CONTENTSOFTHE FIRST VOLUME.CHAPTER I.LAHORE.PageDeparture from Delhi.—Communication from Runjeet Sing.—Himalaya.—Villages on the Sutlege: People.—Banks of the Sutlege.—Physical Phenomena of Rivers.—Altars of Alexander.—Enter the Punjab.—Our Welcome chanted.—Civilities at Hurree.—Seik Fanatics.—Manja; country so called.—Antient Canals.—Town of Puttee.—Stud of Horses at Puttee.—An Acali, or Fanatic.—A Seik Chief and his Castle.—Famous Road of Juhangeer.—Enter Lahore.—Visit the Maharaja.—Earthquake at Lahore.—Join Runjeet Sing in the Field.—Description of his Camp.—Runjeet Sing marching.—Conversations of Runjeet Sing.—Superb Cashmere Tents.—A Visit from the Physician-general.—Runjeet Sing sporting.—Conversations of Runjeet Sing.—Return to Lahore.—Festival of the Busunt, or Spring.—Entertainment by the Maharaja.—Preparations for our Journey.—Kindness of Messrs. Allard and Court.—Audience of Leave.—Mons. Court’s Instructions1-38CHAP. II.ACROSS THE PUNJAB TO THE INDUS.Quit Lahore.—Reduction of Baggage.—Arrangements.—Garden described.—Himalaya.—Reach the Chenab or Acesines.—Soil and Wells.—Sugar.—A Seik Chief.—Seiks: Peculiarities of the Tribe.—Cross the Chenab.—Diseases: Opinions regarding them.—Cross the Jelum, or Hydaspes.—Arrival at Pind Dadun Khan.—Antiquities.—Salt Mines of Pind Dadun Khan.—Position of the Salt Range.—Formation, &c.—Mines, Strata, Temperature.—Manner of working the Salt.—Its Quality.—Supply of the Mineral.—Banks of the Hydaspes.—Villages.—Scene of Porus’s Battle.—Extensive Ruins.—Speculations.—Nicæ and Bucephalia.—Porus’s Army compared with Runjeet Sing’s.—Floating Islands.—Costume of the Ladies.—Arrival at Rotas.—Fortress.—Nature and Formation of Rocks.—Tope of Manikyala.—Coins and Antiques.—Manikyala identified with Taxilla.—Rawil Pindee.—Marks of quitting India.—Hurdwar Pilgrims: Reflections on seeing them.—Seik Priest.—Pass of Margulla.—Tope of Belur.—Garden of Hoosn Abdall.—See the Indus.—Encamp on the Indus.—Ford it.—Story of a Soldier.—Attok.—Phenomenon at Attok.—Washing Gold39-80CHAP. III.PESHAWUR.Entrance into the Country of the Afghans.—Precautionary Arrangements.—Farewell Letter to Runjeet Sing.—Salt Monopoly.—Fields of Battle.—Entrance into Peshawur.—Afghan Entertainment.—Visitors.—Ride out with the Chief.—His Character.—Afghan manner of spending Friday.—Horrible Spectacle.—Brother of the Chief.—Arrangements for our Advance.—The Chief and his Court.—Visitors.—Juvenile Intelligence.—Rambles in Peshawur.—Quail fighting.—Hawking.—Moollah Nujeeb.—A Saint.—Disadvantages of giving Medicine.—Antiquities.—Conclusions regarding the “Topes.”—Preparations for Departure.—Maître d’Hôtel of the Chief81-111CHAP. IV.JOURNEY TO CABOOL.Departure from Peshawur.—Khyberees.—Passage of the Cabool River.—Caravan.—Scene in the Cabool River.—Mountains.—Formation of the Hills.—Interview with a Momund Chief.—Civility of a Khyberee.—Incident.—Pestilential Wind.—Antiquities.—Julalabad.—Snowy Mountains.—Bala-bagh.—Treatment by the People.—Gundamuk.—Cold Countries.—Neemla.—Manner of keeping Horses.—Jugduluk.—Post-houses of the Emperors.—Wandering Ghiljees.—Pastoral Scenes.—Ispahan.—Story of Futtih Khan.—Pass of Luta-bund.—Arrival in Cabool.—Our Conductor, Mahommed Shureeff112-132CHAP. V.CABOOL.Arrival of Mr. Wolff.—Nawab Jubbar Khan.—Introduction to the Chief of Cabool.—Conversations.—Tomb of the Emperor Baber.—Prospect.—Intercourse with the People.—Cabool; its Bazars.—Traditions.—Coins.—Armenians.—Entertainment.—Gardens of Cabool.—Fruits and Wines.—Bala Hissar, or Prison.—Difference in Asiatic and European Manners.—Eed, or Festival.—Tomb of Timour Shah.—Alchymy and Minerals.—Freemasonry.—Jewish Origin of the Afghans; Opinions regarding it.—Party.—The Kaffirs, a singular People.—Preparations.—Shikarpooree Merchants.—Money Arrangements.—Civilisation by Commerce133-170CHAP. VI.JOURNEY OVER THE HINDOO KOOSH, OR SNOWY MOUNTAINS.Quit Cabool.—Cafila-bashee.—Contraband Korans.—Julraiz.—Valley of the Cabool River.—Fish Preserve.—Ghuzni.—Pass of Oonna.—Effects of Snow.—Family of Huzaras.—Goître.—Ali Illahi.—Yezdan Buksh Huzara.—Pass of Hajeeguk and Kaloo.—Mountain Scenery.—Bameean excavated City.—Idols of Bameean.—Geographical Errors.—Leave Afghanistan.—Uzbek Chief of Syghan.—Feelings on entering Tartary.—Pass of Dundan Shikun.—Ruhmut oollah Khan.—Uzbek Pity.—Mahommedan Law.—Companions.—Asiatic Opinions of Europe.—Pass of Kara Koottul.—Adventures.—Life of a Traveller.—Modes of Salutation.—Tremendous Defiles.—Poisonous Plant.—Heibuk reptiles.—Houses.—People.—Khooloom and Plains of Tartary171-206CHAP. VII.SERIOUS DIFFICULTIES.—JOURNEY TO KOONDOOZ.Difficulties at Khooloom.—Sketch of Moorcroft’s disasters.—Departure for Koondooz.—Favourable Opportunity for escape.—Night Adventure.—My Account of myself.—Imbecility of our Conductor.—Visiters, manner of Tea-drinking.—Traditions of Alexander the Great.—Interview with the Chief of Koondooz.—Incidents illustrative of Uzbek Character.—Koondooz; its Chief.—Departure from Koondooz.—Quit Khooloom.—Avaricious Conduct of our Conductor.—Dangers of the Road to Balkh.—Mirage.—Muzar.—Tomb of Mr. Trebeck.—Arrival at Balkh.—Intelligence of the Cafila-bashee207-236CHAP. VIII.BALKH, AND JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.Description of Balkh.—Climate.—Coins found at Balkh.—Cafila-bashee.—Grave of Mr. Moorcroft.—Quit Balkh.—Ancient Bactriana.—Correctness of Quintus Curtius.—Desert of the Toorkmuns.—Reach the Oxus.—Singular manner of crossing it.—The Caravan.—Kiz Kooduk.—A Khwaju.—Literature.—Amazons of Lakay.—Kirkinjuk.—A Slave.—Knotty Points.—Snowy Mountains.—Kurshee.—Sickness of our Party.—Alarms of a Traveller.—Letter to the Minister of Bokhara.—Kurshee.—Market at Karsan.—Uzbeks.—Abdoolla Khan; his Munificence.—Acquaintances.—Fatigues.—Reflections.—Arrival in Bokhara237-266CHAP. IX.BOKHARA.Change of Dress.—Visit the Minister.—Suspicions regarding us.—Description of the Registan, or great Bazar of Bokhara.—Employments in the Bazar.—Society at Bokhara.—Slave Bazar at Bokhara.—Offenders against Mahommedanism.—Hindoos.—A Wanderer.—An Indian Sepoy.—A pretty Fair One.—Costume.—Baths of Bokhara.—Interview with the Minister.—The King.—Life of a King.—Russian Slaves.—Acquaintances at Bokhara267-299CHAP. X.BOKHARA.The City of Bokhara.—Historical Sketch of it.—Colleges of Bokhara.—Rigour of Mahommedanism.—Literature of Central Asia.—Interview with the Vizier.—Samarcand.—Tomb of Bhawa Deen.—An Ancient City, Coins, &c.—An Uzbek Family.—Bokhara on Friday.—Arrangements.—Farewell Visit to the Vizier.—Departure300-329CHAP. XI.DETENTION IN THE KINGDOM OF BOKHARA.Detention of the Caravan.—Assemblage of Merchants.—Country between Bokhara and the Oxus.—Intercourse with the Toorkmuns.—A Toorkmun Acquaintance.—Ersaree Toorkmuns.—Slavery in Toorkistan.—Fellow-travellers.—Music.—Our own Party.—Ruins of Bykund.—Alexander’s Marches.—Reply from the Khan of Orgunje.—Uzbek Customs.—Preparations for Departure.—Receive Letters from India.—Reflections330-356
CHAPTER I.LAHORE.PageDeparture from Delhi.—Communication from Runjeet Sing.—Himalaya.—Villages on the Sutlege: People.—Banks of the Sutlege.—Physical Phenomena of Rivers.—Altars of Alexander.—Enter the Punjab.—Our Welcome chanted.—Civilities at Hurree.—Seik Fanatics.—Manja; country so called.—Antient Canals.—Town of Puttee.—Stud of Horses at Puttee.—An Acali, or Fanatic.—A Seik Chief and his Castle.—Famous Road of Juhangeer.—Enter Lahore.—Visit the Maharaja.—Earthquake at Lahore.—Join Runjeet Sing in the Field.—Description of his Camp.—Runjeet Sing marching.—Conversations of Runjeet Sing.—Superb Cashmere Tents.—A Visit from the Physician-general.—Runjeet Sing sporting.—Conversations of Runjeet Sing.—Return to Lahore.—Festival of the Busunt, or Spring.—Entertainment by the Maharaja.—Preparations for our Journey.—Kindness of Messrs. Allard and Court.—Audience of Leave.—Mons. Court’s Instructions1-38CHAP. II.ACROSS THE PUNJAB TO THE INDUS.Quit Lahore.—Reduction of Baggage.—Arrangements.—Garden described.—Himalaya.—Reach the Chenab or Acesines.—Soil and Wells.—Sugar.—A Seik Chief.—Seiks: Peculiarities of the Tribe.—Cross the Chenab.—Diseases: Opinions regarding them.—Cross the Jelum, or Hydaspes.—Arrival at Pind Dadun Khan.—Antiquities.—Salt Mines of Pind Dadun Khan.—Position of the Salt Range.—Formation, &c.—Mines, Strata, Temperature.—Manner of working the Salt.—Its Quality.—Supply of the Mineral.—Banks of the Hydaspes.—Villages.—Scene of Porus’s Battle.—Extensive Ruins.—Speculations.—Nicæ and Bucephalia.—Porus’s Army compared with Runjeet Sing’s.—Floating Islands.—Costume of the Ladies.—Arrival at Rotas.—Fortress.—Nature and Formation of Rocks.—Tope of Manikyala.—Coins and Antiques.—Manikyala identified with Taxilla.—Rawil Pindee.—Marks of quitting India.—Hurdwar Pilgrims: Reflections on seeing them.—Seik Priest.—Pass of Margulla.—Tope of Belur.—Garden of Hoosn Abdall.—See the Indus.—Encamp on the Indus.—Ford it.—Story of a Soldier.—Attok.—Phenomenon at Attok.—Washing Gold39-80CHAP. III.PESHAWUR.Entrance into the Country of the Afghans.—Precautionary Arrangements.—Farewell Letter to Runjeet Sing.—Salt Monopoly.—Fields of Battle.—Entrance into Peshawur.—Afghan Entertainment.—Visitors.—Ride out with the Chief.—His Character.—Afghan manner of spending Friday.—Horrible Spectacle.—Brother of the Chief.—Arrangements for our Advance.—The Chief and his Court.—Visitors.—Juvenile Intelligence.—Rambles in Peshawur.—Quail fighting.—Hawking.—Moollah Nujeeb.—A Saint.—Disadvantages of giving Medicine.—Antiquities.—Conclusions regarding the “Topes.”—Preparations for Departure.—Maître d’Hôtel of the Chief81-111CHAP. IV.JOURNEY TO CABOOL.Departure from Peshawur.—Khyberees.—Passage of the Cabool River.—Caravan.—Scene in the Cabool River.—Mountains.—Formation of the Hills.—Interview with a Momund Chief.—Civility of a Khyberee.—Incident.—Pestilential Wind.—Antiquities.—Julalabad.—Snowy Mountains.—Bala-bagh.—Treatment by the People.—Gundamuk.—Cold Countries.—Neemla.—Manner of keeping Horses.—Jugduluk.—Post-houses of the Emperors.—Wandering Ghiljees.—Pastoral Scenes.—Ispahan.—Story of Futtih Khan.—Pass of Luta-bund.—Arrival in Cabool.—Our Conductor, Mahommed Shureeff112-132CHAP. V.CABOOL.Arrival of Mr. Wolff.—Nawab Jubbar Khan.—Introduction to the Chief of Cabool.—Conversations.—Tomb of the Emperor Baber.—Prospect.—Intercourse with the People.—Cabool; its Bazars.—Traditions.—Coins.—Armenians.—Entertainment.—Gardens of Cabool.—Fruits and Wines.—Bala Hissar, or Prison.—Difference in Asiatic and European Manners.—Eed, or Festival.—Tomb of Timour Shah.—Alchymy and Minerals.—Freemasonry.—Jewish Origin of the Afghans; Opinions regarding it.—Party.—The Kaffirs, a singular People.—Preparations.—Shikarpooree Merchants.—Money Arrangements.—Civilisation by Commerce133-170CHAP. VI.JOURNEY OVER THE HINDOO KOOSH, OR SNOWY MOUNTAINS.Quit Cabool.—Cafila-bashee.—Contraband Korans.—Julraiz.—Valley of the Cabool River.—Fish Preserve.—Ghuzni.—Pass of Oonna.—Effects of Snow.—Family of Huzaras.—Goître.—Ali Illahi.—Yezdan Buksh Huzara.—Pass of Hajeeguk and Kaloo.—Mountain Scenery.—Bameean excavated City.—Idols of Bameean.—Geographical Errors.—Leave Afghanistan.—Uzbek Chief of Syghan.—Feelings on entering Tartary.—Pass of Dundan Shikun.—Ruhmut oollah Khan.—Uzbek Pity.—Mahommedan Law.—Companions.—Asiatic Opinions of Europe.—Pass of Kara Koottul.—Adventures.—Life of a Traveller.—Modes of Salutation.—Tremendous Defiles.—Poisonous Plant.—Heibuk reptiles.—Houses.—People.—Khooloom and Plains of Tartary171-206CHAP. VII.SERIOUS DIFFICULTIES.—JOURNEY TO KOONDOOZ.Difficulties at Khooloom.—Sketch of Moorcroft’s disasters.—Departure for Koondooz.—Favourable Opportunity for escape.—Night Adventure.—My Account of myself.—Imbecility of our Conductor.—Visiters, manner of Tea-drinking.—Traditions of Alexander the Great.—Interview with the Chief of Koondooz.—Incidents illustrative of Uzbek Character.—Koondooz; its Chief.—Departure from Koondooz.—Quit Khooloom.—Avaricious Conduct of our Conductor.—Dangers of the Road to Balkh.—Mirage.—Muzar.—Tomb of Mr. Trebeck.—Arrival at Balkh.—Intelligence of the Cafila-bashee207-236CHAP. VIII.BALKH, AND JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.Description of Balkh.—Climate.—Coins found at Balkh.—Cafila-bashee.—Grave of Mr. Moorcroft.—Quit Balkh.—Ancient Bactriana.—Correctness of Quintus Curtius.—Desert of the Toorkmuns.—Reach the Oxus.—Singular manner of crossing it.—The Caravan.—Kiz Kooduk.—A Khwaju.—Literature.—Amazons of Lakay.—Kirkinjuk.—A Slave.—Knotty Points.—Snowy Mountains.—Kurshee.—Sickness of our Party.—Alarms of a Traveller.—Letter to the Minister of Bokhara.—Kurshee.—Market at Karsan.—Uzbeks.—Abdoolla Khan; his Munificence.—Acquaintances.—Fatigues.—Reflections.—Arrival in Bokhara237-266CHAP. IX.BOKHARA.Change of Dress.—Visit the Minister.—Suspicions regarding us.—Description of the Registan, or great Bazar of Bokhara.—Employments in the Bazar.—Society at Bokhara.—Slave Bazar at Bokhara.—Offenders against Mahommedanism.—Hindoos.—A Wanderer.—An Indian Sepoy.—A pretty Fair One.—Costume.—Baths of Bokhara.—Interview with the Minister.—The King.—Life of a King.—Russian Slaves.—Acquaintances at Bokhara267-299CHAP. X.BOKHARA.The City of Bokhara.—Historical Sketch of it.—Colleges of Bokhara.—Rigour of Mahommedanism.—Literature of Central Asia.—Interview with the Vizier.—Samarcand.—Tomb of Bhawa Deen.—An Ancient City, Coins, &c.—An Uzbek Family.—Bokhara on Friday.—Arrangements.—Farewell Visit to the Vizier.—Departure300-329CHAP. XI.DETENTION IN THE KINGDOM OF BOKHARA.Detention of the Caravan.—Assemblage of Merchants.—Country between Bokhara and the Oxus.—Intercourse with the Toorkmuns.—A Toorkmun Acquaintance.—Ersaree Toorkmuns.—Slavery in Toorkistan.—Fellow-travellers.—Music.—Our own Party.—Ruins of Bykund.—Alexander’s Marches.—Reply from the Khan of Orgunje.—Uzbek Customs.—Preparations for Departure.—Receive Letters from India.—Reflections330-356