CHAPTER XIII.
Leave Gobard for Arabderah.—View of Lake Abhibhad from the ridge of San-karl.—General direction of march south, time occupied two and a-half hours.—March to Saggagahdah, general direction S.W., time marching an hour and a-half.—Meet Kafilah of Mahomed Allee.—Halt for the night.
April 18th.—We were on our march again by sunrise, Lohitu accompanying the party of the non-interested in the care of the camels, and who generally preceded them half an hour. Of this party, Ohmed Medina had assumed the leadership from the first day of his having joined, and I took care always to accompany him. We made a short bend towards the south, along a narrow water-cut channel, dark from the trees on every side closing their tops over our heads, and then ascended diagonally the steep, loose, stony face of the ridge of San-karl, forming the southern bank of the valley of Gobard. Having reached the top, Lohitu stopped suddenly to inform me that this height was the general place of assembly for all the tribes of the Dankalli, when combined in some military operation, against the Issah Soumaulee to the east, or the Assa-hemerah Muditu to the west. We were continuing our journeyalong the plain on the summit of this ridge, when the loud voice of Ohmed Mahomed calling after us, caused us to stop until he came up. On his near approach, he turned round, and with his hand directed my attention to a division very visible in the flat country to the north-west, which marked the course of the stream of the Hawash, and the valley of which, seemed to be not more extensive than that formed by the stream of the Gobard. I was, however, informed, that it was really much more extensive, and that an immense number of Bedouins inhabited the fertile district on each side of the river, for nearly two days’ journey before it bends round to the north of Owssa.
The precipitous termination of the flat country to the west of the Lake Abhibhad, was also very plainly seen over the tree-covered expanse, that marked the entrance of the Gobard, into that general recipient of the waters of Adal. A prominent feature of the scene also, on the opposite bank, of this stream, and to the immediate north-east of the lake, was the ridge of yellow gravelly soil, divided into numerous small denuded hills, that I passed along the morning before. On the south and west, the surrounding country was one wide stony plain, through which protruded numerous low dykes of lava, and at the distance of about twenty miles could be observed the summit of a single cone, called Jibel Obinoe, whilst in the opposite direction, towards Zeila and Tajourah,were a range of peaked hills, that formed the barrier between the Hawash and the sea, and the western face of which formed the water-shed of the Gobard river, flowing into Lake Abhibhad.
From the appearance and general character of the surrounding country, I concluded that the Abhibhad Lake occupied one of those numerous and extensive depressions, which, like large fissures, here intersect the otherwise level country of Adal, many of which are now filled up with the detritus of the ridges around, and the marly deposition from water, which, during the rains, collects in them. These fissures are in variable magnetic directions, but they never cross each other, and I saw evidence sufficient to satisfy myself, that at least in this neighbourhood, they form rays diverging from one common centre, which is very well marked by the severed summit of Obinoe.
After satisfying my curiosity with the excellent view of the country afforded by my situation, we proceeded on our journey. We soon descended into the bed of a small stream running into the Gobard, along the bottom of which the heavily-laden camels were now slowly winding their way, among numerous sweetly-smelling, white-blossomed mimosas, which scented the whole valley, and afforded a delicious banquet to the busy inhabitants of a natural bee-hive, so situated that to all honey-eating animals, save man, it was inaccessible. It occupied a small cave on the steepface of one of the precipitous cliffs which bounded the stream. In this narrow valley we passed several watering-places, where I would gladly have drank, but that every pool was occupied by two or three dirty Dankalli, who were busily washing and bathing themselves in the cool and refreshing water. No observation was made by our party at this pollution, for as there was here an extensive supply, my companions thought there was as much room for them, as for the numerous camels which now came up, and made their way into it, not so much to satisfy thirst, as to enjoy the walk through the water, and which they soon rendered a very thick solution of mud. This, however, was not undrinkable, as I found when, after a tiresome march over the stone-covered plain of Arabderah for at least three hours, we came to our halting-ground, and found all the pools dried up, so that the few skins which had been filled at Gobard and at this place were our only supply for the day, and for the first time during the journey, was I put upon an allowance of one saucepanful, which I had to divide with a number of thirsty companions.
During this march I became great friends with the Debenee Chief. Upon my giving a small paper packet, containing needles, to one of the Bedouins, in exchange for a dried goat-skin, Zaido asked me to purchase, to place under the saddle of my mule, Lohitu took the packet from the man, and opening it, looked at me with surprise for having paid sucha great price for my bargain. After saying a few words to the man, he only gave him three of the needles, and distributed what remained, by giving one each to the rest of the party, about a dozen being around us at the time. He kept three himself, placing them in the sheath of his very old and worthless dagger, among the ornaments of which, I noticed an old rusty pair of scissors, which he had thrust in between the thongs that secured it to his belt.
Lohitu was a very handsome man, with a high, noble forehead, well-formed nose and mouth, and but for a heavy look, occasioned by his thick, bushy eyebrows, would have realized my idea of a savage chief with whom I could have associated, honour and generosity; and even with the prejudice against the Bedouins I entertained, occasioned by the evidences of their sanguinary and deceitful character, which had come under my own notice, I still could only think well of this generally acknowledged brave and respected man, who was, without any qualification or jealousy of his excellence whatever, admitted to be the first man of all the combined tribes. Heaven only knows, how much blood it had been necessary to shed to produce this unanimity, but the tale of his having saved the life of the only Muditu who was spared in a recent engagement, was the solitary instance of the sort I ever heard of; for on occasions of their warfare, every conquered man, who is not able to save himself by flight, is most ruthlessly massacred by the victors,on purpose to add to the boasted numbers of slain, the grand total of which, constitute the only claim to individual eminence among the Dankalli tribes.
On the march to-day I gave Lohitu a ring, which I had put on my finger the first morning after our arrival at Ramudalee, for the purpose of presenting to this noted chieftain. It consisted of one large red cornelian, which had been cut by an Indian mechanic in Calcutta, where I purchased it, into a thick, showy ring, one well suited to the taste of such people of eminence among the savage tribes with whom I was now sojourning. Lohitu was exceedingly pleased with it, and wore it for that day, but whether he was really superior to the common feeling in such matters of adornment, or preferred the convenience of a little cash which Ohmed Mahomed offered to him for it, I do not know; but I heard after he had left us, that Ohmed Mahomed had the ring in his possession, and that he had given to Lohitu in exchange for it four dollars, or eight cubits of the blue Surat cloth. This latter is the only money current in Adal, one cubit in length of this Surat cloth, the full width of the piece, being in value half a dollar. It is neatly folded into a three-cornered packet, and the outer extremity is tucked into the middle, in such a manner as to secure the whole in that form.
Our halting-place was bare of everything but large flat stones of lava, that had evidently formed originally one thin but entire stratum, which, onexposure to the atmosphere, had separated into loose stones. These had become partially rounded at the edges, by continual denudation of wind and water, assisted by the alternation of heat and cold, arising from the different temperature of the several winds, which traverse this height, from the hot sandy plains of Zeila to the east, or the cooler surface of Lake Abhibhad to the west.
The curiously divided summit of Jibel Obinoe, a slight elevation above the generally very level table-land, was now visible in the south-west, and the hills which at Gobard bore towards the north, were now considerably more towards the north-east. The scene otherwise was similar to the one from San-karl, consisting of dark yellow plains, with black ridges of lava breaking through the surface, and no vegetation, except the dry unyielding grass, and a small prickly plant with blue flowers, which was the only food for the camels, this arid and stony country had to offer.
No Bedouins disturbed us here, nor was my evening’s meal of tasteless rice improved by presents of milk, and in desperation at such poor fare, I determined to have recourse to my cheese and sea-biscuit, upon which, after some time and difficulty, I managed to make my supper. Zaido and Allee joined me in this as in more tempting viands, and found some amusement in the excessive hardness of the biscuit, actually fracturing a long and dry leg-bone of a camel, plenty of which alwaysmarked the usual caravan halting-places, by employing it as a geological hammer to break what they called my “stone bread.”
A council was held during the whole day, a busy subject of discussion having apparently arisen, and I soon found, by Allee’s information, that a Kafilah of no friendly character was approaching, and that probably we should meet it to-morrow. As it was exceedingly strong, and its Ras had been very ill-treated and imprisoned when last in Tajourah, the leaders of our Kafilah were anxiously deliberating upon the probable consequences of a meeting, and were very earnest, I could see, in their endeavours to secure Lohitu to their cause. Ohmed Mahomed also in the evening came to see me, and asked if I would give Lohitu five dollars, to get some boxes belonging to the Embassy, that he asserted were detained in a neighbouring kraal. What with the information I had received from Allee, that the Ras of the Kafilah coming down was the Mahomed Allee who had taken the stores with Messrs. Bernatz and Scott to join the Political Mission in Shoa, and being aware also of the treatment, that division of the Embassy received in Tajourah, three of the servants being murdered in one night, I knew very well that the object of Ohmed Mahomed’s request for money, was not to get the boxes, but to bribe Lohitu to declare himself our friend, and reject accordingly any offer of the same kind that might bemade by Mahomed Allee, who, it was expected, would take this opportunity of retaliating. I, of course, consented, and this being accomplished, Ohmed Mahomed, to ingratiate himself also with the attendants of Lohitu, had a camel, that had been ailing many days, slaughtered, and a feast of raw meat, for want of water to cook it in, terminated the day. One party of the revellers who sat near my hut, I observed rolling up strips of the flesh, and stowing them away in their affaleetahs for a feast at the next halting-place, as the Dankalli certainly prefer the flesh of animals cooked, excepting the liver and other viscera, which are almost always eaten raw. This same party had also come in for the backbone in their share, and after the fleshy parts had been stript off and preserved for a better opportunity of cooking, the assembled circle very fairly, and with much brotherly love, sent the raw juicy bone round, each one taking a fair chop at it with his heavy dagger, and then making a good strong pull at the almost detached piece with his teeth. In this manner they soon cleared and divided the bone, and each one then possessed himself of a single vertebra to look over, and finish his repast, which did not conclude until every bit of the cartilage had been torn off and eaten.
Tuesday, April 19.—Started at sunrise, and left Arabderah with Lohitu, Moosa, Adam Burrah, and a number of others. Ohmed Medina and Garahmee were absent, having returned to Gobardin search of the mule belonging to the former, which had strayed during the night. The western portion of the plain of Arabderah is much less stony than the eastern, and the ground was covered with little shallow depressions of dried clay, the residium of evaporated water. The country of Owssa is visible from that point, where we leave the elevated plateau, and descend into the valley-plain to the south. The prolongation of the height of Arabderah towards the north-west is called Dulhull, and forms the southern border of the Abhibhad Lake.
This morning I rode upon my mule, as my boots were getting much the worse, for walking over the rough and stony road we had travelled along. Lohitu was very reserved, walking nearly all the way by my side without speaking a word, except in answer to me, when I sought to know the names of different places we passed. However, on the other side of me there was plenty of noise, for the Bedouins who accompanied us were walking in two lines of five or six in a row, and amusing themselves with singing alternately extempore stanzas, in which my name, “Ahkeem,” and that of Lohitu very frequently occurred. One or two of them occasionally, broke out of the line to touch my knee with the butt-end of their spears, when they wished me to listen, more particularly to something or other that related to myself, and that I might be aware that what they were saying was a compliment. Simple-mindedpeople! to what excellence might not education raise them! Their great natural abilities, now only developed in the commission of crime, if only properly cultivated, would, I am convinced, lead to a national character as extreme for good as it now is, unfortunately, for evil.
We thus marched for about two hours, having descended, almost immediately after the start, a rough, stony, but gentle declivity from the lava-strewn plateau of Arabderah, to the wide and extensive fissure-plain of Sagagahdah. We were now suddenly halted by a gesture of Lohitu, who pointed with his spear into the mirage, that seemed to fill with water the whole upper or western end of the plain, on the edge of which, but on the distant opposite side, we could see two horsemen coming at full speed towards us. We had stood but a very few minutes, when Ebin Izaak, on his mule, came gallopping up, and calling to me, as I thought, to follow him, passed us as fast as he could go in the direction to meet the new comers. Just as I was pushing my slow mule into an attempt to gallop, Ohmed Mahomed, who came running up, called out to me to remain, and, as I did not exactly understand him, Lohitu caught hold of my bridle and made signs for me to dismount. I soon learnt that our halting-place for the day had been determined upon, immediately the approaching Kafilah had come into sight, and already, a little in the rear, our camels were being unloaded.