CHAPTER III

Moirs’ BuildingsCHAPTER IIIPerth—Public Buildings—Yacht Clubs—Government House—Recreation Ground—Lovely Perth Park—“Bond or Free.”

Moirs’ Buildings

Perth—Public Buildings—Yacht Clubs—Government House—Recreation Ground—Lovely Perth Park—“Bond or Free.”

And now for Perth, the capital city of the Golden West. As I remember it on my last arrival, after my memorable journey across the sand plains, it was a very sleepy little town. Now it is a handsome and prosperous city, with noble buildings on all sides, electric light, tramcars, beautiful parks around it, and yachts dancing on the broad waters of the Swan river. Perth is beautifully situated, and one cannot fail to be charmed with its picturesque and lovely surroundings.

Swan River, Perth

Perth on a Spring day presents a charming and animated picture. Boats and steamers ply across Perth Water to and from South Perth on the other shore, whileblack swans, which are to be seen in hundreds, are much admired by the many visitors. The pretty villas, shrubberies and trees, the old mill at the Point, and Mount Eliza lifting above everything its smiling face perfectly ablaze with gorgeous wild flowers of every colour, all help to give charm to the scene. St. George’s Terrace, the principal fashionable street, is nearly two miles in length and planted with shady trees. The Council have also lately had lemon-trees put in, with the idea, I suppose, of presently raising a crop of lemons. The golden fruit growing along the street will be something novel, but not, perhaps, financially profitable, since in the hot summer time it will offer rather a temptation to small boys who may have a leaning towards lemon squash. Russell Square will, in course of time, be as fine a public ground as any in Western Australia. A great day of tree-planting recently occurred there. Mr. Randall, Minister of Education, and the Mayor of Perth, assisted by some of the city fathers, planted the first trees: the rest were set by the school children, who had been invited to attend. Many beautiful Westralian, tropical, and sub-tropical trees will in future throw their grateful shade over this fine square.

HAY STREET, PERTH

Many handsome public buildings have lately been erected in Perth: Moirs’ Buildings, Prince’s Buildings, the Bank of New South Wales, De Baun’s Hotel, the Esplanade Hotel, and the new Public Works Offices would do credit to any city in the world. The Town Hall, which, although an imposing-looking building, is old, will shortly be removed, the Government having been offered a very large sum for the site, which is one of the most important in Perth, and very valuable. A new Town Hall will, accordingly, rise in some quieter part of the city. The Post Office is a fine building in the French Renaissance style. Then there are the Mines Department Offices, the Mechanics’ Institute, with its large hall for entertainments, and St. George’s Hall; Cremorne Gardens, where in the hot weather people take their amusements in the open air while smoking and otherwise refreshing themselves; there is afine theatre in Hay Street, and another will shortly be erected in Barrack Street; across the bridge we come to the Victoria Public Library, a splendid stone building recently built, with an excellent library of 28,000 books and pamphlets. The Museum adjoins it, and contains valuable specimens of all the minerals of the colony, as well as biological and botanical samples. The Railway Station and Offices form a fine block of buildings, and an overhead railway is shortly to be started. There are some very large churches, Trinity Church, St. George’s Cathedral, and Wesley Church, in connection with which the new Queen’s Hall and the fine block of buildings adjoining it have been erected. The Roman Catholic Cathedral, an imposing structure on the hill overlooking the city, has on Sundays a very large congregation. The Bishop’s Palace and Convent are near it. Not far off is the Hospital, which is a credit to Perth, not only on account of the arrangements, which are excellent, but on account of the kindness, skilfulness, and attention received by the patients. It is most highly spoken of by all who have ever been its inmates. The Royal Mint is a new and handsome building, recently opened and Western Australia can now coin its own gold into sovereigns, instead of sending it to Melbourne, as was formerly done.

Perth Railway Station

Perth, having such a broad river, has also several very fine yachts and rowing clubs. The Swan River Rowing Club is one of the oldest institutions, and has not only a splendid new boathouse, whose accommodation and appointments excel those of any other on this side of the continent, but also the newest racing-skiffs procurable and handsome sailing-boats. TheClub also has splendid gymnastic appliances, of which the members avail themselves largely. The Club’s rowing prowess has earned the distinction of being “at the head of the river.” The Royal Perth Yacht Club also has a spacious club-house by the riverside, and the many white-winged yachts that form the flotilla are a pretty sight when sailing on the broad bosom of the Swan.

Government House is a very handsome residence, its towers and colonnade giving it a most picturesque appearance, and the grounds, though small, are very beautiful; they slope gently down to the river by a series of terraces, and contain many rare plants and shrubs.

The Recreation Ground is quite close to the city. It is well laid out, and on holiday afternoons the cricket and football clubs indulge in their favourite sport, under the sunny skies and genial air that render open-air existence so delightful in Perth. A mimic fleet moored in the river faces the ground. This fleet belongs to the Royal Perth Yacht Club, whose club-boathouse is here. At the upper part is the bowling-green, where the gentlemen of Perth who have passed their first youth take their favourite exercise. Many ladies are to be found there on a fine afternoon, for the club members are very gallant and always have nice afternoon tea and its accessories for their lady visitors. The Cricket Association possess a very fine ground, covering fourteen acres, at the other end of the town, near the Causeway.

Melville Water

It is only recently, since Western Australia has made such remarkable strides, that the now lovely Perth Park has been appreciated. A few years ago it was nothing but wild bush, and though, of course, the view was just as good as it is now, few people ever cared to toil up the sandhills to the top of the Mount in order to see it. You can now go by tram, and a transformation has taken place. The park is surrounded by a fence, and has been laid out in paths and gardens, while pretty summer-houses have been built; it is five miles in circumference, and on the west side are numerous villas, gardens, and good roads.The observatory, near the entrance gate, forms an imposing landmark. Standing at this point a magnificent panorama is spread before you. The city of Perth lies at your feet, while far away in the distance the noble Swan river winds its way to Fremantle and Guildford. You feel as if you are almost up in the clouds looking down at the lovely scene of the earth beneath. Going along the broad drive you come to the highest pavilion on the summit of the Mount. Perth Water, with the boat-sheds and their many boats and yachts, and little steamers plying across to South Perth, lies like a jewel below. At the foot of the Mount are situated the Infirm Old Men’s Depôt and the splendid Swan Brewery. The road continues on, and we soon begin to go down the incline, where another still finer view looms in the distance. Crawley Park and the residence of Sir George Shenton are at the foot, the point standing sharply out of the blue water. Across the river is Melville Park. The scene is so exquisite that one cannot bear to go on, but must pull up the horse and stop for a few minutes, that the mind may drink in the sight. I have seen many beautiful places in the other colonies, and in New Zealand; but the view from Mount Eliza ona spring morning in the season of blossom, when every wild bush is ablaze with flowers, is a sight never to be forgotten. I felt I must stay for a while and gather some of the beautiful and quaint wildflowers, which are far more varied than any I had ever before seen. I found afterwards that by doing so I had transgressed the law, but, being a stranger, hope for forgiveness. Besides the flowers that grow in native profusion, many species have been transplanted from other parts of the colony. Young eucalyptus and tica folia, trees which are indigenous to the Albany district, and bear a handsome scarlet flower, have been planted on both sides of the road, and will in time form an avenue.

Many kinds of trees and flowers abound, the callistemon, with its brilliant scarlet plumes; the petrophila, with its exquisite velvety softness; banksias, honeysuckles, verticordias, with their lemon-centred foliage; the beautiful snowflake flower; the sweet-smelling, rich yellow hibbertia; the pretty blue gardenia, the lovely lilac hibiscus, or native tulip, fringed lilies, satin flowers, and others too numerous to particularise, form a picture so strikingly beautiful that I shall never forget the magnificent scene of green hills and flowery dales, country and town, blue sky and opal water, stretching far and wide. Terraces have been formed, and paths wind their way down the hill to the lower road. Here and there are rustic seats, where visitors can rest and enjoy the splendid view, and there are, of course, tea-houses, where you can enjoy the cup that cheers, or regale yourself with other refreshments. Rockwork, grass plots, and all kind of flowering plants add to the natural beauty of the spot. From the highest pavilion a really superb view of the city and surrounding country is seen on all sides. Steamboats are going merrily through the Narrows to the famous and beautiful Melville Park. In the background, the Darling Ranges loom grandly; in fact, the view is a magnificent panorama that could never be justly described by pen. Sir John Forrest and the members of the Park Board deserve the hearty thanks of the people for theimprovements made to this lovely spot in so short a space of time. Perth has now settled down and become quite a quiet city again, whereas a few years ago, when the gold fever was at its height, the state of the town was very different. Then the excitement was tremendous. The talk everywhere was of nothing but gold; wherever one went gold was the universal topic, and one scarcely met a person who did not exhibit a nugget or some gold dust, or who had not specimens in hand—received from persons interested, who expected to make fortunes, and, indeed, in many cases did so—of gold in quartz, or of some other stone from one of the different “shows,” as they were called.

PERTH WATER

Western Australia was once a convict settlement, and every stranger who came to the country had to conform to the country’s laws. The term “sandgroper” means white native; another term used here is “straight hair,” given in the early days by the free inhabitants to the convicts, on account of always having their hair cropped short. Thirty years ago any one walking in the streets of Perth after 10P.M.took his chance of being arrested for the night. The constables on their beats invariably threw out the challenge, “Bond or free?” and unless the person so challenged could answer to the complete satisfaction of Constable X.Y.Z., he was marched off to the Waterside lock-up. A well-known citizen was challenged by a newly appointed officer. “Halt! Bond or free?” “Free,” answered the pedestrian. “Your name?” “Churchyard.” “Ah, that’s not good enough,” said the officer incredulously; “who ever heard of a person of that name before? You’ll have to come along.” After a deal of explanation the minion of the law rather reluctantly let the citizen proceed on his way. A few yards further along he challenged another man, who gave the name of “Snowball.” This name was too much for the new policeman, who remarked that he was foolish to let the other fellow go, for who ever heard of such names before? Explanations, though freely offered, would not be accepted by the officer, whotriumphantly marched a well-known and reputable citizen to the police-station under the belief that he was some desperate criminal on a midnight excursion. It was not until the prisoner was identified at the station that he was permitted to go home. All this is now changed in Western Australia, the only convicts who are now alive being a few old people whose terms have expired and who are now inmates of charitable homes.

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