Fromthe Bank of the RiverHalys, which theTurkscallAitoczu, we came toGonkurthoy; from thence toChoron, and from thence toTheke Thioi, where theTurkshave a stately Monastry for theirPriestsandMonks, calledDervises. ThoseDervisestold us a great Story of a certain Man, calledChederles, of an huge Stature, and graveness ofMind answerable thereto. They suppose it was the same with our St.George, and ascribe the same Exploits to him; as the saving of a Virgin by the Slaughter of a huge and terribleDragon. To which they add many Fables and Imaginations of idle Brains; as that he travelled over several Countries far and near, and at last came to a River, whose Waters made those that drank them immortal; but in what Part of the World this River is, they cannot tell us; they say, moreover, that it lies somewhere in a great Cloud, or Mist of Darkness, and that never a Man saw it sinceChederles. As forChederleshimself, he was made Immortal, and so was his Horse, by drinking the same Water, who now, both do invisibly travel over the World, delighting in Wars, and appearing therein to the most Valiant, or to those who implore his Aid, of what Religion soever they be: Such ridiculous Fancies do they please themselves with! To which we may add, other Things as absurd as those before-mentioned, That he was one of the Friends and Companions ofAlexander the Great. For, the Truth is, theTurkskeep no just Account either of Times or Ages, but makes a confused Hodge-podge of all History. When they have a Mind to it, they scruple not to say,ThatJobwas Master of the Horse to KingSolomon, and thatAlexander the Greatwas General of his Army; with such-like Stuff.
Inthat Monastry, or Mosque, there is a Fountain that bubbles forth very clear and limpid Water; it is built about and cover’d with most excellent Marble, and they ridiculously would have People believe, that it had its Original fromChederles’s Horses, which he pissed in great Plenty in that Place. They also told us manyRodomontado’s concerning the Companions ofChederles, concerning his chiefGroom, and also concerning his Nephew by his Sister, all which were buried near at hand, and their Sepulchres there to be seen; and when any Suppliants come to pay their Devotions to them, they would have persuaded us, that they receive great Relief thereby; yea, they superstitiously affirm, That the Fragments of the Stones, and the very Earth itself, on whichChederles’s Feet stood, when he staid for the Dragon, if drank in any Liquor, are very good against Fevers, the Head-Ach, and the Diseases of the Eyes. All the Country thereabout, is full of Dragons and Vipers, so that, in the hot Season of the Year, they are so thick, basking themselves in the Sun, that the Ways are almost unpassable for Travellers.
Ihad almost forgot to tell you, that, whereas, theGreeksdo usually paint St.Georgeon Horseback in their Temples, with his Squire behind him, holding out to him a Cup of Wine as to his Master, he being (as they believe) theirChederles; they laugh heartily at that Spectacle.
Atthis Place, we were near our Journey’s End, for now we had but one Stage more toAmasia; and that wasBaglison; from thence we reachedAmasia,April 7, and thirty Days after, we leftConstantinople. As we were coming, someTurksmet us, to gratulate our Arrival, and to introduce us with Honour.
Amasiais, in a manner, the chief City ofCappadocia, where theTurkishGovernor of that Province usually had his Residence, for the Administration of Justice, and where he usually forms his Camp. But that Town, ever sinceBajazet’s Time, seemed to be very unlucky, and of late, the miserable Case ofMustaphahath confirmed it to be an unfortunate Seat.Strabowrites, that he was born there. It lies on the Side of two oppositeHills, the RiverIrisdividing the City of the midst, running between them; so that from each Part you may look down upon the River, as from the Seats or Stairs of a Theatre; and one Side of it is conspicuous and open to the view of the other. It is so encompassed with Hills, that there is but one way to it, either for Coach or Waggon.
Thesame Night we came thither, there happened a great Fire, which theJanizariesquenched, as their manner is, by plucking down the Houses adjoining. Upon occasion of this Accident, give me leave to inform you, that theTurkishSoldiers are well-pleased when a Fire happens; for, whereas they must be employed to quench it, and usually do it by ruining the contiguous Houses, they have thereby an opportunity to rifle and plunder both; so that they themselves do oftentimes privily set Houses on Fire, that so they may filch and steal what they can out of them; as I remember once, when I was atConstantinople, there were frequent Conflagrations of Houses. ’Twas plain, they could not happen casually, but must be set on Fire a purpose, and yet the Authors could not be found; but the Fault was commonly cast on somePersianSpies that were in Town: At last, upon a diligent Search, ’twas found that the Soldiers had stirr’d up their Fellows, that were a Ship-board, to do the Feat; that so, during the Fire, they might enrich themselves with the Spoils.
Uponan high Hill, that hangs over and commandsAmasia, there is a strong Castle, wherein theTurkshave a continual Garrison, either to curb theAsiaticks, who are not very well pleased with theOttomanYoke (as I shall shew anon) or else to bridle thePersian, who many times make large Excursions even as far as this Town, though at such a vast distance from them. In this Hill there aresome ancient Monuments, which, perhaps, were the Sepulchres of theCappadocianKings.
Asfor the Houses and Streets ofAmasia, there is little or no Beauty in them. Their Houses are built of Loom, as they are inSpain, plain at top without any Roof, and what covering they have is of Loom or Clay too. They have some old piece of a Pillar, Cylinder or Roller, which they turn up and down to stop any Chink or Crevice, made either by Rain or Wind. The Inhabitants, in former Times, lay down to sleep in the open Air. As for Rains, they are not great, nor frequent in those Parts; but if at any time a Shower falls, the Loomy Droppings from the Eaves, do wofully dirty the Cloths of those that pass under them. I saw there a certain young noble Person, living not far from me, at his Supper, after the oldRomanfashion, lying on a Bed. As soon as I came toAmasia, we were introduced to compliment the supreme VizierAchmet, and the rest of theBashaw’s, for their Emperor was then gone abroad; we treated with them a while concerning the Contents of our Embassy; and because they would not seem to prejudice us, they lent us a favourable Ear; referring all, however, to the Will and Pleasure of their Emperor. When he came home, we were led into his Presence, for Audience; but he entertain’d us (and the Reasons we alledg’d in the Speech we made him, according to the Command of my Master) with a sour and frowning Look. He sate upon a low Throne, not above a Foot from the Ground, but it was all covered over with rich Tapestry, and with Cushions exquisitely wrought. His Bow and Arrows lay by his side, he himself (as I said) looked sternly upon us; and yet there was a certain Majesty, mix’d with Severity, in his Countenance. Each of us, as we entred the Room, was led up towardshim by some of his Bed-chamber Officers, who held us by the Arm, (for so they use to introduce Ambassadors, ever since a certainCroatian, desiring to speak withAmurath, and drawing near to him so to do, slew him in revenge of the death of his Master,MarktheDespotofServia, who was killed by the saidAmurath): and afterwards, as if we had kiss’d his Hand, we were led backward to the opposite part of the Room; for theTurkscount it an unmannerly thing to turn any of their Back-parts to their Prince. From thence I had liberty to declare our Master’s Commands; but they suited not with his lofty, imperious Spirit, who thought that nothing ought to be denied him, for they were daring and high; so that he, as disdaining them, said nothing butGiusel, Giusel!(i. e.)Well, Well!And so we were dismissed to our Lodgings.
Atour Audience there was a very full Court, for a great many Governors of Provinces were there with their Presents; and, besides the Imperial Horse,Spahi’s,JanipagitsandUlulags, there were also a great number ofJanizaries. But, among this vast number of Courtiers, there was not so much as one more eminent for Birth and Parentage; each one, by his Valour and adventurous Atchievements, was the Carver out of his own Fortune. Their Honour ariseth from their Preferments; so that there is no dispute about Precedency, but every Man’s Pre-eminces is according to the Office which he bears. And those Offices are distributed at the meer Will and Pleasure of the Prince, who does not regard the empty Name of Nobility, nor value a Rush the Favour of the Multitude, or of any other particular Man; but, considering only the Merits and Disposition of the Man, he rewards him accordingly. And, by that means, Employmentsare bestowed upon such Persons as are best able to manage them; and every Man hath an opportunity to be the Hammerer out of his own Honour and Preferment. Those which at present are the greatest Officers under their Emperor, were mostly the Sons of Shepherds or Neatherds; and they are so far from being ashamed of the Meanness of their Original, that they glory therein among one another; and account it more Praise-worthy to be the Advancers of themselves, than if they had Honour transmitted down to them from their Ancestors.
Forthus they argue, Virtue is not propagated from our Parents, but is partly the Gift of God, and partly acquired by good Discipline, and by our own Labour and Industry; so that, as no Son hath his Father’s Skill in Music, Arithmetic or Geometry, derived to him from his Birth, so neither can Fathers bequeath Virtue as an Inheritance to their Children; for the Soul, say they, is not communicated with the Father’s Seed (so that a Son must necessarily be born alike qualified as his Father was) but it is infus’d into his Body from the God of Heaven. Thus in that Nation, Dignities, Honours, Offices,&c.are the Rewards of Virtue and Merit; as on the other side, Dishonesty, Sloth, and Idleness, are among them the most despicable things in the whole World. And by this means they flourish, bear sway, and enlarge the Bounds of their Empire every day more and more. But we,Christians, to our shame be it spoken, live at another manner of rate; Virtue is little esteemed among us, but Nobleness of Birth (forsooth) carries away all the Honour and Preferment. But enough of this at present: More may be spoken on this Argument hereafter; and what I have now said about it, pray keep it to your self, for other Men may not be able to bear my Freedom herein.
Toreturn, then, to my Subject; I shall now present you with a surprizing Spectacle, even a multitude of Persons with picket Turbants on their Heads, made of pure white Linnen folded together in Plates; their other Apparel was very costly, of several Sorts and Colours, all most radiantly shining with Gold, Silver, Purple, Silk, Velvet,&c.I am not able to describe the Gaudiness of theShow; in one Word, ’twas the most glorious one I ever saw in all my Life. And yet, in all this Splendor, there was a great deal of Simplicity and Parsimony too. Those who were of one Order had Cloathing all of one sort; there were no foolish Hems, Lacings, Fringes or Borders, as among us, which cost a great deal of Money, and yet wear out in a day or two. The Silk and Velvet Suits, which many of them wore, though mightily embroidered, yet cost not above a Ducat the making and embroidering. They did as much admire to see the Fashion of our Cloaths, as we did that of theirs. Their Vests are very long, almost down to their Heels, which is more graceful, and makes them seem taller than they are; but our Apparel (forsooth) is so curtail’d and short, that it hardly covers the Parts which Nature would have to be concealed; on which Account it is less decent. Besides, it seems to take away some Inches from the Tallness of our Stature, and look moreDwarf-like. And yet, among so great a Multitude, I took notice of this most laudable Circumstance; ’twas allhush; not so much as a word spoken among them all, nor no humming Noise, as among a tumultuous Multitude; no justling one of another, but every particular Man quietly kept his own Station. The Heads of them, which they callAga’s, had Seats to sit upon, such as theirSerasquiers, orGenerals, theirBrigadiers,ColonelsandCaptains; but the Commonalty stood on their Feet. Among the rest, Imost admir’d theJanizaries; though there were some Thousands of them, yet they stood at a distance one from another; Stock-still, (as we say) as if they had been Statues: So that I, who was at some distance from them, thought verily they had been so, till being advised to salute them, as the manner is, I saw them all bow their Heads, by way of Resalutation, unto me. When we passed from this Shew, behold there was another pleasurable one, which entertain’d us; and that was their Horse-Guards, in their March to their Quarters. They rode upon gallant stately Prancers, excellently well trapped, equipped, and Shod. Thus we were dismissed, but with little hopes of obtaining what we came for.
Onthe 10th ofMay, thePersianAmbassador came toAmasia, and brought with him rich and gallant Presents, as many choice sorts of Hangings,BabylonianTents, curiously wrought within with many sorts of Needle-work, gallant Horse-Trappings, and Saddles, Scymiters made atDamascus, whose Handles were studded with Jewels, and Shields of curious Workmanship; but that which exceeded them all, was theAlcoran, so they call the Book containing the Rites and Ceremonies of their Religion, which they fancyMahometcompos’d by Divine Inspiration, and which is accounted the most noble Present of all. They quickly accorded with him on Terms of Peace, so that it concern’d us to be cautious, who were to find greater obstruction in our Negotiations with them. And, to assure us that the Peace was confirm’d betwixt them, they omitted no manner of extraordinary Respect to their Ambassador. For the manner of theTurksis, (as I told you before,) to be excessive on both Sides, either in bestowing Honour on their Friends, or in heaping Reproaches on theirEnemies.Haly Basha, Deputy to theGrand Vizier, treated thePersianwith a sumptuous Dinner, which he made in his Garden, a Place far distant from us, and separated also by the interposal of the River, yet we could see the Manner of it well enough; for, I told you, the Place was seated so high on both sides of the Hill, that the Eye might easily discover what was done on each side. ThisHalyis aDalmatianby Birth, a Man of much Wit, and, which is strange inTurkey, very courteous to Strangers. The Table, at which theBashawand thePersianEmbassador sate, was covered over with a Canopy, and the Dishes were served up after this manner. There were one hundred Youths, which attended, like Waiters, all of them alike habited. First of all, they entered one by one, at a small distance from each other, till the Train of them reached up to the Table where the Guests were sitting. They had nothing at all in their Hands, that so they might not be hindered in saluting the Guests, which was done in this manner; they laid their Hands on their Thighs, and bowed their Heads downwards to the Ground; when this Ceremony was perform’d, then he that stood next the Kitchen, took a Dish and gave it to the next Page immediately before him; he handed it to a Third, and he to a Fourth, and so from one to another till it came to him who stood next the Table, and he delivered it to the Hands of the Gentleman-Sewer, who plac’d it on the Table. And thus one hundred Dishes, or more, were serv’d up to the Table in excellent Order, without any Noise at all; and, when that was done, those Waiters, or Pages, saluted the Guests a second time, and so returned in the same Order they came in; only, of course, those that were last before went out first, and those which were nearestthe Table brought up the Rear. Thus the second Course was also serv’d up; so that theTurksare great Admirers of Orders, even in the smallest matters, which weChristiansare apt to neglect, even in things of greatest Moment. At some distant from the Ambassador sate his Attendants with someTurksof Quality with them.
Peacebeing thus made with thePersians, as I told you before, yet we could get no good Terms of them at all, only we obtain’d an half year’s Truce, till I could send to my Master, and know his Answer. I was sent to beLeigerAmbassador there; but, in regard there was no Peace settl’d betwixt both Empires, theBashawsthought it adviseable for me to return to my Master with Letters fromSolymantheir Emperor; and I was to return with an Answer from his Imperial Majesty, if he thought fit. Hereupon I was again introduced intoSolyman’s Presence, and had two large embroider’d Veils, reaching down to my Ancles, clap’d upon me; they were so heavy, that I could hardly stand under them. My Family also, that attended me, were all clad with silk Garments of divers Colours; in this Posture I stalked along, likeAgamemnon, or some such piece of Gravity, in aTragedy; and so I took my leave of their Emperor, having first receiv’d Letters from him to my Master, seal’d and wrap’d up in Cloth of Gold, and the chief of my Attendants were also admitted to take their Leaves; and thus, after we had taken our leaves of theBashaws, I and my Collegues departed fromAmasia,Junethe 2d. The Custom is, that Ambassadors at their Departure, have a Dinner provided for them in theDivan, (so they call the place where theBashawssit to administer Justice,) but this is done only to their Friends; that Complimentwas omitted to me, because Affairs were not yet in an amicable Posture between them and us.
Ifyou ask me, what manner of ManSolymanwas, I’ll tell you. He was an ancient Man, his Countenance, and the Mien of his Body, were very majestick, well becoming the Dignity which he bore; he was frugal and temperate, even from his Youth, though he might have taken a greater Liberty to himself by the Rules of their own Religion. In his younger Days he was not given to Wine, nor to masculine Venery, which theTurksmuch delight in; to that his very Enemies could object nothing against him on those Accounts, but that he was too uxurious, and his over-indulgence to his Wife made him give way to the Death of his SonMustapha: Yet that Crime was vulgarly imputed to an Ascendent she had over him, by reason of her Inchantments and Love-Portions. This is certain, that, after he once took her for his lawful Wife, he never had carnal Knowledge of any other Woman, though their Laws did not forbid him. He is a very strict Observer of theMahumetanReligion, and is as desirous to propagate that, as to enlarge the Bounds of his Empire.
Heis now sixty years of Age; and, for a Man of his Years, he enjoys a moderate proportion of Health, and yet his Countenance doth discover, that he carries about him some hidden Disease, ’tis thought a Gangrene, or Ulcer, in the Thigh; yet at solemn Audiences of Ambassadors, he hath aFucusto paint his Cheeks with, that he may appear sound and healthy to them, and thereupon be more dreaded by foreign Princes, their Masters. Methought, I discovered some such thing at my Dismission; for his Countenance was as sour when I left him, as it was at my first Audience.
Havingthus taken my leave, I began my Journey in the Month ofJune, and the Heat thereof was so excessive, that it cast me into a Fever. ’Tis true, it was a remiss and gentle one, yet it came every Day; to which was added an Hoarseness, and Defluction of Rheum from the Head, and it held me till I came toConstantinople.
ThePersianEmbassador leftAmasiathe self-same Day that I did, and we went both out of the City the same way; for, (as I told you before) there is but one Passage into, or out of, that Town, it is so shut in by the circumjacent and unpassable Hills: But the Way quickly doth divide into two, one to theEast, which thePersianstook; and another to theWest. which was our Road. In the open Fields about the Town, we saw theTurkishCamp pitch’d, with abundance of Tents. I shall not entertain you with the Stages of my Return, they being the same with those of my Journey thither, only we made a little more Speed, and sometimes rode two Day’s Journey in one. In fine, we came toConstantinople,Junethe 2d. You must needs think I had a troublesome Journey of it, having such a Companion with me, as aQuotidian Ague, all the way; so that, when I came thither, I was almost nothing but Skin and Bone: Yet, lean as I was, when I came to rest, and by the advice ofQuaquelben, my Physician, used warm Baths, I quickly recovered. One thing I observed in the method of my Cure, that, when I came out of the warm Bath, he would sprinkle me over with cold Water, which, though it were troublesome to me at the present, yet I found that it did me much good.
WhilstI staid atConstantinople, there was a certain Person, that came from theTurkishCamp inAsia, who told me a Story, which I shall acquaint you with, because it shows that theAsiaticksarenot very well pleased, either with the Religion, or the Government of theTurks. ’Twas this:Solyman, says he, as he was returning home, was forc’d to lodge one Night in the House of a certainAsiatick, and when he went away in the Morning, his Host brought a great deal of Perfume, and us’d a great many Ceremonies, to cleanse and purge his House, as if it had been polluted by such a Guest asSolyman; whenSolymanheard of it, he caused the Man to be slain, and his House to be levelled with the Ground. This Punishment the poor Man underwent for his Aversion to theTurks, and his Propensity to favour thePersians.
Istaid about fourteen Days atConstantinopleto refresh my self, and then I entred on my Journey back again toVienna: But I was entertain’d with an inauspicious Omen, even a very sad Spectacle; just as I was gone out of the Gates ofConstantinople, I met whole Waggon-Loads of Boys and Girls, which were brought out ofHungarytoConstantinopleto be sold; no Merchandize is more frequent amongst them than that. For, as when we leaveAntwerp, we meet with all sorts of merchantable Commodities importing into the Town, so here, ever now and then, there passed by us abundance of poor miserableChristianSlaves, which were going to be sold in the Markets to a perpetual Bondage. There was no distinction of Age; Old and Young were driven in Herds, or Companies, or else were tied in a long Chain, as we use to tail Horses when we carry them to Fairs. When I beheld this woful sight, I could not forbear weeping and bemoaning the unhappy State of poorChristendom. And if that miserable Spectacle were not afflicting enough to a new Traveller, take another bad and mortifying Occurrence: My Collegueshad recommended some of their Retinue to me, which were weary of living inTurkey, that they might be of my Train, in returning to their own Country. I granted their Request, and having travelled two Day’s Journey, I perceiv’d one that was Chief among them, (called aVaivode, from his Office,) was carried sick in a Coach; one of his Feet being bare, without any Stockings, he would not suffer it to be covered, for he had in it a Plague-sore, which he found more easy to keep open. We were much troubled at this sight, as fearing that infectious Disease would spread farther; but the poor Man liv’d till we came toAdrianople, and there departed this Life. Upon his Death another Mischief did succeed; as soon as the Breath was out of his Body, the rest of theHungariansran in greedily to the Prey, one caught up his Stockings, another his Doublet, a third his Shirt, a fourth his other Linnen; thus casting themselves, and us too, into a great deal of Danger. Nor was there any way in the World to hinder them.
’Tistrue, my Physician, like an honest Man, ran in amongst them, and intreated them, for God’s sake, to throw the Things away, because they would infect us all; but they were deaf to his Advice. The Day after we leftAdrianople, those very Persons came to him, and complain’d of a Pain in their Heads, with a dejection of their Spirits, and a Listlessness both of Body and Mind, and desired his Advice; he, suspecting the Symptoms of the Plague in the case, told them, they were well enough serv’d, for not harkening to his Counsel; yet he would do them what good he could, only, being on his Journey, he was unprovided of proper Medicines. The same Day I walked abroad into the Field, as I us’d to do, as soon as ever I came to my Inn, to see if I could find any thingworthy of my Notice in those Countries, where I met with an unknown Herb in the Meadow, which smelt likeGarlick. After I had pluck’d some Leaves of it, I gave them to my Physician to know his Judgment; he looked wistly upon it, and told me, ’twasScordium, and lifting up his Hands to Heaven, he gave God thanks for sending us so opportune a Remedy against the Plague; hereupon he gathers a great quantity of it, and putting it into a large Pot, boiled it over the Fire. Then he bid theHungarianstake heart, and parted the Decoction amongst them, prescribing the taking of it very hot, as they were going to Bed, mix’d with someLemnianEarth, andDiascordium, and that they should not sleep till they had fallen into a great Sweat. Observing his Directions, the next Day after they were much better, and desired the same Portion again, and when they had drunk it, they grew perfectly well. And thus, by God’s Blessing, we avoided that Infection.
Andyet, the residue of our Journey was not without Peril. After we had passed the Country of theThraciansandBulgarians, which reaches as far asNissa, and came into theServiansCountry, reaching fromNissatoSimandria, where theRasciansCountry begins; we came at last toBelgrade, the Weather being excessively hot and parching, for ’twas the hottest time of theDog-days.
AtBelgrade, upon one of our Fish-days, we were presented with abundance of choice Fish, and amongst the rest, with large full-bodiedCarps, taken in theDanube, whoseCarpsare very much commended: My People did eat very greedily of them, and that was either the cause, or the occasion, which cast many of them into a Fever; yet all that quantity of Fish, which was enough to satisfy fortyMen, cost but half a Dollar; and the Truth is, other Things are as cheap. As for Hay, ’tis little or nothing worth; the Meadows are so laden with it, that every Man may take what he will, provided he pay for the Mowing and Carriage; which made us admire the Wisdom of the oldHungarians, after they had passed theSave, who chose so fertile a Country, asHungary, to dwell in; where there were all manner of Conveniences for Human Life. We passed over a great Tract of Land, both beyond and on this side theSave, and we found the Grass, Barley, Oats and Wheat, almost parch’d and withered with Drought; but as soon as we entredHungary, the Grass was so tall, that a Coach, that went before, could hardly be seen by another that came after; which is a great Argument of the goodness of the Soil.
TheRascians, as I told you before, begin atSimandria, and reach as far as the RiverDrave; they are reputed to be a fudling sort of People, and not very faithful to Strangers. Whence they had their Name and Original, I do not certainly know; but truly they were kind enough to us; we passed through some Villages of theirs of less Note, and at last arrived atEsseck, which is almost inclosed with muddy Marshes, and is famous for the slaughter ofCatzianerus, and the overthrow of theChristians. Here I was taken with aTertian Ague, I was so parch’d with Heat, in travelling the open Fields ofHungary; and atEsseckwe passed theDrave, and came toLasque, where being weary with the Heat of my Journey, and my Ague, I laid me down to Rest. There the chiefest of the Place came to me to bid me welcome; and presented me with large Melons, Pears, and Plumbs of several Sorts, besides Wine, and other Provisions, all of them very good; the noted Country ofCampaniainItalyhardly bears better. In the Room where I lodged, there was a long Table all furnished with these Viands: My Servants desired theHungariansto stay to Supper, excusing my Absence, because of my Sickness. As soon as I awoke, and saw such a full-spread Table before my Eyes, I thought verily I had been in a Dream, and ask’d my Physician, how that came about? He told me plainly, that he himself had caused the Table to be furnished, that so the very Sight of it might refresh me. But must I not taste of it, said I? Yes, said he, but you must only taste; and so I eat a little of it, and seem’d to be much the better for it. The Day after theHungarianscame to me again to present their Service, desiring me to represent their Condition to the Emperor, in regard of the Wrongs they received from some of their Neighbours. From thence we came toMohatz, noted for the Overthrow and Death ofLewisKing ofHungary; not far from that Town, I saw a River whose Water was deep, and its Banks very steep; here that unhappy Prince leapt in with his Horse, and was drown’d, being for his Fall as much to be lamented, as for his Imprudence, in venturing with a small and newly rais’d Army of his Country-Men, to cope with the more numerous, veteran, and well-disciplin’d Forces ofSolyman.
FromMohatz, we travelled on toTulna, and from thence toFelduar. There I passed over theDanube, into an Island, pretty large, calledCophis, inhabited byRascians; and so repassing theDanube, I arrived atBudatwelve Days after I leftBelgrade,Augustthe 4th, having lost many of my Horses by the way, who were choaked with eating new Barley, and drinking over-cold Water. Besides, I narrowly escaped Robbers, which these Countries are much infested with, especially bythose they callHeydukes, some of which were afterwards taken, and put to death atBuda, where they confessed to theBashawthereof, that they lay in wait for me and my Train, under a broken Bridge we were to pass, that so they might assault us unawares. The Truth is, a few may very easily circumvent and destroy a great many Passengers on such Bridges; for the Bridges are ill-built, and the Planks are set so wide, and gaping one from another, that you can scarce go over them safe on Horseback, without danger of falling, if you are never so careful; and if some meet you before, others will fall on your Rear, and others start out from the Reeds and Sedges below, where they hide themselves, and so accost you in the Flank, and you can hardly manage your Horse for Self-defence, by reason of the badness of the Bridge: No doubt you may be treated as theRomanswere in theCaudine Streights; be either taken, or killed, at Pleasure. I know not what it was that deterred them from assaulting us; whether it were our Numbers, or the Sight of theHungarianswith us; or because we were in a long Train, and all were not on the Bridge at once; or whatever else it was that withheld them, by God’s Blessing, we got safe toBuda. TheBashawof the Town was not then at home; he was gone toPest, on the other side of the River, where they had a Council of War, after the manner of theHungarians, they call themRachi. ManySanziackswere already come thither, but more were expected; for which Cause, when I desired Audience, ’twas put off for three Days, that theJanizariesand military Persons might make a greater Show. Then I was sent for over, and conveyed to his Tent, where he made Complaints to me of the Injuries that someHungarianshad done him. It is usual, in those frontier Garrisons,both forHungariansandTurks, mutually to complain of one another; yea, sometimes they, that are most in Fault, begin to complain first. TheTurkishBashaw also added some threatning Expressions of Revenge. It may be, he thought that the Sight of his Army would terrify me; but he was mistaken. I answered him roundly, that theHungariansmight rather find Fault with theTurks, than on the contrary; for I my self, in my Travels, had seen some of his Soldiers plunder someHungarians, Subjects of his Imperial Majesty, and carry away their Goods. He answered me, he had indeed put some contumaciousChristiansunder military Execution; but they were such as were under his Master, not the Emperor. Thus, after a mutual Altercation, I was dismissed, being in very bad plight, for my Ague-Fit was strong upon me all that Day.
TheDay after, I went toGran, having aTurkishGuard of Horse along with me. I had a mind to be wafted over theDanube, and for one Night to lodge in a Village over against the Castle ofGran, that the Day after I might come the sooner toCommara, and be better able to endure my Ague-Fit, which I expected that Day; and therefore I entreated that Favour of my Guide, that he would send some body over, to bring the Ferry-Boat, that was on the other Side, that so our Passage might be the easier. I found some Difficulty in having my Request granted; yet, partly to gratify me, and partly to acquaint theSanziackswith my Arrival there, he sent over two Persons. When they were gone an Hour before, they spied four Horsemen standing under a Tree, a little from the High-way-side. They judged them, by their Habits, to beTurks, and therefore turned aside to accost them; and, as they drew near, they ask’dthem, What News? They answered not a Word; but made at them with their drawn Swords, and gave one of them such a Blow, athwart his Face, that he made the greatest Part of his Nose to hang down over his Chin; and then catching at his Horse, which he held by the Bridle, he left his own Beast, and mounting it, set Spurs, and away. TheTurkspresently came back to us, especially he with the maim’d Face, and, with a woful Lamentation, bid us prepare for the Combat, for we were Way-laid. I, to encourage my Men, got presently on Horse-back; but we came too late, when the Scuffle was over; for they had more mind to preserve the Prey they had got, than to fight; and thereupon fled speedily toJavarin, a Garrison of ours, to which they did belong: TheTurksshewed them to us, as they were scouring over the neighbouring Hills that led toJavarin. Thus we came toGran; theSanziackvery friendly gave me a Visit, and, among other Discourse, he put me in mind of the Insolency of theHungarianSoldiers, who could not be kept from Thieving (said he) though you, the Emperor’s Ambassador, were in company of those they robbed; and therefore he desired of me, that the Horse they took away yesterday might be restored. In the mean Time, theTurk, that was wounded the Day before, stood without in the Entry, with his Nose sewed together, through which he made a lamentable Moan, desiring me to pity his Condition. I told him, I would give him what was enough for his Cure, and so I bestowed two Duckets upon him. He would have had more; but theSanziacktold him, ’twas enough; his Misfortune was not to be charged upon me.
Beingthus dismissed by theSanziack, I came the same Day toCommara, where I expected myAgue-Fit; but when the usual Period of it drew near, I found it had left me, as if a Fever, got inTurkey, durst not accompany me into theChristianTerritories. Hereupon I gave God thanks, who had both freed me of my Ague, and had also brought me safe to the end of my long and tedious Journey.
TwoDays after, I came toVienna, where the EmperorFerdinand, my most gracious Master, was not at present, only I foundMaximilian, King ofBohemia, there in his Room; whole courteous Reception of me made me almost forget the Toil of my Journey. But I must tell you, I was so emaciated with my Sickness, and the Inconveniences of my Journey together, that many thought theTurkshad given me a poisonous Dose; for, truly, when I went lately to pay my Duty to the Arch-DukeFerdinand, he asked one of his Domesticks, who I was? who answered, I was one that came lately fromTurkey, and that it was no wonder I looked so ill, for they, who returned from those Parts, usually did so.
Perhapshe was willing to have it believed, that I had taken the EmperorClaudius’s Dose; but, for my part, I know of no such thing; neither do I question, but after resting a while, to recover the tediousness of my Journey, I shall look as well as ever I did: I find my self something mended already.
Inthe mean time, I acquainted the Emperor with my Return, by Letter, and of the half Year’s Truce I had obtained; and the sum of my whole Negotiation; and that, when he came home from theDiet, I would inform him of all Particulars more punctually and distinctly.
Onething more I shall acquaint you with. There were many Persons who refused to accompany metoConstantinople, either for Fear, or I know not what other Motive, who wished they had given me any Money to go along with me, now they saw me return in safety. But what says he inPlautus?If you will eat the Kernel, you must take the Pains to break the Nut: He does himself Wrong, that thinks to reap part of the Fruit, who took no part of the Pains.
Thus, Sir, I have given you an account of my Journey, both toConstantinople, and also toAmasia. I have not dress’d up my Narrative with Flowers of Rhetoric, but have presented you with it, just as I would have related it to you by Word of Mouth. I know you will bear with the Coarseness of my Style, it being occasioned by my over-eager Desire to gratify you; nor can you well expect Elegancy from me now in my Heat and Throng of Business, which I was never Master of in my greatest Retirements. This I assure you, both for your Information and my own Content, that I am not conscious to myself of any Falshood in the whole Narration, which is the principal Ornament of such Relations as these. Thus I bid you Farewell.
Vienna, September 1st.