Chapter 7

Thegreyandflying Squirrelsare so tamed by the boys, that they sit on their shoulders, and follow them every where.TheTurkey CocksandHensrun about in the woods of this country, and differ in nothing from our tame ones, except in their superior size, and redder, though more palatable flesh. When their eggs are found in the wood, and put under tameTurkeyhens, the young ones become tame; however when they grow up, it sometimes happens that they fly away; their wings are therefore commonly clipped, especially when young. But the tamed turkeys are commonly much more irascible, than those which are naturally tame. The Indians likewise employ themselves in taming them and keeping them near their huts.WildGeesehave likewise been tamed in the following manner. When the wild geese first come hither in spring, and stop a little while (for they do not breed inPensylvania) the people try to shoot them in the wing, which however is generally mere chance. They then row to the place where[210]the wild goose fell, catch it, and keep it for some time at home, by this means many of them have been made so tame, that when they were let out in the morning, they returned in the evening, but to be more sure of them, their wings are commonly clipped. I have seen wild geese of this kind, which the owner assured me, that he had kept for more than twelve years; but though he kept eight of them, yet he never had the pleasure to see them copulate with the tame ones, or lay eggs.Partridges, which are here in abundance, may likewise be so far tamed, as to run about all day with the poultry, and to come along with them to be fed when they are called. In the same manner I have seenwild Pigeons, which were made so tame as to fly out and return again. In some winters there are immense quantities of wild pigeons inPensylvania.Octoberthe 24th. Of all the rare birds ofNorth America, theHumming birdis the most admirable, or at least most worthy of peculiar attention. Several reasons induce me to believe that few parts of the world can produce its equal. Dr.Linnæuscalls itTrochilus Colubris. TheSwedesand someEnglishmencall it theKing’s bird, but the name ofHumming birdis more common.[211]Catesbyin hisNatural History of Carolina, Vol. i. page 65, tab. 65. has drawn it, in its natural size, with its proper colours, and added a description of it.34In size it is not much bigger than a largehumble bee, and is therefore the least of all birds,35or it is much if there is a lesser species in the world. Its plumage is most beautifully coloured, most of its feathers being green, some grey, and others forming a shining red ring round its neck; the tail glows with fine feathers, changing from green into a brass colour. These birds come here in spring about the time when it begins to grow very warm, and make their nests in summer, but towards autumn they retreat again into the more southern countries ofAmerica. They subsist barely upon the nectar, or sweet juice of flowers contained in that part, which botanists call the nectarium, and which they suck up with their long bills. Of all the flowers, they like those most, which have a long tube, and I[212]have observed that they have fluttered chiefly about theImpatiens Noli tangere, and theMonardawith crimson flowers. An inhabitant of the country is sure to have a number of these beautiful and agreeable little birds before his window all the summer long, if he takes care to plant a bed with all sorts of fine flowers under them. It is indeed a diverting spectacle to see these little active creatures flying about the flowers like bees, and sucking their juices with their long and narrow bills. The flowers of the above-mentionedMonardagrowverticillated, that is, at different distances they surround the stalk, as the flowers of our mint (Mentha) bastard hemp (Galeopsis) mother-wort (Leonurus) and dead nettle (Lamium). It is therefore diverting to see them putting their bills into every flower in the circle. As soon as they have sucked the juice of one flower, they flutter to the next. One that has not seen them would hardly believe in how short a space of time they have had their tongues in all the flowers of a plant, which when large and with a long tube, the little bird by putting its head into them, looks as if it crept with half its body into them.During their sucking the juice out of the flowers they never settle on it, but[213]flutter continually like bees, bend their feet backwards, and move their wings so quick, that they are hardly visible. During this fluttering they make a humming like bees, or like that which is occasioned by the turning of a little wheel. After they have thus, without resting, fluttered for a while, they fly to a neighbouring tree or post, and resume their vigour again. They then return to their humming and sucking. They are not very shy, and I in company with several other people, have not been full two yards from the place where they fluttered about and sucked the flowers; and though we spoke and moved, yet they were no ways disturbed; but on going towards them, they would fly off with the swiftness of an arrow. When several of them were on the same bed, there was always a violent combat between them, in meeting each other at the same flower (for envy was likewise predominant amongst these little creatures) and they attacked with such impetuosity, that it would seem as if the strongest would pierce its antagonist through and through, with its long bill. During the fight, they seem to stand in the air, keeping themselves up, by the incredibly swift motion of their wings. When the windows towards the garden are open, they[214]pursue each other into the rooms, fight a little, and flutter away again. Sometimes they come to a flower which is withering, and has no more juice in it; they then in a fit of anger pluck it off, and throw it on the ground, that it may not mislead them for the future. If a garden contains a great number of these little birds, they are seen to pluck off the flowers in such quantities, that the ground is quite covered with them, and it seems as if this proceeded from a motion of envy.Commonly you hear no other sound than their humming, but when they fly against each other in the air, they make a chirping noise like a sparrow or chicken. I have sometimes walked with several other people in small gardens, and these birds have on all sides fluttered about us, without appearing very shy. They are so small that one would easily mistake them for great humming-bees or butterflies, and their flight resembles that of the former, and is incredibly swift. They have never been observed to feed on insects or fruit; the nectar of flowers, seems therefore to be their only food. Several people have caught some humming birds on account of their singular beauty, and have put them into cages, where they died for want of a proper food.[215]However Mr.Bartramhas kept a couple of them for several weeks together, by feeding them with water in which sugar had been dissolved, and I am of opinion that it would not be difficult to keep them all winter in a hot-house.The humming bird always builds its nest in the middle of a branch of a tree, and it is so small, that it cannot be seen from the ground, but he who intends to see it must get up to the branch. For this reason it is looked upon as a great rarity if a nest is accidentally found, especially as the trees in summer have so thick a foliage. The nest is likewise the least of all; that which is in my possession is quite round, and consists in the inside of a brownish and quite soft down, which seems to have been collected from the leaves of the great mullein orVerbascum Thapsus, which are often found covered with a soft wool of this colour, and the plant is plentiful here. The outside of the nest has a coating of green moss, such as is common on old pales or enclosures and on trees; the inner diameter of the nest is hardly a geometrical inch at the top, and its depth half an inch. It is however known that the humming birds make their nests likewise of flax, hemp, moss, hair and other such soft[216]materials; they are said to lay two eggs, each of the size of a pea.Octoberthe 25th. I employed this day and the next in packing up all the seeds gathered this autumn, for I had an opportunity of sending them toEnglandby the ships which sailed about this time. FromEnglandthey were forwarded toSweden.Octoberthe 27th. In the morning I set out on a little journey toNew York, in company with Mr.Peter Cock, with a view to see the country, and to enquire into the safest road, which I could take in going toCanada, through the desart or uninhabited country between it and theEnglishprovinces.That part where we travelled at present was pretty well inhabited on both sides of the road, byEnglishmen,Germansand otherEuropeans. Plains and hills of different dimensions were seen alternately, mountains and stones, I never saw, excepting a few pebbles. Near almost every farm was a great orchard with peach and apple trees, some of which were yet loaded with fruit.The enclosures were in some parts low enough, for the cattle to leap over them with ease; to prevent this the hogs had a triangular wooden yoke: this custom was as I have already observed, common over[217]all theEnglishplantations. To the horses neck was fastened a piece of wood, which at the lower end had a tooth or hook, fastening in the enclosure, and stopping the horse, just when it lifted its fore feet to leap over; but I know not whether this be a good invention with regard to horses. They were likewise kept in bounds by a piece of wood, one end of which was fastened to one of the fore feet, and the other to one of the hind feet, and it forced them to walk pretty slowly, as at the same time it made it impossible for them to leap over the enclosures. To me it appeared that the horses were subject to all sorts of dangerous accidents from this piece of wood.NearNew Frankfurtwe rode over a little stone bridge, and somewhat further, eight or nineEnglishmiles fromPhiladelphiawe passed over another, which was likewise of stone. There are not yet any milestones put up in the country, and the inhabitants only compute the distances by guess. We were afterwards brought over a river in a ferry, where we paid threepence a person, for ourselves and our horses.At one of the places where we stopt to have our horses fed, the people had aMocking-birdin a cage; and it is here reckoned the best singing bird, though its[218]plumage be very simple, and not showy at all. At this time of the year it does not sing.Linnæuscalls itTurdus polyglottos, andCatesbyin hisNatural History of Carolina, Vol. 1. p. 27. tab. 27, has likewise described and drawn this bird. The people said that it built its nests in the bushes and trees, but is so shy, that if any body come and look at its eggs, it leaves the nest, never to come to it again. Its young ones require great care in being bred up. If they are taken from their mother and put into a cage, she feeds them for three or four days; but seeing no hopes of setting them at liberty, she flies away. It then often happens, that the young ones die soon after, doubtless because they cannot accustom themselves to eat what the people give them. But it is generally imagined, that the last time the mother feeds them, she finds means to poison them, in order, the sooner to deliver them from slavery and wretchedness. These birds stay all summer in the colonies, but retire in autumn to the south, and stay away all winter. They have got the name ofMocking-birds, on account of their skill in imitating the note of almost every bird they hear. The song peculiar to them is excellent, and varied by an infinite change of[219]notes and melody; several people are therefore of opinion, that they are the best singing birds in the world. So much is certain, that few birds come up to them; this is what makes them precious: theSwedescall it by the same name as theEnglish.About noon we came toNew Bristol, a small town inPensylvania, on the banks of theDelaware, about fifteenEnglishmilesfromPhiladelphia. Most of the houses are built of stone, and stand asunder. The inhabitants carry on a small trade, though most of them get their goods fromPhiladelphia. On the other side of the river, almost directly opposite toNew Bristol, lies the town ofBurlington, in which the governor ofNew Jerseyresides.We had now country seats on both sides of the roads. Now we came into a lane enclosed with pales on both sides, including pretty great corn-fields. Next followed a wood, and we perceived for the space of fourEnglishmiles nothing but woods, and a very poor soil, on which theLupinus perennisgrew plentifully and succeeded well. I was overjoyed to see a plant come on so well in these poor dry places, and even began to meditate, how to improve this discovery in a soil like that which it inhabited. But I afterwards had the mortification to find that[220]the horses and cows eat almost all the other plants, but left the lupine, which was however very green, looked very fresh, and was extremely soft to the touch. Perhaps means may be found out of making this plant palatable to the cattle. In the evening we arrived atTrenton, after having previously passed theDelawarein a ferry.Octoberthe 28th.Trentonis a long narrow town, situate at some distance from the riverDelaware, on a sandy plain; it belongs toNew Jersey, and they reckon it thirty miles fromPhiladelphia. It has two small churches, one for the people belonging to the church ofEngland, the other for the presbyterians. The houses are partly built of stone, though most of them are made of wood or planks, commonly two stories high, together with a cellar below the building, and a kitchen under ground, close to the cellar. The houses stand at a moderate distance from one another. They are commonly built so, that the street passes along one side of the houses, while gardens of different dimensions bound the other side; in each garden is a draw-well; the place is reckoned very healthy. Our landlord told us, that twenty-two years ago, when he first settled here, there was hardly more than one house; but from that[221]timeTrentonhas encreased so much, that there are at present near a hundred houses. The houses were within divided into several rooms by their partitions of boards. The inhabitants of the place carried on a small trade with the goods which they got fromPhiladelphia, but their chief gain consisted in the arrival of the numerous travellers between that city andNew York; for they are commonly brought by theTrentonYachts fromPhiladelphiatoTrenton, or from thence toPhiladelphia. But fromTrentonfurther toNew Brunswick, the travellers go in the waggons which set out every day for that place. Several of the inhabitants however likewise subsist on the carriage for all sorts of goods, which are every day sent in great quantities, either fromPhiladelphiatoNew York, or from thence to the former place; for betweenPhiladelphiaandTrentonall goods go by water, but betweenTrentonandNew Brunswickthey are all carried by land, and both these conveniences belong to people of this town.For the yachts which go between this place and the capital ofPensylvania, they usually pay a shilling and six-pence ofPensylvaniacurrency per person, and every one pays besides for his baggage. Every passenger[222]must provide meat and drink for himself, or pay some settled fare: betweenTrentonandNew Brunswicka person pays two shillings and sixpence, and the baggage is likewise paid for separately.We continued our journey in the morning; the country through which we passed was for the greatest part level, though sometimes there were some long hills, some parts were covered with trees, but far the greater part of the country was without woods; on the other hand I never saw any place inAmerica, the towns excepted, so well peopled. An old man, who lived in this neighbourhood and accompanied us for some part of the road, however assured me, that he could well remember the time, when betweenTrentonandNew Brunswickthere were not above three farms, and he reckoned it was about fifty and some odd years ago. During the greater part of the day we had very extensive corn-fields on both sides of the road, and commonly towards the south the country had a great declivity. Near almost every farm was a spacious orchard full of peaches and apple trees, and in some of them the fruit was fallen from the trees in such quantities, as to cover nearly the whole surface. Part of it they left to rot, since they could not take it all in[223]and consume it. Wherever we passed by we were always welcome to go into the fine orchards, and gather our hats and pockets full of the choicest fruit, without the possessor’s so much as looking after it. Cherry trees were planted near the farms, on the roads, &c.Thebarns36had a peculiar kind of construction hereabouts, which I will give a concise description of. The whole building was very great, so as almost to equal a small church; the roof was pretty high, covered with wooden shingles, declining on both sides, but not steep: the walls which support it, were not much higher than a full grown man; but on the other hand the breadth of the building was the more considerable: in the middle was the threshing floor, and above it, or in the loft or garret they put the corn which was not yet threshed, the straw, or any thing else, according to the season: on one side were stables for the horses, and on the other for the cows. And the small cattle had likewise their particular stables or styes; on both ends of the buildings were great gates,[224]so that one could come in with a cart and horses through one of them, and go out at the other: here was therefore under one roof the threshing floor, the barn, the stables, the hay loft, the coach house, &c. This kind of buildings is chiefly made use of by theDutchandGermans; for it is to be observed that the country betweenTrentonandNew York, is inhabited by fewEnglishmen, but instead of them byGermansorDutch,37the latter of which especially are numerous.Before I proceed, I find it necessary to remark one thing with regard to the Indians, or oldAmericans. For this account may perhaps meet with readers, who, like many people of my acquaintance, may be of opinion that allNorth America, was almost wholly inhabited by savage or heathen nations, and they may be astonished, that I do not mention them more frequently in my account. Others may perhaps imagine, that when I mention in my journal, that the country is much cultivated, that in several places, houses of stone or wood are built, round which are corn-fields, gardens,[225]and orchards, that I am speaking of the property of theIndians; to undeceive them, I here give the following explication. The country especially all along the coasts, in theEnglishcolonies, is inhabited byEuropeans, who in some places are already so numerous, that few parts ofEuropeare more populous. TheIndianshave sold the country to theEuropeans, and have retired further up: in most parts you may travel twentySwedishmiles, or about a hundred and twentyEnglishmiles, from the sea shore, before you reach the first habitations of theIndians. And it is very possible for a person to have been atPhiladelphiaand other towns on the sea shore for half a year together, without so much as seeing anIndian. I intend in the sequel to give a more circumstantial account of them, their religion, manners, oeconomy, and other particulars relating to them: at present I return to the sequel of my journal.About nine English miles fromTrenton, the ground began to change its colour; hitherto it consisted of a considerable quantity of hazel coloured clay, but at present the earth was a reddish brown, so that it sometimes had a purple colour, and sometimes looked like logwood. This colour came from a red limestone which approached[226]very near to that which is on the mountainKinnekulleinWest Gothland, and makes a particular stratum in the rock. TheAmericanredlimestonetherefore seems to be merely a variety of that I saw inSweden, it lay in strata of two or three fingers thickness; but was divisible into many thinner plates or shivers, whose surface was seldom flat and smooth, but commonly rough: the strata themselves were frequently cut off by horizontal cracks. When these stones were exposed to the air, they by degrees shivered and withered into pieces, and at last turned into dust. The people of this neighbourhood did not know how to make any use of it; the soil above is sometimes rich and sometimes poor: in such places where the people had lately dug new wells, I perceived, that most of the rubbish which was thrown up consisted of such a species of stone. This reddish brown earth we always saw till nearNew Brunswick, where it is particularly plentiful. The banks of the river, shewed in many places nothing but strata ofLimestone, which did not run horizontally, but dipped very much.About ten o’clock in the morning we came toPrince-town, which is situated in a plain. Most of the houses are built of wood, and are not contiguous, so that there[227]are gardens and pastures between them. As these parts were sooner inhabited byEuropeansthanPensylvania, the woods were likewise more cut away, and the country more cultivated, so that one might have imagined himself to be inEurope.We now thought of continuing our journey, but as it began to rain very heavily, and continued so during the whole day and part of the night, we were forced to stay till next morning,Octoberthe 29th. This morning we proceeded on our journey. The country was pretty well peopled; however there were yet great woods in many places: they all consisted of deciduous trees: and I did not perceive a single tree of the fir kind, till I came toNew Brunswick. The ground was level, and did not seem to be every where of the richest kind. In some places it had hillocks, losing themselves almost imperceptibly in the plains, which were commonly crossed by a rivulet. Almost near every farm-house were great orchards. The houses were commonly built of timber, and at some distance by themselves stood the ovens for baking, consisting commonly of clay.On a hill covered with trees, and calledRockhill, I saw several pieces of stone or[228]rock, so big, that they would have required three men to roll them down. But besides these there were few great stories in the country; for most of those which we saw, could easily be lifted up by a single man. In another place we perceived a number of little round pebbles, but we did not meet with either mountains or rocks.About noon we arrived atNew Brunswick, a pretty little town in the province ofNew Jersey, in a valley on the west side of the riverRareton; on account of its low situation, it cannot be seen (coming fromPensylvania) before you get to the top of the hill, which is quite close up to it: the town extends north and south along the river. TheGermaninhabitants have two churches, one of stone and the other of wood; theEnglishchurch is of the latter kind, but the presbyterians were building one of stone: the town house makes likewise a pretty good appearance. Some of the other houses are built of bricks, but most of them are made either wholly of wood, or of bricks and wood; the wooden houses are not made of strong timber, but merely of boards or planks, which are within joined by laths: such houses as consist of both wood and bricks, have only the wall towards the street of bricks, all the other sides being merely of planks. This[229]peculiar kind of ostentation would easily lead a traveller, who passes through the town in haste, to believe that most of the houses are built of bricks. The houses were covered with shingles; before each door there was an elevation, to which you ascend by some steps from the street; it resembled a small balcony, and had some benches on both sides, on which the people sat in the evening, in order to enjoy the fresh air, and to have the pleasure of viewing those who passed by. The town has only one street lengthways, and at its northern extremity there is a street across; both of these are of a considerable length.The riverRaretonpasses hard by the town, and is deep enough for great yachts to come up; its breadth near the town is within the reach of a common gun shot; the tide comes up several miles beyond the town, the yachts were placed lengthways along the bridge; the river has very high and pretty steep banks on both sides, but near the town there are no such banks, it being situated in a low valley. One of the streets is almost entirely inhabited byDutchmen, who came hither fromAlbany, and for that reason they call itAlbany street: theseDutchpeople only keep company among themselves, and seldom or never go amongst the other inhabitants, living as it were[230]quite separate from them.New Brunswickbelongs toNew Jersey; however the greatest part, or rather all its trade is toNew York, which is about forty English miles distant; to that place they send corn, flour in great quantities, bread, several other necessaries, a great quantity of linseed, boards timber, wooden vessels, and all sorts of carpenters work. Several small yachts are every day going backwards and forwards between these two towns. The inhabitants likewise get a considerable profit from the travellers, who every hour pass through, on the high road.The steep banks consist of the red limestone, which I have before described. It is here plainly visible that the strata are not horizontal, but considerably dipping, especially towards the south. The weather and the air has in a great measure dissolved the stone here: I enquired, whether it could not be made use of, but was assured, that in building houses it was entirely useless; for, though it is hard and permanent under ground, yet on being dug out, and exposed for some time to the air, it first crumbles into greater, then into lesser pieces, and at last is converted into dust. An inhabitant of this town, however tried to build a house with this sort of stone, but[231]its outsides being exposed to the air, soon began to change so much, that the owner was obliged to put boards all over the wall, to preserve it from falling to pieces. The people however pretend that this stone is a very good manure, if it is scattered upon the corn-fields in its rubbish state, for it is said to stifle the weeds: it is therefore made use of both on the fields and in gardens.38Towards the evening we continued our journey, and were ferried over the riverRareton, together with our horses. In a very dry summer, and when the tide has ebbed, it is by no means dangerous to ride through this river. On the opposite shore the red juniper tree was pretty abundant. The country through which we now passed was pretty well inhabited, but in most places full of small pebbles.We sawGuinea Hensin many places where we passed by. They sometimes run about the fields, at a good distance from the farm-houses.About eight English miles fromNew Brunswick, the road divided. We took that on the left, for that on the right leads[232]toAmboy, the chief sea-town inNew Jersey. The country now made a charming appearance; some parts being high, others forming vallies, and all of them well cultivated. From the hills you had a prospect of houses, farms, gardens, corn-fields, forests, lakes, islands, roads, and pastures.In most of the places where we travelled this day the colour of the ground was reddish. I make no doubt, but there were strata of the before-mentioned red limestone under it. Sometimes the ground looked very like a cinnabar ore.Wood-bridgeis a small village in a plain, consisting of a few houses: we stopped here to rest our horses a little. The houses were most of them built of boards; the walls had a covering of shingles on the outside; these shingles were round at one end, and all of a length in each row: some of the houses had an Italian roof, but the greatest part had roofs with pediments; most of them were covered with shingles. In most places we met with wells and buckets to draw up the water.Elizabeth-townis a small town, about twenty English miles distant fromNew Brunswick: we arrived there immediately after sun setting. Its houses are mostly scattered, but well built, and generally[233]of boards, with a roof of shingles, and walls covered with the same. There were likewise some stone buildings. A little rivulet passes through the town from west to east; it is almost reduced to nothing when the water ebbs away, but with the full tide they can bring up small yachts. Here were two fine churches, each of which made a much better appearance than any one inPhiladelphia. That belonging to the people of the church ofEnglandwas built of bricks, had a steeple with bells, and a balustrade round it, from which there was a prospect of the country. The meeting house of the presbyterians was built of wood, but had both a steeple and bells, and was, like the other houses covered with shingles. The town house made likewise a good appearance, and had a spire with a bell. The banks of the river were red, from the reddish limestone; both in and about the town were many gardens and orchards, and it might truly be said thatElizabeth-townwas situated in a garden; the ground hereabouts being even and well cultivated.The geese, in some of the places by which we passed this day and the next, carried three or four little sticks, of the length of a foot about their necks; they[234]were fastened crossways, to prevent them from creeping through half broken enclosures. They look extremely awkward, and it is very diverting to see them in this attire.At night we took up our lodgings atElizabeth-town Point, an inn about twoEnglishmiles distant from the town, and the last house on this road belonging toNew Jersey. The man who had taken the lease of it, together with that of the ferry near it, told us that he paid a hundred and ten pounds ofPensylvaniacurrency to the owner.Octoberthe 30th. We were ready to proceed on our journey at sun-rising. Near the inn where we had passed the night, we were to cross a river, and we were brought over, together with our horses, in a wretched half rotten ferry. This river came a considerable way out of the country, and small vessels could easily sail up it. This was a great advantage to the inhabitants of the neighbouring country, giving them an opportunity of sending their goods toNew Yorkwith great ease; and they even made use of it for trading to theWest Indies. The country was low on both sides of the river, and consisted of meadows. But there was no other hay to be got, than such as commonly[235]grows in swampy grounds; for as the tide comes up in this river, these low plains were sometimes overflowed when the water was high. The people hereabouts are said to be troubled in summer with immense swarms of gnats or musquetoes, which sting them and their cattle. This was ascribed to the low swampy meadows, on which these insects deposite their eggs, which are afterwards hatched by the heat.As soon as we had got over the river, we were uponStaten Island, which is quite surrounded with salt water. This is the beginning of the province ofNew York. Most of the people settled here wereDutchmen, or such as came hither whilst theDutchwere yet in possession of this place. But at present they were scattered among theEnglishand otherEuropeaninhabitants, and spokeEnglishfor the greatest part. The prospect of the country here is extremely pleasing, as it is not so much intercepted by woods, but offers more cultivated fields to view. Hills and vallies still continued, as usual, to change alternately.The farms were near each other. Most of the houses were wooden; however some were built of stone. Near every farm-house was an orchard with apple trees: the fruit was already for the greatest part gathered.[236]Here, and on the whole journey before, I observed a press for cyder at every farm-house, made in different manners, by which the people had already pressed the juice out of the apples, or were just busied with that work. Some people made use of a wheel made of thick oak planks, which turned upon a wooden axis by means of a horse drawing it, much in the same manner as the people do with woad;39except that here the wheel runs upon planks. Cherry trees stood along the enclosures round corn-fields.The corn-fields were excellently situated, and either sown with wheat or rye. They had no ditches on their sides, but (as is usual inEngland) only furrows, drawn at greater or lesser distances from each other.In one place we observed a water mill, so situated, that when the tide flowed, the water ran into a pond: but when it ebbed, the floodgate was drawn up, and the mill driven by the water, flowing out of the pond.About eight o’clock in the morning we arrived at the place where we were to cross[237]the water, in order to come to the town ofNew York. We left our horses here and went on board the yacht: we were to go eightEnglishmiles by sea; however we landed about eleven o’clock in the morning atNew York. We saw a kind of wild ducks in immense quantities upon the water: the people called themBlue bills, and they seemed to be the same with ourPintail ducks, orLinnæus’sAnas acuta: but they were very shy. On the shore of the continent we saw some very fine sloping corn-fields, which at present looked quite green, the corn being already come up. We saw many boats in which the fishermen were busy catching oysters: to this purpose they make use of a kind of rakes with long iron teeth bent inwards; these they used either singly or two tied together in such a manner, that the teeth were turned towards each other.Octoberthe 31st. AboutNew Yorkthey find innumerable quantities of excellent oysters, and there are few places which have oysters of such an exquisite taste, and of so great a size: they are pickled and sent to theWest Indiesand other places; which is done in the following manner. As soon as the oysters are caught, their shells are opened, and the fish washed clean;[238]some water is then poured into a pot, the oysters are put into it, and they must boil for a while; the pot is then taken off from the fire again, the oysters taken out and put upon a dish, till they are somewhat dry: then you take some mace, allspice, black pepper, and as much vinegar as you think is sufficient to give a sourish taste. All this is mixed with half the liquor in which the oysters were boiled, and put over the fire again. While you boil it great care is to be taken in scumming off the thick scum; at last the whole pickle is poured into a glass or earthen vessel, the oysters are put to it, and the vessel is well stopped to keep out the air. In this manner, oysters will keep for years together, and may be sent to the most distant parts of the world.The merchants here buy up great quantities of oysters about this time, pickle them in the above-mentioned manner, and send them to theWest Indies: by which they frequently make a considerable profit: for, the oysters, which cost them five shillings of their currency, they commonly sell for a pistole, or about six times as much as they gave for them; and sometimes they get even more: the oysters which are thus pickled have a very fine flavour. The following is another way of preserving oysters:[239]they are taken out of the shells, fried with butter, put into a glass or earthen vessel with the melted butter over them, so that they are quite covered with it, and no air can get to them. Oysters prepared in this manner have likewise an agreeable taste, and are exported to theWest Indiesand other parts.Oystersare here reckoned very wholesome, some people assured us, that they had not felt the least inconvenience, after eating a considerable quantity of them. It is likewise a common rule here that oysters are best in those months which have anrin their name, such asSeptember,October, &c; but that they are not so good in other months; however there are poor people, who live all the year long upon nothing but oysters with bread.The sea nearNew York, affords annually the greatest quantity of oysters. They are found chiefly in a muddy ground, where they lie in the slime, and are not so frequent in a sandy bottom: a rockey and a stony bottom is seldom found here. The oyster shells are gathered in great heaps, and burnt into a lime, which by some people is made use of in building houses, but is not reckoned so good as that made of limestone. On our journey toNew York, we[240]saw high heaps of oyster shells near the farm-houses, upon the sea shore; and aboutNew York, we observed the people had carried them upon the fields which were sown with wheat. However they were entire, and not crushed.TheIndianswho inhabited the coast before the arrival of theEuropeans, have made oysters and other shell fish their chief food; and at present whenever they come to a salt water where oysters are to be got, they are very active in catching them, and sell them in great quantities to otherIndianswho live higher up the country: for this reason you see immense numbers of oyster and muscle shells piled up near such places, where you are certain that theIndiansformerly built their huts. This circumstance ought to make us cautious in maintaining, that in all places on the sea shore, or higher up in the country, where such heaps of shells are to be met with, the latter have lain there ever since the time that those places were overflowed by the sea.Lobstersare likewise plentyfully caught hereabouts, pickled much in the same way as oysters, and sent to several places. I was told of a very remarkable circumstance about these lobsters, and I have afterwards frequently heard it mentioned. The coast[241]ofNew Yorkhad alreadyEuropeaninhabitants for a considerable time, yet no lobsters were to be met with on that coast; and though the people fished ever so often, they could never find any signs of lobsters being in this part of the sea: they were therefore continually brought in great wellboats fromNew England, where they are plentiful; but it happened that one of these wellboats broke in pieces nearHellgate, about tenEnglishmiles fromNew York, and all the lobsters in it got off. Since that time they have so multiplied in this part of the sea, that they are now caught in the greatest abundance.Novemberthe 1st. A kind of cold fever, which theEnglishin this country callFever and Ague, is very common in several parts of theEnglishcolonies. There are however other parts, where the people have never felt it. I will in the sequel describe the symptoms of this disease at large. Several of the most considerable inhabitants of this town, assured me that this disease was not near so common inNew York, as it is inPensylvania, where ten were seized by it, to one in the former province; therefore they were of opinion, that this disease was occasioned by the vapours arising from stagnant fresh water, from[242]marshes, and from rivers; for which reason those provinces situated on the sea shore, could not be so much affected by it. However the carelesness with which people eat quantities of melons, watermelons, peaches, and other juicy fruit in summer, was reckoned to contribute much towards the progress of this fever; and repeated examples confirmed the truth of this opinion. The jesuit’s bark was reckoned a good remedy against it. It has however often been found to have operated contrary to expectation, though I am ignorant whether it was adulterated, or whether some mistake had been committed in the manner of taking it. Mr.Davis van Horne, a merchant, told me that he cured himself and several other people of this fever, by the leaves of the commonGarden Sage, orSalvia officinalisofLinnæus. The leaves are crushed or pounded in a mortar, and the juice is pressed out of them; this is continued till they get a spoonful of the liquid, which is mixed with lemon juice. This draught is taken about the time that the cold fit comes on; and after taking it three or four times, the fever does not come again.The bark of the white oak was reckoned the best remedy which had as yet been found against the dysentery. It is reduced to a[243]powder, and then taken: some people assured me that in cases where nothing would help, this remedy had given a certain and speedy relief. The people in this place likewise make use of this bark (as is usually done in theEnglishcolonies) to dye wool a brown colour, which looks like that of bohea tea, and does not fade by being exposed to the sun. Among the numerous shells which are found on the sea shore, there are some which by theEnglishhere are calledClams, and which bear some resemblance to the human ear. They have a considerable thickness, and are chiefly white, excepting the pointed end, which both without and within has a blue colour, between purple and violet. They are met with in vast numbers on the sea shore ofNew York,Long Island, and other places. The shells contain a large animal, which is eaten both by theIndiansandEuropeanssettled here.A considerable commerce is carried on in this article, with such Indians as live further up the country. When these people inhabited the coast, they were able to catch their own clams, which at that time made a great part of their food; but at present this is the business of theDutchandEnglish, who live inLong Islandand other[244]maritime provinces. As soon as the shells are caught, the fish is taken out of them, drawn upon a wire, and hung up in the open air, in order to dry by the heat of the sun. When this is done, the fish is put into proper vessels, and carried toAlbanyupon the riverHudson; there the Indians buy them, and reckon them one of their best dishes. Besides theEuropeans, many of the native Indians come annually down to the sea shore, in order to catch clams, proceeding with them afterwards in the manner I have just described.The shells of these clams are used by the Indians as money, and make what they call their wampum; they likewise serve their women for an ornament, when they intend to appear in full dress. These wampums are properly made of the purple parts of the shells, which the Indians value more than the white parts. A traveller, who goes to trade with the Indians, and is well stocked with them, may become a considerable gainer; but if he take gold coin, or bullion, he will undoubtedly be a loser; for the Indians who live farther up the country, put little or no value upon these metals which we reckon so precious, as I have frequently observed in the course of my travels. The Indians formerly made[245]their own wampums, though not without a deal of trouble: but at present theEuropeansemploy themselves that way; especially the inhabitants ofAlbany, who get a considerable profit by it. In the sequel I intend to relate the manner of making the wampum.Novemberthe 2d. Besides the different sects of christians, there are many Jews settled inNew York, who possess great privileges. They have a synagogue and houses, and great country seats of their own property, and are allowed to keep shops in town. They have likewise several ships, which they freight and send out with their own goods. In fine they enjoy all the privileges common to the other inhabitants of this town and province.During my residence atNew York, this time and in the two next years, I was frequently in company with Jews. I was informed among other things, that these people never boiled any meat for themselves on saturday, but that they always did it the day before; and that in winter they kept a fire during the whole saturday. They commonly eat no pork; yet I have been told by several men of credit, that many of them (especially among the young Jews) when travelling, did not not make the least difficulty[246]about eating this, or any other meat that was put before them; even though they were in company with christians. I was in their synagogue last evening for the first time, and this day at noon I visited it again, and each time I was put into a particular seat which was set apart for strangers or christians. A youngRabbiread the divine service, which was partly in Hebrew, and partly in the Rabinical dialect. Both men and women were dressed entirely in theEnglishfashion; the former had all of them their hats on, and did not once take them off during service. The galleries, I observed, were appropriated to the ladies, while the men sat below. During prayers the men spread a white cloth over their heads; which perhaps is to represent sack cloth. But I observed that the wealthier sort of people had a much richer cloth than the poorer ones. Many of the men had Hebrew books, in which they sang and read alternately. TheRabbistood in the middle of the synagogue, and read with his face turned towards the east; he spoke however so fast, as to make it almost impossible for any one to understand what he said.40[247]New York, the capital of a province of the same name is situated under forty deg. and forty min. north lat. and forty seven deg. and four min. of western long. fromLondon; and is about ninety sevenEnglishmiles distant fromPhiladelphia. The situation of it is extremely advantageous for trade: for the town stands upon a point which is formed by two bays; into one of which the riverHudsondischarges itself, not far from the town;New Yorkis therefore on three sides surrounded with water;the ground it is built on, is level in some parts, and hilly in others: the place is generally reckoned very wholesome.The town was first founded by theDutch: this, it is said, was done in the year 1623, when they were yet masters of the country: they called itNew Amsterdam, and the country itselfNew Holland. TheEnglish, towards the end of the year 1664, taking possession of it under the conduct ofDes Cartes, and keeping it by the virtue of the next treaty of peace, gave the name ofNew Yorkto both the town, and the province belonging to it: in size it comes nearest toBostonandPhiladelphia. But with regard to its fine buildings, its opulence, and extensive commerce, it disputes the preference with[248]them: at present it is about half as big again asGothenburghinSweden.The streets do not run so straight as those ofPhiladelphia, and have sometimes considerable bendings: however they are very spacious and well built, and most of them are paved, except in high places, where it has been found useless. In the chief streets there are trees planted, which in summer give them a fine appearance, and during the excessive heat at that time, afford a cooling shade: I found it extremely pleasant to walk in the town, for it seemed quite like a garden: the trees which are planted for this purpose are chiefly of two kinds. TheWater beech, orLinnæus’sPlatanus occidentalis, are the most numerous, and give an agreeable shade in summer, by their great and numerous leaves. TheLocust tree, orLinnæus’sRobinia Pseud-Acaciais likewise frequent: its fine leaves, and the odoriferous scent which exhales from its flowers, make it very proper for being planted in the streets near the houses, and in gardens. There are likewise lime trees and elms, in these walks, but they are not by far so frequent as the others: one seldom met with trees of the same sort next to each other, they being in general planted alternately.[249]Besides numbers of birds of all kinds which make these trees their abode, there are likewise a kind of frogs which frequent them in great numbers in summer, they are Dr.Linnæus’sRana arborea, and especially theAmericanvariety of this animal. They are very clamorous in the evening and in the nights (especially when the days had been hot, and a rain was expected) and in a manner drown the singing of the birds. They frequently make such a noise, that it is difficult for a person to make himself heard.Most of the houses are built of bricks; and are generally strong and neat, and several stories high. Some had, according to old architecture, turned the gable-end towards the streets; but the new houses were altered in this respect. Many of the houses had a balcony on the roof, on which the people used to sit in the evenings in the summer season; and from thence they had a pleasant view of a great part of the town, and likewise of part of the adjacent water and of the opposite shore. The roofs are commonly covered with tiles or shingles: the latter of which are made of the white firtree, orPinus Strobus(Linn.sp. plant. page 1419.) which grows higher up in the country. The inhabitants are of opinion[250]that a roof made of these shingles is as durable as one made inPensylvaniaof theWhite Cedar, orCupressus thyoides(Linn.spec. plant, page 1422.) The walls were whitewashed within, and I did not any where see hangings, with which the people in this country seem in general to be but little acquainted. The walls were quite covered with all sorts of drawings and pictures in small frames. On each side of the chimnies they had usually a sort of alcove; and the wall under the windows was wainscoted, and had benches placed near it. The alcoves, and all the wood work were painted with a bluish grey colour.There are several churches in the town, which deserve some attention. 1.The English Church, built in the year 1695, at the west end of town, consisting of stone, and has a steeple with a bell. 2.The new Dutch Church, which is likewise built of stone, is pretty large and is provided with a steeple, it also has a clock, which is the only one in the town. This church stands almost due from north to south. No particular point of the compass has here been in general attended to in erecting sacred buildings. Some churches, stand as is usual from east to west, others from south to north, and others in different[251]positions. In thisDutchchurch, there is neither altar, vestry, choir, sconces, nor paintings. Some trees are planted round it, which make it look as if it was built in a wood. 3.The old Dutch church, which is also built of stone. It is not so large as the new one. It was painted in the inside, though without any images, and adorned with a small organ, of which governorBurnetmade them a present. The men for the most part sit in the gallery, and the women below. 4.The Presbyterian Church, which is pretty large, and was built but lately. It is of stone, and has a steeple and a bell in it. 5.The German Lutheran Church.6.The German Reformed Church.7.The French Church, for protestant refugees. 8.The Quaker’s Meeting house.9. To these may be added theJewish Synagogue, which I mentioned before.Towards the sea, on the extremity of the promontory is a pretty good fortress, calledFort George, which entirely commands the port, and can defend the town, at least from a sudden attack on the sea side. Besides that, it is likewise secured on the north or towards the shore, by a pallisade, which however (as for a considerable time the people have had nothing to fear[252]from an enemy) is in many places in a very bad state of defence.There is no good water to be met with in the town itself, but at a little distance there is a large spring of good water, which the inhabitants take for their tea, and for the uses of the kitchen. Those however, who are less delicate in this point, make use of the water from the wells in town, though it be very bad. This want of good water lies heavy upon the horses of the strangers that come to this place; for they do not like to drink the water from the wells in the town.Theportis a good one: ships of the greatest burthen can lie in it, quite close up to the bridge: but its water is very salt, as the sea continually comes in upon it; and therefore is never frozen, except in extraordinary cold weather. This is of great advantage to the city and its commerce; for many ships either come in or go out of the port at any time of the year; unless the winds be contrary; a convenience, which as I have before observed, is wanting atPhiladelphia. It is secured from all violent hurricanes from the south-east byLong Islandwhich is situated just before the town: therefore only the storms from thesouth-westare dangerous to the ships which ride at[253]anchor here, because the port is open only on that side. The entrance however has its faults: one of them is, that no men of war can pass through it; for though the water is pretty deep, yet it is not sufficiently so for great ships. Sometimes even merchant ships of a large size have by the rolling of the waves and by sinking down between them, slightly touched the bottom, though without any bad consequences. Besides this, the canal is narrow; and for this reason many ships have been lost here, because they may be easily cast upon a sand, if the ship is not well piloted. Some old people, who had constantly been upon this canal, assured me, that it was neither deeper, nor shallower at present, than in their youth.The common difference between high and low water atNew York, amounts to about six feet,Englishmeasure. But at a certain time in every month, when the tide flows more than commonly, the difference in the height of the water is seven feet.New Yorkprobably carries on a more extensive commerce, than any town in theEnglishNorth American provinces; at least it may be said to equal them:BostonandPhiladelphiahowever come very near up to it. The trade ofNew Yorkextends to[254]many places, and it is said they send more ships from thence toLondon, than they do fromPhiladelphia. They export to that capital all the various sorts of skins which they buy of the Indians, sugar, logwood, and other dying woods, rum, mahogany, and many other goods which are the produce of theWest Indies; together with all the specie which they get in the course of trade. Every year they build several ships here, which are sent toLondon, and there sold; and of late years they have shipped a quantity of iron toEngland. In return for these, they import fromLondonstuffs and every other article ofEnglishgrowth or manufacture, together with all sorts of foreign goods.England, and especiallyLondon, profits immensely by its trade with theAmericancolonies; for not onlyNew York, but likewise all the otherEnglishtowns on the continent, import so many articles fromEngland, that all their specie, together with the goods which they get in other countries, must altogether go toOld England, in order to pay the amount, to which they are however insufficient. From hence it appears how much a well regulated colony contributes to the increase and welfare of its mother country.New Yorksends many ships to theWest[255]Indies, with flour, corn, biscuit, timber, tuns, boards, flesh, fish, butter, and other provisions; together with some of the few fruits that grow here. Many ships go toBostoninNew England, with corn and flour, and take in exchange, flesh, butter, timber, different sorts of fish, and other articles, which they carry further to theWest Indies. They now and then take rum from thence, which is distilled there in great quantities, and sell it here with a considerable advantage. Sometimes they send yachts with goods fromNew YorktoPhiladelphia, and at other times yachts are sent fromPhiladelphiatoNew York; which is only done, as appears from the gazettes, because certain articles are cheaper at one place than at the other. They send ships toIrelandevery year, laden with all kinds ofWest Indiagoods; but especially with linseed, which is reaped in this province. I have been assured, that in some years no less than ten ships have been sent toIreland, laden with nothing but linseed; because it is said the flax inIrelanddoes not afford good seed. But probably the true reason is this: the people ofIreland, in order to have the better flax, make use of the plant before the seed is ripe, and therefore are obliged to send for foreign seed; and hence[256]it becomes one of the chief articles in trade.At this time a bushel of linseed is sold for eight shillings ofNew Yorkcurrency, or exactly a piece of eight.The goods which are shipped to theWest Indies, are sometimes paid for with ready money, and sometimes withWest Indiagoods, which are either first brought toNew York, or immediately sent toEnglandorHolland. If a ship does not chuse to take inWest Indiagoods in its return toNew York, or if no body will freight it, it often goes toNewcastleinEnglandto take in coals for ballast, which when brought home sell for a pretty good price. In many parts of the town coals are made use of, both for kitchen fires, and in rooms, because they are reckoned cheaper than wood, which at present costs thirty Shillings ofNew Yorkcurrency per fathom; of which measure I have before made mention.New Yorkhas likewise some intercourse withSouth Carolina; to which it sends corn, flour, sugar, rum, and other goods, and takes rice in return, which is almost the only commodity exported fromSouth Carolina.The goods with which the province ofNew Yorktrades are not very numerous. They chiefly export the skins of animals,[257]which are bought of the Indians aboutOswego; great quantities of boards, coming for the most part fromAlbany; timber and ready made lumber, from that part of the country which lies about the riverHudson; and lastly wheat, flour, barley, oats and other kinds of corn, which are brought fromNew Jerseyand the cultivated parts of this province. I have seen yachts fromNew Brunswick, laden with wheat which lay loose on board, and with flour packed up into tuns; and also with great quantities of linseed.New Yorklikewise exports some flesh and other provisions out of its own province, but they are very few; nor is the quantity of pease which the people aboutAlbanybring much greater. Iron however may be had more plentifully, as it is found in several parts of this province, and is of a considerable goodness; but all the other products of this country are of little account.Most of the wine, which is drank here and in the other colonies is brought from the Isle ofMadeiraand is very strong and fiery.No manufactures of note have as yet been established here; at present they get all manufactured goods, such as woollen[258]and linen cloth, &c. fromEngland, and especially fromLondon.The riverHudsonis very convenient for the commerce of this city; as it is navigable for near a hundred and fiftyEnglishmiles up the country, and falls into the bay not far from the town, on its western side. During eight months of the year this river is full of yachts, and other greater and lesser vessels, either going toNew Yorkor returning from thence, laden either with inland or foreign goods.I cannot make a just estimate of the ships that annually come to this town or sail from it. But I have found by thePensylvaniagazettes that from the first ofDecemberin 1729, to the fifth ofDecemberin the next year, 211 ships entered the port ofNew York, and 222 cleared it; and since that time there has been a great increase of trade here.The country people come to market inNew York, twice a week much in the same manner, as they do atPhiladelphia; with this difference, that the markets are here kept in several places.The governor of the province ofNew York, resides here, and has a palace in the fort. Among those who have been entrusted with this post,William Burnetdeserves[259]to be had in perpetual remembrance. He was one of the sons of Dr.Thomas Burnet(so celebrated on account of his learning) and seemed to have inherited the knowledge of his father. But his great assiduity in promoting the welfare of this province, is what makes the principal merit of his character. The people ofNew Yorktherefore still reckon him the best governor they ever had, and think that they cannot praise his services too much. The many astronomical observations which he made in these parts, are inserted in severalEnglishworks. In the year 1727, at the accession of king George the II. to the throne ofGreat Britain, he was appointed governor ofNew England. In consequence of this he leftNew York, and went toBoston, where he died universally lamented, on the 7th. ofSeptember1729.An assembly of deputies from all the particular districts of the province ofNew York, is held atNew Yorkonce or twice every year. It may be looked upon as a parliament or dyet in miniature. Every thing relating to the good of the province is here debated. The governor calls the assembly, and dissolves it at pleasure: this is a power which he ought only to make use of, either when no farther debates are[260]necessary, or when the members are not so unanimous in the service of their king and country as is their duty: it frequently however happens, that, led aside by caprice or by interested views, he exerts it to the prejudice of the province. The colony has sometimes had a governor, whose quarrels with the inhabitants, have induced their representatives, or the members of the assembly, through a spirit of revenge, to oppose indifferently every thing he proposed, whether it was beneficial to the country or not. In such cases the governor has made use of his power; dissolving the assembly, and calling another soon after, which however he again dissolved upon the least mark of their ill humour. By this means he so much tired them, by the many expences which they were forced to bear in so short a time, that they were at last glad to unite with him, in his endeavours for the good of the province. But there have likewise been governors who have called assemblies and dissolved them soon after, merely because the representatives did not act according to their whims, or would not give their assent to proposals which were perhaps dangerous or hurtful to the common welfare.The king appoints the governor according[261]to his royal pleasure; but the inhabitants of the province make up his excellency’s salary. Therefore a man entrusted with this place has greater or lesser revenues, according as he knows how to gain the confidence of the inhabitants. There are examples of governors in this, and other provinces ofNorth America, who by their dissensions with the inhabitants of their respective governments, have lost their whole salary, his Majesty having no power to make them pay it. If a governor had no other resource in these circumstances, he would be obliged either to resign his office, or to be content with an income too small for his dignity; or else to conform himself in every thing to the inclinations of the inhabitants: but there are several stated profits, which in some measure make up for this. 1. No one is allowed to keep a public house without the governor’s leave; which is only to be obtained by the payment of a certain fee, according to the circumstances of the person. Some governors therefore, when the inhabitants refused to pay them a salary, have hit upon the expedient of doubling the number of inns in their province. 2. Few people who intend to be married, unless they be very poor, will have their banns published from the[262]pulpit; but instead of this they get licences from the governor, which impower any minister to marry them. Now for such a licence the governor receives about half a guinea, and this collected throughout the whole province, amounts to a considerable sum. 3. The governor signs all passports, and especially of such as go to sea; and this gives him another means of supplying his expences. There are several other advantages allowed to him, but as they are very trifling, I shall omit them.At the above assembly the old laws are reviewed and amended, and new ones are made: and the regulation and circulation of coin, together with all other affairs of that kind are there determined. For it is to be observed that eachEnglishcolony inNorth Americais independent of the other, and that each has its proper laws and coin, and may be looked upon in several lights, as a state by itself. From hence it happens, that in time of war, things go on very slowly and irregularly here: for not only the sense of one province is sometimes directly opposite to that of another; but frequently the views of the governor, and those of the assembly of the same province, are quite different: so that it is easy to see, that, while the people are quarrelling about[263]the best and cheapest manner of carrying on the war, an enemy has it in his power to take one place after another. It has commonly happened that whilst some provinces have been suffering from their enemies, the neighbouring ones were quiet and inactive, and as if it did not in the least concern them. They have frequently taken up two or three years in considering whether they should give assistance to an oppressed sister colony, and sometimes they have expresly declared themselves against it. There are instances of provinces who were not only neuter in these circumstances, but who even carried on a great trade with the power which at that very time was attacking and laying waste some other provinces.TheFrenchinCanada, who are but an inconsiderable body, in comparison with theEnglishinAmerica, have by this position of affairs been able to obtain great Advantages in times of war; for if we judge from the number and power of theEnglish, it would seem very easy for them to get the better of theFrenchinAmerica.41[264]

Thegreyandflying Squirrelsare so tamed by the boys, that they sit on their shoulders, and follow them every where.TheTurkey CocksandHensrun about in the woods of this country, and differ in nothing from our tame ones, except in their superior size, and redder, though more palatable flesh. When their eggs are found in the wood, and put under tameTurkeyhens, the young ones become tame; however when they grow up, it sometimes happens that they fly away; their wings are therefore commonly clipped, especially when young. But the tamed turkeys are commonly much more irascible, than those which are naturally tame. The Indians likewise employ themselves in taming them and keeping them near their huts.WildGeesehave likewise been tamed in the following manner. When the wild geese first come hither in spring, and stop a little while (for they do not breed inPensylvania) the people try to shoot them in the wing, which however is generally mere chance. They then row to the place where[210]the wild goose fell, catch it, and keep it for some time at home, by this means many of them have been made so tame, that when they were let out in the morning, they returned in the evening, but to be more sure of them, their wings are commonly clipped. I have seen wild geese of this kind, which the owner assured me, that he had kept for more than twelve years; but though he kept eight of them, yet he never had the pleasure to see them copulate with the tame ones, or lay eggs.Partridges, which are here in abundance, may likewise be so far tamed, as to run about all day with the poultry, and to come along with them to be fed when they are called. In the same manner I have seenwild Pigeons, which were made so tame as to fly out and return again. In some winters there are immense quantities of wild pigeons inPensylvania.Octoberthe 24th. Of all the rare birds ofNorth America, theHumming birdis the most admirable, or at least most worthy of peculiar attention. Several reasons induce me to believe that few parts of the world can produce its equal. Dr.Linnæuscalls itTrochilus Colubris. TheSwedesand someEnglishmencall it theKing’s bird, but the name ofHumming birdis more common.[211]Catesbyin hisNatural History of Carolina, Vol. i. page 65, tab. 65. has drawn it, in its natural size, with its proper colours, and added a description of it.34In size it is not much bigger than a largehumble bee, and is therefore the least of all birds,35or it is much if there is a lesser species in the world. Its plumage is most beautifully coloured, most of its feathers being green, some grey, and others forming a shining red ring round its neck; the tail glows with fine feathers, changing from green into a brass colour. These birds come here in spring about the time when it begins to grow very warm, and make their nests in summer, but towards autumn they retreat again into the more southern countries ofAmerica. They subsist barely upon the nectar, or sweet juice of flowers contained in that part, which botanists call the nectarium, and which they suck up with their long bills. Of all the flowers, they like those most, which have a long tube, and I[212]have observed that they have fluttered chiefly about theImpatiens Noli tangere, and theMonardawith crimson flowers. An inhabitant of the country is sure to have a number of these beautiful and agreeable little birds before his window all the summer long, if he takes care to plant a bed with all sorts of fine flowers under them. It is indeed a diverting spectacle to see these little active creatures flying about the flowers like bees, and sucking their juices with their long and narrow bills. The flowers of the above-mentionedMonardagrowverticillated, that is, at different distances they surround the stalk, as the flowers of our mint (Mentha) bastard hemp (Galeopsis) mother-wort (Leonurus) and dead nettle (Lamium). It is therefore diverting to see them putting their bills into every flower in the circle. As soon as they have sucked the juice of one flower, they flutter to the next. One that has not seen them would hardly believe in how short a space of time they have had their tongues in all the flowers of a plant, which when large and with a long tube, the little bird by putting its head into them, looks as if it crept with half its body into them.During their sucking the juice out of the flowers they never settle on it, but[213]flutter continually like bees, bend their feet backwards, and move their wings so quick, that they are hardly visible. During this fluttering they make a humming like bees, or like that which is occasioned by the turning of a little wheel. After they have thus, without resting, fluttered for a while, they fly to a neighbouring tree or post, and resume their vigour again. They then return to their humming and sucking. They are not very shy, and I in company with several other people, have not been full two yards from the place where they fluttered about and sucked the flowers; and though we spoke and moved, yet they were no ways disturbed; but on going towards them, they would fly off with the swiftness of an arrow. When several of them were on the same bed, there was always a violent combat between them, in meeting each other at the same flower (for envy was likewise predominant amongst these little creatures) and they attacked with such impetuosity, that it would seem as if the strongest would pierce its antagonist through and through, with its long bill. During the fight, they seem to stand in the air, keeping themselves up, by the incredibly swift motion of their wings. When the windows towards the garden are open, they[214]pursue each other into the rooms, fight a little, and flutter away again. Sometimes they come to a flower which is withering, and has no more juice in it; they then in a fit of anger pluck it off, and throw it on the ground, that it may not mislead them for the future. If a garden contains a great number of these little birds, they are seen to pluck off the flowers in such quantities, that the ground is quite covered with them, and it seems as if this proceeded from a motion of envy.Commonly you hear no other sound than their humming, but when they fly against each other in the air, they make a chirping noise like a sparrow or chicken. I have sometimes walked with several other people in small gardens, and these birds have on all sides fluttered about us, without appearing very shy. They are so small that one would easily mistake them for great humming-bees or butterflies, and their flight resembles that of the former, and is incredibly swift. They have never been observed to feed on insects or fruit; the nectar of flowers, seems therefore to be their only food. Several people have caught some humming birds on account of their singular beauty, and have put them into cages, where they died for want of a proper food.[215]However Mr.Bartramhas kept a couple of them for several weeks together, by feeding them with water in which sugar had been dissolved, and I am of opinion that it would not be difficult to keep them all winter in a hot-house.The humming bird always builds its nest in the middle of a branch of a tree, and it is so small, that it cannot be seen from the ground, but he who intends to see it must get up to the branch. For this reason it is looked upon as a great rarity if a nest is accidentally found, especially as the trees in summer have so thick a foliage. The nest is likewise the least of all; that which is in my possession is quite round, and consists in the inside of a brownish and quite soft down, which seems to have been collected from the leaves of the great mullein orVerbascum Thapsus, which are often found covered with a soft wool of this colour, and the plant is plentiful here. The outside of the nest has a coating of green moss, such as is common on old pales or enclosures and on trees; the inner diameter of the nest is hardly a geometrical inch at the top, and its depth half an inch. It is however known that the humming birds make their nests likewise of flax, hemp, moss, hair and other such soft[216]materials; they are said to lay two eggs, each of the size of a pea.Octoberthe 25th. I employed this day and the next in packing up all the seeds gathered this autumn, for I had an opportunity of sending them toEnglandby the ships which sailed about this time. FromEnglandthey were forwarded toSweden.Octoberthe 27th. In the morning I set out on a little journey toNew York, in company with Mr.Peter Cock, with a view to see the country, and to enquire into the safest road, which I could take in going toCanada, through the desart or uninhabited country between it and theEnglishprovinces.That part where we travelled at present was pretty well inhabited on both sides of the road, byEnglishmen,Germansand otherEuropeans. Plains and hills of different dimensions were seen alternately, mountains and stones, I never saw, excepting a few pebbles. Near almost every farm was a great orchard with peach and apple trees, some of which were yet loaded with fruit.The enclosures were in some parts low enough, for the cattle to leap over them with ease; to prevent this the hogs had a triangular wooden yoke: this custom was as I have already observed, common over[217]all theEnglishplantations. To the horses neck was fastened a piece of wood, which at the lower end had a tooth or hook, fastening in the enclosure, and stopping the horse, just when it lifted its fore feet to leap over; but I know not whether this be a good invention with regard to horses. They were likewise kept in bounds by a piece of wood, one end of which was fastened to one of the fore feet, and the other to one of the hind feet, and it forced them to walk pretty slowly, as at the same time it made it impossible for them to leap over the enclosures. To me it appeared that the horses were subject to all sorts of dangerous accidents from this piece of wood.NearNew Frankfurtwe rode over a little stone bridge, and somewhat further, eight or nineEnglishmiles fromPhiladelphiawe passed over another, which was likewise of stone. There are not yet any milestones put up in the country, and the inhabitants only compute the distances by guess. We were afterwards brought over a river in a ferry, where we paid threepence a person, for ourselves and our horses.At one of the places where we stopt to have our horses fed, the people had aMocking-birdin a cage; and it is here reckoned the best singing bird, though its[218]plumage be very simple, and not showy at all. At this time of the year it does not sing.Linnæuscalls itTurdus polyglottos, andCatesbyin hisNatural History of Carolina, Vol. 1. p. 27. tab. 27, has likewise described and drawn this bird. The people said that it built its nests in the bushes and trees, but is so shy, that if any body come and look at its eggs, it leaves the nest, never to come to it again. Its young ones require great care in being bred up. If they are taken from their mother and put into a cage, she feeds them for three or four days; but seeing no hopes of setting them at liberty, she flies away. It then often happens, that the young ones die soon after, doubtless because they cannot accustom themselves to eat what the people give them. But it is generally imagined, that the last time the mother feeds them, she finds means to poison them, in order, the sooner to deliver them from slavery and wretchedness. These birds stay all summer in the colonies, but retire in autumn to the south, and stay away all winter. They have got the name ofMocking-birds, on account of their skill in imitating the note of almost every bird they hear. The song peculiar to them is excellent, and varied by an infinite change of[219]notes and melody; several people are therefore of opinion, that they are the best singing birds in the world. So much is certain, that few birds come up to them; this is what makes them precious: theSwedescall it by the same name as theEnglish.About noon we came toNew Bristol, a small town inPensylvania, on the banks of theDelaware, about fifteenEnglishmilesfromPhiladelphia. Most of the houses are built of stone, and stand asunder. The inhabitants carry on a small trade, though most of them get their goods fromPhiladelphia. On the other side of the river, almost directly opposite toNew Bristol, lies the town ofBurlington, in which the governor ofNew Jerseyresides.We had now country seats on both sides of the roads. Now we came into a lane enclosed with pales on both sides, including pretty great corn-fields. Next followed a wood, and we perceived for the space of fourEnglishmiles nothing but woods, and a very poor soil, on which theLupinus perennisgrew plentifully and succeeded well. I was overjoyed to see a plant come on so well in these poor dry places, and even began to meditate, how to improve this discovery in a soil like that which it inhabited. But I afterwards had the mortification to find that[220]the horses and cows eat almost all the other plants, but left the lupine, which was however very green, looked very fresh, and was extremely soft to the touch. Perhaps means may be found out of making this plant palatable to the cattle. In the evening we arrived atTrenton, after having previously passed theDelawarein a ferry.Octoberthe 28th.Trentonis a long narrow town, situate at some distance from the riverDelaware, on a sandy plain; it belongs toNew Jersey, and they reckon it thirty miles fromPhiladelphia. It has two small churches, one for the people belonging to the church ofEngland, the other for the presbyterians. The houses are partly built of stone, though most of them are made of wood or planks, commonly two stories high, together with a cellar below the building, and a kitchen under ground, close to the cellar. The houses stand at a moderate distance from one another. They are commonly built so, that the street passes along one side of the houses, while gardens of different dimensions bound the other side; in each garden is a draw-well; the place is reckoned very healthy. Our landlord told us, that twenty-two years ago, when he first settled here, there was hardly more than one house; but from that[221]timeTrentonhas encreased so much, that there are at present near a hundred houses. The houses were within divided into several rooms by their partitions of boards. The inhabitants of the place carried on a small trade with the goods which they got fromPhiladelphia, but their chief gain consisted in the arrival of the numerous travellers between that city andNew York; for they are commonly brought by theTrentonYachts fromPhiladelphiatoTrenton, or from thence toPhiladelphia. But fromTrentonfurther toNew Brunswick, the travellers go in the waggons which set out every day for that place. Several of the inhabitants however likewise subsist on the carriage for all sorts of goods, which are every day sent in great quantities, either fromPhiladelphiatoNew York, or from thence to the former place; for betweenPhiladelphiaandTrentonall goods go by water, but betweenTrentonandNew Brunswickthey are all carried by land, and both these conveniences belong to people of this town.For the yachts which go between this place and the capital ofPensylvania, they usually pay a shilling and six-pence ofPensylvaniacurrency per person, and every one pays besides for his baggage. Every passenger[222]must provide meat and drink for himself, or pay some settled fare: betweenTrentonandNew Brunswicka person pays two shillings and sixpence, and the baggage is likewise paid for separately.We continued our journey in the morning; the country through which we passed was for the greatest part level, though sometimes there were some long hills, some parts were covered with trees, but far the greater part of the country was without woods; on the other hand I never saw any place inAmerica, the towns excepted, so well peopled. An old man, who lived in this neighbourhood and accompanied us for some part of the road, however assured me, that he could well remember the time, when betweenTrentonandNew Brunswickthere were not above three farms, and he reckoned it was about fifty and some odd years ago. During the greater part of the day we had very extensive corn-fields on both sides of the road, and commonly towards the south the country had a great declivity. Near almost every farm was a spacious orchard full of peaches and apple trees, and in some of them the fruit was fallen from the trees in such quantities, as to cover nearly the whole surface. Part of it they left to rot, since they could not take it all in[223]and consume it. Wherever we passed by we were always welcome to go into the fine orchards, and gather our hats and pockets full of the choicest fruit, without the possessor’s so much as looking after it. Cherry trees were planted near the farms, on the roads, &c.Thebarns36had a peculiar kind of construction hereabouts, which I will give a concise description of. The whole building was very great, so as almost to equal a small church; the roof was pretty high, covered with wooden shingles, declining on both sides, but not steep: the walls which support it, were not much higher than a full grown man; but on the other hand the breadth of the building was the more considerable: in the middle was the threshing floor, and above it, or in the loft or garret they put the corn which was not yet threshed, the straw, or any thing else, according to the season: on one side were stables for the horses, and on the other for the cows. And the small cattle had likewise their particular stables or styes; on both ends of the buildings were great gates,[224]so that one could come in with a cart and horses through one of them, and go out at the other: here was therefore under one roof the threshing floor, the barn, the stables, the hay loft, the coach house, &c. This kind of buildings is chiefly made use of by theDutchandGermans; for it is to be observed that the country betweenTrentonandNew York, is inhabited by fewEnglishmen, but instead of them byGermansorDutch,37the latter of which especially are numerous.Before I proceed, I find it necessary to remark one thing with regard to the Indians, or oldAmericans. For this account may perhaps meet with readers, who, like many people of my acquaintance, may be of opinion that allNorth America, was almost wholly inhabited by savage or heathen nations, and they may be astonished, that I do not mention them more frequently in my account. Others may perhaps imagine, that when I mention in my journal, that the country is much cultivated, that in several places, houses of stone or wood are built, round which are corn-fields, gardens,[225]and orchards, that I am speaking of the property of theIndians; to undeceive them, I here give the following explication. The country especially all along the coasts, in theEnglishcolonies, is inhabited byEuropeans, who in some places are already so numerous, that few parts ofEuropeare more populous. TheIndianshave sold the country to theEuropeans, and have retired further up: in most parts you may travel twentySwedishmiles, or about a hundred and twentyEnglishmiles, from the sea shore, before you reach the first habitations of theIndians. And it is very possible for a person to have been atPhiladelphiaand other towns on the sea shore for half a year together, without so much as seeing anIndian. I intend in the sequel to give a more circumstantial account of them, their religion, manners, oeconomy, and other particulars relating to them: at present I return to the sequel of my journal.About nine English miles fromTrenton, the ground began to change its colour; hitherto it consisted of a considerable quantity of hazel coloured clay, but at present the earth was a reddish brown, so that it sometimes had a purple colour, and sometimes looked like logwood. This colour came from a red limestone which approached[226]very near to that which is on the mountainKinnekulleinWest Gothland, and makes a particular stratum in the rock. TheAmericanredlimestonetherefore seems to be merely a variety of that I saw inSweden, it lay in strata of two or three fingers thickness; but was divisible into many thinner plates or shivers, whose surface was seldom flat and smooth, but commonly rough: the strata themselves were frequently cut off by horizontal cracks. When these stones were exposed to the air, they by degrees shivered and withered into pieces, and at last turned into dust. The people of this neighbourhood did not know how to make any use of it; the soil above is sometimes rich and sometimes poor: in such places where the people had lately dug new wells, I perceived, that most of the rubbish which was thrown up consisted of such a species of stone. This reddish brown earth we always saw till nearNew Brunswick, where it is particularly plentiful. The banks of the river, shewed in many places nothing but strata ofLimestone, which did not run horizontally, but dipped very much.About ten o’clock in the morning we came toPrince-town, which is situated in a plain. Most of the houses are built of wood, and are not contiguous, so that there[227]are gardens and pastures between them. As these parts were sooner inhabited byEuropeansthanPensylvania, the woods were likewise more cut away, and the country more cultivated, so that one might have imagined himself to be inEurope.We now thought of continuing our journey, but as it began to rain very heavily, and continued so during the whole day and part of the night, we were forced to stay till next morning,Octoberthe 29th. This morning we proceeded on our journey. The country was pretty well peopled; however there were yet great woods in many places: they all consisted of deciduous trees: and I did not perceive a single tree of the fir kind, till I came toNew Brunswick. The ground was level, and did not seem to be every where of the richest kind. In some places it had hillocks, losing themselves almost imperceptibly in the plains, which were commonly crossed by a rivulet. Almost near every farm-house were great orchards. The houses were commonly built of timber, and at some distance by themselves stood the ovens for baking, consisting commonly of clay.On a hill covered with trees, and calledRockhill, I saw several pieces of stone or[228]rock, so big, that they would have required three men to roll them down. But besides these there were few great stories in the country; for most of those which we saw, could easily be lifted up by a single man. In another place we perceived a number of little round pebbles, but we did not meet with either mountains or rocks.About noon we arrived atNew Brunswick, a pretty little town in the province ofNew Jersey, in a valley on the west side of the riverRareton; on account of its low situation, it cannot be seen (coming fromPensylvania) before you get to the top of the hill, which is quite close up to it: the town extends north and south along the river. TheGermaninhabitants have two churches, one of stone and the other of wood; theEnglishchurch is of the latter kind, but the presbyterians were building one of stone: the town house makes likewise a pretty good appearance. Some of the other houses are built of bricks, but most of them are made either wholly of wood, or of bricks and wood; the wooden houses are not made of strong timber, but merely of boards or planks, which are within joined by laths: such houses as consist of both wood and bricks, have only the wall towards the street of bricks, all the other sides being merely of planks. This[229]peculiar kind of ostentation would easily lead a traveller, who passes through the town in haste, to believe that most of the houses are built of bricks. The houses were covered with shingles; before each door there was an elevation, to which you ascend by some steps from the street; it resembled a small balcony, and had some benches on both sides, on which the people sat in the evening, in order to enjoy the fresh air, and to have the pleasure of viewing those who passed by. The town has only one street lengthways, and at its northern extremity there is a street across; both of these are of a considerable length.The riverRaretonpasses hard by the town, and is deep enough for great yachts to come up; its breadth near the town is within the reach of a common gun shot; the tide comes up several miles beyond the town, the yachts were placed lengthways along the bridge; the river has very high and pretty steep banks on both sides, but near the town there are no such banks, it being situated in a low valley. One of the streets is almost entirely inhabited byDutchmen, who came hither fromAlbany, and for that reason they call itAlbany street: theseDutchpeople only keep company among themselves, and seldom or never go amongst the other inhabitants, living as it were[230]quite separate from them.New Brunswickbelongs toNew Jersey; however the greatest part, or rather all its trade is toNew York, which is about forty English miles distant; to that place they send corn, flour in great quantities, bread, several other necessaries, a great quantity of linseed, boards timber, wooden vessels, and all sorts of carpenters work. Several small yachts are every day going backwards and forwards between these two towns. The inhabitants likewise get a considerable profit from the travellers, who every hour pass through, on the high road.The steep banks consist of the red limestone, which I have before described. It is here plainly visible that the strata are not horizontal, but considerably dipping, especially towards the south. The weather and the air has in a great measure dissolved the stone here: I enquired, whether it could not be made use of, but was assured, that in building houses it was entirely useless; for, though it is hard and permanent under ground, yet on being dug out, and exposed for some time to the air, it first crumbles into greater, then into lesser pieces, and at last is converted into dust. An inhabitant of this town, however tried to build a house with this sort of stone, but[231]its outsides being exposed to the air, soon began to change so much, that the owner was obliged to put boards all over the wall, to preserve it from falling to pieces. The people however pretend that this stone is a very good manure, if it is scattered upon the corn-fields in its rubbish state, for it is said to stifle the weeds: it is therefore made use of both on the fields and in gardens.38Towards the evening we continued our journey, and were ferried over the riverRareton, together with our horses. In a very dry summer, and when the tide has ebbed, it is by no means dangerous to ride through this river. On the opposite shore the red juniper tree was pretty abundant. The country through which we now passed was pretty well inhabited, but in most places full of small pebbles.We sawGuinea Hensin many places where we passed by. They sometimes run about the fields, at a good distance from the farm-houses.About eight English miles fromNew Brunswick, the road divided. We took that on the left, for that on the right leads[232]toAmboy, the chief sea-town inNew Jersey. The country now made a charming appearance; some parts being high, others forming vallies, and all of them well cultivated. From the hills you had a prospect of houses, farms, gardens, corn-fields, forests, lakes, islands, roads, and pastures.In most of the places where we travelled this day the colour of the ground was reddish. I make no doubt, but there were strata of the before-mentioned red limestone under it. Sometimes the ground looked very like a cinnabar ore.Wood-bridgeis a small village in a plain, consisting of a few houses: we stopped here to rest our horses a little. The houses were most of them built of boards; the walls had a covering of shingles on the outside; these shingles were round at one end, and all of a length in each row: some of the houses had an Italian roof, but the greatest part had roofs with pediments; most of them were covered with shingles. In most places we met with wells and buckets to draw up the water.Elizabeth-townis a small town, about twenty English miles distant fromNew Brunswick: we arrived there immediately after sun setting. Its houses are mostly scattered, but well built, and generally[233]of boards, with a roof of shingles, and walls covered with the same. There were likewise some stone buildings. A little rivulet passes through the town from west to east; it is almost reduced to nothing when the water ebbs away, but with the full tide they can bring up small yachts. Here were two fine churches, each of which made a much better appearance than any one inPhiladelphia. That belonging to the people of the church ofEnglandwas built of bricks, had a steeple with bells, and a balustrade round it, from which there was a prospect of the country. The meeting house of the presbyterians was built of wood, but had both a steeple and bells, and was, like the other houses covered with shingles. The town house made likewise a good appearance, and had a spire with a bell. The banks of the river were red, from the reddish limestone; both in and about the town were many gardens and orchards, and it might truly be said thatElizabeth-townwas situated in a garden; the ground hereabouts being even and well cultivated.The geese, in some of the places by which we passed this day and the next, carried three or four little sticks, of the length of a foot about their necks; they[234]were fastened crossways, to prevent them from creeping through half broken enclosures. They look extremely awkward, and it is very diverting to see them in this attire.At night we took up our lodgings atElizabeth-town Point, an inn about twoEnglishmiles distant from the town, and the last house on this road belonging toNew Jersey. The man who had taken the lease of it, together with that of the ferry near it, told us that he paid a hundred and ten pounds ofPensylvaniacurrency to the owner.Octoberthe 30th. We were ready to proceed on our journey at sun-rising. Near the inn where we had passed the night, we were to cross a river, and we were brought over, together with our horses, in a wretched half rotten ferry. This river came a considerable way out of the country, and small vessels could easily sail up it. This was a great advantage to the inhabitants of the neighbouring country, giving them an opportunity of sending their goods toNew Yorkwith great ease; and they even made use of it for trading to theWest Indies. The country was low on both sides of the river, and consisted of meadows. But there was no other hay to be got, than such as commonly[235]grows in swampy grounds; for as the tide comes up in this river, these low plains were sometimes overflowed when the water was high. The people hereabouts are said to be troubled in summer with immense swarms of gnats or musquetoes, which sting them and their cattle. This was ascribed to the low swampy meadows, on which these insects deposite their eggs, which are afterwards hatched by the heat.As soon as we had got over the river, we were uponStaten Island, which is quite surrounded with salt water. This is the beginning of the province ofNew York. Most of the people settled here wereDutchmen, or such as came hither whilst theDutchwere yet in possession of this place. But at present they were scattered among theEnglishand otherEuropeaninhabitants, and spokeEnglishfor the greatest part. The prospect of the country here is extremely pleasing, as it is not so much intercepted by woods, but offers more cultivated fields to view. Hills and vallies still continued, as usual, to change alternately.The farms were near each other. Most of the houses were wooden; however some were built of stone. Near every farm-house was an orchard with apple trees: the fruit was already for the greatest part gathered.[236]Here, and on the whole journey before, I observed a press for cyder at every farm-house, made in different manners, by which the people had already pressed the juice out of the apples, or were just busied with that work. Some people made use of a wheel made of thick oak planks, which turned upon a wooden axis by means of a horse drawing it, much in the same manner as the people do with woad;39except that here the wheel runs upon planks. Cherry trees stood along the enclosures round corn-fields.The corn-fields were excellently situated, and either sown with wheat or rye. They had no ditches on their sides, but (as is usual inEngland) only furrows, drawn at greater or lesser distances from each other.In one place we observed a water mill, so situated, that when the tide flowed, the water ran into a pond: but when it ebbed, the floodgate was drawn up, and the mill driven by the water, flowing out of the pond.About eight o’clock in the morning we arrived at the place where we were to cross[237]the water, in order to come to the town ofNew York. We left our horses here and went on board the yacht: we were to go eightEnglishmiles by sea; however we landed about eleven o’clock in the morning atNew York. We saw a kind of wild ducks in immense quantities upon the water: the people called themBlue bills, and they seemed to be the same with ourPintail ducks, orLinnæus’sAnas acuta: but they were very shy. On the shore of the continent we saw some very fine sloping corn-fields, which at present looked quite green, the corn being already come up. We saw many boats in which the fishermen were busy catching oysters: to this purpose they make use of a kind of rakes with long iron teeth bent inwards; these they used either singly or two tied together in such a manner, that the teeth were turned towards each other.Octoberthe 31st. AboutNew Yorkthey find innumerable quantities of excellent oysters, and there are few places which have oysters of such an exquisite taste, and of so great a size: they are pickled and sent to theWest Indiesand other places; which is done in the following manner. As soon as the oysters are caught, their shells are opened, and the fish washed clean;[238]some water is then poured into a pot, the oysters are put into it, and they must boil for a while; the pot is then taken off from the fire again, the oysters taken out and put upon a dish, till they are somewhat dry: then you take some mace, allspice, black pepper, and as much vinegar as you think is sufficient to give a sourish taste. All this is mixed with half the liquor in which the oysters were boiled, and put over the fire again. While you boil it great care is to be taken in scumming off the thick scum; at last the whole pickle is poured into a glass or earthen vessel, the oysters are put to it, and the vessel is well stopped to keep out the air. In this manner, oysters will keep for years together, and may be sent to the most distant parts of the world.The merchants here buy up great quantities of oysters about this time, pickle them in the above-mentioned manner, and send them to theWest Indies: by which they frequently make a considerable profit: for, the oysters, which cost them five shillings of their currency, they commonly sell for a pistole, or about six times as much as they gave for them; and sometimes they get even more: the oysters which are thus pickled have a very fine flavour. The following is another way of preserving oysters:[239]they are taken out of the shells, fried with butter, put into a glass or earthen vessel with the melted butter over them, so that they are quite covered with it, and no air can get to them. Oysters prepared in this manner have likewise an agreeable taste, and are exported to theWest Indiesand other parts.Oystersare here reckoned very wholesome, some people assured us, that they had not felt the least inconvenience, after eating a considerable quantity of them. It is likewise a common rule here that oysters are best in those months which have anrin their name, such asSeptember,October, &c; but that they are not so good in other months; however there are poor people, who live all the year long upon nothing but oysters with bread.The sea nearNew York, affords annually the greatest quantity of oysters. They are found chiefly in a muddy ground, where they lie in the slime, and are not so frequent in a sandy bottom: a rockey and a stony bottom is seldom found here. The oyster shells are gathered in great heaps, and burnt into a lime, which by some people is made use of in building houses, but is not reckoned so good as that made of limestone. On our journey toNew York, we[240]saw high heaps of oyster shells near the farm-houses, upon the sea shore; and aboutNew York, we observed the people had carried them upon the fields which were sown with wheat. However they were entire, and not crushed.TheIndianswho inhabited the coast before the arrival of theEuropeans, have made oysters and other shell fish their chief food; and at present whenever they come to a salt water where oysters are to be got, they are very active in catching them, and sell them in great quantities to otherIndianswho live higher up the country: for this reason you see immense numbers of oyster and muscle shells piled up near such places, where you are certain that theIndiansformerly built their huts. This circumstance ought to make us cautious in maintaining, that in all places on the sea shore, or higher up in the country, where such heaps of shells are to be met with, the latter have lain there ever since the time that those places were overflowed by the sea.Lobstersare likewise plentyfully caught hereabouts, pickled much in the same way as oysters, and sent to several places. I was told of a very remarkable circumstance about these lobsters, and I have afterwards frequently heard it mentioned. The coast[241]ofNew Yorkhad alreadyEuropeaninhabitants for a considerable time, yet no lobsters were to be met with on that coast; and though the people fished ever so often, they could never find any signs of lobsters being in this part of the sea: they were therefore continually brought in great wellboats fromNew England, where they are plentiful; but it happened that one of these wellboats broke in pieces nearHellgate, about tenEnglishmiles fromNew York, and all the lobsters in it got off. Since that time they have so multiplied in this part of the sea, that they are now caught in the greatest abundance.Novemberthe 1st. A kind of cold fever, which theEnglishin this country callFever and Ague, is very common in several parts of theEnglishcolonies. There are however other parts, where the people have never felt it. I will in the sequel describe the symptoms of this disease at large. Several of the most considerable inhabitants of this town, assured me that this disease was not near so common inNew York, as it is inPensylvania, where ten were seized by it, to one in the former province; therefore they were of opinion, that this disease was occasioned by the vapours arising from stagnant fresh water, from[242]marshes, and from rivers; for which reason those provinces situated on the sea shore, could not be so much affected by it. However the carelesness with which people eat quantities of melons, watermelons, peaches, and other juicy fruit in summer, was reckoned to contribute much towards the progress of this fever; and repeated examples confirmed the truth of this opinion. The jesuit’s bark was reckoned a good remedy against it. It has however often been found to have operated contrary to expectation, though I am ignorant whether it was adulterated, or whether some mistake had been committed in the manner of taking it. Mr.Davis van Horne, a merchant, told me that he cured himself and several other people of this fever, by the leaves of the commonGarden Sage, orSalvia officinalisofLinnæus. The leaves are crushed or pounded in a mortar, and the juice is pressed out of them; this is continued till they get a spoonful of the liquid, which is mixed with lemon juice. This draught is taken about the time that the cold fit comes on; and after taking it three or four times, the fever does not come again.The bark of the white oak was reckoned the best remedy which had as yet been found against the dysentery. It is reduced to a[243]powder, and then taken: some people assured me that in cases where nothing would help, this remedy had given a certain and speedy relief. The people in this place likewise make use of this bark (as is usually done in theEnglishcolonies) to dye wool a brown colour, which looks like that of bohea tea, and does not fade by being exposed to the sun. Among the numerous shells which are found on the sea shore, there are some which by theEnglishhere are calledClams, and which bear some resemblance to the human ear. They have a considerable thickness, and are chiefly white, excepting the pointed end, which both without and within has a blue colour, between purple and violet. They are met with in vast numbers on the sea shore ofNew York,Long Island, and other places. The shells contain a large animal, which is eaten both by theIndiansandEuropeanssettled here.A considerable commerce is carried on in this article, with such Indians as live further up the country. When these people inhabited the coast, they were able to catch their own clams, which at that time made a great part of their food; but at present this is the business of theDutchandEnglish, who live inLong Islandand other[244]maritime provinces. As soon as the shells are caught, the fish is taken out of them, drawn upon a wire, and hung up in the open air, in order to dry by the heat of the sun. When this is done, the fish is put into proper vessels, and carried toAlbanyupon the riverHudson; there the Indians buy them, and reckon them one of their best dishes. Besides theEuropeans, many of the native Indians come annually down to the sea shore, in order to catch clams, proceeding with them afterwards in the manner I have just described.The shells of these clams are used by the Indians as money, and make what they call their wampum; they likewise serve their women for an ornament, when they intend to appear in full dress. These wampums are properly made of the purple parts of the shells, which the Indians value more than the white parts. A traveller, who goes to trade with the Indians, and is well stocked with them, may become a considerable gainer; but if he take gold coin, or bullion, he will undoubtedly be a loser; for the Indians who live farther up the country, put little or no value upon these metals which we reckon so precious, as I have frequently observed in the course of my travels. The Indians formerly made[245]their own wampums, though not without a deal of trouble: but at present theEuropeansemploy themselves that way; especially the inhabitants ofAlbany, who get a considerable profit by it. In the sequel I intend to relate the manner of making the wampum.Novemberthe 2d. Besides the different sects of christians, there are many Jews settled inNew York, who possess great privileges. They have a synagogue and houses, and great country seats of their own property, and are allowed to keep shops in town. They have likewise several ships, which they freight and send out with their own goods. In fine they enjoy all the privileges common to the other inhabitants of this town and province.During my residence atNew York, this time and in the two next years, I was frequently in company with Jews. I was informed among other things, that these people never boiled any meat for themselves on saturday, but that they always did it the day before; and that in winter they kept a fire during the whole saturday. They commonly eat no pork; yet I have been told by several men of credit, that many of them (especially among the young Jews) when travelling, did not not make the least difficulty[246]about eating this, or any other meat that was put before them; even though they were in company with christians. I was in their synagogue last evening for the first time, and this day at noon I visited it again, and each time I was put into a particular seat which was set apart for strangers or christians. A youngRabbiread the divine service, which was partly in Hebrew, and partly in the Rabinical dialect. Both men and women were dressed entirely in theEnglishfashion; the former had all of them their hats on, and did not once take them off during service. The galleries, I observed, were appropriated to the ladies, while the men sat below. During prayers the men spread a white cloth over their heads; which perhaps is to represent sack cloth. But I observed that the wealthier sort of people had a much richer cloth than the poorer ones. Many of the men had Hebrew books, in which they sang and read alternately. TheRabbistood in the middle of the synagogue, and read with his face turned towards the east; he spoke however so fast, as to make it almost impossible for any one to understand what he said.40[247]New York, the capital of a province of the same name is situated under forty deg. and forty min. north lat. and forty seven deg. and four min. of western long. fromLondon; and is about ninety sevenEnglishmiles distant fromPhiladelphia. The situation of it is extremely advantageous for trade: for the town stands upon a point which is formed by two bays; into one of which the riverHudsondischarges itself, not far from the town;New Yorkis therefore on three sides surrounded with water;the ground it is built on, is level in some parts, and hilly in others: the place is generally reckoned very wholesome.The town was first founded by theDutch: this, it is said, was done in the year 1623, when they were yet masters of the country: they called itNew Amsterdam, and the country itselfNew Holland. TheEnglish, towards the end of the year 1664, taking possession of it under the conduct ofDes Cartes, and keeping it by the virtue of the next treaty of peace, gave the name ofNew Yorkto both the town, and the province belonging to it: in size it comes nearest toBostonandPhiladelphia. But with regard to its fine buildings, its opulence, and extensive commerce, it disputes the preference with[248]them: at present it is about half as big again asGothenburghinSweden.The streets do not run so straight as those ofPhiladelphia, and have sometimes considerable bendings: however they are very spacious and well built, and most of them are paved, except in high places, where it has been found useless. In the chief streets there are trees planted, which in summer give them a fine appearance, and during the excessive heat at that time, afford a cooling shade: I found it extremely pleasant to walk in the town, for it seemed quite like a garden: the trees which are planted for this purpose are chiefly of two kinds. TheWater beech, orLinnæus’sPlatanus occidentalis, are the most numerous, and give an agreeable shade in summer, by their great and numerous leaves. TheLocust tree, orLinnæus’sRobinia Pseud-Acaciais likewise frequent: its fine leaves, and the odoriferous scent which exhales from its flowers, make it very proper for being planted in the streets near the houses, and in gardens. There are likewise lime trees and elms, in these walks, but they are not by far so frequent as the others: one seldom met with trees of the same sort next to each other, they being in general planted alternately.[249]Besides numbers of birds of all kinds which make these trees their abode, there are likewise a kind of frogs which frequent them in great numbers in summer, they are Dr.Linnæus’sRana arborea, and especially theAmericanvariety of this animal. They are very clamorous in the evening and in the nights (especially when the days had been hot, and a rain was expected) and in a manner drown the singing of the birds. They frequently make such a noise, that it is difficult for a person to make himself heard.Most of the houses are built of bricks; and are generally strong and neat, and several stories high. Some had, according to old architecture, turned the gable-end towards the streets; but the new houses were altered in this respect. Many of the houses had a balcony on the roof, on which the people used to sit in the evenings in the summer season; and from thence they had a pleasant view of a great part of the town, and likewise of part of the adjacent water and of the opposite shore. The roofs are commonly covered with tiles or shingles: the latter of which are made of the white firtree, orPinus Strobus(Linn.sp. plant. page 1419.) which grows higher up in the country. The inhabitants are of opinion[250]that a roof made of these shingles is as durable as one made inPensylvaniaof theWhite Cedar, orCupressus thyoides(Linn.spec. plant, page 1422.) The walls were whitewashed within, and I did not any where see hangings, with which the people in this country seem in general to be but little acquainted. The walls were quite covered with all sorts of drawings and pictures in small frames. On each side of the chimnies they had usually a sort of alcove; and the wall under the windows was wainscoted, and had benches placed near it. The alcoves, and all the wood work were painted with a bluish grey colour.There are several churches in the town, which deserve some attention. 1.The English Church, built in the year 1695, at the west end of town, consisting of stone, and has a steeple with a bell. 2.The new Dutch Church, which is likewise built of stone, is pretty large and is provided with a steeple, it also has a clock, which is the only one in the town. This church stands almost due from north to south. No particular point of the compass has here been in general attended to in erecting sacred buildings. Some churches, stand as is usual from east to west, others from south to north, and others in different[251]positions. In thisDutchchurch, there is neither altar, vestry, choir, sconces, nor paintings. Some trees are planted round it, which make it look as if it was built in a wood. 3.The old Dutch church, which is also built of stone. It is not so large as the new one. It was painted in the inside, though without any images, and adorned with a small organ, of which governorBurnetmade them a present. The men for the most part sit in the gallery, and the women below. 4.The Presbyterian Church, which is pretty large, and was built but lately. It is of stone, and has a steeple and a bell in it. 5.The German Lutheran Church.6.The German Reformed Church.7.The French Church, for protestant refugees. 8.The Quaker’s Meeting house.9. To these may be added theJewish Synagogue, which I mentioned before.Towards the sea, on the extremity of the promontory is a pretty good fortress, calledFort George, which entirely commands the port, and can defend the town, at least from a sudden attack on the sea side. Besides that, it is likewise secured on the north or towards the shore, by a pallisade, which however (as for a considerable time the people have had nothing to fear[252]from an enemy) is in many places in a very bad state of defence.There is no good water to be met with in the town itself, but at a little distance there is a large spring of good water, which the inhabitants take for their tea, and for the uses of the kitchen. Those however, who are less delicate in this point, make use of the water from the wells in town, though it be very bad. This want of good water lies heavy upon the horses of the strangers that come to this place; for they do not like to drink the water from the wells in the town.Theportis a good one: ships of the greatest burthen can lie in it, quite close up to the bridge: but its water is very salt, as the sea continually comes in upon it; and therefore is never frozen, except in extraordinary cold weather. This is of great advantage to the city and its commerce; for many ships either come in or go out of the port at any time of the year; unless the winds be contrary; a convenience, which as I have before observed, is wanting atPhiladelphia. It is secured from all violent hurricanes from the south-east byLong Islandwhich is situated just before the town: therefore only the storms from thesouth-westare dangerous to the ships which ride at[253]anchor here, because the port is open only on that side. The entrance however has its faults: one of them is, that no men of war can pass through it; for though the water is pretty deep, yet it is not sufficiently so for great ships. Sometimes even merchant ships of a large size have by the rolling of the waves and by sinking down between them, slightly touched the bottom, though without any bad consequences. Besides this, the canal is narrow; and for this reason many ships have been lost here, because they may be easily cast upon a sand, if the ship is not well piloted. Some old people, who had constantly been upon this canal, assured me, that it was neither deeper, nor shallower at present, than in their youth.The common difference between high and low water atNew York, amounts to about six feet,Englishmeasure. But at a certain time in every month, when the tide flows more than commonly, the difference in the height of the water is seven feet.New Yorkprobably carries on a more extensive commerce, than any town in theEnglishNorth American provinces; at least it may be said to equal them:BostonandPhiladelphiahowever come very near up to it. The trade ofNew Yorkextends to[254]many places, and it is said they send more ships from thence toLondon, than they do fromPhiladelphia. They export to that capital all the various sorts of skins which they buy of the Indians, sugar, logwood, and other dying woods, rum, mahogany, and many other goods which are the produce of theWest Indies; together with all the specie which they get in the course of trade. Every year they build several ships here, which are sent toLondon, and there sold; and of late years they have shipped a quantity of iron toEngland. In return for these, they import fromLondonstuffs and every other article ofEnglishgrowth or manufacture, together with all sorts of foreign goods.England, and especiallyLondon, profits immensely by its trade with theAmericancolonies; for not onlyNew York, but likewise all the otherEnglishtowns on the continent, import so many articles fromEngland, that all their specie, together with the goods which they get in other countries, must altogether go toOld England, in order to pay the amount, to which they are however insufficient. From hence it appears how much a well regulated colony contributes to the increase and welfare of its mother country.New Yorksends many ships to theWest[255]Indies, with flour, corn, biscuit, timber, tuns, boards, flesh, fish, butter, and other provisions; together with some of the few fruits that grow here. Many ships go toBostoninNew England, with corn and flour, and take in exchange, flesh, butter, timber, different sorts of fish, and other articles, which they carry further to theWest Indies. They now and then take rum from thence, which is distilled there in great quantities, and sell it here with a considerable advantage. Sometimes they send yachts with goods fromNew YorktoPhiladelphia, and at other times yachts are sent fromPhiladelphiatoNew York; which is only done, as appears from the gazettes, because certain articles are cheaper at one place than at the other. They send ships toIrelandevery year, laden with all kinds ofWest Indiagoods; but especially with linseed, which is reaped in this province. I have been assured, that in some years no less than ten ships have been sent toIreland, laden with nothing but linseed; because it is said the flax inIrelanddoes not afford good seed. But probably the true reason is this: the people ofIreland, in order to have the better flax, make use of the plant before the seed is ripe, and therefore are obliged to send for foreign seed; and hence[256]it becomes one of the chief articles in trade.At this time a bushel of linseed is sold for eight shillings ofNew Yorkcurrency, or exactly a piece of eight.The goods which are shipped to theWest Indies, are sometimes paid for with ready money, and sometimes withWest Indiagoods, which are either first brought toNew York, or immediately sent toEnglandorHolland. If a ship does not chuse to take inWest Indiagoods in its return toNew York, or if no body will freight it, it often goes toNewcastleinEnglandto take in coals for ballast, which when brought home sell for a pretty good price. In many parts of the town coals are made use of, both for kitchen fires, and in rooms, because they are reckoned cheaper than wood, which at present costs thirty Shillings ofNew Yorkcurrency per fathom; of which measure I have before made mention.New Yorkhas likewise some intercourse withSouth Carolina; to which it sends corn, flour, sugar, rum, and other goods, and takes rice in return, which is almost the only commodity exported fromSouth Carolina.The goods with which the province ofNew Yorktrades are not very numerous. They chiefly export the skins of animals,[257]which are bought of the Indians aboutOswego; great quantities of boards, coming for the most part fromAlbany; timber and ready made lumber, from that part of the country which lies about the riverHudson; and lastly wheat, flour, barley, oats and other kinds of corn, which are brought fromNew Jerseyand the cultivated parts of this province. I have seen yachts fromNew Brunswick, laden with wheat which lay loose on board, and with flour packed up into tuns; and also with great quantities of linseed.New Yorklikewise exports some flesh and other provisions out of its own province, but they are very few; nor is the quantity of pease which the people aboutAlbanybring much greater. Iron however may be had more plentifully, as it is found in several parts of this province, and is of a considerable goodness; but all the other products of this country are of little account.Most of the wine, which is drank here and in the other colonies is brought from the Isle ofMadeiraand is very strong and fiery.No manufactures of note have as yet been established here; at present they get all manufactured goods, such as woollen[258]and linen cloth, &c. fromEngland, and especially fromLondon.The riverHudsonis very convenient for the commerce of this city; as it is navigable for near a hundred and fiftyEnglishmiles up the country, and falls into the bay not far from the town, on its western side. During eight months of the year this river is full of yachts, and other greater and lesser vessels, either going toNew Yorkor returning from thence, laden either with inland or foreign goods.I cannot make a just estimate of the ships that annually come to this town or sail from it. But I have found by thePensylvaniagazettes that from the first ofDecemberin 1729, to the fifth ofDecemberin the next year, 211 ships entered the port ofNew York, and 222 cleared it; and since that time there has been a great increase of trade here.The country people come to market inNew York, twice a week much in the same manner, as they do atPhiladelphia; with this difference, that the markets are here kept in several places.The governor of the province ofNew York, resides here, and has a palace in the fort. Among those who have been entrusted with this post,William Burnetdeserves[259]to be had in perpetual remembrance. He was one of the sons of Dr.Thomas Burnet(so celebrated on account of his learning) and seemed to have inherited the knowledge of his father. But his great assiduity in promoting the welfare of this province, is what makes the principal merit of his character. The people ofNew Yorktherefore still reckon him the best governor they ever had, and think that they cannot praise his services too much. The many astronomical observations which he made in these parts, are inserted in severalEnglishworks. In the year 1727, at the accession of king George the II. to the throne ofGreat Britain, he was appointed governor ofNew England. In consequence of this he leftNew York, and went toBoston, where he died universally lamented, on the 7th. ofSeptember1729.An assembly of deputies from all the particular districts of the province ofNew York, is held atNew Yorkonce or twice every year. It may be looked upon as a parliament or dyet in miniature. Every thing relating to the good of the province is here debated. The governor calls the assembly, and dissolves it at pleasure: this is a power which he ought only to make use of, either when no farther debates are[260]necessary, or when the members are not so unanimous in the service of their king and country as is their duty: it frequently however happens, that, led aside by caprice or by interested views, he exerts it to the prejudice of the province. The colony has sometimes had a governor, whose quarrels with the inhabitants, have induced their representatives, or the members of the assembly, through a spirit of revenge, to oppose indifferently every thing he proposed, whether it was beneficial to the country or not. In such cases the governor has made use of his power; dissolving the assembly, and calling another soon after, which however he again dissolved upon the least mark of their ill humour. By this means he so much tired them, by the many expences which they were forced to bear in so short a time, that they were at last glad to unite with him, in his endeavours for the good of the province. But there have likewise been governors who have called assemblies and dissolved them soon after, merely because the representatives did not act according to their whims, or would not give their assent to proposals which were perhaps dangerous or hurtful to the common welfare.The king appoints the governor according[261]to his royal pleasure; but the inhabitants of the province make up his excellency’s salary. Therefore a man entrusted with this place has greater or lesser revenues, according as he knows how to gain the confidence of the inhabitants. There are examples of governors in this, and other provinces ofNorth America, who by their dissensions with the inhabitants of their respective governments, have lost their whole salary, his Majesty having no power to make them pay it. If a governor had no other resource in these circumstances, he would be obliged either to resign his office, or to be content with an income too small for his dignity; or else to conform himself in every thing to the inclinations of the inhabitants: but there are several stated profits, which in some measure make up for this. 1. No one is allowed to keep a public house without the governor’s leave; which is only to be obtained by the payment of a certain fee, according to the circumstances of the person. Some governors therefore, when the inhabitants refused to pay them a salary, have hit upon the expedient of doubling the number of inns in their province. 2. Few people who intend to be married, unless they be very poor, will have their banns published from the[262]pulpit; but instead of this they get licences from the governor, which impower any minister to marry them. Now for such a licence the governor receives about half a guinea, and this collected throughout the whole province, amounts to a considerable sum. 3. The governor signs all passports, and especially of such as go to sea; and this gives him another means of supplying his expences. There are several other advantages allowed to him, but as they are very trifling, I shall omit them.At the above assembly the old laws are reviewed and amended, and new ones are made: and the regulation and circulation of coin, together with all other affairs of that kind are there determined. For it is to be observed that eachEnglishcolony inNorth Americais independent of the other, and that each has its proper laws and coin, and may be looked upon in several lights, as a state by itself. From hence it happens, that in time of war, things go on very slowly and irregularly here: for not only the sense of one province is sometimes directly opposite to that of another; but frequently the views of the governor, and those of the assembly of the same province, are quite different: so that it is easy to see, that, while the people are quarrelling about[263]the best and cheapest manner of carrying on the war, an enemy has it in his power to take one place after another. It has commonly happened that whilst some provinces have been suffering from their enemies, the neighbouring ones were quiet and inactive, and as if it did not in the least concern them. They have frequently taken up two or three years in considering whether they should give assistance to an oppressed sister colony, and sometimes they have expresly declared themselves against it. There are instances of provinces who were not only neuter in these circumstances, but who even carried on a great trade with the power which at that very time was attacking and laying waste some other provinces.TheFrenchinCanada, who are but an inconsiderable body, in comparison with theEnglishinAmerica, have by this position of affairs been able to obtain great Advantages in times of war; for if we judge from the number and power of theEnglish, it would seem very easy for them to get the better of theFrenchinAmerica.41[264]

Thegreyandflying Squirrelsare so tamed by the boys, that they sit on their shoulders, and follow them every where.TheTurkey CocksandHensrun about in the woods of this country, and differ in nothing from our tame ones, except in their superior size, and redder, though more palatable flesh. When their eggs are found in the wood, and put under tameTurkeyhens, the young ones become tame; however when they grow up, it sometimes happens that they fly away; their wings are therefore commonly clipped, especially when young. But the tamed turkeys are commonly much more irascible, than those which are naturally tame. The Indians likewise employ themselves in taming them and keeping them near their huts.WildGeesehave likewise been tamed in the following manner. When the wild geese first come hither in spring, and stop a little while (for they do not breed inPensylvania) the people try to shoot them in the wing, which however is generally mere chance. They then row to the place where[210]the wild goose fell, catch it, and keep it for some time at home, by this means many of them have been made so tame, that when they were let out in the morning, they returned in the evening, but to be more sure of them, their wings are commonly clipped. I have seen wild geese of this kind, which the owner assured me, that he had kept for more than twelve years; but though he kept eight of them, yet he never had the pleasure to see them copulate with the tame ones, or lay eggs.Partridges, which are here in abundance, may likewise be so far tamed, as to run about all day with the poultry, and to come along with them to be fed when they are called. In the same manner I have seenwild Pigeons, which were made so tame as to fly out and return again. In some winters there are immense quantities of wild pigeons inPensylvania.Octoberthe 24th. Of all the rare birds ofNorth America, theHumming birdis the most admirable, or at least most worthy of peculiar attention. Several reasons induce me to believe that few parts of the world can produce its equal. Dr.Linnæuscalls itTrochilus Colubris. TheSwedesand someEnglishmencall it theKing’s bird, but the name ofHumming birdis more common.[211]Catesbyin hisNatural History of Carolina, Vol. i. page 65, tab. 65. has drawn it, in its natural size, with its proper colours, and added a description of it.34In size it is not much bigger than a largehumble bee, and is therefore the least of all birds,35or it is much if there is a lesser species in the world. Its plumage is most beautifully coloured, most of its feathers being green, some grey, and others forming a shining red ring round its neck; the tail glows with fine feathers, changing from green into a brass colour. These birds come here in spring about the time when it begins to grow very warm, and make their nests in summer, but towards autumn they retreat again into the more southern countries ofAmerica. They subsist barely upon the nectar, or sweet juice of flowers contained in that part, which botanists call the nectarium, and which they suck up with their long bills. Of all the flowers, they like those most, which have a long tube, and I[212]have observed that they have fluttered chiefly about theImpatiens Noli tangere, and theMonardawith crimson flowers. An inhabitant of the country is sure to have a number of these beautiful and agreeable little birds before his window all the summer long, if he takes care to plant a bed with all sorts of fine flowers under them. It is indeed a diverting spectacle to see these little active creatures flying about the flowers like bees, and sucking their juices with their long and narrow bills. The flowers of the above-mentionedMonardagrowverticillated, that is, at different distances they surround the stalk, as the flowers of our mint (Mentha) bastard hemp (Galeopsis) mother-wort (Leonurus) and dead nettle (Lamium). It is therefore diverting to see them putting their bills into every flower in the circle. As soon as they have sucked the juice of one flower, they flutter to the next. One that has not seen them would hardly believe in how short a space of time they have had their tongues in all the flowers of a plant, which when large and with a long tube, the little bird by putting its head into them, looks as if it crept with half its body into them.During their sucking the juice out of the flowers they never settle on it, but[213]flutter continually like bees, bend their feet backwards, and move their wings so quick, that they are hardly visible. During this fluttering they make a humming like bees, or like that which is occasioned by the turning of a little wheel. After they have thus, without resting, fluttered for a while, they fly to a neighbouring tree or post, and resume their vigour again. They then return to their humming and sucking. They are not very shy, and I in company with several other people, have not been full two yards from the place where they fluttered about and sucked the flowers; and though we spoke and moved, yet they were no ways disturbed; but on going towards them, they would fly off with the swiftness of an arrow. When several of them were on the same bed, there was always a violent combat between them, in meeting each other at the same flower (for envy was likewise predominant amongst these little creatures) and they attacked with such impetuosity, that it would seem as if the strongest would pierce its antagonist through and through, with its long bill. During the fight, they seem to stand in the air, keeping themselves up, by the incredibly swift motion of their wings. When the windows towards the garden are open, they[214]pursue each other into the rooms, fight a little, and flutter away again. Sometimes they come to a flower which is withering, and has no more juice in it; they then in a fit of anger pluck it off, and throw it on the ground, that it may not mislead them for the future. If a garden contains a great number of these little birds, they are seen to pluck off the flowers in such quantities, that the ground is quite covered with them, and it seems as if this proceeded from a motion of envy.Commonly you hear no other sound than their humming, but when they fly against each other in the air, they make a chirping noise like a sparrow or chicken. I have sometimes walked with several other people in small gardens, and these birds have on all sides fluttered about us, without appearing very shy. They are so small that one would easily mistake them for great humming-bees or butterflies, and their flight resembles that of the former, and is incredibly swift. They have never been observed to feed on insects or fruit; the nectar of flowers, seems therefore to be their only food. Several people have caught some humming birds on account of their singular beauty, and have put them into cages, where they died for want of a proper food.[215]However Mr.Bartramhas kept a couple of them for several weeks together, by feeding them with water in which sugar had been dissolved, and I am of opinion that it would not be difficult to keep them all winter in a hot-house.The humming bird always builds its nest in the middle of a branch of a tree, and it is so small, that it cannot be seen from the ground, but he who intends to see it must get up to the branch. For this reason it is looked upon as a great rarity if a nest is accidentally found, especially as the trees in summer have so thick a foliage. The nest is likewise the least of all; that which is in my possession is quite round, and consists in the inside of a brownish and quite soft down, which seems to have been collected from the leaves of the great mullein orVerbascum Thapsus, which are often found covered with a soft wool of this colour, and the plant is plentiful here. The outside of the nest has a coating of green moss, such as is common on old pales or enclosures and on trees; the inner diameter of the nest is hardly a geometrical inch at the top, and its depth half an inch. It is however known that the humming birds make their nests likewise of flax, hemp, moss, hair and other such soft[216]materials; they are said to lay two eggs, each of the size of a pea.Octoberthe 25th. I employed this day and the next in packing up all the seeds gathered this autumn, for I had an opportunity of sending them toEnglandby the ships which sailed about this time. FromEnglandthey were forwarded toSweden.Octoberthe 27th. In the morning I set out on a little journey toNew York, in company with Mr.Peter Cock, with a view to see the country, and to enquire into the safest road, which I could take in going toCanada, through the desart or uninhabited country between it and theEnglishprovinces.That part where we travelled at present was pretty well inhabited on both sides of the road, byEnglishmen,Germansand otherEuropeans. Plains and hills of different dimensions were seen alternately, mountains and stones, I never saw, excepting a few pebbles. Near almost every farm was a great orchard with peach and apple trees, some of which were yet loaded with fruit.The enclosures were in some parts low enough, for the cattle to leap over them with ease; to prevent this the hogs had a triangular wooden yoke: this custom was as I have already observed, common over[217]all theEnglishplantations. To the horses neck was fastened a piece of wood, which at the lower end had a tooth or hook, fastening in the enclosure, and stopping the horse, just when it lifted its fore feet to leap over; but I know not whether this be a good invention with regard to horses. They were likewise kept in bounds by a piece of wood, one end of which was fastened to one of the fore feet, and the other to one of the hind feet, and it forced them to walk pretty slowly, as at the same time it made it impossible for them to leap over the enclosures. To me it appeared that the horses were subject to all sorts of dangerous accidents from this piece of wood.NearNew Frankfurtwe rode over a little stone bridge, and somewhat further, eight or nineEnglishmiles fromPhiladelphiawe passed over another, which was likewise of stone. There are not yet any milestones put up in the country, and the inhabitants only compute the distances by guess. We were afterwards brought over a river in a ferry, where we paid threepence a person, for ourselves and our horses.At one of the places where we stopt to have our horses fed, the people had aMocking-birdin a cage; and it is here reckoned the best singing bird, though its[218]plumage be very simple, and not showy at all. At this time of the year it does not sing.Linnæuscalls itTurdus polyglottos, andCatesbyin hisNatural History of Carolina, Vol. 1. p. 27. tab. 27, has likewise described and drawn this bird. The people said that it built its nests in the bushes and trees, but is so shy, that if any body come and look at its eggs, it leaves the nest, never to come to it again. Its young ones require great care in being bred up. If they are taken from their mother and put into a cage, she feeds them for three or four days; but seeing no hopes of setting them at liberty, she flies away. It then often happens, that the young ones die soon after, doubtless because they cannot accustom themselves to eat what the people give them. But it is generally imagined, that the last time the mother feeds them, she finds means to poison them, in order, the sooner to deliver them from slavery and wretchedness. These birds stay all summer in the colonies, but retire in autumn to the south, and stay away all winter. They have got the name ofMocking-birds, on account of their skill in imitating the note of almost every bird they hear. The song peculiar to them is excellent, and varied by an infinite change of[219]notes and melody; several people are therefore of opinion, that they are the best singing birds in the world. So much is certain, that few birds come up to them; this is what makes them precious: theSwedescall it by the same name as theEnglish.About noon we came toNew Bristol, a small town inPensylvania, on the banks of theDelaware, about fifteenEnglishmilesfromPhiladelphia. Most of the houses are built of stone, and stand asunder. The inhabitants carry on a small trade, though most of them get their goods fromPhiladelphia. On the other side of the river, almost directly opposite toNew Bristol, lies the town ofBurlington, in which the governor ofNew Jerseyresides.We had now country seats on both sides of the roads. Now we came into a lane enclosed with pales on both sides, including pretty great corn-fields. Next followed a wood, and we perceived for the space of fourEnglishmiles nothing but woods, and a very poor soil, on which theLupinus perennisgrew plentifully and succeeded well. I was overjoyed to see a plant come on so well in these poor dry places, and even began to meditate, how to improve this discovery in a soil like that which it inhabited. But I afterwards had the mortification to find that[220]the horses and cows eat almost all the other plants, but left the lupine, which was however very green, looked very fresh, and was extremely soft to the touch. Perhaps means may be found out of making this plant palatable to the cattle. In the evening we arrived atTrenton, after having previously passed theDelawarein a ferry.Octoberthe 28th.Trentonis a long narrow town, situate at some distance from the riverDelaware, on a sandy plain; it belongs toNew Jersey, and they reckon it thirty miles fromPhiladelphia. It has two small churches, one for the people belonging to the church ofEngland, the other for the presbyterians. The houses are partly built of stone, though most of them are made of wood or planks, commonly two stories high, together with a cellar below the building, and a kitchen under ground, close to the cellar. The houses stand at a moderate distance from one another. They are commonly built so, that the street passes along one side of the houses, while gardens of different dimensions bound the other side; in each garden is a draw-well; the place is reckoned very healthy. Our landlord told us, that twenty-two years ago, when he first settled here, there was hardly more than one house; but from that[221]timeTrentonhas encreased so much, that there are at present near a hundred houses. The houses were within divided into several rooms by their partitions of boards. The inhabitants of the place carried on a small trade with the goods which they got fromPhiladelphia, but their chief gain consisted in the arrival of the numerous travellers between that city andNew York; for they are commonly brought by theTrentonYachts fromPhiladelphiatoTrenton, or from thence toPhiladelphia. But fromTrentonfurther toNew Brunswick, the travellers go in the waggons which set out every day for that place. Several of the inhabitants however likewise subsist on the carriage for all sorts of goods, which are every day sent in great quantities, either fromPhiladelphiatoNew York, or from thence to the former place; for betweenPhiladelphiaandTrentonall goods go by water, but betweenTrentonandNew Brunswickthey are all carried by land, and both these conveniences belong to people of this town.For the yachts which go between this place and the capital ofPensylvania, they usually pay a shilling and six-pence ofPensylvaniacurrency per person, and every one pays besides for his baggage. Every passenger[222]must provide meat and drink for himself, or pay some settled fare: betweenTrentonandNew Brunswicka person pays two shillings and sixpence, and the baggage is likewise paid for separately.We continued our journey in the morning; the country through which we passed was for the greatest part level, though sometimes there were some long hills, some parts were covered with trees, but far the greater part of the country was without woods; on the other hand I never saw any place inAmerica, the towns excepted, so well peopled. An old man, who lived in this neighbourhood and accompanied us for some part of the road, however assured me, that he could well remember the time, when betweenTrentonandNew Brunswickthere were not above three farms, and he reckoned it was about fifty and some odd years ago. During the greater part of the day we had very extensive corn-fields on both sides of the road, and commonly towards the south the country had a great declivity. Near almost every farm was a spacious orchard full of peaches and apple trees, and in some of them the fruit was fallen from the trees in such quantities, as to cover nearly the whole surface. Part of it they left to rot, since they could not take it all in[223]and consume it. Wherever we passed by we were always welcome to go into the fine orchards, and gather our hats and pockets full of the choicest fruit, without the possessor’s so much as looking after it. Cherry trees were planted near the farms, on the roads, &c.Thebarns36had a peculiar kind of construction hereabouts, which I will give a concise description of. The whole building was very great, so as almost to equal a small church; the roof was pretty high, covered with wooden shingles, declining on both sides, but not steep: the walls which support it, were not much higher than a full grown man; but on the other hand the breadth of the building was the more considerable: in the middle was the threshing floor, and above it, or in the loft or garret they put the corn which was not yet threshed, the straw, or any thing else, according to the season: on one side were stables for the horses, and on the other for the cows. And the small cattle had likewise their particular stables or styes; on both ends of the buildings were great gates,[224]so that one could come in with a cart and horses through one of them, and go out at the other: here was therefore under one roof the threshing floor, the barn, the stables, the hay loft, the coach house, &c. This kind of buildings is chiefly made use of by theDutchandGermans; for it is to be observed that the country betweenTrentonandNew York, is inhabited by fewEnglishmen, but instead of them byGermansorDutch,37the latter of which especially are numerous.Before I proceed, I find it necessary to remark one thing with regard to the Indians, or oldAmericans. For this account may perhaps meet with readers, who, like many people of my acquaintance, may be of opinion that allNorth America, was almost wholly inhabited by savage or heathen nations, and they may be astonished, that I do not mention them more frequently in my account. Others may perhaps imagine, that when I mention in my journal, that the country is much cultivated, that in several places, houses of stone or wood are built, round which are corn-fields, gardens,[225]and orchards, that I am speaking of the property of theIndians; to undeceive them, I here give the following explication. The country especially all along the coasts, in theEnglishcolonies, is inhabited byEuropeans, who in some places are already so numerous, that few parts ofEuropeare more populous. TheIndianshave sold the country to theEuropeans, and have retired further up: in most parts you may travel twentySwedishmiles, or about a hundred and twentyEnglishmiles, from the sea shore, before you reach the first habitations of theIndians. And it is very possible for a person to have been atPhiladelphiaand other towns on the sea shore for half a year together, without so much as seeing anIndian. I intend in the sequel to give a more circumstantial account of them, their religion, manners, oeconomy, and other particulars relating to them: at present I return to the sequel of my journal.About nine English miles fromTrenton, the ground began to change its colour; hitherto it consisted of a considerable quantity of hazel coloured clay, but at present the earth was a reddish brown, so that it sometimes had a purple colour, and sometimes looked like logwood. This colour came from a red limestone which approached[226]very near to that which is on the mountainKinnekulleinWest Gothland, and makes a particular stratum in the rock. TheAmericanredlimestonetherefore seems to be merely a variety of that I saw inSweden, it lay in strata of two or three fingers thickness; but was divisible into many thinner plates or shivers, whose surface was seldom flat and smooth, but commonly rough: the strata themselves were frequently cut off by horizontal cracks. When these stones were exposed to the air, they by degrees shivered and withered into pieces, and at last turned into dust. The people of this neighbourhood did not know how to make any use of it; the soil above is sometimes rich and sometimes poor: in such places where the people had lately dug new wells, I perceived, that most of the rubbish which was thrown up consisted of such a species of stone. This reddish brown earth we always saw till nearNew Brunswick, where it is particularly plentiful. The banks of the river, shewed in many places nothing but strata ofLimestone, which did not run horizontally, but dipped very much.About ten o’clock in the morning we came toPrince-town, which is situated in a plain. Most of the houses are built of wood, and are not contiguous, so that there[227]are gardens and pastures between them. As these parts were sooner inhabited byEuropeansthanPensylvania, the woods were likewise more cut away, and the country more cultivated, so that one might have imagined himself to be inEurope.We now thought of continuing our journey, but as it began to rain very heavily, and continued so during the whole day and part of the night, we were forced to stay till next morning,Octoberthe 29th. This morning we proceeded on our journey. The country was pretty well peopled; however there were yet great woods in many places: they all consisted of deciduous trees: and I did not perceive a single tree of the fir kind, till I came toNew Brunswick. The ground was level, and did not seem to be every where of the richest kind. In some places it had hillocks, losing themselves almost imperceptibly in the plains, which were commonly crossed by a rivulet. Almost near every farm-house were great orchards. The houses were commonly built of timber, and at some distance by themselves stood the ovens for baking, consisting commonly of clay.On a hill covered with trees, and calledRockhill, I saw several pieces of stone or[228]rock, so big, that they would have required three men to roll them down. But besides these there were few great stories in the country; for most of those which we saw, could easily be lifted up by a single man. In another place we perceived a number of little round pebbles, but we did not meet with either mountains or rocks.About noon we arrived atNew Brunswick, a pretty little town in the province ofNew Jersey, in a valley on the west side of the riverRareton; on account of its low situation, it cannot be seen (coming fromPensylvania) before you get to the top of the hill, which is quite close up to it: the town extends north and south along the river. TheGermaninhabitants have two churches, one of stone and the other of wood; theEnglishchurch is of the latter kind, but the presbyterians were building one of stone: the town house makes likewise a pretty good appearance. Some of the other houses are built of bricks, but most of them are made either wholly of wood, or of bricks and wood; the wooden houses are not made of strong timber, but merely of boards or planks, which are within joined by laths: such houses as consist of both wood and bricks, have only the wall towards the street of bricks, all the other sides being merely of planks. This[229]peculiar kind of ostentation would easily lead a traveller, who passes through the town in haste, to believe that most of the houses are built of bricks. The houses were covered with shingles; before each door there was an elevation, to which you ascend by some steps from the street; it resembled a small balcony, and had some benches on both sides, on which the people sat in the evening, in order to enjoy the fresh air, and to have the pleasure of viewing those who passed by. The town has only one street lengthways, and at its northern extremity there is a street across; both of these are of a considerable length.The riverRaretonpasses hard by the town, and is deep enough for great yachts to come up; its breadth near the town is within the reach of a common gun shot; the tide comes up several miles beyond the town, the yachts were placed lengthways along the bridge; the river has very high and pretty steep banks on both sides, but near the town there are no such banks, it being situated in a low valley. One of the streets is almost entirely inhabited byDutchmen, who came hither fromAlbany, and for that reason they call itAlbany street: theseDutchpeople only keep company among themselves, and seldom or never go amongst the other inhabitants, living as it were[230]quite separate from them.New Brunswickbelongs toNew Jersey; however the greatest part, or rather all its trade is toNew York, which is about forty English miles distant; to that place they send corn, flour in great quantities, bread, several other necessaries, a great quantity of linseed, boards timber, wooden vessels, and all sorts of carpenters work. Several small yachts are every day going backwards and forwards between these two towns. The inhabitants likewise get a considerable profit from the travellers, who every hour pass through, on the high road.The steep banks consist of the red limestone, which I have before described. It is here plainly visible that the strata are not horizontal, but considerably dipping, especially towards the south. The weather and the air has in a great measure dissolved the stone here: I enquired, whether it could not be made use of, but was assured, that in building houses it was entirely useless; for, though it is hard and permanent under ground, yet on being dug out, and exposed for some time to the air, it first crumbles into greater, then into lesser pieces, and at last is converted into dust. An inhabitant of this town, however tried to build a house with this sort of stone, but[231]its outsides being exposed to the air, soon began to change so much, that the owner was obliged to put boards all over the wall, to preserve it from falling to pieces. The people however pretend that this stone is a very good manure, if it is scattered upon the corn-fields in its rubbish state, for it is said to stifle the weeds: it is therefore made use of both on the fields and in gardens.38Towards the evening we continued our journey, and were ferried over the riverRareton, together with our horses. In a very dry summer, and when the tide has ebbed, it is by no means dangerous to ride through this river. On the opposite shore the red juniper tree was pretty abundant. The country through which we now passed was pretty well inhabited, but in most places full of small pebbles.We sawGuinea Hensin many places where we passed by. They sometimes run about the fields, at a good distance from the farm-houses.About eight English miles fromNew Brunswick, the road divided. We took that on the left, for that on the right leads[232]toAmboy, the chief sea-town inNew Jersey. The country now made a charming appearance; some parts being high, others forming vallies, and all of them well cultivated. From the hills you had a prospect of houses, farms, gardens, corn-fields, forests, lakes, islands, roads, and pastures.In most of the places where we travelled this day the colour of the ground was reddish. I make no doubt, but there were strata of the before-mentioned red limestone under it. Sometimes the ground looked very like a cinnabar ore.Wood-bridgeis a small village in a plain, consisting of a few houses: we stopped here to rest our horses a little. The houses were most of them built of boards; the walls had a covering of shingles on the outside; these shingles were round at one end, and all of a length in each row: some of the houses had an Italian roof, but the greatest part had roofs with pediments; most of them were covered with shingles. In most places we met with wells and buckets to draw up the water.Elizabeth-townis a small town, about twenty English miles distant fromNew Brunswick: we arrived there immediately after sun setting. Its houses are mostly scattered, but well built, and generally[233]of boards, with a roof of shingles, and walls covered with the same. There were likewise some stone buildings. A little rivulet passes through the town from west to east; it is almost reduced to nothing when the water ebbs away, but with the full tide they can bring up small yachts. Here were two fine churches, each of which made a much better appearance than any one inPhiladelphia. That belonging to the people of the church ofEnglandwas built of bricks, had a steeple with bells, and a balustrade round it, from which there was a prospect of the country. The meeting house of the presbyterians was built of wood, but had both a steeple and bells, and was, like the other houses covered with shingles. The town house made likewise a good appearance, and had a spire with a bell. The banks of the river were red, from the reddish limestone; both in and about the town were many gardens and orchards, and it might truly be said thatElizabeth-townwas situated in a garden; the ground hereabouts being even and well cultivated.The geese, in some of the places by which we passed this day and the next, carried three or four little sticks, of the length of a foot about their necks; they[234]were fastened crossways, to prevent them from creeping through half broken enclosures. They look extremely awkward, and it is very diverting to see them in this attire.At night we took up our lodgings atElizabeth-town Point, an inn about twoEnglishmiles distant from the town, and the last house on this road belonging toNew Jersey. The man who had taken the lease of it, together with that of the ferry near it, told us that he paid a hundred and ten pounds ofPensylvaniacurrency to the owner.Octoberthe 30th. We were ready to proceed on our journey at sun-rising. Near the inn where we had passed the night, we were to cross a river, and we were brought over, together with our horses, in a wretched half rotten ferry. This river came a considerable way out of the country, and small vessels could easily sail up it. This was a great advantage to the inhabitants of the neighbouring country, giving them an opportunity of sending their goods toNew Yorkwith great ease; and they even made use of it for trading to theWest Indies. The country was low on both sides of the river, and consisted of meadows. But there was no other hay to be got, than such as commonly[235]grows in swampy grounds; for as the tide comes up in this river, these low plains were sometimes overflowed when the water was high. The people hereabouts are said to be troubled in summer with immense swarms of gnats or musquetoes, which sting them and their cattle. This was ascribed to the low swampy meadows, on which these insects deposite their eggs, which are afterwards hatched by the heat.As soon as we had got over the river, we were uponStaten Island, which is quite surrounded with salt water. This is the beginning of the province ofNew York. Most of the people settled here wereDutchmen, or such as came hither whilst theDutchwere yet in possession of this place. But at present they were scattered among theEnglishand otherEuropeaninhabitants, and spokeEnglishfor the greatest part. The prospect of the country here is extremely pleasing, as it is not so much intercepted by woods, but offers more cultivated fields to view. Hills and vallies still continued, as usual, to change alternately.The farms were near each other. Most of the houses were wooden; however some were built of stone. Near every farm-house was an orchard with apple trees: the fruit was already for the greatest part gathered.[236]Here, and on the whole journey before, I observed a press for cyder at every farm-house, made in different manners, by which the people had already pressed the juice out of the apples, or were just busied with that work. Some people made use of a wheel made of thick oak planks, which turned upon a wooden axis by means of a horse drawing it, much in the same manner as the people do with woad;39except that here the wheel runs upon planks. Cherry trees stood along the enclosures round corn-fields.The corn-fields were excellently situated, and either sown with wheat or rye. They had no ditches on their sides, but (as is usual inEngland) only furrows, drawn at greater or lesser distances from each other.In one place we observed a water mill, so situated, that when the tide flowed, the water ran into a pond: but when it ebbed, the floodgate was drawn up, and the mill driven by the water, flowing out of the pond.About eight o’clock in the morning we arrived at the place where we were to cross[237]the water, in order to come to the town ofNew York. We left our horses here and went on board the yacht: we were to go eightEnglishmiles by sea; however we landed about eleven o’clock in the morning atNew York. We saw a kind of wild ducks in immense quantities upon the water: the people called themBlue bills, and they seemed to be the same with ourPintail ducks, orLinnæus’sAnas acuta: but they were very shy. On the shore of the continent we saw some very fine sloping corn-fields, which at present looked quite green, the corn being already come up. We saw many boats in which the fishermen were busy catching oysters: to this purpose they make use of a kind of rakes with long iron teeth bent inwards; these they used either singly or two tied together in such a manner, that the teeth were turned towards each other.Octoberthe 31st. AboutNew Yorkthey find innumerable quantities of excellent oysters, and there are few places which have oysters of such an exquisite taste, and of so great a size: they are pickled and sent to theWest Indiesand other places; which is done in the following manner. As soon as the oysters are caught, their shells are opened, and the fish washed clean;[238]some water is then poured into a pot, the oysters are put into it, and they must boil for a while; the pot is then taken off from the fire again, the oysters taken out and put upon a dish, till they are somewhat dry: then you take some mace, allspice, black pepper, and as much vinegar as you think is sufficient to give a sourish taste. All this is mixed with half the liquor in which the oysters were boiled, and put over the fire again. While you boil it great care is to be taken in scumming off the thick scum; at last the whole pickle is poured into a glass or earthen vessel, the oysters are put to it, and the vessel is well stopped to keep out the air. In this manner, oysters will keep for years together, and may be sent to the most distant parts of the world.The merchants here buy up great quantities of oysters about this time, pickle them in the above-mentioned manner, and send them to theWest Indies: by which they frequently make a considerable profit: for, the oysters, which cost them five shillings of their currency, they commonly sell for a pistole, or about six times as much as they gave for them; and sometimes they get even more: the oysters which are thus pickled have a very fine flavour. The following is another way of preserving oysters:[239]they are taken out of the shells, fried with butter, put into a glass or earthen vessel with the melted butter over them, so that they are quite covered with it, and no air can get to them. Oysters prepared in this manner have likewise an agreeable taste, and are exported to theWest Indiesand other parts.Oystersare here reckoned very wholesome, some people assured us, that they had not felt the least inconvenience, after eating a considerable quantity of them. It is likewise a common rule here that oysters are best in those months which have anrin their name, such asSeptember,October, &c; but that they are not so good in other months; however there are poor people, who live all the year long upon nothing but oysters with bread.The sea nearNew York, affords annually the greatest quantity of oysters. They are found chiefly in a muddy ground, where they lie in the slime, and are not so frequent in a sandy bottom: a rockey and a stony bottom is seldom found here. The oyster shells are gathered in great heaps, and burnt into a lime, which by some people is made use of in building houses, but is not reckoned so good as that made of limestone. On our journey toNew York, we[240]saw high heaps of oyster shells near the farm-houses, upon the sea shore; and aboutNew York, we observed the people had carried them upon the fields which were sown with wheat. However they were entire, and not crushed.TheIndianswho inhabited the coast before the arrival of theEuropeans, have made oysters and other shell fish their chief food; and at present whenever they come to a salt water where oysters are to be got, they are very active in catching them, and sell them in great quantities to otherIndianswho live higher up the country: for this reason you see immense numbers of oyster and muscle shells piled up near such places, where you are certain that theIndiansformerly built their huts. This circumstance ought to make us cautious in maintaining, that in all places on the sea shore, or higher up in the country, where such heaps of shells are to be met with, the latter have lain there ever since the time that those places were overflowed by the sea.Lobstersare likewise plentyfully caught hereabouts, pickled much in the same way as oysters, and sent to several places. I was told of a very remarkable circumstance about these lobsters, and I have afterwards frequently heard it mentioned. The coast[241]ofNew Yorkhad alreadyEuropeaninhabitants for a considerable time, yet no lobsters were to be met with on that coast; and though the people fished ever so often, they could never find any signs of lobsters being in this part of the sea: they were therefore continually brought in great wellboats fromNew England, where they are plentiful; but it happened that one of these wellboats broke in pieces nearHellgate, about tenEnglishmiles fromNew York, and all the lobsters in it got off. Since that time they have so multiplied in this part of the sea, that they are now caught in the greatest abundance.Novemberthe 1st. A kind of cold fever, which theEnglishin this country callFever and Ague, is very common in several parts of theEnglishcolonies. There are however other parts, where the people have never felt it. I will in the sequel describe the symptoms of this disease at large. Several of the most considerable inhabitants of this town, assured me that this disease was not near so common inNew York, as it is inPensylvania, where ten were seized by it, to one in the former province; therefore they were of opinion, that this disease was occasioned by the vapours arising from stagnant fresh water, from[242]marshes, and from rivers; for which reason those provinces situated on the sea shore, could not be so much affected by it. However the carelesness with which people eat quantities of melons, watermelons, peaches, and other juicy fruit in summer, was reckoned to contribute much towards the progress of this fever; and repeated examples confirmed the truth of this opinion. The jesuit’s bark was reckoned a good remedy against it. It has however often been found to have operated contrary to expectation, though I am ignorant whether it was adulterated, or whether some mistake had been committed in the manner of taking it. Mr.Davis van Horne, a merchant, told me that he cured himself and several other people of this fever, by the leaves of the commonGarden Sage, orSalvia officinalisofLinnæus. The leaves are crushed or pounded in a mortar, and the juice is pressed out of them; this is continued till they get a spoonful of the liquid, which is mixed with lemon juice. This draught is taken about the time that the cold fit comes on; and after taking it three or four times, the fever does not come again.The bark of the white oak was reckoned the best remedy which had as yet been found against the dysentery. It is reduced to a[243]powder, and then taken: some people assured me that in cases where nothing would help, this remedy had given a certain and speedy relief. The people in this place likewise make use of this bark (as is usually done in theEnglishcolonies) to dye wool a brown colour, which looks like that of bohea tea, and does not fade by being exposed to the sun. Among the numerous shells which are found on the sea shore, there are some which by theEnglishhere are calledClams, and which bear some resemblance to the human ear. They have a considerable thickness, and are chiefly white, excepting the pointed end, which both without and within has a blue colour, between purple and violet. They are met with in vast numbers on the sea shore ofNew York,Long Island, and other places. The shells contain a large animal, which is eaten both by theIndiansandEuropeanssettled here.A considerable commerce is carried on in this article, with such Indians as live further up the country. When these people inhabited the coast, they were able to catch their own clams, which at that time made a great part of their food; but at present this is the business of theDutchandEnglish, who live inLong Islandand other[244]maritime provinces. As soon as the shells are caught, the fish is taken out of them, drawn upon a wire, and hung up in the open air, in order to dry by the heat of the sun. When this is done, the fish is put into proper vessels, and carried toAlbanyupon the riverHudson; there the Indians buy them, and reckon them one of their best dishes. Besides theEuropeans, many of the native Indians come annually down to the sea shore, in order to catch clams, proceeding with them afterwards in the manner I have just described.The shells of these clams are used by the Indians as money, and make what they call their wampum; they likewise serve their women for an ornament, when they intend to appear in full dress. These wampums are properly made of the purple parts of the shells, which the Indians value more than the white parts. A traveller, who goes to trade with the Indians, and is well stocked with them, may become a considerable gainer; but if he take gold coin, or bullion, he will undoubtedly be a loser; for the Indians who live farther up the country, put little or no value upon these metals which we reckon so precious, as I have frequently observed in the course of my travels. The Indians formerly made[245]their own wampums, though not without a deal of trouble: but at present theEuropeansemploy themselves that way; especially the inhabitants ofAlbany, who get a considerable profit by it. In the sequel I intend to relate the manner of making the wampum.Novemberthe 2d. Besides the different sects of christians, there are many Jews settled inNew York, who possess great privileges. They have a synagogue and houses, and great country seats of their own property, and are allowed to keep shops in town. They have likewise several ships, which they freight and send out with their own goods. In fine they enjoy all the privileges common to the other inhabitants of this town and province.During my residence atNew York, this time and in the two next years, I was frequently in company with Jews. I was informed among other things, that these people never boiled any meat for themselves on saturday, but that they always did it the day before; and that in winter they kept a fire during the whole saturday. They commonly eat no pork; yet I have been told by several men of credit, that many of them (especially among the young Jews) when travelling, did not not make the least difficulty[246]about eating this, or any other meat that was put before them; even though they were in company with christians. I was in their synagogue last evening for the first time, and this day at noon I visited it again, and each time I was put into a particular seat which was set apart for strangers or christians. A youngRabbiread the divine service, which was partly in Hebrew, and partly in the Rabinical dialect. Both men and women were dressed entirely in theEnglishfashion; the former had all of them their hats on, and did not once take them off during service. The galleries, I observed, were appropriated to the ladies, while the men sat below. During prayers the men spread a white cloth over their heads; which perhaps is to represent sack cloth. But I observed that the wealthier sort of people had a much richer cloth than the poorer ones. Many of the men had Hebrew books, in which they sang and read alternately. TheRabbistood in the middle of the synagogue, and read with his face turned towards the east; he spoke however so fast, as to make it almost impossible for any one to understand what he said.40[247]New York, the capital of a province of the same name is situated under forty deg. and forty min. north lat. and forty seven deg. and four min. of western long. fromLondon; and is about ninety sevenEnglishmiles distant fromPhiladelphia. The situation of it is extremely advantageous for trade: for the town stands upon a point which is formed by two bays; into one of which the riverHudsondischarges itself, not far from the town;New Yorkis therefore on three sides surrounded with water;the ground it is built on, is level in some parts, and hilly in others: the place is generally reckoned very wholesome.The town was first founded by theDutch: this, it is said, was done in the year 1623, when they were yet masters of the country: they called itNew Amsterdam, and the country itselfNew Holland. TheEnglish, towards the end of the year 1664, taking possession of it under the conduct ofDes Cartes, and keeping it by the virtue of the next treaty of peace, gave the name ofNew Yorkto both the town, and the province belonging to it: in size it comes nearest toBostonandPhiladelphia. But with regard to its fine buildings, its opulence, and extensive commerce, it disputes the preference with[248]them: at present it is about half as big again asGothenburghinSweden.The streets do not run so straight as those ofPhiladelphia, and have sometimes considerable bendings: however they are very spacious and well built, and most of them are paved, except in high places, where it has been found useless. In the chief streets there are trees planted, which in summer give them a fine appearance, and during the excessive heat at that time, afford a cooling shade: I found it extremely pleasant to walk in the town, for it seemed quite like a garden: the trees which are planted for this purpose are chiefly of two kinds. TheWater beech, orLinnæus’sPlatanus occidentalis, are the most numerous, and give an agreeable shade in summer, by their great and numerous leaves. TheLocust tree, orLinnæus’sRobinia Pseud-Acaciais likewise frequent: its fine leaves, and the odoriferous scent which exhales from its flowers, make it very proper for being planted in the streets near the houses, and in gardens. There are likewise lime trees and elms, in these walks, but they are not by far so frequent as the others: one seldom met with trees of the same sort next to each other, they being in general planted alternately.[249]Besides numbers of birds of all kinds which make these trees their abode, there are likewise a kind of frogs which frequent them in great numbers in summer, they are Dr.Linnæus’sRana arborea, and especially theAmericanvariety of this animal. They are very clamorous in the evening and in the nights (especially when the days had been hot, and a rain was expected) and in a manner drown the singing of the birds. They frequently make such a noise, that it is difficult for a person to make himself heard.Most of the houses are built of bricks; and are generally strong and neat, and several stories high. Some had, according to old architecture, turned the gable-end towards the streets; but the new houses were altered in this respect. Many of the houses had a balcony on the roof, on which the people used to sit in the evenings in the summer season; and from thence they had a pleasant view of a great part of the town, and likewise of part of the adjacent water and of the opposite shore. The roofs are commonly covered with tiles or shingles: the latter of which are made of the white firtree, orPinus Strobus(Linn.sp. plant. page 1419.) which grows higher up in the country. The inhabitants are of opinion[250]that a roof made of these shingles is as durable as one made inPensylvaniaof theWhite Cedar, orCupressus thyoides(Linn.spec. plant, page 1422.) The walls were whitewashed within, and I did not any where see hangings, with which the people in this country seem in general to be but little acquainted. The walls were quite covered with all sorts of drawings and pictures in small frames. On each side of the chimnies they had usually a sort of alcove; and the wall under the windows was wainscoted, and had benches placed near it. The alcoves, and all the wood work were painted with a bluish grey colour.There are several churches in the town, which deserve some attention. 1.The English Church, built in the year 1695, at the west end of town, consisting of stone, and has a steeple with a bell. 2.The new Dutch Church, which is likewise built of stone, is pretty large and is provided with a steeple, it also has a clock, which is the only one in the town. This church stands almost due from north to south. No particular point of the compass has here been in general attended to in erecting sacred buildings. Some churches, stand as is usual from east to west, others from south to north, and others in different[251]positions. In thisDutchchurch, there is neither altar, vestry, choir, sconces, nor paintings. Some trees are planted round it, which make it look as if it was built in a wood. 3.The old Dutch church, which is also built of stone. It is not so large as the new one. It was painted in the inside, though without any images, and adorned with a small organ, of which governorBurnetmade them a present. The men for the most part sit in the gallery, and the women below. 4.The Presbyterian Church, which is pretty large, and was built but lately. It is of stone, and has a steeple and a bell in it. 5.The German Lutheran Church.6.The German Reformed Church.7.The French Church, for protestant refugees. 8.The Quaker’s Meeting house.9. To these may be added theJewish Synagogue, which I mentioned before.Towards the sea, on the extremity of the promontory is a pretty good fortress, calledFort George, which entirely commands the port, and can defend the town, at least from a sudden attack on the sea side. Besides that, it is likewise secured on the north or towards the shore, by a pallisade, which however (as for a considerable time the people have had nothing to fear[252]from an enemy) is in many places in a very bad state of defence.There is no good water to be met with in the town itself, but at a little distance there is a large spring of good water, which the inhabitants take for their tea, and for the uses of the kitchen. Those however, who are less delicate in this point, make use of the water from the wells in town, though it be very bad. This want of good water lies heavy upon the horses of the strangers that come to this place; for they do not like to drink the water from the wells in the town.Theportis a good one: ships of the greatest burthen can lie in it, quite close up to the bridge: but its water is very salt, as the sea continually comes in upon it; and therefore is never frozen, except in extraordinary cold weather. This is of great advantage to the city and its commerce; for many ships either come in or go out of the port at any time of the year; unless the winds be contrary; a convenience, which as I have before observed, is wanting atPhiladelphia. It is secured from all violent hurricanes from the south-east byLong Islandwhich is situated just before the town: therefore only the storms from thesouth-westare dangerous to the ships which ride at[253]anchor here, because the port is open only on that side. The entrance however has its faults: one of them is, that no men of war can pass through it; for though the water is pretty deep, yet it is not sufficiently so for great ships. Sometimes even merchant ships of a large size have by the rolling of the waves and by sinking down between them, slightly touched the bottom, though without any bad consequences. Besides this, the canal is narrow; and for this reason many ships have been lost here, because they may be easily cast upon a sand, if the ship is not well piloted. Some old people, who had constantly been upon this canal, assured me, that it was neither deeper, nor shallower at present, than in their youth.The common difference between high and low water atNew York, amounts to about six feet,Englishmeasure. But at a certain time in every month, when the tide flows more than commonly, the difference in the height of the water is seven feet.New Yorkprobably carries on a more extensive commerce, than any town in theEnglishNorth American provinces; at least it may be said to equal them:BostonandPhiladelphiahowever come very near up to it. The trade ofNew Yorkextends to[254]many places, and it is said they send more ships from thence toLondon, than they do fromPhiladelphia. They export to that capital all the various sorts of skins which they buy of the Indians, sugar, logwood, and other dying woods, rum, mahogany, and many other goods which are the produce of theWest Indies; together with all the specie which they get in the course of trade. Every year they build several ships here, which are sent toLondon, and there sold; and of late years they have shipped a quantity of iron toEngland. In return for these, they import fromLondonstuffs and every other article ofEnglishgrowth or manufacture, together with all sorts of foreign goods.England, and especiallyLondon, profits immensely by its trade with theAmericancolonies; for not onlyNew York, but likewise all the otherEnglishtowns on the continent, import so many articles fromEngland, that all their specie, together with the goods which they get in other countries, must altogether go toOld England, in order to pay the amount, to which they are however insufficient. From hence it appears how much a well regulated colony contributes to the increase and welfare of its mother country.New Yorksends many ships to theWest[255]Indies, with flour, corn, biscuit, timber, tuns, boards, flesh, fish, butter, and other provisions; together with some of the few fruits that grow here. Many ships go toBostoninNew England, with corn and flour, and take in exchange, flesh, butter, timber, different sorts of fish, and other articles, which they carry further to theWest Indies. They now and then take rum from thence, which is distilled there in great quantities, and sell it here with a considerable advantage. Sometimes they send yachts with goods fromNew YorktoPhiladelphia, and at other times yachts are sent fromPhiladelphiatoNew York; which is only done, as appears from the gazettes, because certain articles are cheaper at one place than at the other. They send ships toIrelandevery year, laden with all kinds ofWest Indiagoods; but especially with linseed, which is reaped in this province. I have been assured, that in some years no less than ten ships have been sent toIreland, laden with nothing but linseed; because it is said the flax inIrelanddoes not afford good seed. But probably the true reason is this: the people ofIreland, in order to have the better flax, make use of the plant before the seed is ripe, and therefore are obliged to send for foreign seed; and hence[256]it becomes one of the chief articles in trade.At this time a bushel of linseed is sold for eight shillings ofNew Yorkcurrency, or exactly a piece of eight.The goods which are shipped to theWest Indies, are sometimes paid for with ready money, and sometimes withWest Indiagoods, which are either first brought toNew York, or immediately sent toEnglandorHolland. If a ship does not chuse to take inWest Indiagoods in its return toNew York, or if no body will freight it, it often goes toNewcastleinEnglandto take in coals for ballast, which when brought home sell for a pretty good price. In many parts of the town coals are made use of, both for kitchen fires, and in rooms, because they are reckoned cheaper than wood, which at present costs thirty Shillings ofNew Yorkcurrency per fathom; of which measure I have before made mention.New Yorkhas likewise some intercourse withSouth Carolina; to which it sends corn, flour, sugar, rum, and other goods, and takes rice in return, which is almost the only commodity exported fromSouth Carolina.The goods with which the province ofNew Yorktrades are not very numerous. They chiefly export the skins of animals,[257]which are bought of the Indians aboutOswego; great quantities of boards, coming for the most part fromAlbany; timber and ready made lumber, from that part of the country which lies about the riverHudson; and lastly wheat, flour, barley, oats and other kinds of corn, which are brought fromNew Jerseyand the cultivated parts of this province. I have seen yachts fromNew Brunswick, laden with wheat which lay loose on board, and with flour packed up into tuns; and also with great quantities of linseed.New Yorklikewise exports some flesh and other provisions out of its own province, but they are very few; nor is the quantity of pease which the people aboutAlbanybring much greater. Iron however may be had more plentifully, as it is found in several parts of this province, and is of a considerable goodness; but all the other products of this country are of little account.Most of the wine, which is drank here and in the other colonies is brought from the Isle ofMadeiraand is very strong and fiery.No manufactures of note have as yet been established here; at present they get all manufactured goods, such as woollen[258]and linen cloth, &c. fromEngland, and especially fromLondon.The riverHudsonis very convenient for the commerce of this city; as it is navigable for near a hundred and fiftyEnglishmiles up the country, and falls into the bay not far from the town, on its western side. During eight months of the year this river is full of yachts, and other greater and lesser vessels, either going toNew Yorkor returning from thence, laden either with inland or foreign goods.I cannot make a just estimate of the ships that annually come to this town or sail from it. But I have found by thePensylvaniagazettes that from the first ofDecemberin 1729, to the fifth ofDecemberin the next year, 211 ships entered the port ofNew York, and 222 cleared it; and since that time there has been a great increase of trade here.The country people come to market inNew York, twice a week much in the same manner, as they do atPhiladelphia; with this difference, that the markets are here kept in several places.The governor of the province ofNew York, resides here, and has a palace in the fort. Among those who have been entrusted with this post,William Burnetdeserves[259]to be had in perpetual remembrance. He was one of the sons of Dr.Thomas Burnet(so celebrated on account of his learning) and seemed to have inherited the knowledge of his father. But his great assiduity in promoting the welfare of this province, is what makes the principal merit of his character. The people ofNew Yorktherefore still reckon him the best governor they ever had, and think that they cannot praise his services too much. The many astronomical observations which he made in these parts, are inserted in severalEnglishworks. In the year 1727, at the accession of king George the II. to the throne ofGreat Britain, he was appointed governor ofNew England. In consequence of this he leftNew York, and went toBoston, where he died universally lamented, on the 7th. ofSeptember1729.An assembly of deputies from all the particular districts of the province ofNew York, is held atNew Yorkonce or twice every year. It may be looked upon as a parliament or dyet in miniature. Every thing relating to the good of the province is here debated. The governor calls the assembly, and dissolves it at pleasure: this is a power which he ought only to make use of, either when no farther debates are[260]necessary, or when the members are not so unanimous in the service of their king and country as is their duty: it frequently however happens, that, led aside by caprice or by interested views, he exerts it to the prejudice of the province. The colony has sometimes had a governor, whose quarrels with the inhabitants, have induced their representatives, or the members of the assembly, through a spirit of revenge, to oppose indifferently every thing he proposed, whether it was beneficial to the country or not. In such cases the governor has made use of his power; dissolving the assembly, and calling another soon after, which however he again dissolved upon the least mark of their ill humour. By this means he so much tired them, by the many expences which they were forced to bear in so short a time, that they were at last glad to unite with him, in his endeavours for the good of the province. But there have likewise been governors who have called assemblies and dissolved them soon after, merely because the representatives did not act according to their whims, or would not give their assent to proposals which were perhaps dangerous or hurtful to the common welfare.The king appoints the governor according[261]to his royal pleasure; but the inhabitants of the province make up his excellency’s salary. Therefore a man entrusted with this place has greater or lesser revenues, according as he knows how to gain the confidence of the inhabitants. There are examples of governors in this, and other provinces ofNorth America, who by their dissensions with the inhabitants of their respective governments, have lost their whole salary, his Majesty having no power to make them pay it. If a governor had no other resource in these circumstances, he would be obliged either to resign his office, or to be content with an income too small for his dignity; or else to conform himself in every thing to the inclinations of the inhabitants: but there are several stated profits, which in some measure make up for this. 1. No one is allowed to keep a public house without the governor’s leave; which is only to be obtained by the payment of a certain fee, according to the circumstances of the person. Some governors therefore, when the inhabitants refused to pay them a salary, have hit upon the expedient of doubling the number of inns in their province. 2. Few people who intend to be married, unless they be very poor, will have their banns published from the[262]pulpit; but instead of this they get licences from the governor, which impower any minister to marry them. Now for such a licence the governor receives about half a guinea, and this collected throughout the whole province, amounts to a considerable sum. 3. The governor signs all passports, and especially of such as go to sea; and this gives him another means of supplying his expences. There are several other advantages allowed to him, but as they are very trifling, I shall omit them.At the above assembly the old laws are reviewed and amended, and new ones are made: and the regulation and circulation of coin, together with all other affairs of that kind are there determined. For it is to be observed that eachEnglishcolony inNorth Americais independent of the other, and that each has its proper laws and coin, and may be looked upon in several lights, as a state by itself. From hence it happens, that in time of war, things go on very slowly and irregularly here: for not only the sense of one province is sometimes directly opposite to that of another; but frequently the views of the governor, and those of the assembly of the same province, are quite different: so that it is easy to see, that, while the people are quarrelling about[263]the best and cheapest manner of carrying on the war, an enemy has it in his power to take one place after another. It has commonly happened that whilst some provinces have been suffering from their enemies, the neighbouring ones were quiet and inactive, and as if it did not in the least concern them. They have frequently taken up two or three years in considering whether they should give assistance to an oppressed sister colony, and sometimes they have expresly declared themselves against it. There are instances of provinces who were not only neuter in these circumstances, but who even carried on a great trade with the power which at that very time was attacking and laying waste some other provinces.TheFrenchinCanada, who are but an inconsiderable body, in comparison with theEnglishinAmerica, have by this position of affairs been able to obtain great Advantages in times of war; for if we judge from the number and power of theEnglish, it would seem very easy for them to get the better of theFrenchinAmerica.41[264]

Thegreyandflying Squirrelsare so tamed by the boys, that they sit on their shoulders, and follow them every where.

TheTurkey CocksandHensrun about in the woods of this country, and differ in nothing from our tame ones, except in their superior size, and redder, though more palatable flesh. When their eggs are found in the wood, and put under tameTurkeyhens, the young ones become tame; however when they grow up, it sometimes happens that they fly away; their wings are therefore commonly clipped, especially when young. But the tamed turkeys are commonly much more irascible, than those which are naturally tame. The Indians likewise employ themselves in taming them and keeping them near their huts.

WildGeesehave likewise been tamed in the following manner. When the wild geese first come hither in spring, and stop a little while (for they do not breed inPensylvania) the people try to shoot them in the wing, which however is generally mere chance. They then row to the place where[210]the wild goose fell, catch it, and keep it for some time at home, by this means many of them have been made so tame, that when they were let out in the morning, they returned in the evening, but to be more sure of them, their wings are commonly clipped. I have seen wild geese of this kind, which the owner assured me, that he had kept for more than twelve years; but though he kept eight of them, yet he never had the pleasure to see them copulate with the tame ones, or lay eggs.

Partridges, which are here in abundance, may likewise be so far tamed, as to run about all day with the poultry, and to come along with them to be fed when they are called. In the same manner I have seenwild Pigeons, which were made so tame as to fly out and return again. In some winters there are immense quantities of wild pigeons inPensylvania.

Octoberthe 24th. Of all the rare birds ofNorth America, theHumming birdis the most admirable, or at least most worthy of peculiar attention. Several reasons induce me to believe that few parts of the world can produce its equal. Dr.Linnæuscalls itTrochilus Colubris. TheSwedesand someEnglishmencall it theKing’s bird, but the name ofHumming birdis more common.[211]Catesbyin hisNatural History of Carolina, Vol. i. page 65, tab. 65. has drawn it, in its natural size, with its proper colours, and added a description of it.34In size it is not much bigger than a largehumble bee, and is therefore the least of all birds,35or it is much if there is a lesser species in the world. Its plumage is most beautifully coloured, most of its feathers being green, some grey, and others forming a shining red ring round its neck; the tail glows with fine feathers, changing from green into a brass colour. These birds come here in spring about the time when it begins to grow very warm, and make their nests in summer, but towards autumn they retreat again into the more southern countries ofAmerica. They subsist barely upon the nectar, or sweet juice of flowers contained in that part, which botanists call the nectarium, and which they suck up with their long bills. Of all the flowers, they like those most, which have a long tube, and I[212]have observed that they have fluttered chiefly about theImpatiens Noli tangere, and theMonardawith crimson flowers. An inhabitant of the country is sure to have a number of these beautiful and agreeable little birds before his window all the summer long, if he takes care to plant a bed with all sorts of fine flowers under them. It is indeed a diverting spectacle to see these little active creatures flying about the flowers like bees, and sucking their juices with their long and narrow bills. The flowers of the above-mentionedMonardagrowverticillated, that is, at different distances they surround the stalk, as the flowers of our mint (Mentha) bastard hemp (Galeopsis) mother-wort (Leonurus) and dead nettle (Lamium). It is therefore diverting to see them putting their bills into every flower in the circle. As soon as they have sucked the juice of one flower, they flutter to the next. One that has not seen them would hardly believe in how short a space of time they have had their tongues in all the flowers of a plant, which when large and with a long tube, the little bird by putting its head into them, looks as if it crept with half its body into them.

During their sucking the juice out of the flowers they never settle on it, but[213]flutter continually like bees, bend their feet backwards, and move their wings so quick, that they are hardly visible. During this fluttering they make a humming like bees, or like that which is occasioned by the turning of a little wheel. After they have thus, without resting, fluttered for a while, they fly to a neighbouring tree or post, and resume their vigour again. They then return to their humming and sucking. They are not very shy, and I in company with several other people, have not been full two yards from the place where they fluttered about and sucked the flowers; and though we spoke and moved, yet they were no ways disturbed; but on going towards them, they would fly off with the swiftness of an arrow. When several of them were on the same bed, there was always a violent combat between them, in meeting each other at the same flower (for envy was likewise predominant amongst these little creatures) and they attacked with such impetuosity, that it would seem as if the strongest would pierce its antagonist through and through, with its long bill. During the fight, they seem to stand in the air, keeping themselves up, by the incredibly swift motion of their wings. When the windows towards the garden are open, they[214]pursue each other into the rooms, fight a little, and flutter away again. Sometimes they come to a flower which is withering, and has no more juice in it; they then in a fit of anger pluck it off, and throw it on the ground, that it may not mislead them for the future. If a garden contains a great number of these little birds, they are seen to pluck off the flowers in such quantities, that the ground is quite covered with them, and it seems as if this proceeded from a motion of envy.

Commonly you hear no other sound than their humming, but when they fly against each other in the air, they make a chirping noise like a sparrow or chicken. I have sometimes walked with several other people in small gardens, and these birds have on all sides fluttered about us, without appearing very shy. They are so small that one would easily mistake them for great humming-bees or butterflies, and their flight resembles that of the former, and is incredibly swift. They have never been observed to feed on insects or fruit; the nectar of flowers, seems therefore to be their only food. Several people have caught some humming birds on account of their singular beauty, and have put them into cages, where they died for want of a proper food.[215]However Mr.Bartramhas kept a couple of them for several weeks together, by feeding them with water in which sugar had been dissolved, and I am of opinion that it would not be difficult to keep them all winter in a hot-house.

The humming bird always builds its nest in the middle of a branch of a tree, and it is so small, that it cannot be seen from the ground, but he who intends to see it must get up to the branch. For this reason it is looked upon as a great rarity if a nest is accidentally found, especially as the trees in summer have so thick a foliage. The nest is likewise the least of all; that which is in my possession is quite round, and consists in the inside of a brownish and quite soft down, which seems to have been collected from the leaves of the great mullein orVerbascum Thapsus, which are often found covered with a soft wool of this colour, and the plant is plentiful here. The outside of the nest has a coating of green moss, such as is common on old pales or enclosures and on trees; the inner diameter of the nest is hardly a geometrical inch at the top, and its depth half an inch. It is however known that the humming birds make their nests likewise of flax, hemp, moss, hair and other such soft[216]materials; they are said to lay two eggs, each of the size of a pea.

Octoberthe 25th. I employed this day and the next in packing up all the seeds gathered this autumn, for I had an opportunity of sending them toEnglandby the ships which sailed about this time. FromEnglandthey were forwarded toSweden.

Octoberthe 27th. In the morning I set out on a little journey toNew York, in company with Mr.Peter Cock, with a view to see the country, and to enquire into the safest road, which I could take in going toCanada, through the desart or uninhabited country between it and theEnglishprovinces.

That part where we travelled at present was pretty well inhabited on both sides of the road, byEnglishmen,Germansand otherEuropeans. Plains and hills of different dimensions were seen alternately, mountains and stones, I never saw, excepting a few pebbles. Near almost every farm was a great orchard with peach and apple trees, some of which were yet loaded with fruit.

The enclosures were in some parts low enough, for the cattle to leap over them with ease; to prevent this the hogs had a triangular wooden yoke: this custom was as I have already observed, common over[217]all theEnglishplantations. To the horses neck was fastened a piece of wood, which at the lower end had a tooth or hook, fastening in the enclosure, and stopping the horse, just when it lifted its fore feet to leap over; but I know not whether this be a good invention with regard to horses. They were likewise kept in bounds by a piece of wood, one end of which was fastened to one of the fore feet, and the other to one of the hind feet, and it forced them to walk pretty slowly, as at the same time it made it impossible for them to leap over the enclosures. To me it appeared that the horses were subject to all sorts of dangerous accidents from this piece of wood.

NearNew Frankfurtwe rode over a little stone bridge, and somewhat further, eight or nineEnglishmiles fromPhiladelphiawe passed over another, which was likewise of stone. There are not yet any milestones put up in the country, and the inhabitants only compute the distances by guess. We were afterwards brought over a river in a ferry, where we paid threepence a person, for ourselves and our horses.

At one of the places where we stopt to have our horses fed, the people had aMocking-birdin a cage; and it is here reckoned the best singing bird, though its[218]plumage be very simple, and not showy at all. At this time of the year it does not sing.Linnæuscalls itTurdus polyglottos, andCatesbyin hisNatural History of Carolina, Vol. 1. p. 27. tab. 27, has likewise described and drawn this bird. The people said that it built its nests in the bushes and trees, but is so shy, that if any body come and look at its eggs, it leaves the nest, never to come to it again. Its young ones require great care in being bred up. If they are taken from their mother and put into a cage, she feeds them for three or four days; but seeing no hopes of setting them at liberty, she flies away. It then often happens, that the young ones die soon after, doubtless because they cannot accustom themselves to eat what the people give them. But it is generally imagined, that the last time the mother feeds them, she finds means to poison them, in order, the sooner to deliver them from slavery and wretchedness. These birds stay all summer in the colonies, but retire in autumn to the south, and stay away all winter. They have got the name ofMocking-birds, on account of their skill in imitating the note of almost every bird they hear. The song peculiar to them is excellent, and varied by an infinite change of[219]notes and melody; several people are therefore of opinion, that they are the best singing birds in the world. So much is certain, that few birds come up to them; this is what makes them precious: theSwedescall it by the same name as theEnglish.

About noon we came toNew Bristol, a small town inPensylvania, on the banks of theDelaware, about fifteenEnglishmilesfromPhiladelphia. Most of the houses are built of stone, and stand asunder. The inhabitants carry on a small trade, though most of them get their goods fromPhiladelphia. On the other side of the river, almost directly opposite toNew Bristol, lies the town ofBurlington, in which the governor ofNew Jerseyresides.

We had now country seats on both sides of the roads. Now we came into a lane enclosed with pales on both sides, including pretty great corn-fields. Next followed a wood, and we perceived for the space of fourEnglishmiles nothing but woods, and a very poor soil, on which theLupinus perennisgrew plentifully and succeeded well. I was overjoyed to see a plant come on so well in these poor dry places, and even began to meditate, how to improve this discovery in a soil like that which it inhabited. But I afterwards had the mortification to find that[220]the horses and cows eat almost all the other plants, but left the lupine, which was however very green, looked very fresh, and was extremely soft to the touch. Perhaps means may be found out of making this plant palatable to the cattle. In the evening we arrived atTrenton, after having previously passed theDelawarein a ferry.

Octoberthe 28th.Trentonis a long narrow town, situate at some distance from the riverDelaware, on a sandy plain; it belongs toNew Jersey, and they reckon it thirty miles fromPhiladelphia. It has two small churches, one for the people belonging to the church ofEngland, the other for the presbyterians. The houses are partly built of stone, though most of them are made of wood or planks, commonly two stories high, together with a cellar below the building, and a kitchen under ground, close to the cellar. The houses stand at a moderate distance from one another. They are commonly built so, that the street passes along one side of the houses, while gardens of different dimensions bound the other side; in each garden is a draw-well; the place is reckoned very healthy. Our landlord told us, that twenty-two years ago, when he first settled here, there was hardly more than one house; but from that[221]timeTrentonhas encreased so much, that there are at present near a hundred houses. The houses were within divided into several rooms by their partitions of boards. The inhabitants of the place carried on a small trade with the goods which they got fromPhiladelphia, but their chief gain consisted in the arrival of the numerous travellers between that city andNew York; for they are commonly brought by theTrentonYachts fromPhiladelphiatoTrenton, or from thence toPhiladelphia. But fromTrentonfurther toNew Brunswick, the travellers go in the waggons which set out every day for that place. Several of the inhabitants however likewise subsist on the carriage for all sorts of goods, which are every day sent in great quantities, either fromPhiladelphiatoNew York, or from thence to the former place; for betweenPhiladelphiaandTrentonall goods go by water, but betweenTrentonandNew Brunswickthey are all carried by land, and both these conveniences belong to people of this town.

For the yachts which go between this place and the capital ofPensylvania, they usually pay a shilling and six-pence ofPensylvaniacurrency per person, and every one pays besides for his baggage. Every passenger[222]must provide meat and drink for himself, or pay some settled fare: betweenTrentonandNew Brunswicka person pays two shillings and sixpence, and the baggage is likewise paid for separately.

We continued our journey in the morning; the country through which we passed was for the greatest part level, though sometimes there were some long hills, some parts were covered with trees, but far the greater part of the country was without woods; on the other hand I never saw any place inAmerica, the towns excepted, so well peopled. An old man, who lived in this neighbourhood and accompanied us for some part of the road, however assured me, that he could well remember the time, when betweenTrentonandNew Brunswickthere were not above three farms, and he reckoned it was about fifty and some odd years ago. During the greater part of the day we had very extensive corn-fields on both sides of the road, and commonly towards the south the country had a great declivity. Near almost every farm was a spacious orchard full of peaches and apple trees, and in some of them the fruit was fallen from the trees in such quantities, as to cover nearly the whole surface. Part of it they left to rot, since they could not take it all in[223]and consume it. Wherever we passed by we were always welcome to go into the fine orchards, and gather our hats and pockets full of the choicest fruit, without the possessor’s so much as looking after it. Cherry trees were planted near the farms, on the roads, &c.

Thebarns36had a peculiar kind of construction hereabouts, which I will give a concise description of. The whole building was very great, so as almost to equal a small church; the roof was pretty high, covered with wooden shingles, declining on both sides, but not steep: the walls which support it, were not much higher than a full grown man; but on the other hand the breadth of the building was the more considerable: in the middle was the threshing floor, and above it, or in the loft or garret they put the corn which was not yet threshed, the straw, or any thing else, according to the season: on one side were stables for the horses, and on the other for the cows. And the small cattle had likewise their particular stables or styes; on both ends of the buildings were great gates,[224]so that one could come in with a cart and horses through one of them, and go out at the other: here was therefore under one roof the threshing floor, the barn, the stables, the hay loft, the coach house, &c. This kind of buildings is chiefly made use of by theDutchandGermans; for it is to be observed that the country betweenTrentonandNew York, is inhabited by fewEnglishmen, but instead of them byGermansorDutch,37the latter of which especially are numerous.

Before I proceed, I find it necessary to remark one thing with regard to the Indians, or oldAmericans. For this account may perhaps meet with readers, who, like many people of my acquaintance, may be of opinion that allNorth America, was almost wholly inhabited by savage or heathen nations, and they may be astonished, that I do not mention them more frequently in my account. Others may perhaps imagine, that when I mention in my journal, that the country is much cultivated, that in several places, houses of stone or wood are built, round which are corn-fields, gardens,[225]and orchards, that I am speaking of the property of theIndians; to undeceive them, I here give the following explication. The country especially all along the coasts, in theEnglishcolonies, is inhabited byEuropeans, who in some places are already so numerous, that few parts ofEuropeare more populous. TheIndianshave sold the country to theEuropeans, and have retired further up: in most parts you may travel twentySwedishmiles, or about a hundred and twentyEnglishmiles, from the sea shore, before you reach the first habitations of theIndians. And it is very possible for a person to have been atPhiladelphiaand other towns on the sea shore for half a year together, without so much as seeing anIndian. I intend in the sequel to give a more circumstantial account of them, their religion, manners, oeconomy, and other particulars relating to them: at present I return to the sequel of my journal.

About nine English miles fromTrenton, the ground began to change its colour; hitherto it consisted of a considerable quantity of hazel coloured clay, but at present the earth was a reddish brown, so that it sometimes had a purple colour, and sometimes looked like logwood. This colour came from a red limestone which approached[226]very near to that which is on the mountainKinnekulleinWest Gothland, and makes a particular stratum in the rock. TheAmericanredlimestonetherefore seems to be merely a variety of that I saw inSweden, it lay in strata of two or three fingers thickness; but was divisible into many thinner plates or shivers, whose surface was seldom flat and smooth, but commonly rough: the strata themselves were frequently cut off by horizontal cracks. When these stones were exposed to the air, they by degrees shivered and withered into pieces, and at last turned into dust. The people of this neighbourhood did not know how to make any use of it; the soil above is sometimes rich and sometimes poor: in such places where the people had lately dug new wells, I perceived, that most of the rubbish which was thrown up consisted of such a species of stone. This reddish brown earth we always saw till nearNew Brunswick, where it is particularly plentiful. The banks of the river, shewed in many places nothing but strata ofLimestone, which did not run horizontally, but dipped very much.

About ten o’clock in the morning we came toPrince-town, which is situated in a plain. Most of the houses are built of wood, and are not contiguous, so that there[227]are gardens and pastures between them. As these parts were sooner inhabited byEuropeansthanPensylvania, the woods were likewise more cut away, and the country more cultivated, so that one might have imagined himself to be inEurope.

We now thought of continuing our journey, but as it began to rain very heavily, and continued so during the whole day and part of the night, we were forced to stay till next morning,

Octoberthe 29th. This morning we proceeded on our journey. The country was pretty well peopled; however there were yet great woods in many places: they all consisted of deciduous trees: and I did not perceive a single tree of the fir kind, till I came toNew Brunswick. The ground was level, and did not seem to be every where of the richest kind. In some places it had hillocks, losing themselves almost imperceptibly in the plains, which were commonly crossed by a rivulet. Almost near every farm-house were great orchards. The houses were commonly built of timber, and at some distance by themselves stood the ovens for baking, consisting commonly of clay.

On a hill covered with trees, and calledRockhill, I saw several pieces of stone or[228]rock, so big, that they would have required three men to roll them down. But besides these there were few great stories in the country; for most of those which we saw, could easily be lifted up by a single man. In another place we perceived a number of little round pebbles, but we did not meet with either mountains or rocks.

About noon we arrived atNew Brunswick, a pretty little town in the province ofNew Jersey, in a valley on the west side of the riverRareton; on account of its low situation, it cannot be seen (coming fromPensylvania) before you get to the top of the hill, which is quite close up to it: the town extends north and south along the river. TheGermaninhabitants have two churches, one of stone and the other of wood; theEnglishchurch is of the latter kind, but the presbyterians were building one of stone: the town house makes likewise a pretty good appearance. Some of the other houses are built of bricks, but most of them are made either wholly of wood, or of bricks and wood; the wooden houses are not made of strong timber, but merely of boards or planks, which are within joined by laths: such houses as consist of both wood and bricks, have only the wall towards the street of bricks, all the other sides being merely of planks. This[229]peculiar kind of ostentation would easily lead a traveller, who passes through the town in haste, to believe that most of the houses are built of bricks. The houses were covered with shingles; before each door there was an elevation, to which you ascend by some steps from the street; it resembled a small balcony, and had some benches on both sides, on which the people sat in the evening, in order to enjoy the fresh air, and to have the pleasure of viewing those who passed by. The town has only one street lengthways, and at its northern extremity there is a street across; both of these are of a considerable length.

The riverRaretonpasses hard by the town, and is deep enough for great yachts to come up; its breadth near the town is within the reach of a common gun shot; the tide comes up several miles beyond the town, the yachts were placed lengthways along the bridge; the river has very high and pretty steep banks on both sides, but near the town there are no such banks, it being situated in a low valley. One of the streets is almost entirely inhabited byDutchmen, who came hither fromAlbany, and for that reason they call itAlbany street: theseDutchpeople only keep company among themselves, and seldom or never go amongst the other inhabitants, living as it were[230]quite separate from them.New Brunswickbelongs toNew Jersey; however the greatest part, or rather all its trade is toNew York, which is about forty English miles distant; to that place they send corn, flour in great quantities, bread, several other necessaries, a great quantity of linseed, boards timber, wooden vessels, and all sorts of carpenters work. Several small yachts are every day going backwards and forwards between these two towns. The inhabitants likewise get a considerable profit from the travellers, who every hour pass through, on the high road.

The steep banks consist of the red limestone, which I have before described. It is here plainly visible that the strata are not horizontal, but considerably dipping, especially towards the south. The weather and the air has in a great measure dissolved the stone here: I enquired, whether it could not be made use of, but was assured, that in building houses it was entirely useless; for, though it is hard and permanent under ground, yet on being dug out, and exposed for some time to the air, it first crumbles into greater, then into lesser pieces, and at last is converted into dust. An inhabitant of this town, however tried to build a house with this sort of stone, but[231]its outsides being exposed to the air, soon began to change so much, that the owner was obliged to put boards all over the wall, to preserve it from falling to pieces. The people however pretend that this stone is a very good manure, if it is scattered upon the corn-fields in its rubbish state, for it is said to stifle the weeds: it is therefore made use of both on the fields and in gardens.38

Towards the evening we continued our journey, and were ferried over the riverRareton, together with our horses. In a very dry summer, and when the tide has ebbed, it is by no means dangerous to ride through this river. On the opposite shore the red juniper tree was pretty abundant. The country through which we now passed was pretty well inhabited, but in most places full of small pebbles.

We sawGuinea Hensin many places where we passed by. They sometimes run about the fields, at a good distance from the farm-houses.

About eight English miles fromNew Brunswick, the road divided. We took that on the left, for that on the right leads[232]toAmboy, the chief sea-town inNew Jersey. The country now made a charming appearance; some parts being high, others forming vallies, and all of them well cultivated. From the hills you had a prospect of houses, farms, gardens, corn-fields, forests, lakes, islands, roads, and pastures.

In most of the places where we travelled this day the colour of the ground was reddish. I make no doubt, but there were strata of the before-mentioned red limestone under it. Sometimes the ground looked very like a cinnabar ore.

Wood-bridgeis a small village in a plain, consisting of a few houses: we stopped here to rest our horses a little. The houses were most of them built of boards; the walls had a covering of shingles on the outside; these shingles were round at one end, and all of a length in each row: some of the houses had an Italian roof, but the greatest part had roofs with pediments; most of them were covered with shingles. In most places we met with wells and buckets to draw up the water.

Elizabeth-townis a small town, about twenty English miles distant fromNew Brunswick: we arrived there immediately after sun setting. Its houses are mostly scattered, but well built, and generally[233]of boards, with a roof of shingles, and walls covered with the same. There were likewise some stone buildings. A little rivulet passes through the town from west to east; it is almost reduced to nothing when the water ebbs away, but with the full tide they can bring up small yachts. Here were two fine churches, each of which made a much better appearance than any one inPhiladelphia. That belonging to the people of the church ofEnglandwas built of bricks, had a steeple with bells, and a balustrade round it, from which there was a prospect of the country. The meeting house of the presbyterians was built of wood, but had both a steeple and bells, and was, like the other houses covered with shingles. The town house made likewise a good appearance, and had a spire with a bell. The banks of the river were red, from the reddish limestone; both in and about the town were many gardens and orchards, and it might truly be said thatElizabeth-townwas situated in a garden; the ground hereabouts being even and well cultivated.

The geese, in some of the places by which we passed this day and the next, carried three or four little sticks, of the length of a foot about their necks; they[234]were fastened crossways, to prevent them from creeping through half broken enclosures. They look extremely awkward, and it is very diverting to see them in this attire.

At night we took up our lodgings atElizabeth-town Point, an inn about twoEnglishmiles distant from the town, and the last house on this road belonging toNew Jersey. The man who had taken the lease of it, together with that of the ferry near it, told us that he paid a hundred and ten pounds ofPensylvaniacurrency to the owner.

Octoberthe 30th. We were ready to proceed on our journey at sun-rising. Near the inn where we had passed the night, we were to cross a river, and we were brought over, together with our horses, in a wretched half rotten ferry. This river came a considerable way out of the country, and small vessels could easily sail up it. This was a great advantage to the inhabitants of the neighbouring country, giving them an opportunity of sending their goods toNew Yorkwith great ease; and they even made use of it for trading to theWest Indies. The country was low on both sides of the river, and consisted of meadows. But there was no other hay to be got, than such as commonly[235]grows in swampy grounds; for as the tide comes up in this river, these low plains were sometimes overflowed when the water was high. The people hereabouts are said to be troubled in summer with immense swarms of gnats or musquetoes, which sting them and their cattle. This was ascribed to the low swampy meadows, on which these insects deposite their eggs, which are afterwards hatched by the heat.

As soon as we had got over the river, we were uponStaten Island, which is quite surrounded with salt water. This is the beginning of the province ofNew York. Most of the people settled here wereDutchmen, or such as came hither whilst theDutchwere yet in possession of this place. But at present they were scattered among theEnglishand otherEuropeaninhabitants, and spokeEnglishfor the greatest part. The prospect of the country here is extremely pleasing, as it is not so much intercepted by woods, but offers more cultivated fields to view. Hills and vallies still continued, as usual, to change alternately.

The farms were near each other. Most of the houses were wooden; however some were built of stone. Near every farm-house was an orchard with apple trees: the fruit was already for the greatest part gathered.[236]Here, and on the whole journey before, I observed a press for cyder at every farm-house, made in different manners, by which the people had already pressed the juice out of the apples, or were just busied with that work. Some people made use of a wheel made of thick oak planks, which turned upon a wooden axis by means of a horse drawing it, much in the same manner as the people do with woad;39except that here the wheel runs upon planks. Cherry trees stood along the enclosures round corn-fields.

The corn-fields were excellently situated, and either sown with wheat or rye. They had no ditches on their sides, but (as is usual inEngland) only furrows, drawn at greater or lesser distances from each other.

In one place we observed a water mill, so situated, that when the tide flowed, the water ran into a pond: but when it ebbed, the floodgate was drawn up, and the mill driven by the water, flowing out of the pond.

About eight o’clock in the morning we arrived at the place where we were to cross[237]the water, in order to come to the town ofNew York. We left our horses here and went on board the yacht: we were to go eightEnglishmiles by sea; however we landed about eleven o’clock in the morning atNew York. We saw a kind of wild ducks in immense quantities upon the water: the people called themBlue bills, and they seemed to be the same with ourPintail ducks, orLinnæus’sAnas acuta: but they were very shy. On the shore of the continent we saw some very fine sloping corn-fields, which at present looked quite green, the corn being already come up. We saw many boats in which the fishermen were busy catching oysters: to this purpose they make use of a kind of rakes with long iron teeth bent inwards; these they used either singly or two tied together in such a manner, that the teeth were turned towards each other.

Octoberthe 31st. AboutNew Yorkthey find innumerable quantities of excellent oysters, and there are few places which have oysters of such an exquisite taste, and of so great a size: they are pickled and sent to theWest Indiesand other places; which is done in the following manner. As soon as the oysters are caught, their shells are opened, and the fish washed clean;[238]some water is then poured into a pot, the oysters are put into it, and they must boil for a while; the pot is then taken off from the fire again, the oysters taken out and put upon a dish, till they are somewhat dry: then you take some mace, allspice, black pepper, and as much vinegar as you think is sufficient to give a sourish taste. All this is mixed with half the liquor in which the oysters were boiled, and put over the fire again. While you boil it great care is to be taken in scumming off the thick scum; at last the whole pickle is poured into a glass or earthen vessel, the oysters are put to it, and the vessel is well stopped to keep out the air. In this manner, oysters will keep for years together, and may be sent to the most distant parts of the world.

The merchants here buy up great quantities of oysters about this time, pickle them in the above-mentioned manner, and send them to theWest Indies: by which they frequently make a considerable profit: for, the oysters, which cost them five shillings of their currency, they commonly sell for a pistole, or about six times as much as they gave for them; and sometimes they get even more: the oysters which are thus pickled have a very fine flavour. The following is another way of preserving oysters:[239]they are taken out of the shells, fried with butter, put into a glass or earthen vessel with the melted butter over them, so that they are quite covered with it, and no air can get to them. Oysters prepared in this manner have likewise an agreeable taste, and are exported to theWest Indiesand other parts.

Oystersare here reckoned very wholesome, some people assured us, that they had not felt the least inconvenience, after eating a considerable quantity of them. It is likewise a common rule here that oysters are best in those months which have anrin their name, such asSeptember,October, &c; but that they are not so good in other months; however there are poor people, who live all the year long upon nothing but oysters with bread.

The sea nearNew York, affords annually the greatest quantity of oysters. They are found chiefly in a muddy ground, where they lie in the slime, and are not so frequent in a sandy bottom: a rockey and a stony bottom is seldom found here. The oyster shells are gathered in great heaps, and burnt into a lime, which by some people is made use of in building houses, but is not reckoned so good as that made of limestone. On our journey toNew York, we[240]saw high heaps of oyster shells near the farm-houses, upon the sea shore; and aboutNew York, we observed the people had carried them upon the fields which were sown with wheat. However they were entire, and not crushed.

TheIndianswho inhabited the coast before the arrival of theEuropeans, have made oysters and other shell fish their chief food; and at present whenever they come to a salt water where oysters are to be got, they are very active in catching them, and sell them in great quantities to otherIndianswho live higher up the country: for this reason you see immense numbers of oyster and muscle shells piled up near such places, where you are certain that theIndiansformerly built their huts. This circumstance ought to make us cautious in maintaining, that in all places on the sea shore, or higher up in the country, where such heaps of shells are to be met with, the latter have lain there ever since the time that those places were overflowed by the sea.

Lobstersare likewise plentyfully caught hereabouts, pickled much in the same way as oysters, and sent to several places. I was told of a very remarkable circumstance about these lobsters, and I have afterwards frequently heard it mentioned. The coast[241]ofNew Yorkhad alreadyEuropeaninhabitants for a considerable time, yet no lobsters were to be met with on that coast; and though the people fished ever so often, they could never find any signs of lobsters being in this part of the sea: they were therefore continually brought in great wellboats fromNew England, where they are plentiful; but it happened that one of these wellboats broke in pieces nearHellgate, about tenEnglishmiles fromNew York, and all the lobsters in it got off. Since that time they have so multiplied in this part of the sea, that they are now caught in the greatest abundance.

Novemberthe 1st. A kind of cold fever, which theEnglishin this country callFever and Ague, is very common in several parts of theEnglishcolonies. There are however other parts, where the people have never felt it. I will in the sequel describe the symptoms of this disease at large. Several of the most considerable inhabitants of this town, assured me that this disease was not near so common inNew York, as it is inPensylvania, where ten were seized by it, to one in the former province; therefore they were of opinion, that this disease was occasioned by the vapours arising from stagnant fresh water, from[242]marshes, and from rivers; for which reason those provinces situated on the sea shore, could not be so much affected by it. However the carelesness with which people eat quantities of melons, watermelons, peaches, and other juicy fruit in summer, was reckoned to contribute much towards the progress of this fever; and repeated examples confirmed the truth of this opinion. The jesuit’s bark was reckoned a good remedy against it. It has however often been found to have operated contrary to expectation, though I am ignorant whether it was adulterated, or whether some mistake had been committed in the manner of taking it. Mr.Davis van Horne, a merchant, told me that he cured himself and several other people of this fever, by the leaves of the commonGarden Sage, orSalvia officinalisofLinnæus. The leaves are crushed or pounded in a mortar, and the juice is pressed out of them; this is continued till they get a spoonful of the liquid, which is mixed with lemon juice. This draught is taken about the time that the cold fit comes on; and after taking it three or four times, the fever does not come again.

The bark of the white oak was reckoned the best remedy which had as yet been found against the dysentery. It is reduced to a[243]powder, and then taken: some people assured me that in cases where nothing would help, this remedy had given a certain and speedy relief. The people in this place likewise make use of this bark (as is usually done in theEnglishcolonies) to dye wool a brown colour, which looks like that of bohea tea, and does not fade by being exposed to the sun. Among the numerous shells which are found on the sea shore, there are some which by theEnglishhere are calledClams, and which bear some resemblance to the human ear. They have a considerable thickness, and are chiefly white, excepting the pointed end, which both without and within has a blue colour, between purple and violet. They are met with in vast numbers on the sea shore ofNew York,Long Island, and other places. The shells contain a large animal, which is eaten both by theIndiansandEuropeanssettled here.

A considerable commerce is carried on in this article, with such Indians as live further up the country. When these people inhabited the coast, they were able to catch their own clams, which at that time made a great part of their food; but at present this is the business of theDutchandEnglish, who live inLong Islandand other[244]maritime provinces. As soon as the shells are caught, the fish is taken out of them, drawn upon a wire, and hung up in the open air, in order to dry by the heat of the sun. When this is done, the fish is put into proper vessels, and carried toAlbanyupon the riverHudson; there the Indians buy them, and reckon them one of their best dishes. Besides theEuropeans, many of the native Indians come annually down to the sea shore, in order to catch clams, proceeding with them afterwards in the manner I have just described.

The shells of these clams are used by the Indians as money, and make what they call their wampum; they likewise serve their women for an ornament, when they intend to appear in full dress. These wampums are properly made of the purple parts of the shells, which the Indians value more than the white parts. A traveller, who goes to trade with the Indians, and is well stocked with them, may become a considerable gainer; but if he take gold coin, or bullion, he will undoubtedly be a loser; for the Indians who live farther up the country, put little or no value upon these metals which we reckon so precious, as I have frequently observed in the course of my travels. The Indians formerly made[245]their own wampums, though not without a deal of trouble: but at present theEuropeansemploy themselves that way; especially the inhabitants ofAlbany, who get a considerable profit by it. In the sequel I intend to relate the manner of making the wampum.

Novemberthe 2d. Besides the different sects of christians, there are many Jews settled inNew York, who possess great privileges. They have a synagogue and houses, and great country seats of their own property, and are allowed to keep shops in town. They have likewise several ships, which they freight and send out with their own goods. In fine they enjoy all the privileges common to the other inhabitants of this town and province.

During my residence atNew York, this time and in the two next years, I was frequently in company with Jews. I was informed among other things, that these people never boiled any meat for themselves on saturday, but that they always did it the day before; and that in winter they kept a fire during the whole saturday. They commonly eat no pork; yet I have been told by several men of credit, that many of them (especially among the young Jews) when travelling, did not not make the least difficulty[246]about eating this, or any other meat that was put before them; even though they were in company with christians. I was in their synagogue last evening for the first time, and this day at noon I visited it again, and each time I was put into a particular seat which was set apart for strangers or christians. A youngRabbiread the divine service, which was partly in Hebrew, and partly in the Rabinical dialect. Both men and women were dressed entirely in theEnglishfashion; the former had all of them their hats on, and did not once take them off during service. The galleries, I observed, were appropriated to the ladies, while the men sat below. During prayers the men spread a white cloth over their heads; which perhaps is to represent sack cloth. But I observed that the wealthier sort of people had a much richer cloth than the poorer ones. Many of the men had Hebrew books, in which they sang and read alternately. TheRabbistood in the middle of the synagogue, and read with his face turned towards the east; he spoke however so fast, as to make it almost impossible for any one to understand what he said.40[247]

New York, the capital of a province of the same name is situated under forty deg. and forty min. north lat. and forty seven deg. and four min. of western long. fromLondon; and is about ninety sevenEnglishmiles distant fromPhiladelphia. The situation of it is extremely advantageous for trade: for the town stands upon a point which is formed by two bays; into one of which the riverHudsondischarges itself, not far from the town;New Yorkis therefore on three sides surrounded with water;the ground it is built on, is level in some parts, and hilly in others: the place is generally reckoned very wholesome.

The town was first founded by theDutch: this, it is said, was done in the year 1623, when they were yet masters of the country: they called itNew Amsterdam, and the country itselfNew Holland. TheEnglish, towards the end of the year 1664, taking possession of it under the conduct ofDes Cartes, and keeping it by the virtue of the next treaty of peace, gave the name ofNew Yorkto both the town, and the province belonging to it: in size it comes nearest toBostonandPhiladelphia. But with regard to its fine buildings, its opulence, and extensive commerce, it disputes the preference with[248]them: at present it is about half as big again asGothenburghinSweden.

The streets do not run so straight as those ofPhiladelphia, and have sometimes considerable bendings: however they are very spacious and well built, and most of them are paved, except in high places, where it has been found useless. In the chief streets there are trees planted, which in summer give them a fine appearance, and during the excessive heat at that time, afford a cooling shade: I found it extremely pleasant to walk in the town, for it seemed quite like a garden: the trees which are planted for this purpose are chiefly of two kinds. TheWater beech, orLinnæus’sPlatanus occidentalis, are the most numerous, and give an agreeable shade in summer, by their great and numerous leaves. TheLocust tree, orLinnæus’sRobinia Pseud-Acaciais likewise frequent: its fine leaves, and the odoriferous scent which exhales from its flowers, make it very proper for being planted in the streets near the houses, and in gardens. There are likewise lime trees and elms, in these walks, but they are not by far so frequent as the others: one seldom met with trees of the same sort next to each other, they being in general planted alternately.[249]

Besides numbers of birds of all kinds which make these trees their abode, there are likewise a kind of frogs which frequent them in great numbers in summer, they are Dr.Linnæus’sRana arborea, and especially theAmericanvariety of this animal. They are very clamorous in the evening and in the nights (especially when the days had been hot, and a rain was expected) and in a manner drown the singing of the birds. They frequently make such a noise, that it is difficult for a person to make himself heard.

Most of the houses are built of bricks; and are generally strong and neat, and several stories high. Some had, according to old architecture, turned the gable-end towards the streets; but the new houses were altered in this respect. Many of the houses had a balcony on the roof, on which the people used to sit in the evenings in the summer season; and from thence they had a pleasant view of a great part of the town, and likewise of part of the adjacent water and of the opposite shore. The roofs are commonly covered with tiles or shingles: the latter of which are made of the white firtree, orPinus Strobus(Linn.sp. plant. page 1419.) which grows higher up in the country. The inhabitants are of opinion[250]that a roof made of these shingles is as durable as one made inPensylvaniaof theWhite Cedar, orCupressus thyoides(Linn.spec. plant, page 1422.) The walls were whitewashed within, and I did not any where see hangings, with which the people in this country seem in general to be but little acquainted. The walls were quite covered with all sorts of drawings and pictures in small frames. On each side of the chimnies they had usually a sort of alcove; and the wall under the windows was wainscoted, and had benches placed near it. The alcoves, and all the wood work were painted with a bluish grey colour.

There are several churches in the town, which deserve some attention. 1.The English Church, built in the year 1695, at the west end of town, consisting of stone, and has a steeple with a bell. 2.The new Dutch Church, which is likewise built of stone, is pretty large and is provided with a steeple, it also has a clock, which is the only one in the town. This church stands almost due from north to south. No particular point of the compass has here been in general attended to in erecting sacred buildings. Some churches, stand as is usual from east to west, others from south to north, and others in different[251]positions. In thisDutchchurch, there is neither altar, vestry, choir, sconces, nor paintings. Some trees are planted round it, which make it look as if it was built in a wood. 3.The old Dutch church, which is also built of stone. It is not so large as the new one. It was painted in the inside, though without any images, and adorned with a small organ, of which governorBurnetmade them a present. The men for the most part sit in the gallery, and the women below. 4.The Presbyterian Church, which is pretty large, and was built but lately. It is of stone, and has a steeple and a bell in it. 5.The German Lutheran Church.6.The German Reformed Church.7.The French Church, for protestant refugees. 8.The Quaker’s Meeting house.9. To these may be added theJewish Synagogue, which I mentioned before.

Towards the sea, on the extremity of the promontory is a pretty good fortress, calledFort George, which entirely commands the port, and can defend the town, at least from a sudden attack on the sea side. Besides that, it is likewise secured on the north or towards the shore, by a pallisade, which however (as for a considerable time the people have had nothing to fear[252]from an enemy) is in many places in a very bad state of defence.

There is no good water to be met with in the town itself, but at a little distance there is a large spring of good water, which the inhabitants take for their tea, and for the uses of the kitchen. Those however, who are less delicate in this point, make use of the water from the wells in town, though it be very bad. This want of good water lies heavy upon the horses of the strangers that come to this place; for they do not like to drink the water from the wells in the town.

Theportis a good one: ships of the greatest burthen can lie in it, quite close up to the bridge: but its water is very salt, as the sea continually comes in upon it; and therefore is never frozen, except in extraordinary cold weather. This is of great advantage to the city and its commerce; for many ships either come in or go out of the port at any time of the year; unless the winds be contrary; a convenience, which as I have before observed, is wanting atPhiladelphia. It is secured from all violent hurricanes from the south-east byLong Islandwhich is situated just before the town: therefore only the storms from thesouth-westare dangerous to the ships which ride at[253]anchor here, because the port is open only on that side. The entrance however has its faults: one of them is, that no men of war can pass through it; for though the water is pretty deep, yet it is not sufficiently so for great ships. Sometimes even merchant ships of a large size have by the rolling of the waves and by sinking down between them, slightly touched the bottom, though without any bad consequences. Besides this, the canal is narrow; and for this reason many ships have been lost here, because they may be easily cast upon a sand, if the ship is not well piloted. Some old people, who had constantly been upon this canal, assured me, that it was neither deeper, nor shallower at present, than in their youth.

The common difference between high and low water atNew York, amounts to about six feet,Englishmeasure. But at a certain time in every month, when the tide flows more than commonly, the difference in the height of the water is seven feet.

New Yorkprobably carries on a more extensive commerce, than any town in theEnglishNorth American provinces; at least it may be said to equal them:BostonandPhiladelphiahowever come very near up to it. The trade ofNew Yorkextends to[254]many places, and it is said they send more ships from thence toLondon, than they do fromPhiladelphia. They export to that capital all the various sorts of skins which they buy of the Indians, sugar, logwood, and other dying woods, rum, mahogany, and many other goods which are the produce of theWest Indies; together with all the specie which they get in the course of trade. Every year they build several ships here, which are sent toLondon, and there sold; and of late years they have shipped a quantity of iron toEngland. In return for these, they import fromLondonstuffs and every other article ofEnglishgrowth or manufacture, together with all sorts of foreign goods.England, and especiallyLondon, profits immensely by its trade with theAmericancolonies; for not onlyNew York, but likewise all the otherEnglishtowns on the continent, import so many articles fromEngland, that all their specie, together with the goods which they get in other countries, must altogether go toOld England, in order to pay the amount, to which they are however insufficient. From hence it appears how much a well regulated colony contributes to the increase and welfare of its mother country.

New Yorksends many ships to theWest[255]Indies, with flour, corn, biscuit, timber, tuns, boards, flesh, fish, butter, and other provisions; together with some of the few fruits that grow here. Many ships go toBostoninNew England, with corn and flour, and take in exchange, flesh, butter, timber, different sorts of fish, and other articles, which they carry further to theWest Indies. They now and then take rum from thence, which is distilled there in great quantities, and sell it here with a considerable advantage. Sometimes they send yachts with goods fromNew YorktoPhiladelphia, and at other times yachts are sent fromPhiladelphiatoNew York; which is only done, as appears from the gazettes, because certain articles are cheaper at one place than at the other. They send ships toIrelandevery year, laden with all kinds ofWest Indiagoods; but especially with linseed, which is reaped in this province. I have been assured, that in some years no less than ten ships have been sent toIreland, laden with nothing but linseed; because it is said the flax inIrelanddoes not afford good seed. But probably the true reason is this: the people ofIreland, in order to have the better flax, make use of the plant before the seed is ripe, and therefore are obliged to send for foreign seed; and hence[256]it becomes one of the chief articles in trade.

At this time a bushel of linseed is sold for eight shillings ofNew Yorkcurrency, or exactly a piece of eight.

The goods which are shipped to theWest Indies, are sometimes paid for with ready money, and sometimes withWest Indiagoods, which are either first brought toNew York, or immediately sent toEnglandorHolland. If a ship does not chuse to take inWest Indiagoods in its return toNew York, or if no body will freight it, it often goes toNewcastleinEnglandto take in coals for ballast, which when brought home sell for a pretty good price. In many parts of the town coals are made use of, both for kitchen fires, and in rooms, because they are reckoned cheaper than wood, which at present costs thirty Shillings ofNew Yorkcurrency per fathom; of which measure I have before made mention.New Yorkhas likewise some intercourse withSouth Carolina; to which it sends corn, flour, sugar, rum, and other goods, and takes rice in return, which is almost the only commodity exported fromSouth Carolina.

The goods with which the province ofNew Yorktrades are not very numerous. They chiefly export the skins of animals,[257]which are bought of the Indians aboutOswego; great quantities of boards, coming for the most part fromAlbany; timber and ready made lumber, from that part of the country which lies about the riverHudson; and lastly wheat, flour, barley, oats and other kinds of corn, which are brought fromNew Jerseyand the cultivated parts of this province. I have seen yachts fromNew Brunswick, laden with wheat which lay loose on board, and with flour packed up into tuns; and also with great quantities of linseed.New Yorklikewise exports some flesh and other provisions out of its own province, but they are very few; nor is the quantity of pease which the people aboutAlbanybring much greater. Iron however may be had more plentifully, as it is found in several parts of this province, and is of a considerable goodness; but all the other products of this country are of little account.

Most of the wine, which is drank here and in the other colonies is brought from the Isle ofMadeiraand is very strong and fiery.

No manufactures of note have as yet been established here; at present they get all manufactured goods, such as woollen[258]and linen cloth, &c. fromEngland, and especially fromLondon.

The riverHudsonis very convenient for the commerce of this city; as it is navigable for near a hundred and fiftyEnglishmiles up the country, and falls into the bay not far from the town, on its western side. During eight months of the year this river is full of yachts, and other greater and lesser vessels, either going toNew Yorkor returning from thence, laden either with inland or foreign goods.

I cannot make a just estimate of the ships that annually come to this town or sail from it. But I have found by thePensylvaniagazettes that from the first ofDecemberin 1729, to the fifth ofDecemberin the next year, 211 ships entered the port ofNew York, and 222 cleared it; and since that time there has been a great increase of trade here.

The country people come to market inNew York, twice a week much in the same manner, as they do atPhiladelphia; with this difference, that the markets are here kept in several places.

The governor of the province ofNew York, resides here, and has a palace in the fort. Among those who have been entrusted with this post,William Burnetdeserves[259]to be had in perpetual remembrance. He was one of the sons of Dr.Thomas Burnet(so celebrated on account of his learning) and seemed to have inherited the knowledge of his father. But his great assiduity in promoting the welfare of this province, is what makes the principal merit of his character. The people ofNew Yorktherefore still reckon him the best governor they ever had, and think that they cannot praise his services too much. The many astronomical observations which he made in these parts, are inserted in severalEnglishworks. In the year 1727, at the accession of king George the II. to the throne ofGreat Britain, he was appointed governor ofNew England. In consequence of this he leftNew York, and went toBoston, where he died universally lamented, on the 7th. ofSeptember1729.

An assembly of deputies from all the particular districts of the province ofNew York, is held atNew Yorkonce or twice every year. It may be looked upon as a parliament or dyet in miniature. Every thing relating to the good of the province is here debated. The governor calls the assembly, and dissolves it at pleasure: this is a power which he ought only to make use of, either when no farther debates are[260]necessary, or when the members are not so unanimous in the service of their king and country as is their duty: it frequently however happens, that, led aside by caprice or by interested views, he exerts it to the prejudice of the province. The colony has sometimes had a governor, whose quarrels with the inhabitants, have induced their representatives, or the members of the assembly, through a spirit of revenge, to oppose indifferently every thing he proposed, whether it was beneficial to the country or not. In such cases the governor has made use of his power; dissolving the assembly, and calling another soon after, which however he again dissolved upon the least mark of their ill humour. By this means he so much tired them, by the many expences which they were forced to bear in so short a time, that they were at last glad to unite with him, in his endeavours for the good of the province. But there have likewise been governors who have called assemblies and dissolved them soon after, merely because the representatives did not act according to their whims, or would not give their assent to proposals which were perhaps dangerous or hurtful to the common welfare.

The king appoints the governor according[261]to his royal pleasure; but the inhabitants of the province make up his excellency’s salary. Therefore a man entrusted with this place has greater or lesser revenues, according as he knows how to gain the confidence of the inhabitants. There are examples of governors in this, and other provinces ofNorth America, who by their dissensions with the inhabitants of their respective governments, have lost their whole salary, his Majesty having no power to make them pay it. If a governor had no other resource in these circumstances, he would be obliged either to resign his office, or to be content with an income too small for his dignity; or else to conform himself in every thing to the inclinations of the inhabitants: but there are several stated profits, which in some measure make up for this. 1. No one is allowed to keep a public house without the governor’s leave; which is only to be obtained by the payment of a certain fee, according to the circumstances of the person. Some governors therefore, when the inhabitants refused to pay them a salary, have hit upon the expedient of doubling the number of inns in their province. 2. Few people who intend to be married, unless they be very poor, will have their banns published from the[262]pulpit; but instead of this they get licences from the governor, which impower any minister to marry them. Now for such a licence the governor receives about half a guinea, and this collected throughout the whole province, amounts to a considerable sum. 3. The governor signs all passports, and especially of such as go to sea; and this gives him another means of supplying his expences. There are several other advantages allowed to him, but as they are very trifling, I shall omit them.

At the above assembly the old laws are reviewed and amended, and new ones are made: and the regulation and circulation of coin, together with all other affairs of that kind are there determined. For it is to be observed that eachEnglishcolony inNorth Americais independent of the other, and that each has its proper laws and coin, and may be looked upon in several lights, as a state by itself. From hence it happens, that in time of war, things go on very slowly and irregularly here: for not only the sense of one province is sometimes directly opposite to that of another; but frequently the views of the governor, and those of the assembly of the same province, are quite different: so that it is easy to see, that, while the people are quarrelling about[263]the best and cheapest manner of carrying on the war, an enemy has it in his power to take one place after another. It has commonly happened that whilst some provinces have been suffering from their enemies, the neighbouring ones were quiet and inactive, and as if it did not in the least concern them. They have frequently taken up two or three years in considering whether they should give assistance to an oppressed sister colony, and sometimes they have expresly declared themselves against it. There are instances of provinces who were not only neuter in these circumstances, but who even carried on a great trade with the power which at that very time was attacking and laying waste some other provinces.

TheFrenchinCanada, who are but an inconsiderable body, in comparison with theEnglishinAmerica, have by this position of affairs been able to obtain great Advantages in times of war; for if we judge from the number and power of theEnglish, it would seem very easy for them to get the better of theFrenchinAmerica.41[264]

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