CHAPTER IV.

[55]That is, Cape Verd in latitude 14° 48′, longitude 17° 34′ west of Greenwich: St. Louis in latitude 16° 5′ (by D’Anville), longitude 16° 8′ by Fleurieu.[56]D’Anville16°9′30″⎫⎬⎭Mean, 16° 7′D’Apres1650Woodville1683Latitude 13° 16′[57]The public cannot but recollect the obligations due to this gentleman, on the score of his persevering industry, and laudable zeal, in the work of extending our knowledge of the interior parts of Africa. Accordingly his loss to society, in this department, is likely to be felt for some time, if not for ever: the researches in Africa being a path of his own choosing; a path which, more than any other person, he had contributed to open, and to render smooth; and in which he seemed destined to succeed![58]Dr. Afzelius supposes that the town of Kissey may be, in direct distance, about 36 geographical miles to the north-east by east of Serra Leona. Hence, Teembo should be no more than 156 from Serra Leona. On the general map it is 170. I have adhered to the bearing lines on Mr. Watt’s map; but think it probable that Teembo, and the whole route may bemore to the south.[59]This is the residence of Dr.Laidley, a gentleman to whom Mr.Parkand theAssociationare under great obligations. He received Mr. Park into his house, and treated him more like a child of the family than a stranger. He cured Mr. Park of a serious illness, which confined him for many weeks: and when Mr. Park was disappointed of the goods necessary for his expences, which were to have been sent out with Consul Willis, the Doctor supplied him with every possible necessary, he had occasion for; taking his bills upon the Association for the amount.[60]A journey of an ordinary traveller may be taken at about 17 geographical miles in direct distance; that of messengers in India, is equal to about 25, or 100 English miles by the road, in three days.[61]See Phil. Trans. for 1791.[62]The places of observation are marked on the Map by asterisks.[63]This sketch is not pretended to be minutely accurate; it being morally impossible to procure recent observations in every part, from the rapid change that takes place in the quantity of the variation, in one and the same spot. However, the observations that determine the course of the lines in the Atlantic (and which are marked on the sketch) are from observations so late as 1793. The same is to be said of those in the western quarter of the Mediterranean; and those beyond the Cape of Good Hope, to longitude 30° east, are of the year 1789.It is obvious that a critical knowledge of thequantityof the variation in any particular place, and at a given time, is of less importance to the present question, than that of thebearingof thelinesof equal quantities, at anyrecentperiod: and this object is, I think, tolerably well obtained, by the materials before me. Any change that may have taken place since 1793, is in favour of a greater quantity of variation, within the limits of Mr. Park’s travels.In the Atlantic, the increase appears to be about a degree in seven years. In the Indian ocean, less: and in the Red Sea, there seems to have been little alteration between 1762, and 1776.The lines, as far as they are founded onauthority, arecontinuous; butbrokenin the partsassumed.[64]It is in proof of the existence of this quantity of variation, that, on closing Mr. Park’s route at Woolli, there appeared to be only a small deficiency of distance on the Map, when 17° variation were allowed. Had the quantity allowed been less, this ought not to have happened, as Jarra is placed according to its latitude.[65]Major Houghton’s point of outset in 1791 was Medina. His route falls into that of Mr. Park at several points, and finally branches off from it about 30 miles short of the Falemé river, which the Major crossed at Calcullo, near 20 miles higher up than Naye, where Mr. Park crossed it.[66]HoursG. Miles direct.Bearings by compass.CountryLat. by obs.REMARKS.Pisania⎫⎬⎭13° 35′to616SE by EYaniOn these bearings 17° westerly variation were allowed. The diff. lat. was then 89; departure easterly 237. But the diff. lat. by obs. being only 50, the course should be E. 11¼ N. instead of E. 20½, as before; and the departure 247. But I have finally corrected the easting, by reducing it 24 miles, or to 223.JindeyKootacunda513E⎫⎪⎪⎪⎬⎪⎪⎪⎭WoolliTabajang2½6E ½ NMedina5¼15dittoKonjour38E ½ SMallaing26E by SKolor512ENE13° 49′Tambacunda5¼14SE by EKooniakarry513E by NKoojar39E ½ NAt a well1334E by NWoodsTallica410E⎫⎪⎪⎪⎬⎪⎪⎪⎭BondouGanada410E ½ NKoorkoorany4½12ESE13° 53′Dooggi13E by NBuggil4½14E ½ NSoobroodka718E by NNaye716ENEFattyacunda3¼7dittoKimmoo4½12ditto14° 25′Joag616E by NKajaaga[67]According to this result, Joag would be in longitude 9° 12′, and Fort St. Joseph in 9° 21′; which is about 38 min. more easterly than M. D’Anville’s Map of the Senegal allows: of which more in the sequel.[68]In Vol. iv. p. 92.[69]HoursG. miles direct.Bearings by compass.Lat. by observ.Country.Joag to⎫⎬⎭———14° 25′⎱⎰718E by NKajaagaSammee⎫⎪⎪⎬⎪⎪⎭Kayee3½9DittoTeesee7½18NE by NMedina—12SE by EKassonJumbo—12Ditto14° 34′Kooniakarry—3E by S[70]The register of the bearings and distance between Kooniakarry and Jarra, being lost or mislaid, Mr. Park gave them from memory only; but the observations of latitude at two places within that space, were preserved, as well as the latitude by account at two other places.HoursG. miles direct.Bearings by compass.Lat. by observ.Country.Kooniakarryto———14° 34′⎫⎪⎬⎪⎭KassonSoomo—17SE ½ EKanjee—17Do.14° 10′Leekarago—8EasterlyFeesurah—14E by S14°5′⎫⎪⎪⎬⎪⎪⎭KaartaKarancalla—18EasterlyKemmoo—8E by NMarina—13NortherlyToordah—8Do.Funingkeddy—12N by E ½ ESimbing—16N by E⎱⎰LudamarJarra—2NNE15°5′[71]Equal to 144 min. of longitude;whence Joag being by account in long.9°12Add 144 min.224Long. of Jarra, by Mr. Park’s original calculation648[72]Mr. Carmichael came within 6 or 7 degrees in the bearing between Aleppo and Bussorah, on a distance of 720 British miles. But the advantages were prodigiously in his favour; the road being straight, the country open, and the camel walking an equable pace. (See Phil. Trans. for 1791.)[73]Diff. Lat. S.Diff. Lon. E.N.E.JarratoDoolinkeaboo724Queira11′25′Diggani§198Sherilla1440Seracorro59Dama114Sego63Wawra58Lat. by account 13° 4′⎱⎰121 S281 EDingyee—7Diff. lon. 4° 41′ EWassiboo‖—7Sansanding10 N15 ESatile1831Sibiti—7Galloo121Nyara316Moorja4 N14Modiboo319Datiliboo9 S38Silla212Fanimboo1224Lat. by account 13° 22′⎱⎰18 N69 EJiosorra718Diff. lon. 1° 9′ ENo variation was allowed in this calculation.[74]Original bearings between Wassiboo‖ and Diggani.§Places.Dist.Bearings.Wassiboo toSatile30SE b EGalloo20ESEMoorja15E b NDatiliboo25SE b EFanimboo35ESEJiosorra20ESEDoolinkeaboo15SE b ELions18SE b S[a]Diggani7South[a]On working these bearings over again, it appeared that Mr. Park had made a mistake; and thence inferred a wrong position for Diggani, Sego, &c. in his table of latitudes and longitudes. I mention this, to shew that he has acted fairly, in exposing his whole process; and even his errors.[75]This being equal to 4° 47′ difference of longitude, Sego, by Mr. Park’s reckoning, would lie in 2° 1′ west of Greenwich.[76]The informant might possibly be influenced by the bearing ofthat portionof the roadnearestto him, which is moreeasterlythan the part towards Sego.[77]It may not be known to the generality of readers, that, in the former part of this century, Tombuctoo was as much the object of geographical research amongst the French, as it has been of late with the English. D’Anville was particularly anxious about it, as may be seen in the Mem. of the Academy of Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 73.

[55]That is, Cape Verd in latitude 14° 48′, longitude 17° 34′ west of Greenwich: St. Louis in latitude 16° 5′ (by D’Anville), longitude 16° 8′ by Fleurieu.

[56]D’Anville16°9′30″⎫⎬⎭Mean, 16° 7′D’Apres1650Woodville1683Latitude 13° 16′

[56]

[57]The public cannot but recollect the obligations due to this gentleman, on the score of his persevering industry, and laudable zeal, in the work of extending our knowledge of the interior parts of Africa. Accordingly his loss to society, in this department, is likely to be felt for some time, if not for ever: the researches in Africa being a path of his own choosing; a path which, more than any other person, he had contributed to open, and to render smooth; and in which he seemed destined to succeed!

[58]Dr. Afzelius supposes that the town of Kissey may be, in direct distance, about 36 geographical miles to the north-east by east of Serra Leona. Hence, Teembo should be no more than 156 from Serra Leona. On the general map it is 170. I have adhered to the bearing lines on Mr. Watt’s map; but think it probable that Teembo, and the whole route may bemore to the south.

[59]This is the residence of Dr.Laidley, a gentleman to whom Mr.Parkand theAssociationare under great obligations. He received Mr. Park into his house, and treated him more like a child of the family than a stranger. He cured Mr. Park of a serious illness, which confined him for many weeks: and when Mr. Park was disappointed of the goods necessary for his expences, which were to have been sent out with Consul Willis, the Doctor supplied him with every possible necessary, he had occasion for; taking his bills upon the Association for the amount.

[60]A journey of an ordinary traveller may be taken at about 17 geographical miles in direct distance; that of messengers in India, is equal to about 25, or 100 English miles by the road, in three days.

[61]See Phil. Trans. for 1791.

[62]The places of observation are marked on the Map by asterisks.

[63]This sketch is not pretended to be minutely accurate; it being morally impossible to procure recent observations in every part, from the rapid change that takes place in the quantity of the variation, in one and the same spot. However, the observations that determine the course of the lines in the Atlantic (and which are marked on the sketch) are from observations so late as 1793. The same is to be said of those in the western quarter of the Mediterranean; and those beyond the Cape of Good Hope, to longitude 30° east, are of the year 1789.It is obvious that a critical knowledge of thequantityof the variation in any particular place, and at a given time, is of less importance to the present question, than that of thebearingof thelinesof equal quantities, at anyrecentperiod: and this object is, I think, tolerably well obtained, by the materials before me. Any change that may have taken place since 1793, is in favour of a greater quantity of variation, within the limits of Mr. Park’s travels.In the Atlantic, the increase appears to be about a degree in seven years. In the Indian ocean, less: and in the Red Sea, there seems to have been little alteration between 1762, and 1776.The lines, as far as they are founded onauthority, arecontinuous; butbrokenin the partsassumed.

It is obvious that a critical knowledge of thequantityof the variation in any particular place, and at a given time, is of less importance to the present question, than that of thebearingof thelinesof equal quantities, at anyrecentperiod: and this object is, I think, tolerably well obtained, by the materials before me. Any change that may have taken place since 1793, is in favour of a greater quantity of variation, within the limits of Mr. Park’s travels.

In the Atlantic, the increase appears to be about a degree in seven years. In the Indian ocean, less: and in the Red Sea, there seems to have been little alteration between 1762, and 1776.

The lines, as far as they are founded onauthority, arecontinuous; butbrokenin the partsassumed.

[64]It is in proof of the existence of this quantity of variation, that, on closing Mr. Park’s route at Woolli, there appeared to be only a small deficiency of distance on the Map, when 17° variation were allowed. Had the quantity allowed been less, this ought not to have happened, as Jarra is placed according to its latitude.

[65]Major Houghton’s point of outset in 1791 was Medina. His route falls into that of Mr. Park at several points, and finally branches off from it about 30 miles short of the Falemé river, which the Major crossed at Calcullo, near 20 miles higher up than Naye, where Mr. Park crossed it.

[66]HoursG. Miles direct.Bearings by compass.CountryLat. by obs.REMARKS.Pisania⎫⎬⎭13° 35′to616SE by EYaniOn these bearings 17° westerly variation were allowed. The diff. lat. was then 89; departure easterly 237. But the diff. lat. by obs. being only 50, the course should be E. 11¼ N. instead of E. 20½, as before; and the departure 247. But I have finally corrected the easting, by reducing it 24 miles, or to 223.JindeyKootacunda513E⎫⎪⎪⎪⎬⎪⎪⎪⎭WoolliTabajang2½6E ½ NMedina5¼15dittoKonjour38E ½ SMallaing26E by SKolor512ENE13° 49′Tambacunda5¼14SE by EKooniakarry513E by NKoojar39E ½ NAt a well1334E by NWoodsTallica410E⎫⎪⎪⎪⎬⎪⎪⎪⎭BondouGanada410E ½ NKoorkoorany4½12ESE13° 53′Dooggi13E by NBuggil4½14E ½ NSoobroodka718E by NNaye716ENEFattyacunda3¼7dittoKimmoo4½12ditto14° 25′Joag616E by NKajaaga

[66]

[67]According to this result, Joag would be in longitude 9° 12′, and Fort St. Joseph in 9° 21′; which is about 38 min. more easterly than M. D’Anville’s Map of the Senegal allows: of which more in the sequel.

[68]In Vol. iv. p. 92.

[69]HoursG. miles direct.Bearings by compass.Lat. by observ.Country.Joag to⎫⎬⎭———14° 25′⎱⎰718E by NKajaagaSammee⎫⎪⎪⎬⎪⎪⎭Kayee3½9DittoTeesee7½18NE by NMedina—12SE by EKassonJumbo—12Ditto14° 34′Kooniakarry—3E by S

[69]

[70]The register of the bearings and distance between Kooniakarry and Jarra, being lost or mislaid, Mr. Park gave them from memory only; but the observations of latitude at two places within that space, were preserved, as well as the latitude by account at two other places.HoursG. miles direct.Bearings by compass.Lat. by observ.Country.Kooniakarryto———14° 34′⎫⎪⎬⎪⎭KassonSoomo—17SE ½ EKanjee—17Do.14° 10′Leekarago—8EasterlyFeesurah—14E by S14°5′⎫⎪⎪⎬⎪⎪⎭KaartaKarancalla—18EasterlyKemmoo—8E by NMarina—13NortherlyToordah—8Do.Funingkeddy—12N by E ½ ESimbing—16N by E⎱⎰LudamarJarra—2NNE15°5′

[71]Equal to 144 min. of longitude;whence Joag being by account in long.9°12Add 144 min.224Long. of Jarra, by Mr. Park’s original calculation648

[71]

[72]Mr. Carmichael came within 6 or 7 degrees in the bearing between Aleppo and Bussorah, on a distance of 720 British miles. But the advantages were prodigiously in his favour; the road being straight, the country open, and the camel walking an equable pace. (See Phil. Trans. for 1791.)

[73]Diff. Lat. S.Diff. Lon. E.N.E.JarratoDoolinkeaboo724Queira11′25′Diggani§198Sherilla1440Seracorro59Dama114Sego63Wawra58Lat. by account 13° 4′⎱⎰121 S281 EDingyee—7Diff. lon. 4° 41′ EWassiboo‖—7Sansanding10 N15 ESatile1831Sibiti—7Galloo121Nyara316Moorja4 N14Modiboo319Datiliboo9 S38Silla212Fanimboo1224Lat. by account 13° 22′⎱⎰18 N69 EJiosorra718Diff. lon. 1° 9′ ENo variation was allowed in this calculation.

[73]

No variation was allowed in this calculation.

[74]Original bearings between Wassiboo‖ and Diggani.§Places.Dist.Bearings.Wassiboo toSatile30SE b EGalloo20ESEMoorja15E b NDatiliboo25SE b EFanimboo35ESEJiosorra20ESEDoolinkeaboo15SE b ELions18SE b S[a]Diggani7South[a]On working these bearings over again, it appeared that Mr. Park had made a mistake; and thence inferred a wrong position for Diggani, Sego, &c. in his table of latitudes and longitudes. I mention this, to shew that he has acted fairly, in exposing his whole process; and even his errors.

[74]Original bearings between Wassiboo‖ and Diggani.§

[a]On working these bearings over again, it appeared that Mr. Park had made a mistake; and thence inferred a wrong position for Diggani, Sego, &c. in his table of latitudes and longitudes. I mention this, to shew that he has acted fairly, in exposing his whole process; and even his errors.

[75]This being equal to 4° 47′ difference of longitude, Sego, by Mr. Park’s reckoning, would lie in 2° 1′ west of Greenwich.

[76]The informant might possibly be influenced by the bearing ofthat portionof the roadnearestto him, which is moreeasterlythan the part towards Sego.

[77]It may not be known to the generality of readers, that, in the former part of this century, Tombuctoo was as much the object of geographical research amongst the French, as it has been of late with the English. D’Anville was particularly anxious about it, as may be seen in the Mem. of the Academy of Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 73.

The Construction of the Geography continued.

AtSilla, Mr. Park was informed that Tombuctoo was yet fourteen journies of the caravan distant from him; and these he has calculated at 200 G. miles only, in a direct line from Silla; as it appears that a bend in the course of the river, prevents a direct line of route towards it. As to the bearing, he unfortunately could not, as at Jarra, obtain a consistent account of it. The natives always pointedalong the general course of the river; although, as it may be supposed, it occasionally deviated to the right and left. It has been seen, in the bearing of Sego, how nearly it was given by judgment; but then the two cases differ very widely. The route is entirely byland, fromJarratoSego, by which the idea of the general line of direction is better preserved, than when broken into so many small parts, by ariver navigation, the more ordinary mode of communication (as it appears) between Silla and Tombuctoo. There were, no doubt, people, could Mr. Park have been able to meet with them, who having made the journey by land, could have furnished him with better information: but the reader, who already knows under what suspicious circumstances Mr. Park travelled in this quarter, will easily conceive that he was precluded from any communication withthose, who alone could have given the information: that is, theMoorish merchants, and their dependants.

The bearing of Tombuctoo from Benowm, was pointed out to Mr. Park, by a merchant of some consideration, who had resided at Walet, and had visited both Tombuctoo and Houssa. But theexceeding great distanceof Tombuctoo and Benowm, (it being nearly twice the distance of Sego from Jarra), will not admit such a degree of confidence in the report, as to allow it tosupersedeall other authorities, however it mayaidthe taskof approximating the position. But, notwithstanding, it will appear, that on the whole, it coincides most wonderfully with the otherdata.

The bearing in question, pointed out at different times, was commonly E by S, by compass: and Mr. Park never found his informant vary more than half a point, which was to the southward; or E by S ½ S. But the idea left on his mind, was E by S; which, allowing 17 degrees variation, is about east half north; or more correctly, E 5¾ N. And hence, admitting the distance of 200 G. miles between Silla and Tombuctoo, which supposes a space of about 500 such miles between Benowm and Tombuctoo, this latter would fall at about 50 minutes of latitude northward from Benowm (whose parallel is the same with that of Jarra, 15° 5′), and consequently in 15° 55′. Theobliquityof the intermediate meridians, might increase the parallel some minutes, and we may call it roundly 16°.

Such then was the received opinion at Benowm, concerning theparallelof Tombuctoo: for, it will appear, that the distance on theRhumb, which determines the difference of latitude, cannot be taken lower, than has been stated.

If thegeneral courseof the Joliba, after its escape from the mountains, may be admitted to have any weight in the determination of the question (since Mr. Park says, that they always pointedalong it, to express the line of direction, in which Tombuctoo lay), this will point to a higher parallel, by about half a degree, than the bearing from Benowm; that is to 16½ degrees. And, it may be remarked, that the difference between these results falls yet short of what would have arisen on an error of 5 degrees in the bearing; such as was experienced in that of Sego from Jarra.

Mr. Park was informed whilst at Benowm, that Walet, the capital of Beeroo, was ten journies distant, and this latter eleven journies short of Tombuctoo. According to Mr. Park’s information, Walet stands at about 240 G. miles, to the eastward of Benowm; (which would require no less than 24 such miles per day, and appears out of rule, unless meant for journies ofcouriers, which is possible enough.) But what is most to our point, is, that by the information he received, concerning the position of Walet, it appears to lie from Benowm, in the same line of direction whichpoints to Tombuctoo, when placed in 16½. Now, as Walet lies in the shortest route from Benowm to Tombuctoo, one might infer, of course, that it lies also thenearestto the line of direction towards Tombuctoo, of any of the places pointed out: and, I confess, I am strongly inclined to adopt the highest parallel, on this very account.

These alone, are the authorities for the position of Tombuctoo, derived from Mr. Park’s observations and inquiries; and which differ, as we have seen, no more than half a degree in the parallel: that is, from 16°, to 16°½. The reader may recollect, that these are very far indeed to the southward of those assigned to it, by M. D’Anville and myself, in former publications; as we mistook its position so far, as to place it between 19°, and 20°.

Before I proceed to state the authorities for its position, derived from the northern stations, it will be proper to compare the calculation of distance made by Mr. Park, with the reports of merchants and travellers; in order finally to deduce the longitude of Tombuctoo from the west; and afford a fair ground of comparison, between the authorities from the opposite quarters.

It has appeared that Sego,according to Mr. Park’s calculation, falls in latitude 14° 10′, longitude 2° 1′ west of Greenwich: and accordingly, the direct distance between it and Medina, the capital of Woolli, will be by this account 618 G. miles. Now, the merchants reckon 36 journies between them. The daily rate between Fezzan and Egypt having come out by construction 16,3[78]per day, on 53 days, and about 16¼ between Morocco and Jarra, on 50 days, I may venture to assume the highest of the two rates on 36 days; and this gives about 587, or only 31 short of Mr. Park’s result.

Again, between Fort St. Joseph and Tombuctoo, M. D’Anville (Mem. Insc. Vol. xxvi. p. 73.) allows 240 French leagues. These are rated at 2,64 G. miles, or 23¾ to a degree, on his scale; consequently there results a distance of 634 G. miles. M. Lalande (Afrique, p. 23.) allows 250 leagues, which give about 660 miles. Ben Ali went from St. Joseph to Tombuctoo, by way of Tisheet and Aroan, in forty-eight days. Thedetour may be taken at eight days more than the direct road (for Mr. Park furnishes the positions of Tisheet and Aroan very satisfactorily), whence 40 remain, which at 16,3, produce 652 miles.

Lastly, although the following be a very vague kind of computation, it may not altogether be useless. Major Houghton’s guide undertook to carry him to Tombuctoo, from Ferbanna in Bambouk, and to return again in ninety days. Ferbanna is much about the same distance, as St. Joseph, from Tombuctoo. Perhaps no more than ten days can well be allowed for rest and refreshment, and then forty days will be the length of the journey.

The mean of the three first reports, is about 649: and on the Map, the space between St. Joseph and Tombuctoo, according to Mr. Park’s result, is 667, or 18 more.

There is then, a difference of 31 only, on the accounts between Woolli and Sego: 18, between St. Joseph and Tombuctoo; both pointing to an excess, on the part of our traveller. I am however far from offering these results, on the ground of inducing a belief that suchsmall differencescan beascertainedby suchcoarsematerials; but rather to shew that in the general scope of the authorities, there was more of coincidence, than of disagreement, if the circumstances are rightly appreciated.

As it appears, however, that Mr. Park and Major Houghton formed different estimates of the distance between Medina and the river Falemé; and that the former exceeds by about 36 miles; and moreover, that on Mr. Park’s return by the southern route, he found by the number and scale of his journies, that he had allowed too great an extent to the space between the rivers Falemé and Gambia; I say, it clearly appears that an excess may be admitted in this part. It may be added, that, according to the report of the African travellers, at Pisania, concerning the arrangement of the journies, there is an excess on the west of Kasson; whilst the space on the east of it, agrees pretty well. Or, strictly speaking, perhaps the space is alittle under-rated on the east, andmuch over-rated on the west. If the mean of the differences between Pisania and Tombuctoo, Fort St. Joseph and Tombuctoo, 31, and 18, that is, 24 miles be taken off, the result will be satisfactory; as it agrees pretty well with the excess found in the southern route, on Mr. Park’s return.

This naturally leads me to the discussion of the position of Fort St. Joseph, as a point connecting the upper and lower part of the Senegal river: or in other words, the routes of the French,below, with those of the English, in theinteriorof the country.

The French report concerning this position also points to an excess of distance from the westward; even more than that arising from the difference between Mr. Park’s reckoning and the reports of the merchants; for it amounts to about 37 miles.

Could it be ascertained that a measured survey of the Senegal river, to the height of Fort St. Joseph, had been taken, as Labat says (Vol. ii. p. 157.) was actually done, by the order of the Sieur Brüe, this would settle the matter at once. Butcursorysurveys have so often been calledactualandmeasuredones, that one must be in possession of better authority, before the survey of the Senegal river can be relied on, as an absolute measure of distance. Nor is there, in the list of places in theCon. de Temps, any intimation of the longitude of St. Joseph by triangles, or measurement. Here follows a statement of the means used in fixing the position of this place.

M. D’Anville, in his map of the Senegal and Gambia rivers (1751) places St. Joseph 7° 44′ east of Ferro, which being in 17° 37′ west of Greenwich, Fort St. Joseph should be in 9° 53′. This is 32′ to the west of the position arising on Mr. Park’s route; which gives 9° 21′. But M. D’Anville supposes a difference of longitude of 6° 9′ 15″ only, between Fort St. Louis, at the mouth of the Senegal river, and Fort St. Joseph: and as I have followed M. Fleurieu’s ideas in placing St. Louis in 16° 8′ longitude, St. Joseph of course falls in 9° 59′, rejecting the seconds; making a difference of 37 G. miles, or 38 min. from Mr. Park; that is, 13 miles more than the mean of the differences between the authorities for the position of Tombuctoo.[79]

It is obvious, that as neither St. Louis nor Jillifrey, are exactly determined, in respect of Cape Verd, or of each other, it would be idle to attempt a critical adjustment of them; and therefore I have adopted the position arising from Mr. Park’s route, corrected by 24 miles, or 25 min. of longitude, more to the west; so that Fort St. Joseph stands in the map in lon. 9° 46′, lat. 14° 34′.

In consequence of this correction, all the eastern positions, Joag, Jarra, Sego, &c. must of courserecede25 minutes to the westward of the arrangement heretofore made, on the construction of Mr. Park’s geographical materials. Hence I place

I now proceed to state the reports of the distance to Tombuctoo, from the NW, N, and NE.

From Tatta[81]on the southern frontier of Morocco, 9½ journies to the SSE of the capital, (equal to 157 G. miles) the distance is 50 journies of the caravan, according to Mr. Matra.

From Mourzouk, the capital of Fezzan, (taken to be in latitude 27° 48′ and longitude 15° 3′ east, or directly south of Mesurata), 64 journies, according to the report of Ben Ali. And from Tunis, 77 journies, through Kabes and Gadamis, according to Mr. Magrah.

On the route between Mourzouk and Cairo, as well as between Morocco and Jarra, it has been already stated (p. xxxviii), that 16,3 and 16,25 were the mean rates: and the former was accordingly adopted between Woolli and Sego. At the same rate, the 50 days from Tatta, give 815 G. miles, and the 59½ from Morocco, 970. The 64 from Mourzouk give 1043; and the 77 from Tunis, 1255.

Now the above assumed position of Tombuctoo, falls exactly at the given distance from Morocco through Tatta; and 18 short of that from Fezzan (Mourzouk); but 61 beyond that from Tunis. The coincidence therefore of the three lines of distance from the Gambia, from Morocco and Fezzan, may be regarded as complete, since, in using the same rate nearly across the whole continent of Africa, from Cape Verd to Egypt, a difference of 18 miles only, arises. And hence, the public mind may well be satisfied at present respecting this important position. Whichsoever of the two determinations may be right, is of little consequence: but I hold it to be more prudent to adhere to that line which is the result of computation in detail, and corrected as above, than to the long lines given in the aggregate, and in which there is more risk of error. And thus I close the subject of the position of Tombuctoo; placing it in latitude 16° 30′, longitude 1° 33′ east of Greenwich.

Something, however, is proper to be said, concerning the rate of travelling adopted on the present occasion, as it differs materially from that allowed on long lines of distance, in the Proceedings of the Association, in 1790. I there allowed 16½ for a single day, but, diminished the rate according to thelengthof the lines of distance. It would appear that the proportion of diminution allowed, although proper enough in countries, where obstacles interpose to change the line of direction, is not applicable to that part of Africa, where the great Deserts are crossed in so straight a line, as hardly to increase thesimplewinding, arising on each day’s course, in any considerable degree; and that even thesimplewinding is less than elsewhere. And hence 16¼, or more, arises on the camel routes, on long lines of distance, across the Desert; and on the pilgrims’ routes, where it appears the camels travel with light burthens. It was through misconception of this rate, that I placed Tombuctoo, so far to the north. I am ignorant of the cause of M. D’Anville’s error.

The particulars of the geography between Silla and Tombuctoo, are copied exactly from Mr. Park’s map; and require but little elucidation. Jinné, a large town, is two short journies below Silla: and Tombuctoo, twelve still lower down. It would appear that all the journies were conceivedto beshort, as Mr. Park allows only 200 G. miles for the aggregate of the 14.

Two days below Jinné, the Joliba expands itself into a considerable lake, already mentioned by the name of Dibbie; from whence the river again issues in a number of streams. These unite at a lower point, and then formtwolarge branches, which separating widely from each other, form an island near 100 miles in length, whose name being Ginbala, or Jinbala, we recognize in it, the Guinbala country of M. D’Anville; as in the northern branch of the river that bounds it, the river of Guin, mistaken by him for the original head of the Tombuctoo river (or Niger); as he also mistook the lake of Dibbie for that of the Senegal river. Such were the errors in the African geography, to the date of theAfrican Association: one of which errors conducted theSenegalriver through 500 miles of the space which is, in reality, occupied by theNiger.

The position of Houssa will be adjusted in the map of Africa.

The important station of Tombuctoo, being adjusted, together with the positions dependent on it, I proceed with Mr. Park, on his return by the south, to his original point of outset in the west: taking it up at Sego, by which he passed in his way.

Along this line, an account of the bearings by compass was kept, as well as circumstances would permit, until the instrument was rendered useless, by robbers, near Sibidooloo. This was, however, the most important part of the route, as it lay along the side of the Joliba, the knowledge of whose course is, by this means, prolonged to about 350 British miles. Mr. Park moreover committed to paper, a tracing of its general windings; and obtained notices respecting the place of its source, during his long residence at Kamaliah, in the country of Manding, (commonly called Mandinga.)

Kamaliah is about 40 G. miles SW of Sibidooloo;[82]and to this place Mr. Park contrived to extend his line of bearings from Sego. He also learnt, that Jarra lay ten journies to the north-westward of Kamaliah; which agrees satisfactorily to the result from Sego, as it leaves 154 G.miles, for the ten journies; and Kamaliah itself falls in lat. 12° 46′; 227½ from Sego, in a direction of W 21 S; corrected by the allowance of 17° variation.

The town of Bammako, where the Joliba first becomes navigable (or perhaps to which point it is navigable upwards, in a continuous course from Tombuctoo), lies about fifty miles short of Kamaliah.[83]It is reckoned by the natives, ten journies only from Sego.[84]

At Kamaliah the source of the Joliba (or Niger), was pointed out to Mr. Park, at a bearing of south, a very little west, seven journies distant; and for these, he allows 108 G. miles. The name of the place is Sankary, and seems meant by the Songo of D’Anville; which, however, he supposed to be at the source of the Gambia river, in the kingdom of Mandinga. Such were the crude ideas heretofore entertained of this geography.

Here it may be proper to mention, that Mr. Park, whilst at Kooniakarry, in Kasson, in his way out, meditated a route to the south-eastward, through Kasson, Fooladoo, and Manding; which route was to have brought him to the Joliba in twenty days. The place on the Joliba is not mentioned: possibly it might be Yamina. This route, however, he was not permitted to take. Had he pursued it, his personal sufferings might probably have been less; but our knowledge of the geography would probably have been less, also.

It has been mentioned, that the space between Jarra and Kamaliah, is checked by the report of the road distance between them. It is proper also to state, as a further proof of the consistency of the respective positions of Jarra and Kong, that the distance across, agrees generally with the report of the Shereef Imhammed, who says, that Yarba, (meant for Yarra, or Jarra,) is eighteen to twenty days journey to the NW of Gonjah, meaning Kong. (Proc. Af. Assoc. chap. xii.) Mr. Park was told thatKong, was ten journies to the southward, or SSW of Sego; and he saw a part of the great ridge ofblue mountainsof Kong, as he coasted the Niger westward. These notices agree well with the Shereef’s report.

Between Kamaliah and Woolli, there is yet a greater degree of uncertainty respecting thedatafor the geographical construction; for in this long line of near 400 geographical miles, the line of direction is collected from the places of the sun and stars; the compass being useless, whilst the traveller was in motion. Besides, the rapidity of the march, and the height of the woods, were unfavourable to any attempts of that kind, had bodily fatigue and hunger, left him either the inclination or the ability: for, in effect, it was one long forced march through the Jallonka Wilderness, under the terrors of famine, or being left behind to perish, by wild beasts.

Under such circumstances, it was full as much as could reasonably be expected, to obtain some general idea of the line of direction, on which he travelled; together with the proportional lengths of the several intervals, by keeping an account of the time; leaving theabsolute scaleto be determined by the extent of the space. In this, he succeeded so well, that the middle part of the line, when produced to the capital of Woolli, appears to be no more than half a point out of the bearing; as is shewn by Labat’s map of Bambouk (Vol. iv. p. 92), in which the course of the river of Falemé, which Mr. Park crossed in his way home, as well as out, is described; and affords much assistance in adjusting his position on that river, on his return.

It is first necessary to state, that M. D’Anville, in his map of Senegal, &c. (1751) has totally disregarded the scale of Labat’s map, as well as most of the bearings in it; having preferred to it some other authority; perhaps some tracing of the two rivers. M. D’Anville allows no more than thirty-seven geographical miles between the two passes Naye and Kayee on the Falemé and Senegal rivers; when Mr. Park allows sixty-two. Now Labat’s scale agrees with the latter: for he allows 28¾ French leagues for this interval, equal to 2,16 geographical miles per league, according to Mr. Park’s calculation. The leagues were therefore probably of road measure: as a league in direct distance appears to be equal to 2,64. Hence M. D’Anville, seems to have misconceived the matter; and has applied the same erroneous scale to thecourse of the Falemé river, upwards; which he has shortened by about twenty-six geographical miles; carrying that part no higher than to latitude 13°, which by the original (or rather the proportioned) scale, should be extended to 12° 34′.

This Map of Labat, then, gives the position of Ferbanna on the Falemé river;[85]as also the southern boundaries of Bondou and Bambouk, with other particulars. Mr. Park, when at the pass of the Falemé river, between Satadoo and Medina,[86]obtained some general notices concerning his position, in respect of the above points. For he learnt that Ferbanna (Tenda) lay at some distance lower down the river: that Bondou (by the account of a fellow-traveller who was on his way thither) lay six journies to the northward; and he learnt also the general position of Bambouk. To this may be added, that he kept on his right hand (to the N), and even touched the foot of it at Dindikoo, a ridge of mountains, answering to that which, in Labat’s map, crosses the FaleméaboveFerbanna; and which is also found precisely at the corresponding point, with Dindikoo. Moreover, it preserves in Labat, the same distance from the southern boundary of Bambouk, as that seen by Park. And finally, it appears, by the description of the southern route pointed out by the King of Bambouk (see Mem. 1793, p. 11.), that Mr. Park passed to thesouthwardof Ferbanna, and yetnot farfrom it. For the king’s road from Ferbanna (Tenda) led eastward, through Concoudou (the Konkodoo of Park, a province) as also through Silloumana, Gangaran, Gadou, and Manding. Now there is every reasonable proof that (bating Ferbanna) this is the very route by which Mr. Park returned. His route went through Gangaran (Gankaran), on the one hand, Konkodoo on the other. Sillou-Mana is very probably intended for Kullo-Manna,[87]a famous pass over theBlack River,or main stream of the Senegal, where a bridge of a very singular construction is thrown across occasionally, for the use of the caravans. It is unlikely that bridges should occur attwoplaces in the southern route, and more particularly as the one at Manna is placed there, because the steep rocky banks, and narrow channel of the river, are peculiarly adapted to that kind of bridge.

It may therefore be concluded, that from Konkodoo, the king’s road, instead of turning to the SW to Satadoo, leads straight on to the westward to Ferbanna, and thence into the Woolli road, either at Baneserile or Kirwanny; being a branch, only, of the great southern road, leading directly across the mountains; whilst the other makes a bend to the south, to avoid them; which bend, according to Mr. Park’s description of his route, is so much like that in Labat’s map above Ferbanna, that I cannot help suspecting the Dambanna of Labat to be meant for the Dindikoo of Mr. Park. I return to the construction of the route.

Ferbanna, in Labat, is placed 33 leagues on a bearing of S 11° E from Cacullo, another pass on the same river Falemé, in latitude 13° 54′, by Major Houghton’s observation: and which is about 20 miles south of Naye, where Mr. Park crossed it in his way out. The 33 leagues according to theproportionalscale furnished by Mr. Park’s route (2,16 each) give 71¼ G. miles for the distance of Ferbanna from Cacullo: or latitude 12° 46′. From this point, Labat describes the course of the river 24 miles higher up, in a SE by E direction. About this place, we may suppose that Mr. Park crossed the Falemé on his return; since it agrees with the circumstances of the mountains, the bend of the road above described, and the distance of Bambouk and Bondou; to which may be added, the general accordance of the bearing from Manding. Medina, a village, stood on the west bank of the Falemé, at the pass; and Satadoo, the capital of the province, at two miles to the eastward of it. It is certain that neither Satadoo, nor Konkodoo, appear in Labat’s map. In that, Macanna is the name of the country bordering on the south of Bambouk; but Mr. Park calls it Konkodoo, which means thecountry of mountains; and appears very characteristic. (These mountains extend through Bambouk and Kasson, and are productive in gold.) Again, Combregoudou in Labat, occupies the places of Satadoo and Dentila in Mr. Park’s descriptions:and we must therefore conclude, that either these countries have more than one name, or have changed their names in the course of the century.

On the whole, it cannot well be doubted that the adjustment of the southern route, to the northern, in this place, is tolerably exact; and it is indeed a matter of the first importance to the geography. One circumstance is very much in its favour: at Kirwanny on this route Mr. Park was told, that the course of the Gambia river lay three journies southward, or one journey within the boundary of Foota-Jallo: and Dr. Afzelius was informed, that the same river runs at the distance of four journies from the mountains which skirt the Rio Grande on the north-east. These notices accord perfectly with the relative positions of Kirwanny, and the course of the Rio Grande, which are about 112 G. miles asunder, on the construction.

This adjustment, moreover, goes as well to the proportioning of the longitudinal distance, on the line between Kamaliah and Woolli, by means of the course of the river Falemé, extended from a known point in the northern route.

On Mr. Park’s original map, I find 201 G. miles on that portion of the southern line, east of the Falemé river; 181 on the west: whilst the respective intervals on my construction, are 211, and 185. But Mr. Park observed, that there was a greater portion of distance to be travelled through, on his return, than he had expected. His reckoning was, according to the sea phrase,ahead of the ship: which was, no doubt, occasioned by his omitting to take the variation of the compass into the account, after he had lost his sextant at Jarra.

It appears on the examination of his journal, that between the river Falemé and Baraconda, in Woolli (a few miles short of Medina), they employed nine whole days, and part of a tenth; a great part of which journey lay through the wildernesses of Tenda and Simbani. Six of the days are remarked to be eitherlongorvery long: and one in particular was avery hard day’s work. Allowing six miles for the fraction of the day, the nine whole ones require 19 G. miles of direct distance, each: and as the road diverged considerably from thedirect line(to the southward, falling in with the Gambia pretty high up) they may be taken somewhat higher. The fiveforced marches through the Jallonka wilderness are also calculated at 19 each, direct: and which may produce 25 road miles: I should conceive those through the Tenda and Simbani wildernesses to be equal to 26, at a medium; and some of them more than 30.[88]

Thus I have brought the grand outline of Mr. Park’s Geography to a conclusion; and cannot do otherwise than sympathize with him in his feelings, when he arrived at “the hospitable door ofDr.Laidley,” at Pisania, after an absence of eighteen months, unheard of, during the whole time; whether enjoying the triumphs of exploring new paths; whether pining in hopeless captivity, amongst the barbarous Moors of Jarra; or fostered by the kind hands of Mandinga Negroes.

It remains that something should be said regarding the connection of Mr. Park’s Geography with that of Labat, between the rivers Senegal and Falemé; as well as concerning the positions of thefallsof the Senegal river.

Labat’s scale has already been adjusted to Mr. Park’s, inp. xlv,where 2,16 G. miles were found equivalent to one of Labat’s leagues, in direct distance.

Kayee, the pass on the Senegal river, where Mr. Park crossed it, is given at 16⅔ leagues above Fort St. Joseph, in Labat’s Map, (Vol. iv. p. 92.) and the falls of F’low (Felou in Labat), 5½ still higher up. Kayee may therefore be taken at 36 miles, and F’low 48, above St. Joseph; the bearing apoint or moreto the southward of east.

F’low is thelowerfall, (below which the river continues navigable generally, to the sea,) and Govinea, theupperfall. The distance between them is very differently represented, by different persons; but I believe, is from 12 to 14 leagues, perhaps 30 G. miles, direct. It is true that Labat says,in more than one place,[89]that they are 40 leagues asunder; but as his Map (in Vol. iv. p. 92.) has less than 12 leagues; and as M. P. D. also says (p. 78.) 12 leagues: and as, moreover, the King of Kasson’s residence is said to bemidway betweenthe two falls; and that residence appearing to be Kooniakarry, a place visited by Mr. Park; and which is no more than about 22′ from the lower fall, and at 13′ distant from the north bank of the river; it cannot well be otherwise than that the two falls are within 30 G. miles of each other. And hence it may be concluded, thatquatorzeand notquarante, was in the original manuscript.

The distance between Kooniakarry and the Senegal river, 13 miles, points to a WNW course, or thereabouts, of the river between the falls; not much different from its general course, lower down. But as the Ba-fing, or principal arm of this river, must run almost directly to the north, from the place where Mr. Park crossed it, in Jallonkadoo, it is highly probable, that the two great branches unite at no great distance above the upper fall; for the same ridge of mountains that occasions the fall, may, perhaps, occasion a junction of the different streams above it.

These falls are said by Labat to be from 30 to 40toisesperpendicular; or 180 to 240 French feet. We must recollect that P. Hinnepen states the fall of Niagara at 600 feet, which subsequent accounts have reduced to 150.[90]The reader will, however, find very curious descriptions of these falls, and of the river itself, in Labat, Vol. ii. p. 156, 160.

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