CHAPTER XIIILIGHTHOUSE, TRANSPORTER BRIDGE

Fig. 372

Fig. 373

Fig. 374

Fig. 375

Fig. 376

The Porch.For the platform of the porch cut a piece of wood 1¾ inches by 1¼ inches. Cut two sides, 2¾ inches by 1¼ inches. Glue and nail these to the platform. Cut two supports as shown in the plate, and glue these to the ends just underneath the door, so that when the porch rests on them, and the door isopen, the floor of the porch is level with the floor of the signal-box. Next cut the two outer posts, glue them into position as shown in the plate, and glue the platform of the porch on the four posts. The roof of the porch is cut from cardboard, with flanges to be glued to the end of the signal-box. The slope of the roof should be parallel to that of the roof of the signal-box.

Make a ladder as described in Chapter IX. Bevel the ends of the ladder as in Fig. 376 so that it can be glued into position. Glue two small posts on each side and glue two strips of cardboard to these and to the sides of the porch for railings.

Windows may be painted in the wooden sides, the rest is coloured to represent bricks; the window sashes are dark green or brown, and the roof grey.

Fig. 377

From this signal-box the signal shown in Fig. 371 can be worked in a very simple manner. Fig. 377 shows the arrangement. Through a hole,A, in the floor fits a wooden lever,B C. Pass the thread belonging to the signal through a small hole in the side of the box, then through a small screw-eye atO, and tie it to the end of the rod. When the lever,B, is pushed over the signal arm is lowered.

A small nail is put through the lever just aboveA, to act as a fulcrum. The sideF(Fig. 377) may have large windows which open to enable the child to insert his hand and push the lever. If the signal-post is set up some distance away from the signal-box, it may be found necessary to add another weight.

A Lighthouse(Plate XVI). This lighthouse is similar to one called the Gull Island Light in Newfoundland. It is a hexagonal column and is therefore somewhat easier to make than a circular structure.

Fig. 378

Fig. 379

The main column is 9 inches high, and each of the six faces is 2 inches. Cut out a piece of cardboard, of medium thickness, 9 inches by 12¼ inches (Fig. 378). Divide it into six parts 2 inches in width, leaving a flange ¼ inch wide at the end for fastening the column together. Make half cuts along the dotted lines. Cut out a door and windows, and two holes,GandH, ¼ inch square. Fold and gum together. The hexagonal column above the first platform is 2½ inches high, sides 2 inches; that above the second platform is 2 inches high, sides 1½ inches.

Before folding and gumming the top column, or lantern, together, windows must be cut out. It is easier to cut the windows out completely and gum the bars behind the openings. A door is cut just above the first platform as shown in the plate. The top of the lantern is a hexagonal pyramid 1½ inches high, edges 2 inches. To make this, the length of one of the sloping edges (asa' d'in Fig. 380) must be found.

Fig. 380

Fig. 381

Draw a linea b(Fig. 381) 2 inches long. This is one edge of the hexagonal base. On it make an equilateral trianglea c b. This is the same as trianglea' c' b'in Fig. 380. Atc(Fig. 381) drawc dat right angles toa c; makec dequal to the height of the pyramid—namely, 1½ inches; joina d; this is the length of one of the sloping edges (a' d'in Fig. 380). With radiusa ddescribe a circle (Fig. 379). Mark along its circumference the distancea b, six times; joinatob,btoc, etc., and join each point to the centre. Cut off the shaded portions, leaving a flange for fastening, and make half-cuts along the dotted lines. Bend and gum together.

The first platform shown in the plate is a circle of cardboard or wood, radius 3 inches. Holes are made round the edge.

To this the upper column is fastened by paper hinges, unless the columns have been provided with flanges at top and bottom. Glue match sticks or pieces of cane, about 1 inch in length, into the holes in the platform for railings, round which black thread may be tied. Now fasten the whole to the main column so that the sides coincide.

In the same way the lantern is fastened to the upper platform and the latter to the upper column, after similar railings have been made round the upper platform. Lastly the pyramidal top is fixed on the lantern, by either paper hinges or flanges. Now cut a piece of stripwood, ¼ inch by ¼ inch, of the right length, so that it passes through the holesGandHin the lower column and projects about 1/8 inch over the doorway; into this projecting end screw a small screw-eye, pass a piece of string through it and bring the ends inside the door. This is the pulley by means of which goods are hauled up from the boat into the lighthouse. A ladder can be made of matches (as described in Chapter IX); two wire hooks are inserted at the ends, and it is hung to the doorway.

The lighthouse can be coloured grey and fastened to a piece of cardboard painted blue.

Plate XVIA LIGHTHOUSE

A Transporter Bridge.The supports for this bridge,AandB(Fig. 382), are two small wooden Bovril boxes (those containing one dozen one-ounce tins); their bottoms have been knocked out and they are mounted on wooden supports or on two smaller boxes of about the same width.

Fig. 382

Take two lengths of stripwood,C,D, 2' × ½" × ¼"; on to each of these glue and nail a similar length of stripwood, ¼ inch by ¼ inch (Fig. 383). Next the overhead trolley should be made (Fig. 384). The axlesGandHare about 3½" × ¼" × ¼". The wheels are made of wood and can be cut from an old broom handle. Before these are put on, the two piecesEandF, which are 3½" × ¼" × ¼", are glued toGandH.CandDare placed so that the trolley runs easily along their ledges, the distance between them is measured and two pieces of stripwood (Jin Fig. 383) are cut, by means of whichCandDare fastened together. This frame can rest onAandB. There is no need to fasten it permanently.

To each end ofHandG, very small screw-eyes are screwed,Kin Fig. 383, to which the strings or chains which support the car are attached—also two screw-eyes are screwed in atHandG.

Fig. 385 shows part of the car and gives the necessary measurements. SideRis made of stripwood, ¼ inch by ¼ inch. The gates at each end are made of strips of cardboard. Four screw-eyes are placed in the corner posts for hanging the car to trolley (see Fig. 382). Pieces of thread are tied to the screw-eyes atHandG,and pass through screw-eyes in the supports (TandUin Fig. 382). Two windlasses can be made to stand onMandL, similar to the winding gear described in making the crane (Chapter V), by means of which the car can be drawn backward and forward. The bridge may stand across a piece of cardboard painted to represent a river.

Fig. 383

Fig. 384

Fig. 385

For the toys described hitherto, the chisel has hardly been required, but to carve boats from a solid block of wood it becomes somewhat of a necessity, the pen-knife being but a poor substitute. The use of the chisel has been postponed owing to the dangers which attend its use. However, when children have become accustomed to handle tools properly and to respect them, they are no more likely to cut their hands with a chisel than with a knife when sharpening pencils or peeling potatoes.

The following tools will be found useful in making exact models of boats, hollowing them out, etc.:

(1) A ½-inch or ¾-inch chisel. This is a good one to start with.

(2) A smaller chisel about ¼ inch wide.

(3) A gouge. A 3/8 inch and a 5/8 inch gouge answer most purposes. This is an indispensable tool when hollowing out a boat.

(4) A spoke-shave. This is used to smooth a curved surface after it has been roughly cut with a chisel or knife. It is not really necessary, as its work may be done with sand-paper or a file. However it is not expensive, and it leaves the wood with a 'clean' surface much superior to that obtained with sand-paper.

(5) A vice.

The best wood for making the following boats isyellow dealorAmerican white-wood. This, though not expensive, must be bought. One does not often find a piece of waste wood suitable for boat-making.

A very simple boat can be made in the following way. Procure a block of wood about 7" × 1½" × 2". On the top surface of the block draw a plan of the boat as in Fig. 387; on the bottom surface draw the plan shown in Fig. 388. Take care not to make the keel too narrow, especially in first attempts at boat-making. The keel of this boat may be quite ¼ inch thick. See that it is really in the middle.

Fig. 386

Fig. 387

Fig. 388

Fig. 389

Fig. 390

Mark on both sides of the boat the lines shown in elevation, Fig. 386. Mark lines showing the stern elevation as in Fig. 389, at the other end the stern, as in Fig. 390.

Now saw away as much surplus wood as possible. It is wellto begin by sawing along lines a b andc din Fig. 387, to roughly shape out bow. If a very curved bow is desired, saw off the cornere f g(Fig. 386). To make the keel, saw along linesa handc k, about ¼ inch deep (Fig. 388), at the stern end saw down toMandN. Now carefully round and model the sides and keel with gouge, chisel, spoke-shave and file, or simply with chisel and file.

Before finishing off with sand-paper or spoke-shave, the boat should be tried in the water, it will probably lean to one side; cut off a little wood from this side and try again. (Be careful to dry your tools if they get wet.) When the boat is properly balanced, nail a strip of lead along the keel.

A hole may be bored on the deck for a mast.

To make the Rudder.Saw a piece of wood out about 1 inch by 2¼ inches (wood should be about ¼ inch thick). Draw a rudder on it as in Fig. 391, cut out this shape with saw and file. Round the top as atCfor the handle. Make holes with a fine bradawl and insert two pieces of bent wire ataandb. To put them in it is best to hold them with a pair of pincers. Ordinary pins with their heads cut off do just as well as wire. Make two wire loops and fix them in the stern of the boat (PandQin Fig. 386), that the rudder may hook on to these, care must be taken that the eyes are exactly opposite the hooks. To make the tiller, drill a hole in a piece of wood, as in Fig. 392, and file it large enough to fit tightly round the top of the rudder, then work the tiller to shape.

Fig. 391

Fig. 392

This boat can be hollowed out with the gouge. First draw lineR R R Rround the boat (Fig. 387) to give the thickness of side. Before starting on the actual boat, it is as well for the amateur to practise cutting a few hollows. With satin walnut, pine, American white-wood, gouging is not a difficult matter. When the boat is being gouged out it should if possible be placed in a vice. (Always put a piece of thin wood between the jaws of the vice and the article you wish to hold to prevent marks.) Another way of hollowing the boat is to begin boring centre-bit holes as close together as possible, being careful not to bore too deep,then gouge out as much wood as you safely can, finish with file and sand-paper. When the boat is hollowed out, seats can be made for it. These should be cut the exact length of middle of boat, bevelled at the ends, and fitted into the boat by forcing them into position.

Fig. 393

Fig. 394

Fig. 395

Figs. 393, 394, 395 show elevation and plans of a common type of boat. Saw off triangular pieces of wood to form the bow, cut out the stern with the tenon saw and chisel. Model the sides and keel with gouge, chisel and file as before. To put a rudder on this boat, notice that a hole must be bored through the deck for the rudder to pass through. There is no need in a boat like this, or indeed in any boat (when practice has been attained), to saw out the keel, the gouge and chisel are sufficient, but the sawing sometimes helps the beginner.

Fig. 396

Fig. 397

A Schooner(Plate IV). On a suitable piece of wood (a square prism, length 3½½ times width) draw a linea a(Fig. 396) on the surface through the middle from end to end. Then draw a lineacross the middleb b, and divide the surface in three by linesc candd d. Pencil out the deck as in Fig. 396. Now here is a piece of advice that it is well to follow in all boat-making. To mark off the deck make a cardboard template the shape and size of one half, taken from the middle line,a a. Lay the template on one half of the piece of wood and pencil round the edge. Then turn the template over on the other side and pencil round the edge again. In this way the shape of the deck is more accurate and both sides are symmetrical, which is very important if the boat is to float upright in the water. Now on the sides draw the elevation as in Fig. 397.

Cardboard templates will also be found useful in getting the cross-sections correct.

Now saw and file away the stern,D, and the bow,E, and chisel away the sides and keel as described before. Fig. 398 shows the appearance of the stern.

Having chiselled and filed the outside of the hull to correct shape and exactly equal on both sides, gouge out the inside as described before. Next make the deck from deal about 1/8 inch thick, cutting it the exact size of the outline in Fig. 396. Before fastening the deck, bore a hole atAfor the rudder (a corresponding hole being bored in the hull), and holes atBandCfor masts (with corresponding holes, not more than ¼ inch deep, in the hull). If need be (in large models) the under part of the deck where holes come can be strengthened by pieces of wood nailed across. With a hard pencil draw lines along the deck to give the appearance of boards.

A hole for a hatch-way may be cut out with a fret-saw. The hatch-way itself for a large boat can be made of pieces of wood nailed together.

Now fix the deck on to the top of the hull with small nails.

Another way of fixing the deck is to make it just large enough to fit inside the hull, leaving an edge or bulwark all round, ¼ inch to ½ inch in depth.

The longer mast goes into holeB. The total length of the schooner is about 1¼ times the height of the mast above the deck. The shorter mast goes into holeCand is very little longer than half the boat. The masts must fit firmly into the holes in the deck and hull.

To ballast the boat, nail a piece of lead along the keel. If too large a piece is used at first, it can easily be reduced.

The rudderFis cut out and fixed as already described.

Hin Fig. 396 shows where the end of the bowsprit comes.

Fig. 398

Fig. 399A. Stay foresail. B. Gaff foresail. C. Mainsail.

Fig. 399 shows a drawing of the masts and sails for a schooner. The gaffs,a bandc d, and the corresponding booms, are fastened to the masts by wire loops. Lawn or Indian muslin make good sails. It is well to wash the material before using it.

TheFret-sawis a delightful tool, and very useful to the toy-maker. It can be used for making wheels and the various jointed and mechanical toys described in the following chapters.

In dealing with the fret-saw we have to consider (1) the saw-blades and (2) the frame in which they are held. The saw-blades are about five inches in length and are made of delicate steel wire with correspondingly fine teeth. They are very cheap, being commonly sold at about three halfpence to threepence a dozen, and even less when purchased by the gross. They are supplied in ten different grades, numbered from 00 to 8, proceeding from fine to coarse. For the toys described in this book, Nos. 1, 2 and 3 will be found most suitable. To preserve the saw-blades from rust, keep them in a wood or metal case. Upon the proper tension of the saw-blade depends its action. To keep it taut, a number of frames have been designed, the most practical being one made of steel and varying in size from 12 inches to 18 inches measuring from the saw-blade to the back of the frame. The handle is of wood. The 12-inch size is the most suitable for children.

Cheap frames can be obtained for sixpence halfpenny (smaller ones even for fourpence). In the cheaper kinds the necessary tension is obtained by drawing the arms slightly towards each other when clamping the blade. The spring of the steel will then keep the blade sufficiently taut. In the better-class frames (price from two shillings upward) the tension is secured by the action of a lever. Notice that the saws must be inserted with the teeth pointing downward.

Holding and managing the Saw-frame.The hand saw-frame requires all the steadiness possible; the bend of the frame should rest along the forearm, and against the shoulder if the frame bea long one, or under the shoulder if a short one. This prevents the frame from swinging round.

The saw-blade will describe the arc of a circle as it passes through the wood, and this dip is reduced to the minimum by makingshort strokesinstead of long ones. This is important to remember. The amateur is sure to break a few saw-blades at first, they are so fragile, indeed even in the hands of an expert they have a precarious hold on life and can only be expected to last a certain time. Fortunately they are cheap.

The saw-blade must not be pressed on into the wood too quickly; the wood is held to the table with the fingers, and every part of the line to be cut is moved in due succession against the cutting edge of the blade. Excessive energy will often cause the blade to stick fast in the wood; in this case the blade must be eased by gently working it up and down so that it does not cut but frees itself. This method can be adopted when turning a sharp corner; work the saw up and down (without cutting) until the blade points in the right direction.

Very often the locking of the blade in the wood is due to gummy or heavy wood, or to a twist in the saw-blade; this latter cause can be prevented by the exercise of care in fixing the saw in the frame.

Children should have the cheaper frames to practise with; however they soon learn to manage them and in due course find out that a saw-blade is really not so delicate as it looks. In cutting out animals, etc., leave a piece of surplus wood round the frailer parts as long as possible so that one has something to hold without fear of breakage.

When an interior space has to be cut out (e.g.when cutting away interior portions of wheels to make the spokes) a hole must be made by means of the Archimedean drill to admit the saw; the upper end of the saw is released from its clamp, passed through the hole, and again fixed in position. The hole in all cases should be bored as near as possible to a corner or point, as these are convenient starting-places. A medium-sized drill point rather than fine points should be used wherever space permits. Fine points are apt to break. The drill stock must be held quite vertical and revolved both when the point is entering the wood and whenit is being withdrawn. No pressure is required on the drill beyond its own weight.

In making the various jointed animals, etc., in the following chapters bifurcated nickel rivets are used, small-gauge. The following are useful sizes:—

Sizes No. 14 6/16, 8/16, 10/16. (These are useful for jointed animals.)

Sizes No. 11 12/16, 14/16, 16/16. (These are used for the crane, etc.)

These rivets can be bought in boxes of assorted sizes.

Fig. 400

Fig. 401

Figs. 400 and 401 show how a jointed animal is riveted together. When hammering the rivet open, its head should be placed on a piece of metal (the clamp will do). Fig. 401 shows the method of opening the rivet.Arepresents the table,Bthe clamp,Cthe head of the rabbit and its ears,D, the rivet.

Little Gymnast.First the little gymnast must be drawn and cut out. He can be made of cardboard of medium thickness and paper-fasteners (Size 00) or better of three-ply wood and bifurcated nickel rivets (Size No. 14-8/16).

First draw the body,A, Fig. 402, 2½ inches long. (The measurements given are important, for unless the limbs are in proportion the figure will not work properly.) Make two holes with the drill, if wood is being used, as in Fig. 402.

Fig. 402

The arms,B, are 2¼ inches long, the hands must be large enough to contain holes to carry a wooden knitting needle (1/8 inch in diameter). The upper part of leg,C, is 1½ inches in length; the lower part,D, 1½ inches. Make holes in these parts as in the figure. Take care that the holes are large enough to hold the rivet or paper-fasteners loosely, so that the limbs swing about easily.

Now fasten all these parts together. (For directions how to hammer the rivets see the previous chapter.)

Paint the figure in water colours if it is made of cardboard, if it is made of wood it may be left unpainted, or painted in oil colours.

Fig. 403

Fig. 404

Fig. 405

Fig. 406

Fig. 407

Push a wooden knitting needle (about 1/8 inch in diameter) through the holes in the hands, see that it fits tightly, add a little glue if there is any danger of the needle slipping round inside the holes.

Two pieces of stripwood,E, are next sawn about 11" × ¼" × ½". These posts must have holes drilled in them near the top for the knitting needle to pass through, and revolve freely. The posts are nailed and glued to a base, the size of which will depend upon the length of the bar which the gymnast turns upon.

Two or three gymnasts look well swinging together, or a gymnast, a monkey and a clown. In this case 12" × 6" × ¼" makes a good stand. The posts are supported by triangular supports. On turning the knitting needle the little figure will revolve in a life-like manner, and perform many of the professional exercises of the horizontal bar. The actions are made more realistic if the man's head is weighted with a piece of lead, so as to make his head more nearly the same weight as his body.

The Dancing Clown.Draw on cardboard or three-ply wood and cut out the head and body of the clown as in Fig. 403. Colour it, and cut out another piece exactly the same to represent the back of the clown. Draw and cut out two arms as in Fig. 404, two legs as in Fig. 405. Cut out two small discs of lead, and glue them behind the balls in his hands; glue little pieces of lead behind his boots. His arms and legs are fastened together by thread, as in Fig. 406. The back part of the body hides the strings.

This clown can be hung inside a box, and the strings passed through a hole (directly underneath the clown) in another box upon which he can then be made to dance, as in Fig. 407. The figure works best if properly balanced; see that the arms and legs are equal in size and weight.

Rocking Horses and Elephants.The simplest way of making a rocking horse is shown in Fig. 408. Two rockers,A B C, are cut out of cardboard (medium thickness). Next two horses,D, are drawn on cartridge paper, the distance between the fore and hind feet corresponding to the distanceA Cin the rockers. The horses are coloured and cut out, and their heads and tails gummed together. The four legs are then fastened with paper-fasteners (or with gum) to the ends of the two rockers. A wooden rocking horse is made in the following way. The two rockers,A BandC D,are cut out of three-ply wood with a fret-saw. The arc of a circle of 4 inches to 4½ inches radius is a good size; width of rocker,H K(Fig. 409), ¾ inch.

Three pieces of stripwood ¼ inch by ¼ inch are sawn, length 3¼ inches,E,FandG. Pencil-marks must be made on the two rockers to show where these strips are to go, one in the middle, the other two at the ends. Before fastening them on, a slit is sawn in the middle of each end-piece, as atEandG.

Fig. 408

Fig. 409

Fig. 410

StripsE,FandGare glued and nailed to one rocker, then this rocker can be laid on its side, and the second rocker glued to the upstanding strips. There is no need to nail the second rocker; indeed, if the ends of the strips are very evenly cut, there is no need for nailing at all. The horse (Fig. 410) can be cut out of cardboard and have one front leg and one back leg fitted into the slits. Cardboard of medium thickness will just fit a saw-cut and no gluing is needed. If the horse is cut out of fret-wood or three-plywood (1/8 inch thick) the saw-cuts must be enlarged with a file and the feet glued in.

Instead of horses, donkeys, tigers, lions, etc., can be fixed on rockers as just described.

The rockers in Fig. 409 can also be built up of cardboard.

A Rocking Elephant.On a piece of cardboard draw a circle 1¼ inches in radius; on this draw an elephant as in Fig. 411. Colour the ball red and the elephant grey (both sides must be coloured) and cut out. Cut out a piece of cartridge paper (Fig. 412), length equal to half the circumference of the circle in Fig. 411, width, 1½ inches. Fold in half alongD E, cut outD B C E, as in diagram, the shaded portions being cut away. GumB D C Eto discHas in Fig. 411, so thatD F E Gforms a rocker; make a similar rocker for the other side. Two pieces of lead (Ain Fig. 411) are cut out and glued on each side of the disc at the bottom, as in the figure. The lead must have paper suitably coloured pasted over it. The elephant will swing up and down at the slightest touch. Instead of an elephant a clown can be drawn on the ball.

Fig. 413 shows an elephant rolling on his back. This toy can be made in the same way as the first elephant. A circle (1¼ inches radius) is drawn first, and the elephant drawn in the circle. These elephants can be cut with the fret-saw from satin walnut (¼ inch thick). In this case the lead on each side must almost reach the diameter, as shown in Fig. 413. Another disc of wood (1¼ inch radius) must be fret-sawed out of the satin walnut, sawn in two, and the halves glued one on each side of the lead, to make a base wide enough for the toy to rock upon without upsetting. No lead will then show, and it will look like a wooden toy. If these toys are cut out of thin wood, 1/8 inch thick, they still require at least twice as much lead as the cardboard toy.

The elephant may also be drawn balancing a ball instead of a clown.

Children will delight in making these toys from cardboard, paper and lead for a toy circus.

Fig. 414 shows a swan drawn in a circle; the shaded part represents the paper rocker on one side. This model requires no lead. A duck can be made in the same way.

Fig. 415 shows a design for elephants on a see-saw. The elephants must be the same size as far as possible.

Fig. 411

Fig. 412

Fig. 413

Fig. 414

Fig. 415

Fig. 416, "The Washing Day," shows a pattern that will please little English toy-makers. It can be cut from wood with the fret-saw, or with scissors from cardboard of medium thickness.

Fig. 416

Fig. 417

To make the Design.First cut two lengths of three-ply wood or cardboard, ½ inch by 8 inches,A BandC D.

Next draw on wood or cardboard, and cut out, the two little washer-women (they are about 4½ inches high). They look more effective if painted.

These are fastened to the strips of cardboard by means of paper-fasteners (Size 000; one gross sixpence); the holes for the fasteners are about 1¼ inches from the ends. The holes in the little washer-women are exactly one above the other, so that when the paper-fasteners are in andA Bis exactly aboveC D, the figures are upright.

A washing tub,E, is cut out of cartridge paper (top of tub, 3 inches, bottom 1¾ inches); this can be painted brown or green and have a white rim round the top to represent soap-suds. This tub is gummed toC D, exactly between the two little washers. If the part ofA Bthat comes behind the tub is cut away as in diagram the figures will work better.

When the strips of cardboard are moved backward and forward the figures put their clothes in the tub and take them out again. The toy works best if a little space is left betweenA BandC D, as in Fig. 417. If it is cut out of fret-wood the figures are fastened by rivets, as explained in Chapter XV.

Fig. 417 shows two ducks eating out of the same bucket; strips of cardboard,A BandC D, are the same size as those in Fig. 416. The bucket is cut out of cardboard and gummed toC D.

The sailors in Fig. 418 are made in the same way, holes are made in their hands, through which yarn is passed (the thicker the yarn the more like rope it is) or oars can be cut out of cardboard and fitted in the holes in their hands, when they will appear to row.

Fig. 419 shows a man driving a donkey. It is made of cardboard, except the whip,A, which is thread tied into a hole in the cardboard atC. The whip will work better if a little piece of lead or something heavy is tied at the end of the thread. The reins,B, are of thread or yarn, and pass through holes in the donkey's mouth and in the man's hand.

Two fishermen can be made in the same way, the whip easily becomes a fishing-rod and a lead fish can be attached to the end of the line.

In the case of the donkey-driver and the fishermen the stripsof cardboard should be longer than shown in the figure, to leave room for holding. The strip for the donkey-driver should be about 9 inches, the fishermen require at least 12 inches if their lines are not to get entangled.

Fig. 418

Fig. 419

Children will readily think of other designs for this simple but interesting toy.

A Monkey-up-a-stick is a very easy toy to make. First cut out a cardboard or wooden monkey as in Fig. 420. See that the legs and arms turn freely on paper-fasteners,AandB. Paint the monkey grey or brown. With a pin make holes,CandD, in the feet and hands. Next saw two lengths of stripwood, one 1´ × ¼" × ¼", the other almost twice as long. Drill a hole near one end of each of these sticks. Pass a pin or piece of wire through the holes in the monkey's feet and the hole in the shorter stick; bend down the pin on each side to keep the feet from slipping off. (The point of the pin should be cut off with pliers.) In the same way fasten the monkey's hands to the longer stick. See that the limbs (note that they come one on each side of the stick) revolve freely on the pins or wire. The two sticks may be kept together by pieces of elastic; this however rather prevents the one stick from moving freely up and down the other. It is better first to file the sticks (or one of the sticks) round or to use dowel rods. These round rods can then be kept together by cardboard or wooden discs. The disc must have a hole in the middle large enough for the rod to move freely up and down in it. The thicker the piece of wood or cardboard the better. The hole must be made in the wood with a brace and bit (a bradawl will make the hole in cardboard, and it can be filed to the right size with a round file). The longer rod,A, Fig. 421, goes through the hole; the bottom of the shorter rod,B, is glued and nailed to the disc.

By moving the discCup and down the monkey performs its usual antics at the top of the stick.

The monkey, or a clown if preferred, looks very effective cut out of three-ply wood and riveted together.

For a small model wooden meat skewers may be used as sticks.Other suggestions forCin Fig. 421 are: a reel (though rod B when glued to a reel tends to break off); half a cork.

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