CHAPTER XISIMPLE WOODWORK

Fig. 185

Fig. 186

Fig. 187

Fig. 188

Fig. 189

Fig. 190

Fig. 191

This toy could also be made of three-ply wood with a fret-saw. The sides and bottom would then have to be cut in three separate pieces.

Children as young as seven can begin woodwork, but the little strength they possess for sawing makes it necessary to give them prepared wood, called stripwood. There is no need, however, to begin woodwork in too great a hurry, so many are the toys which the children can make with match-boxes, corks, paper and files, and the more familiar the child gets with his ruler and with simple measurements, the better able he is to saw to advantage. Woodwork may well be postponed to the age of eight or nine, then the child can begin to measure accurately and be introduced by degrees to the mysteries of set-squares, try-squares and T-squares.

Fig. 192

The following tools are necessary when beginning easy woodwork with children from seven to ten years of age; other tools, described in Part II, can be added as the children advance in age and in ambition:

1. Bench-hooks, against which children can press their strips of wood and hold them firmly. A simple one is shown in Fig. 192.Cis a piece of hard wood about 8 inches square,Ais a strip of hard wood against which the child can hold her wood,Bis a strip of wood that presses against the table.

2. Try-squares.

3. A brass-back saw with a blade about 6 inches long.

4. A light hammer.

5. Files—these are very cheap. Some must be round; the others should be 8-inch files, ½ cut (one safe edge).

6. Bradawls (or meat skewers).

7. A pair of pincers.

Other materials required will be liquid glue, sand-paper, nails—useful ones are ¾ and ½ veneer pins.

With regard to wood, children as young as seven should be given prepared lengths (schools are commonly supplied with the so-called satin walnut, machine-planed, see next chapter), from which they can saw portions for making simple objects, such as picture frames, ladders, gates, objects which consist of different lengths of wood nailed across each other.

A word of advice is necessary with regard to sand-paper; this varies in coarseness from No. 00 to No. 3, every sheet being stamped. It should never be used until all work with edged tools is finished, as the particles of sand left on the surface dull an edged tool. When using sand-paper on a flat surface it should be wrapped round a rectangular block of wood. All corners should be left as sharp as they are left by the edged tools and rarely sand-papered. Lastly, always sand-paper with the grain.

The bradawl varies in size or diameter of the steel shaft from 1/16 inch to 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch. The legitimate purpose of the bradawl is to bore holes in wood so as to ensure the passage of a nail or screw in the right direction, and to facilitate its entrance into the wood.

Three words of advice might be remembered by teachers beginning woodwork:

(1) Don't begin it too soon; don't begin woodwork with children of seven and eight because others do; wait until they are really ready, until they have the necessary strength. There is plenty for them to do in measuring and cutting out paper toys and toys of thin cardboard; they will enjoy the woodwork the more when it comes.

(2) Simple doll's furniture, chairs and tables, are not easy for the child to make.

(3) Leave behind as soon as possible prepared stripwood and its everlasting gates, railings, bridges, or picture frames.

Suggestions for Teachers who are beginning Woodwork with their Forms.Let the children measure out and cut a square of wood to support the merry-go-round, make the stand for the swinging boats and great wheel (Chapter XIV). Make the Noah's Ark and dog kennel described in Chapter X.

A very simple toy for beginners is aFlat-bottomed Boat. A flat, oblong piece of wood is marked out as in Fig. 193, the bow and stern are cut as indicated; the three dots down the centralline indicate the position of the masts. These can be made of wooden meat skewers or of pieces of strip wood (¼" × ¼") rounded toward the top.

Fig. 193

Nails are driven through the bottom of the boat so that they project about half an inch above the surface; on to these points the masts are hammered, having first had a little glue applied to the base; nails are hammered carefully round the sides for railings, with cotton intertwined. Funnels of red paper, little squares of wood for cabins, paper or cardboard lifebuoys and anchors, a captain's bridge, etc., may be added (see Fig. 194).

Fig. 194

Children delight in tying thread from mast to mast (a ridge must be filed round the tops of the masts to keep the cotton from slipping down) and in decorating this thread with flags.

Instead of nails, stripwood (¼" × ¼") may be glued or nailed along the sides, and a piece of wood nailed over the bow (Fig. 195). These boats will float on water if they are not too heavily laden with cabins, etc. Fig. 196 shows a fishing-boat complete.

Fig. 195

A reel will be found very useful as an anvil when driving the nails through the bottom of the boat to hold the masts. The child should hold his piece of wood—through which he is driving a nail—in such a position that when the point comes through the wood, the nail makes its passage down the hole in the middle of the reel. As soon as the point has been driven through to a certain distance, the child can lift up his wood and examine—and if need be correct—the direction of the nail before fixing on the mast.

Fig. 196

Hammering must be done with the hammer held with the hand well back from the head, and each blow struck so that the flat face of the hammer falls exactly upon the head of the nail. Gentle but firm blows are necessary; heavy blows are likely to bend the nails. All bent nails should be at once drawn out.

Nails.The nails used in the making of the toys described in the following chapters are made of very fine wire, with fine points. The wire commonly used for such nails is 17 gauge, but a finer gauge (21) is better for light woodwork, for it does not split the wood so easily. The nails vary in length from ¼ inch to 2 inches, increasing by eighths of an inch. The most useful sizes are veneer pins ½ inch in length and ¾ inch in length.

Panel pins have small heads.

Liquid Glue.Though this is dearer than ordinary glue (it can be obtained in small bottles, price 4-1/2d), it is always ready for use, and is not affected by exposure to the air, except that it thickens and hardens from evaporation. If spread thinly over the wood it holds the various pieces firmly together. When fastening different pieces of wood together it is well, whenever possible, both to glue and nail them.

Wood.(1)Satin walnutis one of the easiest woods to work, and is adapted for a wide range of work, but it is liable to warp and twist badly unless properly seasoned.

For handwork in school, and for toy-making generally, satin walnut machine-planed can be had in the following useful sizes. They are supplied in lengths of 2 feet and are done up in bundles of 100.

(a) 2' × ¼" × ¼" about 2s. 9d. per bundle.(b) 2' × ¼" × ½" " 3s. " "(c) 2' × ½" × ½" " 3s. 3d. " "(d) 2' × ¼" × 1" " 4s. " "2' × ¼" × 4" " 9s. " "

In the toys described in the following chapters satin walnut lengths (a), (b), (c), and (d) are referred to simply as stripwood.

(2)Round dowel rodsin beech or birch 3/16 inch to 7/8 inch diameterand 36 inches long are useful for axles and for the perches for the swinging animals, etc. These dowel rods cost 3s. to 10s. per 100. Dowels are made by planing up a strip square in section, then planing off the corners, and finally the resulting eight corners. They are now nearly round, and can be made quite so by hammering them through a hole in a piece of hard wood or metal.

(3)Sawn laths such as builders useare perhaps the cheapest material that it is possible to get. These can be got from builders' and timber-merchants' yards at a cost of about 9d. to 1s. per bundle of 100. Each lath is 3' 6" × 1" × 3/16".

(4) "Three-ply" is composed of three thin layers of wood glued together under pressure. The grain of the centre layer is laid at right angles to that of the other two, so as to give additional strength and to avoid warping. "Three-ply" will not split easily and should be used for the jointed animals and swinging animals described in Chapter XX.

Ply-wood is usually sold in thicknesses varying from 1/8 inch to ¼ inch. Price of three-ply boards in large squares for cutting up:

1/8 in. thick, 47" × 38", 3/4d. per sq. foot.3/16 " 53" × 34", 1d. " "¼ " 72" × 48", 1-3/4d. " "

Match Stales.These are sometimes useful in toy-making, though ordinary matches that have been used generally serve as well. Match stales may be obtained from Messrs Bryant & May's, Fairfield Works, Bow, E., at 1s. per bundle (about 1500 to the bundle). These are supplied without brimstone, 4-5/8 inches long, and thicker than the matches in common use.

Most of the wood so far described is prepared wood (with the exception of builders' laths), and is ready for use at once; it has merely to be sawn to the right length or the right size. But it is well to get the children away as soon as possible from dependence upon this "prepared material" and to encourage them to use "waste material."

If there is a kitchen or tuck shop in connexion with the school this will supply the children with useful wooden and cardboard boxes of various sizes. The wooden boxes in which Fry's,Cadbury's, etc., chocolates are packed are most useful in toy-making. The wood is easy to saw and fairly free from knots.

If no school kitchen or tuck shop exists a grocer, for a few pence, will supply a delightful collection of wooden boxes, sweet-boxes, soap-boxes, boxes that have contained bovril, etc. The greater part of every wooden toy in this book has been made from materials such as these.

To avoid expense one should begin at once to collect useful boxes; this adds to the enjoyment of toy-making. A tobacconist will often give away his cigar-boxes, the wood of which is a pretty brown colour and very useful. Unfortunately, it is sometimes so thin that it is very liable to split. It is difficult, too, to get the paper off some boxes, and the children who resort to washing, scrubbing, and sometimes boiling (!) the wood do not improve it. However, all waste wood has to be prepared in some way; generally the file and sand-paper will make it ready for use.

Other materials that are invaluable to the toy-maker and should be carefully preserved are old broom handles, reels, and the round rods of various sizes that one often comes across.

Lead plays an important part in many toys; sheet lead can be bought in pennyworths; lead buttons can also be bought. Chains are also useful (for example, in Part II, in the drawbridge, the siege tower, etc.), so toy watch chains or any odd pieces should be preserved, as these chains look more effective than those made of wire. Very good chain can be bought from an ironmonger's—price, 3d. a yard.

I.Gluing.Generally when pieces of wood are fastened together, both glue and nails should be used; the glue prevents the wood from revolving on the nails, and the nails hold when sometimes a sudden jar will cause pieces of wood that are glued to separate. However, if glueing be well done, it will serve well without nailing, and it is often convenient to use glue only when making small toys or when adding a piece of wood to a delicate toy that will not stand the shock of the hammer. To apply glue so that the pieces of wood that it fastens shall hold together permanently, the following points should be borne in mind:

(1) The layer of glue should be so thin that the seam will scarcely be seen.

(2) The glue must be perfectly free from sawdust, shavings, etc., and so must the wood.

(3) Glue must be evenly and thinly applied toboththe surfaces that are to be joined.

(4) The surfaces to be joined must be perfectly smooth.

(5) Time must be given for the glue to dry. Children often want to touch too soon.

II.Nailing.Generally in nailing holes should first be made for the nail with a fine bradawl or drill. The holes for the nails should be made just large enough to allow them to stand upright in them without being held. The points or heads of nails that project should always be filed away.

III.Sand-papering.A holder for sand-paper should be used, as by simply holding the sheet in the fingers it is impossible to retain the perfect flatness of the surface. A holder can be bought for twopence. Sand-paper should always be applied with a very light pressure, lest it wear away the surface unequally.

IV.Filing.Filing should be resorted to as little as possible.Avoid filing the sawn edges.Children often saw carelessly, relyingon the file to remedy defects. The file, however, is useful when cutting discs, to make the circle perfect. Round files are very useful in finishing off round holes and in enlarging them when required. The sharp edges of triangular files can be used for making notches, such as those in the deck-chair (Part II, Chapter III).

V.The Making of Wheels.The child toy-maker often finds wheels somewhat of a problem. There are, however, several ways of making or getting them.

Fig. 197

(1) Small reels make good wheels for trams, motor-cars or trains. They require no sawing. Fig. 197 shows how they are fastened on.Ais a block of wood glued and nailed on to the axle,B C, which is made of stripwood, ¼ × ¼ inch, or ½ × ¼ inch; the ends,F BandG C, are rounded so that the reels can revolve easily on them. The bottom of the car is glued to the block. The reels can be placed quite under the bottom of the car, as in diagram, or they can project. For a train the wheels should be placed underneath.

(2) Large reels may be sawn into several thicknesses. These make excellent wheels, but are very difficult to saw even with a mitre block. It is hard to hold them steady and there is some danger of the children sawing their fingers.

(3) Broom handles, round rods, etc., are easily sawn up and make excellent wheels. Holes have to be drilled through them and enlarged with round file for the axle, or a hole the right size can be made at once with the brace and bit. (For use of which see Part II.)

(4) Wheels can be made with the brace and centre-bit. The way for the centre-bit must be prepared by using a small-sized pin-bit. The wood must be laid perfectly flat, the brace and bitheld perfectly perpendicular, only a little pressure applied upon the knob and the crank turned slowly. The boring must be done half way through from each side of the wood, and this will liberate a disc of wood 1 inch in diameter, or 1¼ inch, according to the size of the centre-bit.

(5) There is a little instrument sold called a circle-cutter (price, 2s.), designed for cutting small circular pieces of wood from satin walnut board. It is so constructed that it will cut circles of any size up to 5 inches in diameter. This, however, is difficult for children to use.

(6) For large wheels or table-tops a circle can be drawn in a square, the corners sawn off, the obtuse corners sawn off again and then filed perfectly round. This is rather a laborious method, but quite successful. Holes can be made in the centre with a bradawl and enlarged with a round file.

(7)Cardboard Wheels.Wheels can be cut out of cardboard with scissors and pen-knife (the latter is necessary only if the spokes are to be cut out). If several cardboard wheels of the same size are gummed together, a wheel strong enough for any toy in this book can be made. The edges can be filed to make them perfectly even. Cardboard washers prevent the wheels from wobbling.

(8) The fret-saw (see Part II) is very useful for making wheels.

(9) The wooden tops of gloy bottles make very good wheels indeed (especially for motor-cars). They are ready for use at once, as they have a hole in the centre. Also the tin tops of Le Page's liquid glue make excellent small wheels; a hole can easily be made in the centre by means of a hammer and a long nail or the pin stopper of a tube of seccotine.

(10) Wheels can be bought. A sheet of four wheels costs a penny. This is the least satisfactory course.

Of the various ways of making wheels described above, the methods best suited to little ones are (1), (3), (6), (7), and (9). The axles should be narrow strips of wood, with the ends rounded. Round rods do not make good axles, because they cannot be fastened securely to the bottom of the vehicle, the nailing being a difficult matter for the children. In fastening the axles to vans, carts, etc., there is no need for blockA(Fig. 197); the latter is onlyintroduced when the wheels have to be under the vehicle; in other cases the axle can be glued and nailed directly to the bottom.

Colouring the Finished Toy.A well-made toy is beautiful without paint, which is often used merely to hide bad work and give a false appearance of finish. Children generally like the wooden toys, which they have made, uncoloured, until the grown-up person suggests paint.

However, some toys should be coloured; for example, the swinging animals described in Chapter XX. If the wood has been well sand-papered water-colour paints can be used. Older children can use oil paints or penny tins of enamel. But let the children realise the beauty of plain wood; the drawbridge in Part II is far more effective in white wood, with the stones marked out in pencil or crayon, than if painted.

A toy children delight to make is theMerry-go-round(Plate V). It has been made successfully by children from six to twelve. A square piece of stout cardboard (10-inch side) forms the bottom; this can be covered with brown paper or coloured paper. A reel is glued in the middle. Into this reel a stick (about 11 inches long) is fastened securely. Another piece of cardboard is cut round (diameter, 10 inches), and has a reel glued in the middle; this reel fits on the top of the stick and must turn freely. If the stick is square the top must be rounded to fit the reel. A handle for turning the top can be made from a reel, a piece of cork filed round or a piece of wood. Cork horses, six or eight in number, are made as described in Chapter VII. Paper bands of various colours are gummed round the middle of each horse. These horses are fastened to the top disc by pieces of cane, which may be gummed into the top disc, or simply passed through the holes and bent over.

Fig. 198

Fig. 199

Paper boys and girls can be cut out to ride on the horses. They will sit on quite steadily if cut out as in Fig. 199. A piece of paper is folded in two alongA B, and alittle sailor boy drawn; the figure is cut out, the two halves remaining joined alongC D. Both sides should be suitably coloured. The figure will be found to have four hands; one raised one on one side, and one lower one on the other, should be cut away. The heads are then gummed together. When placed on horseback the sailor may have his arms folded round the cane. Little girls in sun-bonnets can be cut out in the same way.

Fig. 200

Fig. 198 shows a very simple merry-go-round made by a large class, and more suited to the work of a large form than the first one described. Two square pieces of cardboard (3½-inch sides) form the top and bottom. Small reels are glued on as in the first merry-go-round. Four pieces of stout cane are pushed into holes in the top piece of cardboard, and the bottom of each piece of cane is split so that it holds a horse cut out of paper.

The children themselves will think of various ways of altering and improving this toy. Fig. 200 shows how match-boxes may be hung round for cars; match-boxes and horses may also be hung alternately. The children delight in decorating the top of their merry-go-round and the stick with coloured paper.

Fig. 201

Older children (nine to twelve) like to make the bottom and top of wood; in this case the top may be octagonal in shape. The central pillar, instead of being supported by a reel, can then be fastened as in Fig. 201, by four triangular supports (of which only two are shown).

Swinging Boats(Plate VI). This is another simple and effective toy that little ones can make and play with. The wooden stand can only be made by children of eight and older; a simpler stand can have a cardboard bottom, the supports being reels, the posts stripwood (¼" × ¼"), sand-papered to fit reels, and the cross-beam a strip of cardboard with holes in it.

The boats are match-boxes. Four strips of thick paper, all equal in length (a little longer than the match-box), are cut out and gummed inside the box, asA B,C D, etc., in Fig. 202. A match stick,H, passes through these strips of paper where they cross and projects on each side. Pieces of thread are tied to each end of the projecting ends. These threads fasten the car to the cross-beam.

Plate VA MERRY-GO-ROUND

Fig. 202

Paper seats should be put in the box; it can be covered with coloured paper, and the stripsA B,E F, etc., either chalked or covered with coloured paper. The children delight in making and decorating these swinging boats, and then swinging little dolls.

A Great Wheel(Plate VI). Two circular pieces of cardboard are glued to a large reel; four match sticks are fastened into holes opposite each other, and to these match-boxes are attached, as explained in the previous toy. A round rod or wooden skewer passes through the reel and through two holes drilled in the wooden supports of the stand. A slight touch will set the wheel spinning. Before putting the wheel together, the sides may be painted.

Fig. 203

Fig. 203 shows another possible shape for the top of the supports. This hollow can be quite easily filed out with a round file. Older children might like to make a pulley, as shown in Fig. 204, by means of which the wheel can be turned. The pulley wheels,AandB, are each made of three cardboard circles gummed together, the inner one, in both cases, being of smaller diameter.Ais glued to axleF G.

Fig. 204

A smaller axle,J H, is fixed into a hole in the support lower down. A hole is made in the wheel,B, into which a match is glued for a handle.Bmust turn freely on the axle,J H, and is prevented from slipping off by a nail driven through the axle. A small elastic band connects the two wheels.

These toys are made in a somewhat similar manner to the merry-go-round.

Get a large reel (diameter about 1½ inches). Next saw a piece of stripwood,A B, ¼" × ¼" × 12¼". Glue and nail to the ends of this cross-pieces of the same stripwood, 4½ inches long. Make holes for nails with a fine drill, otherwise the stripwood may split. Glue and nailA Bacross the top of the reel as in Fig. 205.

Fig. 205

Cut two pieces of stripwood, ¼" × ¼" × 6". Glue and nail cross-pieces 4¼ inches long to one end of each of these. Glue and nail them to the reel as in figure.

Next glue and nail another large reel to the centre of a board about 4 inches by 5¾ inches. Get a dowel rod that will fit the reels (diameter about ¼ inch), or file the ends of a square stick to fit;this central pillar should be about 13 inches high. Glue this pillar into the reel on the board and fit the other reel with the cross-pieces on the top of the pillar.

Fig. 206

The cars must next be made; they will hang by two strings from the ends of the cross-pieces (Fig. 206). Grooves may be filed round the ends of the cross-pieces for tying the cotton, or holes can be drilled in the ends before the cross-pieces are fastened on.

The cars are made of paper, cardboard or wood. Fig. 207 shows the pattern of a car. It should be 4½ inches long and 2 inches wide. The dotted lines show where the paper is to be bent, or in the case of cardboard half cut and bent.

The width of the bottom of the car is 2 inches, the roof 2¾ inches; this allows for bending, and makes a curved roof. The doors can be made to meet if desired; in this case each door will be 1 inch wide.

Five, four or three windows may be cut in the sides, and windows in the doors.

Paper seats may be fitted inside.

To hang the car a rod is cut, about 5 inches long,E Fin Fig. 206,and grooves are filed at each end. This is glued to the top of the car, with the ends projecting. Pieces of cotton attach the beamE Fto the cross-piece. (Length of cotton, about 7 inches.)

Fig. 207

A reel may be glued on the top of the arms for turning the airships; cotton may be wound round this, and when pulled causes the cars to revolve. Into the hole of the top reel may be inserted a stick bearing a flag.

Paint the cars according to taste.

When the top reel is set spinning the cars fly round and outward in a delightful manner, gradually returning to a vertical position as the speed lessens.

Gondolas.For the cars gondolas may be substituted, as in Fig. 208. These gondolas form simple and effective paper toys, even if not attached to revolving arms.

Draw on stout paper or cardboard and cut out the two sides,A A, as in Fig. 208. The total length of the boat should be 9 inches.

Next draw a line on a piece of paper,a´ b´in Fig. 209, the same length asa bin Fig. 208. Divide the line into three parts atc´andd´.a´ c´represents the lengtha cin Fig. 208;c´ d´(not shown to scale), the length of the cabinc d. If the full length of the gondola is 9 inches, the lengtha bwill be about 8½ inches, and the lengtha cshould be 3 inches; this makes the length of the cabin,c d, about 1¾ inches. Draw two lines atc´andd´at right angles toa´ b´. Makee fandg h(Fig. 209) equal to the widest part of the gondola. (If the length of 9 inches has been decided on, the width of the gondola should be 1¼ inches.) Complete trianglesa´ f eandg b´ has in Fig. 209; draw flanges as in diagram and cut out. Two other triangles exactly the same size with flanges will be required.

Fig. 208

Fig. 209

Now fasten together the bows,B, and the sterns,C, of the sides,A A(Fig. 208), with seccotine, taking care that no gum comes below the linea b. Gum the trianglea´ f e(Fig. 209) to the sides,A A, as in Fig. 208. Pointamust come at the very end of the sidesA, and the surface ofa f eforms the deck. Gum triangleg h b´to the sides,A, in the same way (Fig. 208). Now gum the other two triangles to the bottom of the gondola. Their apexes will probably come at aboutKandMin Fig. 208. The positions of these points can be determined by finding out at what spot the triangle brings the sidesA Aclosely together; try to keep them as far from endsaandbas possible.

SWINGING BOATS AND GREAT WHEEL(Chapter XIV)

Plate VIFLYING GONDOLAS, ETC.

The space left between the two bottom triangles has a piece of paper gummed over it.

Fig. 210

Fig. 210 shows the shape of the cabin and the measurements required for a cabin for a gondola of 9 inches. Four gondolas should be made. They should be painted black and red, or black and yellow, according to taste.

The gondolas are hung from cross-pieces, like the airships, but the arms should be 12½ inches, and the cross-pieces 9 inches; the strings must be of different lengths, since the bow is higher than the stern. Seats may be put in the cabins if desired.

Fig. 211

Flying Birds.Cut four arms as for the gondolas (stripwood ¼" × ¼" will do), drill small holes at one end, glue and nail them to a reel. Cut four short arms 3½ inches and glue them on between the long arms as in Fig. 211.

The birds are made of cardboard and corks. The birds from the long arms should hang low down, and the birds from the short arms higher up. Cane may be used for hanging the birds to thearms. The outer circle may be hung with sea-gulls (Fig. 212), and the inner circle with swallows (Fig. 213), or all the birds may be swallows. When the reel is turned quickly the birds in flight are very effective.

Fig. 212

Fig. 212 shows how the sea-gull is made out of a cork and four pieces of cardboard (one for the head, two for the wings, one for the tail). Paint the cork white, paint eyes and a beak, mark a few feathers on the wings. Figs. 213, 214, 215 show how the swallow is made.

Fig. 213

Fig. 214

Fig. 215

Fig. 216

A Fire-engine(Fig. 216). For this toy two cardboard boxes are required, one about 6" × 2" × 2",Ain Fig. 216, and the other,B, 3" × 2" × 2". The cardboard case that contains Le Page's glue is a suitable size forB. Make holes through both sides ofA, about 1 inch from one end, for the axle of the large wheels, and holes throughBatKandJfor the pieces of cane that support the ladders. GumBtoAand cover both with red paper.Dis part of a round mantle-box, and the funnel,E, a roll of paper. Both are coloured yellow,Fis a piece of stripwood, ½ inch by ¼ inch, cut theright length and glued toBand to two supports,H. A similar piece is fastened on the other side. These are for the firemen to stand on. They may be left their natural colour or coloured grey. The seat,C, is a piece of stripwood, ½ inch by ½ inch, with a paper back, andL Mare match sticks glued to the sides.G, the foot-rest, is made of cardboard and fastened to box,B, by two wedge-shaped pieces of wood. The ladders are made of strips of cardboard, with half matches as rungs.Nis a piece of cardboard gummed underneathAand projecting from it ½ inch for the fireman's stand. This stand, seat, foot-rest, ladders, etc., should be coloured red. The small wheel is about 2 inches in diameter. The diameter of the large wheel can be measured when the smaller wheels are in position.

Fig. 217

A Motor-lorry(Fig. 217). The foundation is a piece of stout cardboard or wood.Ais an open box gummed to this, and covered with paper, suitably coloured.Bis part of a box cut as in figure and gummed toA. InsideBa wooden seat,D, is fixed.Cis a smaller box, gummed upside down. The size of the lorry will depend upon the boxes procurable. It can also be made of wood, in which case the windows,DandE, and the curved portion ofBcan be cut out with a fret-saw (see Part II). Both this toy and the fire-engine look very effective made of wood.

Plate VIIFIRE-ENGINE, MOTOR-LORRY AND STEAM-ROLLER

A Steam-roller(Fig. 218). Fig. 219 shows the foundation of the steam-roller,A B,C D, etc., are pieces of stripwood, ¼ inch by ¼ inch. The front roller is made of a small mantle-box about 2-5/8 inches in length. The cover is glued on, holes are made at each end and a round, wooden axle passed through. The ends of the axle should be filed flat as in Fig. 220, so thatAandC(Fig. 219) can be glued to them. The roller may be painted black. Cut a piece of cardboard, 6½ inches by 4¼ inches. Bend this round so that it fits betweenA BandC D(Fig. 219); place the roller in position, mark with pencil the portions of cardboard that cover the roller and cut these off (see the shaded parts in Fig. 221).

Fig. 218

Fig. 222 shows the construction from cardboard of the part of the cab markedGin Fig. 218. Half cuts are made along the dotted lines; the axle of the side wheels passes through the openingsXandY.

Fig. 223 shows the part of the cab markedHin Fig. 218.

Next cut a strip of wood, 4¼" × ¼" × ¼", for an axle for the side wheels, and round the ends; the wheels are 3 inches in diameter. Fasten these to the axle. Now glue the ends of the axle for the front roller toAandC. While this is drying colour the cardboard parts of the engine dark green. BendJ(Fig. 221) and glue this part to the inner sides ofA BandC D. Cover the part markedK(Fig. 218) with paper; the part underneathKmay remain uncovered. Glue the axle of the side wheels in position behindJ, with just sufficient space forGto slip in between the engine and the axle. When the axle is secure glueGandHin position;Gis glued to the inner sides ofD CandB A,His glued to the inner sides of blocksEandF.

The supports,OandN(Fig. 218), are 4½" × ¼" × ¼".

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