CHAPTER XXXI.
Journey from How to Mulkukuyu, general direction south-west, time marching, four hours and a-half.—Forest on right bank of Hawash.—The ford of Mulkukuyu.—Passage of the river.—Congratulations.—Scorpion hunting.—Visit the Hippopotamus lake.—Journey from Mulkukuyu to Azbotee, general direction west, time marching, five hours and a-half.—Lee Adu.—Change in character of the country.—View of the table-land of Abyssinia.—The so-called Abyssinian Alps.—Reflections.
May 20th.—Being nearly the first on the line of march, as we were the morning before, we again started from our halting-place some hours before sunrise, and after descending the precipitous side of the ridge of Billin or How, we entered upon an extensive and densely-wooded country to the west. For the first few miles, the march was across a very stony district, the mimosa-trees were low and ragged-looking, and not growing so closely together as we found them to do as we advanced. After proceeding some little distance, four ostriches, of a light-brown or stone colour, trotted away on our approach. The long thick legs seemed large in proportion to the body of the bird, and gave me the idea of a light frame, suspended upon two powerful spring propellers. The progress of the two hind legs of a trotting horse,separated from the rest of the body, if it can be imagined, will represent the gait of these birds when running. Another novelty to me, was a large mass of elephants’ dung, that, like a large Stilton cheese, was carried on the shoulder of one of the Hy Soumaulee, who brought it on purpose for me to see, and who claimed a present accordingly for his trouble. I had also given to me on this march, a lump of soft fresh gum-arabic, nearly a pound in weight, and of most agreeable flavour. It reminded me in taste of a green ear of corn.
I had ridden so far on my mule, but was now glad to dismount, as the trees began to be very numerous and troublesome, for as they were without exception, the long-thorned mimosa, my hat was continually being snatched off my head, or my Arab frock torn from my shoulders. There was some danger, too, to my eyes, for I stood a very great chance of having them severely injured by the sudden return of the armed boughs, dragged forward in the first instance by the shouldered spear of the individual who preceded me, as he carelessly pushed his way among the trees. Our path was a very monotonous one, something like travelling through a close wood in England. The shade was agreeable enough, and we certainly did come sometimes to open spots, where a little greensward refreshed the foot by its softness.
After walking nearly three hours, the number of my informants, crying out, “There is the Hawash!there is the Hawash!” increasing as we advanced, we came, greatly to my surprise after all that had been told me, very suddenly upon the edge of the low bank, which overhung the much-talked-of, long-wished-for river. A few moments before we came in sight of the stream, I noticed that Ohmed Medina was repeating a short prayer of thanks, for having reached it in safety, in which I heartily joined, and then lifting up my head, the yellow water of the Hawash was the first object I saw. My escort, and others of the Kafilah, had, at some distance, begun to race with one another to get down first, so that when we came, thirty or forty of them were already swimming about in the stream. Some confusion, and a good laugh was occasioned at the hurry of this bathing party to get out, when, by a few shouts, and waving our hands, Ohmed Medina intimated that it was my intention to celebrate our arrival in true Arab style, by firing off my pistols and carabine. This ceremony being duly performed, each report followed by a loud shout, I and three or four others sat, sheltered from the sun, under the bank close to the water’s edge, until the camels should come up. When I had ceased firing, the swimmers resumed their bath; though frequently invited, I did not choose to exhibit my white skin in all its unrobed singularity, to the critical remarks of a lot of black Dankalli.
We sat waiting for the camels above an hour, which I occupied in taking a good survey of thelittle reach before us, and in getting some information relative to the general character and course of the river. Its channel is a mere cut, or canal about fifteen feet deep and thirty yards broad, in the alluvial plane which extends some miles on either side. The water itself, at this period of the year, was only from two to three feet in depth; and in many places, large stones showed their summits above the surface. A fringe of various kinds of trees hung over from the banks on either side, and each extremity of that portion of the river I saw, seemed to be lost among their drooping, dark green foliage.
The first camel that came up, made a terrible mess of it, for he tumbled down the short, but steep bank, and occasioned such a dust I thought some explosion must have taken place. After this accident we thought it best to get out of the way, and accordingly forded the stream. My mule, who knew where she was as well as any of us, came cantering up with the first string of camels, and being a thirsty kind of a body was not long in letting herself carefully down the slope. I caught her easily as she stooped her head to drink, and made her carry me across, for as the ford took a long diagonal direction and the bottom abounded with stones, I did not choose to hazard my bare feet among them. The opposite bank was of exactly the same character as the one we had just before left, and my mule having surmounted it by a fewsnatching, tear-away steps, I dismounted and got under the shade of a large tree, from whence I could have a good view of the passage of the Kafilah.
The camels crossed without any other accident, and immediately I had seen the last of the stores over I followed Ohmed Mahomed, who had previously come up to congratulate me on being in the dominions of Sahale Selassee, king of Shoa.
We went about half a mile farther towards the west before we came to the halting-place for the day, which was called Mulkukuyu, from the passage at this place over the Hawash;melka, ormulku, in the language of the Galla, signifying a ford.
Here I found a sudden change from the well-wooded character of the other side, for although high trees and a considerable jungle existed, we all at once halted in a lava-abounding country; low ridges, and steep, conical, crater-like hills being visible in whatever direction we turned. Still, these were all well moulded up to their bases, and numerous broad impressions of the feet of the heavy elephant, deeply indented the rich and fertile soil.
I was congratulating myself so entirely all the day at having reached the other side of the Hawash, that I made but very few other observations upon the surrounding country. Towards evening Ohmed Medina, with his usual anxiety for me to see as much as I could, brought four or five Hy Soumaulee to go with him and me to the shores of a largelake in the immediate neighbourhood. I found it to be an irregular and very circumscribed depression among some low flat-topped hills, and communicating by a deeply-cut but narrow channel, with the river. This was now however, quite dry, and the waters of the lake appeared to be much lower than the level of the Hawash. Lofty trees, many of them quite new to me, grew close down to the water’s edge. Beneath them were some white pelicans, with their heads and long beaks resting upon their craws, that seemed to be idly ruminating upon their last meal of fish.
The smooth surface of the lake at intervals, was frequently disturbed by the cautiously protruded face and nostrils of a bulky hippopotamus, which, snorting with a deeply-drawn breath, would prepare for his gambolling plunge again to the bottom. I fired several times, but without success, although my companions were satisfied themselves that some were killed, because the noise of the report, and perhaps the soft harmless tap of a leaden bullet, induced the animals to remove themselves farther off, or to keep altogether out of sight below the surface, as on occasions of emergency they can remain for a long period at the bottom without a fresh supply of air. I looked out for crocodiles, many of which, other travellers reported were to be seen in this lake. I do not question the correctness of these observations because I did not happen to see one myself. Many of my companionsappeared to be familiar with the sight of them, for among other astonishing beasts I was to see at the Hawash was one, they told me, something like a lizard, which they used to represent by joining the two elbows together, and then opening wide the hands and fore arms, intimated what an extent of mouth this animal had. Traces of hyænas, and of some large feline animal, were repeatedly seen, and although I saw no elephants in this place, their sharp trumpet cry was heard throughout the next night.
On idly turning over some stones, to see the greatest number of scorpions I could find in one family, I came upon a large black centipede, curled up in the usual manner of these reptiles when they are exposed. Stooping to examine it more closely, Ohmed Medina and others, who had seen me without remark amusing myself with the scorpions now cried out that this would kill me, and some got up from the ground to pull me away, for they supposed I was going to take hold of it. Turning up my face with a peculiar look, as if to ask them if they thought me such a goose, I said in English inquiringly, “Bite like devil?” to which Ohmed Medina, in a tone of the most decided affirmation, made me laugh by repeating my words like an echo, “Bite like devil!” accompanied with repeated nods of the head so appropriately, that he appeared fully to understand the import of the words he used.
We loitered along the stony banks of the lake untillong after the moon had risen, in the vain hope that the hippopotami would come out to graze, as is usual with them during the night. This, however, they were prevented doing, being alarmed by loud laughter and the clapping of hands which proceeded from our camp, for the younger people of the Kafilah were amusing themselves with dancing to celebrate their safe passage over the Hawash. The unusual noise confined the unwieldy beasts to their watery home, although the frequent rough snort, and the ripple which followed their return to the bottom of the lake, were evidences of the interest with which they watched for the termination of the boisterous sounds that, so unaccountably to them, broke upon the stillness of night, and usurped with whooping yells the usual retreats of solitude and silence.
A sympathetic feeling we shared with the hungry animals occasioned us to return to camp, where Zaido excused himself for having nothing ready to eat, save some sun-dried strips of raw meat, by telling me that he had been occupied the whole evening with washing his tobe and that of Ohmed Mahomed. To interest me more in the excuse, he entered into the details of some great curiosity in the water way, which he described as lying more to the west than the lake I had just been visiting. This he asserted to be a natural reservoir of soap and water, and as evidence of its cleansing qualities, pointed to thedancers and to others more tranquil, who had lain down for the night, and I could perceive by the light of the moon a great improvement in the appearance of their tobes, the whiteness of which was really remarkable, considering the state of dirt and grease I had seen them in during the morning. As this water was also said to be undrinkable, and had a very bad smell, I concluded it to be some mineral water, and determined to visit it the next morning.
A lucifer match and a few dry sticks soon produced a crackling blaze, upon which was thrown a yard or two of the meat rope, that was quickly cooked and as speedily disappeared, and as soon as the dinner things were carried away, and the cloth removed, I joined in the festive revelries, taking part in turns both in the opera and ballet. A spirit of merriment seemed to be abroad, and I saw no reason why I should not join the rest, so picked up an old gourd-shell bottle, sat myself down on the top of my hut, and contributed to the music by thumping a hollow-sounding tune out of the bottom of this primitive tambourine. The dancing circle in front redoubled their efforts, shrieking, laughing, yelling, clapping hands, and hopping on alternate legs around a central figure, who, with body and head now bent forwards, now thrown backwards, slowly pirouetted in a direction contrary to that of the others, whilst with equal vigour, he plied his open hands. Thus theydanced, thus I and others played; and when tired, I threw down my musical instrument, Allee and another struggled for the direction of the band, and I left the former far outshining me both in vivacity and dexterity of touch, although he managed luckily for my repose, very soon to knock out the bottom of the gourd, and thus gave the signal for the party to break up.
May 21st.—We started by sunrise this morning, the principal Wahama Kafilah alone accompanying us; the remainder, belonging to the different tribes, determined to remain at Mulkukuyu another day. About half a mile from our halting-place, we marched along the border of the washing lake, and I turned aside, with some of the Kafilah people, to examine it.
A few minutes’ walk satisfied me that it occupied the basin-like depression of one of a number of low extinct craters, among which we had just been moving. A descent of a few yards, took me to the edge of the water, which, as I expected, was of a mineral character, having an alkaline taste, and slightly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, detected by its smell. The lake was nearly circular; but its diameter was not one hundred yards in length. Its surface presented a green appearance, not occasioned, as I could perceive, by any subaqueous vegetation; and the water, when taken out, was colourless, and very clear.
Our road was sometimes over a black soil ofdecomposing vegetable matter, beneath high shady trees, among which myriads of a small chattering bird about the size of a sparrow, sent up one continual din, that, in some situations, put talking to each other as we passed, quite out of the question. Many of the trees had been deprived of all their lower branches by the elephant, which, on making a meal, tears down with his trunk one of these large limbs, and eats at his leisure the younger shoots and leaves. Some of those I saw thus pulled down, were from a height of at least twelve or fifteen feet from the ground, and were frequently more than six inches in diameter. A striking contrast between two very different agents in thus bringing large trees to the earth, was afforded by the juxtaposition of the overturned trunks of others, among and underneath whose roots, the many-turretted residence of the white ant had been constructed; the effect of which was, that very soon after these insects had so located themselves, the slightest breeze would occasion the downfall of the tree, and trunks thus fallen, and those dragged down by the elephant, lie side by side. Sometimes in this manner, little savannahs or open spots of green growing grass are formed, where the rays of the sun are thus enabled to penetrate the otherwise dense gloom of the few miles of forest that exists along the western bank of the Hawash.
Our road was one formed entirely by elephants in their wanderings backwards and forwards fromthe river to the extensive lake of Lee Adu, or Whitewater, situated about eight miles to the west of the Hawash, at the ford of Mulkukuyu. We arrived at Lee Adu in three hours, and halted a short time for the camels and mules to drink; we then proceeded again for two hours more, when we reached the commencement of a large undulating plain, called Azbotee, from where we had the first full and splendid view of the high table-land of Shoa, and the numerous small hills and valleys which occupy the long sloping talus from the edge of the elevated plateau in the distance, to the low level district in the neighbourhood where we were.
At Lee Adu, Ohmed Medina, Adam Burrah, Moosa, and myself, bathed in a retired corner of this broad sheet of water. Large fields of high reeds and rushes bordered it for some distance around us, and the broad-leaved lotus, with its white, cup-like flowers, covered the surface. Many a splashing duck, and diving waterfowl, scared by us now left their previously quiet retreat. The white ibis flew to the opposite side of the lake, whilst screaming jays of many-coloured plumage passed over our heads, seeking some home more retired than the disturbed wood, through which our camels were then passing.
On our road to Azbotee, I observed that the country to the west of Lee Adu, assumes a very different aspect to that in the opposite direction,towards the Hawash. The neighbourhood of the lake marks the commencement of a more open district, very much resembling the plains of Southern Africa, being devoid of trees, and a not very thick jungle of low bushes and shrubs, admitting a clear view over them. Among other plants in this situation, I noticed immense quantities of the Socotrine aloe plant, with its long variegated fleshy leaves, whip-like flower stalk, and bright orange-coloured corollas depending like small bells from its summit.
At Azbotee, the country to the north and east is marked by several volcanic craters, of some elevation; and a ridge occupies the tract we had just passed over, of slight elevation certainly, but sufficient to shut out from sight the opposite slope to the Hawash, except in the immediate neighbourhood of Lee Adu, which extends to the left, or south, where its waters still were seen gleaming through the tall trees, growing upon its banks. Before us were clumps of mimosa-trees, at first “few and far between,” that prepared us gradually for a thickly-wooded belt, that could be perceived at the bottom of the gentle slope from Azbotee to Kokki, and which marked the channel of a stream flowing to the south and east, probably into Lee Adu. Beyond, was the valley of Kokki, so called from the number of guinea-fowl found there. A succession of low hills, gradually increasing in elevation, now leads the eye towards the north-westuntil it rests upon the town of Farree, which, plainly visible, occupies the summits of some hills, that overtopped the intervening heights, and is distant about fifteen miles from Azbotee, in a straight line.
In the neighbourhood of Farree, coronets of smoke surmounting many a hilltop, told of villages and human life, and dotted with small white clouds the amphitheatre behind.
Ohmed Medina, with an obliging interest in my being amused, pointed out the situation of succeeding towns, to the distant centre of the highest ridge, where he placed Ankobar, the capital of Shoa; whilst Ohmed Mahomed and Ebin Izaak, with the same instinctive participation in the pleasure I felt, as a stranger, upon first witnessing the splendid prospect that lay before me, assisted in explaining the natural panorama; the former sitting upon the half-detached branch of an elephant-torn mimosa, under which we were standing, and Ebin Izaak, with outstretched hand, the other resting on my shoulder, followed the direction of Ohmed Medina’s spear, to aid me in letting fall my observation upon the exact spot, by directing me to look at white patches of smoke, to the dark shadow of a cloud, to red-coloured earth, or to anything of a prominent character, by which I could distinguish each locality as it was named by Ohmed Medina. Thus was my eye conducted, and thus my view travelled, until the diminishing effects of distance gradually confounded particulars, andthe strained sight was glad to find a bound to farther vision in the nearly level line, encroaching upon the sky, that characterizes the bluff termination to the east of the table-land of Abyssinia. All the time I was thus occupied, it never occurred to me, that this long slope of about thirty miles, and rising gradually from the elevation of two thousand feet to that of nine thousand feet above the level of the sea, that this gently-inclined plane covered with thousands of little hills, and as many little valleys, was the district of the so-called Abyssinian Alps. Of course, I had quite a different idea of such a character of country, which required, I thought, the high, towering, romantic rocks of mountain limestone, or of granite, that form the chief features of the Alps of Switzerland, or the equally wild scenery of the mountains of Sweden and Norway. I expected that I had yet to travel a long, long distance to obtain a view of those, which I supposed to be stupendous hills, and never dreamt that such a sacrifice of truth for effect could be made, or such an erroneous judgment formed, as to call these little eminences the Abyssinian Alps. It is ridiculous so to name a succession of low, denuded hills; the top of almost every one of them being the perching-place of a little hamlet or town, whilst their sides are most beautifully cultivated to their very summits, and exhibit, on the lower portions of the inclined plane, fields of cotton, of teff, or of maize; whilst the ascent, on the journey to Shoa,admits of wheat, barley, and linseed being produced. Little rivulets, whose constant course have deepened their channels into valleys, and formed these hills out of the once level slope, trickle down until, by combining, they form streams which sometimes do, and sometimes do not, reach the Hawash. This river is, in fact, entirely formed of the waters of this slope, which is the prominent feature of the intermediate country between its stream and the terminating edge of the table-land above. A concluding remark upon this subject is, that it would be difficult to find one of these Abyssinian Alps that, from its own base, independent of its position upon the slope, would measure seven hundred feet high.
I sat with my companions some time, asking and receiving information, now the more interesting, from the vicinity I was in to the first stage, as I considered it, of my contemplated African journey; and where I had purposed to myself a stay of some months, to prepare me for future endeavours to penetrate farther into the continent. The change of feeling too, on again becoming the denizen of a country where at least social order was maintained, was exciting in its way, for I had learnt to value civil rule as it ought to be, and I should have but little hesitation in giving my vote, if the question were the extreme absolutism of Shoa, or the equally extreme of liberty possessed by the Dankalli tribes. For my part, I never thought myself somuch of a slave before, for I certainly felt grateful at having come scathless through the country of the freest and most lawless set of men on the face of the earth; and happy in getting to Shoa, where the first thing that happened to me was being confined seven or eight days in a house, with a sentinel over me, upon no other excuse but that my disposition and character should be submitted to such testing ordeal. But I am anticipating. Of this kind is the education a traveller gets, and I fully agree with de Montbron, (the quotation appended to the first canto of Childe Harold,) who, in his “Cosmopolite,” remarks:—
“L’univers est une espèce de livre dont on n’a lu que la première page, quand on n’a vu que son pays. J’en ai feuilleté un assez grand nombre que j’ai trouvé également mauvaises cet examen ne m’a point été infructueux. Je haïssais ma patrie. Toutes les impertinences des peuples divers, parmi lesquels j’ai vécu m’ont reconcilié avec elle. Quand je n’aurais tiré d’autre bénéfice de mes voyages que celui-là je n’eu regretterais ni les frais ne les fatigues.”
I looked upon the lovely scene so long, and felt so strongly my return to civilized life, that, like a worthy friend of mine relating to me his feelings on reaching the self-same spot, I could have found relief in a good flow of tears, so sincere was my joy. Numerous residences of man were in sight, snug straw-thatched hives they looked, but houses of any sort were as old friends to me, and my heart rejoiced when I beheld them. I always connecthappiness with homes; and “smiling villages,” is I am sure, one of those beautiful expressions of instinct we naturally make when the full heart adds by reflection its own gladness to the landscape.
On our return to the camp, I thought it necessary to make such change in my garments as should add a little more of a civilized character to my own appearance, to harmonize somewhat with the state of society, for which I was going to exchange my present gipsey life. I accordingly got out, during the night, the only shirt I had left of the number I had reserved for the journey whilst in Tajourah; all of which, with this exception, in the course of two or three weeks, had been worn, taken off, and given to Zaido, in the vain hope of getting them washed; but which, in every case, were obliged to be divided amongst the importunate beggars who happened to be near at the moment. One would want one of the skirts for his child, a second would want the other for his wife, then the sleeves were found to be excellent dusters, with which the Dankalli are perpetually cleaning and brightening up their shields, so that among them all, every succeeding shirt was soon made old rags of, until I found it equally convenient to go without as with one, and for the last month of my journey my clothing was almost as scanty as my companions, and had I parted with anything more, I should certainly have required some of their clothes in return.
I now also exchanged my old Arab frock for a French blouse, donned a clean pair of white trowsers, and the black silk handkerchief I had previously worn round my waist was transferred to my neck. Having finished my toilette, I again visited the rent mimosa-tree, taking with me a small telescope, to assist me in examining places the names of which were familiar, from having with me a part of the journal of the Rev. Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf, on the occasion of their first visit to Shoa by the Adal road.
I was now surrounded by crowds of the Kafilah people, several of whom seizing the glass, as they could get it, took a moment’s peep, not unfrequently with the closed eye, at the country before them; but all vociferated “Whallah,” that what they had seen was most extraordinary.
A short interval of darkness before the moon rose occasioned us to retire to the camp, but not long after her yellow light shed a rich softness upon everything that could be seen, I found myself sitting against the boxes that formed my hut, with my face turned towards the promised land, which I anticipated was so fraught with opportunities of enterprise, and of every circumstance favourable for exploring the unknown countries of intra-tropical Africa.