Fremantle PierCHAPTER VIDrive to Claremont—Osborne—Keane’s Point—The Chine—Cottesloe—The Ocean—North Fremantle—Arthur’s Head—Smelting Works—Our Contingent—Fremantle.
Fremantle Pier
Fremantle Pier
Drive to Claremont—Osborne—Keane’s Point—The Chine—Cottesloe—The Ocean—North Fremantle—Arthur’s Head—Smelting Works—Our Contingent—Fremantle.
One bright morning I started to drive from Perth to Fremantle, a distance of twelve miles. Taking the lower road around Mount Eliza, a beautiful prospect lay before me. The Mount rises 200 feet above the road, which is only a little way from the broad river; the sun shone on Melville Water in the distance, while on the other side lay the Canning river, with trees and hills beyond. The pretty suburb of South Perth on its arm of land, with the old mill at the extreme end; the many little boats and steamers going to and fro, made a charming summer-day’s picture. Along the road past Perth Park we saw the blue and silvery water all the time, and then, when we came to Crawley, we entered a road fenced on each side. Valuable land is placarded for sale, and no doubt in course of time will become even more valuable. Already streets have been laid out for a suburb, which, being so beautifully situated, will be charming to live in. After a pretty drive of six miles we reached the fashionable suburb of Claremont, where there are some very elegant villas and mansions. A mile farther on is Osborne, the most magnificenthotel and grounds in Western Australia. This fine building stands in large gardens and grounds, and is surrounded by splendid conservatories and terraces. There are wide balconies, arbours, and seats, and, in the matter of beauty, the place almost realises Claude Melnotte’s description of “a palace lifting to eternal summer.” It seems almost incredible that three years ago this exquisite spot was the abode only of the blackboy, banksia, and other native trees, and a shelter for the dusky son of the soil. Towering high above the hotel is a turret of spacious dimensions, from which the growing port of Fremantle, with many merchant vessels and steamships riding peacefully at anchor, may be clearly seen in the distance. The adjacent islands of Carnac, Garden, and Rottnest, with their rugged coast-lines, lashed by the surging waves of the ocean, are but a few miles distant. The clearness of the air gives a wonderful range of vision from the tower. As you turn, you behold in the distance the dark woodland of the Darling Ranges, whose summits seem to touch the sky. In the zenith of summer heat in Western Australia, Osborne is always delightfully shaded and cool.
An artesian well in the grounds, which struck water at a depth of 150 feet, gives an abundant supply, capable of supplying the whole of Perth. No less than 50,000 gallons of water are used every day on the grounds of Osborne alone. Steamers come to Osborne jetty during the week, and every Sunday in the summer, bringing hundreds of people to enjoy the scene. The steamer moors at a landing at the bottom of the cliff, and hundred of steps have to be climbed before the top is reached. The climb is made easy by a platform with seats at the end of every flight of steps, of which there are five, and one can rest on these to enjoy the pleasing prospect. Pretty villas are built all around the hillsides; dear little Freshwater Bay, with its numerous bathing-houses and jetties, the pretty yachts and boats on its bosom looking like white-winged birds, lies at your feet; and the wild note of the magpies, not yet frightened away by civilisation as theaborigines have been, is heard from the trees in the distance. Continuing our drive, we took the inner road up the hill. Another pretty little bay and suburb called Peppermint Grove, from the fact that at one time it was a grove of delicate peppermint-trees, discloses itself. There are many beautiful villas with gardens, a nice white, hard sandy beach, a fine jetty for the many boats that come from Perth and Fremantle, and the Yacht Club House. Keane’s Point, with a handsome old bungalow on a fine site, hides a bend of the river. The Chine, so called from its peculiar conformation, the ridge appearing like the backbone of an enormous whale or other gigantic sea monster, is another pretty spot. Any one who has the fortitude to climb to the top of the Chine will be rewarded by one of the most exquisite panoramic views of ocean, river, flower, shrub, sea and sky ever seen. The tints of the water from the reflection of the azure sky melting into pale yellow, then into rich gold and crimson from the setting sun, once seen will never be forgotten. Turning back, we resumed our drive up Forrest Street and into the main Fremantle Road. We were now in the seaside suburb of Cottesloe, and away over the hill lay the beautiful Cottesloe Beach, stretching along for miles. Cottesloe is one of the most flourishing suburbs of Perth. A few years ago it was all one dense bush; now it is full of human life, and houses are going up in all directions as fast as the builders can erect them. Past the quarries we went until a turn of the road brought us to a view so magnificent that its effect can never fade from my memory. In the distance the dark blue Indian Ocean rolled in all its majestic splendour; North Fremantle was in sight, and so was the mouth of the Swan river. We approached the bridge to cross it, and saw an effect even more beautiful. From the bridge on which we stopped a few minutes in order to gaze on this gorgeous scene we saw many fine ships lying at anchor on the broad ocean; up the river many small boats and steamers were moored; in the distance were white cliffs and pretty houses; the magnificent German steamer, theFriedrich derGrosse, was just going out to sea—and altogether the scene was truly a grand one. I hope I shall not be thought to rhapsodise too much, but I can assure my readers that I am writing exactly as I felt when first viewing the approach to Fremantle.
FRESHWATER BAY, CLAREMONT
FRESHWATER BAY, CLAREMONT
When the new harbour is finished, Fremantle will be, as Sir John Forrest puts it, the Brindisi of Australia. And now we crossed the bridge and entered East Fremantle, leaving behind us the broad river winding its way to the ocean between two splendid breakwaters.
On we drove down Cantonment Road into High Street, the principal thoroughfare, at the top of which is the fine Town Hall with its splendid clock. From that point the street runs to Arthur’s Head, and is connected by a tunnel with the sea; on the top of the limestone cliff is an old building called the Old Cantonment, formerly used as a lock-up. Fremantle is built on a low-lying neck of land between Arthur’s Head on the one side and the limestone heights on the other, hemmed in on one hand by the river and on the other by the sea. The city was named after Captain Fremantle, who first hoisted the British flag there, in 1829.
There is a fine lighthouse on Arthur’s Head. It is a white stone tower 71 feet high, with a fixed white light, visible for 16 miles. Fremantle still possesses some old and singular-looking buildings. The old gaol and court-house, with the harbourmaster’s quarters and the barracks, will, no doubt, in course of time be replaced by more up-to-date structures; there are already many very fine new buildings. Fremantle has an excellent Grammar School, where most of the boys from Perth and the country districts receive their education. Mr. G. Bland Humble, the present worthy and respected Town Clerk of Fremantle, was the first master, having been brought from England in 1886 to teach the young idea of Western Australia how to shoot.
There are many good hotels, the Hotel Fremantle being the best at the city end of the town, and the Hotel Australia at the upper end. This latter is really a splendid hotel, standingin an excellent position, with a grand view of the river, harbour, and islands beyond. The jetty is half a mile long, and some large vessels are always lying there.
Fremantle is rapidly increasing in size and population, and social life is not so divided as in Perth; there seem to be more geniality and not so much stiffness about the people. A volunteer artillery corps, turf, bicycle, rowing, cricket, and football clubs provide various forms of social activity. There is a nice park, also a good recreation-ground, and several places of entertainment, and the large hall in the Town Hall is very handsome and superbly decorated. An inexhaustible supply of water is obtained from three large wells connected by drives. The water is pumped up by steam into reservoirs at the rate of 45,000 gallons an hour.
The smelting works about two miles from Fremantle, at Owen’s Anchorage, have lately commenced working, and are a great boon to the goldfields, which until recently were very much handicapped by having to send their ore to the other colonies to be smelted.
NORTH FREMANTLE
NORTH FREMANTLE
The South African War is the general topic of the day, and with what sorrow do we read of the sacrifice of so many noble lives! Several contingents of our brave Australians have left the different parts of the colonies to assist their British brothers with a little of the courage we have in the Sunny South. The second contingent has just left these shores, and Fremantle has had the honour of giving them the send-off. Over 30,000 people assembled to bid them farewell, and a scene of such unbounded enthusiasm ensued as has never before been witnessed in the colony. The magnificent steamerSurreybrought the New South Wales and South Australian contingents, and these soldiers came in for their share of admiration no less than the Western Australians. The enthusiasm shown for the Western Australian contingent from the time they left the camp at Karrakatta until they waved their last good-bye from the steamer’s side will never be forgotten. The street decorations, although hurriedly got up, were handsome andpatriotic. At the Oval, where the reception to the troops was held, a huge marquee occupied considerable space, and rows of tables laden with every delicacy were provided for the troops and for the many distinguished visitors. Over 200 of the leading society ladies of Fremantle acted as waitresses, proud to attend on brave men soon to embark for the perils of war. Although the men were going away to face battle, all seemed jubilant, proud, and confident. The three contingents were all like brothers. The cries of the multitude were: “Cheers for the Cornstalks of New South Wales,” another for the “Gum-suckers of Victoria,” one for the “Crow-eaters of South Australia,” and “A great big one for Westralians; do your best, boys!”[1]At the wharf, prior to theSurreyleaving next day, somebody handed up a bottle of whisky, intending it for a Westralian trooper. A Cornstalk, however, became possessed of it. “That’s not for you, it’s for one of the Western Australians,” shouted the donor. “It doesn’t matter, we’re all alike, we’ll soon be Federated Australia,” laughed the Cornstalk, and opening the bottle took a drop, then handed it round to the rest, who all participated in it with real federal spirit. When the time came for the troopship to leave, some affecting scenes took place between mothers, sisters, wives and soldiers, but all bore up as bravely as possible. Were they not going for the glory of Old England and the honour of their beloved Queen?
A Bushmen’s contingent has since left all the colonies, comprising men who are accustomed to rough-riding and thoroughly used to rough life in most trying conditions. From what I know of many of the Bushmen I have met in my travels, I should say that they will afford the British troops valuable aid in reconnoitring the wily Boer.
As we all know, the Australians have since bravely distinguished themselves, and our late dearly beloved Queen testified her approval of their actions in many ways. Her lateMajesty’s gracious act of proposing that the Duke and Duchess of York should go so far in order to open the Federal Parliament of Australia endeared her still more, were that possible, to the hearts of her colonial subjects. As one of them who saw the late lamented Prince Edward and Prince George when they went out to Australia years ago in theBacchante, “I can testify to the unswerving loyalty and affection of Australians for our beloved Queen and all her family.”
HIGH STREET, FREMANTLE
HIGH STREET, FREMANTLE
And what a brilliant record our Western Australians, especially those of the first contingent, who have returned to Perth, have taken back with them! Truly they deserve the laurel-wreath of honour, while those who fell on the field of battle, giving up their lives for their beloved Queen and country, will live for all time in our hearts. I cannot do better, I am sure, than give Major McWilliams’ description (at the banquet given in Perth in honour of their return) of the way in which some Australians bravely distinguished themselves.
“Before closing, he desired to tell them a story about their entry into Pretoria. He thought it was an incident that all who participated in would remember to the last days of their lives. The hills around Pretoria were most strongly held by the enemy. Their mounted infantry, which included the 1st Western Australians, were ordered to take a hill. They climbed up the kopje, the horses being led behind them, and fought until relieved by the Gordon Highlanders. Their little band had to do the work of infantry, and the handful of men held the top of that hill, and kept the enemy at bay, until the Imperial troops appeared on the scene. The latter said: ‘This is our job now; you are mounted, and you will be required somewhere else.’ The colonials informally handed over the work to the Highlanders, and an order came from Colonel De Lisle to move back to the hills to outflank the enemy, if possible. They did so under a heavy fire, but the enemy, on seeing them, must have exaggerated their numbers, for they made off into Pretoria as fast as they could. The Western Australians followed, and on that night got within a thousand yards of Pretoria. Atthat time Lord Roberts’ main column was six miles in their rear. Their infantry decided to hold the position close to Pretoria until morning. During that night one of their number, a son of an esteemed resident of Perth—he referred to Captain Parker—was sent with a few men into Pretoria to blow up the line, and he certainly had the honour of being the first armed man to enter Pretoria. That, he thought, was a great thing to claim for a Western Australian. He might also state a fact not generally known, that the flag of truce on the night before was taken in by a New South Wales officer, an Australian born. This little company numbered less than one hundred men.”
TWO MORE COLONIAL VICTORIA CROSSES.TheGazetteof October 4 states that the King has been graciously pleased to signify his intention to confer the decoration of the Victoria Cross on Lieut. F. W. Bell, West Australian Mounted Infantry, and Farrier-Major W. J. Hardham, 4th New Zealand Contingent.At Brakpan, on May 16, 1901, when retiring through a heavy fire after holding the right flank, Lieut. Bell noticed a man dismounted, and returned and took him up behind him; the horse not being equal to the weight fell with them; Lieut. Bell then remained behind, and covered the man’s retirement till he was out of danger.Lieut. F. W. Bell is a Western Australian of the third generation. He was one of the handful of men who so distinguished themselves at Slingersfontein, when twenty-five members of the corps held a body of twelve times their number of Boers in check while the main body of troops—to which the corps was attached—and the guns retired.Near Faauwpoort, on January 28, 1901, Farrier-Major W. J. Hardham was with a section which was extended and hotly engaged with a party of about twenty Boers. Just before the force commenced to retire Trooper M’Crae was wounded and his horse killed. Farrier-Major Hardman at once went under a heavy fire to his assistance, dismounted, and placed him on his own horse, and ran alongside until he had guided him to a place of safety.Farrier-Major Hardham is a blacksmith, of Wellington, New Zealand.
TWO MORE COLONIAL VICTORIA CROSSES.
TheGazetteof October 4 states that the King has been graciously pleased to signify his intention to confer the decoration of the Victoria Cross on Lieut. F. W. Bell, West Australian Mounted Infantry, and Farrier-Major W. J. Hardham, 4th New Zealand Contingent.
At Brakpan, on May 16, 1901, when retiring through a heavy fire after holding the right flank, Lieut. Bell noticed a man dismounted, and returned and took him up behind him; the horse not being equal to the weight fell with them; Lieut. Bell then remained behind, and covered the man’s retirement till he was out of danger.
Lieut. F. W. Bell is a Western Australian of the third generation. He was one of the handful of men who so distinguished themselves at Slingersfontein, when twenty-five members of the corps held a body of twelve times their number of Boers in check while the main body of troops—to which the corps was attached—and the guns retired.
Near Faauwpoort, on January 28, 1901, Farrier-Major W. J. Hardham was with a section which was extended and hotly engaged with a party of about twenty Boers. Just before the force commenced to retire Trooper M’Crae was wounded and his horse killed. Farrier-Major Hardman at once went under a heavy fire to his assistance, dismounted, and placed him on his own horse, and ran alongside until he had guided him to a place of safety.
Farrier-Major Hardham is a blacksmith, of Wellington, New Zealand.