....... Η ΣΟΡΟΣ .......... ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΩ .......... ΟΥΔΕΝΙ ..... Ε ..... ΑΙ .... ΜΕΤΑ .....ΚΟΜΙΣ ... ΜΑ .. ΕΝ .. ΤΟ .. ΤΟΛΜΗΣΑΣ ΤΙ ΤΟΙΟΥ-ΤΟ ΤΙΣΕΙ ΤΩ ΙΕΡΩΤΑΤΩ ΤΑΜΕΙΩ 𐆖. Β. Φ. ΚΗΔΟΝ-ΤΑΙ ΔΕ ΤΗΣ ΣΟΡΟΥ ΙΟΥΝΙΟΣ ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΣ ΚΑΙ ΠΟΤΑ-ΜΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΚΛΗΡΟΝΟΜΟΙ ΑΥΤΩΝ ΖΩΣΙΝ ΤΑΥΤΗΣ ΕΠΙ-ΓΡΑΦΗΣ ΑΝΤΙΓΡΑΦΟΝ ΑΝΕΤΕΘΗ ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΕΝ ΕΦΕΣΩΑΡΧΕΙΟΝ
....... Η ΣΟΡΟΣ .......... ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΩ .......... ΟΥΔΕΝΙ ..... Ε ..... ΑΙ .... ΜΕΤΑ .....ΚΟΜΙΣ ... ΜΑ .. ΕΝ .. ΤΟ .. ΤΟΛΜΗΣΑΣ ΤΙ ΤΟΙΟΥ-ΤΟ ΤΙΣΕΙ ΤΩ ΙΕΡΩΤΑΤΩ ΤΑΜΕΙΩ 𐆖. Β. Φ. ΚΗΔΟΝ-ΤΑΙ ΔΕ ΤΗΣ ΣΟΡΟΥ ΙΟΥΝΙΟΣ ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΣ ΚΑΙ ΠΟΤΑ-ΜΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΚΛΗΡΟΝΟΜΟΙ ΑΥΤΩΝ ΖΩΣΙΝ ΤΑΥΤΗΣ ΕΠΙ-ΓΡΑΦΗΣ ΑΝΤΙΓΡΑΦΟΝ ΑΝΕΤΕΘΗ ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΕΝ ΕΦΕΣΩΑΡΧΕΙΟΝ
....... Η ΣΟΡΟΣ .......... ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΩ ......
.... ΟΥΔΕΝΙ ..... Ε ..... ΑΙ .... ΜΕΤΑ .....
ΚΟΜΙΣ ... ΜΑ .. ΕΝ .. ΤΟ .. ΤΟΛΜΗΣΑΣ ΤΙ ΤΟΙΟΥ-
ΤΟ ΤΙΣΕΙ ΤΩ ΙΕΡΩΤΑΤΩ ΤΑΜΕΙΩ 𐆖. Β. Φ. ΚΗΔΟΝ-
ΤΑΙ ΔΕ ΤΗΣ ΣΟΡΟΥ ΙΟΥΝΙΟΣ ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΣ ΚΑΙ ΠΟΤΑ-
ΜΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΚΛΗΡΟΝΟΜΟΙ ΑΥΤΩΝ ΖΩΣΙΝ ΤΑΥΤΗΣ ΕΠΙ-
ΓΡΑΦΗΣ ΑΝΤΙΓΡΑΦΟΝ ΑΝΕΤΕΘΗ ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΕΝ ΕΦΕΣΩ
ΑΡΧΕΙΟΝ
Uponthe borders of the road, about a mile fromTyria, there stands a commodious fountain, and adjoining thereto a pleasant country house; where, as we staid to drink, an hospitable old Turk offered us the entertainment of the place. We were then obliged to refuse the favour, but not without a fresh regret at the inconveniency of our last night’s lodging, when we might have easily passed on to this advantagousconáck.
Wehence travel some hours in a narrow and almost deserted vale, theCaýsterstill flowing on our right hand; till about one a clock we draw near to the extreme edge of theAlymán, a large mountain lying betwixt the city ofEphesusand the village ofGiamobasy, and here ending in an abrupt precipice; on the top of which stands an old castle now converted, as is said, into a college ofdervíses. Near this place theCaýstermingles with a large and muddy lake, which most probably was theStagnum Pegasaeum, mentioned byPliny[38], as having communication with this river. TheAlymánwe take to be theMons Gallesiusof the antients[39]; since theMimas[40], for which some have lately mistaken it, is the highest part ofErythréa, or that cape land, which encloses the bay ofSmyrna.
Wenow thought it more advisable not to reachEphesustill the cool of the morning, but to pass this evening atKirkingécui, a Christian village, lying near two hours to the east of the city. In search of this place our guide unfortunately led us to the leftof the above mentioned lake, up a steep craggy and almost impassible mountain; which when with great difficulty we had conquered, and descended in a way almost as tedious on the other side, we were acquainted by a traveler, that we were out of our road either toEphesusorKirkingécui. This struck a damp upon our spirits, being now obliged to tread back so many unwelcome steps in the heat of the day, despair of all present refreshment, and fearful apprehensions of the miscarriage of our mules. It was therefore voted necessary to hire the above mentioned traveler to conduct us to our village, who accordingly led us by a long and tedious way almost under the castle ofEphesus. But from hence we had an hour and an half of pleasant and diverting riding, betwixt two shelving hills, watered at the bottom with a purling brook; whilst on each side we were entertained with a shady scene of bays, myrtle, oleander, Spanish broom, the plane tree, Judas tree, the strawberry tree, lilach tree, and a multitude of other delightful greens. The frequent stops and misfortunes of this day’s journey had made it almost eight a clock, when we arrived atKirkingécui; where to our incredible satisfaction we found our tents already pitched by our muliteers, who by an unknown and unbeaten path, over two or three mountains, had at last fallen upon the village, more by good fortune than any conduct of their own.
Thevillage ofKirkingécuiis intirely Christian, and supposed to be the miserable remains of the church ofEphesus. The παπᾶς, orpriest, here pretended to shew us a venerable manuscript of theEvangelists, wrote, as he said, byProchorus, one of theseven deacons, mentioned in theActs of the Apostles[41]. Upon inspection the character indeed appeared antient, and possibly may be that of the sixth or seventh century; but the book itself is nothing else but aLectionarium, orCopy of the Gospels, so portioned into lessons, according to the ritual of the Greek church, that, begining atSt. Johnon Easter day, the fourEvangelistsare read out by the return of the year. The sight of that manuscript, and of the small parish church, was the business of this morning; after which we descended by the same pleasant road, whichwe had traveled last night, and so arriving about ten a clock we take possession of the publickaneatEphesus[42].
Theonce glorious and renownedEphesuswas seated in a fruitful vale, encompassed almost round with mountains[43], at a small distance from theCaýster, and about five miles eastward from capeTrogilium; where, at the common charge of allIonia, thePanionia, orcommon councils of Ionia, were formerly celebrated. This vale rises advantagously in the middle with two or three little hills[44], on which the several parts of the antient city lay extended. The same spot of ground is still covered with the rich remains of its former glory. Such are the massy walls, the portals, the arches, the aqueducts, the marble chests, together with the dejected cornishes, shafts, and capitals of many lofty pillars. But the face of the whole yeilds a melancholy and disagreable prospect, being overrun with an incredible quantity of rank and luxuriant weeds, which serve only to corrupt the air, and to conceal the curiosities of the place. This we found to be a disadvantagous circumstance, and such as doubled the labour of this day in compassing the circuit of the city, and tracing the uncertain footsteps of so many valuable antiquities. But because these cannot so intelligibly be represented in the order, in which we viewed them, we shall methodically considerEphesus, as lying in three distinct ruins of a Turkish, Christian, and Heathen city.
Thefreshest ruins of this place appear to be Turkish, and such as witness, that it has been in considerable repute even under its last barbarous conqueror; who also has changed the name ofEphesusinto that ofAiasalúck. Here are to be seen the remains of five or sixmosques, besides one which is still used for Mahometan service. In several places there occur the walls of ruined bagnios, tho they are incredibly increased by the fabulous Turks, and reported to have been here to the number of three hundred and sixty six. But that, which most plainly evidences the late riches of the place, are the many beautiful monuments, which we viewed among their burying places, most of them inscribed with fair Turkish characters. Tis observable, that these are cutrising from the plane of the stone, and not indented within the surface; which is the constant fashion of the Turks in all their public monuments, in opposition to the custom of other times and nations. It is not certain, whether the new castle, which stands to the northward of the old citadel, be of Grecian or Turkish fabric; however it is still kept in repair by the Turks, and filled within the circuit of the walls with fifty or sixty small cottages, which with two or three scattering tenements are the only habitations of the presentEphesus.
Forsuch monuments of Christianity, as are here visited by travelers, we are beholden to the tradition of the neighbouring Christians; who shew the place ofSt. Mark’sandSt. Paul’schurch, together with the standing walls of that dedicated toSt. John; which last apostle, returning from his banishment inPatmosupon the death ofDomitian, lived, and died, and was interred atEphesus[45]. The church ofSt. John, tho still entire, is however miserably transformed, and converted into the profane use of a Turkishmosque. Like all othermosquesof the better fashion, it has a square and spacious yard on the north side, with three different entrances belonging to it. Those to the east and west are reasonably well beautified, being adorned above the portals with curious Turkish sculptures, and materials of rich polished marble. From this yard we enter themosqueby five wooden doors, all of which are carved to an exquisite perfection. Within appear a splendid pulpit andkiblé, both consisting of wrought marble, and the latter more particularly imbellished with painting and gilding of great art and variety. But what are most justly admired and celebrated by all, who have traveled hither, are the four pillars of granate marble, standing in a right line from east to west, and supporting two cupolas, that compose the roof. They are so far disproportioned, that the least is almost three, and the biggest near four feet diameter; besides which the pedestals of some are quite covered with the floor, and all besides one, which is of the compound order, have lost their antient capitals. All these are circumstances, which unanswerably demonstrate, that these pillars are now transported from their first places. And in truth, when the whole fabric is diligently compared with all other Turkishmosques, and this consideration further added, thatthere appears no sign of an altar to the east, or door to the west end; it will be more than probable, that nothing but the southern wall can be the remains of a Christian church. About a mile to the south west of this place, and in the midst of the antient city, stands an high wall, and adjoining thereto a stately gatehouse, in which are these words, most curiously engraven:
.... ACCENSO ........ RENSI ET ASIAE ...
.... ACCENSO ........ RENSI ET ASIAE ...
.... ACCENSO ....
.... RENSI ET ASIAE ...
Together with this imperfect inscription are to be seen the defaced figure of a man on horseback, and another of a serpent twisted round a tree. This is by most adjudged to be a Christian ruin; and indeed if we consider its beauty and grandeur, as it can be no very modern building, so by reason of its misplaced carvings and inverted inscriptions it cannot be very antient; but may conveniently be refered to those times, in which Christianity began to flourish here. And after this there will be room to put in another conjecture, and to guess from the stateliness of the fabric, that it might be the place, where that famous general council of almost two hundred bishops condemned the heresy ofNestorius, in the year four hundred thirty one; tho his errors are still living among the Indians and Chaldeans, two sects which are numerous in the eastern parts ofAsia[46]. Those other Christian monuments, which are commonly shewn atEphesus, are merely fabulous; and serve only to cheat and abuse the curiosity of many travelers, who undergo no little pains and difficulty in coming hither. Such are thecave of the seven sleepers; thefont, in whichSt. Johnis said to have baptized so many primitive Christians; and a square watch tower, which ordinarily goes by the name ofSt. Paul’s prison. This last stands upon a small hill, about a mile nearer the sea, than was thetemple of Diana; and is indeed worth visiting by those, who have not so much superstition or credulity; for its situation gives a commanding prospect over the stream of theCaýster, which here seems to rival theMaeander, and plays with many wanton windings in the adjoining plain.
Thechief heathen antiquities, that are to be seen atEphesus, are the remainder of theold citadel, and the foundation of thetemple of Diana. The former of these is an intire gate, with two broken walls adjoining on each side, which being situated on a convenient ascent, towards the north east of the ancient city, most probably was a sort or citadel, that defended it on that quarter. This gatehouse has the marks of considerable antiquity, tho it has been rebuilt from other more antient ruins; as is evident from some misplaced stones, and broken reversed inscriptions, that occur in the work. Among these are viewed with great satisfaction three flat marble stones, curiously cut inbasso relievo; which tho of different design, and unequal breadth, are placed in a line to adorn the arch of the gate.
Thefirst of these marbles (reckoning from the left hand as we front the gate) has been somewhat injured by time; but from the portraiture of grapes and baskets, and four or five figures in gay and youthful postures, it may be presumed to represent aBacchanal.
Thesecond marble is a military piece, consisting of many intire figures, all cut in postures very bold and masterly, and such as undoubtedly are the work of some noble hand. It designs a warlike horse surprized by an enemy, with his rider lying at his feet; near which several persons are carried captive by Roman soldiers. The chieftain stands by, and is supplicated by a woman in a large loose mantle, whose intercession seems to intercept the action. This has been by some refered to thedestruction of Troy, and by others to a Christian persecution; but with greater probability it may be thought to represent the event of some Roman victory.
Thethird marble is a sepulchral monument, and represents a dead person extended, from his knees upwards, on a funeral bed; the chief mourner sitting, and five other persons standing in a melancholy posture, and lamenting over him. These likewise are very lively figures, and cut with an inimitable perfection.
Ofthetemple of Dianathere are extant no considerable ruins, nor any thing that is lofty and beautiful enough to bespeak it the remains of that famous structure. But in a marshy ground, near theLacus Selenusius[47], betwixt the havenPanórmus[48]and theplace of the antient city, there stand two broken pieces of a massy wall, in which both the present tradition, and accounts of antient geographers, exactly conspire to prove them the small reliques of the temple. As they themselves consist of square hewn stone, so they are surrounded with heaps of the same materials, among which occur some lofty dejected pillars of beautiful and splendid marble. Under the highest of these ruinous walls there descends an artificial passage, which after two or three short turnings proceeds in a straight line thro many narrow rooms and alleys. This, tho dark and noisome, is customarily visited by travelers, with the assistance of a candle and clue of thread; and is called, by we know not what fancy, thelabyrinth of Diana’s temple. But as we observed the like under several large structures, some atSardis, and others at this very place; so it is notorious, that this is but the ordinary method of strengthening any great foundation, and securing the building by subterraneous arches. Returning from this cavity the traveler has nothing else in view, but venerable heaps of rubbish, and uncertain traces of foundations; and must be forced to supply his curiosity with considering, that this was the place, where once stood and flourished that renowned wonder of the world.
Thefirst temple had been burnt on the same night, in whichAlexander the Greatwas born; and this second was then rebuilding, when that prince was residing atEphesus, and pursuing his conquests inAsia Minor. He contributed sumptuously to the expence, and afterwards proposed to reimburse the whole, if the Ephesians would consent to inscribe his name upon the fabric[49]. But those citizens had an ambition equal to that of Alexander, and therefore diverted his desires by a fulsom compliment, and the dedication of a famous picture; which was Alexander himself armed with thunder, designed by the inimitable Apelles, and valued at twenty talents of gold[50].Plinyhas likewise told us, that this temple was adorned with an hundred and twenty seven pillars, each sixty feet high, thirty six of which were carved, and that by the celebrated hand ofScopas. The whole structure was four hundred and twenty five feet in length, and two hundred and twenty feet in breadth; and was founded in this watry ground,out of a vain hope to secure it by that means against time and earthquakes.
Theseare the most remarkable curiosities either of Turkish, Christian, or Heathen antiquity, which in the space of this afternoon we observed atEphesus. Besides which we viewed many intire pillars of an aqueduct, that passes over the plain from the southern hills; as also in two places the uncertain footsteps of a theatre; and without the new castle a full face[51], with two serpents (cut on a stone) whose heads meet over it, and their bodies descend on each side. This monument is supposed to representDiana, in the two characters ofLunaandProserpine. But it is to be wished, that some curious traveler might remain two or three days atEphesus; during which time by removing the weeds, and clearing the confused ruins, he might possibly discover many valuable inscriptions; as by the benefit of a ladder he might take one or two from the wall above mentioned under the Christian ruins, which to our great dissatisfaction we found not legible from the ground.
Amongthe few imperfect inscriptions discoverable in so short a stay, the name of P. VEDIVS ABOSCANTVS, with mention of his wife and daughter, is once or twice repeated both in Greek and Latin. And ΑΤΤΙΚΟΝ ΗΡΩΔΗΝ, or the name of that ingenious Roman, whose part is so entertaining in theNoctes AtticaeofGellius, is preserved on a fragment among the pillars of the aqueduct. In the same place is frequent mention ofM. Antoninus, once particularly on occasion of an honour done by the city to his daughterFadilla.
ΦΑΔΙΛΛΑΝ ΘΥΓΑΤΕΡΑ Μ. ΑΥΡΗΛΙΟΥ ΑΝΤΩΝΕΙΝΟΥΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΥ[52]
ΦΑΔΙΛΛΑΝ ΘΥΓΑΤΕΡΑ Μ. ΑΥΡΗΛΙΟΥ ΑΝΤΩΝΕΙΝΟΥΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΥ[52]
ΦΑΔΙΛΛΑΝ ΘΥΓΑΤΕΡΑ Μ. ΑΥΡΗΛΙΟΥ ΑΝΤΩΝΕΙΝΟΥ
ΚΑΙΣΑΡΟΣ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΥ[52]
Thisdistich likewise on the castle gate is remarkable for the wordPtelea, an old name ofEphesus, which occurs in it.
ΤΟΥΤΟΝ ΟΝ ΕΙΣΟΡΑΑΣ ΤΥΠΟΝ ΟΡΘΙΟΝ ΑΝΤΩΝΙΝΟΥΔΩΡΟΘΕΟΣ ΠΤΕΛΕΗ ΘΗΚΑΤΟ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΜΕΝΟΝ
ΤΟΥΤΟΝ ΟΝ ΕΙΣΟΡΑΑΣ ΤΥΠΟΝ ΟΡΘΙΟΝ ΑΝΤΩΝΙΝΟΥΔΩΡΟΘΕΟΣ ΠΤΕΛΕΗ ΘΗΚΑΤΟ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΜΕΝΟΝ
ΤΟΥΤΟΝ ΟΝ ΕΙΣΟΡΑΑΣ ΤΥΠΟΝ ΟΡΘΙΟΝ ΑΝΤΩΝΙΝΟΥ
ΔΩΡΟΘΕΟΣ ΠΤΕΛΕΗ ΘΗΚΑΤΟ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΜΕΝΟΝ
An invaluable inscription this, if the thing, to which it relates, had been found with it; for it seems to imply the hiding of a medal under the stone, which bore the inscription, that so, when time should destroy the building, the emperor’s face might be communicated to posterity.
Ourway did not lead us by the aqueduct six miles from the city, in which is to be seen that large Latin and Greek inscription, printed in Sir George Wheler’sTravels[53]. Nor did we find those imperfect lines, which he took from a stone half buried in the ground[54]. But there is this perfect inscription on a stone near the gate of the old citadel, with which we shall here finish our account ofEphesus.
Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΕΤΕΙΜΗΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΝ ΑΙΛΙΟΝ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΝΑΠΟΛΛΟΔΩΡΟΝ ΑΣΠΕΝΔΙΟΝ ΦΙΛΟΛΟΓΟΝ ΤΟ ΔΕ ΜΝΗ-ΜΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΤΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΣ ΑΙΛΙΟΣ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΣΖΩΙΛΟΣ Ο ΑΔΕΛΦΟΣ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΖΗ
Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΕΤΕΙΜΗΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΝ ΑΙΛΙΟΝ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΝΑΠΟΛΛΟΔΩΡΟΝ ΑΣΠΕΝΔΙΟΝ ΦΙΛΟΛΟΓΟΝ ΤΟ ΔΕ ΜΝΗ-ΜΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΤΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΣ ΑΙΛΙΟΣ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΣΖΩΙΛΟΣ Ο ΑΔΕΛΦΟΣ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΖΗ
Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΕΤΕΙΜΗΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΝ ΑΙΛΙΟΝ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΝ
ΑΠΟΛΛΟΔΩΡΟΝ ΑΣΠΕΝΔΙΟΝ ΦΙΛΟΛΟΓΟΝ ΤΟ ΔΕ ΜΝΗ-
ΜΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΤΕΣΚΕΥΑΣΕΝ ΠΟΠΛΙΟΣ ΑΙΛΙΟΣ ΦΛΑΒΙΑΝΟΣ
ΖΩΙΛΟΣ Ο ΑΔΕΛΦΟΣ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΖΗ
Itwas a rainy and tempestuous morning, when, as we lay yet a sleep in the publickane, a terrible clap of thunder discharged itself seemingly in the very room. The vehemence of the noise awakened us in great astonishment; and our eyes were no sooner opened, but the whole place seemed to be filled with a red blaze of fire. Each person was first solicitous for the safety of his companions, and afterwards for that of the horses, which were dispersed in their stations about the door. But finding that we had received no detriment, either in our goods or persons, we blessed God for our deliverance; and concluded by an infallible argument, that the displosion must needs be extremely near us, in that the light continued for some time after the sound.
Wemount by six a clock, and now determine our return toSmyrna; to which there lies a straight tho difficult and craggy road, over the top of theAlymán; upon which account we thoughtit preferable to take the way of the plains. This first led us over the bridge of theCaýster, and then quickly after round the abrupt precipice of theAlymán, and that old castle upon its edge, which we had before so much in view, as we rode fromTyria. From hence we pass thro a variety of low woods and pastures, which in themselves were pleasant and diverting; tho the fountains being all dry about this quarter, we were much distressed for want of water. About four hours and a quarter fromEphesuswe descry on our left hand, on the rising of the hill, the deplorable remainder of the castle ofMetropolis; and at the foot thereof such apparent traces of foundations, with variety of hewn marble, as permitted us no longer to doubt concerning the place of that waste city. And it may be added, that computing our way by hours, asStrabodoes by furlongs[55], we did not greatly differ from his account, who places it at little more than a third part of the distance betwixtEphesusandSmyrna. Not far from hence we begin to approach a small, tho not shallow river, runing on our right hand, which probably is thePhyritesofPliny[56]mingling, as he describes it, with theCaýster, not far from theStagnum Pegasaeum, or that lake, which we before observed in our way fromTyriatoEphesus. Beyond this river we saw a large extended pasture, overspread with the flocks, herds, and tents ofTurcmen. They had here pitched their station to the number of fourteen hundred; for as we staid to taste their milk, and to view their habitations, they themselves gave us this account, reckoning about two hundred tents, and seven persons more or less appertaining to each. As the whole race of the Turks were nothing else but a numerous colony, that swarmed fromScythia; so theseTurcmenseem to be the peculiar descendants of theNomades Scythae, orShepherd Scythians, and like them make it their employment to breed and nurture cattle. To this end they never assemble in towns, or betake themselves to houses; but flit from place to place, as the season of the year directs, and seize without control the vast neglected pastures of this desert empire.
Intwo hours and three quarters fromMetropoliswe arrive atTrianta, a small but pleasant village, seated on a dry soil, and enjoying a very healthful air; where we proposed toconáckthis evening. Anagáhere hospitably accommodated us with the convenience of his country house, and likewise treated us with a small collation after the Turkish fashion.
Byseven a clock we leaveTrianta, crossing a little river within the limits of the village, and at an hour’s distance another of the same bigness; one or both of which, as they unite in the bottom of the plain, must be the antientHalésus, that ran into the sea atColophon. We continue in a large and beaten road, leavingGiamóbashyon our left hand, till havingSedícuinow in view, we cross over a watry bottom to shorten our way thither. Here we arrive about ten a clock, and stop to refresh ourselves in the consul’s country house; where after a long disuse of chairs, which are not the fashion of the Turks, we once more had the pleasure of sitting down to diner.
Havingmounted soon after three, the worshipful consul Raye, with several gentlemen of our nation, did us the honour to meet us about two miles distance from the village. On these therefore we waited home the remainder of our way, and so returned before six a clock in good health toSmyrna; having been much obliged to Mr. Whalley for his care and conduct, as well as mutually to one another for that chearful and unanimous temper, which sweetened all our travels, and deceived the several fatigues of this laborious journey.