Shapka, camp at, ii.95Shapku-chu stream, ii.97Shargul, lama temple at, i. 42Shar-tso, lake, ii.306Shawe, Dr., Leh, i. 54Sheep, return of our missing, i. 165; wild, 174; ii. 252, 310, 380; used as pack-animals, 289, 334Sheep-driving, author’s inaptitude for, ii.299Shemen-tso, lake, camp at, ii.270; journey along,272Sherring, Mr. C. A., ii.128; kindness of, and Mrs.,144Sheryak, camp in, ii.92Shey monastery, i. 61Shialung valley, camp near, ii.236Shib-la-yilung valley, i. 271Shigatse, arrival at, i. 295; interview with commander of Chinese garrison, 296; remains of caravan at, 297; visited by Tibetan officials at, 298; impression made by my Chinese passport, 299; permission to attend New Year Festival in Tashi-lunpo, 299; description of Festival, 301-315; return Ma Daloi’s visit, 315; arrangements for visit to the Tashi Lama, 316; architecture of, 340; Dzong of, 340, 377; sports-meeting at, 341-345; Chinese New Year celebration, 345; gruesome funeral customs, 370; Lhasa Government officials’ visit to me, 375; arrival of correspondence, 377; assistance rendered by Gulam Kadir, 377; market-place of, 378; system of espionage in, 379; sketches of women in, 380; variety of types and costumes, 382; visit to Kung Gushuk, 385; Chinese intrigues in, 390; review of my position, 394; sudden cordiality of authorities in, 398; formal council held, and my return route specified, 398; a canine interlude in, 399; preparations for departure from, 400; messengers despatched from Raga-tasam to, ii.42Shipki, village of, ii.417Shipki-la pass, farewell to Tibet from, ii.417Shooting competitions, Tibetan, i. 343Shovo-tso, lake, camp on shore of, ii.396Shukkur Ali, uniform cheerfulness of, i. 52Shuru-tso, lake, i. 216; ii.25; terraces of,33; unusual direction of,33; storm on,34; shape of,34Shyok valley, wretched journey through the, ii.230-232; farewell festival in village,232; caravan derelicts in,237; canine happy event,238; enormous wastage of horses in,240,245; scarcity of provender,241; our complicated situation,242; miserable camping-places,242,246; Mohammedan hymn in,246Simla, scenery of railway journey to, i. 5; arrival at, and welcome by Sir Francis Younghusband, 6; anxious moments in, 7; State functions in Viceregal Lodge, 12, 17; ii.420; rickshaws in, i. 17; Lord Kitchener’s house in, 18; ii.422; departure from, i. 20; return to, ii.420; residence in Viceregal Lodge, i. 13; ii.420; hospitality of Colonel Dunlop Smith and Lord Kitchener,420,422; lecture before the Viceregal Court,421; good-bye to my Ladakis and Little Puppy in,422Sind, valley of the, i. 35Singi-buk, camp at, ii.210Singi-chava, ii.212Singi-kabab, source of the Indus, ii.210,212Singi-tsangpo, or Indus, ii.210Singi-yüra, ii.212Singrul, camp at, i. 65Sirchung, village of, i. 425Skulls as drinking-vessels, Liktse-gompa, ii.75Sledges, on the Ngangtse-tso, i. 226Smallpox epidemic at Purang, ii.92“Snoring Kunchuk,” ii.299,333; new title for,379Snowstorm, a terrific, ii.269Sogbarong Tsering Tundup, Tibetan nomad, ii.288Soma-tsangpo, river, camp at, ii.380; journey along the,386Sonam Ngurbu, Governor of Chokchu, ii.399Sonamarg, bivouac at, i. 37Sonam Tsering, leader of advance caravan, i. 51; in charge of the mules, 72; points out Deasy’s depot, 129So valley, i. 284Source of the Brahmaputra, ii.96,101; of the Sutlej,129,153,180; of the Indus,212Spanglung valley, camp near, i. 78Spittol monastery, i. 45Sports, Tibetan, i. 341-345Srinagar, scenery of journey to, i. 22; arrival at, 23; dinner-table talk about author, 24; interview with the Maharaja of Kashmir’s private secretary, 24; fête at, 27; equipment of caravan, 28; departure from, 30; puppies taken from, 34; plates and rock specimens sent to, 103Srong Tsan Ganpo, wives of, i. 333Stagna-gompa monastery, i. 63Stockholm, departure from, i. 4Stok, the Raja of, letter of recommendation from, i. 57, 298Stokpa, village of, i. 57Stoliczka, Dr., monument in Leh, i. 59Stone, impressions in, i. 337, 406Storm, a thirty-days’, ii.283ff.Sulphur springs, Chuta district, i. 82; in Porung valley, 269; at the Chunit-tso, ii.323Sultak, i. 67Sumdang-tsangpo, river, ii.398Sun, eclipse of the, i. 252Sung-chu, river, ii.181Surnge-la pass, ii.400Sur-la pass, ii.393Sutlej, the, source of, ii.129,153,180,188; old bed of,181; Tibetan name of, and assertions regarding its origin,182; translation of Chinese extract as to its source,183; its source and that of the Tage-tsangpo the same,184,188; accuracy of Chi Chao Nan’s statements regarding,185; Colonel Burrard on drainage area of,187Tabie-tsaka, lake, salt-caravans from, ii.64,323; location of the,322; view of,392Tagar, village of, i. 64Tage-bup valley, ii.105Tage-tsangpo river, ii.105,107; measurements of,129; its source that of the Sutlej,184,188Tagla Tsering, chief of Sangge-ngamo-buk, visit from, ii.383Tagrak-tsangpo, river, i. 261, 264Tagramoche district, bivouac in, ii.105Takbur district, high-handed behaviour of chief of, ii.49,50; abundance of game in,50Takbur-la pass, ii.50Takkar, our Tibetan dog, ii.305,307,319; his antipathy to Tibetans,322,377; devours wolf-cub,399; returns to Poo,418Takyung Lama, abbot of Mendong-gompa, ii.315,318Ta-la, or “Horse Pass,” view from, i. 278Talkan, or roasted meal, i. 53Tambak valley, ii.84Tamchok-kamba (Brahmaputra), river, i. 403, 417Tamlung-la pass, important watershed of, ii.104,129Tamlung-tso, lake, ii.104Tanak (Black Horse) valley, camp in, i. 286, 403Tanak-puchu valley, i. 286Tang Darin.SeeChang Yin TangTangna, village of, i. 417Tang-yung province, Tibetan visitors from, i. 212, 214Tang-yung-tsaka, lake, i. 208Tanjur, one of the two Tibetan Bibles, i. 412Tanka, or pictorial banner, i. 318Tankse, auxiliary horses hired from, i. 50, 67; camp and rest at, 67; festivities in caravan at, 68; men from, petition to be allowed to return home, 102; parting with my Ladakis at, ii.225Tankse, river, i. 67Tarbung-la pass, ii.25Tarchen-labrang, ii.190,198,202Targo-gangri, view of the, ii.20,22,381; glaciers of,25,32Targo-tsangpo, river, ii.21; valley of,22; our progress stopped at the,26; terraces of,26,30Targot-la pass, ii.30Targyaling-gompa monastery, camp below, ii.64; intolerant behaviour of lamas of,65; plundered by robbers,315Tarmatse-tso, lake, i. 214Tarok-tso, lake, position of, ii.325; described,391Tarpoche, or votive pole, i. 280Tarting-choro, village of, i. 404Tarting-gompa monastery, i. 283, 405; sepulchres of high priests of, 406; preparations for deceased lama’s funeral pyre at, 407; reflections on monastic life, 408Tasam, or high-road, ii.41Tasang-la pass, ii.84Tashi, despatched to Shigatse, ii.42; his return and adventures,71Tashi-gembe monastery, i. 218, 411; the two Tibetan Bibles in, 412; temples of, 412; incongruous European figures in, 413; prayer-cylinders in, 413; brilliant colouring of, 414Tashi Lama, the, increased prestige of, i. 307, 323; kindness to us at New Year Festival, 310; my visit to, 317; dress and general appearance of, 319; his kindly reception of author, 319; intelligence and shrewd questions of, 320, 354; his pleasant recollections of visit to India, 321; widespread power of, 322; previous visits of Europeans to, 322; attributes and functions of the Dalai Lama and, 323; favours granted to author by, 324; medicine-chest presented to, 325; ineffaceable impressions left by, 325, 355; ceremonies observed on the approaching death of a, 327; method of choosing his successor, 327; mausoleums of previous Tashi Lamas, 330; record length of service of first, 331; visit of third Tashi Lama to Pekin, 334; footprint of, 337; photograph taken of, 354; presents gifts to author, 355; rigidly prescribed life of, 356; his anxious questioning of author, 392; farewell greetings from, 402Tashi-lunpo, New Year Festival in, i. 301-316; a cloister town, 330; the Labrang, 330; aerial street system in, 330; mausoleums of earlier Tashi Lamas, 330-338; date of foundation, 331; library of, 333; temple of Tsong Kapa, 335; a sacred staircase, 337; clerical tailors in, 348; religious ceremonies witnessed, 348 ff.; grades and numbers of monks, 351, 352; bells of, 351; nuns and pilgrims in, 353, 356; author’s interview with the Tashi Lama, 354; pilgrims’ devotional exercises in, 357; sources of income, 358; monks’ life in, 358, 366; prayer-mills of, 360; tea a favourite beverage in, 359, 361; kitchen of, 361; the walling-up of certain monks, 363; the Dena-lhakang temple, 365; manufacture of images, 367; funeral customs, 369; last visit to, 393Tayep-parva-la pass, ii.397Tea, Tibetan, i. 247; monks’ fondness for, in Tashi-lunpo, 359; enormous infusions of, 361Tea-pots, costly, i. 350Teheran, Christmas 1905 spent in, ii.248Tela-mata-la pass, ii.397Telegrams to British Prime Minister, i. 8, 390Temperature, sudden change of, i. 75; records of low, 155, 173, 199, 207, 258, 274; lowest recorded by author in Asia, ii.259Temple, lama, i. 42Tenga, Tibetan coin, i. 56Teri-nam-tso, “the heavenly lake,” ii.381; its salinity,384; journey along southern shore,384; different pronunciations, and meaning of the name,384; extent of, and height above sea-level,384Terkung-rung valley, Lhasa caravan in, i. 270; importance of road through, 270Teta-la pass, view from, ii.380Thakur Jai Chand, Gartok, ii.107,215,417; provisions and letters from,144Thirteen, the number, prominence of, in author’s journey, i. 20, 249; ii. 236Thirty-days’ storm, a, ii.283ff.Tibetan Government, the, vindictive treatment of the Governor of Naktsang by, i. 243, 251, 376; proclamation on retiral of British expedition, 245; author visited by two officials from, 375, 376; system of spies, 379; orders to author to leave the country, 388; increased stringency of, regarding Europeans, ii.356Tibetan language, author’s lessons in, ii.277Tigu-tang, dangerous roadway of, i. 430Tikze, monastery and village of, i. 61; camp at, 62Ting-la pass, view from, ii.22Tirtapuri monastery, parting with followers at, ii.416Titles, high-sounding, applied to author, ii.393Toa-nadsum, bivouac at, i. 262Tokchen, the Gova of, ii.107,110; caravan reduced at,107; valley of,110; return to,400; departure from,415Tok-jonsung, bivouac at, ii.91Tokpas, Tibetan gold-diggers, i. 189Tombs of the Tashi Lamas, i. 330-338Tong, the Gova of, i. 424Tong-tso, bivouac on shore of the, ii.302Tongue, protrusion of the, Tibetan salutation, i. 240, 280, 429Tooth, Mr. Lucas, the last European seen by author for two years, i. 71Topelius, Christmas song of the poet, quoted, i. 219Tormakaru, mountain, i. 264Torno-shapko, unfriendliness of nomads at, i. 217Totling-gompa monastery, news from the outer world at, ii.416Tova-tova, district of, i. 262Tradum, the Gova of, ii.60,69,70,73,83; camp at village of,72; excursion from,73Tradum-gompa monastery, ii.73; hermit’s dwelling at,73Trans-Himalaya, the, author’s first crossing of, i. 268; geographical and climatic importance of, 273; ii.20,35; approach to main crest of,13; second crossing of,19; third crossing,35; fourth and fifth crossings of,209,215; sixth crossing,239; its unbroken continuance proved,330; seventh and eighth crossings,377,400; previous attempts to map out, and books treating of,401-405; Ryder and Wood’s bearings of,405; statement regarding wall-maps in Venice,406; principal passes of,408; previously unknown passes crossed by author,409; length and breadth of, and average height of passes,410; general comparison of, with the Himalayan system,410; author’s reason for use of name,412; opinions for and against the title,412,413Treaty, new, between Great Britain and Russia, ii.221Tree, miraculous, in Kum-bum monastery, i. 335Tsa-chu-tsangpo, river, junction with upper Brahmaputra, ii.74Tsaktserkan, author’s official attendant in Shigatse, i. 302, 353Tsalam-nakta-la pass, ii.376Tsamba, or parched meal, i. 215Tsangpo (upper Brahmaputra), river, i. 284; formation and fertility of valley, 284, 285; varying nomenclature of, 287; description of boats on, 288; varied scenery of, 290, 293; day-dreams on, 291; pilgrim parties on, 292, 293; dust-storms, 402, 403Tsasa-la pass, ii.75Tsechung-tso, lake, ii.95Tsepagmed, seated figure of Buddha, i. 355Tsering, cook to author, i. 152; loquacity of, 157, 161; vocal powers of, ii.13Tsering Dava, Tibetan nomad, i. 189, 191Tseti-la pass, ii.208Tseti-lachen-la pass, ii.209Tso, district of, ii.80Tso-kharki-tsangpo, river, ii.80Tso-mavang.SeeManasarowarTsong Kapa, temple of, in Tashi-lunpo, i. 335, 362; reforms Lamaism and introduces monastic celibacy, 335Tsongpun Tashi, merchant from Lhasa, ii.308,311; purchases from,315; visits our camp,316; his suspicions,317Tso-niti, pools of, ii.93Tso-niti-kargang pass, ii.92Tso-nyak, lake, ii.106Tso-ri, or “Lake Mountain,” the, i. 219Tsotot-karpo, lake, ii.83Tsukchung-chang pass, i. 417Tsumtul-pu monastery, bivouac on roof of, ii.202Tubges, huntsman to caravan, ii.323Tugden-gompa monastery, i. 409; statues in, 410Tugri-la pass, ii.103Tugu-gompa monastery, ii.130; wool-market at,130; interesting picture in,131; shrine of lake-god in,131; monks’ offering to their god on author’s behalf,145; translation of inscription in,154Tugu-lhamo, height, i. 206Tuksum, the Gova of, ii.86; grants permission to author to travel on south side of river,87Tumsang valley, i. 268Tundup Sonam, huntsman to caravan, i. 131, 139, 144, 150, 154, 164, 191; despatched to Shigatse, ii.42; his return and adventures,71Turkestan, Eastern, ostensible object of expedition, i. 23, 25; passport for, requested from Swedish Minister in London, 25Tuta, camp at, ii.389Tuto-pukpa, mountain, ii.72Tynchung valley, camp in, ii.104Ugyu, Tibetan youth, his wonderful recovery from bullet-wound, ii.46Ujam-tso, lake, ii.85Umbo district, camp in the, ii.91Ushy, village of, ii.361Ushy-la pass, ii.361Utensils, Tibetan domestic, ii.15Vezir Vezarat, the, i. 41; author’s headquarters in house of, at Leh, 45Viceregal Lodge, Simla, State functions in, i. 12, 17; ii.420; author’s quarters in, i. 13; ii.420; description of, i. 14Vultures, abandonment of Tibetan dead to the, i. 371; ii.11Waddell, work on Buddhism by, cited, i. 329n.; opinion on monastic seclusion, ii.9; on Tibetan sacred formula,204Wakkha, river, i. 41Walker, Dr. Gilbert, Simla, presents from, ii.223Wallenberg, Herr G. O., Swedish Ambassador in Pekin, i. 391Wall-paintings in Tugu-gompa, ii.130Weather, Tibetan, i. 74, 88, 90, 160Webber, Thomas, on sources of the Brahmaputra, ii.89Whisky, a tonic for mules, ii.260,264“Wilderness, the call of the,” i. 1Wolves, persistency of, i. 143, 168, 178, 198Women, descriptions of Shigatse, i. 380; uniform dirtiness of, 353, 380Wool-market in Tugu-gompa, ii.130Wrangel, Count, Swedish Minister in London, passport requested from, i. 25, 299Yaks, as beasts of burden, i. 75, 183, 198; ii.64,323,329; abundance of wild, i. 173; Rehim Ali’s adventure with a, 176Yalloa-champa, holy apartment in Tashi-lunpo, i. 332Yamba, lieutenant to chief of Tarok-shung, ii.390Yamchuk, village of, ii.80Yamchuk-pu valley, ii.80Yanggo-gompa monastery, ii.129,132Yapkak, plant used as forage and fuel, i. 83, 91Yere-tsangpo, river, i. 281Yeshil-kul, lake, view of, i. 119; antelope-traps at, 119; intense saltness of, 120; soundings on, 120; choice between shipwreck and wolves, 122; storm on, 124; a freezing night, 125; Deasy’s depot discovered by Rawling, 129; previous travellers’ visits, 130Ye-shung valley, camp in, i. 281, 409; monasteries in, 411Yildan, hunters from, ii.275Yimba Tashi, abbot of Linga-gompa, i. 431Younghusband, Sir Francis, welcomes author to Simla, i. 6; expedition to Lhasa referred to, 11; parting with, 20; letter as to passport from, 26; recommends Muhamed Isa to author, 30, 46Yulgunluk, ii.235Yumba-matsen, ii.215Yungchen, order of priesthood, i. 351Zambul,numberdarof Pobrang, i. 73, 87Zoji-la pass, difficulties of caravan in the, i. 38Zugmayer, Austrian naturalist, i. 130
Shapka, camp at, ii.95
Shapku-chu stream, ii.97
Shargul, lama temple at, i. 42
Shar-tso, lake, ii.306
Shawe, Dr., Leh, i. 54
Sheep, return of our missing, i. 165; wild, 174; ii. 252, 310, 380; used as pack-animals, 289, 334
Sheep-driving, author’s inaptitude for, ii.299
Shemen-tso, lake, camp at, ii.270; journey along,272
Sherring, Mr. C. A., ii.128; kindness of, and Mrs.,144
Sheryak, camp in, ii.92
Shey monastery, i. 61
Shialung valley, camp near, ii.236
Shib-la-yilung valley, i. 271
Shigatse, arrival at, i. 295; interview with commander of Chinese garrison, 296; remains of caravan at, 297; visited by Tibetan officials at, 298; impression made by my Chinese passport, 299; permission to attend New Year Festival in Tashi-lunpo, 299; description of Festival, 301-315; return Ma Daloi’s visit, 315; arrangements for visit to the Tashi Lama, 316; architecture of, 340; Dzong of, 340, 377; sports-meeting at, 341-345; Chinese New Year celebration, 345; gruesome funeral customs, 370; Lhasa Government officials’ visit to me, 375; arrival of correspondence, 377; assistance rendered by Gulam Kadir, 377; market-place of, 378; system of espionage in, 379; sketches of women in, 380; variety of types and costumes, 382; visit to Kung Gushuk, 385; Chinese intrigues in, 390; review of my position, 394; sudden cordiality of authorities in, 398; formal council held, and my return route specified, 398; a canine interlude in, 399; preparations for departure from, 400; messengers despatched from Raga-tasam to, ii.42
Shipki, village of, ii.417
Shipki-la pass, farewell to Tibet from, ii.417
Shooting competitions, Tibetan, i. 343
Shovo-tso, lake, camp on shore of, ii.396
Shukkur Ali, uniform cheerfulness of, i. 52
Shuru-tso, lake, i. 216; ii.25; terraces of,33; unusual direction of,33; storm on,34; shape of,34
Shyok valley, wretched journey through the, ii.230-232; farewell festival in village,232; caravan derelicts in,237; canine happy event,238; enormous wastage of horses in,240,245; scarcity of provender,241; our complicated situation,242; miserable camping-places,242,246; Mohammedan hymn in,246
Simla, scenery of railway journey to, i. 5; arrival at, and welcome by Sir Francis Younghusband, 6; anxious moments in, 7; State functions in Viceregal Lodge, 12, 17; ii.420; rickshaws in, i. 17; Lord Kitchener’s house in, 18; ii.422; departure from, i. 20; return to, ii.420; residence in Viceregal Lodge, i. 13; ii.420; hospitality of Colonel Dunlop Smith and Lord Kitchener,420,422; lecture before the Viceregal Court,421; good-bye to my Ladakis and Little Puppy in,422
Sind, valley of the, i. 35
Singi-buk, camp at, ii.210
Singi-chava, ii.212
Singi-kabab, source of the Indus, ii.210,212
Singi-tsangpo, or Indus, ii.210
Singi-yüra, ii.212
Singrul, camp at, i. 65
Sirchung, village of, i. 425
Skulls as drinking-vessels, Liktse-gompa, ii.75
Sledges, on the Ngangtse-tso, i. 226
Smallpox epidemic at Purang, ii.92
“Snoring Kunchuk,” ii.299,333; new title for,379
Snowstorm, a terrific, ii.269
Sogbarong Tsering Tundup, Tibetan nomad, ii.288
Soma-tsangpo, river, camp at, ii.380; journey along the,386
Sonam Ngurbu, Governor of Chokchu, ii.399
Sonamarg, bivouac at, i. 37
Sonam Tsering, leader of advance caravan, i. 51; in charge of the mules, 72; points out Deasy’s depot, 129
So valley, i. 284
Source of the Brahmaputra, ii.96,101; of the Sutlej,129,153,180; of the Indus,212
Spanglung valley, camp near, i. 78
Spittol monastery, i. 45
Sports, Tibetan, i. 341-345
Srinagar, scenery of journey to, i. 22; arrival at, 23; dinner-table talk about author, 24; interview with the Maharaja of Kashmir’s private secretary, 24; fête at, 27; equipment of caravan, 28; departure from, 30; puppies taken from, 34; plates and rock specimens sent to, 103
Srong Tsan Ganpo, wives of, i. 333
Stagna-gompa monastery, i. 63
Stockholm, departure from, i. 4
Stok, the Raja of, letter of recommendation from, i. 57, 298
Stokpa, village of, i. 57
Stoliczka, Dr., monument in Leh, i. 59
Stone, impressions in, i. 337, 406
Storm, a thirty-days’, ii.283ff.
Sulphur springs, Chuta district, i. 82; in Porung valley, 269; at the Chunit-tso, ii.323
Sultak, i. 67
Sumdang-tsangpo, river, ii.398
Sun, eclipse of the, i. 252
Sung-chu, river, ii.181
Surnge-la pass, ii.400
Sur-la pass, ii.393
Sutlej, the, source of, ii.129,153,180,188; old bed of,181; Tibetan name of, and assertions regarding its origin,182; translation of Chinese extract as to its source,183; its source and that of the Tage-tsangpo the same,184,188; accuracy of Chi Chao Nan’s statements regarding,185; Colonel Burrard on drainage area of,187
Tabie-tsaka, lake, salt-caravans from, ii.64,323; location of the,322; view of,392
Tagar, village of, i. 64
Tage-bup valley, ii.105
Tage-tsangpo river, ii.105,107; measurements of,129; its source that of the Sutlej,184,188
Tagla Tsering, chief of Sangge-ngamo-buk, visit from, ii.383
Tagrak-tsangpo, river, i. 261, 264
Tagramoche district, bivouac in, ii.105
Takbur district, high-handed behaviour of chief of, ii.49,50; abundance of game in,50
Takbur-la pass, ii.50
Takkar, our Tibetan dog, ii.305,307,319; his antipathy to Tibetans,322,377; devours wolf-cub,399; returns to Poo,418
Takyung Lama, abbot of Mendong-gompa, ii.315,318
Ta-la, or “Horse Pass,” view from, i. 278
Talkan, or roasted meal, i. 53
Tambak valley, ii.84
Tamchok-kamba (Brahmaputra), river, i. 403, 417
Tamlung-la pass, important watershed of, ii.104,129
Tamlung-tso, lake, ii.104
Tanak (Black Horse) valley, camp in, i. 286, 403
Tanak-puchu valley, i. 286
Tang Darin.SeeChang Yin Tang
Tangna, village of, i. 417
Tang-yung province, Tibetan visitors from, i. 212, 214
Tang-yung-tsaka, lake, i. 208
Tanjur, one of the two Tibetan Bibles, i. 412
Tanka, or pictorial banner, i. 318
Tankse, auxiliary horses hired from, i. 50, 67; camp and rest at, 67; festivities in caravan at, 68; men from, petition to be allowed to return home, 102; parting with my Ladakis at, ii.225
Tankse, river, i. 67
Tarbung-la pass, ii.25
Tarchen-labrang, ii.190,198,202
Targo-gangri, view of the, ii.20,22,381; glaciers of,25,32
Targo-tsangpo, river, ii.21; valley of,22; our progress stopped at the,26; terraces of,26,30
Targot-la pass, ii.30
Targyaling-gompa monastery, camp below, ii.64; intolerant behaviour of lamas of,65; plundered by robbers,315
Tarmatse-tso, lake, i. 214
Tarok-tso, lake, position of, ii.325; described,391
Tarpoche, or votive pole, i. 280
Tarting-choro, village of, i. 404
Tarting-gompa monastery, i. 283, 405; sepulchres of high priests of, 406; preparations for deceased lama’s funeral pyre at, 407; reflections on monastic life, 408
Tasam, or high-road, ii.41
Tasang-la pass, ii.84
Tashi, despatched to Shigatse, ii.42; his return and adventures,71
Tashi-gembe monastery, i. 218, 411; the two Tibetan Bibles in, 412; temples of, 412; incongruous European figures in, 413; prayer-cylinders in, 413; brilliant colouring of, 414
Tashi Lama, the, increased prestige of, i. 307, 323; kindness to us at New Year Festival, 310; my visit to, 317; dress and general appearance of, 319; his kindly reception of author, 319; intelligence and shrewd questions of, 320, 354; his pleasant recollections of visit to India, 321; widespread power of, 322; previous visits of Europeans to, 322; attributes and functions of the Dalai Lama and, 323; favours granted to author by, 324; medicine-chest presented to, 325; ineffaceable impressions left by, 325, 355; ceremonies observed on the approaching death of a, 327; method of choosing his successor, 327; mausoleums of previous Tashi Lamas, 330; record length of service of first, 331; visit of third Tashi Lama to Pekin, 334; footprint of, 337; photograph taken of, 354; presents gifts to author, 355; rigidly prescribed life of, 356; his anxious questioning of author, 392; farewell greetings from, 402
Tashi-lunpo, New Year Festival in, i. 301-316; a cloister town, 330; the Labrang, 330; aerial street system in, 330; mausoleums of earlier Tashi Lamas, 330-338; date of foundation, 331; library of, 333; temple of Tsong Kapa, 335; a sacred staircase, 337; clerical tailors in, 348; religious ceremonies witnessed, 348 ff.; grades and numbers of monks, 351, 352; bells of, 351; nuns and pilgrims in, 353, 356; author’s interview with the Tashi Lama, 354; pilgrims’ devotional exercises in, 357; sources of income, 358; monks’ life in, 358, 366; prayer-mills of, 360; tea a favourite beverage in, 359, 361; kitchen of, 361; the walling-up of certain monks, 363; the Dena-lhakang temple, 365; manufacture of images, 367; funeral customs, 369; last visit to, 393
Tayep-parva-la pass, ii.397
Tea, Tibetan, i. 247; monks’ fondness for, in Tashi-lunpo, 359; enormous infusions of, 361
Tea-pots, costly, i. 350
Teheran, Christmas 1905 spent in, ii.248
Tela-mata-la pass, ii.397
Telegrams to British Prime Minister, i. 8, 390
Temperature, sudden change of, i. 75; records of low, 155, 173, 199, 207, 258, 274; lowest recorded by author in Asia, ii.259
Temple, lama, i. 42
Tenga, Tibetan coin, i. 56
Teri-nam-tso, “the heavenly lake,” ii.381; its salinity,384; journey along southern shore,384; different pronunciations, and meaning of the name,384; extent of, and height above sea-level,384
Terkung-rung valley, Lhasa caravan in, i. 270; importance of road through, 270
Teta-la pass, view from, ii.380
Thakur Jai Chand, Gartok, ii.107,215,417; provisions and letters from,144
Thirteen, the number, prominence of, in author’s journey, i. 20, 249; ii. 236
Thirty-days’ storm, a, ii.283ff.
Tibetan Government, the, vindictive treatment of the Governor of Naktsang by, i. 243, 251, 376; proclamation on retiral of British expedition, 245; author visited by two officials from, 375, 376; system of spies, 379; orders to author to leave the country, 388; increased stringency of, regarding Europeans, ii.356
Tibetan language, author’s lessons in, ii.277
Tigu-tang, dangerous roadway of, i. 430
Tikze, monastery and village of, i. 61; camp at, 62
Ting-la pass, view from, ii.22
Tirtapuri monastery, parting with followers at, ii.416
Titles, high-sounding, applied to author, ii.393
Toa-nadsum, bivouac at, i. 262
Tokchen, the Gova of, ii.107,110; caravan reduced at,107; valley of,110; return to,400; departure from,415
Tok-jonsung, bivouac at, ii.91
Tokpas, Tibetan gold-diggers, i. 189
Tombs of the Tashi Lamas, i. 330-338
Tong, the Gova of, i. 424
Tong-tso, bivouac on shore of the, ii.302
Tongue, protrusion of the, Tibetan salutation, i. 240, 280, 429
Tooth, Mr. Lucas, the last European seen by author for two years, i. 71
Topelius, Christmas song of the poet, quoted, i. 219
Tormakaru, mountain, i. 264
Torno-shapko, unfriendliness of nomads at, i. 217
Totling-gompa monastery, news from the outer world at, ii.416
Tova-tova, district of, i. 262
Tradum, the Gova of, ii.60,69,70,73,83; camp at village of,72; excursion from,73
Tradum-gompa monastery, ii.73; hermit’s dwelling at,73
Trans-Himalaya, the, author’s first crossing of, i. 268; geographical and climatic importance of, 273; ii.20,35; approach to main crest of,13; second crossing of,19; third crossing,35; fourth and fifth crossings of,209,215; sixth crossing,239; its unbroken continuance proved,330; seventh and eighth crossings,377,400; previous attempts to map out, and books treating of,401-405; Ryder and Wood’s bearings of,405; statement regarding wall-maps in Venice,406; principal passes of,408; previously unknown passes crossed by author,409; length and breadth of, and average height of passes,410; general comparison of, with the Himalayan system,410; author’s reason for use of name,412; opinions for and against the title,412,413
Treaty, new, between Great Britain and Russia, ii.221
Tree, miraculous, in Kum-bum monastery, i. 335
Tsa-chu-tsangpo, river, junction with upper Brahmaputra, ii.74
Tsaktserkan, author’s official attendant in Shigatse, i. 302, 353
Tsalam-nakta-la pass, ii.376
Tsamba, or parched meal, i. 215
Tsangpo (upper Brahmaputra), river, i. 284; formation and fertility of valley, 284, 285; varying nomenclature of, 287; description of boats on, 288; varied scenery of, 290, 293; day-dreams on, 291; pilgrim parties on, 292, 293; dust-storms, 402, 403
Tsasa-la pass, ii.75
Tsechung-tso, lake, ii.95
Tsepagmed, seated figure of Buddha, i. 355
Tsering, cook to author, i. 152; loquacity of, 157, 161; vocal powers of, ii.13
Tsering Dava, Tibetan nomad, i. 189, 191
Tseti-la pass, ii.208
Tseti-lachen-la pass, ii.209
Tso, district of, ii.80
Tso-kharki-tsangpo, river, ii.80
Tso-mavang.SeeManasarowar
Tsong Kapa, temple of, in Tashi-lunpo, i. 335, 362; reforms Lamaism and introduces monastic celibacy, 335
Tsongpun Tashi, merchant from Lhasa, ii.308,311; purchases from,315; visits our camp,316; his suspicions,317
Tso-niti, pools of, ii.93
Tso-niti-kargang pass, ii.92
Tso-nyak, lake, ii.106
Tso-ri, or “Lake Mountain,” the, i. 219
Tsotot-karpo, lake, ii.83
Tsukchung-chang pass, i. 417
Tsumtul-pu monastery, bivouac on roof of, ii.202
Tubges, huntsman to caravan, ii.323
Tugden-gompa monastery, i. 409; statues in, 410
Tugri-la pass, ii.103
Tugu-gompa monastery, ii.130; wool-market at,130; interesting picture in,131; shrine of lake-god in,131; monks’ offering to their god on author’s behalf,145; translation of inscription in,154
Tugu-lhamo, height, i. 206
Tuksum, the Gova of, ii.86; grants permission to author to travel on south side of river,87
Tumsang valley, i. 268
Tundup Sonam, huntsman to caravan, i. 131, 139, 144, 150, 154, 164, 191; despatched to Shigatse, ii.42; his return and adventures,71
Turkestan, Eastern, ostensible object of expedition, i. 23, 25; passport for, requested from Swedish Minister in London, 25
Tuta, camp at, ii.389
Tuto-pukpa, mountain, ii.72
Tynchung valley, camp in, ii.104
Ugyu, Tibetan youth, his wonderful recovery from bullet-wound, ii.46
Ujam-tso, lake, ii.85
Umbo district, camp in the, ii.91
Ushy, village of, ii.361
Ushy-la pass, ii.361
Utensils, Tibetan domestic, ii.15
Vezir Vezarat, the, i. 41; author’s headquarters in house of, at Leh, 45
Viceregal Lodge, Simla, State functions in, i. 12, 17; ii.420; author’s quarters in, i. 13; ii.420; description of, i. 14
Vultures, abandonment of Tibetan dead to the, i. 371; ii.11
Waddell, work on Buddhism by, cited, i. 329n.; opinion on monastic seclusion, ii.9; on Tibetan sacred formula,204
Wakkha, river, i. 41
Walker, Dr. Gilbert, Simla, presents from, ii.223
Wallenberg, Herr G. O., Swedish Ambassador in Pekin, i. 391
Wall-paintings in Tugu-gompa, ii.130
Weather, Tibetan, i. 74, 88, 90, 160
Webber, Thomas, on sources of the Brahmaputra, ii.89
Whisky, a tonic for mules, ii.260,264
“Wilderness, the call of the,” i. 1
Wolves, persistency of, i. 143, 168, 178, 198
Women, descriptions of Shigatse, i. 380; uniform dirtiness of, 353, 380
Wool-market in Tugu-gompa, ii.130
Wrangel, Count, Swedish Minister in London, passport requested from, i. 25, 299
Yaks, as beasts of burden, i. 75, 183, 198; ii.64,323,329; abundance of wild, i. 173; Rehim Ali’s adventure with a, 176
Yalloa-champa, holy apartment in Tashi-lunpo, i. 332
Yamba, lieutenant to chief of Tarok-shung, ii.390
Yamchuk, village of, ii.80
Yamchuk-pu valley, ii.80
Yanggo-gompa monastery, ii.129,132
Yapkak, plant used as forage and fuel, i. 83, 91
Yere-tsangpo, river, i. 281
Yeshil-kul, lake, view of, i. 119; antelope-traps at, 119; intense saltness of, 120; soundings on, 120; choice between shipwreck and wolves, 122; storm on, 124; a freezing night, 125; Deasy’s depot discovered by Rawling, 129; previous travellers’ visits, 130
Ye-shung valley, camp in, i. 281, 409; monasteries in, 411
Yildan, hunters from, ii.275
Yimba Tashi, abbot of Linga-gompa, i. 431
Younghusband, Sir Francis, welcomes author to Simla, i. 6; expedition to Lhasa referred to, 11; parting with, 20; letter as to passport from, 26; recommends Muhamed Isa to author, 30, 46
Yulgunluk, ii.235
Yumba-matsen, ii.215
Yungchen, order of priesthood, i. 351
Zambul,numberdarof Pobrang, i. 73, 87
Zoji-la pass, difficulties of caravan in the, i. 38
Zugmayer, Austrian naturalist, i. 130