A military academy was founding in Easton, of which great expectations were formed. It was a private undertaking by Mr. Constant. Since it has been seen, that the military academy at West Point furnishes such excellent subjects, a strict military education is becoming more and more popular in the northern states. The number of pupils at West Point is too limited to admit all the young men for whom application is made. A captain Partridge, who was formerly an officer at West Point, but condemned to be cashiered by a court-martial on account of an act of insubordination towards General Swift and Lieutenant-colonel Thayer, has founded a military school at his own expense at Middletown, in Connecticut, in which he is said to give a very good education and solid instruction to the young men entrusted to him. The result of these schools shows more and more the advantage of a military education, and awakens a spirit of competition among individuals to erect similar schools.I left Easton, June 9, at four o’clock, in the mail stage, and rode through New Jersey to New York, seventy-two miles. We passed the Delaware, and rode on a good turnpike, through ahilly, well-cultivated country, and through some unimportant places to a tolerably high mountain, called Schooley’s Mountain, where there is a mineral spring much frequented in summer. We afterwards came to a neat place in a handsome valley, called German Valley; then passing through Chester and Mondham, also handsome places, we came to Morristown. All these places in New Jersey are well located, containing generally brick and some large houses; the streets are wide, planted with poplars, and in the centre of each place is a roomy square opening, in the midst of which stands a high pole, whence the national flag waves on public days. Churches also are not wanting; I saw four in Morristown, which appears to contain about one thousand inhabitants. The churches have here generally high and white steeples, so that they may be seen at a considerable distance. We came also through a small place, Springfield, and then reached Elizabethtown, a very handsome place, surrounded with neat country-seats, the greater part of which belong to rich inhabitants of New York. After a short delay we left Elizabethtown, rode two miles farther through a meadow ground, much like Holland, and reached a bay. Here we left the stage, and went on board the steam-boat Bellona, being about fourteen miles distant from New York. This bay is properly an inland lake, and is called Newark bay, after a town on it of the same name. It receives its water from two streams, Passaic and Hackensack, and communicates with the sea towards the south through Staten Island sound, and on the east with the bay of New York through the channel of Castleton, through which we also passed. We had on the left a cape belonging to New Jersey, and on the right Staten Island belonging to New York. As it was narrow here we could see with great ease the handsome country-seats and gardens on both shores. But we enjoyed the handsomest and most unexpected sight, as we entered the bay of New York. On the right was the beautiful shore of Staten Island with Castleton, then the quarantine, where, besides several other vessels, lay a Swedish line-of-battle ship, which being sold to the Colombian government, remained here on account of some difficulties in the payment; beyond the Narrows the sea, then Fort La Fayette; we had in front of us the shore of Long Island, and on the left the bay of New York, with the forts on Governor’s and Bedlow’s Island, and between in the back ground the city of New York, with its pointed spires and forest of masts, in the North and East rivers. This sight is wonderfully beautiful, and well deserves to be represented as a panorama. Arrived in the bay, we turned to the left, passed the above-mentioned fortified islands, left Bedlow’s island and the slightly fortified Ellis’s island, passed Castle-garden, and landed from the North river at seven o’clock in the evening. I immediatelyrepaired to the City Hotel in Broadway, where I had lodged last autumn, and occupied again the same apartment which I then did.I leave it the reader to imagine with what remarks and feelings I again entered this place. I gratefully turned to the Great Master of Life, who had so manifestly protected me during this long journey, and brought me back again to this place in health!I passed at this time but few days in New York, and I mention but a few circumstances. I was indeed very busy during these days, but almost every thing was done with a view to my departure.I made a visit to Colonel Burr, who was a vice-president of the United States at the commencement of this century, and a rival of Mr. Jefferson for the presidency, which was decided in favour of the latter by the vote of Mr. Claiborne. In consequence of this election, Colonel Burr fought a duel with General Hamilton, in which the latter was killed. Burr afterwards went to the western states, and, as it was said, intended to detach these from the eastern, and form them into a separate state. His plan was, however, discovered, and he was arrested, but acquitted for want of sufficient proof. He then travelled through Europe, and now lives at New York as a lawyer. During his travels in Europe, he came, in 1810, to Weimar, and spoke of a remarkably good reception on the part of my father. I found him to be a little old man, with very lively eyes, who spoke very well.As I went to pay a visit to Mr. Zimmermann, consul of the Netherlands, a fire occurred in a tar manufactory near his house. It was fortunately checked by the excellent fire companies, before it extended. I had scarcely remarked the fire when the bells were rung, and fire cried in all the streets. In less than five minutes engines arrived, each drawn by about thirty people, by means of two long ropes. In New York numerous fire companies exist, among whom the different engines are divided. The members of these companies have voluntarily engaged themselves for this laborious service, and are relieved, in consequence, from jury and military service. They wear a short frock at a fire, of coarse linen, with a leathern belt, and a leathern hat with a number. As in many English cities, there are water pipes laid in the streets, with an inscription at the corner, how many feet distant is the opening. This has an iron cover to which each engine has a key, is brought near, and the water conveyed into it through a leathern hose. As I had nothing to do with the fire, I returned to my lodgings, and passed a second fire in another street. This was, however, less important than the former, and soon extinguished.I went one evening to the Italian opera in the Park Theatre.This opera was established here last autumn, and is an attempt to transplant this exotic fruit to American ground. It does not, however, appear adapted to the taste of the public here; at least the speculation of the Italian theatre is not so profitable as was expected. The members of this theatre came from the Italian opera in London. At their head stands Signor Garcia, a very good bass. The orchestra was not numerous, but complete, and was directed by a French pianist, Mr. Etienne. Don Giovanni, by Mozart, was given; it was a great satisfaction to me to see this classic piece so well represented. At first nothing but operas of Rossini were played, but now operas of Mozart are preferred to the former by judges in this place. The price has been raised, and two dollars is asked for the first tier. The theatre continues till half past eleven, when one returns home through well-lighted streets.As I heard that Governor Clinton was in the city, I hastened to pay him my respects, but did not find him at home; on this occasion I again saw how large the city was. The house where the governor lived is nearly two miles distant from the City Hotel, without being out of the city. I remarked that since last autumn three new churches have been built here, of which one, a presbyterian, was very tasteful; since this time also several new houses had been erected in this quarter. The number of the inhabitants of the city increases exceedingly, it now supposed to amount to one hundred and seventy thousand.I rode also to the navy-yard in Brooklyn, on Long Island, where I paid a visit to the worthy Commodore Chauncy. I found him with his interesting family in excellent health, but very busy, for he had just despatched the corvette Lexington to New Foundland, in order to protect the American fishermen against the chicaneries of vessels of war belonging to other nations, cruising about there. I saw also the frigate Brandywine, which had returned from the Mediterranean sea, after taking General La Fayette to France; she was now undergoing repairs, in order to go to the Pacific ocean. A frigate and corvette were building.I saw also the celebrated chess-player of Kempelen, which, with some other curiosities is exhibited by its present owner, the mechanician Mr. Maelzel, from Vienna. He is said to have already gained much money with it in New York. The automaton represents a Turk, sitting behind the table with a chess-board before him. A table with another chess-board stands opposite, on which any of the company begins a game of chess with the automaton. When the automaton is to make a move, a noise of wheels is heard in the table, and at the same time the Turk lifts his left hand, which rests on a cushion, opens his fingers, takesthe piece, makes the move, closes his hand, and places it on the cushion again. If his antagonist makes a false move, the Turk knocks with his right hand on the table in anger, shakes his head, and expresses his indignation by a sound. When the Turk gained a game, Mr. Maelzel wound up the machine like a clock, by means of a handle at the table, then the Turk took a knight and placed it successively once in every square. The whole machine stands on four wheels, and may be very easily moved from one part of the chamber to the other. Whilst the Turk plays the game, Mr. Maelzel stands by; but it cannot be seen in what manner he directs his movements. It is said that Mr. Maelzel is negotiating with the keeper of the National Hotel, where he exhibited his automaton, for the purchase of the chess-player, and has already received an offer of nineteen thousand dollars.After Mr. Maelzel had moved back the player, he showed us a small figure made of pasteboard, and representing a violoncello player, which moves his head and both hands. Mr. Maelzel plays several pieces on the piano, and the small figure accompanies him with his violoncello, keeping exact time. He then showed us a trumpeter as large as life, who plays several pieces with the trumpet in a masterly manner, and with his trumpet accompanies Mr. Maelzel, who plays the piano. I had already seen this trumpeter in 1809, at Vienna, and I also recollected to have seen the chess-player in 1812, in Milan, in the palace of the then vice-king of Italy. Mr. Maelzel finally showed us three small automata a foot and a half high. One of them represents a little girl, which when its arm is moved cries maman; the other a clown, who made grimaces and cried oh la la! This and another smaller figure were placed on a rope, on which they performed various evolutions.To Castle-garden, on the battery, I went about seven o’clock in the evening. The tasteful illumination is effected by gas. A handsome and large saloon is also arranged here, where various refreshments may be obtained. A good orchestra played the whole evening, and rockets ascended from time to time. I was particularly pleased with the walk on the upper gallery, whence there is a beautiful view of Hudson river and the bay. It was a moonlight evening; the water was calm, and a gentle wind from the sea, refreshed the sultry atmosphere in a very agreeable manner.At a visit which I made to Governor Clinton, in the City Hall, where his office is, I saw in the room of audience several handsome portraits by Sully, Peale, Trumbull, &c. I was most pleased with a full length portrait of the deceased CommodorePerry. This naval hero was represented at the moment of leaving in a small boat his vessel, which had became useless, and going on boardof another, in which he gained his splendid victory over the English on Lake Erie. There is also here a full length portrait of General Jackson, and of Generals Brown, Macomb, and Swift, as well as those of Commodores Hull, Decatur, Bainbridge, M‘Donough and Chauncy, and of the former Governor Lewis. There is also a very good portrait of Ex-President Monroe, as well as of several of the earlier Governors of New York, among whom is one of the last Dutch Governors, Peter Stuyvezant, in full armour. In another hall appropriated to the meetings of the corporation, there is a portrait by Trumbull of the great Washington, and opposite to this, a portrait of the elder Governor Clinton, uncle of De Witt Clinton, as well as those of General Hamilton and Chief Justice Jay.To my great delight I met with my fellow traveller, Mr. Bowdoin; we were much together; in company with him I paid a visit to the English Admiral, Sir Isaac Coffin. He is an American by birth, and although he belongs to the English navy and is a member of parliament, his whole heart still clings to his native country, and he has come hither to see it again before his death.I was much disappointed at a second visit to the Italian opera. Il barbiere di Seviglia was announced, but on account of the indisposition of the SignorinaGarcia, it was not represented. The same folly prevails among the public here, as among the English, to require a repetition of the greater part of the airs, even of the most difficult songs, without regard to the exhaustion of the singer.I visited again, in company with the Rev. Mr. Schaeffer, the excellent institution, called House of Refuge for juvenile offenders. This institution has increased since last autumn, and now contains ninety-three young persons of both sexes; at present, however, there are only twenty-three of the female sex. Such an institution is certainly worthy of imitation; for children, who are led astray by wrong inclinations, by the wickedness of their parents, and by bad company, are brought back again to the right road, whereas in other countries they are shut up in public prisons with old offenders, and thereby they become still more corrupted. The house intended for the boys was finished, and inhabited by them. They were at this time employed in building another for the girls, parallel with the former. The boys sleep each alone in a cell on a piece of sail cloth, which they spread out and fasten by four pegs. These are long rooms, which serve as school rooms, and are on one side of the building two stories high. The second row is reached by wooden steps, and a gallery runs before the cells of this row. All the boys are employed; either in receiving instruction or in attending to some mechanicalbusiness. They are taylors, shoemakers, weavers, joiners, and basket-makers. I saw here a machine to cut out shoe soles and heels. Sharp irons are formed according to the shape, which is designed for the sole or heel; these irons are placed on a pair of wet hides, and brought under an iron press, which is worked like those in the mint. The boys who distinguish themselves by their industry and good behaviour, are placed in the first class, and carry on the left arm a brass plate, with the inscription, first class, as a mark of distinction. Those on the contrary, who have endeavoured to escape, drag a chain with a heavy iron ball. The period of detention in this institution is left to the discretion of the commissioners; they may be detained till their twenty-first year.In order to show me the boys, the director gave notice with a whistle, upon which they arranged themselves, according to their size. Several large and strong fellows stood on the right wing, among which I saw one of a very good appearance, whom I saw here last year as clerk. His family had confined him here on account of an irresistible propensity to steal, against which, neither exhortation nor severe corporeal punishment availed. I saw two little boys of seven years, on the left wing, who had already begun to steal. The biography of every one is written in a separate book, and a journal afterwards kept of his behaviour, punishments, &c. The director of the house showed me some of these biographies; they are psychologically, exceedingly remarkable. The greater part of the boys had been induced to steal by larger ones, who have been confined on account of this offence in the penitentiary or state prison. The director called the former of these institutions the academy, and the latter the university for thieves. The benefit of this house of refuge is perceived in the clearest manner from these biographies, it is seen of what importance it is to anticipate the development of crime. It is certainly an effective mode of improving the morality of the lower classes. They say that it is more difficult to keep the girls in order, than the boys, and that upon the whole, the former are much worse than the latter. They are generally seduced, when they are but nine or ten years old. When not engaged in receiving instruction, they are employed in female occupations.After leaving this interesting institution, we repaired to the alms-house on the East river. With the alms-house they have connected the workhouse, in which criminals are confined and employed for the benefit and advantage of the city. The institution was erected at the expense of the city, and consists of three long massive buildings, three stories high, with several side buildings, designed for hospitals, schools, smithshops, &c. The whole is surrounded with a wall, and divisions made in the interior,to separate the paupers from the criminals. The offices and the rooms occupied by the officers, as well as those of the poor, are arranged in the building fronting on the river, the second house also contains rooms for the poor, and workshops, in which those who can yet work, are usefully employed. About twelve hundred helpless poor people and children, among which are many foundlings, are here supported. They inhabit large halls, which, however, have a bad smell, and I missed that cleanliness, which is indispensably necessary in such an establishment. A poor-house, is at best an unpleasant, and when it is not cleanly kept, a disgusting sight. Those who are confined, are criminals of a lower kind, the worst are not confined longer than three years. The men work during the day, either in the fields belonging to the city, or in the public streets. A chain is attached to their leg, and they are under the inspection of appointed sentinels. The women are employed in various manners. A treading-mill was formerly in operation in a side building; but this has not been used for a year, as it was thought injurious to the health of the prisoners. A kind of typhus raged in the prison last year, which carried off numbers of the prisoners. These sleep in separate cells, each of which, is seven feet long, and three feet broad. Each prisoner has here, as in the house of refuge, a piece of sail cloth, spread out on four pegs, on which he sleeps. There is a small grate in each door, which admits the necessary light into the cell. There are sixty cells in one hall, all on one side, in five rows above each other; each row has a small gallery. The hall receives its light from above. A pulpit, opposite the cells, is erected in this hall for worship; the prisoners who are confined during the service, stand behind the grate in their doors, whence they may see the minister. The whole arrangement has, as remarked above, a handsome and open situation; there is a belvidere on the roof of the front house, whence a handsome and extensive prospect may be enjoyed.On the last day of my stay in New York and in America, I went with Mr. Zimmermann into some stores, and walked in some of the oldest parts of the city. In these parts the streets are crooked, narrow and gloomy, well adapted to retain the yellow fever. In the neighbourhood, however, of the alms-house there is a building three stories high, where the incurable lunatics, supported by the corporation of the city, are received; but the two upper stories are designed to receive, when the yellow fever appears, those who suffer with this dreadful evil, in order to remove, as quickly as possible, the infection from the city. Some old Dutch houses stand in the narrow streets, built by the first settlers, consisting only of a lower story, with the gable-ends towards the street. They are building in Wall street, a newexchange, which, when completed, will be a handsome building. The post-office is already placed in its lower story. Wall street is the street in which the most commercial business is done, and in which most of the banks stand; it is to be regretted that it is one of the ugliest streets in the city.After having paid some farewell visits, I passed a part of my last evening in America, in a very agreeable manner in the house of Mrs. Bell. It is the most agreeable house for strangers in New York, in which they always meet with a very good reception. I enjoyed also, for several hours, the company of Mr. Bowdoin, and of Colonel Jones, the brother-in-law of Governor Clinton.----CHAPTER XXVII.Return Voyage from New York to Liverpool.Tomy great and sincere regret, the hour at length arrived when I was constrained to leave this happy and prosperous land, in which I had seen and learned so much, and in whichmuchmore still remained to be seen and learned:sed fata trahunt hominem!On the 16th of June, at ten, A. M., I proceeded to Whitehall, the southernmost point of the battery, accompanied by Mr. Zimmermann, Mr. George Beiden, and Mr. Armstrong, the American Consul at Port-au-Prince. Close alongside the wharf, the steam-boat Nautilus, which plies between New York and Staten Island, lay ready to take passengers on board the Pacific, one of the Liverpool and New York packets, on board of which I had taken passage for Europe. The Pacific had on the preceding day, sailed down to the quarantine ground. The gentlemen above namedaccompaniedme to the vessel. We were scarcely on board the steam-boat before she departed on her trip. She was tolerably crowded, inasmuch as she not only carried the Pacific’s passengers, but likewise their friends, who accompanied them, and the passengers for Staten Island. The rain fell in torrents, and the passage was rather unpleasant.After stopping a few moments at Staten Island to land some passengers, we reached the Pacific in an hour. The wind being contrary, the ship could not put to sea. Not far from us lay the packet ship Edward Quesnell, which had left New York the day previous, and likewise, owing to head winds, could not proceedon her voyage. This ship belongs to the Havre-de-Grace line, trading between that port and New York. Our friends and acquaintances, who had come to bid us farewell, after partaking of a luncheon, returned in the Nautilus to the city. Now I once again was compelled to arm myself with patience! I recalled the time, when I was obliged to remain fourteen long days on board the Pallas, in the Road of Goeree, and I now consoled myself with a more pleasing situation. At that time I had just torn myself from the dearest objects of my heart; I contemplated a tedious stay in England, a dangerous voyage, in a word, to encounter a host of difficulties, and moreover found myself, in an inclement season of the year on board a ship, which was to bring me to a new world. These difficulties were now overcome; the voyage had been accomplished, and I was conscious that the object of my free choice, had been truly fulfilled to the best of my endeavours. According to a close calculation, I found that from my landing in Boston, to the time of my re-embarkation for Europe, I had travelled over a distance of seven thousand one hundred and thirty-five miles! How happy was I on board the Pacific! The greatest tranquillity, order and discipline, the utmost comfort in respect to quarters; a sedulous attendance, profuse and palatable meals, seasoned with the best of wines, graced our splendid board.The first day was employed by the passengers, about twenty in number, in making themselves at home; I passed the afternoon and evening in reading and writing. The rain abated towards night, but the wind remained unchanged. Among the passengers I observed a Dr. Garret, a surgeon attached to the seventieth English regiment of the line, whose acquaintance I had made in Montreal, during the summer previous, also two Catholic clergymen of that city, Abbés Roux and Richards, a Mr. Wilkins, and Mr. Adair, an Irishman, and also several gentlemen from Jamaica, a Swiss merchant named Hoffel, and a young Hamburger, called Drusina, who had lately returned from Mexico, where he was partner in an English commercial house, a very genteel young man, and lastly a Dr. Cabell of Richmond, in Virginia, with his wife, a sister of Mrs. General Scott, and with their charming friend, Miss Caroline Marx, also a resident of Richmond.Though we had no rain on the 17th of June, still the wind continued unfavourable; the Edward Quesnell had gone farther out to sea, and the Pacific did the same. The anchor was weighed, we spread our sails, and coasted for some miles along the shore to the Sandy Hook light-house, located on a point of land belonging to the state of New Jersey; here we again joined the Edward Quesnell and cast anchor close to her. While sailing alongthe coast, I was visited by my old acquaintance, sea-sickness, which however did not last long. While attacked by this sickness, I gratefully recalled to mind the goodness of Providence, in having preserved me from all disease during my long journey through the American continent! In England I had several attacks of rheumatism in the left arm and shoulder; but these pains disappeared during my voyage to Boston. Owing to the unhealthiness of the climate in the neighbourhood of Lake Ontario and the riverSt.Lawrence, I had a breaking out in the face, which ultimately increased to a scab on the chin, and of which I did not get rid for several months. To this I have to add the unfortunate injury from the carriage at Greenbush, which caused violent pains in my chest. All these left me the moment I reached the genial climate of the southern states, and during my stay in New Orleans I did not feel the least inconvenience, and when, during the journey, I experienced now and then a slight indisposition, it was doubtless to be attributed solely to the water that I was compelled to drink; it was but short in its duration, and, upon the whole, during my travels, I enjoyed perfect health.The country adjacent to the spot where our ship lay, opposite the quarantine hospital at Staten Island, until this morning, is uncommonly beautiful. On leaving this station, we passed through the Narrows, beheld on our right Fort Richmond on Staten Island, to our left Fort La Fayette, and in the back ground, on a hill of Long Island, Fort Hamilton, in the erection of which they were busily engaged. Then we left the charming high coast of Staten Island and came in sight of the bleak low lands of Sandy Hook, with Long Island to the left, and the ocean before us. The Sandy Hook light-house is a high white tower, surrounded by small underwood; to the south of it, and tolerably distant from each other, are two small towers, likewise furnished with lanterns, whose lights are, however, not to be seen at so great a distance at sea as that of the large one. They serve as landmarks for mariners.As we lay so near the Edward Quesnell, I went towards evening in a boat on board that vessel, in order to see how the passengers, and particularly the worthy Mr. Hottinguer, whom I have heretofore mentioned, were situated. Although this ship is well constructed and provided with state-rooms, still it is by no means so elegant and comfortable as the Pacific, nor is it so large. She had thirty-five cabin passengers, with a number of children; they were greatly straightened for room. Besides Mr. Hottinguer, I met several acquaintances; Colonel de Quartel,II.36Baron Lederer,II.37with his two sons, whom he intended to place at a school in Germany; Major Chotard,II.38with his lady and four children, and also a young Italian scene-painter, from New Orleans, called Fogliardi, who married there a very old but extremely rich wife, and was on his way to France and Italy, to escape with his better half from the quizzical jokes of the wicked wags of New Orleans. Although the deck of the Edward Quesnell was very narrow, Mr. Hottinguer had received a present of an elegant saddle-horse from his friends at New York, which, to please those friends, he was forced to take with him; therefore there was a stable erected for it on the deck, which took up a great space, and caused much inconvenience. Mr. Hottinguer and Colonel de Quartel accompanied me back to the Pacific, and remained some time with me. It was a charming moonlight evening; the wind, however, still continued unfavourable.On the 18th of June, just one year had elapsed since I departed in the Pallas from Falmouth. The whole of this day we had dull weather; the wind remained unfavourable, and the vessel rode at anchor. Among our fellow travellers there were several very agreeable individuals. The English military surgeon was a very sprightly man, who perfectly understood how to cheer up the spirits of the ladies. Mr. Wilkins, a very elegant young man of good education, had been previously introduced to me by Governor Clinton in New York. One of the clergymen, the Abbé Leroux, an elderly Frenchman, we found tolerably dull. With regard to the other, the Abbé Richards, I heard it stated, that he had been originally a Protestant minister in Virginia, and had removed to Montreal, to endeavour to make proselytes in the seminary of that place; but in his controversies he became so won over to the Catholic faith, that he was not only converted, but likewise took the orders of Catholic priesthood. One of our boats went ashore, and the steward brought back some fresh provisions, among others tolerably large clams, which, when roasted or stewed in a rich sauce, resemble the flavour of the lobster, as likewise a species of large crab, termed horse-shoe, which resembles the Molucca crab, having a long pointed spine instead of a tail. The form of the shell of this crab resembles a horse-shoe; seen from the under part it is all alive; they have ten nippers, with which they seize their prey, and which answer likewise for feet. In the afternoon we received a visit from Mr. Hottinguer, Colonel de Quartel, Baron Lederer, and Mr. Fogliardi. I escorted those gentlemen back to the Edward Quesnell. The sea running rather high, we were splashed by the salt water. Our trip seenfrom the ship must have had a dangerous aspect, for it was really affecting to behold with what tenderness Madam Fogliardi caressed her young husband, as he once more happily stood on the deck. I also became acquainted on board the Edward Quesnell with a Portuguese, Dr. Constancio, and his wife. During the ephemeral government of the Cortes in his native land, this individual was Portuguese ambassador near the government of the United States, and had subsequently, during the existence of the counter-revolution, lost his office. After remaining half an hour on board the Edward Quesnell, Mr. Croker took me back in his long-boat to the Pacific. We made the transition in less than four minutes. This Mr. Croker is a Quaker, and an experienced seaman; he had crossed the ocean one hundred and thirty-four times.During the next three days the wind remained unfavourable. Several vessels from Liverpool, were making port; one of them had only been twenty-six days on her voyage. We were likewise, approached by several small vessels bound to different foreign countries, and like us, contending with a contrary wind. Towards evening I received a note from Messrs. Leroy, Bayard & Co. in New York, acquainting me with the failure of the firm of Fries & Co. in Vienna. As I had formerly been very hospitably received by that house, and was personally acquainted with all the individuals belonging to it, their misfortunes deeply afflicted me.On the 22d, the rain abated and the weather began to clear up, but the wind continued steadily blowing from the east, which kept us in the same spot. Nothing interrupted the uniformity of our mode of living, which we beguiled by reading the newspapers that we received from the city, and looking at vessels coming from England, running into port before the wind. One of these vessels had one hundred and forty Irish emigrants on board. The James Cropper, a ship belonging to the line, had sailed on the 16thultimofrom Liverpool. Two days previous, the Silas Richards, another of the same line, had also arrived, which left Liverpool on the 24th ult. In one of the New York papers, we found a letter from the master of this vessel, in which he stated, that he had seen the celebrated sea serpent, not far from the American coast.During the 23d of June, we still remained becalmed; the weather was cloudy and rainy throughout the whole day. Mr. Hottinguer, who likewise began to feel the effects of ennui on board his vessel, paid me a visit, took a luncheon and dined with us, and passed the greater part of the day in our company. When in the evening he returned to the Edward Quesnell, I accompanied him, and made a short visit to my half despairing acquaintances.One of our boats had gone towards land upon a fishing excursion, and came back loaded with a rich collection of various kinds of fish: flounders, bluefish, and herrings in abundance; clams, crabs beautifully coloured with blue and red; large sea-shells of extraordinary form, several bass and a small fish, with a brown back, resembling a toad, with a thick white belly, which it fills with air to such a degree, that the whole fish has the appearance of a ball, three-fourths of it are white, and one-fourth forming the back, brown. When this fish is caught and dies, the air gradually escapes from it, and it ultimately assumes the form of an empty bladder.At last, on the 24th, the weather became somewhat clear and the wind came round favourably for us. At noon the anchor was weighed and we spread our sails. A number of vessels, desirous to avail themselves of the fair wind, were coming down from New York and the quarantine ground. The line packet, John Wells, next in rotation to the Pacific, made likewise its appearance from port, which was no doubt the principal cause of our hastily hoisting sail. I counted more than fifty vessels of all sizes, putting to sea. The wind in the beginning was so slight, that we could only move along with the ebb tide. We doubled the low cape of Sandy Hook; in the back ground we saw the light-house, surrounded by underwood, and in front of it, like two outposts, the two low stony beacons. Not far from the light-house, stands a half ruined block-house, in which during the last war a military post was stationed; it now answers as a landmark for mariners. In the rear of the high light-house, at a distance of several miles, towers the highland of Navesink, presenting a charming prospect. To the south one discovers the long and low coast of New Jersey, and perceives the sea-baths of Long Branch, which during the heat of summer are numerously visited by the fashionables of New York and Philadelphia. The heights of Staten Island with Fort Richmond are seen, to the right of them are the Narrows, and farther to the right the southernmost high coast of Long Island, gradually fading from the view. In the centre of the Narrows, Fort La Fayette stretches out, like a solitary point. As we put farther out to sea, we saw several buoys, which designated the shallows, through the midst of which the skilful pilot brought us safely. Two small vessels were employed in fishing up lost anchors. The pilot remarked, that the anchors of the French fleet under Admiral De Grasse, had remained here ever since the time of the American revolutionary war. This fleet owing to the unskilfullness of two pilots, was compelled to part with its anchors. When an enemy’s fleet blockades New York, the shipping make to Sandy Hook bay, properly called Raritan bay, for shelter against storms, andare thus enabled to blockade the Narrows very closely. Should a fleet wish to force the passage, it can, as I remarked last fall, neither be prevented from so doing by Fort Richmond, nor Fort La Fayette. In a conversation which I had with General Bernard, he stated, that he would prevent a close blockade by means of two strong casemated forts, which he would erect on the before-mentioned shallows, whereby the enemy would be perfectly excluded from Raritan bay. This project could not, however, be realised at that time, because the grant of funds by congress were to be appropriated to the completion of the works on the fortress already commenced.In the afternoon, the pilot at length left us, and we found ourselves on the open sea. Although the wind blew very gently, still the sea, owing to the late storm, ran very high. The ship rolled dreadfully and many of our passengers were sea-sick. I also felt somewhat unwell, but my complaint did not produce vomiting.During the 25th of June the wind not being favourable, we made but little progress. The weather was rather unpleasant, and the whole day clouded with a thick fog, almost as dense as that through which we made our way during last year on the banks of Newfoundland. Towards the afternoon the weather brightened up a little. We spoke two ships, the Camillus, of New York, from Greenock, in Scotland, with Scotch emigrants, bound to New York, and a small brig from New Brunswick, in ballast, to New York. A shark followed our ship for some time. It gave me particular pleasure to perceive what tranquillity reigned on board, that no swearing was to be heard, and that every thing tended to the comfort of the passengers.During the night rain fell, and on the 26th of June we had likewise several showers. We perceived the Edward Quesnell astern of us, and set several additional sails that she might not reach us. The wind was not very favourable, and blowing from the south-east, it drove us into the neighbourhood of the perilous George’s bank, which we so carefully avoided last year. Therefore we changed our course and stood to the south. It became imperiously necessary this year to keep aloof from the bank of Newfoundland, because we had been assured that a great quantity of detached ice had come down from the north, and setting on the bank in the shape of bergs and fields of ice, had rendered the passage extremely dangerous. Several of our passengers, and I among the number, had not entirely recovered from the effects of sea-sickness.On the 27th of June the wind had come round favourably to the west, so that we were enabled to hoist a larger quantity of canvass. In the forenoon there was a heavy swell, which mademe sea-sick. While labouring under this unpleasant sensation, it is difficult to conceive how men can expose themselves to the dangers of the sea, while there is a comfortable house and quiet bed at home. But scarcely is it over, or scarcely have we put foot on shore before all these inconveniences are forgotten, and one thinks little of embarking again. The sea gradually became more still, the weather charmingly warm, and an awning was spread over a part of the deck, under which we collected, and even the ladies, who had slowly recovered from sea-sickness, joined us, to breathe the fresh air. In the evening, we were regaled with music; one of the steerage passengers blew tolerably well on the bugle, amused his companions therewith, and we listened to his strains at a distance. There was some musical talent among ourselves; a young Scotch gentleman from Jamaica, named Leslie, played elegantly on the flute, and often delighted us. Several water birds followed our ship; it is a species of bird resembling a swallow, called petrel, and termed mother Carey’s chickens by sailors, who say that they never alight upon land, and as their nests are not readily found, it is hard to tell where they propagate. A large vessel, which we supposed to be either the Edward Quesnell or the John Wells, followed constantly in our wake; but our heavy press of sail kept us always in advance. It is a matter of surprise, how such a large quantity of sail can be managed by so few hands, for we had but fifteen sailors and two boys; however, the steerage passengers were obliged to lend a hand to the manœuvres on deck; there were thirteen of these on board; they are similar to the deck passengers in the steam-boats; they pay but little, provide their own provisions, and are narrowly lodged in a small place below decks, near the fore-mast, and are not allowed, unless when working, to show themselves abaft the mainmast, inasmuch as this place is solely reserved for the cabin passengers. On board our vessel, the sailors slept in quarters provided for them on the deck, between the fore-mast and the bowsprit.During the whole of the 28th of June we were favoured with a prosperous breeze and fine weather. Our situation was, by a midday observation, 40° 3´ latitude, and 65° 4´ longitude. Since yesterday we had seen grass floating close to the ship. Thence we concluded that we had already entered the favouring Gulf Stream. The awning was again spread. Mrs. Cabell and Miss Marx, who had recovered by degrees from their indisposition, presented themselves to-day upon deck, and made a considerable change in the tedious uniformity of our late mode of living. In the evening Mr. Leslie brought his flute, and delighted us with music; finally, we began to dance on deck, although from the motion of the ship it did not succeed well.On the 29th of June, both wind and weather continued favourable to us; otherwise things remained as before. Captain Croker, who did every thing in his power to entertain his passengers, set off in the evening a couple of rockets, and other fire-works, which afforded us much pleasure. Mr. Croker, who is very experienced in a seafaring life, related us many of his adventures on the deep, which we found very interesting. We twice perceived swarms of flying fish arise from the water, which after flying a considerable distance, plunged anew into their native element; they did not, however, come sufficiently near to enable us to observe them distinctly. A large dolphin likewise made its appearance, and we were still escorted by mother Carey’s chickens, and saw numerous sea-gulls.On the 30th of June no change; wind favourable, weather fine and clear, and a curiosity in natural history! We generally kept a pair of hooks in our wake. One of these hooks had caught a mollusc which goes by the name ofPortuguese man-of-war. It is of a violet colour, and has a spongy body with long feelers and two bladders, the largest of which is about the size of a carp. This bladder the animal fills with air at pleasure, in order to enable itself to swim, and when the sun shines upon it, it displays very fine colours. Otherwise we caught nothing, as heretofore, because fish most generally avoid copper-bottomed vessels, such as ours. In the evening we saw in the ship’s wake the phosphoric sealight.Under a continually favourable wind, we made great progress on the 2d of July, and had the agreeable certainty of leaving the bank of Newfoundland behind us, so that we had reason to hope, during the remainder of our voyage, not to be again incommoded by fogs; latitude 41° 24´, longitude 50°. Notwithstanding the constantly favourable and fresh breezes, the sea was so smooth, that our ship had no more motion than if we were sailing on a stream. And thus passed off the third of July; the air, which had thus far been very warm, became to-day rather cool, which made our cabin very comfortable. At a cable’s length from our vessel we perceived a numerous herd of porpoises, which were sporting on the surface of the water; latitude 42°, longitude 46° 48´.The 4th of July was the fiftieth anniversary of the Declaration of American Independence; it was of course duly celebrated on board our vessel. The American flag was hoisted early, and at dinner more wine than usual, and of various kinds, was drank freely. Several toasts were proposed: Mr. Croker drank the health of the King of England; whereupon Dr. Garret proposed that of the President of the United States; I gave Governor Clinton’s; thereupon followed a great many of like kind. Wewere pretty gay and cheerful, and drank till tolerably late. Several gentlemen got head-aches, and became sea-sick; and many laughable scenes took place. I stole into my state-room, in order to avoid similar mishap.On the 5th of July we had the good fortune to meet a large whale, which spouted the water high above him in all directions. He did not, however, honour us a long time with his presence, but pursued his course, and we ours, though with much greater velocity; for at the usual meridian observation, we found our latitude 44° 9´ and our longitude 39° 38´. In the morning we had little wind, but when towards evening it freshened, we made from eight to nine miles an hour. Up to this period our voyage had been most prosperous, continually fair wind and the sea very smooth. During three days we had seen a brig at the distance of some miles from us, which was going on the same course, but our ship being a better sailer, we left it to-day considerably behind.On the 7th of July, weather dull, with occasional rain; which rendered it cold and uncomfortable. Latitude 46° 50´, longitude 30° 31´; wind towards afternoon rather strong, sea running very high with the wind in our stern; this increased the motion of our ship, which was constantly pitching from one side to the other. What was not properly fastened gave way. This gave rise to many droll scenes. The ladies, who were unaccustomed to this new unpleasantness attending a sea voyage, became frightened; they conceived that danger was near, and we had considerable trouble in allaying their fears. One of them entreated in the most affecting manner, several gentlemen, who were whiling away their time at a game of whist, and others who were engaged at back-gammon, not to bring down the vengeance of heaven, and not to increase the danger that surrounded us, by sinful card-playing and unholy back-gammon! But there was no danger whatever to apprehend, though the rolling of the vessel was unpleasant; the passengers scarcely knew where to go, or what to do, for it was even impossible to sleep, inasmuch as the shocking rolling threatened us with a fall from our beds.We pursued our course swiftly during the 8th of July. Latitude 47° 58´, longitude 25° 10´. In the forenoon the sea was calmer, but during the afternoon, and particularly in the evening, it ran so high that the ship pitched more than yesterday. The weather was, during the whole of the day, unpleasant, cloudy, and rainy, and it was with the greatest difficulty that we kept our feet on the wet deck. In the evening, I observed again in the sea the phosphoric light; some parts of the water sparkled like fireflies.II.39We overtook a brig, apparently bound on our course;on this occasion we once more remarked what a good sailer the Pacific is, for when we discovered the brig, she was far ahead of us, and although she had all her sails set, we not only soon overtook her, but soon left her far behind us. We did not approach her sufficiently near to speak. During this damp weather, I acknowledged the superior construction of the Pacific to that of the Pallas; whilst in the latter the moisture penetrated throughout, and exerted its noxious influence on a variety of articles liable to rot, and spread through the whole vessel an insupportable foul smell; every thing in the Pacific was dry, and in our cabin we had not suffered at all from the existing humidity.The night of the 8th and 9th of July I passed very unpleasantly, owing to the rolling of the vessel; I was every moment on the point of falling out of my bed, and it was only towards six o’clock in the morning that I began to enjoy some repose. The day brought with it clear weather. The wind had been so favourable for the last twenty-four hours, that we found ourselves in latitude 48° 40´, and longitude 19° 12´. In the afternoon the wind became variable and blew from various quarters; we experienced several squalls accompanied by showers of rain. At last it set in strong from the north-west, and drove us forward at the rate of eleven miles per hour. Towards evening we came up with a vessel bound from Savannah for Liverpool, spoke her, and gave her our longitude. Their reckoning differed from ours, as they believed themselves to be in longitude 16°. The sea ran rather high while we were in the neighbourhood of this vessel, so that we could not have a long talk with her, nor even rightly understand her name. We left her far behind us.On the 10th of July, the wind continued favourable, there was a heavy swell of the sea, and much motion in the vessel. The weather clearing off towards noon, we were enabled to make exact observations, which we could not do for some days before, on account of the cloudy weather. It appeared, that we had made a small mistake in our computation of the longitude, for by the precise observation of this day, we found our latitude to be fifty degrees twenty-two minutes, and our longitude seventeen degrees. We saw already several birds, a proof that we were approaching land; we continually saw petrels and mother Carey’s chickens. The more we sailed northwards, we felt the air becoming cooler, which created in me no pleasant sensation.The 11th of July was rather windy and rainy; in other respects matters remained in statu quo. Latitude fifty degrees thirty minutes, longitude twelve degrees fifty-five minutes. We hoped to find ourselves on the next day on the Nymph bank, which stretches from the south of Ireland, far into the sea, nor were wedeceived in our expectations, for very early on the 12th of July, we experienced an uncommonly heavy motion, and the waves ran as high as in a storm, although the wind was not strong. This served as an assurance, that we had attained the Nymph bank. The motion of the sea here is caused by the pressure of great masses of water upon the bank, whereby the under water is cast up, and driven with great force towards the surface. The lead was hove for soundings several times since midnight, as we lay still too far to the south, to be governed by landmarks; had the weather not been so hazy, we could easily have distinguished Cape Clear, the south-westernmost point of Ireland, consisting of a single high rock, jutting out into the sea, and provided with a light-house. While we were seated at dinner, land was discovered. We mounted on deck, and beheld the high coast of the county of Cork in Ireland; the weather continued so hazy and rainy, that we could not have a clear and fine view of the land. I was surprised at the indifference with which I contemplated the first European land that now met my view, and particularly when I compared this indifference with the joyful enthusiasm, with which, one year past, on the 24th of July. I put my foot for the first time on the soil of America! But at that time every thing was new to me, and my expectations were wrought up to the highest pitch; now on the contrary, I could only expect to see what was generally familiar. After dinner we perceived off the coast of Ireland, two islands with high hills, called the Saltees, and near them a three-masted ship, as a floating light at anchor. We met likewise a steam-boat, bound from Milford in Wales, to Waterford in Ireland. It lay rather low in the water, and as the wind blew strong from the west, the sea ran so high, that I did not at all envy the condition of the passengers in the steam-boat, over whose deck the waves were constantly beating. The sight of land made our passengers more cheerful, and towards evening we became more happy than usual.On the morning of the 13th of July, the wind was uncommonly mild, the weather, however, cleared up, so that we gradually discovered the lofty and mountainous coast of Wales. Among these high mountains, we particularly distinguished that of Snowdon, which towered above the others, until its pinnacle became lost in the clouds; it is about four thousand feet high. We descried the Isle of Anglesea next, and came so near it, that we could perceive distinctly its rough, high and precipitous rocks, arising from the ocean. On the highest of these rocks, stands a watch-house with a signal pole; we showed our number; every vessel that trades with Liverpool, is there furnished with a number, under which it is inscribed in the book of the exchange, andour signal was immediately hoisted over the watch-house. By a chain of telegraphs, the news of our arrival reached Liverpool in a moment, at the distance of sixty miles. Under the high rock of Anglesea, is a smaller, more isolated rock, on which stands a white light-house, which contrasts charmingly with the dark rocks. From the higher rock, a zigzag path, cut in the rock and surrounded with a white wall, leads to a bridge, suspended by ropes, over which you enter this little island. As we approached it towards noon, the wind sprang up, and we enjoyed the majestic spectacle of the waves breaking on the black rocks. Then we made the highlands of Holyhead, doubled them and directed our course to the east. Behind the cape, the beautifully situated town of Holyhead with its harbour burst upon our view. This English harbour is the nearest to the Irish coast; between it and Dublin there is a regular communication by steam-boats. We tacked and stood over to the coast of Wales, and were delighted with the appearance of its fresh green soil; its neat houses and churches. The green hedges with which the fields and meadows are encompassed, produce a very pleasing sensation; I however observed, that there was a great scarcity of trees. The scenery towards the sea side began likewise to be more lively, as there was a great number of vessels in view. At last the pilot-boat came up, and put a pilot on board. As one approaches England from the European continent, the elegant construction of these one-masted cutter pilot-boats and their quick sailing, excites astonishment; but if one is bound from the United States, and has beheld their elegant shipping, and particularly the New York pilot-boat schooners, there is no reason for surprise, for the English shipping is far inferior to the American.Toward evening, the ebb was against us; we could no longer run into Liverpool, and were obliged to cast anchor within fifteen miles of the city. We had passed the same floating light, which I observed three years ago, in a voyage from Liverpool to Dublin, and we lay near four light-houses, two of which gave a remarkably clear and beautiful light; the light of one of these towers played gracefully on the waves. These towers were a considerable distance from each other, and are so situated, that two must be brought in a line, to find the proper course. I had observed on the coast of Wales, some white pyramids, which also serve as landmarks. We met to-day several steam-boats, bound to different ports along the Irish coast. Dr. Garret, whose business led him to Ireland, availed himself of this opportunity to proceed to Dublin, and left us while we were still under way. We beheld the departure of this lively fellow-passenger with much regret, as the loss of his good humour and wit, greatly depressed our spirits. Three custom-house officers soon came on board,who after inspecting the vessel for form sake, and partaking of a hearty collation, instantly freed us from their company. We were boarded by several boats, which offered to take passengers ashore; but as it was near dusk, and as the most of us were in no hurry, only two of our fellow-passengers accepted their proposals. This was the nineteenth day since our departure from Sandy Hook, and we could not be too thankful to Providence for his protection, and our happy and speedy voyage. As it was known in Liverpool, that we were to sail on the 16th ultimo, from New York, our friends anxiously awaited our arrival.On the 14th of July, between two and three o’clock in the morning every body was already stirring on board of our ship; we hoisted anchor and set sail, with a favourable wind, to reach Liverpool by daybreak. This city, as is known, is situated on the right bank of the Mersey, in Lancashire; seen from the water, it presents a charming prospect. To the right you behold the coast of Chestershire, and a deep bay which stretches to the city of Chester. This coast is not handsome at first view, but becomes more agreeable after doubling a very dangerous rocky point, which runs from the left bank of the Mersey, not far from the harbour of Liverpool, and on which, during gales, vessels are often liable to be wrecked. You then discover on this coast beautiful country-seats, and in the back ground pleasant villages. Captain Croker wished to avail himself of the rising tide to run into the Prince’s dock; this required much manœuvering, and at last we took in sail. After an hour’s labour we ultimately reached the dock. The dock was so crowded with ships, that the Pacific took her place fourth from the wharf. I went ashore, and took up my lodgings at the King’s Arms Hotel, in Castle-street, an excellent hotel, in which I lodged three years ago. The landing of my baggage went on very slowly, because it had to be carried over three vessels. When landed, it was carried to the so called old dock, to a toll-house, situated in the interior of the city. This toll-house is an old, narrow, smoky building, by no means worthy so rich a trading emporium as Liverpool. Before I could have my baggage examined, I was obliged to present myself at the alien-office, to produce my passport; it was taken from me, and I received a passport ad interim, in lieu thereof. Upon the whole, I had to undergo a great many formalities. InAmerica, it was quite the contrary: there they never thought of asking me for a passport. Ultimately I received permission to have my baggage examined, which was done in the politest manner possible.----CHAPTER XXVIII.Stay in England, and return to Ghent.Amongthe gentlemen who shortly after my arrival in Liverpool favoured me with a visit, was the American consul, Mr. Maury. He is a native of Virginia, about eighty years of age, and a school-mate of President Jefferson. He is the American consul who, after the treaty of Versailles, came to England with credentials signed byWashington.The gloomy and smoky appearance of the city of Liverpool, as well as its many narrow and partly angular streets, had no pleasant effect upon me. However, I found the pavements much better than in America. I visited several splendid porcelain shops, which article is made in the vicinity and in Staffordshire. The chinaware is very fine, the painting and gilding good, and this ware also is very durable. In these stores one likewise finds Wedgewood white and blue crockery, and the so called stone-china, representing landscapes and all kinds of figures, and in solidity much resembling the porcelain of Tournay.I afterwards visited the House of Correction, which was built seven years ago, and is a mile and a half distant from the city. This institution is the central prison of Lancastershire, and contains prisoners whose time of imprisonment does not exceed three years. Those who have to undergo a more severe punishment, are generally transported to New South Wales. I had a written permission from a magistrate to visit the establishment, through which I was accompanied by the governor; the building stands on a rising ground, enjoys a free circulation of air, and can accommodate eight hundred prisoners; at this period they amounted to six hundred and fifty.The prisoners are divided into twenty-one classes, thirteen for the men and eight for the women, according to the extent of their crimes and ages. Those who are prisoners for the first time are dressed in gray and yellow garments; those incarcerated for the second time, in blue and red; and those requiring particular attention are dressed in complete suits of blue or gray. The treatment observed towards women and children is pretty much the same, for even the children are divided into different classes, and entirely separated from the grown persons.For food the prisoners have daily either meat or fish. OnSunday there is service in the chapel, but for each sex separately, and every morning there are prayers. The prisoners were formerly principally employed in spinning or weaving cotton; but as for some months this article had much fallen in value, the working of the prisoners, except those engaged on the tread-mill, had in some measure ceased, and the greater portion of them were idle.Whipping is expressly forbidden in the prison. The most severe punishment which the governor is allowed to inflict, is three days solitary confinement. Should it become necessary to exercise a greater punishment, application must be made to a committee of magistrates, who meet weekly in the prison, and the punishment is left to their option. A court-house, built of sandstone, adjoins the prison. The grand entry is ornamented with a portico of six Ionic columns: it communicates with the prison by a small back-door, through which the prisoners are conducted unperceived into court. It is two stories high, has large rooms, and is handsomely laid out. The hall for the public sessions is extremely elegant, and is the whole height of the building. The antechambers are destined for the jury, witnesses and judges, to meet in private, and for the different offices attached to the court. One of them is a dressing-room for the judges and lawyers; there are several shelves in it for their wigs and cloaks; for in the English courts the judges and lawyers must in open court be dressed in powdered wigs.After I had inspected this interesting prison, we went to visit the institution for the blind, of which I had heard such a high character. Unfortunately, the hour for the admission of strangers had passed, and notwithstanding all our intreaties, we were denied admission by a handsome girl, who opened the door.We next visited a small museum, which was pretty much on the plan of those in America, and like most of these establishments, was furnished with a hand-organ, on which they played at certain hours, to induce people to enter. This museum possesses rare stuffed animals, viz. a large ant-eater, and a quantity of foreign lizards and snakes; many living ones of the same kind I had seen in America; they are attached in a very natural manner to moss-covered rocks. It has likewise a collection of foreign birds and shells; garments and weapons of the savages of America, and the Southern Islands; a boa constrictor coiled round and choking a young antelope, &c. A Miss Brown, a young person, born without arms, was to be seen working with her feet in the most ingenious style. She eats not only with her feet, but likewise pours out a glass of wine, and carries it to her mouth without spilling a drop; she mends a pen, and writes very distinctly with her right foot; she threads a needle, sews, &c.On the 16th of July, at eight o’clock in the morning, I departed from Liverpool in the stage for Birmingham, with the intention of soon proceeding to the continent. The English stages are better closed, and run easier than the American, but I prefer the latter, because their seats are more comfortable. The distance from Liverpool to Birmingham is one hundred and one miles; the turnpike is most excellent, and the road even the whole way. On one side of the turnpike, along the whole length of the road, there is a side-walk for pedestrians; it has a pebbly surface, and is enclosed on both sides with sandstone, to heighten the pavement. Wherever this side-walk is not paved, it is at least smoothed and lined with small sods; at equal distances two posts are driven into the ground, to prevent the passage of horsemen and wheelbarrows. I admired the peculiar care with which the stones destined for the repairs of the highway, are broken into the smallest pieces. With such stones it is easy to make a good road, and the Americans and other nations might well take example from the British, whenever they wish to have a good road, or to repair one. The number of villages that lay upon our route had a very handsome appearance. The dwellings of the farmers are small, but they have a very neat appearance, owing to the straw-thatched roofs, variegated with small windows, the bowers in front of the doors, and the garlands of roses and ivy, which twine gracefully along the walls; the little flower-gardens by the road side, also enhance the charms of these cottages. On the other hand, the towns have narrow streets, and a gloomy, smoky look.Soldiers are garrisoned in the towns as far as Wolverhampton. This arrangement had been made for some months past, because several large manufactories in this neighbourhood had stopped working, and the famishing artizans had adopted forcible measures in order to procure bread. The country is very well cultivated; mostly with wheat and barley. The wheat appeared already nearly ripe; the straw was however very small, owing to the want of rain. The green and blooming hedges that ran along the fields had a delightful aspect. In comparing the beautiful and large trees of America, with those of this country, I was astonished at the contrast between the two, the latter consisting of low and miserable woodland. However, in the parks and large gardens, several of which I saw, there are many fine trees; but it is on account of these many parks of the nobility, that a great quantity of land remains uncultivated, which, in a country so populous as England, becomes a matter of the highest importance.Between Newcastle and Stone we passed through a village called Trentham, where the Marquis of Stafford possesses a largecastle, situated in an extensive park; to the left of the road stand large square masses of stone, said to be the burial place of the Stafford family. Near the town of Stafford, which is the capital of Staffordshire, the old castle of Stafford is erected on a high hill. Two of its towers are still remaining, several rooms of which are fitted up for a sporting rendezvous. In former times it is said to have been a very important fortress, but was destroyed during the protectorate of Cromwell. Staffordshire is celebrated for its manufactures of earthenware; there are two very respectable establishments of this kind at Newcastle-under-Lyne, the most excellent of which is that of Wedgewood in Etruria, situated two miles from the aforesaid town. We passed several cotton manufactories, and a silk factory near Congleton, a town on the other side of Knutsford, containing six thousand souls.We crossed at several times to-day two excellent canals, one belonging to the Sankey Navigation Company, and the other to the Duke of Bridgewater. We drove twice under this canal. In Stafford I observed a very decent looking court-house, and upon a hill the central prison of Staffordshire. I also remarked to-day several coal-mines; particularly at the last post between Wolverhampton and Birmingham they are very numerous. For a considerable distance no sign of cultivation was to be seen; nothing was to be seen but coal and iron-works, with steam-machines and colossal chimneys in the form of obelisks, and high flaming furnaces. This district had the appearance of a conflagrated city, several of whose houses were still burning; the sulphurous smell that pervaded the atmosphere, almost took the breath away. As we approached Birmingham, these works began to disappear; we passed through pleasant villages interspersed with charming blooming gardens, and every thing foretold that we were approaching a large and wealthy city. This impression was strengthened on our seeing the citizens returning from the country in their holy-day suits. It was about nine o’clock in the evening, when we reached Birmingham. I took up my quarters in the Royal Hotel, an excellent tavern, where I resided three years previous. In a public advertisement, stating the advantages connected with this establishment, travellers are notified that it is located in the pleasantest part of the town, whereas the finest prospect it presents, opens upon a burial ground, which also answers as a promenade for the inhabitants, and as a playground for children.In Birmingham three years past, I spent several days; I wished, however, to see several things once more, and therefore sojourned a few days in this city. I went to Mr. Thomason’s show-room, where every thing, manufactured inBirmingham, is to beseen. Several rooms contain uncommonly tasteful plated ware, others trinkets, medals, curiosities, steel ware, guns, works in papier maché, crystals, &c. The well known Warwick castle Vase, I again saw of multifarious dimensions; firstly, of the full size in bronze, for which Mr. Thomason had expressly built a small house adjoining his own; then another of smaller dimensions, likewise of bronze, with the marks and ornaments in silver, or silver-gilt, which must make a very elegant appearance at table. I here likewise saw imitations of the greatest precious stones known, in their exact form, size and colour. This collection, in a very neat box, costs twenty-five guineas.Mr. Thomason has connected himself with an artist, who, during his residence of many years in Russia, had acquired at Tula the secret of steel working, and was beginning to imitate it here. In his first essay he tried to inlay a silver waiter with steel; in this attempt, however, he did not succeed properly. Should it succeed, the introduction of this invention into England, would be of great importance, as this art being now confined to Russia, is there considered as a very important secret. Mr. Thomason had likewise the politeness to conduct me to an armory; here an immense quantity of various sword-blades was shown me, and also the mode of trying them; they are strained in a machine, by which they are bent to a certain degree, and then unbent; they are then examined, to see if they are not curved, then a block of steel is struck with the flat of the blade, and a wooden one cut with the edge; and if it is proof to this, it is considered sound, and stamped. At this moment, owing to the existence of profound peace, there was little work done in this manufactory, consequently I could not see the sharpening and polishing of the blades, which takes place in a particular workhouse.In lieu thereof I saw in it the silvering of polished brass wire. This, first of all consists of a piece half an inch thick, which receives a very thin silver covering; it is heated in an oven, seized with tongs, and drawn through different holes, which are cut in pieces of steel, gradually diminishing in size, until they attain the size of a common piece of wire. By this means the wire may be drawn out to the thinness of a hair, and it is remarkable, that it still retains the silver. The tongs are pulled by a patent chain, the links of which are double folded, and for the invention of which, the owner of this establishment has obtained a patent from government. I also visited another show-room, which has only been two years fitted up; it is very splendidly arranged; it has a larger space than Mr. Thomason’s, but is not so richly and well provided.In the evening I went to the theatre; they exhibited the disagreeable tragedy of Jane Shore, after which we had a tolerablepantomime, called the Village Festival, and it closed with an uninteresting melo-drama, the Woodman’s Hut. In the first piece Miss Lacy, from Covent-garden, personified the character of Jane Shore most capitally, and was well supported by several of the other actors; the piece, however, is abominable in itself, and I can imagine nothing more disgusting than to behold an unfortunate being, struggling on the stage in the arms of death. In this country, however, it is a favourite piece. They endeavoured to produce it on the French boards, but it would not take at all. The theatre is well fitted up: it has a pit, two rows of boxes, and a gallery, which can accommodate a great many spectators; on this occasion it was likewise greatly crowded by a noisy mob. I found in the boxes and pit fewer spectators than I expected, the decorations are well painted, and the interior lighted with gas. The provincial theatres receive generally but little encouragement, and their receipts only increase in summer, when the large London theatres of Covent-garden and Drury-lane are closed, and the celebrated actors there engaged, make a trip to the provinces.On the 18th of July, at eight o’clock in the morning, I left Birmingham in a post-chaise and proceeded by a circuitous route to Oxford. I sent on my baggage by the direct course in the stage. I went out of my way for the purpose of visiting the ruins of Kenilworth and Warwick castles. The distance from Birmingham to Oxford by this road is seventy-one miles, the turnpike at times hilly, but invariably good. Our route lay through Knowles, a very charming country town. Kenilworth, on the contrary, is a small ill-looking place, but inclosing splendid ruins of the old castle, which have become universally notorious by the romance of Kenilworth. Excepting the ruins of Paulinzelle, those of Kenilworth are the most beautiful I ever beheld. The castle was built at three different periods. The most ancient northern part erroneously called Cæsar’s tower, was erected about the year 1120, by Geoffroy de Clinton, and was a fortress during the early inland strifes between the barons, the scene of many important events. Towards the close of the fourteenth century, it fell into the possession of John of Gaunt, who added to it the western and largest wing, called after him Lancaster buildings. At a later period Queen Elizabeth bestowed it upon her favourite, the Earl of Leicester, who, in 1571, erected the southern portion, called Leicester buildings; he also built between two towers a tilting yard for tournaments, and erected likewise, the large portico, which now is occupied as a dwelling. In this palace he entertained his queen with a splendid feast, that lasted seventeen days, and which is described in a particular book. After the earl’s death, the castle with its extensivedomains, escheated to the crown. Cromwell partitioned it among several of his officers, who drained the ditch, that circumscribed the greater portion of the castle walls, and likewise destroyed the park, and ultimately the castle, to sell the timber. Nothing but the tower, containing the portico, remains standing, because one of the officers occupied two rooms over the gateway, he turned this building into a dwelling place. This is still to be seen, and is now inhabited by Lord Clarendon’s agent, whose forefathers received a grant of this castle from Charles II.
A military academy was founding in Easton, of which great expectations were formed. It was a private undertaking by Mr. Constant. Since it has been seen, that the military academy at West Point furnishes such excellent subjects, a strict military education is becoming more and more popular in the northern states. The number of pupils at West Point is too limited to admit all the young men for whom application is made. A captain Partridge, who was formerly an officer at West Point, but condemned to be cashiered by a court-martial on account of an act of insubordination towards General Swift and Lieutenant-colonel Thayer, has founded a military school at his own expense at Middletown, in Connecticut, in which he is said to give a very good education and solid instruction to the young men entrusted to him. The result of these schools shows more and more the advantage of a military education, and awakens a spirit of competition among individuals to erect similar schools.
I left Easton, June 9, at four o’clock, in the mail stage, and rode through New Jersey to New York, seventy-two miles. We passed the Delaware, and rode on a good turnpike, through ahilly, well-cultivated country, and through some unimportant places to a tolerably high mountain, called Schooley’s Mountain, where there is a mineral spring much frequented in summer. We afterwards came to a neat place in a handsome valley, called German Valley; then passing through Chester and Mondham, also handsome places, we came to Morristown. All these places in New Jersey are well located, containing generally brick and some large houses; the streets are wide, planted with poplars, and in the centre of each place is a roomy square opening, in the midst of which stands a high pole, whence the national flag waves on public days. Churches also are not wanting; I saw four in Morristown, which appears to contain about one thousand inhabitants. The churches have here generally high and white steeples, so that they may be seen at a considerable distance. We came also through a small place, Springfield, and then reached Elizabethtown, a very handsome place, surrounded with neat country-seats, the greater part of which belong to rich inhabitants of New York. After a short delay we left Elizabethtown, rode two miles farther through a meadow ground, much like Holland, and reached a bay. Here we left the stage, and went on board the steam-boat Bellona, being about fourteen miles distant from New York. This bay is properly an inland lake, and is called Newark bay, after a town on it of the same name. It receives its water from two streams, Passaic and Hackensack, and communicates with the sea towards the south through Staten Island sound, and on the east with the bay of New York through the channel of Castleton, through which we also passed. We had on the left a cape belonging to New Jersey, and on the right Staten Island belonging to New York. As it was narrow here we could see with great ease the handsome country-seats and gardens on both shores. But we enjoyed the handsomest and most unexpected sight, as we entered the bay of New York. On the right was the beautiful shore of Staten Island with Castleton, then the quarantine, where, besides several other vessels, lay a Swedish line-of-battle ship, which being sold to the Colombian government, remained here on account of some difficulties in the payment; beyond the Narrows the sea, then Fort La Fayette; we had in front of us the shore of Long Island, and on the left the bay of New York, with the forts on Governor’s and Bedlow’s Island, and between in the back ground the city of New York, with its pointed spires and forest of masts, in the North and East rivers. This sight is wonderfully beautiful, and well deserves to be represented as a panorama. Arrived in the bay, we turned to the left, passed the above-mentioned fortified islands, left Bedlow’s island and the slightly fortified Ellis’s island, passed Castle-garden, and landed from the North river at seven o’clock in the evening. I immediatelyrepaired to the City Hotel in Broadway, where I had lodged last autumn, and occupied again the same apartment which I then did.
I leave it the reader to imagine with what remarks and feelings I again entered this place. I gratefully turned to the Great Master of Life, who had so manifestly protected me during this long journey, and brought me back again to this place in health!
I passed at this time but few days in New York, and I mention but a few circumstances. I was indeed very busy during these days, but almost every thing was done with a view to my departure.
I made a visit to Colonel Burr, who was a vice-president of the United States at the commencement of this century, and a rival of Mr. Jefferson for the presidency, which was decided in favour of the latter by the vote of Mr. Claiborne. In consequence of this election, Colonel Burr fought a duel with General Hamilton, in which the latter was killed. Burr afterwards went to the western states, and, as it was said, intended to detach these from the eastern, and form them into a separate state. His plan was, however, discovered, and he was arrested, but acquitted for want of sufficient proof. He then travelled through Europe, and now lives at New York as a lawyer. During his travels in Europe, he came, in 1810, to Weimar, and spoke of a remarkably good reception on the part of my father. I found him to be a little old man, with very lively eyes, who spoke very well.
As I went to pay a visit to Mr. Zimmermann, consul of the Netherlands, a fire occurred in a tar manufactory near his house. It was fortunately checked by the excellent fire companies, before it extended. I had scarcely remarked the fire when the bells were rung, and fire cried in all the streets. In less than five minutes engines arrived, each drawn by about thirty people, by means of two long ropes. In New York numerous fire companies exist, among whom the different engines are divided. The members of these companies have voluntarily engaged themselves for this laborious service, and are relieved, in consequence, from jury and military service. They wear a short frock at a fire, of coarse linen, with a leathern belt, and a leathern hat with a number. As in many English cities, there are water pipes laid in the streets, with an inscription at the corner, how many feet distant is the opening. This has an iron cover to which each engine has a key, is brought near, and the water conveyed into it through a leathern hose. As I had nothing to do with the fire, I returned to my lodgings, and passed a second fire in another street. This was, however, less important than the former, and soon extinguished.
I went one evening to the Italian opera in the Park Theatre.This opera was established here last autumn, and is an attempt to transplant this exotic fruit to American ground. It does not, however, appear adapted to the taste of the public here; at least the speculation of the Italian theatre is not so profitable as was expected. The members of this theatre came from the Italian opera in London. At their head stands Signor Garcia, a very good bass. The orchestra was not numerous, but complete, and was directed by a French pianist, Mr. Etienne. Don Giovanni, by Mozart, was given; it was a great satisfaction to me to see this classic piece so well represented. At first nothing but operas of Rossini were played, but now operas of Mozart are preferred to the former by judges in this place. The price has been raised, and two dollars is asked for the first tier. The theatre continues till half past eleven, when one returns home through well-lighted streets.
As I heard that Governor Clinton was in the city, I hastened to pay him my respects, but did not find him at home; on this occasion I again saw how large the city was. The house where the governor lived is nearly two miles distant from the City Hotel, without being out of the city. I remarked that since last autumn three new churches have been built here, of which one, a presbyterian, was very tasteful; since this time also several new houses had been erected in this quarter. The number of the inhabitants of the city increases exceedingly, it now supposed to amount to one hundred and seventy thousand.
I rode also to the navy-yard in Brooklyn, on Long Island, where I paid a visit to the worthy Commodore Chauncy. I found him with his interesting family in excellent health, but very busy, for he had just despatched the corvette Lexington to New Foundland, in order to protect the American fishermen against the chicaneries of vessels of war belonging to other nations, cruising about there. I saw also the frigate Brandywine, which had returned from the Mediterranean sea, after taking General La Fayette to France; she was now undergoing repairs, in order to go to the Pacific ocean. A frigate and corvette were building.
I saw also the celebrated chess-player of Kempelen, which, with some other curiosities is exhibited by its present owner, the mechanician Mr. Maelzel, from Vienna. He is said to have already gained much money with it in New York. The automaton represents a Turk, sitting behind the table with a chess-board before him. A table with another chess-board stands opposite, on which any of the company begins a game of chess with the automaton. When the automaton is to make a move, a noise of wheels is heard in the table, and at the same time the Turk lifts his left hand, which rests on a cushion, opens his fingers, takesthe piece, makes the move, closes his hand, and places it on the cushion again. If his antagonist makes a false move, the Turk knocks with his right hand on the table in anger, shakes his head, and expresses his indignation by a sound. When the Turk gained a game, Mr. Maelzel wound up the machine like a clock, by means of a handle at the table, then the Turk took a knight and placed it successively once in every square. The whole machine stands on four wheels, and may be very easily moved from one part of the chamber to the other. Whilst the Turk plays the game, Mr. Maelzel stands by; but it cannot be seen in what manner he directs his movements. It is said that Mr. Maelzel is negotiating with the keeper of the National Hotel, where he exhibited his automaton, for the purchase of the chess-player, and has already received an offer of nineteen thousand dollars.
After Mr. Maelzel had moved back the player, he showed us a small figure made of pasteboard, and representing a violoncello player, which moves his head and both hands. Mr. Maelzel plays several pieces on the piano, and the small figure accompanies him with his violoncello, keeping exact time. He then showed us a trumpeter as large as life, who plays several pieces with the trumpet in a masterly manner, and with his trumpet accompanies Mr. Maelzel, who plays the piano. I had already seen this trumpeter in 1809, at Vienna, and I also recollected to have seen the chess-player in 1812, in Milan, in the palace of the then vice-king of Italy. Mr. Maelzel finally showed us three small automata a foot and a half high. One of them represents a little girl, which when its arm is moved cries maman; the other a clown, who made grimaces and cried oh la la! This and another smaller figure were placed on a rope, on which they performed various evolutions.
To Castle-garden, on the battery, I went about seven o’clock in the evening. The tasteful illumination is effected by gas. A handsome and large saloon is also arranged here, where various refreshments may be obtained. A good orchestra played the whole evening, and rockets ascended from time to time. I was particularly pleased with the walk on the upper gallery, whence there is a beautiful view of Hudson river and the bay. It was a moonlight evening; the water was calm, and a gentle wind from the sea, refreshed the sultry atmosphere in a very agreeable manner.
At a visit which I made to Governor Clinton, in the City Hall, where his office is, I saw in the room of audience several handsome portraits by Sully, Peale, Trumbull, &c. I was most pleased with a full length portrait of the deceased CommodorePerry. This naval hero was represented at the moment of leaving in a small boat his vessel, which had became useless, and going on boardof another, in which he gained his splendid victory over the English on Lake Erie. There is also here a full length portrait of General Jackson, and of Generals Brown, Macomb, and Swift, as well as those of Commodores Hull, Decatur, Bainbridge, M‘Donough and Chauncy, and of the former Governor Lewis. There is also a very good portrait of Ex-President Monroe, as well as of several of the earlier Governors of New York, among whom is one of the last Dutch Governors, Peter Stuyvezant, in full armour. In another hall appropriated to the meetings of the corporation, there is a portrait by Trumbull of the great Washington, and opposite to this, a portrait of the elder Governor Clinton, uncle of De Witt Clinton, as well as those of General Hamilton and Chief Justice Jay.
To my great delight I met with my fellow traveller, Mr. Bowdoin; we were much together; in company with him I paid a visit to the English Admiral, Sir Isaac Coffin. He is an American by birth, and although he belongs to the English navy and is a member of parliament, his whole heart still clings to his native country, and he has come hither to see it again before his death.
I was much disappointed at a second visit to the Italian opera. Il barbiere di Seviglia was announced, but on account of the indisposition of the SignorinaGarcia, it was not represented. The same folly prevails among the public here, as among the English, to require a repetition of the greater part of the airs, even of the most difficult songs, without regard to the exhaustion of the singer.
I visited again, in company with the Rev. Mr. Schaeffer, the excellent institution, called House of Refuge for juvenile offenders. This institution has increased since last autumn, and now contains ninety-three young persons of both sexes; at present, however, there are only twenty-three of the female sex. Such an institution is certainly worthy of imitation; for children, who are led astray by wrong inclinations, by the wickedness of their parents, and by bad company, are brought back again to the right road, whereas in other countries they are shut up in public prisons with old offenders, and thereby they become still more corrupted. The house intended for the boys was finished, and inhabited by them. They were at this time employed in building another for the girls, parallel with the former. The boys sleep each alone in a cell on a piece of sail cloth, which they spread out and fasten by four pegs. These are long rooms, which serve as school rooms, and are on one side of the building two stories high. The second row is reached by wooden steps, and a gallery runs before the cells of this row. All the boys are employed; either in receiving instruction or in attending to some mechanicalbusiness. They are taylors, shoemakers, weavers, joiners, and basket-makers. I saw here a machine to cut out shoe soles and heels. Sharp irons are formed according to the shape, which is designed for the sole or heel; these irons are placed on a pair of wet hides, and brought under an iron press, which is worked like those in the mint. The boys who distinguish themselves by their industry and good behaviour, are placed in the first class, and carry on the left arm a brass plate, with the inscription, first class, as a mark of distinction. Those on the contrary, who have endeavoured to escape, drag a chain with a heavy iron ball. The period of detention in this institution is left to the discretion of the commissioners; they may be detained till their twenty-first year.
In order to show me the boys, the director gave notice with a whistle, upon which they arranged themselves, according to their size. Several large and strong fellows stood on the right wing, among which I saw one of a very good appearance, whom I saw here last year as clerk. His family had confined him here on account of an irresistible propensity to steal, against which, neither exhortation nor severe corporeal punishment availed. I saw two little boys of seven years, on the left wing, who had already begun to steal. The biography of every one is written in a separate book, and a journal afterwards kept of his behaviour, punishments, &c. The director of the house showed me some of these biographies; they are psychologically, exceedingly remarkable. The greater part of the boys had been induced to steal by larger ones, who have been confined on account of this offence in the penitentiary or state prison. The director called the former of these institutions the academy, and the latter the university for thieves. The benefit of this house of refuge is perceived in the clearest manner from these biographies, it is seen of what importance it is to anticipate the development of crime. It is certainly an effective mode of improving the morality of the lower classes. They say that it is more difficult to keep the girls in order, than the boys, and that upon the whole, the former are much worse than the latter. They are generally seduced, when they are but nine or ten years old. When not engaged in receiving instruction, they are employed in female occupations.
After leaving this interesting institution, we repaired to the alms-house on the East river. With the alms-house they have connected the workhouse, in which criminals are confined and employed for the benefit and advantage of the city. The institution was erected at the expense of the city, and consists of three long massive buildings, three stories high, with several side buildings, designed for hospitals, schools, smithshops, &c. The whole is surrounded with a wall, and divisions made in the interior,to separate the paupers from the criminals. The offices and the rooms occupied by the officers, as well as those of the poor, are arranged in the building fronting on the river, the second house also contains rooms for the poor, and workshops, in which those who can yet work, are usefully employed. About twelve hundred helpless poor people and children, among which are many foundlings, are here supported. They inhabit large halls, which, however, have a bad smell, and I missed that cleanliness, which is indispensably necessary in such an establishment. A poor-house, is at best an unpleasant, and when it is not cleanly kept, a disgusting sight. Those who are confined, are criminals of a lower kind, the worst are not confined longer than three years. The men work during the day, either in the fields belonging to the city, or in the public streets. A chain is attached to their leg, and they are under the inspection of appointed sentinels. The women are employed in various manners. A treading-mill was formerly in operation in a side building; but this has not been used for a year, as it was thought injurious to the health of the prisoners. A kind of typhus raged in the prison last year, which carried off numbers of the prisoners. These sleep in separate cells, each of which, is seven feet long, and three feet broad. Each prisoner has here, as in the house of refuge, a piece of sail cloth, spread out on four pegs, on which he sleeps. There is a small grate in each door, which admits the necessary light into the cell. There are sixty cells in one hall, all on one side, in five rows above each other; each row has a small gallery. The hall receives its light from above. A pulpit, opposite the cells, is erected in this hall for worship; the prisoners who are confined during the service, stand behind the grate in their doors, whence they may see the minister. The whole arrangement has, as remarked above, a handsome and open situation; there is a belvidere on the roof of the front house, whence a handsome and extensive prospect may be enjoyed.
On the last day of my stay in New York and in America, I went with Mr. Zimmermann into some stores, and walked in some of the oldest parts of the city. In these parts the streets are crooked, narrow and gloomy, well adapted to retain the yellow fever. In the neighbourhood, however, of the alms-house there is a building three stories high, where the incurable lunatics, supported by the corporation of the city, are received; but the two upper stories are designed to receive, when the yellow fever appears, those who suffer with this dreadful evil, in order to remove, as quickly as possible, the infection from the city. Some old Dutch houses stand in the narrow streets, built by the first settlers, consisting only of a lower story, with the gable-ends towards the street. They are building in Wall street, a newexchange, which, when completed, will be a handsome building. The post-office is already placed in its lower story. Wall street is the street in which the most commercial business is done, and in which most of the banks stand; it is to be regretted that it is one of the ugliest streets in the city.
After having paid some farewell visits, I passed a part of my last evening in America, in a very agreeable manner in the house of Mrs. Bell. It is the most agreeable house for strangers in New York, in which they always meet with a very good reception. I enjoyed also, for several hours, the company of Mr. Bowdoin, and of Colonel Jones, the brother-in-law of Governor Clinton.
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Return Voyage from New York to Liverpool.
Tomy great and sincere regret, the hour at length arrived when I was constrained to leave this happy and prosperous land, in which I had seen and learned so much, and in whichmuchmore still remained to be seen and learned:sed fata trahunt hominem!
On the 16th of June, at ten, A. M., I proceeded to Whitehall, the southernmost point of the battery, accompanied by Mr. Zimmermann, Mr. George Beiden, and Mr. Armstrong, the American Consul at Port-au-Prince. Close alongside the wharf, the steam-boat Nautilus, which plies between New York and Staten Island, lay ready to take passengers on board the Pacific, one of the Liverpool and New York packets, on board of which I had taken passage for Europe. The Pacific had on the preceding day, sailed down to the quarantine ground. The gentlemen above namedaccompaniedme to the vessel. We were scarcely on board the steam-boat before she departed on her trip. She was tolerably crowded, inasmuch as she not only carried the Pacific’s passengers, but likewise their friends, who accompanied them, and the passengers for Staten Island. The rain fell in torrents, and the passage was rather unpleasant.
After stopping a few moments at Staten Island to land some passengers, we reached the Pacific in an hour. The wind being contrary, the ship could not put to sea. Not far from us lay the packet ship Edward Quesnell, which had left New York the day previous, and likewise, owing to head winds, could not proceedon her voyage. This ship belongs to the Havre-de-Grace line, trading between that port and New York. Our friends and acquaintances, who had come to bid us farewell, after partaking of a luncheon, returned in the Nautilus to the city. Now I once again was compelled to arm myself with patience! I recalled the time, when I was obliged to remain fourteen long days on board the Pallas, in the Road of Goeree, and I now consoled myself with a more pleasing situation. At that time I had just torn myself from the dearest objects of my heart; I contemplated a tedious stay in England, a dangerous voyage, in a word, to encounter a host of difficulties, and moreover found myself, in an inclement season of the year on board a ship, which was to bring me to a new world. These difficulties were now overcome; the voyage had been accomplished, and I was conscious that the object of my free choice, had been truly fulfilled to the best of my endeavours. According to a close calculation, I found that from my landing in Boston, to the time of my re-embarkation for Europe, I had travelled over a distance of seven thousand one hundred and thirty-five miles! How happy was I on board the Pacific! The greatest tranquillity, order and discipline, the utmost comfort in respect to quarters; a sedulous attendance, profuse and palatable meals, seasoned with the best of wines, graced our splendid board.
The first day was employed by the passengers, about twenty in number, in making themselves at home; I passed the afternoon and evening in reading and writing. The rain abated towards night, but the wind remained unchanged. Among the passengers I observed a Dr. Garret, a surgeon attached to the seventieth English regiment of the line, whose acquaintance I had made in Montreal, during the summer previous, also two Catholic clergymen of that city, Abbés Roux and Richards, a Mr. Wilkins, and Mr. Adair, an Irishman, and also several gentlemen from Jamaica, a Swiss merchant named Hoffel, and a young Hamburger, called Drusina, who had lately returned from Mexico, where he was partner in an English commercial house, a very genteel young man, and lastly a Dr. Cabell of Richmond, in Virginia, with his wife, a sister of Mrs. General Scott, and with their charming friend, Miss Caroline Marx, also a resident of Richmond.
Though we had no rain on the 17th of June, still the wind continued unfavourable; the Edward Quesnell had gone farther out to sea, and the Pacific did the same. The anchor was weighed, we spread our sails, and coasted for some miles along the shore to the Sandy Hook light-house, located on a point of land belonging to the state of New Jersey; here we again joined the Edward Quesnell and cast anchor close to her. While sailing alongthe coast, I was visited by my old acquaintance, sea-sickness, which however did not last long. While attacked by this sickness, I gratefully recalled to mind the goodness of Providence, in having preserved me from all disease during my long journey through the American continent! In England I had several attacks of rheumatism in the left arm and shoulder; but these pains disappeared during my voyage to Boston. Owing to the unhealthiness of the climate in the neighbourhood of Lake Ontario and the riverSt.Lawrence, I had a breaking out in the face, which ultimately increased to a scab on the chin, and of which I did not get rid for several months. To this I have to add the unfortunate injury from the carriage at Greenbush, which caused violent pains in my chest. All these left me the moment I reached the genial climate of the southern states, and during my stay in New Orleans I did not feel the least inconvenience, and when, during the journey, I experienced now and then a slight indisposition, it was doubtless to be attributed solely to the water that I was compelled to drink; it was but short in its duration, and, upon the whole, during my travels, I enjoyed perfect health.
The country adjacent to the spot where our ship lay, opposite the quarantine hospital at Staten Island, until this morning, is uncommonly beautiful. On leaving this station, we passed through the Narrows, beheld on our right Fort Richmond on Staten Island, to our left Fort La Fayette, and in the back ground, on a hill of Long Island, Fort Hamilton, in the erection of which they were busily engaged. Then we left the charming high coast of Staten Island and came in sight of the bleak low lands of Sandy Hook, with Long Island to the left, and the ocean before us. The Sandy Hook light-house is a high white tower, surrounded by small underwood; to the south of it, and tolerably distant from each other, are two small towers, likewise furnished with lanterns, whose lights are, however, not to be seen at so great a distance at sea as that of the large one. They serve as landmarks for mariners.
As we lay so near the Edward Quesnell, I went towards evening in a boat on board that vessel, in order to see how the passengers, and particularly the worthy Mr. Hottinguer, whom I have heretofore mentioned, were situated. Although this ship is well constructed and provided with state-rooms, still it is by no means so elegant and comfortable as the Pacific, nor is it so large. She had thirty-five cabin passengers, with a number of children; they were greatly straightened for room. Besides Mr. Hottinguer, I met several acquaintances; Colonel de Quartel,II.36Baron Lederer,II.37with his two sons, whom he intended to place at a school in Germany; Major Chotard,II.38with his lady and four children, and also a young Italian scene-painter, from New Orleans, called Fogliardi, who married there a very old but extremely rich wife, and was on his way to France and Italy, to escape with his better half from the quizzical jokes of the wicked wags of New Orleans. Although the deck of the Edward Quesnell was very narrow, Mr. Hottinguer had received a present of an elegant saddle-horse from his friends at New York, which, to please those friends, he was forced to take with him; therefore there was a stable erected for it on the deck, which took up a great space, and caused much inconvenience. Mr. Hottinguer and Colonel de Quartel accompanied me back to the Pacific, and remained some time with me. It was a charming moonlight evening; the wind, however, still continued unfavourable.
On the 18th of June, just one year had elapsed since I departed in the Pallas from Falmouth. The whole of this day we had dull weather; the wind remained unfavourable, and the vessel rode at anchor. Among our fellow travellers there were several very agreeable individuals. The English military surgeon was a very sprightly man, who perfectly understood how to cheer up the spirits of the ladies. Mr. Wilkins, a very elegant young man of good education, had been previously introduced to me by Governor Clinton in New York. One of the clergymen, the Abbé Leroux, an elderly Frenchman, we found tolerably dull. With regard to the other, the Abbé Richards, I heard it stated, that he had been originally a Protestant minister in Virginia, and had removed to Montreal, to endeavour to make proselytes in the seminary of that place; but in his controversies he became so won over to the Catholic faith, that he was not only converted, but likewise took the orders of Catholic priesthood. One of our boats went ashore, and the steward brought back some fresh provisions, among others tolerably large clams, which, when roasted or stewed in a rich sauce, resemble the flavour of the lobster, as likewise a species of large crab, termed horse-shoe, which resembles the Molucca crab, having a long pointed spine instead of a tail. The form of the shell of this crab resembles a horse-shoe; seen from the under part it is all alive; they have ten nippers, with which they seize their prey, and which answer likewise for feet. In the afternoon we received a visit from Mr. Hottinguer, Colonel de Quartel, Baron Lederer, and Mr. Fogliardi. I escorted those gentlemen back to the Edward Quesnell. The sea running rather high, we were splashed by the salt water. Our trip seenfrom the ship must have had a dangerous aspect, for it was really affecting to behold with what tenderness Madam Fogliardi caressed her young husband, as he once more happily stood on the deck. I also became acquainted on board the Edward Quesnell with a Portuguese, Dr. Constancio, and his wife. During the ephemeral government of the Cortes in his native land, this individual was Portuguese ambassador near the government of the United States, and had subsequently, during the existence of the counter-revolution, lost his office. After remaining half an hour on board the Edward Quesnell, Mr. Croker took me back in his long-boat to the Pacific. We made the transition in less than four minutes. This Mr. Croker is a Quaker, and an experienced seaman; he had crossed the ocean one hundred and thirty-four times.
During the next three days the wind remained unfavourable. Several vessels from Liverpool, were making port; one of them had only been twenty-six days on her voyage. We were likewise, approached by several small vessels bound to different foreign countries, and like us, contending with a contrary wind. Towards evening I received a note from Messrs. Leroy, Bayard & Co. in New York, acquainting me with the failure of the firm of Fries & Co. in Vienna. As I had formerly been very hospitably received by that house, and was personally acquainted with all the individuals belonging to it, their misfortunes deeply afflicted me.
On the 22d, the rain abated and the weather began to clear up, but the wind continued steadily blowing from the east, which kept us in the same spot. Nothing interrupted the uniformity of our mode of living, which we beguiled by reading the newspapers that we received from the city, and looking at vessels coming from England, running into port before the wind. One of these vessels had one hundred and forty Irish emigrants on board. The James Cropper, a ship belonging to the line, had sailed on the 16thultimofrom Liverpool. Two days previous, the Silas Richards, another of the same line, had also arrived, which left Liverpool on the 24th ult. In one of the New York papers, we found a letter from the master of this vessel, in which he stated, that he had seen the celebrated sea serpent, not far from the American coast.
During the 23d of June, we still remained becalmed; the weather was cloudy and rainy throughout the whole day. Mr. Hottinguer, who likewise began to feel the effects of ennui on board his vessel, paid me a visit, took a luncheon and dined with us, and passed the greater part of the day in our company. When in the evening he returned to the Edward Quesnell, I accompanied him, and made a short visit to my half despairing acquaintances.One of our boats had gone towards land upon a fishing excursion, and came back loaded with a rich collection of various kinds of fish: flounders, bluefish, and herrings in abundance; clams, crabs beautifully coloured with blue and red; large sea-shells of extraordinary form, several bass and a small fish, with a brown back, resembling a toad, with a thick white belly, which it fills with air to such a degree, that the whole fish has the appearance of a ball, three-fourths of it are white, and one-fourth forming the back, brown. When this fish is caught and dies, the air gradually escapes from it, and it ultimately assumes the form of an empty bladder.
At last, on the 24th, the weather became somewhat clear and the wind came round favourably for us. At noon the anchor was weighed and we spread our sails. A number of vessels, desirous to avail themselves of the fair wind, were coming down from New York and the quarantine ground. The line packet, John Wells, next in rotation to the Pacific, made likewise its appearance from port, which was no doubt the principal cause of our hastily hoisting sail. I counted more than fifty vessels of all sizes, putting to sea. The wind in the beginning was so slight, that we could only move along with the ebb tide. We doubled the low cape of Sandy Hook; in the back ground we saw the light-house, surrounded by underwood, and in front of it, like two outposts, the two low stony beacons. Not far from the light-house, stands a half ruined block-house, in which during the last war a military post was stationed; it now answers as a landmark for mariners. In the rear of the high light-house, at a distance of several miles, towers the highland of Navesink, presenting a charming prospect. To the south one discovers the long and low coast of New Jersey, and perceives the sea-baths of Long Branch, which during the heat of summer are numerously visited by the fashionables of New York and Philadelphia. The heights of Staten Island with Fort Richmond are seen, to the right of them are the Narrows, and farther to the right the southernmost high coast of Long Island, gradually fading from the view. In the centre of the Narrows, Fort La Fayette stretches out, like a solitary point. As we put farther out to sea, we saw several buoys, which designated the shallows, through the midst of which the skilful pilot brought us safely. Two small vessels were employed in fishing up lost anchors. The pilot remarked, that the anchors of the French fleet under Admiral De Grasse, had remained here ever since the time of the American revolutionary war. This fleet owing to the unskilfullness of two pilots, was compelled to part with its anchors. When an enemy’s fleet blockades New York, the shipping make to Sandy Hook bay, properly called Raritan bay, for shelter against storms, andare thus enabled to blockade the Narrows very closely. Should a fleet wish to force the passage, it can, as I remarked last fall, neither be prevented from so doing by Fort Richmond, nor Fort La Fayette. In a conversation which I had with General Bernard, he stated, that he would prevent a close blockade by means of two strong casemated forts, which he would erect on the before-mentioned shallows, whereby the enemy would be perfectly excluded from Raritan bay. This project could not, however, be realised at that time, because the grant of funds by congress were to be appropriated to the completion of the works on the fortress already commenced.
In the afternoon, the pilot at length left us, and we found ourselves on the open sea. Although the wind blew very gently, still the sea, owing to the late storm, ran very high. The ship rolled dreadfully and many of our passengers were sea-sick. I also felt somewhat unwell, but my complaint did not produce vomiting.
During the 25th of June the wind not being favourable, we made but little progress. The weather was rather unpleasant, and the whole day clouded with a thick fog, almost as dense as that through which we made our way during last year on the banks of Newfoundland. Towards the afternoon the weather brightened up a little. We spoke two ships, the Camillus, of New York, from Greenock, in Scotland, with Scotch emigrants, bound to New York, and a small brig from New Brunswick, in ballast, to New York. A shark followed our ship for some time. It gave me particular pleasure to perceive what tranquillity reigned on board, that no swearing was to be heard, and that every thing tended to the comfort of the passengers.
During the night rain fell, and on the 26th of June we had likewise several showers. We perceived the Edward Quesnell astern of us, and set several additional sails that she might not reach us. The wind was not very favourable, and blowing from the south-east, it drove us into the neighbourhood of the perilous George’s bank, which we so carefully avoided last year. Therefore we changed our course and stood to the south. It became imperiously necessary this year to keep aloof from the bank of Newfoundland, because we had been assured that a great quantity of detached ice had come down from the north, and setting on the bank in the shape of bergs and fields of ice, had rendered the passage extremely dangerous. Several of our passengers, and I among the number, had not entirely recovered from the effects of sea-sickness.
On the 27th of June the wind had come round favourably to the west, so that we were enabled to hoist a larger quantity of canvass. In the forenoon there was a heavy swell, which mademe sea-sick. While labouring under this unpleasant sensation, it is difficult to conceive how men can expose themselves to the dangers of the sea, while there is a comfortable house and quiet bed at home. But scarcely is it over, or scarcely have we put foot on shore before all these inconveniences are forgotten, and one thinks little of embarking again. The sea gradually became more still, the weather charmingly warm, and an awning was spread over a part of the deck, under which we collected, and even the ladies, who had slowly recovered from sea-sickness, joined us, to breathe the fresh air. In the evening, we were regaled with music; one of the steerage passengers blew tolerably well on the bugle, amused his companions therewith, and we listened to his strains at a distance. There was some musical talent among ourselves; a young Scotch gentleman from Jamaica, named Leslie, played elegantly on the flute, and often delighted us. Several water birds followed our ship; it is a species of bird resembling a swallow, called petrel, and termed mother Carey’s chickens by sailors, who say that they never alight upon land, and as their nests are not readily found, it is hard to tell where they propagate. A large vessel, which we supposed to be either the Edward Quesnell or the John Wells, followed constantly in our wake; but our heavy press of sail kept us always in advance. It is a matter of surprise, how such a large quantity of sail can be managed by so few hands, for we had but fifteen sailors and two boys; however, the steerage passengers were obliged to lend a hand to the manœuvres on deck; there were thirteen of these on board; they are similar to the deck passengers in the steam-boats; they pay but little, provide their own provisions, and are narrowly lodged in a small place below decks, near the fore-mast, and are not allowed, unless when working, to show themselves abaft the mainmast, inasmuch as this place is solely reserved for the cabin passengers. On board our vessel, the sailors slept in quarters provided for them on the deck, between the fore-mast and the bowsprit.
During the whole of the 28th of June we were favoured with a prosperous breeze and fine weather. Our situation was, by a midday observation, 40° 3´ latitude, and 65° 4´ longitude. Since yesterday we had seen grass floating close to the ship. Thence we concluded that we had already entered the favouring Gulf Stream. The awning was again spread. Mrs. Cabell and Miss Marx, who had recovered by degrees from their indisposition, presented themselves to-day upon deck, and made a considerable change in the tedious uniformity of our late mode of living. In the evening Mr. Leslie brought his flute, and delighted us with music; finally, we began to dance on deck, although from the motion of the ship it did not succeed well.
On the 29th of June, both wind and weather continued favourable to us; otherwise things remained as before. Captain Croker, who did every thing in his power to entertain his passengers, set off in the evening a couple of rockets, and other fire-works, which afforded us much pleasure. Mr. Croker, who is very experienced in a seafaring life, related us many of his adventures on the deep, which we found very interesting. We twice perceived swarms of flying fish arise from the water, which after flying a considerable distance, plunged anew into their native element; they did not, however, come sufficiently near to enable us to observe them distinctly. A large dolphin likewise made its appearance, and we were still escorted by mother Carey’s chickens, and saw numerous sea-gulls.
On the 30th of June no change; wind favourable, weather fine and clear, and a curiosity in natural history! We generally kept a pair of hooks in our wake. One of these hooks had caught a mollusc which goes by the name ofPortuguese man-of-war. It is of a violet colour, and has a spongy body with long feelers and two bladders, the largest of which is about the size of a carp. This bladder the animal fills with air at pleasure, in order to enable itself to swim, and when the sun shines upon it, it displays very fine colours. Otherwise we caught nothing, as heretofore, because fish most generally avoid copper-bottomed vessels, such as ours. In the evening we saw in the ship’s wake the phosphoric sealight.
Under a continually favourable wind, we made great progress on the 2d of July, and had the agreeable certainty of leaving the bank of Newfoundland behind us, so that we had reason to hope, during the remainder of our voyage, not to be again incommoded by fogs; latitude 41° 24´, longitude 50°. Notwithstanding the constantly favourable and fresh breezes, the sea was so smooth, that our ship had no more motion than if we were sailing on a stream. And thus passed off the third of July; the air, which had thus far been very warm, became to-day rather cool, which made our cabin very comfortable. At a cable’s length from our vessel we perceived a numerous herd of porpoises, which were sporting on the surface of the water; latitude 42°, longitude 46° 48´.
The 4th of July was the fiftieth anniversary of the Declaration of American Independence; it was of course duly celebrated on board our vessel. The American flag was hoisted early, and at dinner more wine than usual, and of various kinds, was drank freely. Several toasts were proposed: Mr. Croker drank the health of the King of England; whereupon Dr. Garret proposed that of the President of the United States; I gave Governor Clinton’s; thereupon followed a great many of like kind. Wewere pretty gay and cheerful, and drank till tolerably late. Several gentlemen got head-aches, and became sea-sick; and many laughable scenes took place. I stole into my state-room, in order to avoid similar mishap.
On the 5th of July we had the good fortune to meet a large whale, which spouted the water high above him in all directions. He did not, however, honour us a long time with his presence, but pursued his course, and we ours, though with much greater velocity; for at the usual meridian observation, we found our latitude 44° 9´ and our longitude 39° 38´. In the morning we had little wind, but when towards evening it freshened, we made from eight to nine miles an hour. Up to this period our voyage had been most prosperous, continually fair wind and the sea very smooth. During three days we had seen a brig at the distance of some miles from us, which was going on the same course, but our ship being a better sailer, we left it to-day considerably behind.
On the 7th of July, weather dull, with occasional rain; which rendered it cold and uncomfortable. Latitude 46° 50´, longitude 30° 31´; wind towards afternoon rather strong, sea running very high with the wind in our stern; this increased the motion of our ship, which was constantly pitching from one side to the other. What was not properly fastened gave way. This gave rise to many droll scenes. The ladies, who were unaccustomed to this new unpleasantness attending a sea voyage, became frightened; they conceived that danger was near, and we had considerable trouble in allaying their fears. One of them entreated in the most affecting manner, several gentlemen, who were whiling away their time at a game of whist, and others who were engaged at back-gammon, not to bring down the vengeance of heaven, and not to increase the danger that surrounded us, by sinful card-playing and unholy back-gammon! But there was no danger whatever to apprehend, though the rolling of the vessel was unpleasant; the passengers scarcely knew where to go, or what to do, for it was even impossible to sleep, inasmuch as the shocking rolling threatened us with a fall from our beds.
We pursued our course swiftly during the 8th of July. Latitude 47° 58´, longitude 25° 10´. In the forenoon the sea was calmer, but during the afternoon, and particularly in the evening, it ran so high that the ship pitched more than yesterday. The weather was, during the whole of the day, unpleasant, cloudy, and rainy, and it was with the greatest difficulty that we kept our feet on the wet deck. In the evening, I observed again in the sea the phosphoric light; some parts of the water sparkled like fireflies.II.39We overtook a brig, apparently bound on our course;on this occasion we once more remarked what a good sailer the Pacific is, for when we discovered the brig, she was far ahead of us, and although she had all her sails set, we not only soon overtook her, but soon left her far behind us. We did not approach her sufficiently near to speak. During this damp weather, I acknowledged the superior construction of the Pacific to that of the Pallas; whilst in the latter the moisture penetrated throughout, and exerted its noxious influence on a variety of articles liable to rot, and spread through the whole vessel an insupportable foul smell; every thing in the Pacific was dry, and in our cabin we had not suffered at all from the existing humidity.
The night of the 8th and 9th of July I passed very unpleasantly, owing to the rolling of the vessel; I was every moment on the point of falling out of my bed, and it was only towards six o’clock in the morning that I began to enjoy some repose. The day brought with it clear weather. The wind had been so favourable for the last twenty-four hours, that we found ourselves in latitude 48° 40´, and longitude 19° 12´. In the afternoon the wind became variable and blew from various quarters; we experienced several squalls accompanied by showers of rain. At last it set in strong from the north-west, and drove us forward at the rate of eleven miles per hour. Towards evening we came up with a vessel bound from Savannah for Liverpool, spoke her, and gave her our longitude. Their reckoning differed from ours, as they believed themselves to be in longitude 16°. The sea ran rather high while we were in the neighbourhood of this vessel, so that we could not have a long talk with her, nor even rightly understand her name. We left her far behind us.
On the 10th of July, the wind continued favourable, there was a heavy swell of the sea, and much motion in the vessel. The weather clearing off towards noon, we were enabled to make exact observations, which we could not do for some days before, on account of the cloudy weather. It appeared, that we had made a small mistake in our computation of the longitude, for by the precise observation of this day, we found our latitude to be fifty degrees twenty-two minutes, and our longitude seventeen degrees. We saw already several birds, a proof that we were approaching land; we continually saw petrels and mother Carey’s chickens. The more we sailed northwards, we felt the air becoming cooler, which created in me no pleasant sensation.
The 11th of July was rather windy and rainy; in other respects matters remained in statu quo. Latitude fifty degrees thirty minutes, longitude twelve degrees fifty-five minutes. We hoped to find ourselves on the next day on the Nymph bank, which stretches from the south of Ireland, far into the sea, nor were wedeceived in our expectations, for very early on the 12th of July, we experienced an uncommonly heavy motion, and the waves ran as high as in a storm, although the wind was not strong. This served as an assurance, that we had attained the Nymph bank. The motion of the sea here is caused by the pressure of great masses of water upon the bank, whereby the under water is cast up, and driven with great force towards the surface. The lead was hove for soundings several times since midnight, as we lay still too far to the south, to be governed by landmarks; had the weather not been so hazy, we could easily have distinguished Cape Clear, the south-westernmost point of Ireland, consisting of a single high rock, jutting out into the sea, and provided with a light-house. While we were seated at dinner, land was discovered. We mounted on deck, and beheld the high coast of the county of Cork in Ireland; the weather continued so hazy and rainy, that we could not have a clear and fine view of the land. I was surprised at the indifference with which I contemplated the first European land that now met my view, and particularly when I compared this indifference with the joyful enthusiasm, with which, one year past, on the 24th of July. I put my foot for the first time on the soil of America! But at that time every thing was new to me, and my expectations were wrought up to the highest pitch; now on the contrary, I could only expect to see what was generally familiar. After dinner we perceived off the coast of Ireland, two islands with high hills, called the Saltees, and near them a three-masted ship, as a floating light at anchor. We met likewise a steam-boat, bound from Milford in Wales, to Waterford in Ireland. It lay rather low in the water, and as the wind blew strong from the west, the sea ran so high, that I did not at all envy the condition of the passengers in the steam-boat, over whose deck the waves were constantly beating. The sight of land made our passengers more cheerful, and towards evening we became more happy than usual.
On the morning of the 13th of July, the wind was uncommonly mild, the weather, however, cleared up, so that we gradually discovered the lofty and mountainous coast of Wales. Among these high mountains, we particularly distinguished that of Snowdon, which towered above the others, until its pinnacle became lost in the clouds; it is about four thousand feet high. We descried the Isle of Anglesea next, and came so near it, that we could perceive distinctly its rough, high and precipitous rocks, arising from the ocean. On the highest of these rocks, stands a watch-house with a signal pole; we showed our number; every vessel that trades with Liverpool, is there furnished with a number, under which it is inscribed in the book of the exchange, andour signal was immediately hoisted over the watch-house. By a chain of telegraphs, the news of our arrival reached Liverpool in a moment, at the distance of sixty miles. Under the high rock of Anglesea, is a smaller, more isolated rock, on which stands a white light-house, which contrasts charmingly with the dark rocks. From the higher rock, a zigzag path, cut in the rock and surrounded with a white wall, leads to a bridge, suspended by ropes, over which you enter this little island. As we approached it towards noon, the wind sprang up, and we enjoyed the majestic spectacle of the waves breaking on the black rocks. Then we made the highlands of Holyhead, doubled them and directed our course to the east. Behind the cape, the beautifully situated town of Holyhead with its harbour burst upon our view. This English harbour is the nearest to the Irish coast; between it and Dublin there is a regular communication by steam-boats. We tacked and stood over to the coast of Wales, and were delighted with the appearance of its fresh green soil; its neat houses and churches. The green hedges with which the fields and meadows are encompassed, produce a very pleasing sensation; I however observed, that there was a great scarcity of trees. The scenery towards the sea side began likewise to be more lively, as there was a great number of vessels in view. At last the pilot-boat came up, and put a pilot on board. As one approaches England from the European continent, the elegant construction of these one-masted cutter pilot-boats and their quick sailing, excites astonishment; but if one is bound from the United States, and has beheld their elegant shipping, and particularly the New York pilot-boat schooners, there is no reason for surprise, for the English shipping is far inferior to the American.
Toward evening, the ebb was against us; we could no longer run into Liverpool, and were obliged to cast anchor within fifteen miles of the city. We had passed the same floating light, which I observed three years ago, in a voyage from Liverpool to Dublin, and we lay near four light-houses, two of which gave a remarkably clear and beautiful light; the light of one of these towers played gracefully on the waves. These towers were a considerable distance from each other, and are so situated, that two must be brought in a line, to find the proper course. I had observed on the coast of Wales, some white pyramids, which also serve as landmarks. We met to-day several steam-boats, bound to different ports along the Irish coast. Dr. Garret, whose business led him to Ireland, availed himself of this opportunity to proceed to Dublin, and left us while we were still under way. We beheld the departure of this lively fellow-passenger with much regret, as the loss of his good humour and wit, greatly depressed our spirits. Three custom-house officers soon came on board,who after inspecting the vessel for form sake, and partaking of a hearty collation, instantly freed us from their company. We were boarded by several boats, which offered to take passengers ashore; but as it was near dusk, and as the most of us were in no hurry, only two of our fellow-passengers accepted their proposals. This was the nineteenth day since our departure from Sandy Hook, and we could not be too thankful to Providence for his protection, and our happy and speedy voyage. As it was known in Liverpool, that we were to sail on the 16th ultimo, from New York, our friends anxiously awaited our arrival.
On the 14th of July, between two and three o’clock in the morning every body was already stirring on board of our ship; we hoisted anchor and set sail, with a favourable wind, to reach Liverpool by daybreak. This city, as is known, is situated on the right bank of the Mersey, in Lancashire; seen from the water, it presents a charming prospect. To the right you behold the coast of Chestershire, and a deep bay which stretches to the city of Chester. This coast is not handsome at first view, but becomes more agreeable after doubling a very dangerous rocky point, which runs from the left bank of the Mersey, not far from the harbour of Liverpool, and on which, during gales, vessels are often liable to be wrecked. You then discover on this coast beautiful country-seats, and in the back ground pleasant villages. Captain Croker wished to avail himself of the rising tide to run into the Prince’s dock; this required much manœuvering, and at last we took in sail. After an hour’s labour we ultimately reached the dock. The dock was so crowded with ships, that the Pacific took her place fourth from the wharf. I went ashore, and took up my lodgings at the King’s Arms Hotel, in Castle-street, an excellent hotel, in which I lodged three years ago. The landing of my baggage went on very slowly, because it had to be carried over three vessels. When landed, it was carried to the so called old dock, to a toll-house, situated in the interior of the city. This toll-house is an old, narrow, smoky building, by no means worthy so rich a trading emporium as Liverpool. Before I could have my baggage examined, I was obliged to present myself at the alien-office, to produce my passport; it was taken from me, and I received a passport ad interim, in lieu thereof. Upon the whole, I had to undergo a great many formalities. InAmerica, it was quite the contrary: there they never thought of asking me for a passport. Ultimately I received permission to have my baggage examined, which was done in the politest manner possible.
----
Stay in England, and return to Ghent.
Amongthe gentlemen who shortly after my arrival in Liverpool favoured me with a visit, was the American consul, Mr. Maury. He is a native of Virginia, about eighty years of age, and a school-mate of President Jefferson. He is the American consul who, after the treaty of Versailles, came to England with credentials signed byWashington.
The gloomy and smoky appearance of the city of Liverpool, as well as its many narrow and partly angular streets, had no pleasant effect upon me. However, I found the pavements much better than in America. I visited several splendid porcelain shops, which article is made in the vicinity and in Staffordshire. The chinaware is very fine, the painting and gilding good, and this ware also is very durable. In these stores one likewise finds Wedgewood white and blue crockery, and the so called stone-china, representing landscapes and all kinds of figures, and in solidity much resembling the porcelain of Tournay.
I afterwards visited the House of Correction, which was built seven years ago, and is a mile and a half distant from the city. This institution is the central prison of Lancastershire, and contains prisoners whose time of imprisonment does not exceed three years. Those who have to undergo a more severe punishment, are generally transported to New South Wales. I had a written permission from a magistrate to visit the establishment, through which I was accompanied by the governor; the building stands on a rising ground, enjoys a free circulation of air, and can accommodate eight hundred prisoners; at this period they amounted to six hundred and fifty.
The prisoners are divided into twenty-one classes, thirteen for the men and eight for the women, according to the extent of their crimes and ages. Those who are prisoners for the first time are dressed in gray and yellow garments; those incarcerated for the second time, in blue and red; and those requiring particular attention are dressed in complete suits of blue or gray. The treatment observed towards women and children is pretty much the same, for even the children are divided into different classes, and entirely separated from the grown persons.
For food the prisoners have daily either meat or fish. OnSunday there is service in the chapel, but for each sex separately, and every morning there are prayers. The prisoners were formerly principally employed in spinning or weaving cotton; but as for some months this article had much fallen in value, the working of the prisoners, except those engaged on the tread-mill, had in some measure ceased, and the greater portion of them were idle.
Whipping is expressly forbidden in the prison. The most severe punishment which the governor is allowed to inflict, is three days solitary confinement. Should it become necessary to exercise a greater punishment, application must be made to a committee of magistrates, who meet weekly in the prison, and the punishment is left to their option. A court-house, built of sandstone, adjoins the prison. The grand entry is ornamented with a portico of six Ionic columns: it communicates with the prison by a small back-door, through which the prisoners are conducted unperceived into court. It is two stories high, has large rooms, and is handsomely laid out. The hall for the public sessions is extremely elegant, and is the whole height of the building. The antechambers are destined for the jury, witnesses and judges, to meet in private, and for the different offices attached to the court. One of them is a dressing-room for the judges and lawyers; there are several shelves in it for their wigs and cloaks; for in the English courts the judges and lawyers must in open court be dressed in powdered wigs.
After I had inspected this interesting prison, we went to visit the institution for the blind, of which I had heard such a high character. Unfortunately, the hour for the admission of strangers had passed, and notwithstanding all our intreaties, we were denied admission by a handsome girl, who opened the door.
We next visited a small museum, which was pretty much on the plan of those in America, and like most of these establishments, was furnished with a hand-organ, on which they played at certain hours, to induce people to enter. This museum possesses rare stuffed animals, viz. a large ant-eater, and a quantity of foreign lizards and snakes; many living ones of the same kind I had seen in America; they are attached in a very natural manner to moss-covered rocks. It has likewise a collection of foreign birds and shells; garments and weapons of the savages of America, and the Southern Islands; a boa constrictor coiled round and choking a young antelope, &c. A Miss Brown, a young person, born without arms, was to be seen working with her feet in the most ingenious style. She eats not only with her feet, but likewise pours out a glass of wine, and carries it to her mouth without spilling a drop; she mends a pen, and writes very distinctly with her right foot; she threads a needle, sews, &c.
On the 16th of July, at eight o’clock in the morning, I departed from Liverpool in the stage for Birmingham, with the intention of soon proceeding to the continent. The English stages are better closed, and run easier than the American, but I prefer the latter, because their seats are more comfortable. The distance from Liverpool to Birmingham is one hundred and one miles; the turnpike is most excellent, and the road even the whole way. On one side of the turnpike, along the whole length of the road, there is a side-walk for pedestrians; it has a pebbly surface, and is enclosed on both sides with sandstone, to heighten the pavement. Wherever this side-walk is not paved, it is at least smoothed and lined with small sods; at equal distances two posts are driven into the ground, to prevent the passage of horsemen and wheelbarrows. I admired the peculiar care with which the stones destined for the repairs of the highway, are broken into the smallest pieces. With such stones it is easy to make a good road, and the Americans and other nations might well take example from the British, whenever they wish to have a good road, or to repair one. The number of villages that lay upon our route had a very handsome appearance. The dwellings of the farmers are small, but they have a very neat appearance, owing to the straw-thatched roofs, variegated with small windows, the bowers in front of the doors, and the garlands of roses and ivy, which twine gracefully along the walls; the little flower-gardens by the road side, also enhance the charms of these cottages. On the other hand, the towns have narrow streets, and a gloomy, smoky look.
Soldiers are garrisoned in the towns as far as Wolverhampton. This arrangement had been made for some months past, because several large manufactories in this neighbourhood had stopped working, and the famishing artizans had adopted forcible measures in order to procure bread. The country is very well cultivated; mostly with wheat and barley. The wheat appeared already nearly ripe; the straw was however very small, owing to the want of rain. The green and blooming hedges that ran along the fields had a delightful aspect. In comparing the beautiful and large trees of America, with those of this country, I was astonished at the contrast between the two, the latter consisting of low and miserable woodland. However, in the parks and large gardens, several of which I saw, there are many fine trees; but it is on account of these many parks of the nobility, that a great quantity of land remains uncultivated, which, in a country so populous as England, becomes a matter of the highest importance.
Between Newcastle and Stone we passed through a village called Trentham, where the Marquis of Stafford possesses a largecastle, situated in an extensive park; to the left of the road stand large square masses of stone, said to be the burial place of the Stafford family. Near the town of Stafford, which is the capital of Staffordshire, the old castle of Stafford is erected on a high hill. Two of its towers are still remaining, several rooms of which are fitted up for a sporting rendezvous. In former times it is said to have been a very important fortress, but was destroyed during the protectorate of Cromwell. Staffordshire is celebrated for its manufactures of earthenware; there are two very respectable establishments of this kind at Newcastle-under-Lyne, the most excellent of which is that of Wedgewood in Etruria, situated two miles from the aforesaid town. We passed several cotton manufactories, and a silk factory near Congleton, a town on the other side of Knutsford, containing six thousand souls.
We crossed at several times to-day two excellent canals, one belonging to the Sankey Navigation Company, and the other to the Duke of Bridgewater. We drove twice under this canal. In Stafford I observed a very decent looking court-house, and upon a hill the central prison of Staffordshire. I also remarked to-day several coal-mines; particularly at the last post between Wolverhampton and Birmingham they are very numerous. For a considerable distance no sign of cultivation was to be seen; nothing was to be seen but coal and iron-works, with steam-machines and colossal chimneys in the form of obelisks, and high flaming furnaces. This district had the appearance of a conflagrated city, several of whose houses were still burning; the sulphurous smell that pervaded the atmosphere, almost took the breath away. As we approached Birmingham, these works began to disappear; we passed through pleasant villages interspersed with charming blooming gardens, and every thing foretold that we were approaching a large and wealthy city. This impression was strengthened on our seeing the citizens returning from the country in their holy-day suits. It was about nine o’clock in the evening, when we reached Birmingham. I took up my quarters in the Royal Hotel, an excellent tavern, where I resided three years previous. In a public advertisement, stating the advantages connected with this establishment, travellers are notified that it is located in the pleasantest part of the town, whereas the finest prospect it presents, opens upon a burial ground, which also answers as a promenade for the inhabitants, and as a playground for children.
In Birmingham three years past, I spent several days; I wished, however, to see several things once more, and therefore sojourned a few days in this city. I went to Mr. Thomason’s show-room, where every thing, manufactured inBirmingham, is to beseen. Several rooms contain uncommonly tasteful plated ware, others trinkets, medals, curiosities, steel ware, guns, works in papier maché, crystals, &c. The well known Warwick castle Vase, I again saw of multifarious dimensions; firstly, of the full size in bronze, for which Mr. Thomason had expressly built a small house adjoining his own; then another of smaller dimensions, likewise of bronze, with the marks and ornaments in silver, or silver-gilt, which must make a very elegant appearance at table. I here likewise saw imitations of the greatest precious stones known, in their exact form, size and colour. This collection, in a very neat box, costs twenty-five guineas.
Mr. Thomason has connected himself with an artist, who, during his residence of many years in Russia, had acquired at Tula the secret of steel working, and was beginning to imitate it here. In his first essay he tried to inlay a silver waiter with steel; in this attempt, however, he did not succeed properly. Should it succeed, the introduction of this invention into England, would be of great importance, as this art being now confined to Russia, is there considered as a very important secret. Mr. Thomason had likewise the politeness to conduct me to an armory; here an immense quantity of various sword-blades was shown me, and also the mode of trying them; they are strained in a machine, by which they are bent to a certain degree, and then unbent; they are then examined, to see if they are not curved, then a block of steel is struck with the flat of the blade, and a wooden one cut with the edge; and if it is proof to this, it is considered sound, and stamped. At this moment, owing to the existence of profound peace, there was little work done in this manufactory, consequently I could not see the sharpening and polishing of the blades, which takes place in a particular workhouse.
In lieu thereof I saw in it the silvering of polished brass wire. This, first of all consists of a piece half an inch thick, which receives a very thin silver covering; it is heated in an oven, seized with tongs, and drawn through different holes, which are cut in pieces of steel, gradually diminishing in size, until they attain the size of a common piece of wire. By this means the wire may be drawn out to the thinness of a hair, and it is remarkable, that it still retains the silver. The tongs are pulled by a patent chain, the links of which are double folded, and for the invention of which, the owner of this establishment has obtained a patent from government. I also visited another show-room, which has only been two years fitted up; it is very splendidly arranged; it has a larger space than Mr. Thomason’s, but is not so richly and well provided.
In the evening I went to the theatre; they exhibited the disagreeable tragedy of Jane Shore, after which we had a tolerablepantomime, called the Village Festival, and it closed with an uninteresting melo-drama, the Woodman’s Hut. In the first piece Miss Lacy, from Covent-garden, personified the character of Jane Shore most capitally, and was well supported by several of the other actors; the piece, however, is abominable in itself, and I can imagine nothing more disgusting than to behold an unfortunate being, struggling on the stage in the arms of death. In this country, however, it is a favourite piece. They endeavoured to produce it on the French boards, but it would not take at all. The theatre is well fitted up: it has a pit, two rows of boxes, and a gallery, which can accommodate a great many spectators; on this occasion it was likewise greatly crowded by a noisy mob. I found in the boxes and pit fewer spectators than I expected, the decorations are well painted, and the interior lighted with gas. The provincial theatres receive generally but little encouragement, and their receipts only increase in summer, when the large London theatres of Covent-garden and Drury-lane are closed, and the celebrated actors there engaged, make a trip to the provinces.
On the 18th of July, at eight o’clock in the morning, I left Birmingham in a post-chaise and proceeded by a circuitous route to Oxford. I sent on my baggage by the direct course in the stage. I went out of my way for the purpose of visiting the ruins of Kenilworth and Warwick castles. The distance from Birmingham to Oxford by this road is seventy-one miles, the turnpike at times hilly, but invariably good. Our route lay through Knowles, a very charming country town. Kenilworth, on the contrary, is a small ill-looking place, but inclosing splendid ruins of the old castle, which have become universally notorious by the romance of Kenilworth. Excepting the ruins of Paulinzelle, those of Kenilworth are the most beautiful I ever beheld. The castle was built at three different periods. The most ancient northern part erroneously called Cæsar’s tower, was erected about the year 1120, by Geoffroy de Clinton, and was a fortress during the early inland strifes between the barons, the scene of many important events. Towards the close of the fourteenth century, it fell into the possession of John of Gaunt, who added to it the western and largest wing, called after him Lancaster buildings. At a later period Queen Elizabeth bestowed it upon her favourite, the Earl of Leicester, who, in 1571, erected the southern portion, called Leicester buildings; he also built between two towers a tilting yard for tournaments, and erected likewise, the large portico, which now is occupied as a dwelling. In this palace he entertained his queen with a splendid feast, that lasted seventeen days, and which is described in a particular book. After the earl’s death, the castle with its extensivedomains, escheated to the crown. Cromwell partitioned it among several of his officers, who drained the ditch, that circumscribed the greater portion of the castle walls, and likewise destroyed the park, and ultimately the castle, to sell the timber. Nothing but the tower, containing the portico, remains standing, because one of the officers occupied two rooms over the gateway, he turned this building into a dwelling place. This is still to be seen, and is now inhabited by Lord Clarendon’s agent, whose forefathers received a grant of this castle from Charles II.