THEPREFACE.
Nobooks are generally more entertaining and instructive, than the accounts of travels into foreign countries; and especially those, which are written in the way ofJournals.For he, who reads such narratives, is almost apt to fancy himself in company with the traveler, and to take part with him in all his adventures; which at the same time that they shew the peculiar temper, customs, and manners of different nations, excite also a variety of passions, which by their succession please the mind, and make the chief delight even in theatrical performances.
Uponthis account it is, that theLettersofBusbequius,during his embassy inTurkey;and theJourniesof our ingenious and learned countryman Mr.Maundrell,thro several parts of the same vast empire, which he has so accurately described; are repeatedly read, and always with new pleasure.
Therefore, when Mr.Edmund Chishull,only Son of the late ReverendMr. Chishull,who was for some years chaplain to theFactoryof our WorshipfulTurkey CompanyatSmyrna,brought to me not many months since the presentJournalof his Father’sTravels,desiring me to peruse it, and give him my opinion, whether it was a work worthy to be published; I could not refuse his request but applied myself with due care to read and examine it. And I was the more readily induced to this, as I had thro a course of many years the happiness of a perfect acquaintance with his father, even from his return home to his death; and knew him, as well from his conversation, as his writings (particularly that justly celebrated bookof hisAntiquitates Asiaticae)to be not only a man of uncommon learning, but likewise of great sagacity, and indefatigable diligence.
Andindeed my pains in the perusal of these papers were very well rewarded. For besides an agreable amusement common to other writings of this nature, they gave me very useful instruction as to several passages in ancient historians, and other classic authors; and at the same time illustrated many old inscriptions, several of which are now first published, and others taken with greater exactness, than had been done formerly.
HenceI could not but persuade the young Gentleman to oblige the world with this work, and to have it printed in such a manner, as his freinds should advise him. Tho I easily foresaw, that the doing of this would necessarily be attended with some difficulties; as Mr.Chishullhad put into writing those occurrences, which he thought worthy of his notice, at such leisure minutes, as he could snatch from the constant fatigues of his journey; and by that means had sometimes not only thrown many things together without exact order, but often left the places cited from ancient writers to be supplied out of their own works. And besides, his hand being both small and hasty, was frequently not very easy to be read; so that many of the words, as to the manner of spelling, appeared doubtful and uncertain. This made it needful to have the whole first fairly transcribed, and then to fill up the quotations. The former task therefore I committed to a professed penman, and the latter I undertook myself. In the doing of which I not only carefully compared the transcriber’s copy with the original; but had recourse to the authors themselves, and took out of them the several passages, to which the references were made.
WhenMr.ChishullleftEngland,he was fellow ofCorpus Christicollege inOxford,and had a grant of the traveler’s place from the president and society. He set sail from theDownsSeptember the 12, 1698, in theNeptunefrigate, Capt.Thomascommander, and arrived atSmyrnaNovember the 19 following. During the voyage, agreably to his usual diligence, he constantly kept aJournalof what then offered. But as nothing very remarkable occurred at sea; for that reason the account of hisTravels,which is here published, begins with aJourneyundertaken by him some months afterhis settlement atSmyrna.However as in his passage he went on shoar first atCadiz,then atMessina,and after that in the island ofMilo;in each of which places he made several observations, which he afterwards sent in aLetterfromSmyrnato Dr.Thomas Turner,president of his college: thatLetter islikewise now published at the end of this book.
Butas he has generally remarked the situation, government, and other curiosities, of the most considerable cities, thro which he passed; it may seem strange, that no account is here given ofSmyrna,the place of his residence, and where, as he himself tells us, he continued from November 19, 1698, to February 10, 1701-2. This however was occasioned by his design of treating upon that place in a more distinct and particular manner; for which purpose there is a large number of minutes, or heads, detached in a separate part of the book, relating both to the antient and present state of the city; which were afterwards to have been filled up, and inlarged. Tho as they are now left, nothing more appears, that can be of any service to the public, than what here follows.
Theantiquities now extant in this place are these. Thecastle, which wasRoman, and whereDolabellabeheadedTrebonius. The large head ofSmyrnatheAmazonover the gate of the same. The inscription relating toJoannes Ducasover another gate of the same, with the modern orientaleagleon both sides. The small remains of thetheatre, in whichS. Polycarpwas burnt, lately taken to pieces to build theVizír kaneof the place, andbezesten, ormarket. The reliques ofSt. John’s church. The space and walls of an ancientcirque. All which are on the said castle hill, which immediately overlooks the city. The ruins of thetemple of Apolloat the foot of mountCorycus, in an olive grove, and over the θερμὰ ὕδατα. The ruins of thetemple of Aesculapius, orNeptune, in the way toEshekléer; where was lately found the head ofJanus, and another ofM. Modius. A rich and delicate pavement ofmosaicwork by the sea side, towards the north, at a place where the outer wall terminates in the shore; which possibly is the remains of thegymnasium, or some heathen temple. The severalinscriptionsthere lately found, reported inPrideaux, or at the end of this book. The largestonesof a yard and half square in a great and massy wall, now part of akanein theArmenianstreet, on all of which is marked the letter V, as large as the breadthof the stone would permit. The remains of an oldRomanway, paved with broad and massy stones, but smooth, in the road over the castle hill towardEphesus. The remains of the ancient wall encompassing thepomoerium, or a large space of ground about two thousand paces distant all round from the castle, or the city. The scarcity of antiquities now to be found inSmyrnaarises from hence, that it furnished the greatest part of theMarmora Arundeliana.
Theinscriptions here said to bereported in Prideaux,are to be found in the Doctor’s edition of theMarmora Arundeliana.And as to those referred toat the end of our author’s book,such of them will be here subjoined, as are not in the large collection designed by him for asecond partof hisAntiquitates Asiaticae;of which a few sheets only, containing those which relate toEphesus,were printed by him a little before his death, and the rest are now in my possession.
Ina very pleasant valley near the bank of the riverMeles, scarce thirty paces without the city.
ΜΕΝΟΣ[1]ΙΕΡΟΝΑΦΡΟΔΙΤΗΣΣΤΡΑΤΟΝΙΚΙΔΟΣ[2]... ΟΥ ΗΔΕ Κ[ΥΚΛΩΙ] ΤΟ ΠΑΡΑΠ[ΑΝ[3]...ΚΕΙΜ]ΕΝΟΝ ΑΠΟ ΤΩΝ..Π]ΛΕΘΡΩΝ ΚΑΤΑΤΑΣΣΕΤΑΙ ΕΙΣΤΑΣ ΙΕΡΑΣ[ΜΗΤΡΟΣ ΟΔΟΥΣ[4]
ΜΕΝΟΣ[1]ΙΕΡΟΝΑΦΡΟΔΙΤΗΣΣΤΡΑΤΟΝΙΚΙΔΟΣ[2]... ΟΥ ΗΔΕ Κ[ΥΚΛΩΙ] ΤΟ ΠΑΡΑΠ[ΑΝ[3]...ΚΕΙΜ]ΕΝΟΝ ΑΠΟ ΤΩΝ..Π]ΛΕΘΡΩΝ ΚΑΤΑΤΑΣΣΕΤΑΙ ΕΙΣΤΑΣ ΙΕΡΑΣ[ΜΗΤΡΟΣ ΟΔΟΥΣ[4]
ΜΕΝΟΣ[1]
ΙΕΡΟΝ
ΑΦΡΟΔΙΤΗΣ
ΣΤΡΑΤΟΝΙΚΙΔΟΣ[2]
... ΟΥ ΗΔΕ Κ[ΥΚ
ΛΩΙ] ΤΟ ΠΑΡΑΠ[ΑΝ[3]
...ΚΕΙΜ]ΕΝΟΝ ΑΠΟ ΤΩΝ
..Π]ΛΕΘΡΩΝ ΚΑΤΑ
ΤΑΣΣΕΤΑΙ ΕΙΣ
ΤΑΣ ΙΕΡΑΣ[ΜΗ
ΤΡΟΣ ΟΔΟΥΣ[4]
Ona hill near the castle.
Τ. ΦΛ. ΕΥΕΙΔΗΣ ΔΙΑΔΕΞΑΜΕΝΟΣ ΤΗΝΜΗΤΕΡΑ ΦΛ. ΑΦΡΟΔΕΙΣΙΑΝ ΕΩΝΗΣΑΜΕΝΗΝΤΟ ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΠΡΟΣΚΑΤΕΣΚΑΥΑΣΕΝ ΕΑΥΤΩ ΚΑΙ ΦΛ. ΤΥΧΗ ΤΗ ΓΥΝΑΙΚΙ ΚΑΙ ΦΛ. ΠΕΡΣΕΙ ΤΩ ΥΙΩ · ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙΣ ΚΑΤΟΙΧΟΜΕΝΟΙΣ
Τ. ΦΛ. ΕΥΕΙΔΗΣ ΔΙΑΔΕΞΑΜΕΝΟΣ ΤΗΝΜΗΤΕΡΑ ΦΛ. ΑΦΡΟΔΕΙΣΙΑΝ ΕΩΝΗΣΑΜΕΝΗΝΤΟ ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΠΡΟΣΚΑΤΕΣΚΑΥΑΣΕΝ ΕΑΥΤΩ ΚΑΙ ΦΛ. ΤΥΧΗ ΤΗ ΓΥΝΑΙΚΙ ΚΑΙ ΦΛ. ΠΕΡΣΕΙ ΤΩ ΥΙΩ · ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙΣ ΚΑΤΟΙΧΟΜΕΝΟΙΣ
Τ. ΦΛ. ΕΥΕΙΔΗΣ ΔΙΑΔΕΞΑΜΕΝΟΣ ΤΗΝ
ΜΗΤΕΡΑ ΦΛ. ΑΦΡΟΔΕΙΣΙΑΝ ΕΩΝΗΣΑΜΕΝΗΝ
ΤΟ ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΠΡΟΣΚΑΤΕΣΚΑΥΑΣΕΝ ΕΑΥ
ΤΩ ΚΑΙ ΦΛ. ΤΥΧΗ ΤΗ ΓΥΝΑΙΚΙ ΚΑΙ ΦΛ. ΠΕΡ
ΣΕΙ ΤΩ ΥΙΩ · ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙΣ ΚΑΤΟΙΧΟ
ΜΕΝΟΙΣ
Ona square stone in the house of the English consul, being of a later age.
ΒΕΒΙΑ ΑΠΦΕΙΝΤΟ ΘΩΡΑΚΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΕΝϹΟΡΙΑΚΑΙ ΤΗΝ ϹΟΡΟΝ ΤΗΝ ΕΠΙ ΤΩ ΘΩΡΑΚΕΙΩΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΟΙΚΗΜΑΤΑ ΠΡΟϹΚΕΙΜΕΝΑ · ΟΙΚΟϹ ΚΛΕΙΜΑΞ[5]ΚΟΙΤΩΝΜΕΔΕΙΑΝΟΝ ΤΡΙΚΛΕΙΝΟΝ ΟϹΤΟΘΗΚΑΙ.Β. Ϲ.ΕΚΕΛΥϹΙϹ ΕΑΥΤΗ ΚΑΙ ϹΥΝΤΡΟΦΩ ΤΩ ΑΝΔΡΙΚΑΙ ΤΟΙϹ ΤΕΚΝΟΙϹ ΑΥΤΗϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙϹ ΕΚΓΟΝΟΙϹΑΥΤΩΝ. ΧΑΙΡΕΚΑΙ ϹΥ.
ΒΕΒΙΑ ΑΠΦΕΙΝΤΟ ΘΩΡΑΚΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΕΝϹΟΡΙΑΚΑΙ ΤΗΝ ϹΟΡΟΝ ΤΗΝ ΕΠΙ ΤΩ ΘΩΡΑΚΕΙΩΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΟΙΚΗΜΑΤΑ ΠΡΟϹΚΕΙΜΕΝΑ · ΟΙΚΟϹ ΚΛΕΙΜΑΞ[5]ΚΟΙΤΩΝΜΕΔΕΙΑΝΟΝ ΤΡΙΚΛΕΙΝΟΝ ΟϹΤΟΘΗΚΑΙ.Β. Ϲ.ΕΚΕΛΥϹΙϹ ΕΑΥΤΗ ΚΑΙ ϹΥΝΤΡΟΦΩ ΤΩ ΑΝΔΡΙΚΑΙ ΤΟΙϹ ΤΕΚΝΟΙϹ ΑΥΤΗϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙϹ ΕΚΓΟΝΟΙϹΑΥΤΩΝ. ΧΑΙΡΕΚΑΙ ϹΥ.
ΒΕΒΙΑ ΑΠΦΕΙΝΤΟ ΘΩΡΑΚΕΙΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΕΝϹΟΡΙΑ
ΚΑΙ ΤΗΝ ϹΟΡΟΝ ΤΗΝ ΕΠΙ ΤΩ ΘΩΡΑΚΕΙΩ
ΚΑΙ ΤΑ ΟΙΚΗΜΑΤΑ ΠΡΟϹΚΕΙΜΕΝΑ · ΟΙΚΟϹ ΚΛΕΙΜΑΞ[5]ΚΟΙΤΩΝ
ΜΕΔΕΙΑΝΟΝ ΤΡΙΚΛΕΙΝΟΝ ΟϹΤΟΘΗΚΑΙ.Β. Ϲ.
ΕΚΕΛΥϹΙϹ ΕΑΥΤΗ ΚΑΙ ϹΥΝΤΡΟΦΩ ΤΩ ΑΝΔΡΙ
ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙϹ ΤΕΚΝΟΙϹ ΑΥΤΗϹ ΚΑΙ ΤΟΙϹ ΕΚΓΟΝΟΙϹ
ΑΥΤΩΝ. ΧΑΙΡΕΚΑΙ ϹΥ.
Whathe has said in relation to the presentSmyrna,is as follows.
Smyrnais situated in the latitude of 38gr.40m.in a deep bay, that enters within the continent about ten leagues; and is so well defended by theErythraeanpromontory, now capeKara Bornu, and mountCorycus, with the hills commonly calledCordilieu, and its own windings, that it is every where a port, affording good depths and secure anchorage. Immediately within the bay are seven islands, lying in length towards the port ofVourlá, antientlyClazomenae, which of old were called thePeristerides; and the biggest of them,Megale, is now by the English namedLong Island, over againstFochia Vecchia, orPhocaea. CapeKara Bornu, orBlack Nose(antiently the ἄκρα μέλαινα) afforded, asStrabosays, excellent mill stones; which is not unknown to the present inhabitants, and therefore we there see several mills now employed. Within two leagues and a half of the city theHermusenters the bay, and there forms a bed of sand; which being met by a point of land from the opposite shore stops up the haven by a very narrow chanel, thus rendring it κλειστὸς, asStrabothen expressed it. On the said point stands a new and strong fort, calledSangiac Castle; because theGrand Signior’scolours are there exposed, on occasions that require it. From hence we sail towardsSmyrna, in a fair and long arm of the sea, which imitates the pleasures of a canal; whilst the woody mountains on each side, with the city at one end, and the castle at the other, conspire to give a mutual beauty to one another.
Hadour author lived to finish his elaborate account ofSmyrna,from the large materials he had collected for that design, it would doubtless have been a very useful work, and thrown much light upon many passages in ancient writers. And indeed every part of hisTravelsmust certainly have received great advantage and improvements from his review. Tho I question not, but in their present state they will meet with such a reception from the public, as will reward the labours of the learned Father, by a proper incouragement given to his industrious Son.
I shallonly add, that some intimation having been given of aMap,designed to be published with this book that was judged afterwards not so necessary, as at first was apprehended; since there are so many maps already extant of those countries, which make the subject of theseTravels.And therefore as the principal use of such a map would have been to exhibit both the ancient and modern names of several places, which are mentioned by our author; anIndexwas thought more commodious for that purpose. Besides, as he has occasionally introduced many Turkish and other foreign words, without explaining them; this affords likewise an opportunity for their explication. As the benefit of the reader has been consulted in this alteration; so it is not to be doubted, but he will find the advantage of it in perusing the work.
August 12, 1747.
R. MEAD.