CHAPTER V.DEPARTURE FROM MAKKARIF. — VARIOUS VILLAGES. — THE MUGRUM, ANCIENT ASTABORAS. — ROUTE TO GOSS REDJAB. — VERDANT APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND OF MEROE. — VOYAGE ON THE ASTAPUS. — NUMEROUS VILLAGES. — COTTAGES. — HIPPOPOTAMI; MANNER OF DESTROYING THEM. — VILLAGES. — ARRIVAL AT THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.March8.Weset sail, with a favourable breeze, from Makkarif, at one; and at half past one we passed the village of El Releh; and at two, Sowektab el Ekaba, on the western bank of the river; opposite to which, on the east bank, is a small village called Howed. At four we passed Wady Rowel, on the eastern side; at five, the small village of Sidin on the same side; at six, a large village called Karmim; at three quarters past six we passed Sayal, a small village on the east bank; at a quarter past seven, Dakkel, on the same side; at twenty minutes past seven, El Fodlet; and at half past seven we moored for the night at the village of Unmatur, on the western side. We have had a good wind, and certainly cannot have made less than three miles an hour. Opposite to Unmatur is the junction of the Mugrum, the ancient Astaboras, with the Nile, isolating from the Nubian and Libyan desert this part of Meroe. For some distance before reaching it, I observed that the colour of the water was very green, and had not the usual appearance of the Nile, which is comparatively clear at this season. I perceived also that the taste was different, and that it had a strong disagreeable smell. I regret that it is now dusk, so that I cannot observe more accurately the distinction of the waters of the two rivers; but I am informed, that for some space after the confluence, they remain unmixed. The width of the Mugrum, as theAstaboras is now called, from what I could learn, is, at the time of the rise, about 1000 feet. At this season, they tell me, it is almost stagnant. It swells many days earlier than the Bahr el Abiad or the Azruk; and I think the green colour that tinges the whole Nile for the first thirty or forty days after its rise, may be attributed to the influx of the waters of this river. The chief province or district on its banks is called Atbara, evidently a corruption from the ancient name of the river, which is curious, as any analogy is rarely to be found between the modern and ancient names in this country. Two hours before arriving at the junction, we passed a small shellal (cataract). The current was strong; a number of small rocks impeding the stream for about half way across. The banks are covered with beautiful groves of acacias, doums, and palm trees, and had generally a much more verdant appearance than we had before remarked; reminding me most forcibly of the observation of the pretorians sent by Nero:Herbas circa Meroen demum viridiores, silvarumque aliquid apparuisse.[12]From the best information I have been able to obtain, there are seven days’ journey from the mouth of the Mugrum to Goss Radjeb, the principal village on its banks: for the two first days, the direction of this river is nearly east. There are on this route few villages; the habitations chiefly consisting of encampments of migratory Arabs, who change their stations as often as they need fresh pasture for their camels and flocks. The chief tribe frequenting the banks of the Astaboras is that of the Bishareen; but its branches were described to me as distinguished by the following distinct names: The first day’s journey east, is called the district of the Atbara; the second, that of the Eddandoweh; the third day, towards the south, Attaka; the fourth, Giberta; the fifth, Medkirab; after which the district of Makkadi extends several days beyond Goss Radjeb. A merchant informed me, that, at this latter place,there are the remains of a temple, but without any sculpture, columns, or hieroglyphics. According to the accounts given to me by the most intelligent Arabs, this river abounds much more than the Nile in hippopotami and crocodiles, and the western bank is infested with lions.March3. Leaving Unmatur at seven, with a good wind, we began our voyage on what Strabo calls the river Astapus, but which the natives still call the Nile: passed, at a quarter past seven, the village of Hassal, west side, and El Dahmur east, at nine, Abouselam west, and Ambori east; at half past nine, Hossya east, Maholrab west; at half past ten, the island of Essaydrab; at twelve, the island of Gunnabra and the village of El Roweh west; at half past one, El Howyeh east, El Ferakah west; at three, the island of Tumfar, and the village of Alioh, to the east; at half past three, the island of Egaydag, and village of the same name, on the western bank; at half past four, the island of Nama; at three quarters past five, Gebata to the east, and Keytayab to the west. This day I have observed that some of the villages consist of circular huts with thatched conical roofs. The water has not the same colour nor the same disagreeable smell as that near the mouth of the Astaboras. We have seen many crocodiles and several hippopotami: upon our approach they disappeared under the water; but occasionally raised their enormous heads, which, at the distance we were then, appeared like those of buffaloes. We fired at them, but without any effect. The Arabs state that their only vulnerable part is their forehead. What Hasselquist says of the manner of destroying them, by placing salt peas on the bank, the eating of which may excite them to drink until they die, amused the Arabs vastly. Their only way of killing these animals, is by concealing themselves in the long grass or corn fields on the bank, near one of their tracks. When the hippopotamus approaches, they attack and pierce him with a barbed lance, to which a strong cord is attached. The animal rushes to the river, and they follow him warily on thebanks, or in a boat, until his strength is quite exhausted, and he is almost dead. His usual expiring effort is to make for the shore, or his pursuers drag him thither as an angler does a fish. The peasants sometimes keep up fires during the night, to preserve their crops from his ravages. I observed to-day several beautiful woods on the islands; and, for the first time, monkeys—the small Grey Capuchin species.Bagromeh Meroe.—March4. During the last night we have passed the following villages:—On the west bank.Islands.East bank.Eggabrab.Wady Abdelatif, or Valley of the Slave of the Beneficent.Ennuba.El Akareet.Effadnia.Eddyiga.Ednamaat.Gul el Mutmoor.Es Sagadi, or the Carpet.Es Sagadi (large island).El Camair.Betasaat.El Helala, or the Holy Place.Shutaib.El Makmiah.Makmiah (small island). Es Shilalah, or the Cataract.Gibel Immeli.Wady Youseph.Taadra.Hillet el Gerf (village of the bank of the river).Assour.Dankelah.Bagromeh.Under the cheerful influence of a tropical morning, at seven, we arrived at the site of the ancient capital of Ethiopia.CHAPTER VI.MEROE.HISTORICAL EVIDENCE THAT THIS IS THE CEMETERY OF THE CAPITAL OF ETHIOPIA. — THE IMPOSING APPEARANCE, NUMBER, POSITION, AND DIMENSIONS OF THE PYRAMIDS. — ETHIOPIAN ARCH. — PROOFS THAT THE KNOWLEDGE OF THE ARTS DESCENDED FROM ETHIOPIA. — EDIFICES OF A PYRAMIDAL FORM THE BEST ADAPTED TO RESIST THE RAVAGES OF TIME. — PECULIAR STYLE OF THE SCULPTURE. — THE LANGUAGE OF HIEROGLYPHICS GENERALLY KNOWN IN ETHIOPIA. — THE STYLE OF THE SCULPTURE THE CRITERION OF THE AGE. — MONUMENTAL, GEOLOGICAL, AND HISTORICAL EVIDENCE THAT THE KNOWLEDGE OF THE ARTS DESCENDED FROM MEROE. — DESCRIPTION OF THE SCULPTURE. — NAME OF MEROE ON THE MONUMENTS. — MEROE PECULIARLY INTERESTING, AS THE BIRTH-PLACE OF THE ARTS. — SANDSTONE QUARRIES. — SITE OF THE CITY. — VILLAGES OF THE PRESENT INHABITANTS. — AGRICULTURE. — CAILLIAUD.Agatharchidessays the Astaboras unites its stream with the Nile, and forms the Island of Meroe; and Strabo (lib. 17.) says Meroe is formed by the conflux of the Astapus and Astaboras. Diodorus states the island to be 375 miles long, and 125 wide. The exact distance from Syene to Meroe is stated by Pliny to have been a subject of great dispute even in his time; which is the more extraordinary, when we consider the number of travellers who had then visited and even penetrated beyond the capital of Ethiopia. Pliny first mentions Delion as having travelled far beyond Meroe; afterwards Aristocreon, Bion, Basilis, and Simonides the younger, who wrote an account of that city. Timosthenes was sixty days in making the voyage by water. Eratosthenes reckoned the distance 625,000 paces, and Artemidorus 600,000. Bion gives us a list of towns, but no distances: the sixty days ofTimosthenes, by water, is too indefinite a date to be of any use, although it agrees tolerably well with the account of Herodotus.[13]The 625,000 paces of Eratosthenes, equal to 590 miles, is about the length of the direct caravan road, which I find to be 560 miles to the town. Artemidorus’s distance of 600,000 paces, equal to 568 miles, agrees more closely with my ascertained distance of that route, that is, across the Great Desert, by Korosko and Abou-Hammed.Pl. 5.From a Drawing by L. Bandoni.Printed by C. Hullmandel.GENERAL PLAN OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.Pliny says that this dispute concerning the distance to Meroe was finally settled by the prætorians and tribune sent by Nero for the purpose of exploring the country, which he had some intention to make a conquest of. There is little doubt, I conceive, that these men would follow the Nile, in order to observe all the towns, and report what resources there would be for an army. This will account for their calculating the distance to the island at 874,000 paces (817 English miles). Following most of the sinuosities of the Nile, I find it about forty miles more; but, as it cannot be supposed that they did not occasionally avail themselves of some of the many shorter routes now followed by the caravans, this may be considered to correspond with sufficient exactness.Pliny computes from Napata to the Island of Meroe, 360,000 paces (340 English miles). If Gibel el Birkel be the site of ancient Napata, the distance by the longest road is only 240, a difference of 100 miles; I therefore conceive that Gibel el Birkel cannot be the site of the ancient city of Napata, which, I think, we must look for 100 miles lower down the river, perhaps at Old Dongolah. Ptolemy places it much more to the north. Pliny says, that from the commencement of the island to the town is 70,000 paces (66 English miles). I found the distance to be nearly 60 miles; a difference only of 6 miles: but these discrepancies are not surprising when we consider the vague information and dubious authorities from which he acknowledges that he compiled his account. I suggested, in crossing the Great Desert, the probabilityof its having formerly contained establishments and wells, at different stations, for the convenience of a more civilised population, and of this route having been anciently much more frequented by travellers. There is every reason then to suppose that Eratosthenes and Artemidorus took this route; which will make their calculations, as well as those of the prætorians by the Nile, accord very satisfactorily with the position of these ruins. Without bringing forward other proofs, the authority of Ptolemy is sufficient to dispel any doubt that might possibly remain upon the subject. That geographer places the capital of Ethiopia in latitude 16° 26′; a difference only of 30′ from the observation of Cailliaud. It is impossible to conceive the observation of that geographer to be exactly correct (which, indeed, is rarely the case); for, besides the absence of other ruins, we cannot imagine that there could have been another town so near the capital with such splendid cemeteries as these.Never were my feelings more ardently excited than in approaching, after so tedious a journey, to this magnificent Necropolis. The appearance of the Pyramids, in the distance, announced their importance; but I was gratified beyond my most sanguine expectations, when I found myself in the midst of them. The pyramids of Geezah are magnificent, wonderful from their stupendous magnitude; but for picturesque effect and elegance of architectural design, I infinitely prefer these of Meroe. I expected to find few such remains here, and certainly nothing so imposing, so interesting, as these sepulchres, doubtless of the kings and queens of Ethiopia. I stood for some time lost in admiration. From every point of view I saw magnificent groups, pyramid rising behind pyramid, while the dilapidated state of many did not render them less interesting, though less beautiful as works of art. I easily restored them in my imagination; and these effects of the ravages of time carried back my thoughts to more distant ages.Plate VIII.faithfully represents the principal group of the pyramids, and their present state of preservation, and the annexedview exhibits the most interesting of that group in detail. As every stone in these plates is drawn with the camera lucida, the reader will have the opportunity of studying their construction, and I may also add (particularly in the case ofPlate IX.), of appreciating their picturesque appearance.Pl. 6.From a Drawing by L. Bandoni.Printed by C. Hullmandel.PRINCIPAL GROUP OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.The porticoes on the east side of each pyramid soon attracted my attention, and I passed eagerly from one to the other, delighted to find in several of them tablets of sculpture and hieroglyphics, which, few as they are, have, I trust, given us the assurance of the locality, and will, I hope, throw some light upon the mythology and arts of the Ethiopians. There are the remains and traces of eighty of these pyramids (seePlate V.): they consist chiefly in three groups. The principal and most imposing, at which I arrived first, is situated on a hill, two miles and a half from the river, commanding an extensive view of the plain. This group is arranged (seePlate VI.) nearly in the form of a bow, the string of which from A to W is 1050 feet, and following the curvedalignementof the pyramids from A to D, 625; D to W, 850, making in total extent 1425 feet.PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.The plan will show that no regularity has been maintained in their position. Thus, the façade of portico A (seePlan) faces about north-east, while the generality of the other porticoes vary from east to south-east. The circumstance of the porticoes fronting generally towards the east, and not one to the north and south-west, proves a religious observance; but that there was no astronomical object in view, in their porticoes facing the rising sun, is certain from the variation in the directions, and from there being no attempt at mathematical precision. Although we cannot attribute to them the scientific object conceived by some to have been contemplated in the location of the pyramids of Memphis, still a happier combination of position could not be imagined for producing upon the mind those impressive feelings which the royal cemeteries of kings of an age so distant, and of a nation once so great and powerful, naturally inspire.[14]The following account of the different measurements of the pyramids will show the dissimilarity of their size. A (seePlate VI.) is 32 feet square; B, 42 feet square; C, 52 feet square; D, 31 feet from east to west, and 27 feet 6 inches from north to south; F, 60 feet square; G, joined to the latter, of the same size; H, 63 feet square; I, 42 feet 6 inches by 40 feet; K, 42 feet square; L, 26 feet 6 inches by 23 feet 6 inches; M, 26 feet 6 inches by 21 feet; N, 29 feet square; O, 63 (this is without a portico); P, only 17 feet square, without a portico; R, 61 feet square; S, 30 feet square; T, 50 feet square; U, 29 feet square, V, 37 feet north to south, 39 feet east to west; W, 20 feet square; X, 20 feet square. Seven marked Y consist of pyramids in such a ruined condition that the exact plan cannot now be ascertained; but some of them, from the size of the porticoes, which can still be traced, have evidently been of importance.Pl. 7.From a Drawing by L. Bandoni.Printed by C. Hullmandel.PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.London. Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.The pyramids (PlateNo. VII.) restored architecturally, will give the best idea of their original form and ornaments. Thepyramid No. 3. is 60 feet in diameter at the base, and 60 feet high; and is constructed, like most of the others, as shown in the plates, of stones, generally one foot high and two feet and a half long. The rim at the angles of No. III. is a great additional beauty; and many of them are thus ornamented. Most of them can be ascended; but the surfaces of some (as of Nos. 1. and 2.) are quite smooth. The appearance of a window in No. 1., thirteen feet from the summit, is curious; but it is merely an architectural ornament, and not for the purpose of admitting light into any room of the interior. There are thirty-one pyramids in the group, of which the plans of twenty-three may be traced; while to the south-east is another group of thirteen, in some degree of preservation, as will be seen by the above view. There are three other groups, two consisting of two pyramids each, and the other of six (see General Plan,Plate V.); and at 5600 feet to the west of the chief group, may be traced the remains of twenty-five pyramids, but almost buried.SOUTH-EAST GROUP OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.The porticoes I have before mentioned, situated on the eastern side of all the pyramids, consist generally of one room, which varies from 12 to 6 feet in length, and from 11 to 6 feet in width. The portico of pyramid H consists of two rooms, the one leading out of the other: the first 8 feet long and 12 feet broad; the second the same breadth, but only 6 feet in length. Three steps, each 8 inches deep and 6 inches high, lead into the portico of No. 3.Plate VII.The doorway is 3 feet 10 inches deep; the portico is 13 feet 8 inches long, and 7 feet 6 inches wide; the height of the façade is 18 feet 4 inches.The façades of these porticoes are very elegant. In their forms we can clearly trace the origin of the Egyptian propylons. That of No. 3.Plate VII.consists of a doorway 3 feet wide, and the doorposts 6 inches wide. Above the door is an architrave, over which is a square beading, and over it, as in Egyptian edifices, rises a cornice ornamented with the globe and wings. The door is 11 feet 6 inches high, and, including the architrave and cornice, 14 feet. The buttresses, on each side of the door, have a slight inclination inwards, but not so much as the Egyptian propylons. They measure at their base 7 feet 6 inches, at their summit 7 feet; others, 5 feet by 4 feet 8 inches and 5 feet by 4 feet 10 inches. These measurements include the square beading at the angles. In Egyptian architecture this beading would be round. The square form here adopted, being more simple, affords another reason for supposing that the first idea of this great ornament to the Egyptian temples originated in Ethiopia. The height of this portico is 11 feet 4 inches: that of the pylons of all the porticoes nearly the same, whatever may be the height of the pyramids; but the length and width of the porticoes seem to vary in proportion to the size of the pyramids. At the extremity of most of these porticoes, opposite the entrance, is the representation of a monolithic temple, ornamented with sculpture, all very much defaced.Pl. 8.On stone by C. Hullmandel from a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins Esqr.Printed by C. Hullmandel.PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.It is evident that, from motives of curiosity, or perhaps avarice, attempts have been made to open many of the pyramids, but without success. From the appearance of those which have been partially broken into, I do not perceive the slightest probability that any of them contain galleries. Probably they are constructed over wells in which the bodies are deposited. That they are places of sepulture cannot be doubted, from their position, number, and, most particularly, from the subjects of the sculpture on the walls, which I will presently describe. One of the porches or porticoes is most interestingly curious, the roof being arched, in a regular masonic style, with what may be called a keystone. (SeePlate VII.) This arch consists of four and five stones alternately; but, notwithstanding this irregularity, the principle is the same, the stones being held together only by lateral pressure. I trust to be able to establish, beyond dispute, that the arch has its origin in Ethiopia. The style of the sculpture in this portico, and the hieroglyphic names of kings on porticoes ornamented in a similar style, being, as I hope to prove, much more ancient than any in Egypt, where there is no specimen of a stone arch constructed in so regular a manner, we may consider such proficiency in architectural knowledge as a decided proof of the advanced state of the arts, at a very remote period, in this country.[15]A question which has long engaged the attention of literary men is, whether the Ethiopians derived their knowledge of the arts from the Egyptians, or the latter from the former. One of these hypotheses must be admitted, as the similarity of the style evidently denotes a common origin. These pyramids belong, without doubt, to the remotest age. No edifice, perhaps, is better calculated to resist the ravages of time, or the destructive efforts of man, than the pyramid; particularly when constructed, as these are, without anychambers in the interior. In a country where earthquakes are unknown, little rain falls, and the wind is seldom violent, ages must elapse before these vast masses of stone could be much dilapidated, unless buried by the desert, or carried away by man as materials for other buildings. The porticoes even of the pyramids that are standing, although adapted to their proportions, are almost all injured, and most of them destroyed. There are no symptoms of fanatical violence having been exercised on what remains. Their ruined and defaced condition must be entirely attributed to their great antiquity.[16]The sculpture is in a very peculiar style, which can scarcely be called good: the large figures, in particular, display a certain rotundity of form which I never observed in any Egyptian sculpture. The smaller figures have also this peculiarity; but, from their dimensions, it is not quite so perceptible, at least not so striking. The hieroglyphics are very much defaced; indeed, those I have copied are almost all that remain. The Ethiopians did not group their hieroglyphics so well as the Egyptians: their striking deficiency, in this respect, proves either a great corruption from the Egyptian style, or, most probably, a great improvement made by the latter on the Ethiopian invention. This is the more extraordinary, as Diodorus informs us that the knowledge of hieroglyphics was, in Egypt, confined to the priests: but that, in Ethiopia, they were understood by all.To any one who, like me, has made a long study of Egyptian monuments, the style of the sculpture, even in the absence of any known name, is generally sufficient to determine its epoch. This fact, of which those travellers who have spent any length of time in Egypt will be fully aware, may give additionalweight to my opinion of this sculpture. It is all executed in basso relievo, with the exception of the hieroglyphics, which are in intaglio. The style is certainly by no means equal to the best at Thebes. It is unlike the style of the age of Osirtesen, the Thothmes, Rameses II. (Augustan age), Rameses III. (first decline), the florid style during the reign of Psammitichus, or the clumsy inelegant productions of the Persian (I refer to the sculpture in the temple of Darius in the Oasis Magna), Ptolemaic, or Roman dynasties. There is no resemblance to any of these styles, or appearance of its being a corruption from them. The ornaments, on the fragments which still exist, are all evidently peculiar to the country. Of the few that still remain, many are not found in Egypt, and appear to represent the rites of a religion much more simple and pure than the corrupted Egyptian mythology. They bear the stamp of originality, and I should say, therefore, that the Ethiopian style is antecedent to the others; that it is the earliest, though not the best.Pl. 9.From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins Esqr.Printed by C. Hullmandel.PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.“The Ethiopians,” says Diodorus, “describe the Egyptians as one of their colonies led into Egypt by Osiris. They pretend, also, that Egypt, at the commencement of the world, was nothing but a morass; and that the inundations of the Nile, carrying down a great quantity of the alluvial soil of Ethiopia, had at length filled it up, and made it a part of the continent; and we see,” he says, “at the mouth of the Nile, a particularity which seems to prove that the formation of Egypt is the work of the river. After the inundation, we remark that the sea has repelled on the shore large masses of the alluvial soil, and that the land is increased.” Many writers on Egypt have confirmed this statement of Diodorus. The gradual increase of the depth of soil around different antiquities enabled the Frenchsavants, unassisted by the science of hieroglyphics, to decide, in many instances with tolerable accuracy, the date of their construction. The depth of the alluvial soil has ever been, and still continues, increasing; and as this progressiveincrease may, in every instance, be ascertained, there must have been a period when there was little or none; when Egypt was a mere morass, or rather a desert. The great population, power, riches, and civilisation of the Egyptians astonish us, particularly as we know that their prosperity was almost entirely derived from agriculture, and that the fertility of the land was produced altogether by the periodical overflowings of the Nile. These spread abundance and happiness over the country, created numberless beautiful islands, and changed into a smiling, luxuriant valley what was originally a morass, or, more properly speaking, an arid desert.“Et viridem Ægyptum nigrâ fœcundat arenâ.”[17]The first cause, then, of all this fruitfulness was Ethiopia. No one, I think, will conceive it probable that a country originally possessing such advantages could have been long unselected by the descendants of Noah. Herodotus also calls the Ethiopians aboriginal. Considering, then, the rapidity with which man multiplies in a hot climate where no Malthusian restraints operate, and in the full enjoyment of the ease and abundance which so rich a soil must have secured to them, I think it not unreasonable to conclude that Ethiopia, even before Egypt emerged from the Nile, was peopled by a numerous and powerful race. I cannot conceive that a country possessing such agricultural and other advantages—and probably, on that account, the resort of surrounding and less favoured nations—could long remain poor. Riches would introduce a taste for elegance, and afford encouragement to invention; hence the arts would derive their origin. The population increasing, while the land, owing to the spoliations of the river, diminished in extent and richness, the necessity of emigration became obvious. At the command of their oracle, as was their custom (see Herodotus, ii. 139.), they quitted theirhomes and proceeded along the course of the river; settling in the lower valley of the Nile: they would plant there the religion, arts, and knowledge of their country. This conclusion is confirmed by the following strong passage from Diodorus, proving historically what is my own conviction from the examination of their monumental remains. “It is from the Ethiopians,” says he, “that the Egyptians learned to honour their kings as gods, to bury their dead with so much pomp; and their sculpture and their writing (hieroglyphics) had their origin in Ethiopia.”[18]Pl. 10.Printed by C. Hullmandel.SCULPTURE IN ONE OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.The following is a description of the most important pieces of sculpture which I found on the walls of the porticoes. (Plate X.Sculpture.—Meroe.)The principal figure in this plate is a queen, plainly attired in a long robe, tight at the neck and ankles, and, what is not usual in Egyptian sculpture, closely fitted to the legs. The whole figure is singularly dissimilar to those represented in the sculptures of Egypt. It is strongly marked by corpulency, a quality still so desired by Eastern beauties; a curious circumstance, since this rotundity of form, which is the distinguishing feature of Ethiopian sculpture, and which, making its figures more bulky, and, perhaps, clumsy, than the Egyptian, is nevertheless rather pleasing to the eye, and, I think, more natural. I made this drawing with the camera lucida, in order to give the figure exactly, without any exaggeration. It will be observed that there are defects in the proportions, similar and as numerous as in Egyptian sculpture; for instance, the faulty manner of drawing the eye, the shortness of the arms, and the form not being fully made out. This queen has in one hand the lash of Osiris, and in the other a lotus flower. She is on the seat having the form of a lion, which differs very little from the one we often see on the walls of the templesof Egypt. Her sandals greatly resemble some specimens I have seen at Thebes, and are not unlike those the peasants here now wear. She is seated under a canopy, the top of which is decorated with the common Egyptian ornament of the heads and necks of serpents.Opposite to her have been placed three rows of figures, the first of which is quite destroyed; the second is injured, but sufficiently entire to render all the hieroglyphics and figures intelligible. The first represents a female pouring out libations to the queen. The vase into which the liquid is represented as falling has a shape which I have never seen in Egypt. This figure has the same rotundity of form, though, from the small scale, it is less conspicuous in my drawing. Behind this are six smaller figures or divinities. The first, from his attributes, and also the hieroglyphics, is the god Thoth, with both hands raised. The next is Horus, with two vases in his hands, from one of which he is apparently pouring water upon plants in two vases, on a stand which has nearly the form of a lotus-flower. Anubis is the next divinity, and he also has a vase in his hand. On one side of this latter figure is a vase, and on the other the lotus flower-stand. After these figures is Kneph, behind whom is a rude and ugly-shaped vase: then follow two figures very much defaced. From the hieroglyphics, one of them must be Seb, but those of the other I am not acquainted with. The only figure discernible in the third row is Anubis, pouring libations. This plate then exhibits four of the divinities generally represented in the judgment-scenes and mysteries of the dead. Thoth, Horus, Anubis, and Kneph present offerings to the queen, the occupant of the tomb.The consideration of the hieroglyphics of this and the other sculptures on the tombs of Meroe I will defer until another opportunity; only remarking, that the composition of the groups is rather inferior to that in the Egyptian edifices, and that the names in the ovals are unknown. I must also state that it appears to me thatthere is the name of Meroe in the last row of the tablet, before the queen. There is the hieroglyphic of three hills, emblematical of land; the plough and the disk, which, with the vowels generally omitted, may be read, land of Mero, or, in Coptic,Ⲙⲉ ⲢⲎ, “dilectus Sol,” not an inappropriate name. I have an imperfect drawing (given me by Sir William Gell) of a coin found by Mr. Ruppell, on one side of which is a boat and the three long lines, emblematical of the inundation. Above the boat are, apparently, the same two hieroglyphics of the plough and disk, which I conceive to be the name of the capital of Ethiopia.Pl. 11.From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins Esqr.Printed by C. Hullmandel.SCULPTURE IN THE PORTICO OF A PYRAMID AT MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.Plate XI.This exhibits a subject more interesting. There has seemingly been a figure, similar to the queen (inPlate X.), on a lion-formed seat, but it is now too much defaced to discover exactly whether it has been a king or a queen. The style of the sculpture is, however, evidently Ethiopian. The centre of this group, also, is divided into three rows. The highest contains a representation similar to part of the great procession in the portico of Medenet Abou, at Thebes. In this interesting little fragment we have a proof that the Egyptians derived even their religious ceremonies from the Ethiopians. Although this row of figures is exceedingly injured, I distinguished clearly the jackal, ibis, and hawk standards, carried by priests shaved, and with long robes, like those in the procession at Medenet Abou; thus confirming what Diodorus says, that “the priests in Ethiopia observe the same order and the same customs as the Egyptians. Those who are devoted to the worship of the gods purify themselves, shave, and dress, in the same manner.” Following these standard-bearers is a curious figure of Anubis and four priests bearing a boat, but almost defaced. I cannot agree with those who suppose that this procession alludes to the expeditions of the Ethiopians, undertaken at the command of their oracle, or that it is as Heeren calls it the oracle ship. I consider it rather a religious type, emblematical ofthe passage of the soul into immortality; the voyage to “the undiscovered land, from whose bourne no traveller returns.”In the same row of this plate we have Isis, Osiris, Horus, and Thoth. The addition of the two former is important, when we consider that they are in a real Ethiopian edifice. Osiris is represented, as at Thebes, as president of Amenti, under the figure of a mummy; his lash in his hand, and the head-dress of the globe and feathers, &c.In the third row, Isis, with the head-dress of the hieroglyphic called the throne, is caressing a hawk on a pedestal; the type of her son Horus. The third row contains a variety of elegant vases. We have here the true origin of many that were once thought Greek, and only recently acknowledged to be Egyptian. The large figure, offering with one hand a vase of incense, and with the other pouring libations, is remarkable for his short girdle, made of the skin of a lion. This is another proof of the originality of the style. The common Egyptian and Ethiopian lion-formed seat had also, very probably, its origin here, where lions abounded. If in Egypt now, so thinly inhabited (compared to what it formerly was), there are none of these animals, it cannot be supposed that they existed there when the population was so much denser. Diodorus says, that, as there was no wool in Ethiopia, the inhabitants covered their nakedness with the skins of beasts; and the Ethiopians, under Arsamenes (Herod. vii. 69.), are described as clothed with the skins of panthers and lions. Strabo also says that some of them only wear a cincture of skins, the sheep being without wool. The ornament at the bottom of this plate is unique, representing serpents standing erect, with arms and hands, in which they are each holding a feather, the symbol of truth. I have never seen this representation in Egypt, but it reminds me of some of the subjects in the tombs of the kings. The ornament at the top of this plate, representingstars, that is, the heavens, is constantly seen in Egypt, and is also, seemingly, of Ethiopian derivation.Pl. 12.From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins Esqr.Printed by C. Hullmandel.SCULPTURE IN A PYRAMID AT MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.Plate XII.(the third of Sculpture) represents the inner tablet, or the three rows of figures, in a subject upon the opposite wall, and is connected with the fragments of two figures, and adorned with decorations defaced, but apparently so precisely the same asPlate XI.that I have thought it unnecessary to repeat them. The smaller figures in this subject are also less perfect. In the first row is the fragment of a figure certainly meant for Osiris; before him may be distinguished four very small divinities, perhaps the genii of Amenti, and a lion, seated on a pedestal, the executioner of justice. In the same row is a curious group of four hogs. I have been told that a representation of these animals once existed on a tomb at Thebes; but this is the first time I have seen them sculptured on any edifice in the valley of the Nile. In the second row is a pedestal, upon which is the model of a monolithic temple. On one side of the latter is a goose, and on the other a hawk, emblematical of the divinities Seb and Horus; after which there is a representation of a tree, with a figure on each side, followed by Thoth, with his hands raised towards the figure of a mummy: the head of the latter is defaced; but its shape is important, as proving that the Ethiopians were acquainted with the art of embalming. The third row contains a pedestal, or altar, on which three figures are seated. One with the globe and horns is Isis; the third, Horus; the other, is defaced: behind these is a large twisted serpent. In the second row of this tablet, and also inPlate XI.,is an altar or pedestal, on which are cakes of bread, and in the midst of them the flowers of the lotus; indicating, I conceive, that they are the bread of that plant. The figure with a ceinture of lion’s skin, in both these subjects, is pouring libations on the flowers, symbolical, perhaps, of the reign of the king, who, like the inundation of the river, had spread abundance and prosperity over the land. There were some other fragments on theporticoes, and in one I observed a balance, and Thoth and Horus weighing the actions of the deceased before the judge, Osiris; a common subject on the papyrus, and which is also seen on the walls of the Temple of Athor at Thebes, &c.At the extremity of each portico, as before observed, is the representation of a monolithic temple, above which are the traces of a funeral boat filled with figures, but all too defaced to be distinctly made out. In the centre of each boat is the sphere in the usual concave socket; and I was able, with much difficulty, to distinguish the divinities Kneph and Anubis. On each side of the boat is a pedestal on which is the bird with a human face representing the soul: one has a sphere on its head. Diodorus mentions that some of the Ethiopians preserved the bodies of their relations in glass (probably alabaster) cases, in order to have them always before their eyes. These porticoes may have been used to contain such cases.I have carefully described this interesting and magnificent cemetery; but how shall I attempt to express the feelings of the traveller on treading such hallowed ground? One who, in passionate admiration for the arts, had visited the chief galleries of Europe, gazed upon the breathing image of divinity in the Apollo of the Vatican, or the deep expression of the most poetical of statues, the Dying Gladiator of the Capitol; who had beheld and felt the pictorial creations of a Raphael and a Correggio, and, with delight, contemplated Grecian, Roman, and modern sculpture, could not be unmoved at finding himself on the site of the very metropolis where those arts had their origin. The traveller who has seen the architectural antiquities of Rome, and has admired the magnificent use that nation has made of the arch, making it the chief ornament of their baths, palaces, and temples, would be further deeply interested at finding here the origin of that discovery. These emotions would be felt with peculiar force by one who, like myself, had been fortunate enough to trace art through herearliest creations,—from the splendid Gothic edifices of the north to the ruins of the Eternal City—from Rome to Magna Græcia—from the magnificent Temple of Neptune at Pæstum to the still purer antiquities of Sicily, particularly at Girgenti, where nature and art seem to have vied with each other—from that interesting island to the Morea and the city of Minerva, where the knowledge of the arts, sown in the most genial soil, produced the perfection of elegance, chasteness, and magnificence. But the seeds of the knowledge of the Greeks were derived from Egypt; and the Egyptians received their civilisation from the Ethiopians, and from Meroe, where I now am writing. The beautiful sepulchres of that city afford satisfactory evidence of the correctness of the historical records. Where a taste for the arts had reached to such perfection, we may rest assured that other intellectual pursuits were not neglected, nor the sciences entirely unknown. Now, however, her schools are closed for ever, without a vestige of them remaining. Of the houses of her philosophers, not a stone rests upon another; and where civilisation and learning once reigned, ignorance and barbarism have reassumed the sway.These pyramids are of sandstone, the quarries of which are in the range of hills to the east. The stone is rather softer than the Egyptian, which, added to the great antiquity, may account for the very dilapidated state of most of these ruins; and also for the sculpture and hieroglyphics being so defaced. Time, and the burning rays of a tropical sun, have given them a brownish red tint, in some parts nearly black. As the operation of many ages is required to make this change on a light-coloured sandstone, a further proof is afforded of the great antiquity of the monuments. The stones being small, and easily removed, it is fortunate that the chief group of pyramids is so far distant from the Nile; otherwise, like those on the plain, near the river, a great proportion of them might have been carried away as materials for the erection of more modern edifices.This, then, is the Necropolis, or City of the Dead. But wherewas Meroe, its temples and palaces? A large space, about 2000 feet in length, and the same distance from the river, strewed with burnt brick and with some fragments of walls, and stones similar to those used in the erection of the pyramids, formed, doubtless, part of that celebrated site. The idea that this is the exact situation of the city is strengthened by the remark of Strabo, that the walls of the habitations were built of bricks: Εν δε ταις πολεσιν αἱ οικησεις εκ φοινικινων σχιζων διαπλεκομεναι και τοιχων εκ πλινθων. These indicate, without doubt, the site of that cradle of the arts which distinguish a civilised from a barbarous society. Of the birthplace of the arts and sciences, the wild natives of the adjacent villages have made a miserable burying-place: of the city of the learned—its “cloud-clapt towers,” its “gorgeous palaces,” its “solemn temples,” there is “left not a rack behind.” The sepulchres alone of her departed kings have fulfilled their destination of surviving the habitations which their philosophy taught them to consider but as inns, and are now fast mouldering into dust. As at Memphis, scarcely a trace of a palace or a temple is to be seen. In this once populous plain I saw the timid gazelles fearlessly pasturing. The hyenas and wolves abound in the neighbouring hills. This morning Signor B. met a man with the head of one which he was carrying in triumph to his village: he said that he had been attacked at once by three small ones when alone, and with no weapon but his lance. The small villages of Bagromeh[19], south of the ruins, consist of circular cottages with thatched conical roofs. The peasants have numerous flocks, which they send to pasture on the plain. On the banks of the river I observed cotton, dourah, and barley. Such is the present state of Meroe. It is an ample requital for my toilsome journey, to have been the first to bring to England accurate architectural drawings, &c. of all the remains of the ancient capital of Ethiopia, that city which will ever live in the grateful recollection of those who love the arts.March 6.My rais informed me, this morning, that he could wait no longer; that his orders from the Mahmoor were only to show us the ruins; that he knew the governor wanted the boat; and that he would not stay another night on any consideration. I should have wished to have remained a few days more at this interesting place, particularly with the view of making some excavations, but I must confess I had no great hopes of the latter being of much avail. Since the enterprising French traveller, M. Cailliaud was here, the desert must have made great encroachments on the ruins in the plain, as I saw nothing of the traces and almost plan, of a temple which he has marked in his General Plate, No. XXXI.It will be alleged that there are a great many discrepancies between my architectural and picturesque views and those of M. Cailliaud. I have only to remark that the former are by M. Bandoni, a most skilful Italian architect and painter of acknowledged reputation, whose sufficient recommendation to me was the patronage of that most distinguished of British antiquarians, Sir William Gell. The picturesque views are drawn by myself, with the utmost care and attention, and with the camera lucida; so that I can vouch for the correct position of every stone. M. Cailliaud has given several pieces of sculpture from the propylons. I observed that the façades of two of the porticoes were ornamented with sculpture, representing a king sacrificing prisoners—a subject so often seen in Egypt: they were very much injured; but had they struck me as being so extraordinary as he has represented them, I should certainly have drawn them separately. The figure which appears in my camera view (Plate IX.) has none of those peculiarities. The variations in the directions of the pyramids are most accurately marked; for I was very particular in my directions to Mr. B. on that subject. M. Cailliaud has left me the opportunity of being the first to present to the public several interesting pieces of sculpture, and numerous tablets which decorate the interior of the porticoes.CHAPTER VII.DEPARTURE FROM THE RUINS. — NUMEROUS VILLAGES, ONE CALLED MEROUEER. — SHENDY. — FORTIFIED HOUSE OF THE MELEK. — INSIGNIFICANCE OF THE PRESENT CAPITALS OF ETHIOPIA. — POPULATION OF SHENDY. — BAZAAR. — PRICES OF CAMELS, SLAVES, ETC. — MANNER OF TRANSACTING BUSINESS. — WOMEN OF SHENDY. — SLAVE SYSTEM. — POWER OF THE ANCIENT MELEKS. — THEIR WIVES. — ARMY OF THE PASHA. — DEATH OF ISMAEL PASHA. — METAMMAH. — THE KATSHEF OF THAT PLACE AND HIS COURT. — KATSHEF OF SHENDY.Atfive P.M., I left, with great regret, the site of Meroe, and stopped for the night at half past seven. The navigation of the river, in the dark, at this season of the year, is dangerous, on account of the number of rocks. We have passed, this evening, the village of Abukatab, to the west, and on the east a large village called Kabushish, and an island of the same name. We passed Garburiah, a large village to the west, and we are now near El Gililife, a smaller one on the same side. Yesterday, and this morning, I was greatly alarmed for the health of my Dragoman. He has had a most violent dysentery, which I have at last cured with opium and calomel; the former sufficiently strong to keep him asleep. This attack might have been fatal to him had he not possessed a very strong constitution.March7. We set sail this morning, at six, with a favourable wind, and passed, at nine, a large village called Meroueer, on the west side. The resemblance to the ancient name is obvious, but there are no remains. At ten we passed the village of Sofra, to the west; at half past ten, the village of Gaher, same side, and the small island of Addadiker. Shortly afterwards, we passed the village of Unukatab, and arrived at Shendy at twelve.
DEPARTURE FROM MAKKARIF. — VARIOUS VILLAGES. — THE MUGRUM, ANCIENT ASTABORAS. — ROUTE TO GOSS REDJAB. — VERDANT APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND OF MEROE. — VOYAGE ON THE ASTAPUS. — NUMEROUS VILLAGES. — COTTAGES. — HIPPOPOTAMI; MANNER OF DESTROYING THEM. — VILLAGES. — ARRIVAL AT THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.
March8.Weset sail, with a favourable breeze, from Makkarif, at one; and at half past one we passed the village of El Releh; and at two, Sowektab el Ekaba, on the western bank of the river; opposite to which, on the east bank, is a small village called Howed. At four we passed Wady Rowel, on the eastern side; at five, the small village of Sidin on the same side; at six, a large village called Karmim; at three quarters past six we passed Sayal, a small village on the east bank; at a quarter past seven, Dakkel, on the same side; at twenty minutes past seven, El Fodlet; and at half past seven we moored for the night at the village of Unmatur, on the western side. We have had a good wind, and certainly cannot have made less than three miles an hour. Opposite to Unmatur is the junction of the Mugrum, the ancient Astaboras, with the Nile, isolating from the Nubian and Libyan desert this part of Meroe. For some distance before reaching it, I observed that the colour of the water was very green, and had not the usual appearance of the Nile, which is comparatively clear at this season. I perceived also that the taste was different, and that it had a strong disagreeable smell. I regret that it is now dusk, so that I cannot observe more accurately the distinction of the waters of the two rivers; but I am informed, that for some space after the confluence, they remain unmixed. The width of the Mugrum, as theAstaboras is now called, from what I could learn, is, at the time of the rise, about 1000 feet. At this season, they tell me, it is almost stagnant. It swells many days earlier than the Bahr el Abiad or the Azruk; and I think the green colour that tinges the whole Nile for the first thirty or forty days after its rise, may be attributed to the influx of the waters of this river. The chief province or district on its banks is called Atbara, evidently a corruption from the ancient name of the river, which is curious, as any analogy is rarely to be found between the modern and ancient names in this country. Two hours before arriving at the junction, we passed a small shellal (cataract). The current was strong; a number of small rocks impeding the stream for about half way across. The banks are covered with beautiful groves of acacias, doums, and palm trees, and had generally a much more verdant appearance than we had before remarked; reminding me most forcibly of the observation of the pretorians sent by Nero:
Herbas circa Meroen demum viridiores, silvarumque aliquid apparuisse.[12]
Herbas circa Meroen demum viridiores, silvarumque aliquid apparuisse.[12]
Herbas circa Meroen demum viridiores, silvarumque aliquid apparuisse.[12]
Herbas circa Meroen demum viridiores, silvarumque aliquid apparuisse.[12]
From the best information I have been able to obtain, there are seven days’ journey from the mouth of the Mugrum to Goss Radjeb, the principal village on its banks: for the two first days, the direction of this river is nearly east. There are on this route few villages; the habitations chiefly consisting of encampments of migratory Arabs, who change their stations as often as they need fresh pasture for their camels and flocks. The chief tribe frequenting the banks of the Astaboras is that of the Bishareen; but its branches were described to me as distinguished by the following distinct names: The first day’s journey east, is called the district of the Atbara; the second, that of the Eddandoweh; the third day, towards the south, Attaka; the fourth, Giberta; the fifth, Medkirab; after which the district of Makkadi extends several days beyond Goss Radjeb. A merchant informed me, that, at this latter place,there are the remains of a temple, but without any sculpture, columns, or hieroglyphics. According to the accounts given to me by the most intelligent Arabs, this river abounds much more than the Nile in hippopotami and crocodiles, and the western bank is infested with lions.
March3. Leaving Unmatur at seven, with a good wind, we began our voyage on what Strabo calls the river Astapus, but which the natives still call the Nile: passed, at a quarter past seven, the village of Hassal, west side, and El Dahmur east, at nine, Abouselam west, and Ambori east; at half past nine, Hossya east, Maholrab west; at half past ten, the island of Essaydrab; at twelve, the island of Gunnabra and the village of El Roweh west; at half past one, El Howyeh east, El Ferakah west; at three, the island of Tumfar, and the village of Alioh, to the east; at half past three, the island of Egaydag, and village of the same name, on the western bank; at half past four, the island of Nama; at three quarters past five, Gebata to the east, and Keytayab to the west. This day I have observed that some of the villages consist of circular huts with thatched conical roofs. The water has not the same colour nor the same disagreeable smell as that near the mouth of the Astaboras. We have seen many crocodiles and several hippopotami: upon our approach they disappeared under the water; but occasionally raised their enormous heads, which, at the distance we were then, appeared like those of buffaloes. We fired at them, but without any effect. The Arabs state that their only vulnerable part is their forehead. What Hasselquist says of the manner of destroying them, by placing salt peas on the bank, the eating of which may excite them to drink until they die, amused the Arabs vastly. Their only way of killing these animals, is by concealing themselves in the long grass or corn fields on the bank, near one of their tracks. When the hippopotamus approaches, they attack and pierce him with a barbed lance, to which a strong cord is attached. The animal rushes to the river, and they follow him warily on thebanks, or in a boat, until his strength is quite exhausted, and he is almost dead. His usual expiring effort is to make for the shore, or his pursuers drag him thither as an angler does a fish. The peasants sometimes keep up fires during the night, to preserve their crops from his ravages. I observed to-day several beautiful woods on the islands; and, for the first time, monkeys—the small Grey Capuchin species.
Bagromeh Meroe.—March4. During the last night we have passed the following villages:—
Under the cheerful influence of a tropical morning, at seven, we arrived at the site of the ancient capital of Ethiopia.
MEROE.
HISTORICAL EVIDENCE THAT THIS IS THE CEMETERY OF THE CAPITAL OF ETHIOPIA. — THE IMPOSING APPEARANCE, NUMBER, POSITION, AND DIMENSIONS OF THE PYRAMIDS. — ETHIOPIAN ARCH. — PROOFS THAT THE KNOWLEDGE OF THE ARTS DESCENDED FROM ETHIOPIA. — EDIFICES OF A PYRAMIDAL FORM THE BEST ADAPTED TO RESIST THE RAVAGES OF TIME. — PECULIAR STYLE OF THE SCULPTURE. — THE LANGUAGE OF HIEROGLYPHICS GENERALLY KNOWN IN ETHIOPIA. — THE STYLE OF THE SCULPTURE THE CRITERION OF THE AGE. — MONUMENTAL, GEOLOGICAL, AND HISTORICAL EVIDENCE THAT THE KNOWLEDGE OF THE ARTS DESCENDED FROM MEROE. — DESCRIPTION OF THE SCULPTURE. — NAME OF MEROE ON THE MONUMENTS. — MEROE PECULIARLY INTERESTING, AS THE BIRTH-PLACE OF THE ARTS. — SANDSTONE QUARRIES. — SITE OF THE CITY. — VILLAGES OF THE PRESENT INHABITANTS. — AGRICULTURE. — CAILLIAUD.
Agatharchidessays the Astaboras unites its stream with the Nile, and forms the Island of Meroe; and Strabo (lib. 17.) says Meroe is formed by the conflux of the Astapus and Astaboras. Diodorus states the island to be 375 miles long, and 125 wide. The exact distance from Syene to Meroe is stated by Pliny to have been a subject of great dispute even in his time; which is the more extraordinary, when we consider the number of travellers who had then visited and even penetrated beyond the capital of Ethiopia. Pliny first mentions Delion as having travelled far beyond Meroe; afterwards Aristocreon, Bion, Basilis, and Simonides the younger, who wrote an account of that city. Timosthenes was sixty days in making the voyage by water. Eratosthenes reckoned the distance 625,000 paces, and Artemidorus 600,000. Bion gives us a list of towns, but no distances: the sixty days ofTimosthenes, by water, is too indefinite a date to be of any use, although it agrees tolerably well with the account of Herodotus.[13]The 625,000 paces of Eratosthenes, equal to 590 miles, is about the length of the direct caravan road, which I find to be 560 miles to the town. Artemidorus’s distance of 600,000 paces, equal to 568 miles, agrees more closely with my ascertained distance of that route, that is, across the Great Desert, by Korosko and Abou-Hammed.
Pl. 5.From a Drawing by L. Bandoni.Printed by C. Hullmandel.GENERAL PLAN OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 5.From a Drawing by L. Bandoni.Printed by C. Hullmandel.GENERAL PLAN OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 5.
GENERAL PLAN OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.
Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pliny says that this dispute concerning the distance to Meroe was finally settled by the prætorians and tribune sent by Nero for the purpose of exploring the country, which he had some intention to make a conquest of. There is little doubt, I conceive, that these men would follow the Nile, in order to observe all the towns, and report what resources there would be for an army. This will account for their calculating the distance to the island at 874,000 paces (817 English miles). Following most of the sinuosities of the Nile, I find it about forty miles more; but, as it cannot be supposed that they did not occasionally avail themselves of some of the many shorter routes now followed by the caravans, this may be considered to correspond with sufficient exactness.
Pliny computes from Napata to the Island of Meroe, 360,000 paces (340 English miles). If Gibel el Birkel be the site of ancient Napata, the distance by the longest road is only 240, a difference of 100 miles; I therefore conceive that Gibel el Birkel cannot be the site of the ancient city of Napata, which, I think, we must look for 100 miles lower down the river, perhaps at Old Dongolah. Ptolemy places it much more to the north. Pliny says, that from the commencement of the island to the town is 70,000 paces (66 English miles). I found the distance to be nearly 60 miles; a difference only of 6 miles: but these discrepancies are not surprising when we consider the vague information and dubious authorities from which he acknowledges that he compiled his account. I suggested, in crossing the Great Desert, the probabilityof its having formerly contained establishments and wells, at different stations, for the convenience of a more civilised population, and of this route having been anciently much more frequented by travellers. There is every reason then to suppose that Eratosthenes and Artemidorus took this route; which will make their calculations, as well as those of the prætorians by the Nile, accord very satisfactorily with the position of these ruins. Without bringing forward other proofs, the authority of Ptolemy is sufficient to dispel any doubt that might possibly remain upon the subject. That geographer places the capital of Ethiopia in latitude 16° 26′; a difference only of 30′ from the observation of Cailliaud. It is impossible to conceive the observation of that geographer to be exactly correct (which, indeed, is rarely the case); for, besides the absence of other ruins, we cannot imagine that there could have been another town so near the capital with such splendid cemeteries as these.
Never were my feelings more ardently excited than in approaching, after so tedious a journey, to this magnificent Necropolis. The appearance of the Pyramids, in the distance, announced their importance; but I was gratified beyond my most sanguine expectations, when I found myself in the midst of them. The pyramids of Geezah are magnificent, wonderful from their stupendous magnitude; but for picturesque effect and elegance of architectural design, I infinitely prefer these of Meroe. I expected to find few such remains here, and certainly nothing so imposing, so interesting, as these sepulchres, doubtless of the kings and queens of Ethiopia. I stood for some time lost in admiration. From every point of view I saw magnificent groups, pyramid rising behind pyramid, while the dilapidated state of many did not render them less interesting, though less beautiful as works of art. I easily restored them in my imagination; and these effects of the ravages of time carried back my thoughts to more distant ages.
Plate VIII.faithfully represents the principal group of the pyramids, and their present state of preservation, and the annexedview exhibits the most interesting of that group in detail. As every stone in these plates is drawn with the camera lucida, the reader will have the opportunity of studying their construction, and I may also add (particularly in the case ofPlate IX.), of appreciating their picturesque appearance.
Pl. 6.From a Drawing by L. Bandoni.Printed by C. Hullmandel.PRINCIPAL GROUP OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 6.From a Drawing by L. Bandoni.Printed by C. Hullmandel.PRINCIPAL GROUP OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 6.
PRINCIPAL GROUP OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.
Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
The porticoes on the east side of each pyramid soon attracted my attention, and I passed eagerly from one to the other, delighted to find in several of them tablets of sculpture and hieroglyphics, which, few as they are, have, I trust, given us the assurance of the locality, and will, I hope, throw some light upon the mythology and arts of the Ethiopians. There are the remains and traces of eighty of these pyramids (seePlate V.): they consist chiefly in three groups. The principal and most imposing, at which I arrived first, is situated on a hill, two miles and a half from the river, commanding an extensive view of the plain. This group is arranged (seePlate VI.) nearly in the form of a bow, the string of which from A to W is 1050 feet, and following the curvedalignementof the pyramids from A to D, 625; D to W, 850, making in total extent 1425 feet.
PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.
PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.
PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.
The plan will show that no regularity has been maintained in their position. Thus, the façade of portico A (seePlan) faces about north-east, while the generality of the other porticoes vary from east to south-east. The circumstance of the porticoes fronting generally towards the east, and not one to the north and south-west, proves a religious observance; but that there was no astronomical object in view, in their porticoes facing the rising sun, is certain from the variation in the directions, and from there being no attempt at mathematical precision. Although we cannot attribute to them the scientific object conceived by some to have been contemplated in the location of the pyramids of Memphis, still a happier combination of position could not be imagined for producing upon the mind those impressive feelings which the royal cemeteries of kings of an age so distant, and of a nation once so great and powerful, naturally inspire.[14]
The following account of the different measurements of the pyramids will show the dissimilarity of their size. A (seePlate VI.) is 32 feet square; B, 42 feet square; C, 52 feet square; D, 31 feet from east to west, and 27 feet 6 inches from north to south; F, 60 feet square; G, joined to the latter, of the same size; H, 63 feet square; I, 42 feet 6 inches by 40 feet; K, 42 feet square; L, 26 feet 6 inches by 23 feet 6 inches; M, 26 feet 6 inches by 21 feet; N, 29 feet square; O, 63 (this is without a portico); P, only 17 feet square, without a portico; R, 61 feet square; S, 30 feet square; T, 50 feet square; U, 29 feet square, V, 37 feet north to south, 39 feet east to west; W, 20 feet square; X, 20 feet square. Seven marked Y consist of pyramids in such a ruined condition that the exact plan cannot now be ascertained; but some of them, from the size of the porticoes, which can still be traced, have evidently been of importance.
Pl. 7.From a Drawing by L. Bandoni.Printed by C. Hullmandel.PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.London. Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 7.From a Drawing by L. Bandoni.Printed by C. Hullmandel.PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.London. Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 7.
PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.
London. Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
The pyramids (PlateNo. VII.) restored architecturally, will give the best idea of their original form and ornaments. Thepyramid No. 3. is 60 feet in diameter at the base, and 60 feet high; and is constructed, like most of the others, as shown in the plates, of stones, generally one foot high and two feet and a half long. The rim at the angles of No. III. is a great additional beauty; and many of them are thus ornamented. Most of them can be ascended; but the surfaces of some (as of Nos. 1. and 2.) are quite smooth. The appearance of a window in No. 1., thirteen feet from the summit, is curious; but it is merely an architectural ornament, and not for the purpose of admitting light into any room of the interior. There are thirty-one pyramids in the group, of which the plans of twenty-three may be traced; while to the south-east is another group of thirteen, in some degree of preservation, as will be seen by the above view. There are three other groups, two consisting of two pyramids each, and the other of six (see General Plan,Plate V.); and at 5600 feet to the west of the chief group, may be traced the remains of twenty-five pyramids, but almost buried.
SOUTH-EAST GROUP OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.
SOUTH-EAST GROUP OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.
SOUTH-EAST GROUP OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.
The porticoes I have before mentioned, situated on the eastern side of all the pyramids, consist generally of one room, which varies from 12 to 6 feet in length, and from 11 to 6 feet in width. The portico of pyramid H consists of two rooms, the one leading out of the other: the first 8 feet long and 12 feet broad; the second the same breadth, but only 6 feet in length. Three steps, each 8 inches deep and 6 inches high, lead into the portico of No. 3.Plate VII.The doorway is 3 feet 10 inches deep; the portico is 13 feet 8 inches long, and 7 feet 6 inches wide; the height of the façade is 18 feet 4 inches.
The façades of these porticoes are very elegant. In their forms we can clearly trace the origin of the Egyptian propylons. That of No. 3.Plate VII.consists of a doorway 3 feet wide, and the doorposts 6 inches wide. Above the door is an architrave, over which is a square beading, and over it, as in Egyptian edifices, rises a cornice ornamented with the globe and wings. The door is 11 feet 6 inches high, and, including the architrave and cornice, 14 feet. The buttresses, on each side of the door, have a slight inclination inwards, but not so much as the Egyptian propylons. They measure at their base 7 feet 6 inches, at their summit 7 feet; others, 5 feet by 4 feet 8 inches and 5 feet by 4 feet 10 inches. These measurements include the square beading at the angles. In Egyptian architecture this beading would be round. The square form here adopted, being more simple, affords another reason for supposing that the first idea of this great ornament to the Egyptian temples originated in Ethiopia. The height of this portico is 11 feet 4 inches: that of the pylons of all the porticoes nearly the same, whatever may be the height of the pyramids; but the length and width of the porticoes seem to vary in proportion to the size of the pyramids. At the extremity of most of these porticoes, opposite the entrance, is the representation of a monolithic temple, ornamented with sculpture, all very much defaced.
Pl. 8.On stone by C. Hullmandel from a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins Esqr.Printed by C. Hullmandel.PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 8.On stone by C. Hullmandel from a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins Esqr.Printed by C. Hullmandel.PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 8.
PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.
Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
It is evident that, from motives of curiosity, or perhaps avarice, attempts have been made to open many of the pyramids, but without success. From the appearance of those which have been partially broken into, I do not perceive the slightest probability that any of them contain galleries. Probably they are constructed over wells in which the bodies are deposited. That they are places of sepulture cannot be doubted, from their position, number, and, most particularly, from the subjects of the sculpture on the walls, which I will presently describe. One of the porches or porticoes is most interestingly curious, the roof being arched, in a regular masonic style, with what may be called a keystone. (SeePlate VII.) This arch consists of four and five stones alternately; but, notwithstanding this irregularity, the principle is the same, the stones being held together only by lateral pressure. I trust to be able to establish, beyond dispute, that the arch has its origin in Ethiopia. The style of the sculpture in this portico, and the hieroglyphic names of kings on porticoes ornamented in a similar style, being, as I hope to prove, much more ancient than any in Egypt, where there is no specimen of a stone arch constructed in so regular a manner, we may consider such proficiency in architectural knowledge as a decided proof of the advanced state of the arts, at a very remote period, in this country.[15]
A question which has long engaged the attention of literary men is, whether the Ethiopians derived their knowledge of the arts from the Egyptians, or the latter from the former. One of these hypotheses must be admitted, as the similarity of the style evidently denotes a common origin. These pyramids belong, without doubt, to the remotest age. No edifice, perhaps, is better calculated to resist the ravages of time, or the destructive efforts of man, than the pyramid; particularly when constructed, as these are, without anychambers in the interior. In a country where earthquakes are unknown, little rain falls, and the wind is seldom violent, ages must elapse before these vast masses of stone could be much dilapidated, unless buried by the desert, or carried away by man as materials for other buildings. The porticoes even of the pyramids that are standing, although adapted to their proportions, are almost all injured, and most of them destroyed. There are no symptoms of fanatical violence having been exercised on what remains. Their ruined and defaced condition must be entirely attributed to their great antiquity.[16]
The sculpture is in a very peculiar style, which can scarcely be called good: the large figures, in particular, display a certain rotundity of form which I never observed in any Egyptian sculpture. The smaller figures have also this peculiarity; but, from their dimensions, it is not quite so perceptible, at least not so striking. The hieroglyphics are very much defaced; indeed, those I have copied are almost all that remain. The Ethiopians did not group their hieroglyphics so well as the Egyptians: their striking deficiency, in this respect, proves either a great corruption from the Egyptian style, or, most probably, a great improvement made by the latter on the Ethiopian invention. This is the more extraordinary, as Diodorus informs us that the knowledge of hieroglyphics was, in Egypt, confined to the priests: but that, in Ethiopia, they were understood by all.
To any one who, like me, has made a long study of Egyptian monuments, the style of the sculpture, even in the absence of any known name, is generally sufficient to determine its epoch. This fact, of which those travellers who have spent any length of time in Egypt will be fully aware, may give additionalweight to my opinion of this sculpture. It is all executed in basso relievo, with the exception of the hieroglyphics, which are in intaglio. The style is certainly by no means equal to the best at Thebes. It is unlike the style of the age of Osirtesen, the Thothmes, Rameses II. (Augustan age), Rameses III. (first decline), the florid style during the reign of Psammitichus, or the clumsy inelegant productions of the Persian (I refer to the sculpture in the temple of Darius in the Oasis Magna), Ptolemaic, or Roman dynasties. There is no resemblance to any of these styles, or appearance of its being a corruption from them. The ornaments, on the fragments which still exist, are all evidently peculiar to the country. Of the few that still remain, many are not found in Egypt, and appear to represent the rites of a religion much more simple and pure than the corrupted Egyptian mythology. They bear the stamp of originality, and I should say, therefore, that the Ethiopian style is antecedent to the others; that it is the earliest, though not the best.
Pl. 9.From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins Esqr.Printed by C. Hullmandel.PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 9.From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins Esqr.Printed by C. Hullmandel.PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 9.
PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.
Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
“The Ethiopians,” says Diodorus, “describe the Egyptians as one of their colonies led into Egypt by Osiris. They pretend, also, that Egypt, at the commencement of the world, was nothing but a morass; and that the inundations of the Nile, carrying down a great quantity of the alluvial soil of Ethiopia, had at length filled it up, and made it a part of the continent; and we see,” he says, “at the mouth of the Nile, a particularity which seems to prove that the formation of Egypt is the work of the river. After the inundation, we remark that the sea has repelled on the shore large masses of the alluvial soil, and that the land is increased.” Many writers on Egypt have confirmed this statement of Diodorus. The gradual increase of the depth of soil around different antiquities enabled the Frenchsavants, unassisted by the science of hieroglyphics, to decide, in many instances with tolerable accuracy, the date of their construction. The depth of the alluvial soil has ever been, and still continues, increasing; and as this progressiveincrease may, in every instance, be ascertained, there must have been a period when there was little or none; when Egypt was a mere morass, or rather a desert. The great population, power, riches, and civilisation of the Egyptians astonish us, particularly as we know that their prosperity was almost entirely derived from agriculture, and that the fertility of the land was produced altogether by the periodical overflowings of the Nile. These spread abundance and happiness over the country, created numberless beautiful islands, and changed into a smiling, luxuriant valley what was originally a morass, or, more properly speaking, an arid desert.
“Et viridem Ægyptum nigrâ fœcundat arenâ.”[17]
“Et viridem Ægyptum nigrâ fœcundat arenâ.”[17]
“Et viridem Ægyptum nigrâ fœcundat arenâ.”[17]
“Et viridem Ægyptum nigrâ fœcundat arenâ.”[17]
The first cause, then, of all this fruitfulness was Ethiopia. No one, I think, will conceive it probable that a country originally possessing such advantages could have been long unselected by the descendants of Noah. Herodotus also calls the Ethiopians aboriginal. Considering, then, the rapidity with which man multiplies in a hot climate where no Malthusian restraints operate, and in the full enjoyment of the ease and abundance which so rich a soil must have secured to them, I think it not unreasonable to conclude that Ethiopia, even before Egypt emerged from the Nile, was peopled by a numerous and powerful race. I cannot conceive that a country possessing such agricultural and other advantages—and probably, on that account, the resort of surrounding and less favoured nations—could long remain poor. Riches would introduce a taste for elegance, and afford encouragement to invention; hence the arts would derive their origin. The population increasing, while the land, owing to the spoliations of the river, diminished in extent and richness, the necessity of emigration became obvious. At the command of their oracle, as was their custom (see Herodotus, ii. 139.), they quitted theirhomes and proceeded along the course of the river; settling in the lower valley of the Nile: they would plant there the religion, arts, and knowledge of their country. This conclusion is confirmed by the following strong passage from Diodorus, proving historically what is my own conviction from the examination of their monumental remains. “It is from the Ethiopians,” says he, “that the Egyptians learned to honour their kings as gods, to bury their dead with so much pomp; and their sculpture and their writing (hieroglyphics) had their origin in Ethiopia.”[18]
Pl. 10.Printed by C. Hullmandel.SCULPTURE IN ONE OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 10.Printed by C. Hullmandel.SCULPTURE IN ONE OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 10.
Printed by C. Hullmandel.
SCULPTURE IN ONE OF THE PYRAMIDS OF MEROE.
Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
The following is a description of the most important pieces of sculpture which I found on the walls of the porticoes. (Plate X.Sculpture.—Meroe.)
The principal figure in this plate is a queen, plainly attired in a long robe, tight at the neck and ankles, and, what is not usual in Egyptian sculpture, closely fitted to the legs. The whole figure is singularly dissimilar to those represented in the sculptures of Egypt. It is strongly marked by corpulency, a quality still so desired by Eastern beauties; a curious circumstance, since this rotundity of form, which is the distinguishing feature of Ethiopian sculpture, and which, making its figures more bulky, and, perhaps, clumsy, than the Egyptian, is nevertheless rather pleasing to the eye, and, I think, more natural. I made this drawing with the camera lucida, in order to give the figure exactly, without any exaggeration. It will be observed that there are defects in the proportions, similar and as numerous as in Egyptian sculpture; for instance, the faulty manner of drawing the eye, the shortness of the arms, and the form not being fully made out. This queen has in one hand the lash of Osiris, and in the other a lotus flower. She is on the seat having the form of a lion, which differs very little from the one we often see on the walls of the templesof Egypt. Her sandals greatly resemble some specimens I have seen at Thebes, and are not unlike those the peasants here now wear. She is seated under a canopy, the top of which is decorated with the common Egyptian ornament of the heads and necks of serpents.
Opposite to her have been placed three rows of figures, the first of which is quite destroyed; the second is injured, but sufficiently entire to render all the hieroglyphics and figures intelligible. The first represents a female pouring out libations to the queen. The vase into which the liquid is represented as falling has a shape which I have never seen in Egypt. This figure has the same rotundity of form, though, from the small scale, it is less conspicuous in my drawing. Behind this are six smaller figures or divinities. The first, from his attributes, and also the hieroglyphics, is the god Thoth, with both hands raised. The next is Horus, with two vases in his hands, from one of which he is apparently pouring water upon plants in two vases, on a stand which has nearly the form of a lotus-flower. Anubis is the next divinity, and he also has a vase in his hand. On one side of this latter figure is a vase, and on the other the lotus flower-stand. After these figures is Kneph, behind whom is a rude and ugly-shaped vase: then follow two figures very much defaced. From the hieroglyphics, one of them must be Seb, but those of the other I am not acquainted with. The only figure discernible in the third row is Anubis, pouring libations. This plate then exhibits four of the divinities generally represented in the judgment-scenes and mysteries of the dead. Thoth, Horus, Anubis, and Kneph present offerings to the queen, the occupant of the tomb.
The consideration of the hieroglyphics of this and the other sculptures on the tombs of Meroe I will defer until another opportunity; only remarking, that the composition of the groups is rather inferior to that in the Egyptian edifices, and that the names in the ovals are unknown. I must also state that it appears to me thatthere is the name of Meroe in the last row of the tablet, before the queen. There is the hieroglyphic of three hills, emblematical of land; the plough and the disk, which, with the vowels generally omitted, may be read, land of Mero, or, in Coptic,Ⲙⲉ ⲢⲎ, “dilectus Sol,” not an inappropriate name. I have an imperfect drawing (given me by Sir William Gell) of a coin found by Mr. Ruppell, on one side of which is a boat and the three long lines, emblematical of the inundation. Above the boat are, apparently, the same two hieroglyphics of the plough and disk, which I conceive to be the name of the capital of Ethiopia.
Pl. 11.From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins Esqr.Printed by C. Hullmandel.SCULPTURE IN THE PORTICO OF A PYRAMID AT MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 11.From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins Esqr.Printed by C. Hullmandel.SCULPTURE IN THE PORTICO OF A PYRAMID AT MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 11.
SCULPTURE IN THE PORTICO OF A PYRAMID AT MEROE.
Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Plate XI.This exhibits a subject more interesting. There has seemingly been a figure, similar to the queen (inPlate X.), on a lion-formed seat, but it is now too much defaced to discover exactly whether it has been a king or a queen. The style of the sculpture is, however, evidently Ethiopian. The centre of this group, also, is divided into three rows. The highest contains a representation similar to part of the great procession in the portico of Medenet Abou, at Thebes. In this interesting little fragment we have a proof that the Egyptians derived even their religious ceremonies from the Ethiopians. Although this row of figures is exceedingly injured, I distinguished clearly the jackal, ibis, and hawk standards, carried by priests shaved, and with long robes, like those in the procession at Medenet Abou; thus confirming what Diodorus says, that “the priests in Ethiopia observe the same order and the same customs as the Egyptians. Those who are devoted to the worship of the gods purify themselves, shave, and dress, in the same manner.” Following these standard-bearers is a curious figure of Anubis and four priests bearing a boat, but almost defaced. I cannot agree with those who suppose that this procession alludes to the expeditions of the Ethiopians, undertaken at the command of their oracle, or that it is as Heeren calls it the oracle ship. I consider it rather a religious type, emblematical ofthe passage of the soul into immortality; the voyage to “the undiscovered land, from whose bourne no traveller returns.”
In the same row of this plate we have Isis, Osiris, Horus, and Thoth. The addition of the two former is important, when we consider that they are in a real Ethiopian edifice. Osiris is represented, as at Thebes, as president of Amenti, under the figure of a mummy; his lash in his hand, and the head-dress of the globe and feathers, &c.
In the third row, Isis, with the head-dress of the hieroglyphic called the throne, is caressing a hawk on a pedestal; the type of her son Horus. The third row contains a variety of elegant vases. We have here the true origin of many that were once thought Greek, and only recently acknowledged to be Egyptian. The large figure, offering with one hand a vase of incense, and with the other pouring libations, is remarkable for his short girdle, made of the skin of a lion. This is another proof of the originality of the style. The common Egyptian and Ethiopian lion-formed seat had also, very probably, its origin here, where lions abounded. If in Egypt now, so thinly inhabited (compared to what it formerly was), there are none of these animals, it cannot be supposed that they existed there when the population was so much denser. Diodorus says, that, as there was no wool in Ethiopia, the inhabitants covered their nakedness with the skins of beasts; and the Ethiopians, under Arsamenes (Herod. vii. 69.), are described as clothed with the skins of panthers and lions. Strabo also says that some of them only wear a cincture of skins, the sheep being without wool. The ornament at the bottom of this plate is unique, representing serpents standing erect, with arms and hands, in which they are each holding a feather, the symbol of truth. I have never seen this representation in Egypt, but it reminds me of some of the subjects in the tombs of the kings. The ornament at the top of this plate, representingstars, that is, the heavens, is constantly seen in Egypt, and is also, seemingly, of Ethiopian derivation.
Pl. 12.From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins Esqr.Printed by C. Hullmandel.SCULPTURE IN A PYRAMID AT MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 12.From a Drawing by G. A. Hoskins Esqr.Printed by C. Hullmandel.SCULPTURE IN A PYRAMID AT MEROE.Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Pl. 12.
SCULPTURE IN A PYRAMID AT MEROE.
Published by Longman, Rees & Co. April 6th. 1835.
Plate XII.(the third of Sculpture) represents the inner tablet, or the three rows of figures, in a subject upon the opposite wall, and is connected with the fragments of two figures, and adorned with decorations defaced, but apparently so precisely the same asPlate XI.that I have thought it unnecessary to repeat them. The smaller figures in this subject are also less perfect. In the first row is the fragment of a figure certainly meant for Osiris; before him may be distinguished four very small divinities, perhaps the genii of Amenti, and a lion, seated on a pedestal, the executioner of justice. In the same row is a curious group of four hogs. I have been told that a representation of these animals once existed on a tomb at Thebes; but this is the first time I have seen them sculptured on any edifice in the valley of the Nile. In the second row is a pedestal, upon which is the model of a monolithic temple. On one side of the latter is a goose, and on the other a hawk, emblematical of the divinities Seb and Horus; after which there is a representation of a tree, with a figure on each side, followed by Thoth, with his hands raised towards the figure of a mummy: the head of the latter is defaced; but its shape is important, as proving that the Ethiopians were acquainted with the art of embalming. The third row contains a pedestal, or altar, on which three figures are seated. One with the globe and horns is Isis; the third, Horus; the other, is defaced: behind these is a large twisted serpent. In the second row of this tablet, and also inPlate XI.,is an altar or pedestal, on which are cakes of bread, and in the midst of them the flowers of the lotus; indicating, I conceive, that they are the bread of that plant. The figure with a ceinture of lion’s skin, in both these subjects, is pouring libations on the flowers, symbolical, perhaps, of the reign of the king, who, like the inundation of the river, had spread abundance and prosperity over the land. There were some other fragments on theporticoes, and in one I observed a balance, and Thoth and Horus weighing the actions of the deceased before the judge, Osiris; a common subject on the papyrus, and which is also seen on the walls of the Temple of Athor at Thebes, &c.
At the extremity of each portico, as before observed, is the representation of a monolithic temple, above which are the traces of a funeral boat filled with figures, but all too defaced to be distinctly made out. In the centre of each boat is the sphere in the usual concave socket; and I was able, with much difficulty, to distinguish the divinities Kneph and Anubis. On each side of the boat is a pedestal on which is the bird with a human face representing the soul: one has a sphere on its head. Diodorus mentions that some of the Ethiopians preserved the bodies of their relations in glass (probably alabaster) cases, in order to have them always before their eyes. These porticoes may have been used to contain such cases.
I have carefully described this interesting and magnificent cemetery; but how shall I attempt to express the feelings of the traveller on treading such hallowed ground? One who, in passionate admiration for the arts, had visited the chief galleries of Europe, gazed upon the breathing image of divinity in the Apollo of the Vatican, or the deep expression of the most poetical of statues, the Dying Gladiator of the Capitol; who had beheld and felt the pictorial creations of a Raphael and a Correggio, and, with delight, contemplated Grecian, Roman, and modern sculpture, could not be unmoved at finding himself on the site of the very metropolis where those arts had their origin. The traveller who has seen the architectural antiquities of Rome, and has admired the magnificent use that nation has made of the arch, making it the chief ornament of their baths, palaces, and temples, would be further deeply interested at finding here the origin of that discovery. These emotions would be felt with peculiar force by one who, like myself, had been fortunate enough to trace art through herearliest creations,—from the splendid Gothic edifices of the north to the ruins of the Eternal City—from Rome to Magna Græcia—from the magnificent Temple of Neptune at Pæstum to the still purer antiquities of Sicily, particularly at Girgenti, where nature and art seem to have vied with each other—from that interesting island to the Morea and the city of Minerva, where the knowledge of the arts, sown in the most genial soil, produced the perfection of elegance, chasteness, and magnificence. But the seeds of the knowledge of the Greeks were derived from Egypt; and the Egyptians received their civilisation from the Ethiopians, and from Meroe, where I now am writing. The beautiful sepulchres of that city afford satisfactory evidence of the correctness of the historical records. Where a taste for the arts had reached to such perfection, we may rest assured that other intellectual pursuits were not neglected, nor the sciences entirely unknown. Now, however, her schools are closed for ever, without a vestige of them remaining. Of the houses of her philosophers, not a stone rests upon another; and where civilisation and learning once reigned, ignorance and barbarism have reassumed the sway.
These pyramids are of sandstone, the quarries of which are in the range of hills to the east. The stone is rather softer than the Egyptian, which, added to the great antiquity, may account for the very dilapidated state of most of these ruins; and also for the sculpture and hieroglyphics being so defaced. Time, and the burning rays of a tropical sun, have given them a brownish red tint, in some parts nearly black. As the operation of many ages is required to make this change on a light-coloured sandstone, a further proof is afforded of the great antiquity of the monuments. The stones being small, and easily removed, it is fortunate that the chief group of pyramids is so far distant from the Nile; otherwise, like those on the plain, near the river, a great proportion of them might have been carried away as materials for the erection of more modern edifices.
This, then, is the Necropolis, or City of the Dead. But wherewas Meroe, its temples and palaces? A large space, about 2000 feet in length, and the same distance from the river, strewed with burnt brick and with some fragments of walls, and stones similar to those used in the erection of the pyramids, formed, doubtless, part of that celebrated site. The idea that this is the exact situation of the city is strengthened by the remark of Strabo, that the walls of the habitations were built of bricks: Εν δε ταις πολεσιν αἱ οικησεις εκ φοινικινων σχιζων διαπλεκομεναι και τοιχων εκ πλινθων. These indicate, without doubt, the site of that cradle of the arts which distinguish a civilised from a barbarous society. Of the birthplace of the arts and sciences, the wild natives of the adjacent villages have made a miserable burying-place: of the city of the learned—its “cloud-clapt towers,” its “gorgeous palaces,” its “solemn temples,” there is “left not a rack behind.” The sepulchres alone of her departed kings have fulfilled their destination of surviving the habitations which their philosophy taught them to consider but as inns, and are now fast mouldering into dust. As at Memphis, scarcely a trace of a palace or a temple is to be seen. In this once populous plain I saw the timid gazelles fearlessly pasturing. The hyenas and wolves abound in the neighbouring hills. This morning Signor B. met a man with the head of one which he was carrying in triumph to his village: he said that he had been attacked at once by three small ones when alone, and with no weapon but his lance. The small villages of Bagromeh[19], south of the ruins, consist of circular cottages with thatched conical roofs. The peasants have numerous flocks, which they send to pasture on the plain. On the banks of the river I observed cotton, dourah, and barley. Such is the present state of Meroe. It is an ample requital for my toilsome journey, to have been the first to bring to England accurate architectural drawings, &c. of all the remains of the ancient capital of Ethiopia, that city which will ever live in the grateful recollection of those who love the arts.
March 6.My rais informed me, this morning, that he could wait no longer; that his orders from the Mahmoor were only to show us the ruins; that he knew the governor wanted the boat; and that he would not stay another night on any consideration. I should have wished to have remained a few days more at this interesting place, particularly with the view of making some excavations, but I must confess I had no great hopes of the latter being of much avail. Since the enterprising French traveller, M. Cailliaud was here, the desert must have made great encroachments on the ruins in the plain, as I saw nothing of the traces and almost plan, of a temple which he has marked in his General Plate, No. XXXI.
It will be alleged that there are a great many discrepancies between my architectural and picturesque views and those of M. Cailliaud. I have only to remark that the former are by M. Bandoni, a most skilful Italian architect and painter of acknowledged reputation, whose sufficient recommendation to me was the patronage of that most distinguished of British antiquarians, Sir William Gell. The picturesque views are drawn by myself, with the utmost care and attention, and with the camera lucida; so that I can vouch for the correct position of every stone. M. Cailliaud has given several pieces of sculpture from the propylons. I observed that the façades of two of the porticoes were ornamented with sculpture, representing a king sacrificing prisoners—a subject so often seen in Egypt: they were very much injured; but had they struck me as being so extraordinary as he has represented them, I should certainly have drawn them separately. The figure which appears in my camera view (Plate IX.) has none of those peculiarities. The variations in the directions of the pyramids are most accurately marked; for I was very particular in my directions to Mr. B. on that subject. M. Cailliaud has left me the opportunity of being the first to present to the public several interesting pieces of sculpture, and numerous tablets which decorate the interior of the porticoes.
DEPARTURE FROM THE RUINS. — NUMEROUS VILLAGES, ONE CALLED MEROUEER. — SHENDY. — FORTIFIED HOUSE OF THE MELEK. — INSIGNIFICANCE OF THE PRESENT CAPITALS OF ETHIOPIA. — POPULATION OF SHENDY. — BAZAAR. — PRICES OF CAMELS, SLAVES, ETC. — MANNER OF TRANSACTING BUSINESS. — WOMEN OF SHENDY. — SLAVE SYSTEM. — POWER OF THE ANCIENT MELEKS. — THEIR WIVES. — ARMY OF THE PASHA. — DEATH OF ISMAEL PASHA. — METAMMAH. — THE KATSHEF OF THAT PLACE AND HIS COURT. — KATSHEF OF SHENDY.
Atfive P.M., I left, with great regret, the site of Meroe, and stopped for the night at half past seven. The navigation of the river, in the dark, at this season of the year, is dangerous, on account of the number of rocks. We have passed, this evening, the village of Abukatab, to the west, and on the east a large village called Kabushish, and an island of the same name. We passed Garburiah, a large village to the west, and we are now near El Gililife, a smaller one on the same side. Yesterday, and this morning, I was greatly alarmed for the health of my Dragoman. He has had a most violent dysentery, which I have at last cured with opium and calomel; the former sufficiently strong to keep him asleep. This attack might have been fatal to him had he not possessed a very strong constitution.
March7. We set sail this morning, at six, with a favourable wind, and passed, at nine, a large village called Meroueer, on the west side. The resemblance to the ancient name is obvious, but there are no remains. At ten we passed the village of Sofra, to the west; at half past ten, the village of Gaher, same side, and the small island of Addadiker. Shortly afterwards, we passed the village of Unukatab, and arrived at Shendy at twelve.