CHAPTER VI.

The Subject continued — Course of the River Niger, at large — has no Communication with the Nile — Ptolemy’s Description of it consistent.

Thecourse of theNiger(orJoliba) as we have seen, is established, by ocular demonstration, as far asSilla; and may, I conceive, beadmitted, as far asHoussa, about 400 miles farther to the east, on the foundation of the information collected by Mr. Park; since it agrees with the ideas communicated to Mr. Beaufoy, by an intelligent Moorish merchant, who had navigated the river: and as it agrees no less with the report of Mr. Magrah, obtained from Moorish merchants at Tunis; and of Major Houghton from Bambouk. Thus, the first 700 G. miles of its course arefromWesttoEast; or rather from WSW to ENE. There remains then, a space ofmorethan double that distance, between Houssa and the nearest part of the Egyptian Nile, near Dongola: and yet more, to the known parts of the White river, or Abiad, the SW branch of the Nile.

I shall divide the matter respecting the course of this river, into three heads. 1. Respecting the continuity of its waters, from Houssa on the west, to Wangara on the east; without regard to the direction of the stream. 2. Respecting the positive direction of the stream. And, 3, concerning its termination.

Edrisi gives the most positive information concerning the course of the Niger, or Nile of the Negroes, from east to west; deriving it from the same lake through which the Egyptian Nile passes; and describing it to terminate at 16 journies west of Sala (that is, a little to the west of the position occupied by Tombuctoo); and near the supposed island of Ulil before mentioned.[137]He thus cuts off about 1000 miles of the breadth of Africa. Thiswas an error common to all the ancient geographers, as well as to those of Arabia: for Ptolemy places the mouth of the Senegal river only two degrees more to the west, than Edrisi does that of the Niger.

Abulfeda believed, with Edrisi, that the Niger had a common source with the Nile, and ran westward.[138]

It is certain, that theseopinionsfurnish noproofsof continuity of course: but it may be supposed that there was some foundation for them; especially as Edrisi says, that salt was carried upon the Niger in boats from the island of Ulil, and distributed to the people on its banks, from Sala to Wangara, and Kauga.[139]

Mr. Matra was told[140]that from Kabra, the port of Tombuctoo, “people sometimes travelledalong the riverthe space of 40 days, to Ginny (Ghana) a large city;” &c.

The Moorish merchant, with whom Mr. Beaufoy conversed, and whom he speaks of as a clear and intelligent man, says, “That the country ofGuineaor Ginny, is on thesame riverwithHoussa.” (Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS.)

Edrisi, besides mentioning the cities of Sala, Tokrur, Berissa, Ghana, and Ghanara, all of which he says are situated on the Niger, remarks that thecountry of Wangara, to which Ghanara belongs, issurroundedby that river,[141]as it would appear by means of a subdivision of its waters; for Gatterer says, that Ghanara, one of its cities, stands on thewesternarm of the Guin,[142]by which name he mentions the Niger; of which more presently. Now, as Wangara extends, according to Edrisi, 300Arabicmiles along the river,[143]this extent, together with the distance of Wangara from Ghana, eight journies,[144]or 152 miles, makes up 496 G. miles of the course of this river, eastward from Ghana; which being itself 500 miles east of Houssa, there will be 969 miles indirectdistance, traced eastward of Houssa: or on the whole, as Houssa is 700 miles below the source, about 1670 G.miles of water-course from the head of the Niger, above Manding, to the eastern extremity of Wangara!

In addition to these authorities, I may state from Leo, that the people of Tombuctoo convey their merchandize in boats (or rather canoes) to Ginea,by the Niger: and that at Kabra they embark for Melli, also. But it is proper to be noticed, that he says (p. 249), that this communication with Ginea takes place in therainy season only(July, August, September), which would imply a deficiency of water for navigation, at other seasons.[145]Leo, however, certainly never saw the Niger, although he seems to report himself an eye-witness of many particulars relating to it. His intelligence is therefore often to be suspected; though it has probably happened, that being regarded as an original author, instead of a compiler, he has given weight to the systems of Edrisi and Abulfeda, respecting the course of the Niger.

Gatterer, as I have hinted before, calls the Niger, Guin, as well at Tokrur and Ghana, as at Wangara.[146]Now we learn from Mr. Park, that the northern branch of the Niger, above Tombuctoo, passes by the town of Jinbala, and collect also from Labat, that it is named theriver of Guin: and here we have the same name extended even to Wangara; a presumptive proof of the prolongation of the same river!

Edrisi speaks of the same Niger, or Nile of the Negroes,[147]also, at Kauga, 10 journies to the east of Wangara; from which we collect that he must have supposed, that thisemanationof the Egyptian Nile (as he supposed it to be) first ran to the north, and then turned to the west, through Nigritia. And if any consequence can be deduced from his account of the conveyance of salt, along the Niger to Kauga, where the catalogue of places supplied, ends, we should conclude that he supposed the navigable part of the river,endedat Kauga.

Although there can be no question thatariver namedNile(or ratherNeel), passes through the quarter of Kauga, Angimi, &c. since Edrisi,Abulfeda, and Leo, speak of it, yet it would be advancing too far within the region of conjecture, in this place, to attempt todecidewhether it has any communication with the western waters. I shall therefore reserve this discussion till the last; that it may not be allowed to have any weight in the decision of the great question concerning the continuity and direction of the Niger. Having therefore, as I conceive, established the fact of acontinuationof the waters from Manding to Wangara, I shall next proceed to inquire into the authorities for the direction of the stream.

Ocular demonstration has shewn, that its course is to theeastward, as far as Silla: and no reasonable doubt can be entertained that it continues the same course to Houssa, 400 miles farther to the eastward, even if the information communicated to Mr. Park, could be doubted. For the Moorish merchant before quoted, told Mr. Beaufoy, that he had himselfdescendedthe Joliba, from Kabra to Houssa, although he had forgot the exact number of days employed in the navigation; and whether it was 8 or 10 days, (Mr. Park was told 11). But one circumstance dwelt on his mind; which was, that “by the favour of a brisk wind, they returned to Kabra,against the stream, in as short an interval as they went down.” (This is no new fact to those who are accustomed to inland navigations, even of the natural kind.)

The same Moor added, “that from Houssa,going still with the stream, boats went to Jinnee[148]and Ghinea; near the latter of which was thesea, into which theNeel(or Niger) discharged itself.” That this Ghinea lies to the eastward of Houssa and Tombuctoo, has been already shewn; and that at the distance of 40 land journies.

Edrisi says that the navigation from Ghana to Tirka (which latter is in the way to Wangara, admitted by the same authority to lie to the east of Ghana[149])iswith the streamof the Niger:[150]and if this be true, it ought unquestionably to have the same direction all the way from Houssa.

To these notices, of which the most full and positive, is that of an intelligent person who had visited the spot; are to be opposed the reports of Edrisi and Abulfeda, who wrote at a distance, and from the information of others. As to Leo, although hisdeclarationis in favour of the two Arabian geographers, yet his authority loses all its weight, by his saying that the river runs to thewest, by Tombuctoo; a fact which, I presume, no one will be hardy enough to contend for. And it will be found, that hisdescriptionsdo most completely do away hisdeclaration: so that his testimony is turned against himself by the very context. For after saying that it runstowardsthe kingdoms of Ginea and Melli, he says also that they lie to thewest, in respect of Tombuctoo. Now the contrary has already been made apparent, inpage lxv,et seq.; so that in fact, Leo’s descriptions go rather to prove, that the course of the Niger is to theeast, than to thewest. But after all, his descriptions are the result of hearsay, rather than of observation: and it is plain, that his idea of the course of the Niger, was regulated by the supposed situation of the countries it ran through. Nor had he in his mind the Coast of Guinea, according to our acceptation of the term, when he spoke of the country of Ginea: for in his description of Nigritia he says, that theseaon thesouth, was unknown[151]to him. Thus the testimonies appear to be clearly in favour of aneasterlycourse of the Niger from Houssa to Wangara. I next proceed to the question respecting its termination.

Mr. Beaufoy’s Moor farther says, that “below Ghinea, is thesea, into which the river of Tombuctoo disembogues itself.” This may therefore be considered as theprevailing ideaat Houssa and Tombuctoo, at which placeshe had resided, altogether, about 12 years. By the wordsea, it is well known, the Arabs mean to express a lake also; (and even sometimes a river.) Edrisi and others describe large lakes in Ghana and Wangara.[152]And when Leo says that the Niger falls into theseawhichbordersonGinea, it is not improbable that the lakes of Ghana and Wangara are meant; and that he was under the same mistakehere, in supposing Ginea to be in the neighbourhood of the sea, as in what relates to the position of Ginea itself. In other words, that hearing from the natives, that the Niger expanded itself into lakesbelow Ghana(or Ginea), he supposed the western ocean to be meant. For it appears (p. 2.) thathe had heard, that the Niger had its source in the mountains on thewest, and running thence to theeast, expanded itself finally into a vast lake: but misled by the supposed situation of Ginea and Melli, he disregarded the information.

He also describes Ginea to be a country annually overflowed by the waters of the Niger, but omits to say the same of Wangara, to which the description more particularly applies. It may be, that as Wangara in more early times formed a part of the empire of Ghana (or Ginea), his ideas might have been collected from some history of those times. I therefore consider his description of Ginea (p. 248), to include both Ghana and Wangara.

Edrisi describes three largefresh waterlakes in Wangara, and one in Ghana.[153]The description of Wangara appears to be that of analluvialcountry, environed and intersected by the branches of the Niger, and annually overflowed in August. Perhaps August was the time of the highest flood: for Leo says that Ginea (apply this to Wangara, also) is overflowed in July, August, and September; which is indeed the season of swelling of the rivers of the tropical regions, generally.[154]

From this description may be inferred the verylow levelof the countries of Ghana and Wangara; which level or hollow forms a receptacle for the surplus waters of the Niger, collected during the rainy season:[155]and whosepermanentlakes, apparently form receptacles for its waters, during the dry season also. The country of Wangara alone, is said by Edrisi and Ibn Al Wardi to have an extent of 300 miles by 150 (i.e.Arabic miles, of 56⅔ to a degree); and Edrisi’s statement of the distances through it, proves that its length lies in the same direction with the course of the Niger; that is, fromwesttoeast[156]Now I have no kind of difficulty in supposing thatanyriver may be evaporated, provided it is spread out to a sufficient extent of surface: and it may be that the level, or hollow, of Wangara and part of Ghana, may present an extent of surface sufficient to produce this effect.[157]And hence these countries must be regarded as thesinkof North Africa, at all seasons. No doubt the inhabitants are amply repaid by the fertility produced by the deposition of the waters: but besides this, in the southern quarter of Wangara, they collect an incredible quantity of gold sand, after the waters are gone off, which is carefully sought after, as soon as the rivers regain their beds.[158]

It may be proper to observe, that, according to the estimation which we ought to make, of the quantity of water collected into the Niger, it ought not to bear a proportion to that, collected into the great tropical rivers of Asia; since it receives no branches, but ononeside. Of course, it does not drain so great a surface of country, as those which receive them on both sides. Moreover it drains only the tract situated toleewardof the great chain of mountains, which opposes the main body of the clouds; so that more water is discharged by the south, by the rivers of the Coast of Guinea, than by theinlandrivers; or by those of Senegal and Gambia.

Ben Ali reported to Mr. Beaufoy, that “it was believed, that the Tombuctoo riverterminatedin alakein the Desert.”

On the whole, it can scarcely be doubted that the Joliba or Niger terminates in lakes, in the eastern quarter of Africa; and those lakes seem to be situated in Wangara and Ghana. That it does not form theupper partof the Egyptian Nile, may be collected fromtwocircumstances: first, the greatdifferenceoflevelthat must necessarily exist, between the Niger and the Nile, admitting that the Niger reached the country of Abyssinia. For by that time, it would have run at least 2300 G. miles, in a direct line; and near 2000, after it haddescendedto thelevelof Sahara, or Great Desert. And the Nile, at the point where the White River (which, alone can be taken for the Niger, if the idea of a junction be admitted) falls in, has more than a thousand such miles to run, before it reaches the sea; and has moreover two or morecataractsto descend, in its way. Besides, Abyssinia is positively avery elevated tract. Mr. Bruce, (Vol. iii. p. 642.) inferred from his barometer, that the level of the source of the Nile, in Gojam, was more thantwomiles above the level of the sea: and this is repeated in pages 652, and 712; where he says “fully” two miles.

Again, in p. 719, he says, that theflatcountry of Sennar ismore than a milelower than the high country of Abyssinia, from whence (says he) the Nile runs with “little descent” into Egypt. Hence, the country of Sennar, and the mouth of the White River, of course, may be reckonedabout a mile, above the level of the sea. It may however be asked, how this agrees with the idea of an easy descent?[159]

The second circumstance is, that the Niger throughout the tract of Nigritia, in common with all the rivers of that region, swells with the periodical rains, and is at itshighest pitch, when the Nile is under the like circumstances in Egypt. Now, considering how long a time it would require, for the waters of Nigritia to reach Egypt, the effect ought surely to be, thatinstead of what happens, at present, the Nile ought to be kept up to nearly its highest pitch,a very long timeafter the Niger.

Nor can I believe with P. Sicard and M. D’Anville, that the waters of Kauga and Bornou communicate with the river of Egypt. P. Sicard, it appears, had learnt from anativeof Bornou, that the river which passed the capital ofhiscountry, communicated with theNile, during the time of the inundation, by the medium of theBahr Azrac, or Blue River.[160]M. D’Anville supposed thisNileto be meant for the river of Egypt; and the communication to be effected by the medium of the lake of Kauga; and that it flowed into the White River opposite Sennar. But the space of several hundred miles, which intervenes between this lake and the White River, is very unfavourable to such an opinion; even if thelevelscould be supposed to allow it. I rather conceive, that Sicard, not aware of the extensive application of the termNeel, orNile(which in Africa seems to mean any great river), concluded that the river of Egypt alone, could be intended; whereas, I have no doubt but that the river which passes near Kauga and Angimi, was meant: (no matter whether it joins the Niger, or otherwise;) for Edrisi says, that Angimi, in Kanem, situated near the borders of Nubia, is only three journies from theNile(implied to bethatof theNegroes, that is, theNiger).[161]But Angimi must be more than 20 journies to the westward of Dongola, situated on the Egyptian Nile; for Zagua is 20 journies from Dongola to thewest,[162]and Angimi 6 from Zagua,[163]in a direction, which at least,increasesthe distance. Besides, a river of the name ofNile, orNeel, passes by Kauga,[164]which is 30 days to the south-westward of Dongola: and apparently about six from Angimi. Doubtless, this is the Nile intended by the informant of P. Sicard; and can have no relation to the Egyptian Nile, otherwise than inname.

But in the notices respecting thewesterncourse of a river, or rivers, from the confines of Nubia, Bornou, &c. I think I perceive abundant reason for belief, that such a course of waters does really exist; although perhaps, not exactly in the mode described.[165]There are notices of a considerable river in Bornou (or Kanem) called the Wad-al-Gazel, or River of the Antelopes, said to join the Nile during the time of the inundations:[166]of another at Kuku, more to the north, said to take its coursesouthward, to the Nile.[167]Also, ofaNile near Angimi and Kauga, before spoken of. And finally, Edrisi[168]says, that a branch of the Egyptian Nile, issuing from the great lake at Tumi, in the south, forms the head of the Niger, or Nile of the Negroes.[169]

Here it is well worth remarking, that Ptolemy describes a branch springing from the SE about the parallel of 10°, and amongst theNubi, which branch flows into theGir, a river distinct from the Niger, and appearing to answer to the river of Bornou, &c. This accords exactly with Edrisi’s idea; only that it doesnotflow from thesame lakeas the Nile, separated from it only by a mountain. But M. D’Anville, in my idea, interprets very fairly the scope of the intelligence furnished by Edrisi, by supposing that thesourcesof the two rivers (or thecoursesof them) wereseparatedonly by a ridge of mountains.[170]

Leo says, that the head of the Niger is within 120 miles of the country of Bornou, and in the Desert of Seu:[171]but these notices must be regarded as extremely vague.

Certain it is, that if theeastern watersofNigritiado not run into theNile (of which, in our idea, there does not appear a shadow of probability) they must either be evaporated in lakes, or lost in sands. The lake of Kauga offers itself in a position very convenient for the purpose, and a river taken by Edrisi for the Niger, is actually said to pass near it. It has also been shewn, that in the idea of Edrisi, the Kauga lake communicated with thewesternwaters: but whether this is true, or otherwise, it is not possible to decide.

I do not pretend to follow Ptolemy in his description of the rivers in the interior of Africa, with that precision which M. D’Anville has attempted: butthiscircumstance is clear enough, that he describes them toterminate, as well as tobegin,withinthe continent. The same is to be said of Agathemerus.

It is apparent, that Ptolemy has carried the head of the Niger seven degrees too far to thenorth, and about four, or more, too far to thewest: as also that hisinlandpositions in Africa, as well along the Niger, as at a distance from it, are yetmoreto the west of the truth. But notwithstanding this geographical error, he proves that he knew many facts relating to the descriptive part of the subject. For instance, he places the source of the Niger, at the mountains ofMandrus, and amongst the nation of theMandori. It has been seen, that the Joliba rises in the country adjacent to Manding. He marks also a large adjunct to the Niger, from amongst theMaurali, in the south, answering to the river from Malel (or Melli) in Edrisi. To these may be added another particular of agreement. TheCaphasmountains of Ptolemy seem meant for those ofKaffaba, a country 9 or 10 journies to the eastward of Kong; 18 short of Assentai (or Ashantee) near the Coast of Guinea.[172]But I have a doubt where to place Ptolemy’s metropolis of Nigritia, in modern geography. His ideas, however, corroborate in the strongest manner, the present system of geography.

Amongst the eastern waters, theGirof Ptolemy, seems to be recognized in the river of Bornou, and its adjuncts: the Niger, in that of Tombuctoo and Wangara. ThePanagraof the same geographer answers to Wangara; and hisLibya Palus, which forms theterminationof the Niger,eastward, seems to be meant, either for the largest of the lakes, or for the lakes of that country (of which there are several),collectively. It is no impeachment of this opinion, that theLibya Palusis placed so far to the west as the meridian of Carthage, whilst the lakes of Wangara appear to be in that of Cyrene: for Ptolemy carries the river Gir, and the capital of the country which represents Bornou, into the centre of Africa; by which he hasshortenedthe course of the Niger, in the same proportion as he hadextendedthat of the Gir, or Wad-al-Gazel. Modern geographers, to the time of D’Anville, were guilty of the same kind of error: Ghana is about 6° too far west, in Delisle’s map.

It may be best to omit any farther remarks on Ptolemy, at present, and to wait the result of future discoveries. In the mean time, those who are curious to read M. D’Anville’s Memoir on the subject of “the Rivers in the interior of Africa,” will find it in the Mém. Acad. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi.

[137]Page 7 of Edrisi.[138]ArticleSoudan.[139]Edrisi, page 7.[140]Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS.[141]Edrisi, p. 7. 11. and 12.[142]Hartmann’s Edrisi, p. 48, notes.[143]Edrisi, p. 11.[144]Ib. p. 11.[145]If this report of Leo has anyparticular meaning, and as the river in question carries a great body of water at all seasons, one must suppose that there arefallsorrapids, in the river, when in its low state. Time may discover.[146]Hartmann, p. 32, 48, 51.[147]Edrisi, p. 7, and 13.[148]It is certain that one city of Jinné or Jinnee standsaboveTombuctoo and Houssa.[149]Edrisi, p. 9, 11, and 12.[150]Sionita, p. 12, translates the passage thus: “Via cursum Nili comitante.” And Hartmann, p. 51, “Nilum sequere.”D’Herbelot understood the same thing; articleVankara.[151]Leo, p. 2.[152]Edrisi, p. 10, 12, 13.[153]See Edrisi, p. 10, 11, 12, 13.[154]Ib. p. 11,et seq.Hartmann, p. 47,et seq.[155]And that probably, not only for the western waters, alone, but for theeasternalso.[156]Refer to Edrisi, p. 12, and 13; and topage lxabove.[157]There are many instances of this kind. In particular theHindmend, orHeermund, a very considerable river ofSigistan, terminates in the lake of Zurrah (Aria Palus). The lake is about 100 miles long, and 20 broad, at the widest part; and is said to befresh. The country it flows through, has all the characteristics of the alluvial tracts, at the mouths of great rivers; as Egypt, Bengal, &c. and is environed by mountains. This was the celebrated tract which is said to have formed theappanageofRustum; and whose inhabitants, from the relief they afforded toCyrus, were namedEuergetæby Alexander.[158]Edrisi, p. 12. D’Herbelot, article Vankara.[159]Mr. Bruce mentions eight cataracts of the Nile; of which,twoonly arebelowSennar. (Vol. iii. p. 644,et seq.) M. D’Anville marksthreewithin the same space. The principal cataracts are those formed by the abrupt descent from theupperlevel of Gojam, to theintermediateone of Sennar; one of them being 280 feet. (See page 647.)[160]Mém. Acad. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 67.Azrac, orblue, is a term applied to certain rivers, by the Arabs, asMelas, orblack, by the Greeks. It is applied in Abyssinia to the eastern branch of the Nile, seemingly in contradistinction to theBahr Abiad, orWhiteRiver; whose waters aremuddy, whilst those of the other are remarkablyclear.[161]Edrisi, p. 14.[162]Abulfeda, article Soudan.[163]Edrisi, p. 14.[164]Edrisi. p. 7.[165]I am aware that Mr. Beaufoy was told that the river of Bornou runs to the NW, into the Desert of Bilma. [Af. Assoc. Q. p. 142: O. 215.][166]D’Anville, Mém. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 67.[167]Edrisi, p. 13.[168]Ib. p. 16.[169]It appears that a report of the same kind was communicated to Mr. Beaufoy; namely, that a branch of theEgyptianNileruns intothe Desert of Bilma. (Af. Assoc. Q. p. 138: O. p. 209.) There does not, however, appear to be any foundation for believing that the Nile sends forth any branch above Egypt. All the notices of this kind may with more probability, be referred to a communication with the waters ofKauga.[170]Mém. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 66.[171]Page 2. 255.[172]Af. Assoc. 1790, ch. xii.

[137]Page 7 of Edrisi.

[138]ArticleSoudan.

[139]Edrisi, page 7.

[140]Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS.

[141]Edrisi, p. 7. 11. and 12.

[142]Hartmann’s Edrisi, p. 48, notes.

[143]Edrisi, p. 11.

[144]Ib. p. 11.

[145]If this report of Leo has anyparticular meaning, and as the river in question carries a great body of water at all seasons, one must suppose that there arefallsorrapids, in the river, when in its low state. Time may discover.

[146]Hartmann, p. 32, 48, 51.

[147]Edrisi, p. 7, and 13.

[148]It is certain that one city of Jinné or Jinnee standsaboveTombuctoo and Houssa.

[149]Edrisi, p. 9, 11, and 12.

[150]Sionita, p. 12, translates the passage thus: “Via cursum Nili comitante.” And Hartmann, p. 51, “Nilum sequere.”D’Herbelot understood the same thing; articleVankara.

[150]Sionita, p. 12, translates the passage thus: “Via cursum Nili comitante.” And Hartmann, p. 51, “Nilum sequere.”

D’Herbelot understood the same thing; articleVankara.

[151]Leo, p. 2.

[152]Edrisi, p. 10, 12, 13.

[153]See Edrisi, p. 10, 11, 12, 13.

[154]Ib. p. 11,et seq.Hartmann, p. 47,et seq.

[155]And that probably, not only for the western waters, alone, but for theeasternalso.

[156]Refer to Edrisi, p. 12, and 13; and topage lxabove.

[157]There are many instances of this kind. In particular theHindmend, orHeermund, a very considerable river ofSigistan, terminates in the lake of Zurrah (Aria Palus). The lake is about 100 miles long, and 20 broad, at the widest part; and is said to befresh. The country it flows through, has all the characteristics of the alluvial tracts, at the mouths of great rivers; as Egypt, Bengal, &c. and is environed by mountains. This was the celebrated tract which is said to have formed theappanageofRustum; and whose inhabitants, from the relief they afforded toCyrus, were namedEuergetæby Alexander.

[158]Edrisi, p. 12. D’Herbelot, article Vankara.

[159]Mr. Bruce mentions eight cataracts of the Nile; of which,twoonly arebelowSennar. (Vol. iii. p. 644,et seq.) M. D’Anville marksthreewithin the same space. The principal cataracts are those formed by the abrupt descent from theupperlevel of Gojam, to theintermediateone of Sennar; one of them being 280 feet. (See page 647.)

[160]Mém. Acad. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 67.Azrac, orblue, is a term applied to certain rivers, by the Arabs, asMelas, orblack, by the Greeks. It is applied in Abyssinia to the eastern branch of the Nile, seemingly in contradistinction to theBahr Abiad, orWhiteRiver; whose waters aremuddy, whilst those of the other are remarkablyclear.

[161]Edrisi, p. 14.

[162]Abulfeda, article Soudan.

[163]Edrisi, p. 14.

[164]Edrisi. p. 7.

[165]I am aware that Mr. Beaufoy was told that the river of Bornou runs to the NW, into the Desert of Bilma. [Af. Assoc. Q. p. 142: O. 215.]

[166]D’Anville, Mém. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 67.

[167]Edrisi, p. 13.

[168]Ib. p. 16.

[169]It appears that a report of the same kind was communicated to Mr. Beaufoy; namely, that a branch of theEgyptianNileruns intothe Desert of Bilma. (Af. Assoc. Q. p. 138: O. p. 209.) There does not, however, appear to be any foundation for believing that the Nile sends forth any branch above Egypt. All the notices of this kind may with more probability, be referred to a communication with the waters ofKauga.

[170]Mém. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 66.

[171]Page 2. 255.

[172]Af. Assoc. 1790, ch. xii.

Observations on thephysicalandpoliticalGeography of North Africa — Naturally divisible into three Parts — Productive in Gold — Boundary of the Moors and Negroes — the Foulahs, theLeucæthiopesof the Ancients.

Toour view, North Africa appears to be composed of three distinct parts or members. Thefirstand smallest is a fertile region along the Mediterranean, lying opposite to Spain, France, and Italy (commonly distinguished by the name of Barbary); and which, could we suppose the western bason of the Mediterranean to have once beendry land, (bating a lake or recipient for the surrounding rivers), might be regarded as a part of Europe; as possessing much more of the European, than the African character.

Thesecondpart is what may be deemed thebodyof North Africa, comprized between the Red Sea, and Cape Verd, on the east and west; and having the Great Desert (orSahara) and its members, on the north; the Ethiopic ocean, and South Africa, on the opposite side. The prominent feature of this immense region, is a vastbelt of elevated land, of great breadth, often swelling into lofty mountains, and running generally from west to east, about the tenth degree of latitude. Its western extremity seems to be C. Verd; the mountains of Abyssinia, the eastern. To the north, its ramifications are neither numerous, nor extensive, if we except the elevated tract which turns the Nile to the northward, beyond Abyssinia. Towards the south, no particulars are known, save that a multitude of rivers, some of them very large, descend from that side, and join the Atlantic and Ethiopic seas, from the Rio Grande on the west, to Cape Lopez on the east; proving incontestably that by far the greatest proportion of rain water falls on thatside, during the periodical season of the SW winds; which corresponds in all its circumstances with the same monsoon in India.[173]

To the north of this belt, with the exception of the Egyptian Nile, the waters conform generally to the direction of the high land; passing at no great distance (comparatively) from its base, to the right and left: as if the surface of the Sahara had a general dip to the southward.[174]These rivers, moreover, receive all their supplies from the south; no streams of any bulk being collected in the Desert.

In order to produce this effect, there must necessarily be a vast hollow in the interior of Africa, between the high land of Nubia on the east, and Manding on the west; and of which the mountains and Desert form the other two sides. Nor is this state of things unexampled in the other continents. In Asia, thehollow, to whose waters the Caspian and Aral serve as recipients, is no less extensive than the one just mentioned; reckoning from the sources of the Wolga to those of the Oxus; (which latter has ever communicated with the Caspian, either throughout the year, or during a part of it:) the difference is, that in Asia, a greater portion of the hollow is filled up with water, than in Africa.

Thethirdpart is of course, the Great Desert (or Sahara), and its members; consisting of the lesser deserts of Bornou, Bilma, Barca, Sort, &c. This may be considered as anocean of sand,[175]presenting a surface equal in extent to aboutone half of Europe, and having its gulfs, and bays; as also its islands, fertile in groves and pastures, and in many instances containing a great population, subject to order and regular government. Thegreat body, orwesterndivision of thisocean, comprized between Fezzan and the Atlantic, is no less than 50 caravan journies across, from north to south; or from 750 to 800 G. miles; and double that extent, in length: without doubt the largest desert in the world. This division contains but a scanty portion of islands (or oases) and those also of small extent: but the eastern division has many; and some of them very large. Fezzan, Gadamis, Taboo, Ghanat, Agadez, Augela, Berdoa, are amongst the principal ones: besides which, there are a vast number of small ones. In effect, this is the part of Africa alluded to by Strabo,[176]when he says fromCneius Piso, that Africa may be compared to a leopard’s skin. I conceive the reason why the oases are more common here, than in the west, is, that thestratumof sand isshallower, fromitssurface, to that of the earth which it covers. In other words, that the water contained in that earth, is nearer to the surface; as in most of the oases it springs up spontaneously.[177]Can any part of the cause be assigned to the prevalent easterly winds, which, by driving the finer particles of sand to leeward, may have heaped it up to a higher level in the Sahara, than elsewhere?[178]

The springs, no doubt, haveproducedthe oases themselves, by enabling useful vegetables to flourish, and consequently population to be established.That the Desert has adiptowards the east, as well as the south, seems to be proved by the course of the Niger, also. Moreover, the highest points of North Africa, that is to say, the mountains of Mandinga and Atlas, are situated very far to the west.

The Desert, for the most part, abounds with salt. But we hear of saltminesonly, in the part contiguous to Nigritia, from whence salt is drawn for the use of those countries, as well as of the Moorish states adjoining; there being no salt in the Negro countries south of the Niger.[179]There are saltlakesalso, in the eastern part of the Desert.

The great ridge of mountains, and its branches, are very productive ingold; but more particularly in the quarters opposite to Manding and Bambouk on the west, and Wangara, on the east. It may perhaps admit of a doubt, whether the gold is brought down at the present time, by the numerous fountains that form the heads of the Niger and Senegal rivers; or whether it has been deposited in the lower parts of their beds, at an earlier period of the world; and that the search, instead of being facilitated by the periodical floods, is, on the contrary, only to be pursued with effect, when the waters are low.

Tombuctoo is reckoned the mart of the Mandinga gold, from whence it is distributed over the northern quarters of Africa, by the merchants of Tunis, Tripoly, Fezzan, and Morocco; all of whom resort to Tombuctoo. Most of it, no doubt, afterwards finds its way into Europe. It may be remarked, also, that theGold Coastof Guinea (so called, doubtless, from its being the place of traffic for gold dust), is situated nearly opposite to Manding: but whether the gold brought thither, has been washed out of the mountains, by thenorthernorsouthernstreams, I know not: it may be by both; for a part of the gold of Wangara is brought for sale to the southern coast.[180]Degombah, another country, said to be very productive in gold,[181]must, by its situation, lie directly opposite to the Gold Coast: for it lies immediately to the east of Kong (the Gonjah of Mr. Beaufoy, and the Conche of D’Anville).[182]The people of Fezzan trade to Kong.

The triangular hilly tract above commemorated, (p. xix.) which projects northward from the highest part of the belt, and contains Manding, Bambouk, &c. is also abundant in gold; particularly in the quarter towards Bambouk, where it is found in mines; and that chiefly in the middle level.[183](See also,p. xix.)

Wangara appears to have been, in its time, nearly as rich as Manding in this metal. The Arabs name itBelad al Tebr, or thecountry of gold.[184]Edrisi, Ibn al Wardi, and Leo, bear testimony to its riches. They say that the gold is found in the sands, after the periodical inundation of the Niger(which is general over the country) is abated.[185]Leo, alone,[186]says, that the gold is found in thesouthernquarter of the kingdom; which appears very probable, as the mountains lie on that side: so that it may be concluded, that the gold sand has not been brought there by the Niger, but by smaller rivers that descend immediately from those mountains. That a part of Wangara is bounded by mountains, we learn from Edrisi: for the lake on which Reghebil stands, has mountains hanging over its southern shore.[187]

It is supposed that most of the countries bordering on these mountains, share in the riches contained within them, by means of the rivulets.[188]But considering how amazingly productive in gold, the streams of this region are, it is wonderful that Pliny should not mention the Niger amongst the rivers that roll down golden sands: for although he speaks of the Tagus and others, in different quarters, no African river is mentioned.[189]And yet Herodotus knew that the Carthaginians bartered their goods for gold, with the Africans on the sea coast, beyond the Pillars of Hercules: which was contrived without the parties seeing each other.[190]

The common boundary of theMoorsandNegroes, in Africa, forms a striking feature, as well in the moral, as the political and physical, geography of this continent. The Moors, descendants of Arabs, intermixed with the various colonists of Africa, from the earliest to the latest times, overspread the habitable parts of the Desert, and the oases within it: and have pushed their conquests and establishments southward; pressing on the Negro aborigines, who have in several instances retired to the southward of the great rivers; but in others, preserve their footing on the side towards theDesert; according to the strength, or openness of the situation. It is probable, however, that the Negroes, who are an agricultural people, never possessed anyconsiderableportion of the Desert, which is so much better suited to the pastoral life of the Moors. It appears as if matters had not undergone much change in this respect, since the days of Herodotus; who fixes the boundary of theLibyansandEthiopians, in other words, of theMoorsandNegroes, near the borders of the Niger; and he apparently pointed to the quarter in which Kassina or Ghana are now situated.[191]

The Negroes in the western quarter of the continent, are of two distinct races, of which the least numerous are namedFoulahs, orFoolahs. These, although they partake much of the Negro form and complexion, have neither theirjettycolour,thick lips, orcrispedhair. They have also a language distinct from the Mandinga, which is the prevailing one, in this quarter.

The original country of the Foulahs is said to be a tract of no great extent along the eastern branch of the Senegal river; situated between Manding and Kasson; Bambouk and Kaarta: and which bears the name ofFoola-doo, or the country of the Foulahs. But whether this be really the case, or whether they might not have come from the country within Serra Leona (called also theFoulahcountry), may be a question; of which, more in the sequel. The Foulahs occupy, at least as sovereigns, several provinces or kingdoms, interspersed throughout the tract, comprehended between the mountainous border of the country of Serra Leona, on the west, and that of Tombuctoo, on the east; as also, a large tract on the lower part of the Senegal river: and these provinces are insulated from each other in a very remarkable manner. Their religion is Mahomedanism, but with a great mixture of Paganism; and with less intolerance than is practiced by the Moors.

The principal of the Foulah States, is that within Serra Leona; and of which Teemboo is the capital. The next, in order, appears to be that bordering on the south of the Senegal river, and on the Jaloffs: and which is properly named Siratik. Others of less note, are Bondou, with Foota-Torra,adjacent to it, lying between the rivers Gambia and Falemé; Foola-doo, and Brooko, along the upper part of the Senegal river; Wassela, beyond the upper part of the Niger; and Massina, lower down on the same river, and joining to Tombuctoo on the west.

The Moors have in very few instances, established themselves on the south of the great rivers. They have advancedfarthestto thesouthin the western quarter of Africa; so that the common boundary of the two races, passes, in respect of the parallels on the globe, with a considerable degree of obliquity, to the north, in its way from the river Senegal towards Nubia, and the Nile.[192]Mr. Park arranges the Moorish States which form thefrontiertowards Nigritia, together with the Negro states opposed to them, on the south, in the line of his progress, in the following order:

The small Moorish state of Gedumah, situated on the north bank of the Senegal river, and the last that touches on it,[193]is opposed to the small Negro kingdom of Kajaaga, on the south. This latter occupies the extremity of the navigable course of the Senegal, terminated in this place, by the cataract of F’low.

From this point, the Negro and Foulah states occupybothbanks of the Senegal river, to its source: and beyond that,bothbanks of the Niger (or Joliba) likewise, to the lake Dibbie, situated beyond the term of Mr. Park’s expedition. This space is divided, unequally, between Kasson, a hilly strong country, but of small extent; and which has the Moors of Jaffnoo on the north: Kaarta, a considerable state, which has Ludamar for its opposite (a country held by Ali, a Moorish prince, who is loaded with infamy, on the score of maltreatment of the only two Europeans, who appear to have entered his country, in latter times): Bambara, of still more consideration, which has on the north, the Moorish kingdom of Beeroo, and Massina, a Foulah state.

Here Mr. Park’s personal knowledge ends; but he learnt that Tombuctoo and Houssa, which succeed in order, to Massina, and occupy both sides ofthe Niger, are Moorish states, though with the greatest proportion of Negro subjects: so that the river may be considered as the boundary of the two races in this quarter.[194]

Of the countries between Houssa and Kassina we are ignorant. The Desert seems to approach very near the river (Niger) in that quarter, whence a Moorish population may be inferred. South of the river, we hear of Kaffaba, Gago, and other Negro countries; but without any distinct notices of position; and beyond these, Melli.

Kassina and Bornou, two great empires on the north of the river, appear to divide the largest portion of the remaining space, to the borders of Nubia; and extend a great way to the north; this region being composed of Desert and habitable country, intermixed; but perhaps, containing the largest proportion of the latter. In both these empires, the sovereigns are Mahomedans, but the bulk of their subjects are said to adhere to their ancient worship; that is to say, the lower orders are, almost universally, Negroes.[195]

From what has appeared, perhaps the boundary of Nigritia, as it respects the Negro population, may be expressed generally, and with a few exceptions, as follows: beginning from the west, the extent upwards of the navigable course of the Senegal river, generally—thence, a line drawn to Silla; from Silla to Tombuctoo, Houssa, and Berissa, along the river Niger; and thence through Asouda, Kanem, and Kuku, to Dongola, on the Nile.

Leo,[196]enumerates 12 states, or kingdoms of Nigritia: but amongst these, he includes Gualata, a tract only 300 miles S of the river Nun: as also, Cano (Ganat), adjacent to Fezzan; and Nubia. Kassina, Bornou, and Tombuctoo, are included, of course.[197]

The kingdom of the Foulahs before mentioned, situated between the upper part of the Gambia river, and the coast of Serra Leona, and along the Rio Grande, has also a Mahomedan sovereign, but the bulk of the people appear to be of the ancient religion. It has been already said, that although they are a black people, they are less black than the Negroes, generally, and have neither crisped hair, nor thick lips: as also that they have a language distinct from the Mandinga. From these circumstances, added to that of situation, they appear clearly to be theLeucæthiopesof Ptolemy and Pliny. The former places them in the situation occupied by the Foulahs; that is, in the parallel of 9 degrees north; having to the north, the mountains ofRyssadius, which separate the courses of theStachirandNiarivers (Gambia and Rio Grande), and which therefore answer to the continuation of the great belt of high land, in our geography; in which there is, moreover, another point of agreement, theCaphasof Ptolemy, being theCaffabaof the map.[198]

Ptolemy, by the name, evidently meant to describe a peoplelessblack than the generality of theEthiopians; and hence it may be gathered, that this nation had been traded with, and that some notices respecting it, had been communicated to him. It may also be remarked, that the navigation ofHanno, terminated on this coast; probably at Sherbro’ river, or sound. And as this was also the term of the knowledge of Ptolemy, it may be justly suspected that this part of the coast was described from Carthaginian materials.[199]

Those who have perused the Journal of Messrs. Watt and Winterbottom, through the Foulah country, in 1794, and recollect how flattering a picture they give of the urbanity and hospitality of the Foulahs, will be gratified on finding that this nation was known and distinguished from the rest of the Ethiopians, at a remote period of antiquity.[200]

The contrast between the Moorish and Negro characters, is as great, as that between the nature of their respective countries; or between their form and complexion. The Moors appear to possess the vices of the Arabs, without their virtues; and to avail themselves of an intolerant religion, to oppress strangers: whilst the Negroes, and especially the Mandingas, unable to comprehend a doctrine, that substitutes opinion or belief, for the social duties, are content to remain in their humble state of ignorance. The hospitality shewn by these good people to Mr. Park, a destitute and forlorn stranger, raises them very high in the scale of humanity: and I know of no fitter title to confer on them, than that of theHindoosofAfrica: at the same time, by no means intending to degrade theMahomedansofIndia, by a comparison with theAfrican Moors.

THE END.

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