CHAPTER VII.LAKE ITASY AND THE VOLCANIC DISTRICT.
Theseason was now advancing: the dry weather had come, and in the open parts of the country there was little fear of fever. The plans of the mission were pretty fully shaped out: and there were important districts which we had not yet seen. In dividing the country parts of Imerina among the churches of the capital as spheres of Christian labour, the south-western, the district of Imámo, had been allotted to Ambóhitantély. This church and its branches were in the hands of the Friends; who have given to them the most devoted care. During our visit, one of their number, Mr. Clemes, had gone to settle at Antoby near the end of the district. We arranged therefore that we would visit this district first: and Mr. Joseph Sewell, the senior member of the Friends’ Mission, kindly engaged to accompany us.
We left the capital on Tuesday, April 14th, at ten o’clock, having planned to accomplish but a single stage on the first day of the journey. As our route lay along the south border of Imerina, we crossed the Ikopa, and three of its tributaries, and bent our steps towards Antongona, one of the most striking hills in the province. TheSisaony, which we crossed first, is a broad but shallow river, which we had met with higher up, near Ambátomaláza. The Andromba we found a hundred yards broad and four feet deep. The Katsaoka, a few miles beyond was about the same size. Both rivers rise among the eastern roots of Ankárat, and coming round Fandravásana and Kingory, flow across a level, which looks wonderfully like a dried-up lake; and uniting at its western end, flow northward to join the Ikopa, at the foot of Ambohimanoa. Before crossing these rivers we found that the population was sensibly growing thinner.
Antongonais a noble hill of gneiss, running nearly east and west. Its name seems to recognise its resemblance to the human foot. It consist of two sections, and in the centre of the western part is a lofty mass of rocks, round which a number of houses are clustered. We climbed to the summit (570 feet above the plain); obtained important observations: and had a striking view of the country, which lay clear beneath us on every side.
On the second day we rested at Arivonimámo, the former capital of theImamodistrict. It is a small decayed place, with seventy houses. It is surrounded by a deep fosse, and has on its north side a fine specimen of the Malagasy town-gate, with its round stone. In the centre of the little town are some royal tombs, shaded by five noble amóntana trees. All the principal families, once settled here, have removed to the capital and its neighbourhood: and the population is kept up by their dependents and a few aged people past work. The town stands in an open, undulating plain: but it has little population around it.
STONE GATE AT ARIVONIMAMO.
STONE GATE AT ARIVONIMAMO.
STONE GATE AT ARIVONIMAMO.
From Antongona westward the country has many beauties.The hills are bold, lofty and of fine form. The ravines are narrow; and the hills are soft and rich with groves of the tapia tree on which the silkworm lives. Ambóhitrámbo, which from the capital seems merely a noble conical hill, we found to have a long ridge behind it, like the body of the Sphinx. Ambóhimpanómpo, full of ravines and cascades on its northern face, curves round to the south and south-east, in a great ridge covered with boulders. South of Arivonimámo is a low hill, the basaltic stones of which are heavy with iron. Close to its foot, come down some of the long lava tongues that have flowed out from the lofty peaks of Ankáratra, Ambohitsámpan and Tsi-áfak-áfo, twenty miles to the south. Still westward, Iváhanámbo and Tsitákondáza, twin hills of great height, towerabove the country. Beyond them is the noble mass of Vódivóhitra: and between it and Nánza lies one of the prettiest pieces of rural scenery in western Imerina. Journeying onward we began to approach the edge of the Imerina plateau, and were involved in ridges, that rapidly succeeded one another, with deep ravines and gullies between. Throughout the journey we crossed several small rivers, draining the north side of Ankárat, the Ombifotsy, and the Anonibe, which join the Ikopa; and others which fall into Lake Itasy and thence flow down into the western plains. All these results of our observation are carefully embodied in the Map of the district which is one product of our journey.
On the evening of Friday, the fourth day after leaving the capital, we reached the village of Miádanamanjáka. It was on a hill and well raised above the swamps. But it was a dirty place, of sixty-two houses; full of pigs and cattle; and muddy from the heavy rain which fell just before our arrival. The chapel, in which alone we could find accommodation, was very damp and had a great hole in the roof. We put up the tent however inside, spread our waterproof tent carpets, and made ourselves comfortable. Here we spent three days, looking into a variety of matters connected both with the place and with the people.
Saturday we devoted toLake Itasy; and spent a most delightful day examining it. The ridge, upon the end of which the village stands, runs north, and at its highest point overhangs the lake, being 1630 feet above it. From the crest of this ridge we had a fine view of the entire country: and as usual we took a series of observations andphotographed the lake, now lying in all its length before us. Lake Itasy is scarcely known in the geographical world except by name. Its eastern end has been visited on three or four occasions by the English Missionaries; and also by M. Grandidier. The lake possesses many points of interest. One of its most striking features is the noble mountain of Ambóhimíangára, which overhangs its north-east corner. This is one of the grandest among the many grand hills of Imerina. It is twelve miles in length; and its base is over two miles wide: it has three peaks: each of which is fifteen hundred feet above the general level of the plain. It is said to contain a great deal of iron, and has for many generations been resorted to by the people of the neighbourhood for their local implements. Other lofty hills border the lake on the west. Indeed, except on its south bank it is surrounded by hills; and on that side, the swampy level indicated that in former days and when the waters were deeper, the lake extended to a hilly mass now more than two miles from the shore. The lake is not a deep ravine with one end dammed up by rocks (like Nynee Tál), and so filled by the waters accumulated from above. It is a submerged level. At its western end it looks shallow: and the fishing showed it to be shallow: but toward the east, where strong winds produce a current, the lake is deep. Many streams flow into it from the south and east: and it has but one outlet on the north side: the stream from which goes to the west and south-west and falls into the Kitsamby. The lake is eight miles long and two miles and a half broad. It contains six small peninsulas, jutting into the water; on one of which, called Ambóniházo, “wooded hill,” is a little village,with a pretty church, embowered among the trees. The country around it is very bright and green: and under the clear sky, the lake of pale blue was a most pleasant sight. In the afternoon we descended the hill and went down to its western shore. We found there a plain a mile broad, with rice, maize and fruit growing in the fields: with the little village of Moratsiázo and a chapel. Standing on the margin of the lake, we counted nineteen boats or canoes, dotting the water near, each with a separate man, catching with rod and line the fish for which the lake is celebrated. The water is sweet, but it was very dirty. The people of the village received us hospitably: they gave us some excellent guavas; we had a most acceptable tiffin in the chapel; and we left one of our men, who proves to be a good preacher, to conduct service for them on the morrow.
The district we had reached, on the south-west corner of the lake, is called theMandridrano, “sluggish waters.” The drainage of the district is certainly imperfect: there are long levels in the valleys, the outlets of which need artificial enlargement: to these sluggish waters (which they drink) the people attribute the fevers which abound. The population is by no means deficient. The weekly market was attended by some three hundred people. There are several flourishing villages, as Andrainarivo, Tsáravinány and Ambonilouka, within two miles: while beyond Moratsiazo, there are Ambohipólo and Ambohidráno, villages of some size with chapels: and to the west there is a large and fertile basin with a large population, to be more particularly described. The people too are by no means poor. They have plenty to eat and drink:cattle are numerous: fruit is abundant, and rice and maize are fabulously cheap. Mr. Parrett specially noticed during his visit (some years ago), that a bushel of maize, weighing 70 lbs., could be bought for threepence. Three bushels of rice cost ninepence. The market was well supplied with beef, grain and fruit. But the people are extremely ignorant; and the great among them are very consequential. They live in a secluded corner of the country: they have rarely received a visit even from intelligent men among their own nobles: and only by rumours does any thing reach them from the great outside world. It was no wonder therefore that our coming created a sensation. Three Englishmen at once and a village-full of travelled fellow-countrymen quite turned their heads. They were full of curiosity, and watched all that we said and did with keenest eyes. Our folding chairs amused them greatly. Our railway rugs and striped blankets, so thick and warm and bright coloured, appeared to them truly gorgeous. Anything so warm and comfortable as our tent they had never seen. How convenient and full of wealth our boxes. How strong our water-cans; and as to our spoons, cups and enamelled plates, our teapot and our boots, they were wonderful indeed. We had a crowd around the place the whole time.
Five years ago there was only one man west of Arívonimámo, who professed to be a Christian: and he proved to be a pretender. The old heathenism of the country was unbroken. The petty idols, the magical charms, lucky and unlucky days, were regarded with a veneration free from doubt. The sovereign of their country was looked up to, as twenty years ago a Russian peasant regarded theCzar, as God present upon earth. Except in a single case, no faithful Christians fled hither, during the days of persecution, as they fled to Vonizongo. There was no silent teaching, no quiet moulding, of public and social life, by the words and the example of martyrs, which other districts and towns enjoyed. Heathenism remained unchecked, unattacked, unconquered. But when the idols were burned all over Imerina, the superstitious regard of the great people for their Queen, naturally led them to say to their dependents and slaves, “We must pray, as the Queen prays:” and an external change was the result. With it neither the missionaries nor the public authorities had anything to do. It was the act of the people themselves. Heathenism had taught them to follow their sovereign in every thing: and external heathenism was ruined as the result. Mr. Sewell informed us that when he first visited these people, and enquired who had taught them, what did they know, and how they worshipped, he could get no replies. He gave them the best help he could find, little as it was: and it has borne good fruit. They do know something of Christianity now. It is difficult to secure good teachers for them. The district is known to be unhealthy: the people are backward in every thing: life is rough; though food is plentiful. And it is only on the missionary principle of self-denying labour for the Lord’s sake, that native preachers and their wives can be induced to settle among them. One such teacher and his wife we saw at Mahábo. And the bright face, the frank manners, and the clean, white dress, showed in a moment how superior they were in the range of their life and thought to the people among whom their lot was cast.One thing however Mr. Sewell said, had sprung from this great lack of instruction; which he observed more clearly every visit that he paid them. Knowing that others have this instruction, the longing of the people for teachers, for books, for Scriptures, has been intensified. We could see the proof of this ourselves. We had seen the same thing in other parts of the country, and were to see it again. Indeed among all the phenomena of religious life in Madagascar that have come under our own eye, this is the most prominent; that the ignorant multitudes of Malagasy are eager to learn about the Christianity, which the nation has chosen for its faith; and that they make the most attentive and docile scholars that any Christian missionary, English or native, can desire to instruct. We spent a pleasant Sunday among these people. The chapel was well filled: and a large number of very respectably dressed men and women were present. The singing was rough: and a style of bass, which faintly resembles a bombardment, seemed very popular. We often heard this bombarding bass in outlying districts. Mr. Sewell of course conducted the service: and preached the gospel simply and to most attentive listeners in connection with the story of the raising of Lazarus. He also gave away many books in answer to earnest requests. I think there are no parts of our visit to Madagascar, from which my colleague and myself learned so much, as these visits to country stations.
It was during our visit to the Mándridráno, that I received the impression, afterwards repeatedly confirmed, that one of the most beautiful things to be found in Madagascar is its grass. This grass covers many thousands ofsquare miles. It is beautiful as it spreads abroad over the open plains, where it is short, compact and juicy; and supplies abundant nourishment to the great herds which the nobles of the land send to fatten upon what costs them nothing. It is beautiful in the sheltered valleys, where the soft, tender blades, enriched by the pearly dew and the gentle rain, are refreshing to the eye, and yield like velvet beneath the foot. It has a few wild flowers self sown among its roots: but has nothing of that profusion of colour and variety of form in its wild companions which render the flowering plants on the broad straths of Switzerland so brilliant to the eye, and such poor food to the cattle which consume them. But the grass of Madagascar is in its glory on the great hills. Burnt year after year by long sweeping fires, it springs up again with a profusion and a fulness which clasp huge rocks within its soft embrace. Here it is short but strong: there it rises in vast tufts, each of which contains many thousand blades and covers many feet of ground: and yet again it spreads over vast patches of country in thick, tall masses, which tower above men’s heads, open their tinted blades to the warm sun, and wave their myriads of golden feathers in the summer winds. And it is when we contemplate this rich but simple provision of the divine bounty, when we watch these masses of slender blades, each tuft a forest in itself, clothing with beauty what man has neglected, laying up store for man and beast, opening their golden hair to the dews by night and the warm winds by day, and joyously revelling in the life given them from above, that then we can, with Mr. Ruskin, appreciate and share the admirationand the praise given by the Psalmist to Him “who maketh the grass to grow upon the mountains.”
When standing on the lofty height overlooking Lake Itasy, we looked to the north and west over a large number of strange hills. Mr. Sewell had said that in his judgment, old volcanoes were to be found in this neighbourhood: and it was clear to us as we stood on this commanding position together, that the craters were before us. One of them, named Ambóhitrondry, was of great height and width; outside it on the east was a second, nearly circular; and a third hung on to that. Beyond these to the north were two craters of moderate size, one of them double. And beyond these again numerous others. Some were hollow craters; others were cones of beautiful shape: and all were richly clothed with grass. At our second station nearer the lake we were close to a lofty crater called, Mángaháfa, and could look into it. Behind Moratsiázo was another, Isáhadimy: and to the west of this, another Támpóly, with a fine figure of a sleeping lion at the top. All these we carefully noted, and placed in our maps.
The district on which they stand lies immediately west of Lake Itasy: and it struck us that the eruption of these volcanoes, by elevating the land, had barred the way of the original river, had submerged the level plain through which it flowed, and formed the Lake. The waters must have been high, until they found an outlet on the north and west in the channel of the present stream.
Passing on to our next resting-place, the town of Mahatsinjo, we went under the slopes of Ambóhitrondryand crossed two lines of lava which had streamed from it in its active days. A short distance on we passed through a cutting in the lava stream: which had a depth of twenty feet. To the south of this cutting we had four grassy cones, and at their foot a small lake, Kazanga, a mile long and half a mile broad. Three streams run into it from the east and south; its outlet is on the west, where the water has cut its way through a thick bed of lava pebbles. On the following day we ascended a lofty hill, a little to the north of Mahatsinjo, named Ambóhimailála, and found that it was a lava cone. It gave us a fine prospect of the country. There were other cones and craters to the north, amongst which was Gasgea, one of the noblest in the group. And on a lower level of the land, were several others, of which, later in the day, we visited two, perfectly circular craters, with dirty greenish lakes at the bottom. On continuing our journey to the south, we passed several others. Altogether we counted forty cones and craters in this district of which we were sure. Some were of enormous size, with lofty walls, conspicuous for many miles: others were small. Many were of horse-shoe shape: a few were circular. There were numerous little lakes and bowls among them: of which the largest was Lake Kazanga, which we believe no Englishmen have seen hitherto. The country is strewn with lava. Here and there it appears in huge blocks and its pieces are heavy: or it lies in layers, at times perfectly even, at times twisted like dough. Vast quantities have the little crystals of olivine in their tiny cells. The spongy lava and pumice have disappeared. The colour of the lava was in some masses a bright black: in others a pale lead colour: allover this district brown earth and mud are abundant: and they form a soil very different from the gritty red clay, the common soil of the island. Here and there we saw conical heaps of these lava stones, piled up by the people, who attach to them a superstitious reverence. We saw more of the volcanic system at a later period in this journey.
Mahatsinjowe found to be no common town. It stands on a spur of a long clay ridge, the upper part of which is overlaid by the lava; and is a place of some importance. It contains three hundred houses, many of them large and built of wood with reed-panels. The houses stand on “terrace upon terrace” cut into the slope of the hill. The rova or government house is a substantial dwelling. The population is unusually numerous, and reaches to probably eighteen hundred: we were told there were in the place a thousand children. As with their neighbours in this Mandridrano district, the people are well to do in the world: their cattle are numerous and rice and corn are cheap. Below Mahatsinjo on the south stretches a wide and level rice valley, supplied with abundance of water: the whole is under careful cultivation and its volcanic soil must produce enormous crops.
The town occupies an important position. Far richer in resources than Miádanamanjáka, it is the real capital of the Mándridráno district: it is surrounded by cultivated fields and has near it numerous villages. Indeed the district seems to have gathered a population of its own, settled in its choicest spots, and very much separated from their neighbours in Imamo. It illustrates the way in which Madagascar (even yet but partially occupied) hasbeen peopled, and in which the various sections of one race have grown up independently of one another. There is abundance of Christian work to be done in the district, and Mahatsinjo will prove an admirable centre for that work, with several sub-centres around it. Mr. Sewell felt with us that it would be well worth while for the Friends to place an English missionary here. The people gave us a warm welcome: they eagerly attended Mr. Sewell’s Bible classes and services: and earnestly requested that one of us would stay and live amongst them.
Behind the hill on which Mahatsinjo stands is another broad level, covered with rice fields, and having many little clusters of houses (like the Betsileo válás) dotting its surface and the roots of its bordering hills; and in their midst the little town of Ambálaváto. This level lies below the Imerina plain and forms part of the first terrace toward the west. With it the population comes to an end: for one day’s journey beyond scattered houses may be found; then for three days a traveller must sleep in tents and carry his supplies with him. The district reached is a veritable Noman’s land, with the Sakalava tribes on the farther side. The severity of their ancient raids upon Hova crops and Hova cattle has prevented quiet people from attempting to occupy the vacant territory. From the lofty heights of Ambóhimailála, we looked for more than twenty miles across the plains of red clay. They were deeply cut and scored with little valleys: and at a distance were long and lofty ridges running north and south. One of these Bóngoláva (“long heaps”) denoting a long ridge with numerous boulders, is said to be visible from the west coast: and three lofty peaks, Ampanána, Sapila, andIvohibe, form conspicuous landmarks for recording the geography of this region.
Both at Mahatsinjo and farther south, we heard much of an important town on the farther side of Noman’s Land, named Mánandáza (“the glorious”). It was described to us as a place as large as Mahatsinjo and as populous. It is among the friendly Sákalávas, and is occupied by a Hova garrison. “A good traveller may reach it in five days: a man driving cattle will take a week.” This would indicate that the distance from Mahatsinjo must be about seventy miles. Judging from our later journeys I should imagine that the town will be found on one of the rivers running from here to the westward, (probably on the Kitsamby) at the point where it quits the hills to cross the lower plains to the sea. It must be seventy miles from the west coast. There is a large church in the town: and the Hova Christians have one excellent preacher among them. Few of the Sakalavas are Christians.
After spending several pleasant days in this district, on Wednesday, April 22d, we turned southward, with a view to visit the mission station of Antoby and thence go on to Betafo. Hitherto we had travelled to a large extent along the line of the Imerina valleys. Now we were to cross them; and as they run out from Ankárat westward, are numerous and often deep, we had rather a wearisome time until we had passed over the clay country and had left it behind us. We passed many noble hills on the way. Vinany, a grand towering hill of gneiss, proved an excellent observing station and gave us a fine prospect of the country. Under another noble hill, Antsárabé, the river Kitsamby comes down from the roots of Tsi-áfakáfo. We found it a finestream; two hundred feet broad, three and a half feet deep, with a current of two and a half miles an hour: the water was thick and brown with clay. Looking up stream we saw that the river flows through a fine gorge between lofty ridges. To the west it passes over rapids at the foot of a gneiss hill, and far out on the plains, it receives the waters of several streams and then flows round the south end of the great ridge of Sapilá fifteen miles away.
Climbing again to the level of the plain, up a long basin beautifully cut out of the clay, we crossed successively the Sahomby, which flows out from the Lake of Vinánynóny: then other small streams: then the Sáhasáhatra which drains the north side of the Vava Vato; a rapid river, a hundred feet broad, which has cut through everything to the primitive rock. A lofty hill, Ambohitrolona, gave us a fine prospect of the Kitsamby river and the western plains: and brought under our eye the first of the Hova military stations, under the Sapila range. Another river of clear, sparkling water, the Nangalána, next crossed our road; followed by a smaller stream deeply coloured with clay: when, tired with our three days’ climbing up and down these numerous valleys we safely reached theAntobyMission-house, on Friday afternoon.
The kind welcome of our friends Mr. and Mrs. Clemes soon made us forget our troubles: and with quiet Sabbath services we enjoyed in a double way a sense of rest. There is no town at Antoby. The Mission is planted in the midst of small villages, and has many others of greater or less importance at various distances, as out-stations. We had already passed several of these and saw others during our visit. At the same time we thought that thesphere of labour is a limited one; the working of it involves a great deal of toil: and it is only peculiar circumstances, that suggested the position and that are best controlled by an English missionary’s personal influence, which justify the appropriation of a missionary even for a limited time, when larger spheres are open to him. The Mission-house is a most modest dwelling, simply and neatly furnished; and though too small, more completely realises my idea of a country Mission-house than others which I have seen.
For several days we had had in sight the great granite mountains of theVava Vato, which we had skirted on their eastern side, on our journey to the Betsileo province. The lofty serrated crest of these mountains had furnished us with conspicuous points for our survey. On the west centre were the noble peaks of Iávohaikia and Ivohitány; in the south bend was the peak of Máhasóa; and on the northern curve were two rounded hills, exceedingly like elephants; one very large, with a small elephant standing in front of him. These points occur repeatedly in our survey lists. We had long been approaching these granite mountains: the single line first seen on the horizon had broken up into masses, showing different ridges: and at Antoby we not only found ourselves close to them, but Mr. Clemes assured us that there was no difficulty in making the ascent and returning the same day. Our men, fortified for extra toil by an extra day’s pay, entered into the scheme with spirit, and we devoted Monday to the expedition.
We started at half-past seven and returned by half-past five: and with lovely weather and a clear sky, had a successfulday. We penetrated into the very heart of the Váva Vato range: and climbed to the summit of Iávohaikia (7100 feet), the highest peak of all. We found that, counting from the west, the mass contains three ranges and on the third in its centre is Iávoháikia. Behind is a fourth range, which bends to the south-east: on this is Ivóhitány. The first three ranges run south for three miles, then curve and end with a western front in the mass of Máhasóa. To the north these ranges bend to the eastward, and on the curve of the third and highest range are the two elephants. From them and from the fourth range, two lofty ridges run to the east and south-east: with fine grassy alleys between them.
This mass of mountains is piled up upon the grandest scale. Each ridge is lofty and impresses one with its greatness. Who can adequately describe the combination of the whole? It is impossible to enter into details; to picture the thousands of fallen rocks; to tell the size and vastness of individual rocks, bigger than palaces and temples; here piled upon one another, there scattered in profusion over a vast space. We walked beneath them, looking like pigmies: we climbed and climbed and stood upon them, looking like flies. Their shapes were wonderfully fair: their combinations and massings were strangely picturesque. Here a broad grassy level lay between two ranges: there a dark narrow way passed between giant rocks which towered high into the air. At the foot of huge square pillars which might be formed into an Egyptian temple, we took our refreshment on a granite table: the water everywhere was bright and pure. Nofiner rocks, no masses of such surpassing grandeur, have I seen in any of the countries which I have visited.
The granite of these mountains is of pink felspar, of fine grain and delicate tint. It is in a very rotten condition. Is this the result of weather only: or does it come of the fierce heats of the volcanic region by which it is entirely surrounded?
The district in which we were now travelling, from the Kitsamby south and from the Vava Váto mountains to the sea is calledMenabe, the “great red” land. It deserves the name, for the red clay is most conspicuous on all its western side. The population continues for only one day’s journey to the west. It is worthy of note that while on the eastern edge of Imerina the first descent is covered with thick forest along the entire line of country, the first descent on the west, both in the Mándridráno and Ménabé, is quite bare of wood: the terrace below for at least fifteen miles westward is bare also. There is brushwood in the hollows; but there is no forest properly so called. Farther south on the western edge of the Betsileo, M. Grandidier’s map indicates that there is forest.
We now looked forward to a visit to the Norwegian Mission Stations, which were not far away; and the first of which,Ambohimasina, is only six miles south of Antoby. We had already obtained three bearings of both the village and the Mission-house from various points. Taking farewell of our kind hosts, we left Antoby on Tuesday, April 28th, and had a pleasant run of two hours and a half, over the clay hills, and across the Ikokomy river, to Ambohimasina; where we were most kindly welcomed by Mr. Eganes of the Norwegian Mission: and joined him in alate breakfast. Mr. Eganes has lived a lonely life for two or three years at this distant station: but he has gathered round him the apparatus for Christian work: has built a simple, comfortable dwelling-house, and school: has been learning Malagasy; and now joined by a good wife, who was at the time of our visit on her voyage, he is prepared to devote all his strength and time to the instruction of the people around him.
At one o’clock we set out for the station ofBetafo, distant about fifteen miles. The journey was somewhat long and the road rough and unknown: but the bearers were as anxious as ourselves to arrive before dark, and they stepped well forward. Mr. Sewell and I brought in the rear of the party just before six o’clock and we were soon comfortably housed under the hospitable roof of Mr. and Mrs. Eng. I will not describe the details of our journey: but the ground over which we had travelled is in many respects remarkable, as illustrating the manner in which the present surface of Madagascar has been formed.
Our course from Ambohimasina was south-east, right up the valley of Betafo. This valley is in shape like an inverted funnel: at the western mouth it is five miles across: at the higher and eastern end it is a mile and a half wide. It is enclosed by high ridges through its entire length. A fine gneiss ridge overhangs it on the south. On the north the granite mountains of Mahasoa and the inner ridges of the Vava Vato, hang above it for ten miles: then follows a low gneiss ridge which extends to Betafo. The floor of the valley is of the sedimentary clay: it belongs to the upper plateau of Imerina and would, if undisturbed have descended to the west by three broad stairs, each five mileswide. It is the disturbances from which this enclosed valley has suffered, that give it its peculiar features and make its physical geography a subject of so much interest. Like many sections of Ankay it illustrates in miniature the process by which whole continents have been formed. First, at its upper corner on the south side, there meet two rivers, the Andrasáy from the east and the Lóalámbo from the north: the latter brings down a strong body of water from high ground: and both streams under the name of Loalómbo, have cleared the clay down to the gneiss rock, through the entire length of the valley along its south side, and carried the soil into the western plains. Five miles below their junction a strong stream comes out from the Vava Vato, called the Tsi-tánymaláma, “not a slippery land;” a sensible name, given by some Malagasy traveller with bare feet, when he was passing over its sharp granite pebbles: this stream cuts the great valley clean across with a valley of its own, and through the deep gulley flows into the Lóalámbo. Below this again, small streams from the granite have made numerous minor cuttings: and five miles below, a second river, the Sakóva, shallow at present but strong in the rainy season, does the same; cutting the clay with beautiful curves and leaving a high bank and ridge overhanging the water on the east side. All the ledges at the foot of these ridges are studded with villages, and hamlets, and in the centre of the valley, below the Sakova, is the village and Mission-house of Soávina, another station of the Norwegian Mission. On the north side of the valley is a series of clay terraces, beautifully formed; and numerous hamlets in a cluster combine to make up the town of Ambáranákóho. There is considerablepopulation in this part of the valley and more than one chapel is conspicuous on the hill-side. Near the broad mouth of the valley, though the clay hills are numerous, the general level that has been reached by all this cutting and washing of the streams, is that of the lower terrace in Menabe. At the south-west corner of the valley, the Lóalámbo having gathered all the streams into itself, flows full and strong across the plains, south of the great peak of Ivohibe, to join the river Mania.
Our visit to Betafo was made most pleasant by the great kindness of Mr. and Mrs. Eng. Mr. Eng has now been several years in Madagascar and knows the district well. He has suffered greatly from the local fevers, which re-appear in his system again and again, and keep him an invalid. But his earnest zeal and his longing desire for the welfare of his people render him a valuable member of the Mission. His position is one of great usefulness. The mission-house stands on a little hill in the midst of a vast amphitheatre, cut out of the great valley, at its upper end, by the rivers above named; and while the waters run free in the deep beds which they have made, the sloping banks around the vast enclosure, have been shaped into hundreds of terraces upon which rice is grown. Villages have been placed on all the best parts of the higher ground: and within sight of the mission-house, there must be in these villages some twenty thousand people.
A few miles to the east, on the way to Sirabe, is a broad plain, also rich in rice fields. Sirabe itself is full of rice grounds. So also is the Mánandóna valley to the south, which we had already traversed: and so is the Lávadránoplain to the east. There is no lack of villages and people throughout this region. The district lies south-west and south of the Ankárat mountains: and among the Malagasy is known by the technical name of Vákin’ Ankárat, “cut off by Ankárat.” It contains altogether ten thousandhetraor holdings, and these are believed to represent a population of one hundred thousand people. Betafo itself was the head of an independent kingdom, the fortress of which was on the top of a conical hill, on the south of the amphitheatre. It was summoned to surrender by Radáma; and yielded itself without trouble. The district has since formed an integral portion of the Hova dominions. And on her journey home from the Betsileo province, the Queen, with her camp, turned aside to Sirabé, that she might meet with her people. As at Fianáran, so also at Sirabe, she addressed to them all wise and stirring words upon the subject of educating their children.
The district forms an excellent sphere of usefulness: and it is occupied by the Norwegian brethren in force. They have established nine principal stations, occupied by seven missionaries. The people have been somewhat prejudiced against these brethren, as not being Englishmen and of the same Society as those who first instructed them. But they are overcoming these prejudices; and Mr. Eng assured us that there is decided improvement in their congregations and schools. We could not wish it otherwise. Trained in the Evangelical school of the Norwegian Church, these brethren are anxious to work in harmony with the Friends and ourselves: questions of jurisdiction have practically been settled between us. And we cantruly wish them God speed in their labours. Their reception of Mr. Sewell, my colleague and myself at all these stations was affectionate and cordial in the extreme.
At Betafo we were in the neighbourhood of the volcanoes once more: and having expressed our desire to examine them carefully, Mr. Eng kindly offered to accompany us. Ivoko, the noblest of all the craters in this district, was only two miles from the house. We had seen it from far down the valley, towering above the country; and we were anxious to climb to the summit, in the hope that by its means we might connect the eastern and western lines of our survey: as well as obtain a good view of the district at large. In this plan we found complete success. But our friends had resolved that we should have ample comfort in our day’s work. Abundant provision was made for our wants: the children of the family were delighted to join us: and a large number of the Christians of Betafo, anxious to show us respect, also accompanied us. Our visit to the Ivoko crater turned out a pleasant jaunt rather than a day of toil: and under a bright sky, with little wind, it yielded us thorough enjoyment.
We had a good climb: the total ascent being eleven hundred and thirty feet. Our native friends, used to hills, coolly walked right up the steep side, and thought nothing of it. Others of us took the more gentle ascent or were carried by our men, who enjoyed the holiday, as much as ourselves. The prospect from the summit was truly beautiful. Ivoko, we saw, was a vast crater, a quarter of a mile across; the encircling wall was complete, except at the south where the opening was fifty feet wide. The western wall is higher than the eastern. Beneath us, halfa mile to the east, was another crater, Iatsífitra, second only to Ivoko, with its opening to the north. Long narrow mounds of volcanic rocks, running out from each of these hills showed the course taken by the molten lava streams. Both hills were covered inside and out with living grass. On the north-west shoulder of Ivoko were two other large craters, overhanging Betafo: two more were close by at the north-east: and others were conspicuous ten miles to the north. On the south again were several others, the horse-shoe shape being very marked in all. While ten miles to the south, was the round crater of Tritriva, with a green lake, deep down within. Far away to the east were other craters near and to the north of Sirabe.
Our survey of the country had now been carried along the western districts of Imerina, and thence to the south; and it had embraced the whole country lying between the Ankárat mountains and the great ridges and peaks of Ménabé. On our former journey we had laid down the inner portions of the Vákin Ankárat; Mr. Cameron had determined the latitude of Betafo, Sirabe and Votovorona, nearly in a line; and we had examined the whole eastern side of the upper plateau from the capital to the south border of the Betsileo. At Ivoko we stood midway between these separate lines of observations: a large number of the principal peaks and positions were in sight; and we enjoyed an excellent opportunity of comparing them together, and testing the accuracy of our own work. When duly worked out, it was satisfactory to find that the sets of observations were consistent with one another, and that the discrepancies were few and within small compass. It is from these observations that our Maps have been constructed.
Descending to the crater of Iatsifitra, of which I obtained a photograph, we observed that the lava rocks, which had issued from it to the north, were black, sharp and fresh, as if they had been broken yesterday. On its eastern side was a plain, a mile square, covered with heaps of broken lava, like stone cottages, fortresses, and ruined palaces. I counted thirty greater piles: and noted numberless smaller ones. It was clear that, like the Phlegrœan fields in Italy and the neighbourhood of Mouna Roa in Hawaii, the entire plain had at some time been on fire; and that a hundred jets of fire and flame and molten lava had spurted from its surface, hurling their blazing rockets into the sky. The heaps were now old and moss-grown: but one of the peasantry informed Mr. Sewell, that there was a kind of tradition amongst the people, that their ancestors had seen these flames bursting forth. They called the fireáfo-to: and the lavakitroka.
Near to Betafo in a cutting, ten feet deep made by a stream, I observed a specimen of the strata formed by the successive eruptions of these volcanoes. At the bottom were lumps of lava, somewhat small. Above these came several bands of brown earth: then one of black earth: above this several strata of ashes, and of lava gravel: above these again were strata of earth. Similar strata we had seen in a cutting in the Mándridráno: and subsequently saw others under the hill of Ivohitra in Sirabe.
I need not give the details of our inquiries and their results on each day of our journey. Travelling farther east, across Sirabe and round the southern end of Ankaratra we had the lava still, with long tongues, cinder heaps, and old craters again and again. We ascended one of thenoblest hills in the country, the conical peak of Votovorona, a most important station in our survey: and we found it to be volcanic. Another fine cone to the east of it, Ihankian, was volcanic also. In this district we found sixty of these cones and craters. Altogether in this important journey we saw and counted a hundred extinct craters, extending over an arc of ninety miles, not reckoning the central mass of Ankárat, the finest of all, round one side of which this great arc bends. Even these do not exhaust the tale. The volcanic belt appears once more to the northward in the lofty hills with which the island terminates. The peak of Mataola is volcanic. Mount Amber is volcanic: the renowned fortress close to it is an ancient crater. Nosibe is an island full of volcanoes. Mayotta and Johanna in the Comóro isles are full of craters, lava peaks and lava streams. What a mighty volcanic force must have been exerted over this enormous area! Does Java itself show a more wonderful volcanic field? If human eyes could have beheld and appreciated them, what a scene of indescribable grandeur must have been presented when these volcanoes were active: when the land was rocked with earthquakes, and the mighty hills of gneiss and granite were upturned and rent in pieces: when showers of blazing rocks shot out like meteors into the lurid night, and the molten lava streams flowed like red rivers out of the mouths of these flaming furnaces. Wonderful in the history of the earth has been the agency of fire: nowhere can that agency have been exhibited more grandly in the present age of the earth’s formation than on the great volcanic field of Madagascar.
Among the adjuncts of the volcanic field we found fourhot springs, three of which are near together in Betafo and Sirabe. The temperature of the spring at Betafo, as tried by Mr. Cameron on our first visit was 130° Fahr. The water seemed perfectly tasteless.
In three places we also found jets of carbonic acid gas. Beneath the broad and level plain of Sirabe, extending over fifty square miles, there is evidently a great deposit of lime. The pits of Sirabe, worked by the government convicts, supply nearly all the lime used for building both in the Capital and Imerina at large. With the exception of some lime deposits, containing satin spar, north of Ankárat; and a little sandstone in South Betsileo, this lime of Sirabe is the only secondary rock we met with or heard of in the upper districts of Madagascar. It is massive lime and contains no fossils. It is from this lime that the wells of carbonic acid gas are derived. One well with numerous jets was connected with a filthy mud pool; the water bubbled all over the surface and our bearers could not imagine why it remained quite cold. In a second case the tubular well was dry, and we found butterflies and various insects dead and dying around its mouth: we were told that frogs and mice are also at times found dead there. Among the lime pits the bubbling springs were numerous. At one point a huge tufa rock has been formed, having caverns with stalactites on its eastern side. On the top of the rock there is a natural basin: the water of a spring continually flows up through a crevice, bubbling as it rises. And thus it provides neither more nor less than natural soda water, of which we could drink, as we liked, without charge.
During our journey we looked everywhere for columnarbasalt: but failed to find it. We saw abundance of lava, great and small, and of volcanic earth: but of columnar rock there seemed to be none. At last we found a single patch of it, about fifteen miles north of Voto Vorona. It covered a space of thirty feet by twenty: the columns were, as usual, six-sided: and the pillars exposed on the edge of a low ridge were four feet long. It is in the neighbourhood of these volcanoes that all the metals and peculiar earths in the island are said to be found. A district south-east of Sirabe and near to the Mania, is said to possess copper. Sulphur in small quantities is found at the south end of Ankárat. The lime is in Sirabe and a little of it north of Ankárat. Iron is found in abundance in the hills of Amoronkay, fourteen miles from the Capital and to the east of Ankárat. It is also abundant in the lofty mountain of Ambóhimiangára on the north-east corner of Lake Itasy. On the whole the native metallic supply in Madagascar seems poor and scanty.
Journeying from Betafo to the Capital, we paid a brief visit to the mission at Másinandráina; skirted the little lake of Iraikiba, the scene of a local legend of the Hero and Leander type; exhibited the bubbling well to our astonished bearers; and a second time enjoyed the hospitality of Mr. and Mrs. Rosaas at Sirabé. Thence we journeyed east over new ground to the broad level valley of the Lávadráno, “hollows with water;” and received a kind welcome from Mr. and Mrs. Nilsen at Lóharáno. With Mr. Nilsen, we climbedVotovorona, and from the summit carefully surveyed the country on all sides. The clear view furnished us with several connecting links of great value to the lists of observations taken hitherto.We saw far to the south the hill overhanging Ambositra: we saw Ivohibe to the west; and to the north had several lofty hills of known position a few miles south of the Capital. Votovorona is a noble conical hill, of most striking appearance. It is 844 feet in height, and stands on a broad base, 900 feet across. The base is gneiss: the cone proper is of lava rocks; one stone of which was clinkstone with a decided metallic ring. From Votovorona we had a clear view of several horse-shoe craters on the neighbouring moor: and the long valley of the Lavadrano was beneath us in all its length and breadth. The great granite mass of Ibety, south of Sirabe, towered high over the country.
From this point to the capital, travelling was comparatively easy. We were on the high plateau of Imerina. A single journey on the Saturday along the western side of the plain took us across the river Elaborona (“bird’s wing”) just where it joins the Onibe: and led us comfortably to Ankisitra. Here we rested for the Sunday and had a fresh opportunity of observing the ignorance of our country congregations at a distance, their perseverance in maintaining worship, and their willingness to receive instruction. In all this part of the country we saw no population. Next day we slept in the chapel at Andraráty, at the foot of the great peaks of Ankárat. We took valuable observations from lofty hills: but for two days the weather baffled our attempt to climb the highest, Tsi-áfa-závona: and we were compelled to give it up. Crossing the lava tongues and ridges, at Miantsoarivo, we fell into our former track on starting for the Betsileo. Again we passed along the waters of the Katsáoka (herecalled the Berimo) and of the Andromba issuing fresh from the lava; and reached the thick clusters of villages in South Imerina. Again we visited Ambátomaláza, with its grand turtle-head rock. We had completed the circle of Ankárat, had enclosed this great mass of mountains within a ring of observations, connected point by point. We had seen and visited the population that drink of its waters. On Thursday, May 7th, a little after noon, we reached Antananarivo once more, wearied, but safe and well.
A few days after we set out to pay a brief visit to the town ofAmbohiveloma, which has been selected as a station for the residence of an English missionary in Western Imerina. The place is situated at the distance of a long day’s journey from the Capital. Having crossed the Ikopa and rounded the great hill and island of Ambóhitramanjáka, so prominent in the landscape of Imerina, we rested at the next village of Anósimanjáka, to give the men breakfast. And here we met with a singular reception. Mr. Pillans and I were alone; there was no interpreter to help us in our intercourse with the people. Putting up in a handsome new chapel, not yet finished, the elders of the village came to pay their respects: the chapel mats were speedily spread, and things were put in preparation. We were strangers to these village elders: they knew that we had come across the sea to visit the native churches: but they had heard rumours that we were addicted to strange proceedings, which they did not understand, and concerning which they had received no instructions either from political or ecclesiastical authorities. They were evidently afraid of us: they were therefore courteous but reserved. After a few inquiries about things ingeneral, whence we had come and whither we were going, the reason came out. “In travelling about, do you not take pictures?” “Yes, we have made many pictures.” “Do you not write down the country and the churches?” “Yes, we do.” They looked very serious over these confessions: and eventually the oldest goose in the village and two little pots of rice were deemed a fitting present for such very suspicious visitors.
Going on our way we had to cross the Andromba, now a strong stream, eight or ten feet deep and sixty yards wide, bearing the waters of the Kátsáoka as well as its own. Bridges are unknown in Madagascar over such streams, and we must cross in a canoe. The only canoe available was a narrow thing, with a big hole in it, stopped up with lumps of turf, and leaking considerably. Besides there was not a single paddle to propel it. What matter? Some luggage and a few bearers were put into the gallant bark: and the ferryman rowed them over with his legs, using first the right foot and then the left, that the resultant might be a right line! The party landed safe: and in due time we followed. An efficient paddle would have cost that genius one farthing.
Passing well to the north of Antongona and Ambohitrambo, we kept up a long level valley, south of a fine hill that was new to us, Ambóhimanáha. Again we crossed our old friend the Ombifotsy, and in due time came near the Anonibe. We reached our destination just at sunset.
Ambohivelomais a country town of unusually striking appearance. It is situated on the top of a clay hill, 450 feet above the rice plain: the hill slopes up rapidly and is deeply scored with ditches and gullies once relied on asfortifications. The town contains a hundred houses. Two large and well-built houses stand at the top of the town, which belong to the principal family in the place, and near them are the family tombs. Indeed the tombs are royal, one of the old kings of the district being buried here. There are other houses about, enclosing plenty of space: and the hill is covered with trees. The chapel is rather a small building, unworthy of the place and people: but that defect will soon be remedied. We found in it a school of thirty-five children. It has been arranged that the missionaries coming to occupy Ambohiveloma shall rearrange these two principal houses, and reside in them while the permanent English house is being built, on the northern slope of the hill.
Ambohiveloma is surrounded by fertile rice valleys well supplied with water. It is therefore the centre of a large population; villages and hamlets are seen in all directions on the little terraces of the hills above the fields. A hundred such are found within a few miles and some of the villages are large. Beyond these villages on all sides the population is thin; even on the east as well as north and south. And as the ancient kingdom that was established here stood isolated from others, so the new Mission district about to be arranged for, will have a sphere of its own and be to a considerable extent separated from others. Nevertheless it has the prospect of much usefulness.
On the following day we ascended a lofty hill, named Ambóhimaláza, four miles to the south-west of Ambohiveloma: and had a fine view of this western part of Imerina. We stood in a new position just between districts, to the south and north, over which we had slowlytravelled. Many of our great landmarks were in sight and were distinctly seen in the clear air. Lohavohitra to the north: Ambohimiangára to the south-west: Tsiafakáfo and the peaks of Ankárat: Ambohimanáha, and others even more distant, were prominent points in the outstretched landscape. We saw also two noble granite masses in the north-west, Ambohitrondrona and Antáramánana, which have lofty serrated peaks and resemble in many respects the granite ridges of the Vava Vato and of Ibety.
During the day we observed many beautiful butterflies about the hill: and several were brought to us by the children, pinned to a small stick by a thorn. They were beautifully marked with green and black and gold. The day closed with one of the finest sunsets I have seen in the East. As we stood on the platform at the top of the hill, we had an immense territory under our eyes. The whole was lighted up by the departing sun with a gorgeousness and splendour indescribable. The colour of the whole was a rich golden red. Every hill and valley, high and low, was bathed in the glowing radiance, which seemed not of earth but of heaven.