'The little more, and how much it is,And the little less and what worlds away.'
'The little more, and how much it is,And the little less and what worlds away.'
'The little more, and how much it is,
And the little less and what worlds away.'
"Mountaineering is not dangerous, provided that the climber knows his business and takes the necessary precautions—all within his own control—to make danger impossible. The prudent climber will recollect what he owes to his family and to his friends. He will also recollect that he owes something to the Alps, and will scorn to bring them into disrepute. He will not go on a glacier without a rope. He will not climb alone, or with a single companion. He will treat a great mountain with the respect it deserves, and not try to rush a dangerous peak with inadequate guiding power. He will turn his back steadfastly upon mist and storm. He will not go where avalanches are in the habit of falling after fresh snow, or wander about beneath an overhanging glacier in the heat of a summer afternoon. Above all, if he loves the mountains for their own sake, for the lessons they can teach and the happiness they can bring, he will do nothing that can discredit his manly pursuit or bring down the ridicule of the undiscerning upon the noblest pastime in the world."
ALPINE DISTRESS SIGNALS
No book on climbing should be issued without a reminder to its readers that tourists (who may need it even oftener than mountaineers) have a means ready to hand by which help can be signalled for if they are in difficulties. That in many cases a signal might not be seen is no reason for neglecting to learn and use the simple code given below and recommended by the Alpine Club. It has now been adopted by all societies of climbers.
The signal is the repetition of a sound, a wave of a flag, or a flash of a lanternat regular intervalsat the rate of six signals per minute, followed by a pause of a minute, and then repeated every alternate minute. The reply is the same, except that three and not six signals are made in a minute. The regular minute's interval is essential to the clearness of the code.
AAlbula Pass,20Aletsch glacier,12,142Almer, Christian,29,50,51,71,126,134Almer, Ulrich,42Altels, Ice-avalanche of the,78Anderegg, Jacob,162Anderegg, Melchior,24,50,113,162d'Angeville, Mademoiselle,204Ardon,59Arkwright, Henry,98Aufdemblatten, Peter,269Avalanches, different kinds of,15BBalmat,52Barnes, Mr G. S.,32Bean, Mr,108Bennen,59,113,252Bich, J. B.,262Bionnassay, Aiguille de,169Birkbeck, Mr,113Blanc, Mont,3,92,107,162,203Bohren,52Boissonnet, Monsieur,59Borchart, Dr,150Borckhardt, F. C.,269Bossons, Glacier des,9Breil,253Brenva Glacier, Ascent of Mont Blanc by,162Burckhardt, Herr F.,147Burgener, Alexander,226CCarré, Glacier,172Carrel, J. A.,252,259,261, death of,280Coolidge, Rev. W. A. B.,30,171Couttet, Sylvain,89,99,109Croda Grande, feat of endurance on,48Croz, Michel,126,134,252DDavies, John,269Dent, Clinton,58,221Douglas, Lord Francis,45,259Distress Signals, Alpine,291Dru, Aiguille du,221EEigerjoch,208FFalkner, Monsieur de,269Föhn Wind, Note on the,80GGabelhorn, Ober,42,45Gardiner, Mr,170Garwood, Mr Edmund,194Glacier tables,11Gorret, Charles,281Gosaldo,48Gosset, Mr Philip,59Grass, Hans and Christian,44Greenland, Glaciers of,7Guntner, Dr,33HHadow, Mr,260Hamel, Dr Joseph,92Hartley, Mr Walker,226Haut-de-Cry,59Hinchliff, Mr T. W.,122Hudson, Rev. C.,113,269IImboden, Joseph,5,30,35,38,40,84Imboden, Roman,32,84,194JJungfrau,147KKing, Sir H. Seymour,278Klimmer,150Kronig, F.,269LLammer, Herr,72Lauener,41,52,66,208Longman, W.,142Lorria, Herr,72MM'Corkindale, Mr,108Mammoth,105Maquignaz, J. P. and D.,269Martin, Jean,154Mather, Mr,113Mathews, Mr C. E.,289Mathews, Messrs,208Matterhorn,23,72,250Maurer, Andreas,46,226Maurer, Kaspar,239Meije,170Mercer, Mr,269Miage, Col de,114Moming, Pass,126Moore, Mr,126,134,162Moraines,10Moser,269NNasse, Herr,150PPalü, Piz,44,150Paradis, Maria,203Penhall, Mr,72Perren,113Pigeon, The Misses,153Pilatte, Col de,134Pilkington, Messrs,170Plan, Aiguille du,46RRandall, Mr,108Rey, Emile,46Reynaud, Monsieur,135Richardson, Miss K.,169Riva, Valley Susa,18Rochat, Mademoiselle E. de,169SSaas, Prättigau,17Schallihorn,83Schnitzler,150Schuster, Oscar,48Scerscen, Piz,194Sesia, Joch,153Sinigaglia, Leone,281Stephen, Sir Leslie,113,208Stratton, Miss,206TTaugwald, Peter,269Taugwalder,259Trift Pass,112Tuckett, Mr F. F.,66,113WWainwright, Mrs and Dr,44Walker, Mr,50,134,162Wetterhorn,51Wieland,194Wills, Chief Justice,51Whymper, Mr C.,126,134,250ZZecchini, G.,48
A
Albula Pass,20
Aletsch glacier,12,142
Almer, Christian,29,50,51,71,126,134
Almer, Ulrich,42
Altels, Ice-avalanche of the,78
Anderegg, Jacob,162
Anderegg, Melchior,24,50,113,162
d'Angeville, Mademoiselle,204
Ardon,59
Arkwright, Henry,98
Aufdemblatten, Peter,269
Avalanches, different kinds of,15
B
Balmat,52
Barnes, Mr G. S.,32
Bean, Mr,108
Bennen,59,113,252
Bich, J. B.,262
Bionnassay, Aiguille de,169
Birkbeck, Mr,113
Blanc, Mont,3,92,107,162,203
Bohren,52
Boissonnet, Monsieur,59
Borchart, Dr,150
Borckhardt, F. C.,269
Bossons, Glacier des,9
Breil,253
Brenva Glacier, Ascent of Mont Blanc by,162
Burckhardt, Herr F.,147
Burgener, Alexander,226
C
Carré, Glacier,172
Carrel, J. A.,252,259,261, death of,280
Coolidge, Rev. W. A. B.,30,171
Couttet, Sylvain,89,99,109
Croda Grande, feat of endurance on,48
Croz, Michel,126,134,252
D
Davies, John,269
Dent, Clinton,58,221
Douglas, Lord Francis,45,259
Distress Signals, Alpine,291
Dru, Aiguille du,221
E
Eigerjoch,208
F
Falkner, Monsieur de,269
Föhn Wind, Note on the,80
G
Gabelhorn, Ober,42,45
Gardiner, Mr,170
Garwood, Mr Edmund,194
Glacier tables,11
Gorret, Charles,281
Gosaldo,48
Gosset, Mr Philip,59
Grass, Hans and Christian,44
Greenland, Glaciers of,7
Guntner, Dr,33
H
Hadow, Mr,260
Hamel, Dr Joseph,92
Hartley, Mr Walker,226
Haut-de-Cry,59
Hinchliff, Mr T. W.,122
Hudson, Rev. C.,113,269
I
Imboden, Joseph,5,30,35,38,40,84
Imboden, Roman,32,84,194
J
Jungfrau,147
K
King, Sir H. Seymour,278
Klimmer,150
Kronig, F.,269
L
Lammer, Herr,72
Lauener,41,52,66,208
Longman, W.,142
Lorria, Herr,72
M
M'Corkindale, Mr,108
Mammoth,105
Maquignaz, J. P. and D.,269
Martin, Jean,154
Mather, Mr,113
Mathews, Mr C. E.,289
Mathews, Messrs,208
Matterhorn,23,72,250
Maurer, Andreas,46,226
Maurer, Kaspar,239
Meije,170
Mercer, Mr,269
Miage, Col de,114
Moming, Pass,126
Moore, Mr,126,134,162
Moraines,10
Moser,269
N
Nasse, Herr,150
P
Palü, Piz,44,150
Paradis, Maria,203
Penhall, Mr,72
Perren,113
Pigeon, The Misses,153
Pilatte, Col de,134
Pilkington, Messrs,170
Plan, Aiguille du,46
R
Randall, Mr,108
Rey, Emile,46
Reynaud, Monsieur,135
Richardson, Miss K.,169
Riva, Valley Susa,18
Rochat, Mademoiselle E. de,169
S
Saas, Prättigau,17
Schallihorn,83
Schnitzler,150
Schuster, Oscar,48
Scerscen, Piz,194
Sesia, Joch,153
Sinigaglia, Leone,281
Stephen, Sir Leslie,113,208
Stratton, Miss,206
T
Taugwald, Peter,269
Taugwalder,259
Trift Pass,112
Tuckett, Mr F. F.,66,113
W
Wainwright, Mrs and Dr,44
Walker, Mr,50,134,162
Wetterhorn,51
Wieland,194
Wills, Chief Justice,51
Whymper, Mr C.,126,134,250
Z
Zecchini, G.,48
Printed atThe Edinburgh Press9 & 11 Young Street
FOOTNOTES[1]"We are all lost."[2]The exact origin of theföhnwind is still disputed. It is thought to have no connection with the sirocco, a wind which in Europe blows always from the south, bears with it sometimes particles of sand, and is impregnated with damp from its passage over the Mediterranean. Theföhnblows from any quarter (though usually from the south), and is a dry, warm wind, which causes the snow to melt rapidly. In German Switzerland it is called theSchneefresser, or Snow Devourer, and it has been said that if noföhnvisited the Alps, Switzerland would still be in the glacial period.[3]The Annals of Mont Blanc, by C. E. Mathews.[4]The responsibility did not rest with Croz. His part was to advise, but not to direct.[5]The summit of the pass has been marked on Dufour's map, 3793 mètres, or 12,444 feet.[6]These snow-cornices are common on the crests of high mountain ridges, and it is always prudent (just before arriving upon the summit of a mountain or ridge), tosoundwith the alpenstock, that is to say, drive it in, to discover whether there is one or not. Men have often narrowly escaped losing their lives from neglecting this precaution.These cornices are frequently rolled round in a volute, and sometimes take extravagant forms.[7]The upper part of the southern side of the Col de Pilatte, and the small glaciers spoken of onp. 211, can be seen from the high road leading from Briançon to Mont Dauphin, between the 12th and 13th kilomètre stones (from Briançon).[8]In the early days of mountaineering it was the custom to pass the rope through a ring or spring-hook attached to a strong leather belt, instead of, as now, attaching it in a loop round the body of each climber.[9]The remains of this rope hung for years where Mr Pilkington had placed it, and when I ascended the Meije I saw the bleached end of it hanging over as sickening looking a place as I have ever desired to avoid. The ordinary route passes more to the west.[10]It has transpired since that our judgment happened to be right in this matter, and we might probably have saved an hour or more at this part of the ascent.[11]Not at all an unusual proceeding, even between born mountaineers. I wish to convey the impression that Croz was using all pains, rather than to indicate inability on the part of Mr Hadow. The insertion of the word "absolutely" makes the passage, perhaps, rather ambiguous. I retain it now in order to offer the above explanation.[12]At the moment of the accident Croz, Hadow, and Hudson were close together. Between Hudson and Lord Francis Douglas the rope was all but taut, and the same between all the others who were above. Croz was standing by the side of a rock which afforded good hold, and if he had been aware, or had suspected that anything was about to occur, he might and would have gripped it, and would have prevented any mischief. He was taken totally by surprise. Mr Hadow slipped off his feet on to his back, his feet struck Croz in the small of the back, and knocked him right over, head first. Croz's axe was out of his reach, and without it he managed to get his head uppermost before he disappeared from our sight. If it had been in his hand I have no doubt that he would have stopped himself and Mr Hadow. Mr Hadow, at the moment of the slip, was not occupying a bad position. He could have moved either up or down, and could touch with his hand the rock of which I have spoken. Hudson was not so well placed, but he had liberty of motion. The rope was not taut from him to Hadow, and the two men fell 10 or 12 feet before the jerk came upon him. Lord Francis Douglas was not favourably placed, and could neither move up nor down. Old Peter was firmly planted, and stood just beneath a large rock, which he hugged with both arms. I enter into these details to make it more apparent that the position occupied by the party at the moment of the accident was not by any means excessively trying. We were compelled to pass over the exact spot where the slip occurred, and we found—even with shaken nerves—thatitwas not a difficult place to pass. I have described theslope generallyas difficult, and it is so undoubtedly to most persons, but it must be distinctly understood that Mr Hadow slipped at a comparatively easy part.[13]Or, more correctly, we held on as tightly as possible. There was no time to change our position.[14]Here the whole contention that the party was a competent one falls to the ground. No one without a reserve of strength and skill to meet possible bad weather should embark on an important ascent. Fair-weather guides and climbers should keep to easy excursions.[15]The exact date of his birth does not seem to be known. He was christened at the Church of St Antoine, Val Tournanche, on 17th January 1829.[16]Signor Peraldo, the innkeeper at Breuil, stated that a relief party was in readiness during the whole of 25th August (the day on which the descent was made), and was prevented from starting by the violence of the tempest.[17]SeeTravels amongst the Great Andes of the Equator, 1892.[18]Signor Sinigaglia wrote a letter to a friend, from which I am permitted to quote: "I don't try to tell you of my intense pain for Carrel's death. He fell after having saved me, and no guide could have done more than he did." Charles Gorret, through his brother the Abbé, wrote to me that he entirely endorsed what had been said by Signor Sinigaglia, and added, "We would have given our own lives to have saved his."Jean-Antoine died at the foot of "the little Staircase." On the 26th of August his body was brought to Breuil, and upon 29th it was interred at Valtournanche. At the beginning of July 1893 an iron cross was placed on the spot where he expired at the expense of Signor Sinigaglia, who went in person, along with Charles Gorret, to superintend its erection.
[1]"We are all lost."
[2]The exact origin of theföhnwind is still disputed. It is thought to have no connection with the sirocco, a wind which in Europe blows always from the south, bears with it sometimes particles of sand, and is impregnated with damp from its passage over the Mediterranean. Theföhnblows from any quarter (though usually from the south), and is a dry, warm wind, which causes the snow to melt rapidly. In German Switzerland it is called theSchneefresser, or Snow Devourer, and it has been said that if noföhnvisited the Alps, Switzerland would still be in the glacial period.
[3]The Annals of Mont Blanc, by C. E. Mathews.
[4]The responsibility did not rest with Croz. His part was to advise, but not to direct.
[5]The summit of the pass has been marked on Dufour's map, 3793 mètres, or 12,444 feet.
[6]These snow-cornices are common on the crests of high mountain ridges, and it is always prudent (just before arriving upon the summit of a mountain or ridge), tosoundwith the alpenstock, that is to say, drive it in, to discover whether there is one or not. Men have often narrowly escaped losing their lives from neglecting this precaution.
These cornices are frequently rolled round in a volute, and sometimes take extravagant forms.
[7]The upper part of the southern side of the Col de Pilatte, and the small glaciers spoken of onp. 211, can be seen from the high road leading from Briançon to Mont Dauphin, between the 12th and 13th kilomètre stones (from Briançon).
[8]In the early days of mountaineering it was the custom to pass the rope through a ring or spring-hook attached to a strong leather belt, instead of, as now, attaching it in a loop round the body of each climber.
[9]The remains of this rope hung for years where Mr Pilkington had placed it, and when I ascended the Meije I saw the bleached end of it hanging over as sickening looking a place as I have ever desired to avoid. The ordinary route passes more to the west.
[10]It has transpired since that our judgment happened to be right in this matter, and we might probably have saved an hour or more at this part of the ascent.
[11]Not at all an unusual proceeding, even between born mountaineers. I wish to convey the impression that Croz was using all pains, rather than to indicate inability on the part of Mr Hadow. The insertion of the word "absolutely" makes the passage, perhaps, rather ambiguous. I retain it now in order to offer the above explanation.
[12]At the moment of the accident Croz, Hadow, and Hudson were close together. Between Hudson and Lord Francis Douglas the rope was all but taut, and the same between all the others who were above. Croz was standing by the side of a rock which afforded good hold, and if he had been aware, or had suspected that anything was about to occur, he might and would have gripped it, and would have prevented any mischief. He was taken totally by surprise. Mr Hadow slipped off his feet on to his back, his feet struck Croz in the small of the back, and knocked him right over, head first. Croz's axe was out of his reach, and without it he managed to get his head uppermost before he disappeared from our sight. If it had been in his hand I have no doubt that he would have stopped himself and Mr Hadow. Mr Hadow, at the moment of the slip, was not occupying a bad position. He could have moved either up or down, and could touch with his hand the rock of which I have spoken. Hudson was not so well placed, but he had liberty of motion. The rope was not taut from him to Hadow, and the two men fell 10 or 12 feet before the jerk came upon him. Lord Francis Douglas was not favourably placed, and could neither move up nor down. Old Peter was firmly planted, and stood just beneath a large rock, which he hugged with both arms. I enter into these details to make it more apparent that the position occupied by the party at the moment of the accident was not by any means excessively trying. We were compelled to pass over the exact spot where the slip occurred, and we found—even with shaken nerves—thatitwas not a difficult place to pass. I have described theslope generallyas difficult, and it is so undoubtedly to most persons, but it must be distinctly understood that Mr Hadow slipped at a comparatively easy part.
[13]Or, more correctly, we held on as tightly as possible. There was no time to change our position.
[14]Here the whole contention that the party was a competent one falls to the ground. No one without a reserve of strength and skill to meet possible bad weather should embark on an important ascent. Fair-weather guides and climbers should keep to easy excursions.
[15]The exact date of his birth does not seem to be known. He was christened at the Church of St Antoine, Val Tournanche, on 17th January 1829.
[16]Signor Peraldo, the innkeeper at Breuil, stated that a relief party was in readiness during the whole of 25th August (the day on which the descent was made), and was prevented from starting by the violence of the tempest.
[17]SeeTravels amongst the Great Andes of the Equator, 1892.
[18]Signor Sinigaglia wrote a letter to a friend, from which I am permitted to quote: "I don't try to tell you of my intense pain for Carrel's death. He fell after having saved me, and no guide could have done more than he did." Charles Gorret, through his brother the Abbé, wrote to me that he entirely endorsed what had been said by Signor Sinigaglia, and added, "We would have given our own lives to have saved his."
Jean-Antoine died at the foot of "the little Staircase." On the 26th of August his body was brought to Breuil, and upon 29th it was interred at Valtournanche. At the beginning of July 1893 an iron cross was placed on the spot where he expired at the expense of Signor Sinigaglia, who went in person, along with Charles Gorret, to superintend its erection.