Wash BenchPlate 26.
Plate 26.
The two cross slats forming the braces are 3/8" × 3/4" × 13". A center lap joint is made by cutting through half way on both slats at such an angle as will cause the outer edge of the slats to be about five inches apart. The ends of the slats should be sawed at such an angle as will make them flush with the sides of the legs and small holes drilled and countersunk so that they may be attached with 3/4" No. 4 flat-head screws.
Two 3/8" dowel rods should next be cut, one being 12-1/2" long and the other 14" long.
These dowels should be held in place in the legs by 3/4" brads, care being taken not to nail where there is to be a moving joint.
All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
No other finish is necessary.
This step ladder may be made in various sizes, the one shown here being suitable for children up to seven or eight years of age. (Plate 27.)
The two front legs should be cut first, 5/8" × 2-1/4" × 21". It will be noticed that the two ends are cut off at an angle. This angle is obtained by measuring back on one side 1" and drawing to this point from the opposite corner. Make all of these angles equal and if possible cut them in a miter-box.
The two rear legs, or braces, are cut 5/8" × 1-1/8" × 17-3/4", and the two ends are rounded. The semicircle is marked out by setting the dividers, or a compass, at a 9/16" radius and striking the curve tangent to the sides and ends of the legs.
Two holes are bored with a No. 8 bit, 5/16" from one end of the rear legs and 1-1/4" from the other end, as indicated, care being taken not to split the wood.
The top step is next made 5/8" × 5-1/4" × 9-3/4", and the top edges slightly rounded.
Two holes are bored with a small drill, 1-1/2" from the ends of this step and 1" from the rear and front edges of both ends. These should be countersunk. Later, when assembled, this top is screwed to the braces with 1" No. 6 flat-head screws, as shown in the front view. (Plate 27.)
Two braces are next made 5/8" × 2" × 5-1/4", and are cut off at either end at the same angle as were the ends of the front legs. These are attached to the inside of the legs, at the top, as shown in the side view, with four 1" No. 6 flat-head screws and glue. Care should be taken to get them just even with the front and top sides of the legs. Before the braces are attached a hole should be bored with a No. 8 bit 5/8" from the top edge and 1" from the left-hand edge to receive the dowel stick on which the rear leg swings.
Step LadderPlate 27.
Plate 27.
While boring this hole the end should be held with a clamp to prevent splitting.
The two lower steps are next made. These are 5/8" thick and are cut 3" wide. The width is greater than is needed, and is provided that the steps may be planed even with the edges of the legs later. The steps are cut 8" in length.
The next operation is cutting grooves for the steps to set into the legs, and this requires considerable care.
The lower step is 5-3/4" from the lower end of the legs. This dimension is measured off on each leg, and a line is drawn parallel with the lower end of the leg. This may be done by either using a T bevel, set at the angle of the lower end of the legs, or the dimension, 5-3/4", may be measured up on both sides of the leg and a line drawn across.
Next take the lower step and mark one end A and the other end B. Place the end A, of the lower step, evenly on this line and make a mark above the first line a little less than the thickness of the step. The groove is marked a little less than the thickness of the step so that, in case the saw cut is made a little wide, the step will not be likely to fit loosely.
Square lines across both edges of the edge from the end of the lines previously drawn and measure down from the surface a distance of 1/4" on the edges. Draw a line through this point parallel to the edge of the leg.
Next saw carefully on the lines, first drawn, down as far as this last line and cut the wood out with a half-inch chisel.
If the step will not fit in the slot, plane a very slight amount from the surface of the step until it fits snugly into the groove.
End B is fitted to the opposite leg in a similar way and the second step is placed in a like manner, 6-7/8" above the lower step.
If the drawing is examined, as these directions for placing the steps are read, the explanation will be greatly simplified.
The two narrow cross braces are next made, 3/8" × 5/8" × 15-1/2". These are crossed at their middle point in a middle-lap joint, a groove being cut half through each piece wide enough to insure a tight joint. These braces are attached to the rear legs, 2-1/2" from their lower ends, with 3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws, the holes being previously bored and countersunk.
Cut the ends of the braces even with the ends of the legs.
Holes are bored with a small bit in the grooves in the legs, 1/2" in from the sides, as shown. These holes are for the round-head screws which hold the steps in place. The steps are held in the grooves of the legs with glue and 1" No. 6 round-head blue screws.
Doll's TablePlate 28.
Plate 28.
The dowel sticks are now cut 8-3/4" long from a 1/2" dowel and, after all pieces of wood are carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper, the step ladder is assembled.
A 3/4" brad should be driven into the edge of the rear legs so that it will penetrate and hold the dowel in place.
A piece of small chain should be fastened to each front and rear leg, as shown, of a length sufficient to have the front legs of the ladder set flat on the ground. Also take care that the two chains are even with each other and parallel with the ground. No further finish is required.
While this table may be made in various sizes, the one shown in the accompanying drawing has proven very popular.
The four legs are first made 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 12". Measure down 3" from one end and taper the legs equally from this point to a width of 7/8" at the opposite ends, as shown.
The two side rails are made 1/2" × 2-7/8" × 6-1/2". The two front rails above and below the drawer are cut 1/2" × 1/2" × 12".
On the side and rear rails, centers for dowels are located 5/8" from the top and lower edges and half way between the sides. An inch brad is driven in a short distance at these points, and the head is cut off about 1/4" above the surface of the wood. These ends are now placed so that their upper edges are even with the top of the legs. Press down lightly on the rails and a mark will be made on the surface of the legs.
Remove the brads and bore the dowel hole with a 1/4" bit, 1-1/4" deep.
The two drawer rails are treated in the same manner and the holes are bored.
The top will no doubt have to be made of two pieces of wood jointed and glued together, and reinforced with dowels.
The finished dimensions are 3/8" × 12" × 19".
Short blocks of wood are screwed to the rear and two side rails even with their tops, and screws are later put through these from their under side to hold the top in place. A 3/4" No. 6 screw is placed in the center of the upper drawer rail to assist in holding the top in place. (SeePlate 28for details of the method of attaching the top.)
Two strips of wood 1/2" wide, and thick and long enough to fit tightly between the front and rear rails, are made to serve as drawer slides.
Similar strips of wood are glued to the inner part of the end rails to cause the drawer to run evenly. These strips are just thick enough to bring their surface even with the edge of the leg.
All rails should be thoroughly sanded and then assembled with glue, screws, and brads as directed, the rails and legs being clamped for several hours to insure a tight fit.
If the various parts of the table have been accurately made, the drawer should be now constructed to the dimensions called for in the drawing. If there has been any error in the making of the several pieces, of course the drawer must be made to fit the space in that individual table.
The drawer front is 3/8" × 1-7/8" × 12". The sides are 1/4" × 1-7/8" × 11-1/2". These dimensions may all have to be trimmed down somewhat to secure an easy sliding fit. The drawer construction is clearly shown in the sketch. Bottom pieces of 1/4" wood are cut to fit, and after sanding, all pieces are glued and bradded together.
Handles of the size shown in the drawing may be turned on the lathe or made by hand, and placed as indicated.
As this type of table is patterned after the ordinary kitchen table it may be left unfinished.
This table, with the accompanying chairs shown inPlate 30, makes a very artistic and interesting problem in toy-making.
The table and chairs work up very nicely if made of oak and stained a mission brown. They may also be made of soft wood and stained or painted. Directions for staining may be found in the front part of the book.
The top (Plate 29) is made 3/8" × 11" × 16" and, if a piece of wood 11" wide is not obtainable, two narrow pieces will have to be joined. (See method of joining wood on page18.)
The four uprights are made 1" × 1" × 6-1/4", and the four cross pieces 5/8" × 1" × 8".
The ends of the cross pieces are cut at a bevel, as shown, and notches are cut 1-1/8" from each end, 1/8" deep, to receive the ends of the upright. Care must be taken to get a snug fit. It is better to have the notches a trifle too small than too large. If cut a little small, the uprights are easily made to fit the grooves by planing a slight amount from their edges.
Four bottom pieces are made 1/4" × 1-1/4" × 1-1/4", to be attached to the lower cross piece, as shown, allowing 1/8" projection all around. They are fastened with 1/2" brads and glue. When attaching, see that the grain of the little square pieces runs the same as the cross pieces. On account of the thinness of the wood, holes may have to be bored for the brads. If no small drill is at hand a brad may be used as a drill.
Colonial TablePlate 29.
Plate 29.
Holes are bored in the two upper cross pieces, 3/4" from their ends. These are countersunk to receive 3/4" No.6 flat-head screws, when assembling, and are to hold the top in place.
Holes are likewise bored for the same size screws, 1-5/8" from each end of the four cross pieces, which brings the holes in the center of each notch. These holes are also countersunk.
The long lower brace is made 5/16" × 2-1/2" × 12". When assembling, this piece is located as shown in the drawing and is held in place with glue and 1/2" brads.
Sand all pieces carefully with No.1 sandpaper first and finish with No. 0.
If stain is to be used, it may be found easier to stain the pieces before assembling. Assemble as previously described, using glue where necessary and turning all screws up tightly. Apply final finish as desired.
This chair goes with the Colonial Table shown in the preceding drawing (Plate 29), and at least two chairs should be made to form the set.
The sides are first cut from 3/8" material, 5" wide and 11-1/2" long.
A freehand curve, following the general design of the one shown, should be traced on a piece of paper, cut to the above size. After the outline is satisfactory, the design should be traced on the wood preparatory to cutting out. The cutting should be done with a coping saw, cutting to the line for a finish. Place the two sides together to see if they match. Variations should be trimmed down so that the pieces are exact duplicates.
The back is next made, 3/8" × 5-1/8" × 10-3/4".
The seat is made 3/8" × 4-1/2" × 5-1/8", and the front board of the seat measures 3/8" × 3-1/2" × 5-1/8". The seat is rounded on the front edge, and the front board of seat is beveled at top and bottom to set snugly under the seat, at the slight angle shown. This angle is obtained by measuring in 1-3/8" from the front, as shown in the side view.
Sandpaper all pieces thoroughly and assemble the sides and back first, with glue and 3/4" brads. Set these brads below the surface and fill the cavity with hard beeswax. Assemble the seat and front board next, and then nail these between the sides of the chair, as shown in the drawing.
Finish as desired. See Pages15to18for method of staining and painting.
Colonial ChairPlate 30.
Plate 30.
This game is very simple in construction yet affords a great deal of pleasure to young people. (Plate 31.)
The desired outline, the dimensions for which are given in the drawing, is sketched on a piece of folded paper, as is shown by the sketch, and the design is then cut out and traced on a piece of wood cut from stock 5/8" × 11" × 12".
The cutting should be roughly done with a turning saw and finished carefully to the line with a chisel and file.
A small chamfer gives a finished appearance if placed on the front edge.
The board should be thoroughly sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first, and then finished with No. 0. The final finish may be several coats of shellac or two coats of a bright lively color of paint. If a shellac finish is used, the numbers should be lettered in with water-proof India ink, after the first coat of shellac is dry, and the second coat should be applied over this.
If paint is the finish selected, the numbers may be put on with the ink after the final coat is dry.
Hooks are located at the various points shown on the drawing, and pains should be taken to get them in perpendicular to the surface of the board. Place a screw-hook at the top to hang up by.
The rings used are the ordinary preserve jar rings and ten should constitute a set.
The board should be placed on the wall, about five feet from the floor and the contestants should stand about six feet from it.
The idea is to toss the rings in such a manner that they will land over the hooks. The best results are obtained by holding the ring between the thumb and the first two fingers, at right angles to the floor. Throw in such a way that the ring will strike flat against the board. With a little practice considerable accuracy can be developed in placing the rings.
A score of one hundred should constitute a game.
Although the game of ring toss is an old one, yet it never loses its attraction for many young people, and older ones as well.
The type of ring toss shown in the accompanying plate is a little variety from the regular form, each post being painted and numbered with the points scored by ringing that particular post. (Plate 32.)
The middle post, painted black, is a minus score, the ring falling on this causing a loss of five points.
Ring Hook GamePlate 31.
Plate 31.
The rings, five in number, are painted at their joining points with colors similar to the posts. If a ring falls over a post of the same color as that painted on the ring the score is doubled. A black ring on the black post doubles the loss. The board should be set on the floor about eight feet from the contestants. The best results can be obtained by holding the rings by the thick, heavy part, parallel to the floor, and tossing quite high in order that they may fall flat from a point above the posts.
Ring TossThe Ring Toss.
The Ring Toss.
The posts are made with a tenon, which fits snugly in a mortise, and are removable so that they may be taken out when not in use. The rings may be made of various materials, such as rope and rattan. A very satisfactory ring is made by the writer's classes, by using chair spline. This is a rattan, light, cheap and easily bent, and may be bought of any firm dealing in upholstery and chair-seating materials. A piece about 17" long is bent in circular form, overlapping about an inch and held with two 1/2" brads, cleated on the underside, as shown. Wrap with white friction tape.
The base of the ring toss is first cut 7/8" × 15" × 20". The center of each side and end is located and these points are connected, forming a diamond shape. Cut to this line and plane the edges smooth. Plane a 1/8" chamfer around the upper edge.
Post A is made 1" × 1" × 11-3/4"; posts B and C are 1" × 1" × 8-1/4"; post D, 1" × 1" × 5-1/4"; and post E, 1" × 1" × 6-3/4". All of these posts are chamfered about 1/8" at the top.
It will be noticed, by referring to the drawing of the side view, that each post is an inch square for a certain distance up and from that point they taper to 1/2" square at the top. These measurements are figured from the shoulder where they rest upon the board, there being a 1/2" tenon below. These tenons are cut so that they will be 1/2" square and 3/4" long.
All holes or mortises are located 1-1/2" directly in from the corner or point at which they rest, except the center post, which is at the center point of the board. These mortises should be a fairly tight fit, yet allowing for the removal of the uprights when not in use.
Ring TossPlate 32.
Plate 32.
The color scheme is suggested on the drawing but may be changed to suit the individual taste. After painting or shellacking the board the first coat, the numbers should be lettered in, using waterproof India ink, and then the second coat applied.
This is another very popular and interesting game and gives the girls in the domestic science course a little opportunity to show their skill in making the bags. These should be cut so that they will finish about four inches square and one end left open so that they may be filled about three-fourths full of beans, peas or small pebbles. The end is then sewed up. Burlap, ticking or any odd pieces of cloth may be used for the bags.
The board itself will, no doubt, have to be glued up from two or more boards in order to have the finished size 20" wide by 24" long. (Plate 33.) Half inch bass or whitewood is suitable.
A piece of paper should be cut 20" × 24" and folded so that it is 12" × 20". Trace the outline on this paper, cut and unfold and lay on the board and trace around this. Cut to the line, using a turning saw and chisel and perhaps a wood file on the curves.
Enjoy Bean Bag GameBoys as well as Girls enjoy the Bean Bag Game.
Boys as well as Girls enjoy the Bean Bag Game.
The openings are located, as shown by the drawing. The centers are first obtained, and then the widths and lengths are measured from these center lines. Holes are next bored, as shown by the small sketch, with a 3/4" bit, and either a turning or a keyhole saw is used to cut out the pieces. If a turning saw is used, the blade must first be unfastened at one end, inserted in the hole and re tightened on the opposite side. Finish carefully to the line with chisel and file.
Bean Bag GamePlate 33.
Plate 33.
A small block 1/2" × 1-1/2" × 2-1/8" is attached to the back of the board with 3/4" No. 6 flat-head screws. This is to hold the hinge.
The long brace is made 1/2" × 2-1/8" × 18-1/2" and is held to the small block by the hinge spoken of previously. A screw-eye is placed about 2" from the lower end of this brace and a wire or stout cord runs from this to similar screw-eyes, placed on the back of the main board about 2" from the bottom edge and 3" from the side edges. The cord or wire should be of sufficient length to cause the board to tip at about 60 degrees.
After the board has been carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and then finished with No. 0, the whole board should receive a coat of white shellac. After allowing this to dry over night, it should be rubbed down lightly with fine sandpaper and the numbers 2, 3 and 5 lettered on with black waterproof India ink. Apply another coat of shellac, or two more if necessary.
Paint may be used instead of shellac as a finish, in which case the numbers should be put on with paint of a contrasting color to show up well.
The little sketch in the drawing shows the back braces made the same as those on theDart Game Board. While this is a little more difficult than the simple screw-eye and wire arrangement, it is much more satisfactory.
This game has proven very popular, not only with the young folks, but with the grown-ups as well. Any game where skill and accuracy may be developed has a strong appeal to both boys and girls as well.
The board illustrated inPlate 34, should be made of soft wood—bass, pine or white wood is suitable—and cut to 15" wide by 21-1/2" long, from 7/8" material. The top edge is chamfered 1/4".
The surface should be thoroughly planed and sanded and given a coat of white shellac. While this is drying, the rear supporting braces may be gotten out. The main support is 7/8" × 2-1/8" × 19". A hole is bored with a No. 10 bit, 1-9/16" from the end, and a piece is sawed out 5/8" wide from the opposite end to this hole. See the drawing for detail. A piece of 1/4" dowel is glued in the end to reinforce the piece, as shown.
The smaller piece Y is cut 7/8" × 3/8" × 17" and is held to piece X by a quarter-inch dowel, as shown. A brass cup hook is screwed into the end which is connected with a brass screw-eye placed in the back of the board, 2-1/4" from the bottom edge.
Dart BoardThe Dart Board in Use.
The Dart Board in Use.
The small block X is 7/8" × 1-1/2" × 2-1/8" and is attached, as indicated, with glue and two 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.
The long brace X is attached to this by a 2" butt hinge and 1" flat-head screws.
This folding arrangement has proven very satisfactory. The board packs nicely and stands rigidly when in position for playing. However, a simpler bracing may be used. The long brace X may be a solid piece 7/8" × 2-1/8" × 19", with a screw-eye on the underside from which a wire can run to a similar screw-eye on the back of the board. The wire can be adjusted so that the board will slope at the proper angle.
After being sanded, the surface of the board should be given a coat of shellac and after drying should be rubbed down with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
The circles should now be struck with a compass and waterproof ink, the diameters given, using a fairly heavy line. After the ink is dry give another coat of shellac. When this is dry the board is ready to have the colors applied to the circles.
First paint circle A black and circle C red, painting just to the circle edge. Allow this to dry thoroughly, and then paint circle B yellow and circle D green. When these are dry, it may be necessary to strike all the circles again with ink.
Where shown, letter in the numbers to score the game. It will be noticed that the small outside circles are minus numbers.
Give the entire board and braces a finishing coat of shellac.
Darts.
The darts may be whittled out by hand, but the most satisfactory ones are turned out on the lathe to the dimensions shown. A 1-1/2" brad should be driven half its length into the rounded end, the head cut off with cutting pliers, and the end pointed with a fine file.
Dart BoardPlate 34.
Plate 34.
At the opposite end two holes should be drilled of a size large enough to receive the ends of wing or tail feathers of some accommodating fowl. These should be dipped in glue and pressed into place.
About six of these darts should be made and the wooden parts painted in bright colors. Birch or maple are good woods to use.
The board should be placed on the floor, about ten feet from a given station point, and each contestant should be allowed to throw the six darts. The score should then be counted. Darts landing on a line should be credited to the lower number. One dart landing on and sticking to another, doubles the score of the first dart. Darts not sticking in the board are not allowed to be re-thrown. Darts knocked out by other darts lose their score.
One thousand points should constitute a game.
The points of the darts may be sharpened from time to time with a fine file.
This is an interesting toy to place on the top of the shed or garage where the wind will have a chance to revolve the brightly colored wheel at a good rate. It also serves as a weather vane.
Kinds of MillsThree Kinds of Wind Mills and the Sand or Water Mill.
Three Kinds of Wind Mills and the Sand or Water Mill.
The main part of the mill (Plate 35) is made up of four pieces of half inch stock, two being 3-1/2" × 4-3/4" and two 2-1/2" × 4-3/4". The two larger sides taper to 2-1/2" wide at the top and the two smaller pieces to 1/2". The top piece forming the roof is made from a piece of wood 1-3/4" thick. If wood of this thickness is not available, several thinner pieces must be glued together. It is cut 3-1/2" × 3-1/2" and a line is drawn around the edge 3/8" from the lower sides. From this line the roof tapers to a point directly over the middle of the piece, as shown.
Wind MillPlate 35.
Plate 35.
The long support, on which the mill rests, is made 1/2" × 1-1/4" × 10-1/4". Two holes are bored and countersunk for the screws which hold it to the mill base. A similar hole is bored from the opposite end for the screw which holds in place the round piece A.
The circular piece marked A on the side view, is made 3/8" × 2-1/2". A hole is bored 1/2" deep with a quarter inch bit on the edge. The piece C is a quarter inch dowel, 7-3/4" long. A hole is bored with a quarter inch bit in the roof, at a slant, as is shown in the side view. This hole is 3/8" deep.
The dowel piece C fits in these holes when assembled, being held with glue.
The smaller base piece, which is attached to the bottom of the mill with glue and 1" brads, is made 1/2" × 4" × 5". The small piece, on which the vanes of the mill turn, is made from a piece of half inch dowel, cut 1-1/2" long. A hole is bored in the roof piece 1/2" deep to receive this. A smaller hole is drilled in the outer end of this dowel to receive a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw on which the vanes revolve.
A piece is now cut 3/4" × 7/8" × 7" to serve as the supporting piece on which the whole mill turns. On one end a notch is cut, as shown in the drawing, 3/8" deep and 1-1/2" long. Two screw holes are bored in this notch to allow the piece to be attached to the shed or roof. On the opposite end a hole is bored in the center, 3/4" deep and with a drill that will insure a 16-penny nail fitting very tightly. One of these nails should be driven in and the headed end cut off so as to allow a projection of 1" beyond the end of the wood. The end of this nail should be filed smooth and round.
A hole is bored to receive this in the base pieces, as shown in the drawing, extending through both pieces and large enough for the nail to turn freely within. A washer should be placed over this to insure the mill turning easily.
The two pieces for the vane of the mill are made 3/4" × 1" × 5-1/2". Each vane is chiseled at an angle, sloping in one direction at one end and in the opposite direction at the other, allowing at least 1/8" for the thickness. Considerable pains should be used in shaping these vanes to insure even balance. File and sand these smooth.
A middle lap joint is made exactly in the center of each vane, cutting half through on each piece and making a smooth, flush fit. Hold the vanes together with glue and 1/2" brads at this point and carefully bore a hole atthe center large enough to allow a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw to turn easily.
A small washer is placed under the head of the screw and one between the rear of the vanes and the end of the supporting dowel. Turn the screw up tight enough to allow the vanes to clear nicely.
All pieces should be carefully sanded with No. 1 sandpaper first and finished with No. 0. Paint all pieces before assembling.
A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing.
WIND MILL.(Type B.)
This is another interesting action toy and makes a very pleasing addition to the top of a garage or barn. (Plate 36.) Children also enjoy toys of this sort at the beaches where they can build up little villages in the sand.
The four long uprights are made 1/2" × 1/2" × 19". The top piece, which is eight sided, is first made 1/2" × 3-1/4" × 3-1/4". Then 3/4" is measured in from each corner and these points are connected and the lines cut carefully with a saw. A hole is bored in the center with a bit a little smaller than a 1-3/4" No. 8 screw.
The piece to which the long uprights are attached is next made, 1/2" × 2-1/4" × 2-1/4". Measure in from each corner, on the upper surface, 5/8", and from each corner on the lower edge measure in 1/2". Draw these sloping lines from top to bottom points and saw these corner pieces out very carefully. A hole is bored in the center of this piece similar to the hole bored in the previous piece.
Attach the long uprights to this piece with glue and 1-1/4" brads, trimming the top ends of the uprights with a chisel and file until they are flush with the surface of the top piece.
Carefully spread the uprights until they are 9-1/2" apart from outside to outside, as shown. Mark off points on the inside edges 4" up from the bottom ends and 7-1/4" above the first marks. These points are to locate the places where the cross pieces go.
Cut the eight cross braces 1/2" × 1/2" and sufficiently long to fit nicely at these points between the uprights. It will be noticed that they will have to be cut at a slight angle. Attach these braces with glue and 1-1/4" brads, seeing that they are all even and parallel with the floor when setting upright.
The angle braces are made 1/2" × 1/2" × 11" and cross each other with a halved joint, as shown. The ends are cut at an angle to conform to the slope of the uprights and are attached to them by 1" brads and glue.
Piece E is now made, 1-1/4" × 1-1/4" × 2", and is tapered to 3/4" square at the upper end. This is done by measuring in 1/4" from each upper corner and drawing to the lower corners and cutting to the line. A small hole is bored in the center of the upper end to start the screw which holds piece B in place.
Wind Mill BPlate 36.
Plate 36.
Piece B is made 3/4" × 3/4" × 5-1/2" and has a slot cut in it, 1/4" wide and 2-3/8" long, as shown. The inside end of the slot is cut at a slight angle to receive the slope of tailpiece C. A hole is bored 3-1/4" from the slot end of this piece, of a size to turn freely on a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw.
Tail C is made 1/4" × 4" × 6" and then 1/2" is measured up from the lower right end corner and 1/2" measured in from this point toward the left and a dot is placed. Draw lines from this dot to the lower-left-hand corner and to the upper-right-hand corner. Round all of these corners, using a 1/2" radius and carefully finish to the lines all around.
The vanes A must be very carefully made to insure a close fit and proper balance. Two pieces are cut 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 7". The method of forming the vanes will be more easily understood by referring to the detail, where every measurement is plainly given. The two vanes are joined with a middle lap joint, which requires considerable skill in forming. Each piece is cut half way through at its middle point, seeing that the groove is no wider than the width of the piece that goes within it.
The two vanes are joined with glue and four 3/4" brads.
A hole is bored in the center, of a size that will turn easily on a 1-1/2" No. 8 round-head screw.
Sand all pieces well with No. 1/2 sandpaper.
Paint the various pieces as suggested in the color scheme and attach the tail C to piece B with glue and 1/2" brads.
The vanes A are attached to piece B with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with washers under the screw head and between the vanes and piece B. Piece B is attached to block E with a 1-1/2" round-head screw, with washers under the screw head and between B and E.
Have all movable parts so that they will move freely.
A finish nail may be placed in the lower part of each leg to secure the mill to the desired location.
This is an interesting beach toy as either fine sand or water may be used to operate it. (Plate 37.) It is very simple to construct and is made as follows: The base is constructed of 1/2" pine, 7-1/2" wide and 7-1/2" long; and the four blocks which are glued and bradded to the corners, are 1/2" × 1" × 1". The two uprights are 3/4" × 7/8" × 8-1/4", and the two cross supports at the tops measure 3/4" × 7/8" × 2-1/2".
Sand or Water MillPlate 37.
Plate 37.
Two holes are bored in the base for the screws that hold the uprights in place. These holes are 2-3/4" from the end and 2-1/8" from the sides.
Holes are bored in the little top braces 1/2" from the two ends and one just in the middle, or 1-1/4" from the ends. These are for the screws that hold the braces to the uprights and to the top piece. All holes are bored with a drill suitable to take 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws, and all are countersunk on the side where the screw enters.
The top piece is made 1/2" × 5-1/4" × 5-1/2" with the two front corners slightly rounded, as shown.
A hole is bored of a size to receive the funnel used, 1-1/2" from the front edge and 2-5/8" from the sides.
A hole is drilled in each upright piece, 3-1/2" from the lower end, of a size that will insure a driving fit to the wire used, in this case being a piece of No. 12 copper-dipped, 4-3/4" long.
A piece of 3/4" dowel is cut off 7/8" long and a similar hole is bored about two-thirds of the way through, as shown.
Four holes are bored, as indicated on the drawing, for the quills, which are later glued in place. Feathers from the poultry yard will furnish these.
Sand all pieces with No. 1 sandpaper and first assemble the top, the two uprights and the two cross supports. Paint these two coats of red paint.
Attach the cross blocks to the base with glue and 3/4" brads and paint two coats of yellow. Paint the tunnel two coats of bright green.
While these are drying construct the paddle wheel. The piece through which the wire axle runs is 3/4" × 3/4" × 2-1/4". The four blades are 1/4" × 2-1/4" × 2-3/4".
After these are sanded and a hole is bored through the center piece, nail the blades to the center piece, in the position shown in the side view. Use 3/4" brads and glue for fastening the blades. Paint two coats of yellow.
When the parts so far assembled are thoroughly dry, finish the assembly, using 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws and glue.
The toy is now ready to operate.
A cradle built according toPlate 38is suitable for a doll sixteen or seventeen inches in length.
The two sides should be first made 1/2" × 6-1/2" × 20". These are later beveled slightly on their lower edge to conform to the slope of the head and foot board.