CHAPTER XIII.
Akpway—Superstition of the Natives—Singular proceeding of my Bullock-Drivers—Arrival at Whydah—Kind Reception by Don Francisco de Suza—Kindness of all the Merchants—Parting Interview with M. de Suza—Sail for Cape Coast—Terror of the Mahee Girl (presented to the Queen) at the Roughness of the Sea—Arrival at Cape Coast—Kindness ofMr.Hutton—Dr.Lilley—Recover from my Fever—Kindness of the Wesleyan Missionaries—General Character of Africans—Hints with regard to Educating them—Observations on the Manners and Customs of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah Countries—Enlightened Conduct of the King of Dahomey—The Dahomans—Trade of Dahomey—Paganism—The Mahees—The Kong Mountains—Sail for England.
Akpway—Superstition of the Natives—Singular proceeding of my Bullock-Drivers—Arrival at Whydah—Kind Reception by Don Francisco de Suza—Kindness of all the Merchants—Parting Interview with M. de Suza—Sail for Cape Coast—Terror of the Mahee Girl (presented to the Queen) at the Roughness of the Sea—Arrival at Cape Coast—Kindness ofMr.Hutton—Dr.Lilley—Recover from my Fever—Kindness of the Wesleyan Missionaries—General Character of Africans—Hints with regard to Educating them—Observations on the Manners and Customs of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah Countries—Enlightened Conduct of the King of Dahomey—The Dahomans—Trade of Dahomey—Paganism—The Mahees—The Kong Mountains—Sail for England.
Aug. 31st.—We marched early in the morning, and about mid-day passed through Akpway, and rested for half an hour, partaking of some refreshment; and after marching for another hour and a half we arrived at Whyboe, where we halted for the night.
Sept. 1st.—In passing through a thick wood, a tree had either fallen across the path, or been felled down purposely, so that it with its thick branches entirely blocked up the way. Herethe whole of my party were at a stand-still, and could not be prevailed upon to remove the tree so as to enable them to pass, declaring that the fetish had placed it there for a certain purpose, unknown to us. However, it was fortunately only a small tree; I therefore dismounted, and removed it sufficiently to allow us to pass. At this the men seemed somewhat ashamed of their credulity; but before we had proceeded much farther, a more formidable obstacle presented itself, which almost convinced me that some old fetish-man had been exerting his wizard powers to play me some unlucky cantrip. The head of a young bull, apparently newly cut off, was placed in the middle of the path. Upon a close inspection I found it to be the head of one of my own bullocks, which was reported sick the day previously to my marching from Abomey.
Nothing more worthy of notice occurred till we approached Whydah, when, at a little distance from that town, we met the men, who had driven my bullocks, returning. I asked them respecting it, and why the head was placed in the path. They replied, that as the animal could proceed no farther, they thought it best to kill it, anddispose of the meat in the most advantageous manner; but lest I should suppose the animal had not been dead, the head had been left in the path, to allow me the satisfaction of ocular demonstration.
Upon our arrival in Whydah, according to custom, I reported my return to the caboceer, or avoga, as he is called here, who received me very cordially. He then accompanied me to old Don Francisco, who had so kindly exerted his influence with the King on my behalf in furthering the objects of my travels into the interior. Unfortunately the old man was suffering much from rheumatism, and had for several days refused to see any one, but he readily received me. He cordially congratulated me on my success, declaring that nothing could have afforded him more gratification than the news of my grand and generous reception by the King at Abomey, and assuring me that he should be at all times ready to assist any Englishman by all means in his power. I asked him for a bill of the goods and articles he had furnished me for presents to the King; but as yet the generous old man has never furnished me with any, though they must havecost him about one hundred pounds. He also begged me to let him know how he could further serve me, telling me that anything in his extensive stores was at my service.
Owing to M. de Suza’s severe indisposition, I made but a short stay, and hastened to the English fort, where I found many old friends anxiously waiting to see me and welcome me back.Mr.R. Hanson, agent forMr.Hutton of Cape Coast, with whom I lived previously to my journey into the interior, gave me a very cordial welcome, and rendered me every assistance in his power, while suffering from fever, after my return to Whydah. I also received great kindness fromMr.James Hanson, of Ahguay, who was on business at Whydah, and, in fact, I experienced every mark of civility and kindness from the gentlemen, Americans, French, Spanish, and Portuguese, with whom I became acquainted during my residence in Whydah.
My state of health was but little better for some time, though the wound in my leg seemed to improve in condition. A few days after my return to Whydah, theJaneof London, Captain Lee, Commander, arrived in the roadstead, totake in goods forMr.Hutton. The captain had suffered much from fever but was now slowly recovering. To him I feel indebted for much kindness. He afforded me, with my stock of animals, a free passage to Cape Coast, for which place we were to sail on the 20th of September.
The day previous to my sailing, my old friend, De Suza, sent for me to bid me good-bye. He was very ill in bed, and scarcely able to speak. He begged me to let his agent know if I should be in want of anything from his stores, and assured me that whatever I might require was quite at my service. I was, however, already under so many obligations to him that I declined accepting anything further, but again asked him for my bill, with which he declined to furnish me.
At parting he shook me by the hand, and in a low whisper bade me a long good-bye, with every wish for my future happiness. I could not help feeling regret at that moment that such a man should be coupled with traffic so abominable as that of buying and selling human beings; for he universally bears the character of the most generous and humane man on the coast of Africa,which character I am also bound to give him so far as I am concerned.
Early on the morning of the 20th September, I went on board theJane;Mr.R. Hanson kindly rendering me every assistance, by furnishing carriers for my luggage and cattle to the beach which is distant two miles. The morning was unfavourable on account of the heavy rains. The little Mahee girl in my charge had never before seen the sea, and consequently felt much alarm. She could scarcely be urged to go into the canoe, though I told her she was going back to her Abomey mother, of whom she was very fond. Unfortunately the sea was very high and the surf heavy, and though the canoemen displayed great skill in managing their boat, yet a sea passed completely over us from bow to stern, filling it, which, but for the buoyancy of the wood of which it is formed, must have sunk. However, so long as the canoe can be kept end on the surf, the danger is not great. The canoes are all made from the cotton-tree.
The little girl, who was upon her knees in the bottom of the canoe, had certainly little cause to be pleased with a sea life, and is very likely toremember her first sea voyage for a long time. As soon as the little creature was able, for she was almost suffocated by the surf, she called out for her Abomey mother.
We soon got the water baled out and reached theJanewithout another washing. Captain Lee kindly offered me dry clothing, but the greater part of my luggage was not yet on board, consequently I remained on deck till all was safe, with the exception of a few articles which undoubtedly were stolen, but I may congratulate myself that I was not a loser to a greater extent.
The ship soon got under weigh, and was shortly afterwards boarded by H.M.S. BrigRanger, who kindly offered me medical aid. On the following day I had a severe attack of fever, but, through Captain Lee’s kind attention, I suffered comparatively little, though from so many recent attacks I was extremely weak and reduced in flesh. Our progress was very slow, owing to the foul winds and strong head currents. On the following day the boats of theFlying Fish, English war-brig, boarded us, and remained on board nearly the whole of the day, preparing letters for England, for which theJanewas shortly to sail.
On the 22d the brig herself bore down upon us. She was on a sharp look-out for a crack slaver, which was expected daily on her first trip, of which the commander had received private information. This vessel I afterwards learned was captured by theFlying Fish, in spite of the slaver’s boasted sailing qualities, and fighting captain, of whom they much vaunted, but they generally fall short when opposed to British (pirates, as the slave-dealers term them) ships-of-war.
On the 27th we anchored off Cape Coast Castle, and were soon recognised by the officers of the fort and other gentlemen merchants of the town, who are generally on the look-out for fresh arrivals. I was met upon landing by the officers of the garrison, andMr.Hutton, who had always been a very kind friend to me. The officers invited me to become an honorary member of their mess, though all but one were entire strangers to me, having been changed during my absence from Cape Coast. I returned, however, to my old quarters withMr.Hutton, where every attention and kindness were shown me during the remaining time I was on the coast, during the last fewweeks of which I suffered much from fever and ague, accompanied with diarrhœa, which nearly terminated my earthly career. During this latter period I was invited into the Castle by the acting governor,Dr.Lilley, who was also Colonial Surgeon.
I was there under his immediate treatment, which was no doubt beneficial, though I found that the use of strong medicines acted powerfully upon my constitution, and therefore determined to be guided entirely by the dictates of nature. My attacks were both violent and frequent; every second day for some time, the interval gradually increasing. As soon as I found the ague about to commence I lay down and covered myself with as many clothes as I could obtain, and so soon as the shivering ceased, of course violent fever succeeded, accompanied with intolerable thirst. I always arranged to have a quantity of water placed near my bedside; and generally drank half-a-pint every five minutes. Thirteen or fourteen half-pints generally produced copious perspiration, and the fever soon decreased. The only effect I experienced from numerous repetitions of this treatment was weakness, probablyfrom excessive perspiration. I would never recommend bathing in cold water while subject to attacks of fever and ague, as I found by a series of experiments in my own person: it is very likely to strengthen the fever and ague. I make no pretensions to advise medically, but merely state facts from personal experience, considering it a duty to my fellow-creatures, to state anything which might be beneficial to mankind while in that pestilential climate.
I must not omit to mention the kindness of the Rev. T. B. Freeman, and other members of the Wesleyan mission established on the coast, and also of the Rev. William Hanson, the Colonial chaplain, as well as his amiable lady. I owe a debt of gratitude to the whole of the merchants on the coast, whether native or British, for I experienced the utmost kindness from all of them; and although I have been bound to speak unfavourably of the uncivilized African, it must be remembered that all barbarous nations are similar as far as regards honesty and industry. I trust, however, that no uncharitable conclusion may be drawn from the plain statement of facts which fell under my own observation. Itis void of all prejudice, for my belief is that were Africans educated, and their morals properly attended to, they would become an example to countries who have for centuries enjoyed the advantages of civilization. To many of them I must confess myself under considerable obligations, which I shall ever remember with feelings of gratitude; though I am convinced, that a partial education, by merely reading the Scriptures, (unaccompanied by any school-books, such as books of history or mechanics,) more particularly when the meaning is not thoroughly explained to them in their own language, is of comparatively little benefit.
Our missionaries have no doubt many difficulties to contend with: first, because the English language is entirely new to the natives, so that besides learning to pronounce the words, they have also to learn the meaning of each word. Another drawback is, that when out of school the greater part of the children are mixed up with the uneducated population, and never use the English language except when in school. They are also exposed to every vice in practice, so that in many instances apartial education is only the means of enabling them to become more perfect in villany.
I cannot help thinking that if missionary schools were situated in some healthy situation at a little distance from the towns, and schools of industry were established in conjunction with them, the most beneficial results would follow. The boys intended to become mechanics should be selected according to their abilities, and be allowed to make choice of their trade. The school would in a short time support itself, and the variety of occupations would relieve the monotony of instruction in one branch of education alone.
At present, when the young men have obtained an imperfect education, that is to say, a knowledge of reading and writing, with a slight knowledge of figures, they consider themselves of too much importance to accept a menial employment, and being unacquainted with any trade, their first object is to seek to become agents or clerks to our European merchants, the number of whom are comparatively few, and employment consequently cannot be given to many. In many instances these parties obtain goods on credit, either fromthe resident merchants or from the American trading captains, and then consider themselves to be great men, and that they must keep up an establishment, which they frequently do, considerably beyond their means. The result of this is, that in a short time they find themselves involved in debt beyond any chance of redemption. The value of the goods is then soon squandered away, and the would-be merchant is compelled to retire into the bush, or to some other place of secrecy, where the rest of his life is spent in swindling and villany.
Before concluding my Narrative I would make a few observations upon the manners and customs of the Dahoman, Mahee, and Fellattah countries, with the amendments made in his own territories by the present intelligent and generous King of Dahomey. The most important of these is the abolition, in a great measure, of human sacrifices. These are now only tolerated in the execution of culprits condemned to death for offences of the gravest character. The King has entirely abolished the power of his caboceers to make human sacrifices, and only allows them to sacrifice the loweranimals. Next I may mention his entire revision of the criminal as well as petty laws of his kingdom; and the establishment of a court of appeal at Abomey in cases of dissatisfaction or injustice. The King has also much improved the condition of the Dahoman army. The whole of the Mahee country is now subject to Dahomey.
The Dahomans are generally a fine intelligent race of people, both the male and female. Guinea worm, or elephantiasis, does not exist in either the Dahoman, Mahee, or Fellatah countries. The average height of the Dahoman males is about five feet nine inches, and they are well proportioned. They are much more industrious than the natives of Whydah, or other parts on the coast, and are good farmers, and take much care in rearing stock. There are several Moors resident in Abomey, but whether voluntarily or not, I was unable to learn; but should suppose they were originally prisoners, from the fact of their refusing information respecting their migration. In fact, individuals from all the tribes of Central Africa may be found in Abomey.
The trade of Dahomey is chiefly in palm-oil.Ivory is seldom brought to the coast, except when smuggled, owing to the heavy duty imposed upon it. The manufactures are limited, cloth being the only article; but they excel in that article. The kingdom of Dahomey is chiefly level; the soil rich red loam; and, except in the immediate vicinity of the capital, tolerably well watered. Gold is as abundant there as in the Ashantee country, but, owing to the slave-trade, it is seldom inquired after.
The kingdom of Dahomey originally extended no farther in a northern direction than the river Zoa, or Lagos, between the seventh and eighth degrees of north latitude. In marching in a north-easterly direction from Abomey, the first of the Kong Mountains is situated in latitude 8° 20ʹ north, and extends in the same direction as far as 9° 30ʹ, although mountains of less magnitude are met with of the table form, at intervals, as far as 13° 6ʹ north.
The Mahee people are lighter in colour than the Dahomans, and are very active and hardy, lively in their disposition, but said to be very revengeful; although, as I was under the patronage of the King, I did not observe any thingin their characters which manifested this. The females are considerably smaller than those of Dahomey, and may be called rather good-looking, and, like the Dahomans, are very chaste; though, as in the former country, polygamy is tolerated to any extent. They are all Pagans here, as well as in Dahomey. Though many Mohamedans are to be found in the army of the latter, they are never interfered with in their religious opinions.
Formerly the government of the kingdom of Dahomey was despotic, still the country has a much more civilized appearance than the petty states under republican governments, which are generally involved in disputes and wars.
The Mahees appear to be a distinct people, independently of the difference of colour. The general formation of their head differs considerably from others. It is generally elongated from the ear backwards, and the philoprogenitive organ is very prominent. The frontal bone is seldom divided, and in many instances the upper part of the skull, as I have previously stated, is without any division whatever; but this is also the case in the Dahomans.
The chin of the Mahees is generally shorterthan that of the Dahomans, or people near the coast; their lips are not so thick; their teeth are very good, and they take great pains in cleaning them, which is generally the case on the whole of the west coast, where it is a universal custom, when not otherwise employed, to brush the teeth with the end of what they term a chew-stick, generally a piece of the branch of the gwaba, about the length and thickness of a black-lead pencil. They consider that chewing this kind of wood prevents thirst. Probably, from the acid which it contains, it is superior to any other sort of tooth-brush.
On many parts of the west coast they sharpen the two front teeth in the upper jaw by filing, or grinding off the angles, so as to bring them to a narrow point. The Mahee and Fellattah skulls I found lighter and thinner than the Annagoos, or Dahomans, or those on the coast, many of the latter being as thick as half an inch in the hinder part of the skull, and of a spongy or porous nature. The nose of the Mahees does not partake in the slightest degree of the negro, but strongly resembles that of Europeans. They excel in their manufactures, which are composed of cloth, andknitted night-caps, made exactly on the same principle as in England. They are also clever in the manufacture of iron, and are well acquainted with native dyes.
The natives, both of Dahomey and Mahee, are very temperate. They are excellent cooks. Their dishes are generally soups, containing various vegetables, amongst which is a gelatine pod of an oblong form, called occro. This is considered very strengthening. I believe it might be cultivated in Great Britain. It grows on a plant very much resembling the stramonium. Their fermented drink is peto, a native beer, which I have already described. They attain a greater age than in flat, low countries; and are very industrious in comparison with many neighbouring countries. The King of Dahomey enforces cultivation over all his dominions.
The general composition of the Kong Mountains, occupied by the Mahees, is granite, limestone, marble, and iron-stone. On the plains or valleys I found, protruding above the surface, large masses of fused iron mixed with round pebbles. Several fragments I broke off, which were nearly as heavy as the pure ore. The outsideof these masses had a glazed appearance. From the north to the south side this chain of mountains does not exceed forty-five or fifty miles. The principal animals occupying the Kong Mountains I have already noticed.
The Fellattahs are a different race to either the Dahomans or Mahees. They are a more warlike people than the Mahees; are light and active in their movements, very courageous, but also revengeful and stubborn, though I have been informed, that in a body they cannot fight a losing battle. They are much intermixed with other tribes, and hold great sway, occupying a very extensive territory, supposed to extend from eight degrees west longitude to Bornou, and also a considerable distance north and south. The real Fellattahs are much darker than the Mahees, with high square frontal bone and well-proportioned head, in general; hair, thick and woolly. They are more civilized and ingenious than the Mahees or Dahomans, and are also good farmers.
Even the system of drainage has found its way to this remote region, many of their indigo fields being well drained, as also those in the Mahee country. Their trade is not very extensive, beingchiefly confined to their own locality, and is generally a system of barter, though cowries and cloth are the general currency of the country. Their mode of living is much the same as in the Mahee country but they use less hogs’ flesh, and they eat both horses and dogs, and also several species of serpents, frogs, and guanos.
I sailed from Cape Coast for England in February, 1846. Previous to my going on board, I had many little presents sent me, both in the shape of sea-stores and keepsakes, from the merchants and natives in their employment, as well as from the resident Missionaries. I also received some little necessaries from a party of Missionaries who visited Cape Coast on their way to the Calabar, or Bonny River, in one ofMr.Jamieson’s ships; I believe one of them wasMr.Waddel. Our vessel was theAlbionof Guernsey, a small schooner of only one hundred and fifty tons; in my precarious state of health, therefore, I was very uncomfortable.
After leaving Cape Coast we called at Accra, and took on board some ivory and gold, remaining at the above place one day and a night. During this time I went on shore to visit some of my oldfriends, amongst whom wasMr.Bannerman, whose kindness and hospitality are well known, both to the naval and military officers who have ever visited that settlement. I was also kindly received by the resident Wesleyan Missionary.
Here I found an American Missionary and his wife, accompanied by the widow of a brother Missionary, lately deceased. Poor woman! she was apparently fast approaching to her long home. They were all in delicate health, and were passing down the coast for a change of air, but were obliged to leave the vessel.
During my stay I received extreme kindness and attention at the mission-house. I also called at the former residence ofMr.Hanson, a merchant lately deceased. His brother, the Chaplain of Cape Coast, andMr.R. Hanson from Whydah, were both there. From these gentlemen I experienced great kindness, both now as well as on former occasions. Here I again found my old charger, who had carried me during my long journey in the interior. He was now the property of the Rev. William Hanson, and had only arrived a few days before from Whydah. It had probably been taken little care of, for the poor animal wasmuch reduced in flesh. It recognised my voice, and when I spoke, it immediately neighed and pawed the ground, anxious to come to me.
Mr.Hanson, its owner, asked me to put a pair of fore-shoes on it, remarking that it was the last act of kindness I should ever have an opportunity of bestowing upon the noble little animal. This I readily assented to: after which I proceeded on board, when we immediately set sail for England; where, after a tedious and uncomfortable passage of three months, we arrived. I had much improved in health during the passage, though my accommodation was bad, for I was obliged to sleep on deck during six weeks of the time, owing to the suffocating smell from the heated corn, amongst which some of the palm-oil puncheons had burst.
RANGE OF THE THERMOMETER,
As observed in Dahomey from June 11 to July 7, 1845.
THE END.
LONDON:R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.