ADDITIONAL NOTE.

“Reached Bebec.”—p. 85.

As soon as Lady Hester was comfortably established in her suburban villa, which placed her in the same relation to Constantinople that a house at Putney would to London, Mr. B. projected an excursion to Adrianople, in company with Mr. Frederick Douglas. When they had reached that city, Mr. B. wrote the following lively description of it.

Mr. B. to ——.Adrianople, July 23rd, 1811.My dear ——,You will no doubt be surprised to receive a letter from me dated from this place, but I cannot let slip an opportunity of a ship which takes its departure in a few days from Onos without returning you my most sincere thanks for your very noble and generous conduct to my friend Lord Sligo, and for which, I assure you, he feels most grateful.I left Constantinople about eight days ago, in company with Mr. Douglas, a nephew of Mr. North’s, and whom you have no doubt seen at Malta. We performed the journey in four days and a half, and passed through the towns of Selebrya, Chomlon, and Brurgos, and over a country which bears every appearance of having been desolated by the merciless troops which go and return from the war; very different indeed from the description which is given by Lady Wortley Montague—of fields enamelled with flowers and smiling with plenty. I by no means, however, wish to impeach the veracity of that lady, as a century produces a great change, not only in the manners and customs of a nation, but likewise in the face of a country.The town of Adrianople is beautifully situated in a rich and cultivated plain, which is watered by three rivers. The Marepa (the ancient Hebrus), which takes its rise in the mountains near Philipopoli; the Toungi, whose source is near the Black Sea; and the Lardi. These three rivers join a little below the town, and lose themselves in the sea at Onos. The city is eight miles in circumference, and its population eighty thousand souls—consisting of forty thousand Turks, twenty thousand Greeks, six thousand Armenians, and the same number of Jews. Since the province of Bulgaria has been ravaged by the Turks, many of the poor inhabitants have taken refuge in this place, which has very much increased the number. Like all other Turkish towns, (Turkey in Europe) the houses are built of wood, and the streets are excessively narrow and very badly paved. From a distance, the irregularity of the houses, with the interspersion of trees, and the mosques, with their lofty minarets, produce a very picturesque and fantastic appearance. Adrianople boasts, however, of many magnificent buildings—the mosque built by Selim the Second is a noble structure, and, in my opinion, far surpasses Sophia, Sultan Achmet, or any of the others which I have [seen] at Constantinople. It is, I am told, one of the truest specimens of Turkish architecture. It consists of two courts, surrounded by porticoes, which are supported by large and massive columns of porphyry and verd-antique. The roof is composed of several cupolas—the interior appeared to be spacious and magnificent, and has one prodigious dome. I am unable, however, to give you a minute description, as I was only allowed to have a hasty glance. The Turks do not wish it to be profaned by the eyes of an infidel. Not very distant from Sultan Selim is another mosque, which was formerly the church of the Trinity, and is now called by the Turks “Utchirif,” which, I believe, is nothing more than a translation of the word “Trinity.” It is a very handsome building, but very inferior to the other. There islikewise another mosque, which is near the Hospital for Idiots. We found there many noble columns of porphyry and verd-antique, and likewise a statue of the European Adrian; at least they say so. It is very much trunculated, as it has lost its head and arm. The dress, however, is certainly Roman, and is the one which was generally worn by the Emperor.The English consul, who was my guide, and who is a very worthy and hospitable man, told me a very ridiculous, but, in my opinion, not an untrue story relating to this statue, which at once proves the ignorance and superstition of the Turks. The statue is very near the hospital for idiots. The master of the hospital had a great number of chickens, but, unfortunately, one night, the greater number were stolen. The poor Turk thought that Adrian had devoured them; so, in revenge, he cut off his head, and threw [it] into the river Marepa.Formerly there were many valuable remains of antiquity to be found in this city, but they have been almost all destroyed by the merciless and unrelenting Turks. Many of the columns have been employed in building their houses, but the greater part, I am told, have been buried under the foundation of Sultan Selim. The Turks respect neither the sanctity of religion, nor the genius of man. There are in the town two very fine Besisteens. The largest was built by Ali Pasha, and is of a prodigious length. It consists of three hundred and sixty-five shops, in which every sort of merchandize is exposed for sale. The other, which is called “Arasta,” is smaller, and is more particularly appropriated to the sale of shoes. They are both built of solid masonry, and have a beautiful appearance.Adrianople, as you well know, is celebrated as being the first capital of the Turks in Europe. Mahomet the fourth and Mustapha the first lived here entirely, which occasioned so much jealousy among the Janissaries of Constantinople that they rebelled and deposed those two monarchs. Achmet the third, not dismayed by the fate of his two predecessors, wasvery partial to this city, and continued [to] live here a considerable time. It was here that he received Mr. Wortley Montague, the husband of Lady Mary. There is here an Imperial Palace, which is agreeably situated on an island formed by the river Toungi. It is of considerable extent; but, like all other Turkish buildings, very straggling and irregular. The greater part is going rapidly to decay. The audience-chamber and the throne, under which the Sultan sat when he received the ambassadors of foreign nations, are in a tolerable state of preservation. I have now, my dear general, finished a very long and, no doubt, very tedious description of the city of Adrianople, but you may always make it as short as you please by throwing it into the fire.You have no doubt already heard of the retreat of the Russians and the capture of Ruschuk. The Turks, led on by the new Grand Vizir, attacked the town in seven divisions. They were at first repulsed with considerable slaughter. The Russians, however, finding themselves too weak to defend their position any longer, demolished the works, set fire to the town, and crossed the Danube. Ibrail, Sistof, Sylistria, Necropolis, and the other fortresses which were in their possession, have met with the same fate. Nothing can exceed the cruelties which they have committed. Desolation has marked their footsteps.I must beg pardon for this very long and tedious letter. Mr. Douglas, who is with me, begs me to present you his compliments, and believe me,My dear ——,Your most sincere friend,M.B.

Mr. B. to ——.

Adrianople, July 23rd, 1811.

My dear ——,

You will no doubt be surprised to receive a letter from me dated from this place, but I cannot let slip an opportunity of a ship which takes its departure in a few days from Onos without returning you my most sincere thanks for your very noble and generous conduct to my friend Lord Sligo, and for which, I assure you, he feels most grateful.

I left Constantinople about eight days ago, in company with Mr. Douglas, a nephew of Mr. North’s, and whom you have no doubt seen at Malta. We performed the journey in four days and a half, and passed through the towns of Selebrya, Chomlon, and Brurgos, and over a country which bears every appearance of having been desolated by the merciless troops which go and return from the war; very different indeed from the description which is given by Lady Wortley Montague—of fields enamelled with flowers and smiling with plenty. I by no means, however, wish to impeach the veracity of that lady, as a century produces a great change, not only in the manners and customs of a nation, but likewise in the face of a country.

The town of Adrianople is beautifully situated in a rich and cultivated plain, which is watered by three rivers. The Marepa (the ancient Hebrus), which takes its rise in the mountains near Philipopoli; the Toungi, whose source is near the Black Sea; and the Lardi. These three rivers join a little below the town, and lose themselves in the sea at Onos. The city is eight miles in circumference, and its population eighty thousand souls—consisting of forty thousand Turks, twenty thousand Greeks, six thousand Armenians, and the same number of Jews. Since the province of Bulgaria has been ravaged by the Turks, many of the poor inhabitants have taken refuge in this place, which has very much increased the number. Like all other Turkish towns, (Turkey in Europe) the houses are built of wood, and the streets are excessively narrow and very badly paved. From a distance, the irregularity of the houses, with the interspersion of trees, and the mosques, with their lofty minarets, produce a very picturesque and fantastic appearance. Adrianople boasts, however, of many magnificent buildings—the mosque built by Selim the Second is a noble structure, and, in my opinion, far surpasses Sophia, Sultan Achmet, or any of the others which I have [seen] at Constantinople. It is, I am told, one of the truest specimens of Turkish architecture. It consists of two courts, surrounded by porticoes, which are supported by large and massive columns of porphyry and verd-antique. The roof is composed of several cupolas—the interior appeared to be spacious and magnificent, and has one prodigious dome. I am unable, however, to give you a minute description, as I was only allowed to have a hasty glance. The Turks do not wish it to be profaned by the eyes of an infidel. Not very distant from Sultan Selim is another mosque, which was formerly the church of the Trinity, and is now called by the Turks “Utchirif,” which, I believe, is nothing more than a translation of the word “Trinity.” It is a very handsome building, but very inferior to the other. There islikewise another mosque, which is near the Hospital for Idiots. We found there many noble columns of porphyry and verd-antique, and likewise a statue of the European Adrian; at least they say so. It is very much trunculated, as it has lost its head and arm. The dress, however, is certainly Roman, and is the one which was generally worn by the Emperor.

The English consul, who was my guide, and who is a very worthy and hospitable man, told me a very ridiculous, but, in my opinion, not an untrue story relating to this statue, which at once proves the ignorance and superstition of the Turks. The statue is very near the hospital for idiots. The master of the hospital had a great number of chickens, but, unfortunately, one night, the greater number were stolen. The poor Turk thought that Adrian had devoured them; so, in revenge, he cut off his head, and threw [it] into the river Marepa.

Formerly there were many valuable remains of antiquity to be found in this city, but they have been almost all destroyed by the merciless and unrelenting Turks. Many of the columns have been employed in building their houses, but the greater part, I am told, have been buried under the foundation of Sultan Selim. The Turks respect neither the sanctity of religion, nor the genius of man. There are in the town two very fine Besisteens. The largest was built by Ali Pasha, and is of a prodigious length. It consists of three hundred and sixty-five shops, in which every sort of merchandize is exposed for sale. The other, which is called “Arasta,” is smaller, and is more particularly appropriated to the sale of shoes. They are both built of solid masonry, and have a beautiful appearance.

Adrianople, as you well know, is celebrated as being the first capital of the Turks in Europe. Mahomet the fourth and Mustapha the first lived here entirely, which occasioned so much jealousy among the Janissaries of Constantinople that they rebelled and deposed those two monarchs. Achmet the third, not dismayed by the fate of his two predecessors, wasvery partial to this city, and continued [to] live here a considerable time. It was here that he received Mr. Wortley Montague, the husband of Lady Mary. There is here an Imperial Palace, which is agreeably situated on an island formed by the river Toungi. It is of considerable extent; but, like all other Turkish buildings, very straggling and irregular. The greater part is going rapidly to decay. The audience-chamber and the throne, under which the Sultan sat when he received the ambassadors of foreign nations, are in a tolerable state of preservation. I have now, my dear general, finished a very long and, no doubt, very tedious description of the city of Adrianople, but you may always make it as short as you please by throwing it into the fire.

You have no doubt already heard of the retreat of the Russians and the capture of Ruschuk. The Turks, led on by the new Grand Vizir, attacked the town in seven divisions. They were at first repulsed with considerable slaughter. The Russians, however, finding themselves too weak to defend their position any longer, demolished the works, set fire to the town, and crossed the Danube. Ibrail, Sistof, Sylistria, Necropolis, and the other fortresses which were in their possession, have met with the same fate. Nothing can exceed the cruelties which they have committed. Desolation has marked their footsteps.

I must beg pardon for this very long and tedious letter. Mr. Douglas, who is with me, begs me to present you his compliments, and believe me,

My dear ——,

Your most sincere friend,

M.B.

END OF VOL. I.

Frederick Shoberl, Junior, Printer to His Royal Highness Prince Albert,51, Rupert Street, Haymarket, London.

FOOTNOTES:[1]These were principally the death of Mr. Pitt, her uncle, with whom she had resided for several years, and of her half-brother, the Hon. Charles Stanhope, who was killed at the battle of Corunna.[2]Mr. Michael Bruce will be known to most readers as the gentleman, who, conjointly with Lieutenant-General Sir Robert Wilson and the Hon. Mr. Hutchinson, effected the escape of Lavallette from prison on the eve of his execution.[3]Captain Whitby was distinguished by his active service in the war of America, and, subsequently, by his gallant conduct in a severe naval engagement up the Adriatic.[4]As we say Furnival’s Inn, Lincoln’s Inn, &c.[5]The advantage of these stone walls and floors was exemplified in an accident which occurred whilst I was at La Valetta. I was attending, professionally, on Viscount Ebrington, the present Earl Fortescue, who was indisposed in bed, when his servant, in holding the candle, set fire to the musquito net. His lordship jumped out of bed, and the net blazed and was consumed, without any other apprehension for the result than the personal inconvenience and danger caused to a sick man by sudden exposure to cold.[6]Afterwards Sir Hildebrand Oakes.[7]Now Dr. Fiott Lee, of Hartwell.[8]Lord Sligo spent two days with his Highness, who manifested the pleasure he experienced in the visit, as well by splendid presents, as by the manner in which he treated his lordship. At one dinner eighty dishes were served up for his Highness and the marquis only. He sent a polite message to Lady Hester to express his regret that he should not see her, as he had been called by the Porte to the army, then marching against Russia.[9]A long mantle used to hide the person out of doors.[10]The Lawsonia, Lin.[11]Lasso papavera collo.[12]Mr. Galt, the novelist.[13]Now Sir Stratford Canning.[14]M. de Maubourg, chargé d’affaires at Constantinople.[15]Cherries sold at a farthing per pound, and walnuts in the season, I was told, at ninepence per bushel.[16]Now Hydrographer to the Admiralty.[17]Things are much changed since that time.[18]For her turban and girdle she bought two handsome cashmere shawls, each at £50. Her pantaloons, most richly embroidered in gold, cost £40; her waistcoat and her pelisse £50; her sabre £20; her saddle £35. Other articles necessary for the completion of the costume amounted to £100 more. Mr. B.’s dress was equally expensive; his sword more so, as he purchased it at 1000 piasters, at the exchange of 21, making about £50.[19]A Mameluke saddle and bridle alone, without the rider, pistol, gun, or sword, weigh 17 rotolos, 3 oz., equal to 43½ lbs. English. A Turkish saddle and bridle, with the rider’s carbine, pistols, sabre, cartouch-box, brogues, and cloak, weigh about 53 lbs. English. A common Turkish saddle weighs 34 lbs. English.[20]That the learned reader, however, may not be deprived of a description of this kind of dancing, which was so much talked about during the trial of Caroline, the queen of George IV., we will insert that which is given by Emanuel Martin to his friend J. A. Not recollecting whence this extract was made, I am unable to say precisely who Martin and his friend were, but will vouch for the correctness of the delineation, which is quite graphic. “Nôsti saltationem illam Gaditanam, obscenitate suâ per omne œvum famosam: atqui ipsammet hodii per omnia hujus urbis compita, per omnia cubicula, cum incredibili astantium plausu, saltari videas. Nec inter Æthiopos tantem et obscuros homines, sed inter honestissimas fæminas ac nobili loco natas. Saltationis modus hoc ritu peragitur. Saltant vir et fæmina, vel bini vel plures. Corpora ad musicos modos per omnia libidinorum irritimenta versantur. Membrorum mollissimi flexus, clunium motationes, micationes fæmorum, salacium insultuum imagines, omnia denique turgentis lasciviæ solertissimo studio expressa simulacra. Videas cevere virum et cum quodam gannitu crissare feminam eo lepore et venustate ut ineptæ profecto ac rusticæ tibi viderentur tremulæ nates Photidos Appuleianæ. Interim omnia constrepunt cachinnis: quin spectatores ipsi, satyricæ Atellanæque ορχκεσεως furore correpti, in ipso simulatæ libidinis campo leni quodam gestu nutuque vellicantur et fluctuant.”[21]I was likewise shown a more complicated machine, invented by one of the workmen at the English Consul’s dairy. A perpendicular axis, passing through the floor of the ceiling, and set in motion by a wheel in an upper room or underneath, had a certain number of stout cogs projecting from it horizontally, but wedge-shaped, so that the edge which takes the end of the hammer handle is sharp at first, and grows broader; consequently, as it passes round, will press down the short end of the hammer: and, as the idea was ingenious for such poor machinists as the Egyptians, I made a sketch of it. Thus one yoke of oxen might set to work eight or ten pestles, and much room be saved.[22]These rushes were shown to Sir Joseph Banks, who pronounced them to be not the papyrus.[23]These coffers are covered with web-cloth, girted with cords: they are extremely useful in travelling; and, speaking from six years’ experience, it may be averred that, though apparently so rickety and fragile, they resist longer than any other species of travelling-trunk of Turkish manufacture, and have the advantage of peculiar lightness. They will not certainly bear a comparison with English leather trunks: but I would still recommend every one who visits Turkey to leave behind him as much as possible what is not in the fashion of the country, for fear of exciting the cupidity of the natives, who are too apt to imagine everything strange to be valuable.[24]I afterwards saw this same Iachimo, in the year 1819, in the service of some English travellers in Syria. He was by this time exalted to the rank of dragoman.[25]Our party was made up of the following persons: Lady Hester Stanhope, Mr. B., Mr. Pearce, and myself; Mrs. Fry, Lady Hester’s maid; a cook, two valets, both Cypriots, and Iachimo, the Ragusan, my servant. There was likewise an akkam, or tent-pitcher.[26]As these men had now been in the country twelve or fourteen years, they spoke the language, and were acquainted with the character of the people, so that they could serve in the double capacity of guards and interpreters.[27]These porters, who carry burdens under which an English porter would sink, are provided with a cushion made of old sacking stuffed with rushes. This hangs a little below the shoulder-blades, and on it their burden rests; it is kept steady by a long cord which goes round the forehead. As they walk under their load, they bend the body forward, the trunk forming almost a right angle with the lower extremities.[28]The two which Mr. Damiani owned were let at 4000 piasters per annum, as he said. It is true, they were very large, and well stocked with lemon, orange, almond, peach, pear, apple, pomegranate, and other trees. But these trees were yet young; for, in the invasion of the French, the orchards were destroyed for fire-wood. This was now a period of fifteen or sixteen years before; and there can be no greater proof of the fertility of the soil, and of the quickness of vegetation, than the rapid growth of these orchards.[29]Of the Mamelukes of the Pasha el Gezzàr there were yet alive six—Solyman, Pasha of Acre; Mohammed, Governor of Jaffa; Musa, motsellem of Gebâa; Khalyl, motsellem of Nabatéa; Solyman Effendy, motsellem of Sayda; and Hossayn Aga, collector of the customs at Latakia.[30]I would apologize for inserting routes so often described, if it were not that I feel I may be able to rectify some errors both in distances and in the names of places, which are found in the books of many travellers, owing to their ignorance of the Arabic language, and the consequent difficulty of acquiring correct information. Routes are, no doubt, uninteresting to most readers; as much, therefore, as possible has been thrown into the appendix.[31]Pococke.[32]It is not to be imagined that pulling off the turban is like pulling off the hat: it is more than that, as those who wear turbans have the head close shaved, and consequently expose a bald pate when they take it off: a Turk never would do it. We took off our shoes also.[33]Kowass means an archer; the name being still preserved, although the weapons are laid aside.[34]The Augey or Awjey was the boundary of the country of the Philistines, which extended north and south from below Gaza to this river.[35]This name has since struck me as fictitious, as it signifies merely “The Sands.”[36]Probably the site of Antipatris—“Then the soldiers, as it was commanded them, took Paul and brought him by night to Antipatris.”—Acts xxiii. 31.[37]Abulfeda speaks of Cæsarea as having been a flourishing city, and marks it in his time as in a ruinous state. It is sixty-two miles from Jerusalem, thirty from Joppa, thirty-six from Acre. For the frequent mention made in Scripture of Cæsarea, consult the Acts of the Apostles, x. 24; xxi. 8; xxvi; xxi. 10; ix. 30; xviii. 22.[38]Yet Josephus (Antiq. Jud. xv. c. 13., and de Bell. Jud. 1, xxi.) describes an extraordinary port made by Herod.[39]The Crocodilon of Pliny.[40]“The persons to whom I applied the most for information were the shepherds, who lead their flocks into all parts of the country, and see more of it than other men.”—Morier’s Second Journey through Persia, &c. p. 73.[41]They also fetch water at sunset on account of the coolness which the water acquires by standing all night. In ch. xxiv. Genesis, v. 11, we read, “And he made his camels to kneel down by a well of water, at the time of the evening, even the time that women go out to draw water.”[42]Probably the ancient Sycaminos, as the distance will be found between it and the promontory of Mount Carmel to be four leagues; and so it is laid down in d’Anville’s map of Palestine.[43]Pococke says, that this castle was built by the Greek emperors to repel the attacks of the Saracens.[44]Erroneously, on most maps and by most travellers, spelt Caifa, on account of the deep aspiration of the Arabic h, which Europeans seldom are able to pronounce. In some authors it is called Hepha or Kepha. It would seem to be the ancient Porphyrion.[45]Perhaps the ancient Calamon. It seemed to abound in olive and fig trees.[46]The Kishon was the boundary of the tribe of Issachar, to within three or four leagues of the sea.[47]This son, Mr. Louis Catafago, was the gentleman who afterwards accompanied H. R. H. the Princess of Wales to Jerusalem. The father of the nephew, named Fathallah Carali, had been beheaded at Aleppo for mixing in government intrigues, he being a merchant.[48]The antient Belus.[49]Jer: c. xxii. v. 15. He shall be buried with the burial of an ass—drawn and cast forth beyond the gates.[50]Many years afterwards, I saw one of these, named Andréa, at Larnaka in Cyprus, where, with the money he had scraped together in Syria, he had established himself as a small shopkeeper.[51]Mr. Burckhardt calls him Haÿm Farkhy, p. 327.[52]A katib is generally known by his inkstand, which he wears in the girdle of his vest. The form of the inkstand seems designed to answer this purpose. A great man or katib like Mâlem Haym has his of silver: for common persons they are made of brass. In Ezechiel we read, ix., 2—“And one man with a writer’s inkhorn by his side;” alluding to this custom; but the translators have substituted the word horn. Horn, however, is never used for this purpose; indeed, the shape of the instrument would render it impossible.[53]It might be asked how this bath is supplied with water. There is an aqueduct raised on arches, which conveys water from the foot of the adjoining mountains. Abulfeda speaks of a fountain, for which Acre, in his time, was celebrated, and calls itAyn el bakr: perhaps its spring was now converted to the use of the New Bath.[54]See Bruce’s opinion on this subject in the sixth volume of his Travels, 8vo. edition. See also the first book of Samuel, x. 27:—“and they despised him, and brought him no presents.” Maundrell says, “It is counted uncivil to visit in this country without an offering in hand. All great men expect it as a kind of tribute due to their character and authority, and look upon themselves as affronted, and indeed defrauded when this compliment is omitted. Even in familiar visits amongst inferior people, a flower, an orange, or some such token of respect to the person visited is offered: the Turks in this point keeping up the ancient Oriental custom frequently mentioned in Sacred History.”[55]The Levantine custom of dining at noon and supping at sunset gave way to coffee and tea breakfasts, and dinner at three or four, for the sake of walking in the cool of the evening.[56]The baths of Tabariah are called, Hamam el damakyr (which is the largest), and, Hamam el lulu.[57]The conclusion of this affair will be related hereafter at Damascus. Mr. B. likewise purchased a horse of Mr. C.’s brother-in-law for £35.[58]One for 200 piasters, or £10; one for £4, a serviceable beast that I afterwards left in Syria, still well and hard working. Lady Hester’s retinue consisted now of the following persons: Giorgio filled the place of interpreter; Mr. Catafago made over to her his own cook, a Cypriot, marked with all the characteristic filth of his island. Mr. B. hired a good-natured Akáwi, or native of Acre, a barber by trade, named Hanah, or John, whose recommendation consisted principally in knowing a little Italian. My Ragusan sailor still remained with me.[59]Thetarbûshis a red skull cap worn by females: round it the handkerchief which forms the turban is attached.Sereahis a white slave or concubine.[60]This bulta or balta, a kind of battle-axe, was the emblem of authority which El Gezzàr generally bore about with him. It is said that upon the retreat of the French from before Acre, El Gezzàr, to show his sense of Sir W. S. Smith’s success, gave this balta into the hands of the gallant commodore, and said to him—“You now represent myself: exercise for twenty-four hours the power with which you are invested, in what acts you please.” Sir Sydney ordered the prison doors to be thrown open, and gave the prisoners their liberty.[61]Squires of the bed-chamber.[62]Governor.[63]II. Samuel, c. xx. v. 3. And David took the ten women, his concubines, whom he had left to keep the house, and put them inward, and fed them, but went not in unto them: so they were shut up unto the day of their death.[64]Zyb is the ancient Ecdippa.—Poc.[65]There is reason to believe that pay-gates and toll-bars were of frequent occurrence in Judea and Palestine. Capernaum, in the New Testament, is no other than a compound of Guffer and nâam.[66]Since that time, I have traversed this same road five times, and on every occasion I have observed some persons so alarmed at the danger to which they were exposed as to choose to lead their horses over rather than to remain mounted.[67]I measured the largest of these basins or reservoirs on the top, and found its circumference to be eighty paces. It was much damaged by time and use, but seemed, when perfect, to have been of a heptagonal or hexagonal form. This reservoir alone supplied water to four pair of mill-stones, which were rented at the rate of 2500 piasters (£75) a year each pair.[68]The Kasmia would seem to be the ancient Leontes, as marked on d’Anville’s map of Palestine.[69]Upon the hills above these grottoes is the village of Adlûn, which Pococke calls Adnou.[70]Cousin to Damiani of Jaffa.[71]Khudder is an appellative of St. George, but why he is considered a holy man by the Mahometans I am ignorant.[72]This spring is named by Pococke Sakat Elourby. Saka is a watercourse, and Elourby is mistaken by him for El Kharby, a ruin. His muleteers, ignorant of the real name, probably answered him, when he asked what do you call this? This? why, this is the watercourse of the ruin, and so it was entered in his note-book. We shall have occasion to remark several errors of this sort, regarding names of more consequence than of a spring, and the more dangerous in such a man, inasmuch as he has always been considered a good Arabic scholar.[73]This reservoir Pococke calls Elborok, meaning to say El Burky, the reservoir, which he should designate as such, otherwise the name obtains a place in a map as that of a village or town.[74]This river Pococke calls the Torrent Ezuron.[75]This custom exists in the north of Scotland. In Galloway, for example, in 1798, on the estate of Kironchtree was found, under a cairn of stones which was removed to build a dyke, a sepulchre, within which was an urn. The cairn had been heaped up precisely in the same way as that of Sayd el Abd.[76]The Kûrds are a ferocious people inhabiting a part of Mesopotamia. They pass into Syria as mercenaries, and are often selected as executioners.[77]Nahr Burgût is mis-named by Pococke Barout.[78]Beled Suffad, of which Suffad is the capital, extends from Calâat Sâas to Geser Benàt Yacûb and to Khan el Minny between Tabariah and Suffad. Calâat Sâsa lies in a strait line from Suffad to Acre.[79]For Sayda, see likewise Nub Geogr. A. iii. S. v. p. 135. Prin. ed. Ar. Also Gen. x. 15.; xlix. 13. Joshua, xi. 8; xix. 28; Judges, i. xxxi.; Strabo, xvi. p. 757; Plin. Nat. Hist. v. 17; Il. Hom. xxiii. 744,et passim, Σιδονες πολυδαιδαλοι.[80]Their father, a Frenchman, had been a doctor at Sayda, but had educated these his children as merchants, until the overthrow of the French trade in the Levant necessitated them to convert the counting-house into an apothecary’s shop.[81]Pronounced Joon; afterwards for many years the residence of Lady Hester, and where also she died.[82]The reader is referred to a recent work, called “The Modern Syrians,” for a learned dissertation upon them.[83]Âakel, masculine; âakely, feminine.[84]To prevent confusion, it may be as well to explain the difference of two names sometimes confounded from the supposed resemblance in the term Beshýr. The appellation Beshýr is what we should call the Christian name. Thus we will suppose two persons bearing the same name, George—the one will be emir George—the other shaykh George. So we have here two persons called Beshýr, and one is the Emir Beshýr—the other the Shaykh Beshýr. In this instance, the Emir and the Shaykh are of two different families. The Shaykh is of the house Jumbalat. At the time this work goes to the press, the Emir Beshýr must be 86 years of age. He is of venerable appearance, has met with many adversities, and has yet so often extricated himself from them that it would not be surprising if he again recovered his principality.[85]There were three families among the Drûzes, which were more especially remarkable for their influence and antiquity: these were the house of Jambalat (Beyt Jambalat), the house of Amád (Beyt-el-Amád), and the house of Neked (Beyt Neked.)[86]Hadj Aly assured me that his wife, who was a Metoualy woman, made no scruple of eating raw meat; and that, when mincing mutton to make afarcecalledcubby, she often ate so much as to spoil her dinner. It is plain that the Israelites did the same. Exodus ix. 12.; “Eat not of it raw.”[87]The Aleppobouton(in Arabic the one-year tetter) is a solitary, sanious, scabby ulcer, about the size of a sixpence, which breaks out once, and once only, on almost all persons indiscriminately who reside at, or visit, Aleppo. No part of the body is exempt from it; and perhaps the face is oftener attacked than any. Its duration is about twelve months, and hence its name. No remedy has yet been discovered for it; and it generally gives least trouble when let alone. The cicatrix, which it always leaves, resembles that of a vaccine pock, or of an issue dried up: and, when, for example, it has chosen the tip of the nose for its seat, it much disfigures the face.[88]The Arabic name of Damascus.[89]This benýsh is of cloth in winter, and of thin woollen stuff in the summer. It is made to envelop the whole body, excepting the face.[90]The wife of our consul there.

[1]These were principally the death of Mr. Pitt, her uncle, with whom she had resided for several years, and of her half-brother, the Hon. Charles Stanhope, who was killed at the battle of Corunna.

[2]Mr. Michael Bruce will be known to most readers as the gentleman, who, conjointly with Lieutenant-General Sir Robert Wilson and the Hon. Mr. Hutchinson, effected the escape of Lavallette from prison on the eve of his execution.

[3]Captain Whitby was distinguished by his active service in the war of America, and, subsequently, by his gallant conduct in a severe naval engagement up the Adriatic.

[4]As we say Furnival’s Inn, Lincoln’s Inn, &c.

[5]The advantage of these stone walls and floors was exemplified in an accident which occurred whilst I was at La Valetta. I was attending, professionally, on Viscount Ebrington, the present Earl Fortescue, who was indisposed in bed, when his servant, in holding the candle, set fire to the musquito net. His lordship jumped out of bed, and the net blazed and was consumed, without any other apprehension for the result than the personal inconvenience and danger caused to a sick man by sudden exposure to cold.

[6]Afterwards Sir Hildebrand Oakes.

[7]Now Dr. Fiott Lee, of Hartwell.

[8]Lord Sligo spent two days with his Highness, who manifested the pleasure he experienced in the visit, as well by splendid presents, as by the manner in which he treated his lordship. At one dinner eighty dishes were served up for his Highness and the marquis only. He sent a polite message to Lady Hester to express his regret that he should not see her, as he had been called by the Porte to the army, then marching against Russia.

[9]A long mantle used to hide the person out of doors.

[10]The Lawsonia, Lin.

[11]Lasso papavera collo.

[12]Mr. Galt, the novelist.

[13]Now Sir Stratford Canning.

[14]M. de Maubourg, chargé d’affaires at Constantinople.

[15]Cherries sold at a farthing per pound, and walnuts in the season, I was told, at ninepence per bushel.

[16]Now Hydrographer to the Admiralty.

[17]Things are much changed since that time.

[18]For her turban and girdle she bought two handsome cashmere shawls, each at £50. Her pantaloons, most richly embroidered in gold, cost £40; her waistcoat and her pelisse £50; her sabre £20; her saddle £35. Other articles necessary for the completion of the costume amounted to £100 more. Mr. B.’s dress was equally expensive; his sword more so, as he purchased it at 1000 piasters, at the exchange of 21, making about £50.

[19]A Mameluke saddle and bridle alone, without the rider, pistol, gun, or sword, weigh 17 rotolos, 3 oz., equal to 43½ lbs. English. A Turkish saddle and bridle, with the rider’s carbine, pistols, sabre, cartouch-box, brogues, and cloak, weigh about 53 lbs. English. A common Turkish saddle weighs 34 lbs. English.

[20]That the learned reader, however, may not be deprived of a description of this kind of dancing, which was so much talked about during the trial of Caroline, the queen of George IV., we will insert that which is given by Emanuel Martin to his friend J. A. Not recollecting whence this extract was made, I am unable to say precisely who Martin and his friend were, but will vouch for the correctness of the delineation, which is quite graphic. “Nôsti saltationem illam Gaditanam, obscenitate suâ per omne œvum famosam: atqui ipsammet hodii per omnia hujus urbis compita, per omnia cubicula, cum incredibili astantium plausu, saltari videas. Nec inter Æthiopos tantem et obscuros homines, sed inter honestissimas fæminas ac nobili loco natas. Saltationis modus hoc ritu peragitur. Saltant vir et fæmina, vel bini vel plures. Corpora ad musicos modos per omnia libidinorum irritimenta versantur. Membrorum mollissimi flexus, clunium motationes, micationes fæmorum, salacium insultuum imagines, omnia denique turgentis lasciviæ solertissimo studio expressa simulacra. Videas cevere virum et cum quodam gannitu crissare feminam eo lepore et venustate ut ineptæ profecto ac rusticæ tibi viderentur tremulæ nates Photidos Appuleianæ. Interim omnia constrepunt cachinnis: quin spectatores ipsi, satyricæ Atellanæque ορχκεσεως furore correpti, in ipso simulatæ libidinis campo leni quodam gestu nutuque vellicantur et fluctuant.”

[21]I was likewise shown a more complicated machine, invented by one of the workmen at the English Consul’s dairy. A perpendicular axis, passing through the floor of the ceiling, and set in motion by a wheel in an upper room or underneath, had a certain number of stout cogs projecting from it horizontally, but wedge-shaped, so that the edge which takes the end of the hammer handle is sharp at first, and grows broader; consequently, as it passes round, will press down the short end of the hammer: and, as the idea was ingenious for such poor machinists as the Egyptians, I made a sketch of it. Thus one yoke of oxen might set to work eight or ten pestles, and much room be saved.

[22]These rushes were shown to Sir Joseph Banks, who pronounced them to be not the papyrus.

[23]These coffers are covered with web-cloth, girted with cords: they are extremely useful in travelling; and, speaking from six years’ experience, it may be averred that, though apparently so rickety and fragile, they resist longer than any other species of travelling-trunk of Turkish manufacture, and have the advantage of peculiar lightness. They will not certainly bear a comparison with English leather trunks: but I would still recommend every one who visits Turkey to leave behind him as much as possible what is not in the fashion of the country, for fear of exciting the cupidity of the natives, who are too apt to imagine everything strange to be valuable.

[24]I afterwards saw this same Iachimo, in the year 1819, in the service of some English travellers in Syria. He was by this time exalted to the rank of dragoman.

[25]Our party was made up of the following persons: Lady Hester Stanhope, Mr. B., Mr. Pearce, and myself; Mrs. Fry, Lady Hester’s maid; a cook, two valets, both Cypriots, and Iachimo, the Ragusan, my servant. There was likewise an akkam, or tent-pitcher.

[26]As these men had now been in the country twelve or fourteen years, they spoke the language, and were acquainted with the character of the people, so that they could serve in the double capacity of guards and interpreters.

[27]These porters, who carry burdens under which an English porter would sink, are provided with a cushion made of old sacking stuffed with rushes. This hangs a little below the shoulder-blades, and on it their burden rests; it is kept steady by a long cord which goes round the forehead. As they walk under their load, they bend the body forward, the trunk forming almost a right angle with the lower extremities.

[28]The two which Mr. Damiani owned were let at 4000 piasters per annum, as he said. It is true, they were very large, and well stocked with lemon, orange, almond, peach, pear, apple, pomegranate, and other trees. But these trees were yet young; for, in the invasion of the French, the orchards were destroyed for fire-wood. This was now a period of fifteen or sixteen years before; and there can be no greater proof of the fertility of the soil, and of the quickness of vegetation, than the rapid growth of these orchards.

[29]Of the Mamelukes of the Pasha el Gezzàr there were yet alive six—Solyman, Pasha of Acre; Mohammed, Governor of Jaffa; Musa, motsellem of Gebâa; Khalyl, motsellem of Nabatéa; Solyman Effendy, motsellem of Sayda; and Hossayn Aga, collector of the customs at Latakia.

[30]I would apologize for inserting routes so often described, if it were not that I feel I may be able to rectify some errors both in distances and in the names of places, which are found in the books of many travellers, owing to their ignorance of the Arabic language, and the consequent difficulty of acquiring correct information. Routes are, no doubt, uninteresting to most readers; as much, therefore, as possible has been thrown into the appendix.

[31]Pococke.

[32]It is not to be imagined that pulling off the turban is like pulling off the hat: it is more than that, as those who wear turbans have the head close shaved, and consequently expose a bald pate when they take it off: a Turk never would do it. We took off our shoes also.

[33]Kowass means an archer; the name being still preserved, although the weapons are laid aside.

[34]The Augey or Awjey was the boundary of the country of the Philistines, which extended north and south from below Gaza to this river.

[35]This name has since struck me as fictitious, as it signifies merely “The Sands.”

[36]Probably the site of Antipatris—“Then the soldiers, as it was commanded them, took Paul and brought him by night to Antipatris.”—Acts xxiii. 31.

[37]Abulfeda speaks of Cæsarea as having been a flourishing city, and marks it in his time as in a ruinous state. It is sixty-two miles from Jerusalem, thirty from Joppa, thirty-six from Acre. For the frequent mention made in Scripture of Cæsarea, consult the Acts of the Apostles, x. 24; xxi. 8; xxvi; xxi. 10; ix. 30; xviii. 22.

[38]Yet Josephus (Antiq. Jud. xv. c. 13., and de Bell. Jud. 1, xxi.) describes an extraordinary port made by Herod.

[39]The Crocodilon of Pliny.

[40]“The persons to whom I applied the most for information were the shepherds, who lead their flocks into all parts of the country, and see more of it than other men.”—Morier’s Second Journey through Persia, &c. p. 73.

[41]They also fetch water at sunset on account of the coolness which the water acquires by standing all night. In ch. xxiv. Genesis, v. 11, we read, “And he made his camels to kneel down by a well of water, at the time of the evening, even the time that women go out to draw water.”

[42]Probably the ancient Sycaminos, as the distance will be found between it and the promontory of Mount Carmel to be four leagues; and so it is laid down in d’Anville’s map of Palestine.

[43]Pococke says, that this castle was built by the Greek emperors to repel the attacks of the Saracens.

[44]Erroneously, on most maps and by most travellers, spelt Caifa, on account of the deep aspiration of the Arabic h, which Europeans seldom are able to pronounce. In some authors it is called Hepha or Kepha. It would seem to be the ancient Porphyrion.

[45]Perhaps the ancient Calamon. It seemed to abound in olive and fig trees.

[46]The Kishon was the boundary of the tribe of Issachar, to within three or four leagues of the sea.

[47]This son, Mr. Louis Catafago, was the gentleman who afterwards accompanied H. R. H. the Princess of Wales to Jerusalem. The father of the nephew, named Fathallah Carali, had been beheaded at Aleppo for mixing in government intrigues, he being a merchant.

[48]The antient Belus.

[49]Jer: c. xxii. v. 15. He shall be buried with the burial of an ass—drawn and cast forth beyond the gates.

[50]Many years afterwards, I saw one of these, named Andréa, at Larnaka in Cyprus, where, with the money he had scraped together in Syria, he had established himself as a small shopkeeper.

[51]Mr. Burckhardt calls him Haÿm Farkhy, p. 327.

[52]A katib is generally known by his inkstand, which he wears in the girdle of his vest. The form of the inkstand seems designed to answer this purpose. A great man or katib like Mâlem Haym has his of silver: for common persons they are made of brass. In Ezechiel we read, ix., 2—“And one man with a writer’s inkhorn by his side;” alluding to this custom; but the translators have substituted the word horn. Horn, however, is never used for this purpose; indeed, the shape of the instrument would render it impossible.

[53]It might be asked how this bath is supplied with water. There is an aqueduct raised on arches, which conveys water from the foot of the adjoining mountains. Abulfeda speaks of a fountain, for which Acre, in his time, was celebrated, and calls itAyn el bakr: perhaps its spring was now converted to the use of the New Bath.

[54]See Bruce’s opinion on this subject in the sixth volume of his Travels, 8vo. edition. See also the first book of Samuel, x. 27:—“and they despised him, and brought him no presents.” Maundrell says, “It is counted uncivil to visit in this country without an offering in hand. All great men expect it as a kind of tribute due to their character and authority, and look upon themselves as affronted, and indeed defrauded when this compliment is omitted. Even in familiar visits amongst inferior people, a flower, an orange, or some such token of respect to the person visited is offered: the Turks in this point keeping up the ancient Oriental custom frequently mentioned in Sacred History.”

[55]The Levantine custom of dining at noon and supping at sunset gave way to coffee and tea breakfasts, and dinner at three or four, for the sake of walking in the cool of the evening.

[56]The baths of Tabariah are called, Hamam el damakyr (which is the largest), and, Hamam el lulu.

[57]The conclusion of this affair will be related hereafter at Damascus. Mr. B. likewise purchased a horse of Mr. C.’s brother-in-law for £35.

[58]One for 200 piasters, or £10; one for £4, a serviceable beast that I afterwards left in Syria, still well and hard working. Lady Hester’s retinue consisted now of the following persons: Giorgio filled the place of interpreter; Mr. Catafago made over to her his own cook, a Cypriot, marked with all the characteristic filth of his island. Mr. B. hired a good-natured Akáwi, or native of Acre, a barber by trade, named Hanah, or John, whose recommendation consisted principally in knowing a little Italian. My Ragusan sailor still remained with me.

[59]Thetarbûshis a red skull cap worn by females: round it the handkerchief which forms the turban is attached.Sereahis a white slave or concubine.

[60]This bulta or balta, a kind of battle-axe, was the emblem of authority which El Gezzàr generally bore about with him. It is said that upon the retreat of the French from before Acre, El Gezzàr, to show his sense of Sir W. S. Smith’s success, gave this balta into the hands of the gallant commodore, and said to him—“You now represent myself: exercise for twenty-four hours the power with which you are invested, in what acts you please.” Sir Sydney ordered the prison doors to be thrown open, and gave the prisoners their liberty.

[61]Squires of the bed-chamber.

[62]Governor.

[63]II. Samuel, c. xx. v. 3. And David took the ten women, his concubines, whom he had left to keep the house, and put them inward, and fed them, but went not in unto them: so they were shut up unto the day of their death.

[64]Zyb is the ancient Ecdippa.—Poc.

[65]There is reason to believe that pay-gates and toll-bars were of frequent occurrence in Judea and Palestine. Capernaum, in the New Testament, is no other than a compound of Guffer and nâam.

[66]Since that time, I have traversed this same road five times, and on every occasion I have observed some persons so alarmed at the danger to which they were exposed as to choose to lead their horses over rather than to remain mounted.

[67]I measured the largest of these basins or reservoirs on the top, and found its circumference to be eighty paces. It was much damaged by time and use, but seemed, when perfect, to have been of a heptagonal or hexagonal form. This reservoir alone supplied water to four pair of mill-stones, which were rented at the rate of 2500 piasters (£75) a year each pair.

[68]The Kasmia would seem to be the ancient Leontes, as marked on d’Anville’s map of Palestine.

[69]Upon the hills above these grottoes is the village of Adlûn, which Pococke calls Adnou.

[70]Cousin to Damiani of Jaffa.

[71]Khudder is an appellative of St. George, but why he is considered a holy man by the Mahometans I am ignorant.

[72]This spring is named by Pococke Sakat Elourby. Saka is a watercourse, and Elourby is mistaken by him for El Kharby, a ruin. His muleteers, ignorant of the real name, probably answered him, when he asked what do you call this? This? why, this is the watercourse of the ruin, and so it was entered in his note-book. We shall have occasion to remark several errors of this sort, regarding names of more consequence than of a spring, and the more dangerous in such a man, inasmuch as he has always been considered a good Arabic scholar.

[73]This reservoir Pococke calls Elborok, meaning to say El Burky, the reservoir, which he should designate as such, otherwise the name obtains a place in a map as that of a village or town.

[74]This river Pococke calls the Torrent Ezuron.

[75]This custom exists in the north of Scotland. In Galloway, for example, in 1798, on the estate of Kironchtree was found, under a cairn of stones which was removed to build a dyke, a sepulchre, within which was an urn. The cairn had been heaped up precisely in the same way as that of Sayd el Abd.

[76]The Kûrds are a ferocious people inhabiting a part of Mesopotamia. They pass into Syria as mercenaries, and are often selected as executioners.

[77]Nahr Burgût is mis-named by Pococke Barout.

[78]Beled Suffad, of which Suffad is the capital, extends from Calâat Sâas to Geser Benàt Yacûb and to Khan el Minny between Tabariah and Suffad. Calâat Sâsa lies in a strait line from Suffad to Acre.

[79]For Sayda, see likewise Nub Geogr. A. iii. S. v. p. 135. Prin. ed. Ar. Also Gen. x. 15.; xlix. 13. Joshua, xi. 8; xix. 28; Judges, i. xxxi.; Strabo, xvi. p. 757; Plin. Nat. Hist. v. 17; Il. Hom. xxiii. 744,et passim, Σιδονες πολυδαιδαλοι.

[80]Their father, a Frenchman, had been a doctor at Sayda, but had educated these his children as merchants, until the overthrow of the French trade in the Levant necessitated them to convert the counting-house into an apothecary’s shop.

[81]Pronounced Joon; afterwards for many years the residence of Lady Hester, and where also she died.

[82]The reader is referred to a recent work, called “The Modern Syrians,” for a learned dissertation upon them.

[83]Âakel, masculine; âakely, feminine.

[84]To prevent confusion, it may be as well to explain the difference of two names sometimes confounded from the supposed resemblance in the term Beshýr. The appellation Beshýr is what we should call the Christian name. Thus we will suppose two persons bearing the same name, George—the one will be emir George—the other shaykh George. So we have here two persons called Beshýr, and one is the Emir Beshýr—the other the Shaykh Beshýr. In this instance, the Emir and the Shaykh are of two different families. The Shaykh is of the house Jumbalat. At the time this work goes to the press, the Emir Beshýr must be 86 years of age. He is of venerable appearance, has met with many adversities, and has yet so often extricated himself from them that it would not be surprising if he again recovered his principality.

[85]There were three families among the Drûzes, which were more especially remarkable for their influence and antiquity: these were the house of Jambalat (Beyt Jambalat), the house of Amád (Beyt-el-Amád), and the house of Neked (Beyt Neked.)

[86]Hadj Aly assured me that his wife, who was a Metoualy woman, made no scruple of eating raw meat; and that, when mincing mutton to make afarcecalledcubby, she often ate so much as to spoil her dinner. It is plain that the Israelites did the same. Exodus ix. 12.; “Eat not of it raw.”

[87]The Aleppobouton(in Arabic the one-year tetter) is a solitary, sanious, scabby ulcer, about the size of a sixpence, which breaks out once, and once only, on almost all persons indiscriminately who reside at, or visit, Aleppo. No part of the body is exempt from it; and perhaps the face is oftener attacked than any. Its duration is about twelve months, and hence its name. No remedy has yet been discovered for it; and it generally gives least trouble when let alone. The cicatrix, which it always leaves, resembles that of a vaccine pock, or of an issue dried up: and, when, for example, it has chosen the tip of the nose for its seat, it much disfigures the face.

[88]The Arabic name of Damascus.

[89]This benýsh is of cloth in winter, and of thin woollen stuff in the summer. It is made to envelop the whole body, excepting the face.

[90]The wife of our consul there.

Transcriber’s Notes:1. Obvious printers’, punctuation and spelling errors have been corrected silently.2. Where hyphenation is in doubt, it has been retained as in the original.3. Some hyphenated and non-hyphenated versions of the same words have been retained as in the original.

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