Kiddie KarPlate 52.
Plate 52.
This lively toy is somewhat different from the three-wheeled Kiddie Kar and is suited for children of eight or over.
If desired, this toy may be made up with three wheels like a velocipede.
If this type is made, a piece of dowel rod, of hard wood, is cut about six or eight inches long and an inch in diameter. This dowel should go through a hole in the rear brace, and the wheels should be attached to the ends with 2" No. 12 round-head screws and washers.
The following directions are for the two-wheel Kiddie Koaster shown inPlate 53.
The front supporting piece is first made of a piece of hard wood, 2" × 2-1/4" × 19". A distance of 7" is measured up from the lower end and 7/8" is measured beyond this. From this point the remainder of the brace is thinned to one inch in thickness. The top end is rounded and the bottom end chamfered, as shown.
A hole is carefully bored with an inch bit, 5-3/4" from the lower end. An allowance of 1/2" is made for the thickness of each fork and the remaining inch is removed with a saw up to the hole previously bored.
A hole is bored for the handle, 1-1/4" from the top, with a 7/8" bit. Another hole is bored on each side, 6-1/4" from the lower end with a 3/4" bit, 1/2" deep.
Kiddie KoasterThe Kiddie Koaster.
The Kiddie Koaster.
These two holes are for the foot rests. Small holes are bored one inch from the lower end to receive a 1/4" × 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt. A 1/4" bit should be used to bore these.
The rear support is made 2" × 2-1/4" × 16-3/4". From a point 6-1/2" from the lower end this is thinned down to one inch thick, the same way as the front support. At the upper end measure down on one edge 7/8" and draw to the opposite corner.
Kiddie KoasterPlate 53.
Plate 53.
Cut off at this angle so that it will come on a line with the cross piece. A hole is bored with a 1/4" bit, one inch from the lower end to take a 1/4" × 2-1/2" round-head stove bolt.
Chamfer 3/8" from the lower end.
Bore a hole 4-3/4" from the lower end with an inch bit and remove the wood to form the rear fork, in the same manner as was done for the front.
The cross piece between the front and rear support, on which the seat rests, is first made 7/8" x 5" x 13-1/8".
Measure in two inches from the upper corner and draw a line to the lower corner. Saw squarely on this line to get the proper slant. Measure from this upper left-hand corner 9-1/2" and draw a line from here to the lower right-hand corner. Saw to this line. On this last end sawed, measure in 3/4" and make a tenon, as indicated in the side view. This tenon should be 1/2" thick. The other dimensions for the tenon are given on the drawing.
On the rear support a mortise is now cut of a size to receive the tenon tightly, and to make the top edge of the cross piece and upper end of the rear support on a line.
This tenon should be cut with a 1/2" bit, boring so as to make the mortise about 13/16" deep. Remove the extra wood with a small chisel until the tenon fits snugly within the mortise.
Later, when assembling, this joint is glued and 3/4" brads are driven in from the side to pin it in place, as indicated.
The seat is made 3/4" × 5" × 7". It is shaped, as shown in the sketch, cutting the outline with a turning saw and finishing to the line with a chisel and file. Two holes are bored and countersunk to receive 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws which hold the seat in place.
The seat is stuffed with tow, excelsior or other suitable material and covered with brown burlap or with imitation leather, as desired. A piece of braid, to match the material used, is tacked around the lower edge with upholstery tacks to match.
The handles and foot rests are best turned out on a lathe, although they may be whittled out with a jack-knife. The dimensions for these are clearly shown.
The front wheel is 9-1/2" in diameter, made from wood 3/4" thick. The rear wheel is 8" in diameter, the wood being 3/4" stock.
These wheels should be made of hard wood or wood glued up three-ply. These are best turned on a lathe, although they may be cut with a turning saw and chiseled to the line and finished with a file.
A special hinge may be obtained from most any toymanufacturing firm, to place between the front support and the cross-piece. In the author's classes, hinges of this special type were obtained in various sizes, without any trouble. The size indicated in the drawing is five inches long and costs fourteen cents.
If these special hinges are not used, the ordinary butt hinges may be substituted, two being used.
A groove of the proper length and depth, to fit these hinges, can be drilled and chiseled out in the front brace. A saw cut can be made in the cross piece, across the end, in which to insert the hinge. When assembled, screws should be placed so as to accurately engage with the screw holes in the hinges.
Before assembling, all pieces should be thoroughly sanded and painted two coats.
A suggested color scheme is given on the drawing.
The Ski Skooter, shown onPlate 54, is best made of ash.
The runner is first made 5/8" × 3-3/8" × 39" and thinned down, for ten inches from the front end, to 3/8" thick.
The runner is steamed, bent and grooved by the method shown in Plate 55.
The upright piece is made 7/8" × 3-1/8" × 16-1/8" and one of the bracing pieces 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 12" and the other 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 13". These are cut at an angle of 45 degrees at each end, as shown.
Ski SkooterThe Ski Skooter is great sport on a moderate hill.
The Ski Skooter is great sport on a moderate hill.
The seat is made 7/8" × 6" × 12", and the top edges are slightly rounded.
Two grips, which also have their lower edges rounded, are made 3/4" × 7/8" × 5".
Ski SkooterPlate 54.
Plate 54.
Bending RunnersPlate 55.
Plate 55.
Two strengthening pieces are made 7/8" × 7/8" × 3-1/8" and their ends are cut at 45 degrees, as shown. These are attached to the upright directly under the seat.
Bore all holes, where shown in the drawing, and countersink them. Assemble with glue and screws of a size shown on the drawing.
The color scheme is given on the drawing, but may be changed to suit individual tastes. Two coats of paint are applied, sanding carefully between coats.
The seat can be upholstered if desired.
Place the ends in a washboiler, about half full of boiling water, and allow them to remain about five hours.
Place the tip, or front end of the runners, under the back edge of the top step of a step ladder. Slowly bend the runner downward until it lays flat on the front edges of the other steps.
Secure this in place either with clamps or by pieces of rope and wood.Plate 55shows two methods of bending the runners. Regular skis may be bent in the same manner.
Leave the runners in the clamps overnight.
The Ski Skipper affords a lively form of winter amusement, and great speed can be obtained on the surface of the snow, especially when the crust is covered with a small amount of light snow.
For Boys and GirlsThe Ski Skipper will please boys as well as girls.
The Ski Skipper will please boys as well as girls.
The runners are best made of white ash, from half-inch material, 2-3/4" wide and 42" long. (Plate 56.)
The front end of the runners is tapered, starting about five inches from the end. The extreme tips are blunt, being 1/2" wide.
Ski SkipperPlate 56.
Plate 56.
Starting about twelve inches from the front end, the runners are thinned down with a plane, on the upper surface, to 3/8" thick.
Both runners have a groove cut along their counters from the rear end to the point where they curve upward.
This groove is 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide, and may be cut by various methods. It may be cut with a grooving plane; it may be scored with a sharp-pointed gauge and the inner part removed with a chisel; or, if a power saw is available, it may be easily cut with a dado saw.
The upper edge of the runners may be chamfered about 1/8" for a finish. When the foregoing operations are completed, the runners should be bent, using the method shown inPlate 55.
The slats forming the seat top are now made 1/2" × 2-1/2" × 12", and the single slat for the foot rest 1/2" × 1-1/2" × 12".
The seat slats have holes bored and countersunk 3/4" from the edges and 1-1/4" from the ends, to receive 1" No. 8 flat-head screws. The foot slat has a similar hole bored 1-1/4" from the ends and centered between the edges.
The seat supports are first cut 7/8" × 7-1/2" × 9-1/2" and then an inch is measured in on the top edge on each side and lines are drawn to the lower corners, as shown. Saw and plane to this line, making the taper as shown in the side view. The cross brace is made 7/8" × 3" × 9".
The supports for the foot rests are first made 7/8" × 3" × 3-1/2". On the upper edge, which is 3-1/2" long, measure in 3/8" from each end and draw the sloping lines to the lower corners, making the taper, as indicated. Round these upper corners.
Bore holes in the runners for attaching the uprights at places where they will engage with the uprights, at points shown on the drawing. There should be three screws in each large upright and two in the smaller front support. Assemble with glue and 1-1/2" No. 8 flat-head screws at all places except where the cross slats are held. At these points 1" No. 8 flat-head screws will be long enough.
It will be noticed, in examining the top and front views, that the supporting uprights are not placed directly half way between the edges of the skis, but are offset so that they come nearer the outside edge of the runner. This is done so that the screw will not come in the groove.
Two blocks of wood to hold the screw eyes, to which the rope is attached, are made from 1/2" material, 1-1/2" square.
Two holes are bored in these blocks, as shown, and they are attached eight inches from the front end of the runner with 3/4" No. 6 round-head screws. A screw eyeis placed in each block, of a size sufficient to receive a 3/8" rope.
It is best to bore the hole for the screw eye first, in order to prevent splitting the block.
A suggested color scheme is shown in the drawing. Two coats of paint should be applied.
While this drawing (Plate 57), to all intents and purposes details a doll sleigh, yet by increasing the dimensions slightly the sleigh will be suitable for a small child.
First, make the runners of 1/2" spruce, or other suitable wood, cutting them 9" wide by 26" long.
On the upper edge measure back 1-1/2" and from this point draw to the corner of the lower edge. Saw to this line and slightly round the corners, as shown. With the dividers set at a radius of 4-1/2", strike a circle very lightly on the opposite end of the runners, so that it will be just tangent to the edges and end of the board. Measure up from the lower edge of the runner 7-1/2" and draw a line parallel to it until it strikes the circle. Cut to this line and also saw to the curve of the circle, forming the outline of the runner. Finish to the line with a chisel and file. See that the two runners are exact duplicates. Bevel slightly on the top edge to allow the runners to flare.
Doll SleighThe Doll Sleigh may be made larger to carry a baby brother or sister.
The Doll Sleigh may be made larger to carry a baby brother or sister.
Next make the sleigh bottom 1/2" × 10" × 16-1/2". Two braces, to go below the sleigh bottom, are made 1/2" × 3" × 8-1/2".
These braces are cut at an angle at each end, as shown. The angle is obtained by measuring in 3/8" on one edge and drawing to the opposite lower corner from this point and sawing to the line.
The sides of the sleigh are made 1/2" × 8" × 22". On the top edge measure in 7-3/4" and place a dot. Measure down from the right-hand lower corner of the sides 4-1/2" and from this point, draw to the right-hand upper corner.
From the left-hand lower corner measure in 1-3/4" and place a dot. From the same corner measure up on the left-hand edge six inches and make another dot. Connect these two dots to form the slope of the front end. From the last dot placed, square a line in from the left-hand edge 1-3/4" long. From this point sketch a free-hand curve, as is shown in the side view of the sleigh (Plate 57) to the point first located on the upper edge. Cut to the outline, being sure both sides match.
The front edge of the sleigh is made 1/2" × 6" × 11" and the rear end 1/2" × 9" × 11-1/2". On the lower edge of the rear end measure in 1-5/8" from each corner and draw to the upper opposite corners. Saw and plane to these lines. This will give the taper of the rear end.
Place the board from which the front is to be cut on the backboard and trace the slope of the sides and carefully finish to the line.
The two handles are made 7/8" × 1-1/4" × 23-1/2", and the top piece, or grip, 1" × 1-1/4" × 19".
The uprights are mortised into the grips 5/8", as shown on the drawing.
Holes are bored in the center of the curve of the runners with a medium-size drill, and at these points an inch dowel is cut long enough to fit snugly between the runners, after the sleigh is assembled. The ends of the dowel are cut at a slope to conform to the pitch of the runners. This dowel is held with glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head screws.
Holes are bored, where indicated in the side view (Plate 57), to hold the brace in place. Holes are also bored in the handles to attach to the body of sleigh at places most convenient.
Holes are bored in the sleigh bottom to attach the same to the cross braces, using 1" No. 6 flat-head screws. Use 1-1/4" No. 8 round-head screws on the outside of the runners. The handles are attached with 3/16" × 1-1/2" round-head stove bolts. All other parts should be secured with glue and three-penny fine finish nails.
If desired the bottom of the runners may be covered with 1/2" strap iron.
Various finishes may be used after the parts are thoroughly sanded. If stain is to be the finish, apply it according to the directions in the front of the book and, after drying eight or ten hours, apply two coats of shellac. Sand between coats with No. 0 sandpaper. After the last coat of shellac is dry apply one coat of spar varnish.
Doll's SleighPlate 57.
Plate 57.
If paint is to be used as the finishing material, decide on the color scheme and apply first a priming coat of flat white, after which one or two finish coats may be applied when dry, sanding lightly between each coat.
This is a very useful and practical problem and has been made up in large numbers by seventh and eighth grade boys.
The chair shown inPlate 59fits compactly under the table and takes up but little room.
The top is joined by gluing several boards together and finishes 30" in diameter. Basswood, 7/8" thick, is very good material to use. The boards must be carefully jointed and held together with 1/2" dowels. Hot glue is the best to use, although the cold glue will answer. Leave the pieces in the clamps overnight. The top may be cut to shape with a turning saw and finished to the line with a sharp chisel and file.
The four legs are 7/8" × 1-3/8" × 20-3/8". Two cleats, which are screwed to the underside of the table, are next made, these being 7/8" × 3" × 24".
These cross each other in the middle with a middle lap joint, as indicated at A, on the drawing. A notch is cut on the ends of these braces at C, as shown, to receive the legs.
The legs are held in place with glue and 1-3/4" No. 10 round-head blue screws.
Tables and ChairsChildren's Table and Chairs.
Children's Table and Chairs.
The braces are attached to the top of the table with a sufficient number of 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws to insure a strong job.
The legs are notched 3/8" deep, 7" up from the bottom, to receive the lower leg braces. See sketch B,Plate 58. These lower braces are 3/4" × 1-3/8" × 23", joined at their center with a middle lap joint, the same as the top braces, and are held in the notch in the legs with glue and 1-1/2" round-head screws.
Child's TablePlate 58.
Plate 58.
All parts should be carefully sandpapered, first with No. 1 sandpaper and then finished with No. 0.
The final finish is optional. It may be stained and varnished or it may be finished in enamel.
If enamel is used there should first be a couple of coats of flat white applied, each coat being sanded when dry, with No. 0 sandpaper, and the final coat of enamel applied.
Some appropriate design, in a grayed color, may be put on with stencil if desired.
Plate 59gives directions for making the chairs to match the table inPlate 58.
The rear legs should first be cut out of 7/8" stock, 1-1/8" wide and 25" long. The two connecting rails are 1-1/8" × 9-5/8". The lower rail is notched into both front and rear legs, 6" from the lower ends, 3/8" deep.
The upper rail, on which the seat rests, is notched in 3/8" deep, and 4" above the lower rail. The pieces so far completed may now be sanded and assembled, using glue and 1-1/2" No. 10 round-head screws.
It is well to reinforce the joints by driving an eight-penny finish nail each side of the screws. These should be set below the surface, and the hole should be filled with hard beeswax before painting.
While this is drying, the front and rear rails can be made.
These rails, five in number, are all 7/8" × 1-1/8" × 8-1/4".
The wide back rail is made of 1/2" material, 4-1/2" wide by 8-1/4" long.
Holes should next be bored for the various screws, where indicated on the drawing.
A cross cleat, which runs between the upper side rails and helps support the seat, is made 7/8" × 3" × 8-1/4". This is attached, as shown in the sketch of the joinery of the legs and rails, and is screwed to the under side of the seat with 1-1/4" No. 8 flat-head screws.
The seat is made 7/8" × 10" × 11-1/2" and is notched at the corners to receive the rear legs. The top is rounded slightly on its rear edges.
Next assemble the two sides with glue and screws of proper size, as shown. All surfaces should be carefully sanded and the finish should be treated as described for the table.
Child's ChairPlate 59.
Plate 59.
Adapting the Problem to the Boy's Ability,15Bean Bag Game,72-4Bench Hook,22-4Camel,38Child's Cart,93-5;Chair,130-1;Dump Wagon,95-9;Snow Shovel,46-7;Step Ladder,59-63;Table,128-30;Wash Bench,57-9;Wheelbarrow (Type A),99-103, (Type B),102-5Clown Running Wheel,105-9Cock Horse,109-10Colonial Doll's Chair,66-7;Cradle,87-9;Table,64-6Coping Saw Work,26-7Darts,75-7Dart Board Game,74-6Dippy Duck,40-1Doll's Bed,89-91;Clothes Rack,55-7;Cradle,84-7;Ironing Board (Size A),49-51, (Size B),51-3, (Size C),53-5;Sleigh,125-8;Table with Drawer,62-4Dowel Sticks,27Duck,30Elephant,33Equipment,13-4Finish and Color,15-7Five Post Ring Toss,68-72Goat,36Goose,31History of Toy-Making,11-3Kiddie Kar,113-15;Koaster,116-19Lamb,35Laying Out Work,14Merrimac,44-5Method of Bending Runners,121-2;of Enlarging Figures,39-40;of Jointing Wood,18-20Monitor,42-3Pelican,29Periscope,47-8Picture Puzzle Construction,27-8Rabbit,34Rhinoceros,32Ring-The-Hook Game,68-9Rocking Rooster,111-13Rooster,37Sand or Water Mill,82-4Simple Tool Sharpening,24-6Ski Skippers,122-5Ski Skooter,119-22Staining,17-8Support to be Held in Vise,20-2;for Holding Coping Saw Work,20;for Table Use,22Transferring a Design,14-5Two Types of Stilts,91-3Wind Mill,77-80; (Type B)80-2
Transcribers Note.Inconsistency in hyphenation is as in the original."heighth" was changed to "height"."Sonnenburg" was changed to "Sonnenberg"Titles of Plate illustrations were taken from drawings with inconsistent punctuation and this was systematised.Otherwise very few minor typographical errors have been corrected.
Transcribers Note.
Inconsistency in hyphenation is as in the original.
"heighth" was changed to "height".
"Sonnenburg" was changed to "Sonnenberg"
Titles of Plate illustrations were taken from drawings with inconsistent punctuation and this was systematised.
Otherwise very few minor typographical errors have been corrected.