using their own arms against them. The side of the towers, towards the town, can be easily battered by the guns upon the walls. So, should an enemy get possession of the towers, they could be easily thrown from them.The city was founded by the French in 1608. In 1629, the English reduced it with all Canada; but it was restored to the French in 1632. In 1711 it was again besieged by the English, but without success. It was again, in 1759, attacked and conquered, after a battle memorable for the death of Gen. Wolfe, who fell in the moment of victory. As he was expiring in the arms of his soldiers he heard the cry of "they fly." He raised his drooping head, and inquired "Who fly?" being answered "the French," he resigned himselfback into the arms of a lieutenant, exclaiming, with his last breath, "then I die in peace." By the peace of 1763 this was confirmed to the English. In 1775, the Americans attacked it under Gen. Montgomery, who was slain, and his army repulsed with great loss. Great improvements have been made within a few years, and are still making, which render it so strong in its defences, that any attempt with any force whatever to take it, would prove a fruitless undertaking.The time allotted me (eight days) for staying at this place, was soon passed, giving me but little opportunity to examine minutely the many objects of wonder and curiosity.

Proceed to New Brunswick. Encounter a severe storm. Come near losing the ship. Arrived at Delhouse. Sickness of the author. Bleeds himself. His end apparently approaches. Timely assistance. Sails for Quebec. Description of the Citadel. A sketch of its history.

I remained at Liverpool only a few days, when I shipped on board the barque Asia, Capt. Hannah, (a Scotchman) as second mate. Ten days from the time of my arrival on the Tammercee we weighed anchor and put to sea, bound for Delhouse, N. B.

We proceeded down the channel with a head wind until abreast the Tuscan light, when the wind favoring us, we soon lost sight of the land.

We had a good passage until we reached the New Foundland banks. These are immense sand banks or shoals which greatly endanger the safety of vessels bound thither. In the spring of the year they are covered with ice which washes down the Davis straits from the more frozen regions. Then it is, that ships are obliged to lay to, during the night.

The wind now hauled round from the northwest and blew a complete hurricane for about six hours, when it abated and fell into a calm. During the calm, we caught several codfish and halibut.

The dense fog which arose was a sure omen of a southerly wind. For this we made ready. The windcame at length like a "cat's paw" upon the water. Sails were trimmed, studding-sails set, &c. The wind increased every moment, and in the course of two hours we were obliged to take in the studding-sails, and top-gallant-sails, and in the course of three hours were under close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail. Thus we run until the captain thought us to be in the Gulf of St. Lawrence; and about 12 o'clock at night altered our course one point. At 4 the next morning I called the mate. I had scarcely laid my head on the pillow, when I heard the order, "port your helm, put hard to port," and at the same time, "haul in the larboard braces, quick; bear a hand my good fellows or we are all on the beach." At this I sprung upon deck, with nothing on, save a shirt and a pair of drawers, and met the captain in the same dress as myself. After the helm had been hard put to port, she came around on her keel, a thing which I never saw her do before. Had she not done so, we should have run on the beach at Cape Breton. This is a large island, separated from Nova Scotia by the straits of Canseau. It is about 100 miles in length, and from 30 to 80 in breadth, and is divided into two nearly equal portions by an arm of the sea, called Bras. de. or. The fog was so dense that it was impossible to see more than one-fourth of a mile. Had not the high cliffs towered above the fog, which enabled those on the lookout to see them, we should inevitably have been wrecked in this awful place. After the ship was headed off shore, the line was cast and we found only four fathoms water. Our ship was drawing 18 feet, so that the heaving of the sea caused her to come within a few inches of the bottom.

For a few moments the greatest fear was depicted on every countenance, but so accustomed are the mariners to danger, that perils past cause no forebodings. They being soon forgotten, they rush on to new dangers.

Considerable difficulty arose about the regular allowance of spirits, which was three glasses per day. But the sailors now swore they would not work, unless they might be allowed to have four. So desperate were they grown that one of them struck the mate. I was standing near, and sprang and dealt the fellow a blow under the ear, which sent him headlong upon the deck, where he lay several minutes. On getting up, he asked me why I struck him. I told him, that blow was the promptings of pure love; to which he replied, "if that is the way you love, I want no more of it." He then went forward about his business, with his jaw so bruised that it was several days before he could eat his regular allowance.

After we came to anchor at the ballast ground, off Delhouse, after a passage of thirty days, and were discharging our cargo, consisting of oakum, wheat, rum, tobacco, bale goods, iron and nails, which was carried on shore on lighters, all of the seamen became intoxicated to such a degree as to be utterly unable to perform duty. When it was ascertained that they stole the liquor from the ship and took it on shore, they all went below and refused to do duty unless the captain would sign a paper freeing them from embezzlement, and continuing their wages to them. This they knew he would readily do, as the cold weather was coming on, which made him extremely anxious to get away, lest he should be caught in the ice, and be under the necessityof remaining during the winter, which he would have been obliged to do, had they left, for hands could not be procured to do the work. After the paper was signed they went to their duty.

When the ballast was discharged, we hauled the ship to her berth and commenced taking in lumber. One night the raft of timber, (composed of logs about 75 in number) broke loose from the chain to which it was fastened. The mate, hearing the noise, called to me, as I had charge of it, saying, "the raft has broken adrift." I sprang from my berth and called the men to assist me, but called in vain. No one, save an old Frenchman, would venture upon the raft to assist me. I had nothing on but the clothes I slept in, (I usually slept in cold weather with my drawers and stockings on,) save my cap. We found the logs getting loose from each other, as well as from the ship. The wind blew from the northwest very hard, blowing the water all over us.

Thus we worked with our clothes stiff with ice for nearly three hours. After we had secured the timbers, we went on deck. I took a stick and beat the ice from my drawers, shifted myself throughout, drank nearly a half pint of hot sling, and went to my berth.

The next day I was very sore and stiff; the night following I experienced some pain in my side, got up, and walked the deck; vomited several times. I grew gradually worse until I could not breathe without a sort of catch or twitching, which was extremely painful. When I lay down, I could not rise again without assistance.

When morning came a physician came on board andbled me, which afforded great relief. He came again in the afternoon of the same day, and learning that the captain was going to sail soon, he told him if he carried me to sea, it would be the death of me, as I was most severely attacked with pleurisy, and must have medical aid immediately.

I was taken on shore to a house, where I remained seven days, seeing my sick nurse only four times, he leaving me some soup.

The vessel left the harbor the next day after I went on shore, being driven out by the ice, with the loss of an anchor and part of the cable.

One day the old Frenchman who assisted me on the raft, came to see me. I told him how I had been neglected, and shaking his head, he said it was too bad, and that I should not stay there, and then left the room. After an hour or two he returned with a horse and sleigh, assisted me into it and drove a distance of five miles, to the house of a French lady, where I remained six weeks.

This kind lady, although an entire stranger, took a mother's care of me, at the same time knowing not that she should ever be compensated for it. Her many kindnesses I can never forget.

I inquired of the doctor if there was any money in the treasury at Delhouse. He said there was, and seemed astonished that I had not made application for it. He then wrote a certificate, stating that I had been left, at the advice of a physician, by the barque Asia, of Liverpool, and was still under his care. This being presented to the treasury brought me a guinea per weekduring the time I should remain under the care of a physician.

This fund is raised by reserving one shilling per month from the wages of all seamen that sail in British vessels. In every port of any considerable note a hospital is erected, in others a fund is deposited, to be expended in case of sickness of any of her majesty's subjects.

At the expiration of six weeks, I had so far recovered as to be able to walk a short distance to the neighbors in pleasant weather. My appetite was getting to be very good, and in fact, I considered myself almost well.

One day Mrs. Prosper, (my kind nurse's name) wishing to go to Delhouse, asked me to go with her. Wrapping myself up warmly, we started. On arriving at Delhouse, I went to the public house and remained while she was doing her business. On our return I got a little chilly. This with the fatigue of the ride (which proved too much for me) quite overcame me, and obliged me to take to bed again. I called for the doctor. A boy was sent for him, but returned, saying, that the doctor was also confined to his bed. I almost gave up in despair. There I was with a second and more severe attack of pleurisy, without medical aid. Mrs. Prosper aided by her sister (who with me were the only members of the family) did all in their power to assist me. The pain I experienced was almost beyond endurance. I found the roots of my finger nails were purple, the blood having settled there. The veins on my arms and hands were full almost to bursting. I called Mrs. Prosper, who, when she saw me, said to her sister, "he willnot live long." This I understood, although spoken in French, and it came to my ears like thunder. Thus to die, away from my childhood's home, with none save the friends of an hour to soothe me, in my last moments.

Then, as in every other time of danger, did I regret the step I had taken in leaving home, and resolved, that should my life be again spared, I would hasten to the home from which I had been absent nearly nine years, (to which I had pledged myself I wouldneverreturn) and forget the petty occurrence that forced me from those to whom I was bound by the nearest and dearest ties. I called for a small knife which was in my vest pocket, resolved to make a desperate effort to save myself from the death which seemed so near. After being raised up in bed, I bled myself in the left arm, and then taking the knife in my left hand opened a vein in my right arm. Such was the pressure of blood that it flew all over the room. The women seeing what I had done, left the house screeching at the top of their voices. I lay literally weltering in my own blood. The blood left my finger nails, the pains ceased, and I was perfectly easy, still conscious that my end was near.

To fully describe my situation, my pen is inadequate, and I must leave the reader to imagine for himself my situation, forsaken as I was by every person from whom assistance could be had, and bleeding profusely, with no means to check it.

So much was I reduced, that I was about falling into a sleep from which I never should have awoke. At this moment an old Scotchman (a quaker) who had occasionally visited me, aroused by the cries of the women,came into the room and asked what was the matter. I was too feeble to answer, but cast my eyes about the room, signifying look for yourself. He left the room, but soon returned with some pebbles which he took from a spring near the house, and bound them on my arms, thus checking the blood. He then went in search of Mrs. Prosper, whom he reprimanded for leaving me. (By the way she supposed me attempting suicide.)

I was removed on a sheet, and the bed which was wet through with blood was changed, and I was laid again upon it. There I remained nine days motionless and speechless and almost senseless and lifeless. The third day the doctor had so far recovered as to visit me. On hearing the situation I was in, he said the bleeding was the only thing that would have saved me. He told Mrs. Prosper that it was very doubtful about my getting up again.

Leaving some medicine, he left the house. Instead of giving me the medicine he left, Mrs. Prosper procured a dozen bottles of the best Port wine, to which she added one pound of Peruvian bark. I drank a wine-glass full night and morning. Several times during the day my mouth was washed or moistened with a sponge saturated with the wine.

One morning the sister of Mrs. Prosper came into the room, and with tears in her eyes, bade me an affectionate farewell, saying she was going away and should not see me again. Seeing her so affected at my situation, I could not refrain from shedding tears also. Seeing me shed tears, she considered it ominous of my recovery.

Each day I found I had additional strength, and withthe best care was, at the expiration of three weeks, enabled to sit up a few moments at a time.

I was obliged to keep the doctor along, for the moment he left me my pay from government was stopped.

Now for the first time since my sickness did I attempt to acquaint my friends with my situation. (I had written several times from Liverpool and other places, but received no answer.) To this I received no reply, and at the expiration of four weeks, wrote again. This also was unnoticed.

I then made up my mind that the circle which once welcomed me as the only son and brother, had resolved to disown me. This, to a repentant wanderer, occasioned many an hour of sadness.

I resolved that should I ever so far recover as to be able to find them, to cast myself upon them, begging them to receive back their son and brother, who had almost cursed the hour that separated him from them.

The doctor visited me every day, and at each visit left an additional supply of medicine. This he continued till about the first of March; at the expiration of which time I found myself in possession of drugs enough for a wholesale Apothecary establishment, the doctor, meanwhile, supposing I had pursued his directions.

I was at length left upon my own resources, for the doctor, pronouncing me free from his care, stopped my funds.

One neighbor, building a schooner offered me the job of making the sails, which busied me until the 1st of April, when I went on board a schooner bound to Quebec.

The capital of Canada and of British America, is situated on a bold promontory, at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. Charles, (or Little River,) about 350 miles from the sea. The basin or harbor of Quebec is sufficiently large to contain 75 or 100 sail of the line.

Accidentally becoming acquainted with an officer of the 15th Reg. of H. M. troops, then stationed there, I was enabled to visit parts, which to most visitors would be inaccessible. Quebec, the strongest town in America, and the strongest in the world, except Gibraltar, is built on a rock, which is partly of marble, and partly of slate, and is divided into Upper and Lower Towns.

At the time it was founded, 1608, it is said the tide washed the rock; since that time the river has sunk away so far as to leave a large spot of dry ground on which stands the Lower Town. The houses of both towns are of stone, and well built. The fortifications are extensive but irregular. The natural situation of the town renders its defence easy; the lofty, perpendicular rocks, on the southeast, constitute in themselves an insurmountable barrier. The river St. Charles, with its shallow water, and low flats of sand, and mud drained almost dry, by the ebbing of the tide, forms an obstacle difficult to be encountered in the erection of commanding works, or to the location of ships on the east and north; and even, should the water allow ships to come up, their guns could not injure in the least the works of the Upper Town, while they would subject themselves to great danger from the cannons and bombs of those elevated ramparts. The only accessible point is on the southwest from the plains of Abraham, where there is no barrier of rocks, no river, ravine, or marsh,or other natural impediments to an enemy's approach, which deficiency is supplied by walls and towers. The distance across from one river to the other is nearly a mile; the average diameter is three-fourths of a mile. A complete wall of hewn stone encircles the town, and is furnished with strong massy arches and gates, and with deep ditches. The walls vary much in height as well as in thickness; everywhere however, they are high enough to render escalade very difficult, and a breach almost hopeless. In the strongest part, next the plains, they are about fifty feet high, and about an equal thickness; even the lofty precipice of naked rock is surmounted with stone walls and cannon, and the highest points are covered with towers and distinct batteries; and generally the curtains of the walls are looped for musketry; and projecting bastions present their artillery to the assailants, raking the ditches immediately adjacent to the inner walls. This inner wall, as I have already remarked, is about fifty feet thick. Besides this, there is another wall and ditch, which both must be scaled before the inner or main wall can be approached. A party would be most dreadfully exposed while mounting this exterior wall. The avenue to the gate St. Louis, which opens to the plains, is bounded on both sides by high walls, which make several turns in zigzag, and at every turn cannon point directly to the approacher. In every possible direction, where the walls can be approached, large guns are ready to meet the assailants. The highest point of the rock is called Cape Diamond, and upon it is erected the famous citadel of Quebec. This is not, as one might suppose, a building or castle covered with a roof. It isopen, and differs only from the rest of the works by being more elevated, and therefore more commanding.

The highest part of the citadel is Brock's Battery, which is mounted with cannon pointed towards the plains. Within the walls are numerous magazines and stores of provisions of sufficient quantity to supply the town for a term of years. Piles of cannon balls every where meet the eye. Beyond the walls, on the plains, are the four martello Towers. They are solidly constructed of stone, about forty feet high, and about the same diameter at the base. These are mounted with guns pointing towards the plains, and effectually commanding it. The principal object of these is to prevent the enemy from obtaining possession of the high ground of the plains. The guns on these towers can only be made to bear one way towards the plains, so as to prevent, as in all other parts, the enemy, should they obtain possession of them, or any one part, from using their own arms against them. The side of the towers, towards the town, can be easily battered by the guns upon the walls. So, should an enemy get possession of the towers, they could be easily thrown from them.

The city was founded by the French in 1608. In 1629, the English reduced it with all Canada; but it was restored to the French in 1632. In 1711 it was again besieged by the English, but without success. It was again, in 1759, attacked and conquered, after a battle memorable for the death of Gen. Wolfe, who fell in the moment of victory. As he was expiring in the arms of his soldiers he heard the cry of "they fly." He raised his drooping head, and inquired "Who fly?" being answered "the French," he resigned himselfback into the arms of a lieutenant, exclaiming, with his last breath, "then I die in peace." By the peace of 1763 this was confirmed to the English. In 1775, the Americans attacked it under Gen. Montgomery, who was slain, and his army repulsed with great loss. Great improvements have been made within a few years, and are still making, which render it so strong in its defences, that any attempt with any force whatever to take it, would prove a fruitless undertaking.

The time allotted me (eight days) for staying at this place, was soon passed, giving me but little opportunity to examine minutely the many objects of wonder and curiosity.

Back to IndexNext