Description of Tafilet and its commerce — Flourishing state of agriculture and industry — Miserable condition of the Jews; their habits and customs — Afilé — Gardens — Tanneyara, Marca, M’Dayara, Rahaba — Chains of granite mountains — Small river of Guigo — L’Eyarac, Tamaroc, Kars, Ain-Zeland, L’Eksebi — Very high mountains covered with cork-trees — L’Ouin — Guigo — Town of Soforo — Town of el-Fez, or Fez, the ancient capital of Morocco.
The Tafilet is a small district forming, like el-Drah, part of the dominions of the Emperor of Morocco. Its inhabitants pay some imposts to this monarch, who maintains a bacha or governor, resident at Ressant, a town distinguished by a magnificent gateway, surrounded with various coloured Dutch tiles, symmetrically arranged in a diamond pattern.
The villages of Ghourland, L’Eksebi, Sosso, and Boheim, in the same line, all S. E. of Ressant, are pretty near each other: those which I have had an opportunity of examining, are nearly of equal size, and contain about eleven or twelve hundred inhabitants, all land-holders or merchants. The soil of Tafilet is level, composed of sand of an ash grey, and very productive; much corn, and all sorts of European fruits and vegetables, are cultivated here; lucern thrives well, and when dry is stored for winter provender.
The natives have fine sheep, with remarkably white wool; they use it in making very handsome wrappers, which are woven by the women. They have also some horned cattle, though fewer than the roving tribes, excellent horses, some asses, and many good mules. The horses are for the most part the property of the Berbers, who are very numerously established in Tafilet, but less addicted to pillage than those of el-Drah, and indeed formidable to strangers alone.
This country is in general very agreeable: its inhabitants carry on a considerable commerce with the Soudan and el-Arawan, whither they export tobacco in leaves of their own growing, together with European commodities; and receive in exchange gold, ivory, gum, ostrich-feathers, dried provisions, and slaves; for, unhappily, the infamous traffic in the latter exists in full vigour in this part of Africa. The commodities which the merchants dispatch to Timbuctoo, through the medium of the roving Moors of el-Harib, who may be considered as the carriers of the Soudan, are transported on camels to the confines of the desert by the Berbers, who deliver them to the Moors engaged to convey them to their destination. The Berbers receive a tribute for this service, a species of indemnity given to them by agreement, since they do not, like the Arabs, extend their travels through all the negro countries. If the merchants were to neglect this prudent precaution, their caravans would be pillaged by these barbarians, as they sometimes are by the Touariks. I have already said that the most distinguished Moors of Tafilet usually settle at Timbuctoo, in the hope of making a fortune, as amongst us Europe is left for the new world: these Moors, after devoting five or six years to commerce, purchase gold and slaves, and return to live peaceably in their own country.
The soil of Tafilet is very good, and produces all the necessaries of life. The numberless date-trees surrounding each property furnish their owners with a plentiful subsistence and a considerable branch of commerce. They sell a quantity of dates in all the dependencies of Morocco, and especially in the towns situated on the sea-coast.
The population of this district is divided into several classes, and the distinction of social ranks is rigorously observed. Labourers by the day or month are considered as belonging to the lowest grade; those who esteem themselves of a higher order treat them as a very inferior race of beings. There are also in Tafilet many negro slaves, and some emancipated negroes, who, however, are never suffered to intermarry with the Moors; even the children born of a negress and a Moor, by a clandestine union, have no acknowledged condition in the country, and can never emerge from the lowest classes.
The inhabitants of Tafilet tan a great quantity of leather; they make excellent morocco, which is much esteemed in commerce, and finds at Fez a ready market. The people of this country are more industrious than I have any where remarked, in the different parts of Africa which I have visited.
Every one brings to the market the fruit of his labour; there may be seen in abundance woollen wrappers, coussabes, tanned leather, pagnes, shoes, mats, wooden trenchers, in short all the manufactures of the country.
Each proprietor is accustomed to enclose his lands either with an earth wall or a ditch; all the villages are walled, and those I have seen have but one gate of entrance, which is shut every evening. The inhabitants rear much poultry, as large as ours, and eat the eggs boiled. They have pigeons, but these birds are scarce. Some individuals keep a dog and a cat, which live upon dates.
Throughout the districts of el-Drah and Tafilet are found Jews, who inhabit the same villages with the Musulmans; they are in a pitiable condition, wandering about almost naked, and continually insulted by the Moors; these fanatics even beat them shamefully, and throw stones at them as at dogs: the smallest children may abuse them with impunity, since they dare not revenge themselves, and cannot expect protection from authority. I have frequently been so excited myself as to threaten these little revilers with severe chastisement.
The Jews of Tafilet are excessively dirty, and always go barefoot, perhaps to avoid the inconvenience of frequently taking off their sandals, which they are compelled to do in passing before a mosque or the door of a sherif. They are clothed in a shabby coussabe, and a very dirty white cloak, of little more value, which passes under the left arm, and is fastened over the right shoulder. They shave their heads after the example of the Moors, but leave a tuft of hair which falls over the forehead. Some are pedlars, others artizans; they manufacture shoes and mats from palm-leaves; some of them also are blacksmiths. They lend their money upon usury to the merchants trading in the Soudan, whither they never go themselves. Their only visible fortune consists in their houses, but they often take lands as a guarantee for the money which they lend. Money is always plentiful with the Jews: yet they affect the utmost poverty; because the Moors, who ascribe to them greater riches than they really possess, often persecute them for the purpose of extorting their gold: besides which, they not only pay tribute to the emperor and his agents, but are moreover harassed by the Berbers.
The Jews live better than the Mahometans, couscous and gruel forming but a small portion of their food; their bread is of wheat, kneaded and baked by themselves and their principal beverage, beer of their own brewing, though in the season of the vintage they make a little wine.
The Jewish, as well as Moorish women, wear a piece of stuff, twelve or fourteen feet long, about the body and thrown over the head, and go barefoot; their costume indeed differs only in the head-dress. They have on each side of the head a thick large tuft of hair hanging over the shoulder, about five inches in length and three in circumference, and they habitually cover their heads with a piece of coloured stuff, always dirty, like the rest of their garments.
The Jewesses whom I have seen in Tafilet are in general small, lively, and pretty: they have blue eyes, animated and expressive, aquiline nose, and a mouth of middling size; they are inquisitive, and very fond of talking. Drawing water, washing linen, fetching wood for cooking, in short all the household labours, fall to their share.
I shall not undertake to portray the Musulman women of Tafilet; I found it impossible to obtain a view of their faces: when out of doors they have the appearance of an uncouth moving mass, from an enormous woollen cloak, in which they are enveloped from head to foot, and which scarcely allows them to see the way they are going: it is only in the bosom of their families, and sometimes in the inner court, that they shew themselves unveiled. Care is taken to give the women notice to retire to their private apartments, when strangers are about to enter the dwelling upon any business.
A custom prevalent in the east obtains also here and is rigorously observed: when a common Moor passes a sherif he unties his sandals, takes them in his hand, and makes a low and respectful obeisance.
On the 2nd of August, about half past fourP. M.the caravan proceeded in a N. N. E. direction. We met on the road a vast number of Moors from the country, driving asses loaded with all sorts of productions, as melons, grapes, figs, and other fruit, and vegetables, going to a neighbouring market.
We crossed some fields, and passed near a walled village the name of which I have forgotten: continuing our route for the space of a mile to the N. N. E., we arrived at the village of Afilé, without which we halted at sun-set. It is situated near a considerable rivulet, called by the natives Sidi-Aiche, the water of which although brackish, is their only beverage: this rivulet runs slowly to the N. W. Plenty of barley for our beasts was brought, soon after our arrival, and some water-melons for the refreshment of the sherifs, of whom we had half a dozen in the caravan travelling to Fez to sell their dates; and who were not prevented by the insignificance of their traffic from assuming airs of importance.
Towards eleven at night, several large calabashes full of couscous, with the flesh of a kid killed for the purpose, were brought to us from the village; the bearers carried them on their heads, and were lighted by a taper. No sooner had these messes arrived than the descendants of Mahomet feasted voraciously, and gave what remained to the Moors of their train: care was taken to awaken all who were or pretended to be asleep. I was at the moment lying on the sand beside the baggage; and as no one seemed to pay any attention to me, I patiently resigned myself to the loss of my supper, although I had eaten nothing the whole day but some dates, given to me by my host at parting. At length a Moor from the village, walking about with his taper in his hand, discovered me, and asking who I was, led me to an immense dish of couscous, round which several Moors were assembled, and desired me to help myself. The Moor who presided at the repast placed some scraps of meat upon an old mule-cloth, and, when we had eaten the couscous, he gave to each a little bit of the reserved meat, tearing it with his dirty fingers.
On the 3rd of August, at half-past five in the morning, we again proceeded northward, through plantations entirely surrounded with earth walls, over which I perceived beautiful fruit trees, such as pears, figs, apricots, vines, and some rose bushes. These charming plains though rather deficient in moisture, often renewed the delightful remembrance of our European gardens. The sterility of the Sahara was still so impressed upon my imagination, that the plains of Tafilet appeared by comparison a terrestrial paradise.
About ten in the morning we passed Tanneyara, a little village, a mile to the east of our road, shaded by immense numbers of date-trees. Here our caravan was retarded by a troop of Arabs, to whom we were obliged, whether we would or not, to pay the passage-dues. This prank occasioned a great deal of confusion; the two parties had nearly come to blows; but fortunately no bad consequences ensued: the merchants gave a few dragmes, and the Arabs left us to continue our route, which lay over a dry and gravelly soil. The gently swelling hills which rose on either hand were apparently composed of red sand, and bore no vegetation: the heat was extreme, and we had no water to moisten our parched lips. At one in the afternoon we reached Marca, a large village enclosed by a wall twelve or fourteen feet high, and there halted.
We ran in haste to the wells, situated beyond the village, but could not draw water enough, having unfortunately no better bucket than an old leathern bag full of holes. My thirst being at length satisfied, I seated myself in the shade near the gate of the village; where many idle Moors were lying on their backs, waiting the call to supper: immediately upon perceiving me they rose with astonishment and asked each other, “Who is this man?†easily detecting me for a stranger by the costume I always wore, which was of Soudan stuff, and strikingly different from their own.
They assembled round me and overwhelmed me with questions. I was never taken at first sight by the Moors of Tafilet for an Arab; they always treated me at once as a stranger; redoubled artifice was necessary to deceive them: but when I declared myself to have been taken prisoner while very young by the army of Bonaparte, they appeared satisfied, and congratulated me upon the good resolution I had formed of returning to my country
At the gate of Marca, I met, by a singular accident, a Berber whom I had known at el-Harib: he received me with kindness, and immediately acquainted the assembly with my history. This Berber politely invited me to visit his humble cabin, of a single floor, where he seated me on a very clean mat, and his wife produced some dates which we ate together. She sat unveiled in a corner of a dark and dirty room employed in weaving a woollen wrapper. When we had eaten our dates, the Berber led me to the mosque, and introduced me to two sherifs, natural sons of the emperor: we found them at prayers: but no sooner had they finished than I was persecuted with questions; amongst others whether I had been circumcised either in the Soudan or at Alexandria: I replied that I was circumcised in my infancy previously to leaving my country, and I hastened to change the topic, these interrogatories being always distressing to me since they constrained me to repeated falsehoods. Fortunately my reply appeared satisfactory, and I took advantage of their discourse being directed for a moment to their pupils to leave them; they soon, however, sought me out at the gate of the village, where I was seated, placed themselves on the ground beside me, and displaying a New Testament in Latin and Arabic, asked me if I knew that book; I read a few passages to them, and they amused themselves with ridiculing the supposed credulity of the christians.
As the village was surrounded by pleasant walled gardens, I expressed a wish to see them. The youngest of the party instantly took me by the hand, and, followed by six other Moors, we walked to them. The young sherif when in his garden ordered some figs and grapes to be gathered, which he offered me very gracefully. I was particularly surprized by an almost French politeness in his manners; for example, never serving himself first, offering me the finest and ripest fruits, and even peeling them for me. I ate however but sparingly of fruit, fearing lest it might disagree with me. I saw in this garden melons, gombos, and a great variety of fruit-trees; it also contains a well thirty feet deep.
From the garden we returned to the mosque, where Sidi-Abdoul-Rahman, (this was the name of the young sherif) ordered one of his people to carry me some bread and honey; and desired me to remain till supper time, as he intended to provide me with that meal.
This good young man, about twenty-two years of age, favoured me with a very obliging invitation to spend some days with him at Marca, in order to recover from my fatigues, promising afterwards to forward me to Fez at his own expense. I thanked him heartily, but urged as an objection my impatience to reach home. The Berber brought me a handsome dish of mutton couscous; and a moment afterwards the sherif sent me a portion of his supper, and had the further kindness to order one of his household to accompany me with a lantern to our encampment.
On the 4th, at half after five in the morning, we departed, journeying N. N. W., amongst mountains and along the banks of a beautiful rivulet which fertilizes the neighbouring soil: the resident proprietors understand how to avail themselves of this resource; they form canals from it, by which they water their small possessions; by this method they are enabled to cultivate corn and maize in seasons of the greatest drought, and to produce abundance of fine melons. Some palms and fig-trees grow on the margin of this pretty rivulet; and I remarked throughout the route small habitations scattered at very small distances. We advanced more than two miles an hour notwithstanding the stony nature of the soil. At half past twoP. M.we halted at M-Dayara, a town defended by a high wall and encompassed by a moat seven or eight feet in depth and of equal breadth. We entered by a large gate and passed the night here. When the cattle were unladen and the baggage arranged, my guide, the sherif, noble scion of the prophet, recommended me to repair to the mosque to seek my supper: without answering him, I remained some time seated upon a mat, near a Moor of the town, who seeing I was in no hurry to withdraw, and no doubt fearing the necessity of dividing his supper with me, advised me to rejoin my companions, and take my share of the provision which the town would provide for them. Thus repulsed on all sides I lay down beside the baggage: my illustrious muleteer angrily asked, why I did not remain at the mosque; to which I replied that he might go thither himself to seek his supper; this answer silenced him. Finding him so desirous to get rid of me, I thought that the Moors of the caravan intended to club together to purchase food, and determined to learn how this might be.
The sherif Sidi-Moula-Sitec, a man of high nobility and who enjoyed the imperial favour, travelled along with our caravan; he carried his wife with him, concealed under a scarlet pavilion, as well to preserve her from the intense heat as to screen her from our observation: at the halting-places, four persons assisted her to alight, and one of her women, who also appeared veiled in our presence, lifted up a corner of the curtain to admit the air.
Sidi-Moula-Sitec, whose provisions for himself and his suite were separately dressed, sent in the evening a copious supply of tea to his travelling companions; they took it while waiting the approach of supper time; and soon afterwards an enormous dish of couscous was sent to them, which was speedily divided among twelve or fourteen Moors, who disputed the possession of it. When my muleteer had satisfied his hunger, he put the two or three mouthfuls of couscous that remained, in a small basket, generally used for feeding his asses with barley, and brought it to me, I eagerly accepted this food, as I had eaten nothing all day but a few dates. After this slender repast, finding that I should not be permitted to remain beside the baggage, I went in search of a place where I might sleep in quiet, and lay down at the door of the mosque, near some travelling Moors, who were so much annoyed by my cough, for I had a severe cold, that in great anger they even struck me, to compel me to withdraw.
At five in the morning, I perceived by the arrangements which were making, that we should not set out before evening, and determined, though with repugnance, to beg in the town for some dates, a fruit so plentiful in this country. I first applied to an old Moor, who affected all the externals of devotion, but he shewed little sensibility for my misery, recommending me to trust in God who would assist me; a second brought me a handful of rotten dates, which I could not eat; and a third, whose mien announced more charity, gave me a considerable quantity, but they were harder and worse than those which I had eaten at el-Harib. Losing my fortitude, and undeceived on the subject of Musulman charity, so much vaunted among us, I returned to our baggage, and, presenting my acquisition of fruit to the asses which refused it, I breakfasted upon a handful of that which had been given me at Boheim. Part of the day was spent in shoeing the animals.
About threeP.M, being all ready, we took our departure, and travelled N. W., over level and stony ground; the sun was setting as we reached Rahaba, where we encamped under the palm-trees, without the town. As I happened to be placed near the sherif Sidi-Moula-Sitec, who had shewn me, on the road, the unexampled courtesy of giving me a draught from the cup which he himself in general used, I went to thank him; he gave me a friendly reception, and, offering me his hand with a smile, told me that he had directed one of his suite to supply me with provisions all the way to Fez, and, to leave me under no uneasiness on this head, he renewed his order in my presence; but the profligate servant took little notice, and obeyed his master’s command for one night only.
On the 6th of August, at five in the morning, we continued our route northward, at first on very level ground; after which we reached a chain of mountains, stretching from E. N. E. to W. S. W., and struck into its gorges, following the course of a pretty little rivulet called Guigo; the road being extremely stony and difficult. About eight we passed L-Eyara, a village containing from twenty five to thirty houses, all ill-constructed with a ground-floor only; this village stands on a rock of black granite. Hitherto our direction was N. N. E., here we turned due north.
At oneP. M.we halted at Tamaroc till the heat, which was intense, should abate: I lay down upon the grass, in the shade of a fine rose-laurel, pleasantly situated on the margin of the rivulet, the freshness and gentle murmurs of which inclined me to sleep. The hills on each side of the route had no great elevation, and appeared composed of brittle and coarse-grained rose-coloured granite, in some parts combined with white quartz. At threeP. M., the heat having somewhat moderated, we proceeded northwards through the defiles till half past five; we then turned to the west, still following the sinuosities of the same rivulet. This stony road led us into a valley, well cropped with corn and maize, the verdant aspect of which amidst these barren mountains presented an enchanting spectacle. About seven in the evening we halted at Kars, where we passed the night. Between Tamaroc and this place, we saw no more palm-trees.
On the 7th at fiveA. M., we resumed our journey, first in a westerly, and subsequently in a northerly direction, still threading the defiles of the mountains, through a less fertile tract than that over which we had just passed; here though the country is still watered by the Guigo it is generally barren.
The roving Berbers, who encamp in these narrow valleys, find here and there a little forage for their cattle. About eleven o’clock we arrived at N-Zéland (or Ain-Zéland) our beasts being much fatigued. The hamlet is inhabited by Berbers, who breed fine sheep. As these people are accustomed to give nothing to the Moors, part of our caravan were compelled to forego their supper. The sherif Sidi-Moula-Sitec ordered a couscous, and sent a portion of it to the sherifs of the company; the Moors of inferior rank were not included in the distribution.
The Berbers, thinking to gain something by us, made cakes of barley-meal, which they sold for a good profit to those who had money: encouraged by the success of this traffic, they killed two sheep, which they cooked whole at a large fire, cut up into small pieces, and sold for four mouganans, a sum equivalent to eight sous of our money. But our company was so numerous that this provision proved insufficient, and those who could not obtain any ate dates only; a poor substitute for more nourishing food.
On the 8th of August, at threeA. M., we quitted N-Zeland. The beast I rode being excessively fatigued, I was compelled to perform part of this day’s journey on foot; and still weak, I walked with difficulty over the flinty mountain roads, pausing every moment to recover breath. I was not singular in my misfortune, many of our people were on foot, for the poor animals could scarcely drag themselves along. Till eight o’clock we proceeded northward, then for one hour westward, and afterwards turned again to the north. The road was so bad that the asses sunk under their burdens; their haunches were galled by the friction of a girth, which it is customary here to pass over the rump in the fashion of a crupper, to prevent the load from slipping forward in descending steep declivities, while another, which girds the breast, performs the same service in ascending. The guides without any remorse struck these poor animals severe blows to quicken their pace. At twoP. M., overcome with fatigue, we reached L-Eksebi, where we halted: this pretty village is encompassed by a good wall, and contains about eight hundred inhabitants; it is situated on an extensive plain, watered by the windings of the rivulet which I have before mentioned, and surrounded by high mountains wholly destitute of vegetation. The plain is well cultivated, and even embellished by some olive-trees. On our arrival, the inhabitants, all Moors, opened a market, where we found in abundance bread, meat, raisins, and figs, which were all sold by weight. Near this market is a kind of caravansera, where travellers are received on payment of a small remuneration for the animals only; these are lodged in little galleries constructed for the purpose, and the men sleep near them on the ground.
As the dates presented to me by my host of Boheim were now exhausted, and I had nothing whatever to eat, I determined to beg some, not of the towns-people, for as the palm-trees do not grow in the vicinity they are dear here, but of a young Moor of our own caravan, who obligingly gave me some.
On the 9th, we set out at five in the morning, directing our route to the north; about seven we turned to the W. N. W. ascending hills from one hundred to one hundred and twenty-five feet above the surface of the plain. In every direction similar eminences meet the eye, all exhibiting, with the exception of a few cork-trees, complete sterility. Exhausted with fatigue, I feared that it would be impossible to continue my journey; my limbs bent under me, and I was compelled to sit down continually; my courage was ready to forsake me: this ascent was indeed a terrible task for my enfeebled powers. By the blessing of God we attained the summit by nine o’clock; and thence descended into an extensive and beautiful plain, surrounded by high lands, which were mostly barren of vegetation. Four times in the course of the day our caravan was stopped by the Arabs, who had encamped by the road-side, to obtain payment of the passage dues, which was made in dates, and bread baked a second time in the oven; I was told that they acted under the sultan’s orders. Some Berbers as we passed spread a pagne beside the road, that a few dates might be thrown to them: this fruit is scarce and dear in this part of the country; and some of them brought us water in exchange. About three o’clock we arrived at L-Guim, a small Moorish village, where some cultivation is visible and some forage may be obtained, but the general aspect of the country is sterile and dry; not a single tree is to be seen. I supped upon some pieces of barley bread, baked a second time, and which I steeped in a little water. This bread Sidi-Moula-Sitec had sent me as a present, the evening before, by one of his servants. After this repast I lay down near a field of maize, making my pillow upon a ridge between its furrows.
At five in the morning of the 10th, we set out again, our route lying W. N. W.; at seven we turned to the north through defiles of arid and stony mountains; at ten to the N. N. W. The landscape, interspersed with lofty eminences, has a most dreary appearance; on some of them only grows a quantity of box to the height of about eighteen inches, the leaves of which were dry and yellow. In the level parts we saw some Arab tents from which at our approach the children issued to beg dates. About threeP. M.we reached Guigo, a small Berber village: its environs are naked, without any trace of cultivation, and the wells are so distant, that it is not easy to procure water without paying in dates, of which I had no more, and was obliged to have recourse to charity for a draught; I applied to several Moors, who all repulsed me like a dog, and bade me slake my thirst at the fountain.
The heat, which had been intense, moderated towards evening; just before our arrival a slight thunder-shower fell, which continued for a quarter of an hour, and greatly cooled the atmosphere. A sherif, who had long suffered from a bad foot, gave me some water and a small cake of wheat and aniseed, on condition that I should furnish him with a remedy; I had still a little diachylon left, and divided it with him; he then opened before me several rags, in which his foot was wrapped, and I saw two large white maggots upon the nearly healed wound.
On the 11th, at threeA. M.we quitted Guigo, journeying north upon a very stony road: many shrubs, however, flourish in this country; wild roses and mulberry-trees, the hawthorn, olive-tree, dwarf oak, and others, are watered by the current of a meandering rivulet,[19]in the transparent and delicious waters of which we found relief from our thirst. About twoP. M.we arrived at Soforo, a walled town, situated in a fine and extensive plain, very stony but fertile; maize and the olive are cultivated in this tract. The approach to the town is ornamented by pretty gardens enclosed by quickset hedges, and abounding in fruit-trees, round which creep in great numbers vines loaded with fine grapes. We alighted at a fandac.[20]I walked through this town which is the finest that I had hitherto seen. It contains a handsome mosque, built of brick and plastered with mortar; two fountains appropriated to the purpose of the Mahometan ablutions conduce to its decoration. Two watermills are the most remarkable objects in Soforo. The houses are chiefly built of brick and of one story. The streets are narrow and dirty, nevertheless the vicinity of several brooks which rise in the mountains, and the many pretty gardens of the suburbs render this town an agreeable abode. A market is held here daily, which attracts many strangers, and in which the Jews have shops. Baked meat is sold in it, and remarkably fine melons. A clumsy clock in the mosque tower excited my surprise.
In the evening, Moula-Sitec employed a Jew merchant to purchase some wax candles for him; the poor Jew on his return was stopped by a sherif, who, detaining him by his cloak, demanded one of them. In vain he protested with an air of supplication, that he had no means of making such a present, the Moor vehemently insisted, and, seizing the Israelite by a lock of his hair, drew his poniard with an apparent intention of killing him; quaking with fear the poor wretch cried out with all his might, “Oh! spare me, my lord, for the love of God.†The Moor at length released him, and the Jew ran off at his utmost speed.
Moula-Sitec called me to his presence, and inquired, as though he doubted my sincerity, whether I loved the Musulmans; he then made me recite some verses of the Koran, and at length informed me that on the following day we should reach Fez, which town is sometimes visited by christians.
About nine in the evening, great bowls of couscous were served for supper. The sherifs, being persons of high distinction, ate first, and sent us the remainder.
On the 12th of August, at fiveA. M.we quitted Soforo, and again observed in its outskirts a long line of pleasing gardens: the road, shaded by trellises of fig-trees, is paved with flints to the distance of nearly three or four miles from the town. As we gaily pursued our route northwards, we fell in with many Jews proceeding to the market of Fez, which place we also reached about noon. The road had been good, less stony than that we had previously traversed; but the ground was little cultivated.
Having neither acquaintance nor letters of recommendation, I took up my lodging with my muleteer at the fandac. After a short repose upon a mat, I was desirous of visiting the market. To reach it I passed through several dirty narrow streets of low buildings. The market is held in a street under a roof of trellis-work and straw; the dealers occupy little shops, five or six feet square, raised about three feet above the surface of the ground. Men keep these shops and sit there the whole day in the fashion of tailors on their board. No one took notice of me, and I bought for three felouses[21]a small loaf and a few grapes upon which I dined; then returning to the fandac I passed the night there with the asses and mules.
On the 13th, I went with a negro of Mequinaz to visit the upper part of the town; this good-natured man took pleasure in shewing me its curiosities. We inspected several mosques: one in particular attracted my attention as the finest; it is called by the Moors Mouladrib.
Wishing to proceed as soon as possible, risked changing two English crowns, in order to hire a mule to carry me to Rabat, where I hoped to find a French Consul. I applied first to a Moorish merchant, who bore the character of being very devout; he weighed my pieces and offered much less than their value; I was refusing to part with them on such terms when a Jew blacksmith passed us, and the Moor proposed to him to purchase them. Notwithstanding the bad character of his race, he proved less usurious than the Musulman. After weighing the crowns in scales which he always carried about him, he offered me a price much above that of the zealous follower of Mahomet; I therefore treated with him: but having at the moment no money at hand, to avoid detaining me he requested the Moor to pay me the price agreed upon. The latter hastened to comply, but gave me coin which would not pass without a diminution of one fourth of its value. Such is the charity of these avaricious hypocrites, who abuse with impunity the ignorance and simplicity of an unfortunate stranger.
The Moors all questioned me incessantly upon my travels; they pitied my sufferings, but not one of them invited me to eat; they gave me no other consolation than the assurance that God would not abandon me, but that it would please him to restore me to my country and my friends.
On the 14th, fearing that a longer residence in Fez would be injurious to my health, I made preparations for removing to Mequinaz: this, it was observed, was not the road to Algiers, but I was unwilling to increase my distance from Rabat and Tangier, and reported my intention in going to Mequinaz to be to throw myself at the feet of the Emperor, and make known to him my miserable situation; not doubting that his compassion would furnish me with the means of proceeding to Algiers, whence I should more easily obtain a passage to Alexandria. The importance of this application to the sultan being obvious, no farther observations were made on my project. I was happy in finding so satisfactory a pretence for approaching the sea coast, but internally resolved to avoid the Emperor as solicitously as I affected to seek him.
Fez is the finest town I have seen in Africa; I shall endeavour to describe it as minutely as the shortness of my stay there will permit.
Description of el-Fez — Markets, monuments, gardens, police — Mequinaz — Inhospitality — Arm of the sea called Sbo — Arbata or Rabat, the ancient Sallee — Visit to the Consular Agent — The traveller avoids the camp of the Emperor of Morocco — Writes to the Vice Consul M. Delaporte — Larache — Arrives at Tangier 7th of September, almost dying, emaciated by want, fatigue, and fever — Generous reception of M. Delaporte — Anxiety of the traveller — Is introduced by night and concealed by the Consul — M. Delaporte obtains from the naval commander of the Cadiz station a vessel to convey him to France.
El-Fez, so called by its inhabitants, but designated on the maps by the name of Fez, is a large city belonging to the empire of Morocco, of which it was formerly the capital. It is situated in a species of natural tunnel formed by lofty well-wooded mountains, whence spring several considerable rivulets, which, after fertilizing the valley, supply the city with excellent water. Every mosque containsjets d’eau, and in several streets there are fountains for the refreshment of the thirsty passenger: here are also several water-mills for grinding corn. The city extends from east to west and must be about four miles in circumference, as far as I could judge from a survey of it from the top of a hill. It is surrounded by a double brick wall, about twelve or thirteen feet high, well constructed and ornamented at intervals with raised copings. I was astonished by the regular architecture of a spacious gateway, in the form of a triumphal arch, through which the city is entered. Under this arch were established a number of venders of provisions.
Within the compass of the outer wall are some gardens, and small low houses, called the suburbs; here I observed some manufactories of Delft ware and tiles. The houses have terraced roofs like those of Timbuctoo, and are built of bricks perfectly well formed and baked in a kiln. Their masonry is not very correct: small, square and strongly grated windows overlook the streets; and the outsides, which are lime-washed, are much out of repair; they have generally a story above the ground-floor, which receives air and light only from an inner court.
The streets are paved, but narrow, winding, dark, and dirty to the last degree; I saw in some places, dogs and cats which had been long dead and emitted a pestilential stench.
These streets are nothing more than galleries covered by trellises or masonry, which deprive them of a free circulation of air, concentrate all the disagreeable effluvia of the city, and render it very unwholesome.
The principal manufactures of Fez are blankets and gunpowder; ploughs and wooden spades are also made there, and the city contains locksmiths, cutlers, shoemakers, tailors, masons, blacksmiths, who likewise act as farriers, and gunsmiths, but the fabrication of their guns falls far short of the perfection of ours.
Shops may be found in most quarters of the town furnished with all sorts of provisions, dried or otherwise; as bread, meat, butter, pastry, fruit, and vegetables. As there are no inns, travellers without acquaintance in the city have no other resource than to buy what they want at these shops, and to carry it to the mosque or to the fandac to eat.
A market is held every day; it is attended by a great concourse of strangers, who come from great distances to sell their commodities: great quantities of dates and tanned leather are brought to this market from Tafilet; the inhabitants of the mountains supply it with honey and wax, of which last candles are made, not only for home consumption, but for large consignments to the principal maritime towns.
For the security of the shops, dogs are every night turned loose into the streets of the market; these animals, trained for the purpose, perform their duty so zealously, that, but for the interference of men who sleep near, they would inevitably devour such passengers as chance or business attract to the spot confided to their charge.
No monument of departed splendour exists at Fez to awaken curiosity or recal the former magnificence of the conquerors of Spain: but it boasts of many mosques, each surmounted by a square tower of about a hundred feet in height, upon which a white flag is hoisted as the signal for prayer. I visited several of them, accompanied by the good-natured negro of Mequinaz; and found them large edifices of an oblong square form, containing several galleries raised upon well-built arcades. The only one which appeared to merit particular attention is called by the Moors Mouladrib, probably from the name of its founder. It is the chief ornament of the city. The interior is preserved with the utmost care; it is paved with small pieces of well varnished Dutch tiles, of various colours and shapes, tastefully arranged in mosaic; and the whole compass of the walls, to the height of two feet and a half, is inlaid in the same manner. The arches which support the roof are of far superior workmanship to those of the other mosques; two of them are raised on finely sculptured marble columns, the other pillars are of brick, covered with plaster. The vaulted ceiling is composed of boards, painted yellow and red, and adorned by a broad band of gold colour forming the cornice. Within a sort of sanctuary, in the middle of the mosque, stands a small altar, covered with a cloth embroidered with flowers in gold; and around it are placed several glass lamps and flambeaux, and near it is a handsome lustre hanging from a gilt cupola; a multitude of suspended lamps are also dispersed throughout the temple, to enlighten the faithful. The thirsty traveller is refreshed by a very beautiful fountain which plays in an inner court and invites numbers to sleep within its cooling influence.
Neither inns nor hotels are to be found in Fez; their place is supplied only by fandacs similar to those which I have already described. Here travellers who possess beasts of burden are obliged to sleep on the ground beside them, and themselves to provide them with forage. They usually take their meals at the mosque, pass the greater part of the day there, and would sleep there if permitted. The proprietors of the fandacs exact six felouses per head for the cattle, a sum equivalent to two French sous.
Two hills, which command the city are defended each by an insignificant fortress, having embrasures but no cannon: one is situated nearly S. E., and the other, in which some prisoners were confined, is to the N. W.
The immediate environs, for two or three miles round, are highly cultivated, and produce abundance of vines, and olive, fig, apple and pear trees; near the wall are mulberry-trees of considerable height. I have seen flower-gardeners selling in the markets a great variety of flowers, similar to those which adorn our parterres in France. At some distance from the town are a great number of little mausoleums, in which the remains of the most distinguished sherifs are deposited.
Fez is computed to contain about twenty thousand inhabitants, all either artificers or traders, who carry on an extensive commerce in European manufactures, which they export to Tafilet and Timbuctoo as well as to the adjacent mountainous countries.
The 14th of August, at seven in the morning, I quitted the fandac and walked through the city with my leathern bag thrown over my shoulder. A long street conducted me to the western gate, where I hired a mule to carry me to Mequinaz; and, our provision for the journey being prepared, we departed, directing our course W. N. W., over a smooth soil composed of very good mould but uncultivated. I remarked several tents of wandering Arabs pitched beside a little river formed by the junction of the rivulets which water the environs of Fez. Our road, which was very uneven, lay between two ridges of barren hills, and crossed several well constructed bridges.
About two o’clock we rested under a bridge which sheltered us from the sun. We had in our company two women who, being under no restraint, shewed but little solicitude to conceal their fair complexions and pretty faces beneath their veils; one of them rode on my mule behind me; and I presume that my attentions were agreeable to her, as she offered me a slice of melon and a bit of bread which I accepted with pleasure. Our pretty fellow-travellers, however, learning that the Emperor had set out for Rabat, returned to Fez, and I continued my route with my guide alone; our mules keeping up so good a pace that I estimated our progress at four miles an hour.
At five in the morning we arrived at Mequinaz, the streets of which city were as dirty and narrow as those of Fez; and, entering a fandac, I begged to be allowed to sleep in a stable, a favour which the master refused in the rudest manner. Turning from a place which offered so little hospitality to an unfortunate stranger, I sought refuge in the mosque, the asylum of the indigent: there I hoped to repose in peace till the morning; but alas! I was disappointed. About ten at night an old bamâb (porter) came to me, and kicking me, roughly desired me in a hoarse voice to rise and begone, for he was about to shut up. In vain I represented myself as a stranger not knowing whither to go, and implored him to allow me to pass the night in this retreat: without the least regard to my situation he compelled me to leave the mosque. Such conduct ought not to have surprised me, for in this part of Africa, as in some other more civilized countries, men are distinguished only by their apparel, and it must be confessed that mine did not plead in my favour; but I considered that it would be highly imprudent to study my dress: my rags excited no attention, and this livery of poverty served as a veil with which prudence required that I should still envelop myself.
I possessed some pieces of silver and four buckles made of gold from the mines of Bouré; but, as it would have been dangerous to shew them, I took my bag upon my shoulder, and left the mosque, uncertain where to find repose for my sick and wearied frame. For a short time I wandered about the streets meditating on my forlorn condition, and, oppressed by the recollection of the humiliations, fatigues, and privations which I had already endured, and by the chilling sense of those which I still experienced, I could not altogether suppress my tears. Let me hope this weakness was excusable in my disastrous situation: it was within sight of the desired haven that I was most in danger of shipwreck. With a heart sinking under these reflections, I sought shelter in the shop of a dealer in vegetables, who, taking me at first for a Berber, would not suffer my intrusion; when, however, I told him that I was an Arab, he left me in tranquillity to pass the night on the ground. Laying my head on the leather bag which contained my notes, I enjoyed a short forgetfulness of misery, but was soon awakened by the cold, and sleep solaced me no more during the night.
August the 15th, at six in the morning, hastily quitting this inhospitable place, I resumed my journey towards Rabat on foot, carrying my bag, and but scantily provided with food.
Beyond the town I passed some gardens, and several plots of well cultivated hemp. I soon discovered that it would be impossible for me to reach Rabat on foot, for my limbs had scarcely strength to support me, and the pain which I felt in the spleen was aggravated by fatigue. Resting therefore for a moment against a wall I considered how I should proceed, and finally determined upon returning to the town. Taking my purse out of my bag, and observing with sorrow that its contents were much diminished, I was nevertheless under the necessity of abstracting a few shillings from what remained, proposing to change them on my return to Mequinaz, to procure me a conveyance. Inadvertently I laid my knife and pocket-compass on the ground beside me and forgot them. Much grieved by their loss, I returned from the city to seek them, but unhappily in vain. As I again approached the city I saw several Spaniards, who had been shipwrecked on the coast, followed by a crowd of Moors, and escorted by soldiers, armed with sticks for the purpose of preventing the pressure of the crowd; they were being conducted to the Emperor, and I remarked with pleasure that they were not ill-treated. A Jew, who spoke the Spanish language acted as their interpreter. I followed them a short distance, but, finding it impossible to penetrate to them, returned towards the market, and seated myself at the door of a Berber, who, perceiving that I was suffering pain, asked me who I was and what ailed me: I told him my story, which, like all his countrymen, he believed. Having imparted to him my intention of hiring a conveyance to Rabat, in the hope of seeing the Emperor and applying to him for assistance to enable me to return to my own country, this good Berber induced me to place my bag in his shop and promised himself to negociate with the muleteer for the fulfilment of my wishes.
In the course of the day, I visited the fandacs, and there met with a man from Tafilet, who proposed to me to hire an ass for my conveyance to Rabat. I took him to the Berber, and, having agreed upon the price, which was fixed at a piastre and three quarters, I paid him the earnest; we were to set out the following day. In the evening I bought some fruit and bread for my guide and myself.
On the 16th of August, at six in the morning, I mounted my ass, not without the assistance of my guide, which on account of my weakness I was unable to dispense with: we travelled due north for about an hour, then turned N. W. till nine in the morning. The route is interrupted by hills, and turns a little to the south. About two o’clock we halted under the shade of a zizyphus lotus, to repose during the extreme heat: at three we resumed our route to the north, till half-past four, and then proceeded N. W. On the road we met a traveller in the utmost distress on account of the death of his horse, for, besides the inconvenience of prosecuting his journey on foot, the poor man was compelled also to carry his saddle to some inhabited place; my guide took pity upon him and placed his saddle behind me, which suited me well, for I was so weak that I could scarcely sit up, and this saddle made a convenient support for my back.
At six in the evening, we reached a considerable brook, which runs S. S. W., and afterwards west, and stopped to slake our thirst at it. I had been suffering from fever nearly the whole day, and the heat had been overpowering; I now lay down to take a short repose. During this halt, the Moor, who was not the owner of the horse he had lost, obtained from a sherif a certificate of its death: the sherif, having interrogated me in common with the other witnesses of the event, gave on our evidence the writing which testified that the horse had died without any fault on the part of its rider.
At sun-set, after having eaten some figs given us by the Berbers, we proceeded northwards till eight o’clock, when we reached a camp, provided with a tent that served as a mosque, and was destined also for the reception of travellers; we took up our quarters in it, and the inhabitants of the camp brought us supper. This spot is covered with prickly shrubs.
At two o’clock in the morning of the 17th, we quitted this hospitable camp; for half an hour we were followed by a troop of nearly thirty dogs, which barked incessantly, and even bit our beasts. At five o’clock, turning to the N. W. we proceeded over level ground covered with a fine vegetation. Towards eight in the morning, we halted for an hour beside a well, where we breakfasted upon fresh bread, and some water-melons which we had found in the fields. After this rural repast we drank some pretty good water, which we were able to take up by hand, the wells being shallow. We continued our route to the N. W., and at eleven o’clock, the heat being violent, again halted under a beautiful clump of fig-trees, where several travellers were sleeping; we rested till noon, my guide, who was sufficiently complaisant, having some consideration for my illness. After this short repose we proceeded still towards the N. W. till threeP. M.when our direction turned E. S. E.; we now journeyed over loose sand. At half-past two we stopped before a camp of soldiers, who were on their march to rejoin the emperor; they had pitched their tents near an arm of the sea, which my guide told me was called Sbo.[22]To my great surprise tolerable order was preserved in this camp: the centinels were placed at equal distances from each other, but they slept the whole night; the chiefs were lodged in handsome tents, having a centinel at the door, and soldiers around them. The women of the neighbouring districts supplied them with bread.
On the 18th, at three in the morning, we set forward, crossing the camp, where the soldiers were still all asleep; but one, waking up with a start, exclaimed: “Who goes there?†This did not however interrupt our progress. Farther on we encountered the advanced guard, also asleep, but our noise disturbed them, and waking up they inquired who we were and whither we were going: upon receiving our answer they permitted us to pass through the midst of them, for there was no other road, and it was necessary to cross a bridge. We proceeded by a fine road to the S. W.; the soil composed of grey sand is naturally fertile. At eight in the morning we halted to take a slight repast of bread and some nuts purchased at Mequinaz, and ate it in peace beside a well. We continued our route to the S. W. over a soil similar to that which I noticed over-night, and arrived at an arm of the sea on the opposite shore of which Rabat is situated; here I saw several Portuguese vessels. The vine flourishes in the environs of this town, and the fields are well cultivated.
Upon entering Rabat, I proceeded with my guide to the fandac, where I rested awhile and then set out to walk through the town in hopes of finding the French consul, for I concluded that there would be one here. I held some shillings in my hand, by means of which I proposed without committing myself to find the consular house. I begged several Moors to change them for me, knowing that they would not (for they have little complaisance) but I foresaw that they would refer me to a christian, to whom I hoped by this innocent stratagem to be enabled to speak without exciting suspicion. In fact, the first Moor whom I requested to change my shillings for the coin of the country directed me to the christians; I took advantage of this circumstance to inquire for the French consul, saying, that the money was French, and he, having no suspicion of me, immediately pointed out the consul’s residence. I knocked at the door, and was thrilled with joy at the thought of being about to see a Frenchman.
A Jew, who spoke tolerable English, opened the door; he told me that the consul was at this moment with the sultan, but that he would soon return. I retired for a short time, and on my second application was by the same Jew presented to the French consul at Rabat. Gracious God! how was I disconcerted, when I found that he was himself a Jew! I was so thunderstruck that I remained for a moment speechless; meanwhile he addressed me in pretty good French, inquiring what I wanted with him: recovering a little from my stupefying surprise, I shewed him my shillings and begged him to change them; an English merchant who chanced to be with him, and to whom I confided my secret, assured me that I might safely communicate to the Jew the true cause of my application to him. I then told the consular agent that I wished to converse with him for a moment in private, upon which he shewed me into his warehouse and seated me upon the floor. There I informed him that I was a Frenchman, that I came from the Soudan, and that, desiring to return to my own country, I claimed the protection due to a subject of the King of France. The Jew asked if I had any papers, and if I was travelling by order of the government: having satisfied him on all these points, he opened a French book of geography, and pointed out upon a map the Senegal and other districts, no doubt to display his learning: he then shewed a letter from M. Sourdeau, consul-general of the King of France, announcing his nomination to the dignity of consular agent at Rabat; but he gave me to understand that he received no pay, and that in consequence I was not to expect much assistance from him; then dismissing me, he recommended me strongly not to make myself known if I valued my head; for, added he, the Moors are no triflers on the subject of religion.
I then returned to the fandac, leaving with the consular agent ten shillings, which he refused to change; he gave me however on account, three dragmes (twenty four sous) for the supply of my most urgent wants during the following days. I made my guide purchase a piece of roasted mutton and two small loaves, which I divided with him; resolving however that this should be my last repast in his company: not that he had been deficient in complaisance to me, but, convinced that I must be extremely desirous of an interview with the sultan his master, he was perpetually endeavouring to pursuade me to solicit one. I had exhausted all my pretences for delaying this step; and had sufficient reason to beware of presenting myself before the African monarch, who, more suspicious than his subjects, would in all probability have proved more clear-sighted.
I quitted the fandac therefore, and passed the day at the corner of a street; where I hoped to spend the night with equal tranquillity, and lying down enveloped myself in my large wrapper. I was invoking sleep, the friend of the unfortunate, when a dozen dogs began to bark furiously at me, and I should certainly have fallen a prey to these animals, had I not been promptly assisted by one of those men, who are posted in the streets at night expressly to rescue passengers from their attacks. This man inquired who I was; “I am an Arab, a stranger here,†replied I, “on my return to Alexandria my native country.†Upon this he placed me in a small recess near which he slept himself; arming me with a strong bamboo cane to drive away the dogs, if they should trouble me again; a very judicious precaution, for these creatures, apparently conscious that I was a stranger, never ceased throughout the night annoying me with their menacing cries. I would gladly have slept at a fandac, but for the expense of three paras per night, and the risk of insults from the muleteers. Consulting my poverty, and uncertain when I should be able to obtain assistance from the French Consul, I determined to be as saving as possible and to sleep under the canopy of heaven. Henceforth, I sought repose in a cemetery, situated to the west of the town on the sea-shore, where, peacefully extended at the foot of a mausoleum, I was neither tormented by men nor dogs. During the day I remained at the corners of the streets, sometimes repairing to the mosques to take my melancholy meals, consisting of a little bread and a bunch of grapes, to which I occasionally ventured to add from my scanty resources a small piece of fried fish. As the wells of Rabat are brackish, I was obliged to beg water from the Moors who seldom refused me. Such was the kind of life which I led, during the whole of my residence at Rabat, while waiting for an opportunity to proceed to Tangier to the French Consul. I now and then saw Ismael, the Jew agent of the consulate, who gave me some small coins of the country, on the security of the ten shillings with which I had entrusted him. One day, finding him at home at breakfast, I was invited to sit upon the floor and partake of his tea. I entreated him to procure for me some means of travelling to Tangier; promising to reimburse him as soon as I should reach the consul; but the Jew, fearing no doubt that this would be disapproved by his superior, drily refused. Seeing that nothing was to be gained from this man, not even permission to embark on board a Portuguese brig, bound for Gibraltar, I was about to write to M. Sourdeau, Consul-general at Morocco, when Ismael received a letter from Tangier informing him of this gentleman’s death; I therefore addressed myself to the Vice-Consul M. Delaporte, on whom the direction of the consulate had devolved; but an opportunity of going to Tangier occurring during the interval, while I awaited his answer, I hired an ass to carry me thither, for my legs would no longer support me.
On the 2nd of September, I quitted Rabat with the owner my ass, the most worthless man I had met with in this country. The poor beast destined to carry me, was already oppressed by a heavy burthen, and sunk at every step up to his knees in the loose sand of the sea-shore; I had therefore no alternative but to dismount, and though I had paid a good price for my conveyance, and was scarcely able to drag myself along, was obliged to perform half the journey on foot, while my unworthy guide rode forward with the utmost indifference. On reaching the place appointed for the halt, I threw myself down under a tree, and wrapped up in my old blanket, suffered there a violent attack of fever, produced by fatigue and exhaustion. Towards seven in the evening, my guide brought me a handful of couscous, which had been given him by some Arabs near whom we had encamped.
At Larache I saw two vessels cruising, and little thought that one of them would shortly bear me from this frightful country. I ascended with difficulty the hills in the vicinity of Tangier, and at length, ill, and worn out with fatigue, I arrived in that town on the 7th of September, at nightfall.
As I entered on foot the centinel took no notice of me, and I thus fortunately escaped an explanation with the governor of the town, which might have thrown some obstacles in the way of my departure, or even have involved me in destruction. I deposited my bag at the fandac, and the same evening explored the town in search of the French Consulate. I saw many flag-staves, but could not for the darkness distinguish that of my own nation. The moment was most critical. I dared not to address myself to a Musulman, who would infallibly have asked what concern I had with the christians: and if my intentions had been discovered I should have lost all hope of restoration to my country. I lay at the fandac, and passed the night in extreme agitation. In the morning I again repaired to the street where I had seen the flags, and perceived an open door, near which stood a christian; looking carefully round, to ascertain that I was not observed, I accosted him in English, inquiring for the residence of the British Consul. “This is it,†replied he; but, fearful of attracting notice, by conversing too long outside the door, I would have entered the house, to ask a direction to the French Consulate; but this man, who I supposed was a domestic, repulsed me with horror, on account of my dirty and disfigured appearance. I inquired for the residence of the French Consul, and he bluntly answered, “He is dead,†but at the same time called a Jew, who directed me to the door of the Vice-Consul, and with an air of curiosity, asked who I was, and what I wanted with a Christian; I retreated without answering, trembling with the dread of detection. When all whose observation I had excited had passed on, I returned to the Vice-Consul’s door, which, being opened, I entered the house: a Jewess called M. Delaporte who received me with the greatest kindness, and conducted me up stairs to an apartment where I was entirely concealed from view. I comprehended the full extent of the danger which surrounded me, from the fear which M. Delaporte expressed of the difficulties which must embarrass my departure from this country; but, speedily laying aside any uneasiness relative to my present situation, he gave free vent to the joy with which my almost miraculous escape from the dangers of so arduous a journey inspired him, and in his transports even embraced me, pressing me closely to his arms, notwithstanding the dirty rags in which I was clad: I cannot indeed speak too warmly of the benevolent reception which I experienced from this generous man. After enjoying a breakfast from his hospitality I found myself, with great regret, obliged to depart, though we had not yet determined on any means for rescuing me from my present embarrassing situation. No sooner had I set foot in the street than I most inconveniently encountered my muleteer, who, seeing me come out of a house, inquired where I had been; at first I felt a little confused, but quickly recovering I told him that a charitable priest had given me a breakfast in that house. I returned to the fandac, and did not leave it again that day, apprehensive of exciting attention, as those by whom I had been seen had inquired whether I was a renegado.
I passed the night in contriving means to obtain another interview with the Vice-Consul In the morning the master of the fandac came to demand three felusses for my night’s lodging in his stable, and then, pushing me by the shoulders, sent me to return thanks to God and the Prophet.
At nightfall I again presented myself at M. Delaporte’s house: as I was entering, the female servant, not recognizing me, ran back uttering a loud cry; this brought from the street the Vice-Consul’s guard who, precipitately entering the house, put his hand upon my shoulder, and demanded who I was, and what I wanted. I was completely disconcerted,. M. Delaporte, being brought down by the noise, knew me, but affected great anger, and spoke very harshly to prevent suspicion. “Turn out this dog of a beggar,†said he, “what can he want here? begone!†The soldier still asking what I wanted, I examined the house as though in doubt; and saying, “What! does not Sidi-Mohammed reside here? I fear I have made a mistake,†I retired; the soldier following me a short distance, but by favour of the night I easily escaped him. On my return to the fandac I threw myself upon the ground, to recover from the emotion which this untoward accident had occasioned. After an hour’s repose, I again repaired to the street where M. Delaporte resided, hoping that he would send some one to me with a message of encouragement; but I saw no one. I passed another agitated night, sleeping little; and at day-break took my station in front of the Vice-Consul’s house to seek a decisive interview with him, the suspense in which I continued having become insupportable. I seated myself at the door of a poor shoemaker, to watch the moment when I might enter the house without observation. The Jewish maid servant, who had been so unfortunately alarmed the preceding evening, recognized me: and, having given notice to M. Delaporte, made me a sign to come in. The Vice-Consul obligingly expressed his regret for the unpleasant scene of the preceding evening; he did not dissemble his apprehensions for me, in case I continued long in my present situation, but could devise no means for my escape; I was still more perplexed, as without his assistance I should find it impossible to quit the country. Seeing me resolved to extricate myself as speedily as possible from this state of distress and anxiety, M. Delaporte fixed an hour of the night for my return to the consulate, to quit it no more till I should be enabled to embark for Europe. I spent the remainder of the day at the fandac, and that my sudden disappearance might occasion no surprise amongst its inmates, I apprised them that I intended to proceed to Taone on my route to Algiers. When it was quite dark, I rolled my bag in my wrapper to screen it from observation, and repaired to the appointed spot, where I immediately saw M. Delaporte and a Jew, who came to conduct me to my destined asylum. I was admitted to the Consular residence by a back door, and led to a good chamber, where M. Delaporte presently sent me a European dress, for which I gladly exchanged the dirty rags I had so long worn: he then visited me in my new apartment, and expressed the greatest satisfaction at seeing me in a place of safety.
After returning thanks to Almighty God, I lay down upon a good bed, rejoicing in my escape from the society of men debased by ignorance and fanaticism. Though all my wants were relieved, I found it impossible to close my eyes the whole night, so much was I agitated by the remembrance of the perils I had passed through. During my whole residence at the Consulate, M. Delaporte came many times each day to see and converse with me; he treated me as his own son, and indeed lavished on me all the cares of the tenderest father.
It would be difficult to describe my sensations on casting off for ever my Arab costume; I retraced in my memory all the privations and fatigues I had endured, and the length of route I had traversed in a wild country, amidst a thousand dangers. I blessed God for my arrival in port; but I believed myself in a dream, and asked if it was indeed true that I might soon be restored to my country, or whether this enchanting hope was but a delusion.
M. Delaporte neglected nothing that could contribute to the re-establishment of my impaired health, and the wholesome nourishment he gave me effected a decided improvement; but I was still frequently attacked by paroxysms of fever which kept me in a state of extreme weakness. During my abode in the consulate I was occupied in arranging my notes.
Besides the frequent and agreeable visits of the Vice-Consul, I received also those of a Jew domestic to whom the secret of my seclusion was confided: this man, though a Frenchman, was thoroughly imbued with the principles of his race and had no ideas but for the advancement of his interests. He undoubtedly believed that my views were the same, and advised me to carry the fruits of my travels to England; representing to me that this nation had offered a reward of twenty-five thousand pounds sterling for the accomplishment of the journey to Timbuctoo. Instead of listening to so contemptible a proposition, I replied, that I was a Frenchman, and added: “The recompence to be derived from the French government would undoubtedly be less considerable; but I should not hesitate a single moment to offer to my native country and my king the homage of my modest labours.â€
The excellent M. Delaporte wrote very pressingly to the commander of the French station off Cadiz, describing in lively colours the dangers to which I was exposed by a longer residence in this place. The commander, determined by his solicitations, sent one of the king’s sloops to Tangier to convey me to Toulon.
On the 27th of September 1828, a little before sunset, a sailor’s dress was sent me as a more convenient disguise. A Moor inquired who I was, saying that he had not seen me disembark with the others; the Jew, who attended me, answered that I was a Frenchman from Tetuan, returning to France, and the Moor made no farther remark. I embarked on board the sloopLa Légère, suffering much from fever, and the Commander Jolivet supplied me with every thing necessary in my situation.
On the 28th, at six in the morning, we set sail with a fair wind, and to my great satisfaction soon lost sight of Tangier. M. Jolivet’s cares had a beneficial effect upon my health; the fever left me, and the fine sea-breezes soon completed my recovery. We arrived at Toulon after a very favourable voyage of ten days.
Those who have been long absent from their native land, and have good cause to fear that they may never return, can alone form an idea of my sensations on my restoration to my beloved country. While in quarantine I wrote to M. Jomard, President of the central commission of the Geographical Society, to announce my travels to him. I soon after received, as the first proof of the benevolent interest of this learned association, the sum of five hundred francs, to defray the expenses of my journey to Paris: nor was it long before I enjoyed the glorious reward of its merited approbation. The society applauded my zeal, and awarded to me the recompense promised to the first traveller who should penetrate to the mysterious town of Timbuctoo, and bring from thence his authentic observations. The government graciously received the Society’s report upon my travels, and soon bestowed upon me distinguished marks of its munificence and honourable protection.
But this flattering success raised adversaries against me: some alleged that I had never reached Timbuctoo; others, that I had been shipwrecked on the coast of Barbary, and, having obtained possession of some vague intelligence respecting the interior of the country, had imposed it upon the public for the results of my personal observations. I have been even accused of changing my religionat every station. To this malevolent imputation, I answer: that I externally adopted the forms of the Mahometan worship as the only means of penetrating into the countries through which I have travelled—an achievement which, without this acquiescence, would have been impracticable, except by encountering at every step the hazard of death, and inevitably suffering it at last. I must confess that these unjust attacks have affected me more sensibly than all the hardships, fatigues, and privations, which I have encountered in the interior of Africa.