W. Gray del.MOSQUE & PLACE OF ASSEMBLY,at Dramanet Galam.Published Feb. 1825. by John Murray, London.
W. Gray del.MOSQUE & PLACE OF ASSEMBLY,at Dramanet Galam.Published Feb. 1825. by John Murray, London.
W. Gray del.
MOSQUE & PLACE OF ASSEMBLY,
at Dramanet Galam.
Published Feb. 1825. by John Murray, London.
The Tonca, whose arrival all appeared anxiously awaiting, soon approached the place, preceded by a number of drums and singers, making a horrible noise. His majesty was on horseback, dressed in yellow, with a large gold ring in each ear, and followed by about one hundred men armed with muskets. When he dismounted a mat was spread for his accommodation near the trunk of the tree, and the place sprinkled with water from an earthern jar by an old woman; this was intended to sanctify (or in other words to drive away any evil spirits from) the place. This ceremony, which was performed with much apparent awe and profound silence, being finished, and the Tonca being seated, the proceedings commenced by a griot or bard proclaiming in a loud voice the object of their meeting, and desiring that all those who had anything to say on the subject, should do so. Each chief then paid his respects to the Tonca, by calling aloud his surname (Batchirie) and wishing him a long and prosperous reign. The chief of Dramanet, who is a priest and styled Almamy, spoke much. He said that, during the late wars with Bondoo, many of the chiefs present had either abandoned their towns to the enemy and taken refuge in those on the west side of the Faleme, there remaining inactive spectators of their country’s fall, or openly assisted in its destruction, which their base conduct had so nearly completed that it became absolutely necessary they should adopt some decisive measure for its defence. He called on them to take example by the hitherto unsubdued resistance made by Samba Congole and the chiefs of Maghana and Magha-doo-goo, who preferred risking their own lives and the liberty of their families to a galling and disgraceful subjection to their enemies: that the time was now arrived when an understanding must be established between them; and he advised them strongly to return to their duty, rebuild their towns, and support with him and his colleagues a war which threatened their very existence. Tonca and Samba spoke in their turn to nearly the same purpose. The end of each sentence spoken by the former was followed by two or three strokes on adrum, and every word the latter said was received with applause. All was carried on in a manner that would not reflect disgrace on the most enlightened senate. One person only presumed to speak at a time, and that in a low voice, and the person speaking never received any interruption before he announced his having finished, which, as well as all that each had said, was repeated in a loud and distinct voice by the respective bards, or griots of the chiefs.
I witnessed a similar assembly at Bondoo, but it was by no means conducted with similar regularity, or respect to good order. The assembly sat three hours, and was dismissed by the Tonca informing the chiefs that having heard all that was advanced on either side, it remained for those to whom the proposal of acting in unison with the others for their country’s good was made, to decide whether they would do so or abide the consequences, which he hinted might not be very pleasant, as the king of Kaarta had made known his determination, “God willing”, to visit their country in the course of that year.
I was much astonished at the shrewd remarks, specious motives, and expressive language used by some of the chiefs present. Almaney Dramanêt, a man advanced in years, possessing considerable influence in the country, and, as he said, “only answerable to God andhis country for his actions”, used every argument, and brought forward every instance of the noble conduct of their ancestors, to induce such as had deserted the cause, to re-embrace it with hand and heart. He expatiated at much length on the disgrace in the eyes of the world, and the sin in the eyes of God, upon the line of conduct they had adopted towards their country and their relatives would inevitably draw down on them; and as an excitement to a return to their duty, he painted in very pleasing colours, the happy and respectable state of that country whose chiefs and inhabitants, having successfully used their joint endeavours to defend it from the encroachments of an inveterate enemy, enjoyed the fruits of their labours, with the satisfaction of a good conscience, and the comforts of a social and quiet life.
I could quote numerous other similar arguments made use of by many of them, but as I suppose the object that I had in view in doing so at all is gained by what I have just stated, I shall not weary my reader with unnecessary matter, and shall therefore merely say that these people are far from being that savage unsophisticated race of mortals, which they are by many supposed to be; and, in my humble opinion, want but long and uninterrupted intercourse with enlightened nations, and the introduction of the Christianreligion, to place them on a level with their more wealthy northern fellow-creatures.
Samba’s messenger did not return from Kaarta until the 26th of January, at so late an hour that, although my anxiety to be made acquainted with the result of his embassy was great indeed, I was obliged to exert my patience until the following morning, when Samba came with him to my hut, and informed me that, after waiting several days for an answer from Modiba, he at length received one to the following effect, that a guide should be appointed immediately to conduct me to Kaarta, and that every assistance and protection I might require should be afforded me as far as Modiba’s arm (influence) extended. This was (as far as words went) good; but the guide had not arrived, and although the messenger was told he should join him before he passed the frontier (where he waited two days for him), he did not make his appearance. The messenger, however, said that I might expect to see him in a few days. Patience again: for without it nothing was to be done. On this occasion however (at least with regard to his coming) it was not much tried, for he arrived on the 28th instant, after telling me that Modiba had sent him to conduct me to Kaarta, where I should be received and treated as the friend of Samba. He said that in consequence of the wilderness throughwhich our path lay being infested at that time by several bands of robbers from Kasson under Hawah Demba, he could not undertake to lead me into it, before he could (by returning to Kaarta) bring a force to escort me. This was a disappointment indeed. I urged him to banish his fears on my account; and told him that although I well knew such robbers were on the road, and actually murdered and robbed several people, I was nevertheless ready and anxious to proceed, as I felt satisfied that no party of those people, were they even three times our number, would dare to attack us. Remonstrance was vain. I was obliged to submit to farther delay, which both Samba and the Guide (Bokari) promised should not be longer than twelve days.
This unexpected procrastination was almost insupportable. I saw my means fast diminishing, the fine weather as rapidly passing away, and no more prospect of sincerity on the part of Modiba than I had experienced from Almamy. The hope, however, that I might be deceived in my opinion, and that the promised day would bring back Bokari with an escort, rendered it passingly tolerable to one who, from constant disappointment, had, in some measure, become insensible to the anxiety incident to such a state; but to add to my annoyance on that head, Icould not get Bokari to move before the 4th of February, in consequence of one of two Moors who had gone in search of game for Samba, having been murdered by the party under Hawah Demba on the 25th of January.
However, in order that no business of mine should delay me a moment after the return of Bokari, I made the presents to Samba and the chiefs of that part of Galam, which their attention to me and their intercession with Modiba in my behalf deservedly merited.
From the 10th of February, the day on which Bokari promised I should see him, to the 13th of March was spent by me in endeavours to induce a travelling merchant then at Fort St. Joseph, and about to proceed to Kaarta with a large caravan, to allow me to accompany him, to no effect. He said, he dare not bring a white man into that country without Modiba’s permission. This, however, was not his motive for refusing; he thought, and justly enough, that, after my arrival in that country, European goods, of which his venture chiefly consisted, would fall in value, from the quantity I must unavoidably give in presents and the purchase of provisions.
On that day Samba, who had been absent from his town since the preceding night, cameto tell me, that the Kaartans had gone into Bondoo on a plundering excursion that morning, and would no doubt be at Fort St. Joseph some hour during the night, when, after a little rest, they were (in compliance with directions from Modiba) to escort me to Kaarta. This was what I wanted; but it was matter of much regret to me, that they should have taken advantage of the opportunity which coming for me afforded them, of disturbing the people of Bondoo, and of committing acts of rapine and cruelty, to which civilised nations are, thank God, strangers. About eight,P.M.they began to make their appearance in parties of from ten to twelve horsemen, and continued doing so until midnight.
On the morning of the 14th of March, I hastened to an interview with Samba, and the Kaartan chief whose name was Garran, a nephew of Modiba and son of Sirabo, a former king of that country. After the usual complimentary salutations, he told me by means of my interpreter that at my own desire his father (for so he called Modiba) had sent him with a detachment to escort me to his country, where I should meet with kind and friendly treatment during my stay, and receive the assistance I required in prosecuting my journey as far, at least, as Modiba’s power reached. On my asking him to name an early day for our departure,he said that he had some business to transact with the chiefs of Upper Galam, but that if once settled, he would not give me farther delay. He made much inquiry respecting my transactions with Almamy Bondoo, and said that his conduct to me was of a piece with all his former acts. He expressed his regret that I had not demanded assistance from Modiba when I found it was Almamy’s intention to deceive me, and was much surprised when I told him that, although I was very badly treated by the princes and chiefs of Bondoo, I did not consider myself authorized, much less feel inclined, to bring war into their country. As only a part of the Kaartan force was bivouacked near our huts, I went to the adjoining towns for the purpose of ascertaining their numbers, which I found to amount to about one thousand, all horse. They had made one hundred and seven prisoners, chiefly women and children, and had taken about two hundred and forty head of cattle. Many of these unfortunate beings were known to me. The men were tied in pairs by the necks, their hands secured behind their backs; the women by the necks only, but their hands were not left free from any sense of feeling for them, but in order to enable them to balance the immense loads of pangs, corn or rice, which they were forced to carry on their heads, andthe children (who were unable to walk or sit on horseback behind their captors) on their backs.
The chiefs of the adjacent towns were summoned to attend an assembly on the 16th of March, when it was matter of discussion whether another attack should not be made on Bondoo before the departure of the Kaartans. It was, however, decided (much to my satisfaction) that nothing more should be done in that way, and the 18th of March was fixed for our departure. Having taken leave of Samba, and returned him thanks for his kindness in obtaining from Modiba the assistance I required, I lay down at a late hour on the night of the 17th of March, to take a little rest; but my impatience to see that day break, which was about to give me the opportunity of another attempt towards accomplishing the object of the expedition, prevented my doing so: I therefore employed the time in packing up some dry provisions for our use until we could reach Kaarta. At day-light we commenced passing the animals and baggage to the north bank of the river, where, with the assistance of a canoe, all was safely landed soon after eight o’clock.
The animals were immediately loaded, and we moved forward to theESE., along the bank of the river through corn-grounds, until a quarterafter eleven, when we reached Maghem-Yaghere, a small and miserably poor walled town, inhabited by a few Gidumaghs, who prefer leading a most precarious and slave-like life under the Moorish and Kaartan despots, to abandoning their native soil. We halted at a short distance east of the town, in order to await the arrival of the army, and to adjust some loads which from the asses’ lying down under them had been disarranged.
I had an opportunity of witnessing during this short march the new-made slaves, and the sufferings to which they are subjected in their first state of bondage. They were hurried along (tied as I before stated) at a pace little short of running, to enable them to keep up with the horsemen, who drove them on as Smithfield drovers do fatigued bullocks. Many of the women were old, and by no means able to endure such treatment. One in particular would not have failed to excite the tenderest feelings of compassion in the breast of any, save a savage African; she was at least sixty years old, in the most miserable state of emaciation and debility, nearly doubled together, and with difficulty dragging her tottering limbs along; to crown the heart-rending picture, she was naked, save from her waist to about half way to the knees. All this did not prevent her inhumancaptors from making her carry a heavy load of water, while, with a rope about her neck, he drove her before his horse, and, whenever she shewed the least inclination to stop, he beat her in the most unmerciful manner with a stick. Had any of those gentlemen (if any there be) who are either advocates for a revival of that horrid and unnatural traffic in human flesh, or so careless about the emancipation of this long degraded and suffering people as to support their cause (if they do it at all) with little ardour, been witness to the cruelties practised on this and similar occasions (to say nothing of their sufferings in the middle passage), they would soon change their minds, and be roused to make use of all their best exertions, both at home and abroad, to abolish in toto the slave trade, which, although it has received a mortal blow from the praiseworthy and truly indefatigable exertions of Africa’s numerous and philanthropic friends in England, must exist as long as any of the states of Europe give it their support.
I endeavoured to purchase from Garran the freedom of the poor old woman, but although I told him to fix his own price, I could not induce him to comply. He told me that nothing could be disposed of before the king had seen all that was taken. I, to no purpose, representedto him the more than probability of this poor creature’s falling a victim to the hardships she must necessarily undergo before she could reach Kaarta. Those savages only ridiculed my compassion, and asked me if I was gratified in seeing the people of Bondoo thus punished. My reply in the negative only excited their laughter, and drew a remark from Garran, “That people so sensible to the sufferings of their enemies could not be good warriors.” Alas! what an error, and what consequent scenes of distress and misery!!
We left Maghem-Yaghere at six on the morning of the 10th, passed a small village called Gakoro, close to the river, at half after six, and arrived at the ruins of N-gany-n-gorē at noon. This had been a considerable town, and was destroyed about two years before by the very people who were now escorting us. Having halted during the heat of the day under some large shady trees, that had formerly afforded a cool and pleasing retreat from the scorching rays of the sun to the inhabitants of the town, and now to us, and the destroyers of their peace, we moved forward at half after four in the afternoon, and continued to do so until eight, when we halted for the night at the ruins of another Gidumagh town, called Soman Keeté. The first part of this day’s march lay through corngrounds, and open wood, close to the river side, for about thirteen miles,ESE.In the latter part of it we were much impeded by the steep and rocky state of the dry beds of several torrents, which in the rainy season convey the waters collected by the mountains in theNE.to the Senegal, which at Soman Keeté runs for some hundred yards over a shelving bed of solid rock, and on which there was at that season, only eighteen inches water. On the south bank immediately opposite, stands Dhyagh-an-dappé, a large town of Galam.
There being no water at the next halting-place, we filled all our soofras, and at one,P.M.on the 20th, entered the wilderness, through which we travelled without any path until nine, having passed the dry beds of several streams, and three extraordinary piles of rocks. They were each nearly one hundred feet high, and composed of enormous round masses of stone (granite, I believe) heaped together in the form of an irregular cone. They are situated in an immense plain thinly covered with wood, and are at a very considerable distance from any mountains or other eminences.
The sufferings of the poor slaves during a march of nearly eight hours, partly under an excessively hot sun and east wind, heavily laden with water, of which they were allowedto drink but very sparingly, and travelling barefoot on a hard and broken soil, covered with long dried reeds and thorny underwood, may be more easily conceived than described. One young woman who had (for the first time) become a mother two days only before she was taken, and whose child, being thought by her captor too young to be worth saving, was thrown by the monster into its burning hut, from which the flames had just obliged the mother to retreat, suffered so much from the swollen state of her bosom, that her moans might frequently be heard at the distance of some hundred yards, when refusing to go on she implored her fiend-like captor to put an end to her existence; but that would have been too great a sacrifice to humanity, and a few blows with a leathern horse fetter, soon made the wretched creature move again. A man also lay down, and neither blows, entreaties, nor threats of death could induce him to move. He was thrown across a horse, his face down, and with his hands and feet tied together under the animal’s chest, was carried along for some distance. This position, however, soon caused difficulty of breathing, and almost suffocation, which would certainly soon have ended his miserable existence had they not placed him in a more easy posture, by allowing him to ridesitting upright; but he was so exhausted that to keep him on the horse, it was necessary to have him supported by a man on each side. Never did I witness (nor indeed did I think it possible that a human being could endure) such tortures as were inflicted on this man. When he first refused to go on, they had recourse to a mode of compulsion which I have been told is common on those occasions, but of too disgusting a nature to be described. I did not see the old woman, nor could I ascertain, what had become of her.
We moved forward at three o’clock on the morning of the 21st, and travelled east, through woods until half after seven, when we reached the foot of a high range of rocky mountains, running north and south, said by the Kaartans to be a continuance of those which break the course of the Senegal at Feloo, forming the falls of that name. Their western sides are steep, much broken, and very difficult of access; and their tops where we crossed them, a flat table land thinly covered with stunted wood, and in many places forming a surface of solid flat rock, bearing a brown metallic polish, so smooth that the animals were constantly slipping. The descent on the eastern side was scarcely perceptible, and as we advanced, the soil began to bear a more fertile, and less rocky appearance. At halfafter ten we reached Conian-gee, or the water of Conian, where a town formerly stood, but of which no vestige remained. It belonged to Kasson, and was destroyed by the Kaartans. The place appeared to be the resort of numerous herds of elephants and other wild animals, drawn there in search of water, in which, though muddy and of a bad taste, the place abounded. Some of our asses that had fallen and thrown their loads, in scrambling up those mountains fell to the rear, and were, with the men attending them, attacked by so dense a swarm of bees, that the former ran into the woods throwing their loads, and the latter were obliged to seek safety in flight. It was not without much labour and loss of time that the loads were brought up, or the asses found.
Having made a scanty meal with some of our dried provisions, and filled our soofras with putrid water, we moved forward to theENE., at fiveP.M., and, travelling through close woods until eight, arrived at a place called Mama Niarra, where, to our no small mortification, the supply of muddy water we expected to meet was dried into mud itself. To increase the unpleasantness of our situation, some of the Kaartans who had gone on before set fire to the grass, which, being to windward of us, made rapid progress towards the spot where we had halted.It providentially did not reach us, and we had only to complain of a restless night, and much anxiety, to say nothing of our labour in clearing the ground around our bivouac.
Four o’clock on the morning of the 22d again found us moving toENE.At seven we passed the Kolle-m-bimee, or black creek, nearly dry and running south; it joins the Senegal a little above Feloo. Our path then changed to due east, and over a swampy soil through an immense forest of lofty ron-trees[30], which continued all the way to Kirrijou, the first town of Kasson, where we arrived at half after ten.
Garran here left us, and gave us into the care of Bojar (Modiba’s eldest son), at whose town his father wished us to remain during our halt in that country, and whither I should have proceeded the following morning, but the men and animals were so much fatigued, that I found it necessary to give them a day’s rest.
Kirrijou is beautifully situated on an eminence overlooking an extensive plain bounded by forests of ron-trees, and covered with the most luxuriant verdure nearly all the year round, except when inundated, which is the case yearly for four months, from July to October. Large quantities of corn, rice, ground-nutsand onions are grown there, and the people are well and abundantly supplied with milk and butter from large herds of horned cattle and sheep. The only disadvantage the place labours under is the bad quality of the water, which they obtain from wells about four feet deep, on the borders of a narrow stagnant lake.
The chief (Saféré) who with his followers and slaves composed a part of the Kaartan forces, received us kindly, provided us with huts, and furnished us with an excellent supper of rice and mutton, the first good one we had made since leaving Galam.
I paid him a complimentary visit at his palace, where I found him seated in an open court surrounding his own hut, but separated from the others, composing the palace, by a clay wall eight feet high. He was attended by a few of his domestic slaves and favourites. He accommodated me with a seat on his own mat, and asked many questions about the country of the white people, as they call us, our mode of warfare, government, laws, and revenue, and appeared much astonished at some of my answers, particularly when I said that we fought on firm ground and on horseback, and which he acknowledged he could scarcely credit, as it was his belief in common with all the natives of the interior, that we live exclusively on the sea in ships,where we subsist entirely upon fish, to which they attribute the whiteness of our skins. He pressed me much to spend a few days with him, and, as an inducement, said he would make his wives and daughters exert their musical and dancing abilities to amuse me, but my time was too precious to be spent in amusements.
MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS.(Large-size)
MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS.(Large-size)
MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS.
(Large-size)
Having made Saféré a small present in acknowledgement of his attention to our wants, we left Kirrijou at four o’clock on the morning of the 24th of March, and travelled north, through corn-grounds, until half after five, on the road leading to Jaffnoo, when we turned off to the right, and continued marching due east through a wood without any path until twoP.M., at which hour we reached Moonia, the residence of Bojar, and the place named by Modiba for our halt. The animals were all very much fatigued, particularly the camels, owing to the excessive heat of the day and the roughness of the latter part of our path, which lay over hilly and broken ground covered with sharp loose stones; in fact, ten hours’ march is too much for either man or animals in that country, particularly during the heat of the day.
Bojar who accompanied us from Kirrijou, furnishedus, on our arrival, with an excellent dinner of cous cous, milk, and honey, and abundance of fine water, such as we had not tasted since we left the Senegal. Huts were provided for our use until (as Bojar said) some could be erected for us at a short distance from the town. As this indicated our being likely to make a long halt at Moonia, I made known to Bojar my displeasure at the very idea of our being detained there long enough to admit of their completion, and was told by him that two or three days were sufficient for that purpose.
Anxious that a moment should not be lost in making known to Modiba my desire of proceeding to Sego without delay, I wished to despatch Giboodoo to Dhyage the day after our arrival, with presents to him and his head men, but his Majesty’sdrinking daybeing Monday, when no business is ever transacted, I was obliged to wait for Tuesday. Bojar who, like his father, always made a sacrifice of one or more days in each week to the ruby-lipped god, came to see me, bringing with him a large calabash of a sort of beer, made by themselves from fermented corn, but which is by no means palatable, being more insipid than the worst table-beer made in England, but from no bitter beingused it immediately sours and becomes intoxicating, which effect it soon had on Bojar and all his followers. They were, however, very good humoured, and so great was the prince’s wish to make me comfortable and feel at home (as he said) that he sent for one of his sisters and presented her to me as a companion to cheer my idle hours, and teach me to speak Bambarran. My want of gallantry upon this occasion was remarked by all present, and I was asked if I had a wife in my own country, or if I did not think the one presented to me handsome enough for my acceptance. An effort to extricate myself from a repetition of such favours, and at the same time to avoid insulting her sable Highness, obliged me to say that I was married, and dare not infringe the laws of my country, which punished with death any man who took unto himself more than one wife. This answer excited more than common remarks on the part of the prince, who said he had been told that white women were so completely mistresses of the men, that the whole care and labour of supporting our families depended on the latter, who dare not even speak to any woman save their wives. Another question of his, namely, should he come to England, would the king give him one of his daughters to wife? drew from me an answer, ofwhich I much doubted the truth, but which, in this instance, I must be excused for not adhering to, as it would not have been proper to hurt the pride of a man who appeared to possess not a small share of it, at least, in his own way, and who thought he was conferring a high favour on the lady, let her be who she may, who might be solicited to partake of his royal protection. After many such questions and answers (by which time Bojar was so satiated with his African beverage that he could not rise from the ground without assistance), he took his leave, and, wishing me a good night, staggered home in company with attendants who were equally overcharged.
Giboodoo, accompanied by Bokari, departed for Dhyage on the morning of the 27th, and took with him a handsome plated tureen, as an introductory present to his Majesty, to whom I sent my compliments, and requested that he would name an early day for my departure, and send people forthwith to receive a present I had brought him. They returned at a very late hour on the night of the 28th, and were accompanied by Modiba’s head maraboo, and one of his chief slaves. I did not see them, before the morning of the 29th, when they informed me that Modiba was muchpleased with the present I had sent him, and had despatched them to see the other things I intended giving him, and to assure me that I should meet with no delay whatever from him.
I laid out for their inspection the things stated in the Appendix, and having made them a small present each, desired them, in laying those things before the king, to say, that my only wish was to be provided with a guide to Bangassi, in Foolidoo, and to be allowed to depart immediately. As I was aware of the influence some of the head slaves and two or three of Modiba’s wives had over him, I sent a present by Giboodoo to four of the former and three of the latter, requesting them to impress on their royal master’s mind the necessity of letting me proceed on my journey without delay, and promising them a farther reward, in case they obtained for me what I wanted. They returned on the 1st of April, to say that Modiba was much pleased with the present, to which he requested I would add some silver, amber, and beads; but, in consequence of the road to Foolidoo being said to be then infested by Moorish banditti, he had despatched some horsemen to ascertain the fact, and as soon as they returned, which would be in two or three days, he would allow me to proceed, if not by that road, byone whereon, although there existed a scarcity of water, we should not have any thing to fear from robbers. This answer was perplexing in the extreme, and, from what had already happened in Bondoo, I began to doubt the sincerity of this chief; but still in order that obstacles should not arise on my part, I sent him the articles he requested, and desired Giboodoo to say that if he would only send a party of twenty horsemen with me to Bangassi, I would run all risks of robbers or other impediments, and make a farther addition to his present by the return of those people. As nothing, however, was to be done without securing the interest of the head slaves, I sent them an additional present each, in hopes of stirring them up to exertions in my favour. Giboodoo took those presents to Dhyage on the 3d of April, and returned on the 4th with answer, that his Majesty was satisfied with my conduct towards him, and would immediately settle my business to my satisfaction. With people whose time is not very precious, immediately often means weeks or more; and as I could ill brook such delay, at least in perspective, I despatched Giboodoo to remain at the king’s elbow until he would give a decisive answer one way or other.
In the mean time, I made presents, large and small, to a host of royal personages, amongstwhom were two of Modiba’s nephews, men possessing considerable influence with him, and to whose care I was particularly recommended by Samba Congole. One of them named Ely, or Ali, assured me (if such assurance valued any thing) that he would make Modiba do all I wanted; but these fine promises were made only to induce me to make more presents. Isaaco also paid me a visit, and wished much to be employed, but he was in too little repute, not to say worse, with both Modiba and Dha, to admit of my having any thing to do with him; the former having taken, but a few days before, nearly all his goods and slaves from him, and the latter was so much displeased at his leaving Sego without his permission, that Isaaco dare not return there. His object in wishing to have a hand in (or, as he thought, the management of) my affairs, was to replenish his own empty purse, and, by having a voice in my business before Modiba, once more ingratiate himself into his good graces. That I was not more faithfully served by those already employed than I should be by him, I was satisfied: but one, and one only, advantage did Giboodoo possess over him, namely, that of his being (through his brother Samba) on the best terms with Modiba, with whom I found it impossible to communicate in any other way than through this man,who, for all I either knew or could ascertain, appropriated a part of the presents sent by him to his own use: but, remedy I had none. Modiba would neither see me, nor any of my men, in consequence of his being led to believe, by the Mahomedan priests about him, that should he ever look on a white man he must die. I in vain offered to send two of myblackmen: it would not do; the superstition of those people made them all white, although not in outward appearance, at least in inward disposition.
Precluded as I thus was from a possibility of ascertaining what might be the conduct of Giboodoo at the Kaartan court, I took advantage of the only resource left me, namely, that of appearing to place the utmost confidence in him, and to hold out to him the prospect of a large reward, should he obtain from Modiba the desired escort and permission to proceed. He returned from Dhyage on the 7th, saying, that the king promised to settle my business without delay, for which purpose his head maraboo would come to me the following day: he did not, however, make his appearance until the 10th, when, judge my surprise at being told that Modiba was not yet satisfied with what I had given him.
In this state of continued procrastination fromday to day, under some pretence or other, was I delayed till the 14th, when Giboodoo, whom I had sent to the capital with a farther addition to the present, returned to say that the king had at length consented to my proceeding, and would send, in a few days, some people belonging to Bangassi to accompany me to that place, but complained of my not having sent him the parting present. This I immediately complied with, adding a few small articles for the head slaves.
For some days previous to that date, great preparations were making for the departure of an expedition into some of the neighbouring states. Bojar and his brothers had proceeded to the capital at the head of their several divisions, and nothing was to be seen but armed parties hastening from all quarters to the general rendezvous. Ali (the prince before mentioned as a friend of Samba’s), on passing through Monia, at the head of his division, which consisted of about six hundred horse and one thousand foot, all armed with muskets, called at my hut to return thanks for the present I had given him; and to say, that on his arrival at Dhyage, he would strongly urge Modiba to terminate my business favourably, which, he assured me, was all along his intention, although he had been advisedto the contrary. I replied, that such might have been the case, but I doubted it; and therefore desired Ali to tell his uncle, that I relied with confidence on his fulfilling the promise made me by Garran, in his name, when he first saw me at Galam, and which alone could have induced me to come into his country.
Giboodoo returned from the capital on the 18th, and said that the Bangassi people were to leave it the following day, and that Modiba had appointed Bokari to accompany me as far as Badoogoo. This was all I wanted; and although I had been much longer detained than I could have wished, I nevertheless forgot all my disappointments in the prospect of once more moving eastward.
The Bangassi people did not arrive until the 20th. They were introduced to me by the maraboo, who said that Modiba, in handing me over to those people, desired him to state, that his reason for having detained me so long originated in nothing but a wish to send me forward in safety, and which the preparations he had been making for the war, prevented his doing sooner, and begged me to believe that his most sincere good wishes followed me.
It was my intention to have proceeded on the 21st, but that being on a Saturday, which as wellas Sunday is looked on by the Kaartans as an unlucky day to commence a journey eastward, I could not prevail on either the Bangassi people or the guide to move until Monday, when we left Moonia and travelledESE.over a well cultivated and thickly inhabited country for three hours, which brought us to the foot of a rocky precipice, extending as far as the eye could reach in a north-east and south-west direction. The path by which we ascended it, was narrow and steep, and so much intercepted with huge fragments of broken rocks that we found it necessary to unload the asses before they could pass. The summit presented an extensive plain sloping gently to the east and south-east, bounded in all directions by high distant hills, and thinly covered with stunted under-wood. The path which led to theSSE.lay over a barren soil composed, for the most part, of a slate-like stone, in diagonal strata, resembling in point of colour the slates of North Wales. The sun having set we were soon enveloped in darkness. We however continued marching, or rather groping our way, in the same direction until nine o’clock, when we reached a small walled town under some lofty hills, round the base of which the path turned to theSSW., and soon brought us to Sanjarra, where we halted for the night with the intention of moving forwardthe next evening, but were prevented from doing so, in consequence of the guides having reported the distance to the next town as being too great, and the path which led over the mountains too difficult to admit of our reaching it that night; and as, from the want of water on the mountains, it would be dangerous to halt there during the heat of the day, we decided on leaving Sanjarra at two o’clock the next afternoon, by which means we should be enabled to pass all the difficult places before dark; and having filled our soofras, halt until the moon should rise the following morning. More difficulties, however, were at hand: for on the 25th, we had but just commenced loading the animals, when Garran came to tell me that a messenger had arrived from Dhyage with orders from Modiba, that I should halt at Sanjarra until I again heard from him. My surprise and disappointment at this unexpected arrest, were greater than I had before experienced; for I really thought all was arranged to the king’s satisfaction, and I was so convinced that a short time would enable me to feast my eyes with a view of the Niger, that I had entirely given away to the pleasing delusion, the removal of which completely electrified me; but, as I must have submitted, I did so with an apparent good grace.
The messenger could (or most probably would) not give me any information on the cause of such treatment; and as it was uncertain when Modiba might again condescend to favour me with farther communication on the subject, I despatched Giboodoo (who accompanied me to Sanjarra) to ascertain, if possible, what could give rise to such repeated hindrances, and to inform his Majesty that after what his maraboo had told me at Moonia I was the more surprised and displeased at the present detention.
He returned the following evening (the 26th), and reported having found much difficulty in obtaining an interview with Modiba, who accused him, in common with me, of having deceived him by not giving him his share of an ass-load of silver, which, he said, he had been assured by good authority I had with me; and until I would do so, I must remain where I was; desiring me to consider his having given me permission to proceed as a very great obligation, for in doing so he was giving assistance to his enemies, the people of Bambarra (Sego), who (although he had acted otherwise) would most probably treat me as they had Mr. Dochard.
This was an obstacle to be surmounted which was utterly out of my power, at least to the extentModiba demanded: a few dollars[31]were all the silver I had; but to convince him that was difficult in the extreme, if not impossible.—I however delivered to Giboodoo some other articles, which (if not what he demanded) would at least convince him that as far as my means went I was willing to please him, and directed Giboodoo to say, that the ass-load supposed by the informant to be silver, from its great weight and small size, was our ammunition, and which I would readily submit to the inspection of any person he pleased. He did not return before the 29th at night, when, instead of bringing any satisfactory answer, he said that it was useless for me to think of proceeding farther, as Modiba, although he did not positively say I should not go on, expressed his opinion that my doing so could not be attended with any good, and therefore strongly advised my return, but directed Giboodoo to ascertain my decision and return immediately to acquaint him therewith. I began to suspect that this man was deceiving me, and therefore sent with him on this occasion two of my own coloured men, who spoke and understood the Bambarra language, to be present at any interview he might have with either Modiba orthe chief slaves, for whom I again sent small presents. The 2d of April brought them back with as little prospect of success as before: they did not even see Modiba, but were told by one of the head slaves that he was very much displeased with Giboodoo for bringingwhitemen to his town. In vain did they shew their colour, and state that they were natives of the interior of Africa, the one a Joloff and the other a Jallonkey: they were told Modiba would not see either them or Giboodoo, and would send his maraboo, who would make known to me his will and pleasure.
This man arrived on the 3d, and informed me that the king consented to my going forward, but could not protect me any further than his own frontier, from whence I was to consider myself under the care and guidance of the Bangassi prince. I complained of this breach of the promise made me at Moonia, to which the maraboo only answered by telling me his only business was to repeat to me Modiba’s orders. The Bangassi prince was present and requested that, as he had not any of his own men with him, orders might be given to Bokari to collect fifteen or twenty at the frontier and with them escort us to Bangassi: to this the maraboo consented, and having received a small present for himselfand one for his master, departed, assuring me that I should not meet with any more opposition in Kaarta—but of this I had my doubts.
We moved forward at half after three on the evening of the 4th to theENE., along the foot of the mountains which enclose the valley of Sanjarra on the south and east, and at half after five entered a gully or ravine formed by those mountains: this led us to theSSE.along the then dry bed of a considerable torrent for an hour, when we arrived at the junction of two mountains, where an extremely steep and rugged path was to be ascended, and which we with much difficulty and fatigue effected within an hour: it was without exception the most difficult path I had ever travelled. The mountains, notwithstanding their apparent sterility, are covered with shrubs, and in some places present the most wildly grotesque appearance: strata of a kind of slate, shew themselves in the ravine, the bottom of which is covered with large stones, which from their circular form appear to have been rolled along by the force of the torrents. We had scarcely reached the summit when it became dark, and bore every appearance of approaching rain, which obliged us to halt for the night in the woods.
We were on foot at four o’clock on the morningof the 5th, and marched to theESE.over a rocky and broken path in a valley, along which we continued moving until nine o’clock, when the path changed to theSE.and in half an hour brought us to a small walled town, Gunning-gedy, inhabited by Serrawoollis. We had some rain in the morning, and the weather bore much the appearance of an early wet season.
The chief of the town accommodated us with huts, in return for which I made him a small present, and at six o’clock on the morning of the 6th of May resumed our route to theESE., and passing the dry beds of several streams travelled over a well cultivated country until ten, when we reached, and halted during the heat of the day, at Asamangatary, a large walled town, beautifully situated in an extensive plain, thinly covered with baobabs, tamarinds, and fig-trees. The walls of the town were much higher, stronger, and better constructed than I had before seen in Africa. About half a mile from it to the south stands a large Foolah village, in the rear of which are seen the tops of some lofty hills from whence the plain takes its name. This plain is famous for its earthenware, which is manufactured by the women, and for the large quantities of rice and onions raised there yearly, for both of which, the soil, a dark brown mould, is well calculated.Here begins Kaarta, properly so called. All that part already mentioned as such formerly belonged to Kasso, and was conquered and taken possession of only a few years since by Modiba, who has subjugated not only that country but a great part of Gidumagh and Jaffnoo. We left Asamangatary at fourP.M.and following the same course as in the morning, until half after six, reached Somantāré, another walled town, formerly the residence of Garran, and now belonging to his cousin. It was my intention to move on early the following morning, but Bokari requested me to wait until the afternoon, in order to give him an opportunity of sacrificing to the remains of his father who was burnt there. I would have positively refused to comply with the request had the fellow not made it with tears in his eyes. I found out, however, that he had only adopted this line of conduct to delay me until the arrival of Bojar and a part of the army, which took place about two o’clock on the afternoon of the 1st, on their return from Fooledoo, where they had been sent at the request of Kanjia, chief of Bangassi, to destroy the towns of his brother, with whom he was at enmity, and which they did so effectually, that eight out of nine were burnt, and their inhabitants either murdered or made slaves; four hundred of the unfortunate beingspassed through with Bojar’s division, and I was informed that three times that number had been taken to the capital by the other divisions of the army. I now found, to my deep regret, that my fears were but too justly founded, for Bojar had no sooner arrived than he sent for me and told me I could not proceed any further, as they had destroyed all the towns between the frontier and Bangassi, and had rendered it impossible not only for me, but for any force, to reach that place.
I must here acknowledge my patience almost forsook me. I told Bojar that his father had deceived me, and had brought me into his country with fair promises, which it was now evident he never had any intention of performing, or he would have allowed me to proceed, on my first coming to Moonia. Bojar then said that words were of no avail; his father had directed him, on meeting me, to bring me back with him, in complying with which I should save myself much trouble. The guide and the Bangassi princes were both present, and had been with Bojar some time previous to my being sent for. The former, when I called upon him to fulfil the orders of the Maraboo, with respect to the escort from the frontier towns, said, that his master, pointing to Bojar, had just told me what remained for meto do, and which took out of his power the possibility of remaining with me any longer. The Bangassi prince, who was as anxious as myself to proceed, in vain applied to Bojar for an escort, and at length told me, he was sorry he was so situated, and that he could neither afford me any assistance, nor even command the possibility of his own return to that home which he had but a short time before left as the ambassador of its chief, who was his own brother.
Here, then, vanished all hopes of being able to pass Kaarta, and with them that of being able to accomplish my mission, which had for three years occupied every thought, and drawn forth every exertion, of which either myself, or those with me were capable.
Although this act of treachery on the part of Modiba was in itself more than sufficient to make us relinquish every attempt to proceed further, and the difficulties, dangers, and privations incident to such a service in the interior of that country of such a nature that I must allow them, as they appear on the face of those sheets, to speak for themselves, we would nevertheless have cheerfully gone on had not an obstacle so decidedly insurmountable presented itself in the orders of Modiba to his son, to bring us back by force. But before I decided on returning,I again waited on Bojar, and hinting my disbelief of his father having again broken his promise, said I would remain at Somantarê, and send one of my men to Dhyajê, to receive the king’s final orders, and requested Bojar to accommodate us with huts in the town until the return of my messenger, when, should Modiba only say he could not protect me farther than Kaarta, and not forcibly prevent my proceeding, I would go alone, at my own risk.
Bojar here got into a furious rage, asked me if I did not consider him as Modiba’s son, or if I supposed he had less authority in Kaarta than his father; and said, that although I appeared to doubt his having received orders to stop me, he would prove to me that neither fear of me, nor expectation from me, could induce him tolie; and therefore informed me, that he could not admit of my remaining at Somantarê after himself; nor allow me to send one of my men to Dhyaje, where, he added, some of them had been too often already. What he meant by the last phrase I could not imagine, nor would he condescend to explain. I was therefore, however reluctantly, obliged to submit, and turn my back on the East, and the objects of my mission in that quarter, in the anxious, though unsuccessful pursuit of which I had spent so much time,and to its interests so exclusively devoted my attention.
Were I to hazard an opinion, as to the causes of such deceitful conduct on the part of Modiba, I fear I should be liable to error, in as much as that I could not support any of my ideas on the subject by proof positive. Therefore I leave my readers to draw such conclusions as the circumstances related will enable them.