CHAPTER XVII.
Staying at Herhowlee.—Dankalli sell their female children for slaves.—Pillar of sand and cloud of fire indications of rain.—Engage escort of thirty Hy Soumaulee. Comparison between modern Dankalli and ancient Blemmyes.—April 26th, Journey from Herhowlee to Barradudda, general direction S.S.W.; time marching two hours.—Description of halting-place.—Religious discussion with Ohmed Medina.
April 24th.—A beautiful morning, air fresh and cool, and I was disappointed at there being no start. We were staying, I believe, to give the camels a rest. All this day I kept in my hut amusing myself by projecting a map from the information I had received of the surrounding country, including Owssa and the lakes of the Hawash. On showing it to Ohmed Medina for his confirmation of the particulars, he was much pleased with the attempt, and begged me to make a copy for him. This map quite restored me to his good opinion, as to the extent of my knowledge, which had been somewhat shaken by my ignorance of the vegetable, he had gathered for me the day before, and which turned out to be most excellent. I should observe, that I have since learnt that itis the common Barjee of Indian bazaars, and Ohmed Medina was quite right therefore in the statement he made of its being a favourite food of the Banyans, and it indicated no little observation on his part, to have noticed that circumstance.
Garahmee to-day left us to pay a short visit to his family, who lived in a kraal some miles to the north, in the direction of Owssa. As he expected a present upon the occasion, I gave him a couple of coloured handkerchiefs for his two wives. It is very seldom that a Dankalli Bedouin has more than one help-mate; but Garahmee, making great pretensions to a godly life, like a pious Mahomedan, had added another wife to his establishment. The precepts of his religion being so far practised, his virtue was rewarded, by the profit arising from the sale of his more numerous offspring; having just been to Tajourah, to conclude a bargain for his youngest and only remaining daughter. He had on previous occasions disposed of two elder ones, and before he left Herhowlee, he came to me again and offered for three dollars, to bring me the daughter of some friend who, he said, had one to dispose of, but I have no doubt, he intended to steal the girl, had I consented to the business.
To-day I witnessed a very interesting proof of the great similarity between the climate and physical character of this country, and that through which Moses led the Israelites in their flight from Egypt. About noon, a sudden stir among theKafilah people, induced me to leave my hut to see what could be the matter; every one was running about for mats and skins, with which they covered in a great hurry the heaps of salt-bags, that surrounded the encampment. Those who had charge of the stores of the Embassy, were equally busy in protecting the boxes and packages, from a storm which was fast approaching, for on looking towards the east I saw, with astonishment, the sky in that direction quite dark, with one vast cloud of wind, and the red sand borne up before it. Its rotary motion was very evident, although the whirlwind, as it really was, was too large and too near to be seen distinctly as a separate body, which it might have been at some little distance. It advanced towards the camp at the rate of about ten or twelve miles an hour, but as numbers were now shouting to me to get under cover, and I did not know exactly what effects to anticipate, I made a dive into my hut, and wrapping my head and face up in my handkerchief to prevent inhaling more of the fine sand than could be avoided, I awaited the result. In a few moments afterwards, the strength of the wind passed over us, whirling the roof of my hut, along with the mats covering the salt, high up in the air, and scattering them far and wide over the plain. The heavy stones that had been placed upon them to prevent such an occurrence being rolled off, sometimes upon the prostrate Kafilah men, who lay under the sides of thesalt heaps, which they had hoped would have served as a kind of shielding from the blinding and choking sand. A few drops of rain, and some distant claps of thunder, accompanied this phenomenon. In a few minutes, the sky clearing, the short silence of the camp gave way to a burst of shouting and laughing, as the people chased the retiring column, in pursuit of their flying mats and ropes. I got out of my retreat, and saw moving towards the west, an immense pillar of sand, reaching from earth to heaven, in form and size exactly like the huge water-spouts I have seen out at sea, off the island of Ceylon.
On asking Ohmed Medina respecting these sand spouts, and whether they were common in Adal, he told me, that sometimes twenty or thirty of them, might be seen at once upon extensive plains which admitted of their formation, and added, that they were always accompanied by rain, and with the sheet lightning in the horizon by night, and that these signs, directed the Bedouins to situations, where they would not fail to find water for their flocks. This was a most interesting fact for me to learn, evidently proving, as it does, that the goodness of heaven was not especially devoted to the comfort and happiness of the Israelites alone, as with some little national vanity, and more ignorance of natural phenomena, these people have ascribed the presence of the pillar of a cloud by day, and the pillar of fire by night, to be, imagining them tohave been solely created for the purpose of directing them in their wanderings through the wilderness. We find, however, that in Adal the same benevolence has there provided for the Dankalli Bedouin, similar indications for his convenience, in a country where water is only occasionally found. Moses, very properly led the Israelites to believe these signs to be, as they really are, miracles of mercy exerted in the behalf of man, and which still prove, as in the time of that great leader, that the hand of God is always stretched over his creatures, to preserve them in situations, where otherwise, they would be exposed to great privations.
All the evening, Ohmed Medina and Ohmed Mahomed were engaged in a great council; the men of Herhowlee and of the Kafilah, forming one great circle, between the village and our encampment. Immediately on our arrival the best understanding had been established between us, and after the first surprise occasioned by my appearance had worn away, I was received by the inhabitants of the village, on the same familiar terms as other people of the Kafilah, and sometimes visited them in their houses. Here medicine was in great demand, and frequently asked for in exchange, for the milk and butter which were offered.
The cause of the calahm this evening I found, was the circumstance becoming known to our Ras ul Kafilah, that a serious quarrel existedbetween the Hy Soumaulee and the Wahama, the next tribe on our route to Shoa. As the treatment of Mahomed Allee, who was a Wahama, when last in Tajourah, had been exceedingly unfriendly, his tribe had determined to resent it, and threatened a very hostile reception, to future Tajourah Kafilahs passing through their country. All this we had been made aware of, when we met the Kafilah of Mahomed Allee at Sagagahdah, and Ohmed Mahomed felt a corresponding anxiety, until he was somewhat relieved, by finding that his friends, the Hy Soumaulee, had also a quarrel with the same tribe. A large council was accordingly called together this evening, to determine upon a combined mode of proceeding, to ensure a safe passage through the country of our common enemy.
The result was, that an additional escort of thirty Hy Soumaulee were engaged, who were to receive for their services four dollars each man, to be paid on our arrival in Shoa. After it was all settled, I was requested to give, the security of my promise for its payment; and as I was convinced that any expense really necessary to secure the safety of the stores, would be readily paid on the termination of our journey by the Mission in Shoa, I did not hesitate to assure them, that they would certainly receive, on our arrival, what I considered to be, their very moderate demand. The Hy Soumaulee expressed themselves satisfied, and two-thirds of the required number were immediately enlisted, who, after givingtheir names to be enrolled in my note-book, hastened to their homes, to make some preparations for the journey.
April 25th.—We were obliged to remain at Herhowlee all this day, to allow of some jowahree biscuit being prepared, for the use of the new escort upon the road. Numerous deliberative calahms were held during the day, for the Dankalli people cannot do the least public business, without having a succession of these council-meetings to determine upon the best course to be adopted.
In these calahms, it is usual for every one to sit down in a large circle, holding before him his shield, over the top of which the face alone is visible. In the right hand they hold the spear upright, its butt-end resting upon the ground. Each has a voice in the assembly, but it is very seldom that more than two or three of them speak, and the advice of the elders appears to have the greatest influence. When any difference of opinion arises, the party in the minority never endeavours to argue, but either remains silent or retires from the circle, so that the greatest unanimity always prevails. In case of very different opinions being supported by influential men, I have seen the two parties divide into separate rings. Each discuss their own particular views, and subsequent conferences of the chiefs of either side then determine the course of action to be adopted. During the whole proceedings the greatest care is taken toavoid a quarrel. If, however, party feeling should run unusually high, the precaution of a general peace assembly is resorted to both before and after the discussion, when every man takes an oath upon the Koran not to injure the others, so that whilst a number of tribes are combined together in any general business, it very rarely happens that a quarrel takes place among them.
With respect to the usual attitude of these people, when sitting in conversation, or in council, their faces just appearing above the upper edge of their shields, it struck me that very probably, this might have given occasion, for the representations made of an Ethiopian people who had no heads, but whose eyes and mouths were placed upon their breasts. No other reason can be found to account for the described appearance of the Blemmyes, and those who have seen the Dankalli sitting behind their shields, either in council or in battle array, must admit, I think, the probability that this national and characteristic custom was the foundation of the ancient report.
April 26th.—All the Hy Soumaulee being ready to start, our Kafilah moved off the ground about sunrise. I marched in company with Ohmed Medina and our numerous escort, over a rich well-watered country for two hours, till we arrived at the commencement of a large plain, flanked by flat-topped lava ridges, where it was again resolved to halt for the day. The plain was called Barradudda,and afforded excellent and abundant forage for the camels.
It was a beautiful spot which was selected for the encampment, the whole surface of the earth being one extensive green sward of fresh young grass. Mimosa-trees there grew to an extraordinary height, festooned from the topmost branches with a many-flowered climbing plant, which extending from tree to tree, formed a continued suite of the coolest bowers. The aditu, also offered its thick shade of round velvet-like leaves, from amidst which its short white trunk, seemed to represent the painted tent-pole of some bright green pavilion, of the richest material. Doves in all directions fled startled at our approach, only to return immediately, with louder cooing, to the quickly-remembered care of their young, who, in flat slightly-built nests of dry sticks and grass, lay crowding to the centre, as if aware of the insecurity of their frail-built homes. Hares in great numbers bounded from beneath our feet, and after running a few yards, would turn to gaze again upon the intruders on the quiet of their retreats, whilst the tall stalking bustard scarcely deigned to notice our arrival, but seemingly intent upon his beetle hunt, slowly removed himself from the increasing noise.
The scene was particularly inviting to me after the stones and sand of the previous few days’ journey, and although our march this morning had not been long, I was not sorry to learn the determinationof the Ras ul Kafilah to remain here for the day. I soon got my carpet and mats arranged, borrowed a wooden pillow for my head, and with two or three of the new escort on one side, and Ohmed Medina on the other, had a long conversation, as we lay under the trees, upon the subject of religion. I endeavoured to make Ohmed Medina understand what a good Christian his Prophet Mahomed was, which was duly interpreted to the amused Bedouins, who all sat very patiently in an attitude of attention, until sufficient novel matter had been understood by Ohmed Medina, to interest them in the recital.
There are few interesting subjects, respecting which so little is generally known, as the Mahomedan religion. It professes a belief in one true and only God; and Islamism, apart from the rule of life instituted by Mahomed, was professed by Abraham, by Isaac, and, according to my opinion, which is of no value, but as satisfactory to my own conscience, was also taught by Jesus and his disciples. That our Saviour will appear again, is the cherished hope of every enlightened Mahomedan, and he glories in affirming that all the inhabitants of the world will then become his followers. This is so general an idea, that even the ignorant Mahomedans of the East, firmly believe that the Amhara, or Christian population, of Abyssinia, will at a future time seize Mecca, and destroy the temple. Something similar to this is the expressed fearof the Turks at the present day, that the Feringees will ultimately take Constantinople, and put down their religion. Both these popular ideas originate from the same source, as that which directs the learned Islam Mollum to expect the coming of Jesus; a tradition respecting Mahomed, who is stated to have confessed, that inasmuch as that Christ was not dead but living, and would come again, he was superior to himself, who was mortal and should die, like other men.
The numerous and fast extending sect, the Whaabbees, act up to this admission, and not only are they careful, to avoid all allusions to Mahomed in their prayers, but affect to make intercession in his behalf, by praying that God will forgive him his great sins; for not only they, but all other Mahomedans admit that their Prophet was so far from being immaculate, that he frequently violated the laws which he himself had promulgated as coming direct from Allah. The Whaabbees, who are Mahomedan Unitarians, a few years back, overran all Arabia, destroyed the tomb of Mahomed in Medina, and were about to act in a similar manner towards the temple in Mecca. The first man, however, who had mounted the roof for this purpose, by some accident, was precipitated to the ground and killed. This looked so like a judgment, that the zeal of these reformers abated considerably, and being soon after driven out of the Hedjas, and in some measure suppressed,by Mahomed Allee Pacha, this famous shrine escaped, for some short time, that destruction which I hope yet to see accomplished.
I need not enter into details of our interesting conversation, which only terminated with the setting sun. All afternoon we lay discussing matters of religion until it was fully understood by all that I was a Christian Whaahbee; and Ohmed Medina taking hold of my beard, drew it gently through his hand, as he said, that “an Ahkeem with such a promise of wisdom as that, ought to be altogether a Mussulman.” “Thou almost persuadest me to be a Christian,” would have been a more gratifying speech from my Islam companion, but I am no St. Paul.
In my notes upon this conversation, I have remarked that it is my firm conviction that the believers in one God, who live according to the moral precepts of the religion of Jesus, is the sect to whom is reserved, the glory of reuniting in one faith, the present divided family of man. Unitarianism, is the fore-coming shadow of this to be universally acknowledged belief, and all who profess its tenets should reflect, upon the important object committed to their agency, and encouraged by the high hope, that must result from their thoughts upon the subject, they will perhaps increase their endeavours to spread more widely, the principles of faith which they profess.
This observation is inserted solely as a matter of what I conceive to be duty; I hope, therefore, thatthus recording my conviction, a bearing testimony to what the natural education of circumstances has taught me to believe to be the truth, will not be charged as presumption; especially when I feel assured that my omitting it, would be an act of the grossest ingratitude to my constant Guide and Guard, who has led and preserved me, through no ordinary difficulties and dangers.