FOOTNOTES:

To the Bois de Boulogne shall we wander to-day,Or visit the tomb where Napoleon reposes,Or ascend Notre Dame, from its tow'rs to surveyThe scene unsurpass'd which that prospect discloses?From Boulevards crowded our steps may diverge,If we wish at the Bourse[23]to see bright or long faces,As some bubbles rise, or as others may mergeIn the vortex where Hope vainly looks for their traces.Shall we seek the Pantheon's vast edifice, whereAn echo to thunder converts every sound,From vaults[24]in whose precincts the bones of VoltaireWere so carefully stow'd that they cannot be found?Or the Luxemburg Palace, with gardens, where growThe roses so varied, throughout the whole year;And you see on each side stained queens in a row,Their costumes antique looking cold and severe?To the Louvre's magnificent halls shall we hie,Where art's choicest gems require days to explore them;Where dynasties past seem around us to lie,Whilst emblems Imperial are triumphing o'er them?Shall we visit St. Cloud, and continue our courseTo Versailles, where a palace exemplifies allThat monarchical pride from its serfs could enforce,Till their patience exhausted accomplish'd its fall?If at Sevres we pause to admire for awhileIts plastic productions of classical taste,We shall see the sole work that the Pompadour's smileEver sanction'd that was not impure and debased.We should not forget St. Germain, and its claimsOn a stranger's attention * * *

To the Bois de Boulogne shall we wander to-day,Or visit the tomb where Napoleon reposes,Or ascend Notre Dame, from its tow'rs to surveyThe scene unsurpass'd which that prospect discloses?

To the Bois de Boulogne shall we wander to-day,

Or visit the tomb where Napoleon reposes,

Or ascend Notre Dame, from its tow'rs to survey

The scene unsurpass'd which that prospect discloses?

From Boulevards crowded our steps may diverge,If we wish at the Bourse[23]to see bright or long faces,As some bubbles rise, or as others may mergeIn the vortex where Hope vainly looks for their traces.

From Boulevards crowded our steps may diverge,

If we wish at the Bourse[23]to see bright or long faces,

As some bubbles rise, or as others may merge

In the vortex where Hope vainly looks for their traces.

Shall we seek the Pantheon's vast edifice, whereAn echo to thunder converts every sound,From vaults[24]in whose precincts the bones of VoltaireWere so carefully stow'd that they cannot be found?

Shall we seek the Pantheon's vast edifice, where

An echo to thunder converts every sound,

From vaults[24]in whose precincts the bones of Voltaire

Were so carefully stow'd that they cannot be found?

Or the Luxemburg Palace, with gardens, where growThe roses so varied, throughout the whole year;And you see on each side stained queens in a row,Their costumes antique looking cold and severe?

Or the Luxemburg Palace, with gardens, where grow

The roses so varied, throughout the whole year;

And you see on each side stained queens in a row,

Their costumes antique looking cold and severe?

To the Louvre's magnificent halls shall we hie,Where art's choicest gems require days to explore them;Where dynasties past seem around us to lie,Whilst emblems Imperial are triumphing o'er them?

To the Louvre's magnificent halls shall we hie,

Where art's choicest gems require days to explore them;

Where dynasties past seem around us to lie,

Whilst emblems Imperial are triumphing o'er them?

Shall we visit St. Cloud, and continue our courseTo Versailles, where a palace exemplifies allThat monarchical pride from its serfs could enforce,Till their patience exhausted accomplish'd its fall?

Shall we visit St. Cloud, and continue our course

To Versailles, where a palace exemplifies all

That monarchical pride from its serfs could enforce,

Till their patience exhausted accomplish'd its fall?

If at Sevres we pause to admire for awhileIts plastic productions of classical taste,We shall see the sole work that the Pompadour's smileEver sanction'd that was not impure and debased.

If at Sevres we pause to admire for awhile

Its plastic productions of classical taste,

We shall see the sole work that the Pompadour's smile

Ever sanction'd that was not impure and debased.

We should not forget St. Germain, and its claimsOn a stranger's attention * * *

We should not forget St. Germain, and its claims

On a stranger's attention * * *

The last place mentioned in this unfinished production was chosen; and after viewing the tomb of James the Second of England, the church, to the vaults of which the mortal remains of many French monarchs had been consigned, the old palace, and the exquisitely beautiful scenery of its vicinity, I prevailed on my estimable friend to become my only guest at the Prince of Wales' (Le Prince de Galles) Hotel and Tavern, where we had what he designated "a sumptuous dinner," the entire charge for which was defrayed by seven francs (5s. 10d.). How sumptuous!

During another stroll I happened to express very great admiration of the poetic productions of Gray; and in reference to his "Elegy written in a country churchyard," ventured to term it the finest composition of the elegiac class in the English language. Father Mahony praised it highly, but disagreed as to its merits being superior to every other production of the kind. He then stated that about the middle of the last century, a native of Dublin, named John Cunningham, who was a comic actor, published a volume of poems, and dedicated them to David Garrick. They were chiefly pastoral, but amongst them was "An Elegy on a pile of Ruins," composed, he believed, on Rosslyn Abbey and Rosslyn Castle; and he then repeated several verses which he considered very beautiful, and which he declared to be equal, in his estimation, to the poetic merits of Gray's Elegy. I asked if he could lend me the work, and he replied that he had never seen it except at a public library in Cork. Soon after my return to Dublin I saw on a bookstand at Aston's Quay, a copy, which I purchased for a shilling, and thus became enabled to quote the verses to which my very learned friend ascribed such excellence. They are extremely alliterative—

In the full prospect yonder hill commands,O'er barren heaths and cultivated plains;The vestige of an ancient abbey stands,Close by a ruin'd castle's rude remains.Half buried, there, lie many a broken bust,And obelisk, and urn, o'erthrown by Time;And many a cherub, there, descends in dustFrom the rent roof, and portico sublime.Where rev'rend shrines in Gothic grandeur stood,The nettle, or the noxious night-shade, spreads;And ashlings, wafted from the neighbouring wood,Through the worn turrets wave their trembling heads.There Contemplation, to the crowd unknown,Her attitude composed, and aspect sweet!Sits musing on a monumental stone,And points to theMEMENTOat her feet.Soon as sage ev'ning check'd day's sunny pride,I left the mantling shade, in moral mood;And seated by the maid's sequester'd side,Pensive, the mould'ring monuments I view'd.Inexorably calm, with silent paceHereTimehas pass'd—What ruin marks his way!This pile, now crumbling o'er its hallow'd base,Turn'd not his step, nor could his course delay.Religion raised her supplicating eyesIn vain; and Melody, her song sublime;In vain, Philosophy with maxims wise,Would touch the cold unfeeling heart ofTime.Yet the hoar tyrant, tho' not moved to spare,Relented when he struck its finish'd pride;And partly the rude ravage to repair,The tott'ring tow'rs with twisted Ivy tied.

In the full prospect yonder hill commands,O'er barren heaths and cultivated plains;The vestige of an ancient abbey stands,Close by a ruin'd castle's rude remains.

In the full prospect yonder hill commands,

O'er barren heaths and cultivated plains;

The vestige of an ancient abbey stands,

Close by a ruin'd castle's rude remains.

Half buried, there, lie many a broken bust,And obelisk, and urn, o'erthrown by Time;And many a cherub, there, descends in dustFrom the rent roof, and portico sublime.

Half buried, there, lie many a broken bust,

And obelisk, and urn, o'erthrown by Time;

And many a cherub, there, descends in dust

From the rent roof, and portico sublime.

Where rev'rend shrines in Gothic grandeur stood,The nettle, or the noxious night-shade, spreads;And ashlings, wafted from the neighbouring wood,Through the worn turrets wave their trembling heads.

Where rev'rend shrines in Gothic grandeur stood,

The nettle, or the noxious night-shade, spreads;

And ashlings, wafted from the neighbouring wood,

Through the worn turrets wave their trembling heads.

There Contemplation, to the crowd unknown,Her attitude composed, and aspect sweet!Sits musing on a monumental stone,And points to theMEMENTOat her feet.

There Contemplation, to the crowd unknown,

Her attitude composed, and aspect sweet!

Sits musing on a monumental stone,

And points to theMEMENTOat her feet.

Soon as sage ev'ning check'd day's sunny pride,I left the mantling shade, in moral mood;And seated by the maid's sequester'd side,Pensive, the mould'ring monuments I view'd.

Soon as sage ev'ning check'd day's sunny pride,

I left the mantling shade, in moral mood;

And seated by the maid's sequester'd side,

Pensive, the mould'ring monuments I view'd.

Inexorably calm, with silent paceHereTimehas pass'd—What ruin marks his way!This pile, now crumbling o'er its hallow'd base,Turn'd not his step, nor could his course delay.

Inexorably calm, with silent pace

HereTimehas pass'd—What ruin marks his way!

This pile, now crumbling o'er its hallow'd base,

Turn'd not his step, nor could his course delay.

Religion raised her supplicating eyesIn vain; and Melody, her song sublime;In vain, Philosophy with maxims wise,Would touch the cold unfeeling heart ofTime.

Religion raised her supplicating eyes

In vain; and Melody, her song sublime;

In vain, Philosophy with maxims wise,

Would touch the cold unfeeling heart ofTime.

Yet the hoar tyrant, tho' not moved to spare,Relented when he struck its finish'd pride;And partly the rude ravage to repair,The tott'ring tow'rs with twisted Ivy tied.

Yet the hoar tyrant, tho' not moved to spare,

Relented when he struck its finish'd pride;

And partly the rude ravage to repair,

The tott'ring tow'rs with twisted Ivy tied.

The eight verses which I have quoted from "An Elegy on a Pile of Ruins," are not consecutive in that production. It may appear extraordinary that Father Mahony should make such long quotations with perfect correctness, but to those who knew him a misquotation or deficiency of recollection on his part would seem far more surprising.

FOOTNOTES:[23]The Parisian Stock Exchange.[24]The door of this vault, when clapped, produces a noise fully equal to the report of a heavy cannon. The general opinion is, that the bones of Voltaire were abstracted and burnt, soon after the restoration of Louis the Eighteenth.

[23]The Parisian Stock Exchange.

[24]The door of this vault, when clapped, produces a noise fully equal to the report of a heavy cannon. The general opinion is, that the bones of Voltaire were abstracted and burnt, soon after the restoration of Louis the Eighteenth.

Whilst sojourning in Paris I became acquainted with anavocat, named Vanneau, who practised in a provincial district, and who came to stay, for a few days, at the boarding-house in the Rue de l'Oratoire in which I was located. He had been recently engaged in defending persons charged with criminal acts, and narrated a case by which it appeared that Ireland had not a monopoly ofland murders. A. M. Deneubourg had purchased, at Cambray, a piece of land near Ewars, occupied by a farmer, named Potiez, who had offered for the property, but was outbid by Deneubourg. In the evening of the day of sale, the two men, on their way home, met at a house of entertainment at Ramillies, and some very angry language passed between them. They left the house, and in some time Potiez returned to Ramillies, and stated that they had been attacked on the road, that he had saved himself by flight, but he feared Deneubourg had been murdered by the villains who had assailed them. On proceeding to the place described, Deneubourg was found horribly murdered. His head was smashed to small pieces, and to a club which was found near the body a portion of his brains and two of his teeth were adhering. There were no footprints on the soft ground except what corresponded to the shoes of the deceased or of Potiez, and the dress of the latter was marked with blood. Various other circumstances fully indicated the guilt of Potiez. He was convicted, but was not sentenced to death. The French jury found him guilty of the murder,under attenuating circumstances. I asked Monsieur Vanneau what attenuating circumstances could the jury discover in so brutal a murder, and he gravely replied that they thought an accepted offer for the purchase of the property, outbiddingthat of the occupying tenant, was a very strong provocation and a natural incitement to revenge. He then added that Potiez was fortunate in being tried by a jury on which there was nota landed proprietor or an auctioneer.

I met in Paris with some Irishmen holding ecclesiastical appointments there, and I gratefully recollect their kind and hospitable attentions. One of them, Père M'Ardle, was attached to the Church of St. Sulpice, which was much frequented by Irish, English, and American Roman Catholics. His duties consisted in the celebration of Mass, hearing confessions, visiting the sick, &c.; but he never preached, the pulpit being reserved for clergymen who could deliver sermons in French with the ease and fluency incident to their native language. The side aisles of the church were appropriated to persons of respectable appearance, who were expected to pay six sous for each chair provided for their accommodation. The chairs were under the management of some female attendants, who were most persistent in collecting the chair-rent. On Whitsunday, 1864, a soldier entered one of the aisles and took possession of a chair, without the intention, and probably without the means, of paying for its use. He was immediately required to pay the usual charge, or to leave the aisle and join the general crowd in the centre, and he obstinately refused to adopt either course. Whilst the altercation was proceeding, the Curè of St. Sulpice had entered from the street, and was passing quietly to the sacristy to make the necessary arrangements for preaching the sermon. He touched the soldier gently on the shoulder, and whispered, "My friend, pay her trifling demand; here is what will enable you to procure the same accommodation for a considerable time." Slipping a five-franc piece into the soldier's hand, he passed on and discharged the duty which he had undertaken. On the next Sunday, (Trinity,) the Curè was confined to bed by a severe attack of bronchitis, and another ecclesiastic preached, andafterwards went to the apartment of the invalid to afford his sympathy and express hopes of a speedy recovery. The Curè almost immediately asked him if he had observed a soldier amongst the congregation, to which the other replied that there were more than a dozen soldiers listening to the sermon, and they subsequently came to the sacristy, where, on being asked what they required, they replied, "Only the money." On being told that there was no money for them, they expressed some anger and great disappointment, as they had been led to believe by a comrade that they would get five francs each.

On one occasion I was a spectator of a procession of French bishops from the College of St. Sulpice to the church. Amongst them there was one Irishman, Monseigneur Cruise; he was the Bishop of Marseilles.

From the abundance and variety of Algerian productions which I beheld in the Parisian markets, it appeared to me that the country from which they were supplied possessed great capability of soil and climate, and received a high degree of cultivation. The finest Muscat grapes, both as to size and flavor, melons, pomegranates, shaddocks, and all the lesser varieties of the citron tribe, almonds, brinjals, sweet potatoes, and what was a very novel sight to an Irish eye in October, splendid strawberries, met my view in several shops entirely appropriated to the sale of Algerian commodities. I confidently hope that French enterprise will be eventually far more successful in Africa than it was on the other side of the Atlantic. Few of the most valuable productions of the West Indies are indigenous. They were first introduced by the French into St. Domingo, and that island was the first to escape from European ownership. When the sugar-cane was brought from Egypt, the coffee bush from Arabia, and luscious fruits and stimulating spices from various lands, the negro was imported from Africa, to be eventually the master of all. However, the stain of slavery does notattach to the French rule in Algeria, and from all that I was able to learn of their government there, I know no reason why all who are desirous of the substitution of civilization instead of piracy and tyranny should not wish it to be permanently successful.

In closing my Parisian recollections, I wish to notice what was termed "Bird Charming" in the gardens of the Tuileries. There was a silly notion amongst some people there that by the agency of animal magnetism, or by some peculiar power, the feathered tenants of the woods and shrubberies of the palace became familiar with particular persons, and the subject was specially mentioned inLe Monde Illustre. It was certainly very curious to see the sparrows flocking about a person, eating from his hand, and perching on his hat, in expectation of the crumbs which he was distributing; but it was far more extraordinary to see the woodquest (le pigeon sauvage) come from his lofty nest, alight at your feet, then perch on an adjoining rail, and pick the crumbs from between your fingers. Still the "charming" was a misconception. The birds were in a place where they felt secure; they were not shot at or frightened, but they were petted and fed, and accordingly became familiar. I had no magnetic or mesmeric influence, but I had some nice bread, and they came down and ate from my hand, and some sparrows even took morsels from between my lips.Le Monde Illustrenoticed two occasions on two consecutive days, when the birds were plentifully fed, and their feeders were described in terms, of which the following is a very literal translation:—

"A young man of genteel demeanor, his head uncovered and slightly thrown back, called the birds, which came fluttering around him, and took, even from between his lips, the morsels of bread which he offered them. We wished to discover the secret of this curious proceeding, and returned at the same hour on the following day. Weexperienced a great disappointment; for, instead of a man young and prepossessing, we beheld 'a charmer,'old and wrinkled, no sparkle in his eye, no expression in his looks. He began by throwing into the little railed arbours some morsels, quickly devoured by the bold sparrows. Then, having gradually attracted them, he kept in his hand a further supply of bread, and from the thickets of shrubs, and from the surrounding trees, finally from all quarters of the garden, birds of various species came flocking and fluttering around him. Attaining to a degree ofcrescendobetween him and his feathered guests, he finished by having them perched on his shoulders, and picking the crumbs from between his lips."

Who could the individual have been, thus designated as old, wrinkled, unsparkling, and inexpressive? Oh! I hope that none of my readers will suppose or suspect that such terms were applied to me. I should prefer being considered "a young man of genteel demeanor," but if the other description appears more suitable or probable, then—"What can't be cured must be endured."

I left the French capital after a very agreeable residence of eighteen months, and, previous to returning to my native city, availed myself of an invitation from a kind and hospitable friend to pass a month with him at a delightful villa in Brittany, about a couple of miles from St. Malo. Amongst the people of this locality, I observed a vast dissimilitude to the corresponding classes in Paris. Display, and the excitement incident to the metropolitan requirements of frequent and varied amusements, appeared to have very slight attractions for the Bretons, whose pursuits and habits were mostly directed to the acquisition and enjoyment of public advantages and domestic comforts. Their soil did not appear to me to be superior to the generality of that which I have seen in the southern half of Ireland; nor did I consider their climate more genial during the time of my visit, which comprised the latter halfof August and the next half of September. Their exports of orchard fruits, butter, eggs, and poultry, from the port of St. Malo, were enormous in quantity, and, I believe, unexceptionable in quality. The external appearance of their firkins and other packages was extremely neat and cleanly, and the butter was liable to inspection previous to its shipment. I was informed by the English Consul that the exportation of butter amounted in the year to twenty-five thousand firkins, and the fowls exceeded one million. On the lands which I had opportunities of viewing in Brittany, I saw very large crops of rape, the seed of which was intended to be crushed for the production of oil, and I have been in three concerns where the rape oil was filtered through charcoal, and thus clarified and qualified for our use as "Colza oil." Buckwheat (blè noir) is considered a valuable crop, and is much used for feeding poultry. The sugar-beet (betterave jaune) is often to be seen, but is generally mistaken by strangers for mangold wurtzel. But the most extraordinary production is one which we could cultivate fully as well and as profitably as the Bretons can, if we were permitted on any terms. I have seen many acres, even on one farm, thickly covered with tobacco growing most luxuriantly. Why cannot we see it on the Irish soil? Why is it utterly prohibited here?

During the wars of the French Revolution and of the first empire, St. Malo was a port almost exclusively appropriated to the outfit and employment of privateers. Few of their cruises were eminently successful; but the greatest prize stated to have been acquired was a large ship, belonging to the English East India Company, which was captured in very foggy weather between Jersey and Southampton. The cargo consisted of the choicest Indian produce, and there was also a very large amount of specie on board. This affair realized an ample fortune for the proprietor of the privateer, who retired from any further speculation in or connection with maritime operations, whether forcible or otherwise, and invested his gains in the purchase of a fine estate in the vicinity of St. Malo. During my visit I was at several delightful entertainmentsgiven by families with whom my friend was on intimate terms; and, at one, in St. Servan, a conversation arose relative to the great injury inflicted on the commercial navy of the Northern American States by Southern privateers. One gentleman stigmatized such proceedings as utterly disgraceful, and insisted that no nation should ever promote or even countenance nefarious attack on private property, and the consequent ruin of unarmed and non-belligerent parties. I was much amused when, on our way home from the repast, my friend informed me that the indignant denunciation of privateers was uttered by the possessor of the estate acquired by the capture of the Indiaman, the grandson of the proprietor of the fortunate cruiser.

The religious tendencies of the people of St. Malo formed a very great contrast to those of the Parisians. In these pages I shall not intentionally introduce a word of a controversial or sectarian nature; but I may remark, that whilst in the metropolis, public and private works and commercial avocations were unscrupulously pursued on Sundays; whilst the bricklayer, carpenter, and slater; plied their trades, and numerous carts supplied them with building materials, the provincial town was as still and as quiet as the most rigorous observer of the Sabbath could require in our cities or towns. I went into St. Malo on a Sunday when the procession of Corpus Christi passed through the principal streets, and it appeared to me to produce amongst all classes most devotional effects. The thoroughfare was covered with freshly cut grass and short sprigs of evergreens. Young females dressed in white headed the procession, carrying baskets of flowers, which they occasionally strewed, whilst flowers were abundantly thrown from almost every window. I firmly believe that demonstrations of any inclination to impede or offend the numerous sacerdotal functionaries engaged, would have excited the general populace to a very prompt and violent manifestation against the offenders. I feel equally convinced that any similar religious or ecclesiastical demonstration in Paris could not pass through any street of thatcity. It would be overwhelmed by mob violence, not from its connection with any particular creed, but from the popular dislike to any form of religion whatever.

Whilst at St. Malo I visited the tomb of a man, the great attributes of whose character, and the extraordinary incidents of whose life, have been recently made the subject of a most interesting lecture, delivered by my truly learned friend, Professor Robertson, and published, amongst several others, by Mr. Kelly, of this city. I allude to François-René, Viscount de Chateaubriand, who was born at St. Malo in the year 1768, and during a life of eighty years witnessed the outbreak and many of the horrors of the French Revolution; who had, for his personal safety, to undergo exile and penury, until his literary acquirements and productions procured for him the friendship and respect of strangers, and relieved him from indigence. Then, having been enabled to return to France, he published some romances, and also works of a serious description, by which he acquired a high and lasting reputation. Subsequently, having travelled in Greece, Asia Minor, Syria, Palestine, Barbary, and Spain, he made the results of his travels the subject of a most interesting Itinerary. In 1821 he was sent as ambassador to Prussia, and in 1822 was appointed to a similar office at the British Court. Towards the close of the reign of Louis the Eighteenth, he became the French Minister of Foreign Affairs, but did not continue long in office; he died in 1848 at Paris, and his remains were conveyed to St. Malo. I have mentioned Chateaubriand as an illustrious and highly gifted man, and my readers will be greatly surprised when I add—He sleeps in a nameless tomb.

In his lifetime the municipality of St. Malo had, at his request, granted a solitary rock in the bay of that seaport for his place of sepulture. There his coffin was deposited in a grave cut out of the solid stone, and surmounted by a granite cross, which marks the last resting-place of onewhose reputation was far more than European. It bears the short and simple inscription of "Here lies a Christian." (Ci git un Chretien.) I believe, however, that the omission of the name has caused all who have seen the tomb to enquire who was its occupant, and has not tended to render him forgotten, or his memory unappreciated by his countrymen.

The foregoing notice of this celebrated native of St. Malo had scarcely been put in type when I received a copy ofThe Tabletnewspaper, containing a communication from a French correspondent relative to the inauguration of a Chateaubriand memorial at St. Malo, on Sunday the 5th of September last. I presume to insert it in these pages, as strongly confirming the opinions I have expressed, and being likely to please and interest the reader by its intrinsic merits.

"A Statue to Chateaubriand.—Yesterday (Sunday) the inauguration of the Chateaubriand Memorial took place at Saint Malo. All the papers are full of recollections of the author of theGenie du Christianisme. Chateaubriand lived at a time when the evils of revolution had left the strongest emotions in all hearts. There was a drama in every man's life, a romance in every one's history. The very air was full of a floating, vague poetry of sufferings and regrets, and disappointed hopes. Nature and misfortune combined to make Chateaubriand a poet. A dreamy, unhappy childhood heightened the sensitiveness of his feelings, and religion itself was to him as poetry was—emotional. He saw his mother die, heard her last prayer for himself, the child of her affections, for his welfare, temporal and eternal. From that day he submitted to the Church's dominion. 'I wept,' he says, and 'I believed.' He then travelled in America, and the ocean and the wilderness revealed to the young man a new kind of poetry. He went to Philadelphia to salute Washington. Subsequently he travelled into the far West. Returning to Europe, Chateaubriand endured the miseries of exile. That was the most unhappy part of his life. It was then that he commenced authorship. We next hear of him at the siege of Verdun, on the surrender of which place he found himself without resources. After many vicissitudes of fortune he reached London, and betook himself seriously to literary work. The remainder of his history is too well known to need recapitulation here; I therefore return to thefêteof yesterday. The town of Saint Malo is small but curious by reason of its sombre mediæval aspect, its granite houses, its narrow, winding streets, and itsabsence of greenery—not a lawn nor a shrub being visible anywhere. Chateaubriand's native townsmen retain a lively recollection of him, and welcomed the day with enthusiasm. A large number of strangers also paid their respects to the tomb of the author ofLes Martyrs. The emotion was general when the procession reached the summit of the 'Grand Bé,' and came in sight of Chateaubriand's monument. High above the waves was an iron railing and a cross of stone, nothing more. Its simplicity was touching and effective. Chateaubriand perhaps yielded to a feeling of pride, in wishing to be buried thus on that elevated spot, with nothing in sight but the immensity of the heaven and the immensity of the ocean:—'Cœlum undique et undique pontus.'Be that as it may, the people of Saint Malo have done honor to themselves in honouring Chateaubriand. We may apply to him his own words about Bossuet, 'His genius will stand like the mighty figure of Homer, always seen through the long vista of the ages. If sometimes it is obscured by the dust of a falling century, the cloud soon disperses, and there it is again in all its majesty, only overlooking new ruins.'"

'Cœlum undique et undique pontus.'

Be that as it may, the people of Saint Malo have done honor to themselves in honouring Chateaubriand. We may apply to him his own words about Bossuet, 'His genius will stand like the mighty figure of Homer, always seen through the long vista of the ages. If sometimes it is obscured by the dust of a falling century, the cloud soon disperses, and there it is again in all its majesty, only overlooking new ruins.'"

On my return from France, I found that my son, Frank Thorpe, had accepted the appointment of medical officer in the Islands of Arran, which lie at the entrance of Galway Bay; and at his earnest desire, I proceeded to visit him, without the slightest expectation of deriving from the trip any pleasure, except that resulting from our meeting. On my journey, as I reverted to the scenes and associations which, in distant and foreign lands, had been almost invariably agreeable, I felt convinced that I was certain of finding, in the lonely insular locality to which I was going, the most striking contrasts. The passenger communication between Galway and Arran was effected by a sailing vessel of very moderate dimensions, but bearing the dignified appellation of "The Yacht." She had one small cabin for the reception of all ranks, sexes,or ages; and as the weather was neither wet nor cold, I preferred a seat astern, and having procured a reeling-line from one of the crew, amused myself by capturing mackerel until I had acquired a couple of dozen. There were four lines in operation during a run of about thirty miles, and for five hours the catching of mackerel was incessant. The skipper said that the bay was swarming with them, but net-fishing was only followed in the vicinity of Galway town, as the transmission of large quantities by sailing boats was considered extremely hazardous. If the capability of Galway Bay for supplying enormous quantities of mackerel, herrings, and occasionally pilchards, shall ever be made available, results may be obtained immensely advantageous to local interests, and most important to the general community. I may revert briefly to this subject whilst detailing some incidents of my sojourn amongst the Arran islanders.

No traveller ever arrived in a locality to which he could be supposed to attach a more slender expectation of being gratified by what he might receive during his stay, than that felt by me at the commencement of my visit to Arran. I was impressed with a paramount idea, that I was to spend the time in a bleak, sterile region, and amongst a population destitute of almost every habitude or quality imparted by civilization. I could not possibly have formed a more erroneous opinion, for I never stood on any spot, in any of the islands, without having in view, whether near or distant, scenery sublimely picturesque; and I found the people, without even an individual exception, unpresuming, unobtrusive, civil, obliging, intelligent, and industrious. The adults of both sexes generally indicate in their personal appearance the effects of constant manual labor, and of occasional privation, but they are mostly tall, vigorous, and active. Many of the youthful females are decidedly beautiful in features and figure, and there is no scarcity of very pretty children. The aggregate population of the three islands exceeds four thousand; and although Irish is the language generally spoken, I did not meet with any who could not converse in English. Schoolsconnected with the National Board of Education are numerously and regularly attended; and although the generality of the men and women appear to be attached to, and contented with the locality in which they live, there is a great desire frequently expressed to qualify their progeny to engage in industrial pursuits or trading employments elsewhere.

There are no forest trees to be seen in any of the islands except a few stunted sycamores. I saw two or three pear-trees, which had been planted close to walls, but their growth appeared to have been checked by the saline atmosphere and shallow soil, and they produced no fruit. On the hills I found a great variety of indigenous flowering plants, which were very handsome, and in the rocky dells there were several kinds of convolvulus of very rich florescence. The Madagascar Periwinkle seems to be perfectly acclimated, and blossoms profusely; and I was greatly surprised to find a very abundant growth of hops, the introduction of which is ascribed to the monks, by whom the numerous old ecclesiastical structures were formerly occupied. The tillage of the islands comprises potatoes, mangold-wurtzel, vetches, rape, clover, oats, and barley. The potatoes almost exclusively planted are round, white tubers, generally small, but numerous, and they are termed "Protestants." A perfect stranger might be startled by hearing a direction given to put the Protestants on the fire, or to roast them in the glowing turf; but the proprietor of the Atlantic Hotel, in reply to an observation of mine, said that there was no offence intended, forthey found the Protestants very palatable. The tillage crops are sometimes greatly devastated by caterpillars and grubs; and I have frequently heard the abundance of those pernicious insects attributed to the great scarcity of sparrows and other small birds. Starlings are occasionally seen, but I never observed a swallow. Gulls and other marine birds are very numerous, amongst which the Ospray or sea-eagle is a conspicuous object. The raven, crow, rook, or jackdaw cannot be found; but there is a bird which I thought extremely handsome, verynumerous, especially in the North Island. It is the Chough, which, in addition to plumage dark and glossy, like that of the jackdaw, displays a beak and legs of bright scarlet. It is said that this bird was formerly to be seen in flocks at various places on the English coast, especially Dover cliff, and that now it cannot be found in any part of the United Kingdom except the Arran Islands. I should regret its extinction, for I know it to be handsome, and it is reputed to be harmless.

I recollect reading, although I am unable to specify in what work, that frogs were not indigenous to Ireland. It was stated that in the reign of Elizabeth, a person connected with the University of Dublin, then recently established, brought from England a crock or jar of frog spawn, which he emptied into a ditch at Beggars' Bush, near Dublin, and that in his importation our present community of amphibious croakers and jumpers originated. The probability of this statement is strengthened by the fact, that frogs are not to be seen in the Arran Islands.

I believe that there is not a salmon fishery in Great Britain or Ireland more abundant than the one at Galway. I have there seen from the bridge the fish in such numbers as I should have considered incredible if described. These myriads of salmon entered Galway Bay from the Atlantic, and passing the islands, proceeded about thirty miles to the river where they appeared in such enormous quantities. I therefore think that I should mention a most extraordinary fact, that whilst I was at Arran, I saw, in a morning stroll, five men drawing a seine net at the entrance to Kilronan harbour. They took some herrings, a few flat fish of various kinds, some whiting, some pollock, and a salmon of about twelve pounds weight. I was desirous of purchasing the latter, and they readily sold it to me for two shillings; but they all assured me that they did not know what kind of fish it was, and that they had never seen one before.

The quantity of land capable of tillage in each island is very limited, and consequently affords employment only to a small portion of the population. Fishing in the bay,with boats rather poorly equipped, or drawing seine nets in the creeks and entrance of the harbour, and cleaning and drying the produce, are followed by many during the favorable weather; but the principal employment of a very considerable number of both sexes is gathering of the seaweed, and converting it into kelp by calcination. I believe that all other industrial occupations are of trivial importance to the Arran people compared with the production of kelp. The capability of Galway Bay to be made a fishing station of immense importance has never been denied; it can produce an abundance of the choicest piscatory delicacies, and frequently becomes, through its entire extent, replete with mackerel or herrings. I venture to express an opinion, that the greatest obstacle to the development of such advantages is to be found in the feeling of indifference, perhaps I might use a stronger term, on the part of the people belonging to the various adjoining localities, to each other. I have heard, in Arran, frequent expressions of contempt for the Connemara fishermen, of dislike to the Clare people, and of utter detestation of those belonging to the Claddagh at Galway. On two occasions, in the South of England, I saw a great fleet of boats, comprising vessels from Cornwall, Devonshire, Hampshire, and Kent, co-operating amicably and efficiently in surrounding a shoal of mackerel or pilchards. On narrating these occurrences to some Arran fishermen, I was told "it would be impossible to bring about such a state of things there; and that, even if others became agreeable, the Claddagh fellows would rather sail through the nets of other fishermen than join in taking as much as would fill every boat."

Whilst I was at Arran some cases occurred of severe typhus fever. There is no hospital in any of the islands. The habitations are, with three or four exceptions, thatched, and without any upper story. The invariable course adopted was to nail up the door of the patient's apartment, to take out the sashes of a window, and render it the sole means of external communication. The medical attendant, clergy, and nursetender, had no other means ofingress or egress, and I never heard any objection made to the system. My son contracted the disease, and although ten days elapsed before a medical gentleman arrived from Galway, he surmounted the fearful malady. I spent each night in his apartment, and during the day he was tended by a nurse. Almost every night I heard some gentle taps outside of the vacant window, and on going to it I would be told, "My wife is afther making a pitcher of whay fur the poor docthur; you'll find it on the windystool," or "I brought you two jugs of milk, to make whay fur yer son; they're on the windystool." When the crisis had passed, and nutriments or stimulants were required, I would be told, "We biled down two chickens into broth for the docthur, I hope that it will sarve him." Rabbits, chickens, and joints of kid were tendered for his use, and even a bottle of "rale Connemara potteen" was deposited on the window-stool. The people were all kind and anxious; and when he became able to walk out, he was cordially saluted and congratulated, but no person would approach him if they could avoid it. They were all dreadfully apprehensive that he might impart the direful contagion. I brought him home as soon as possible, but he and I will always remember most gratefully the unvarying kindness and sympathy we experienced in Arran.

Some friends of the Leinster Circuit have suggested that a few descriptive notices of my personal recollection of scenes in court, convivial evenings at the Bar-mess, or other amusing incidents of the period between 1827 and 1840, during which time I had attended every Assize Court held in Wicklow, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, and Tipperary, might not be unacceptable. The subject is one in which the pleasures of memory are mingled with numerous regrets; for of all those whose learning and talents excited my respect and admiration, or whose wit and conversational powers rendered their society invariably delightful, very few remain. Of the judges which Iremember, I considered Chief Baron O'Grady (subsequently created Lord Guillamore) the most amusing public functionary that I ever had seen. He came our circuit but once during my time. At Wicklow he presided in the Crown Court; and amongst the cases for trial there were four or five for sheep-stealing, and they were all convicted. Sheep-farming was at that time so prevalent in Wicklow, and considered so important by the class of persons who were summoned as jurors, that an accusation of sheep-stealing almost invariably eventuated in conviction. Towards the close of the assizes, a member of the Militia band then stationed at Arklow was put forward for trial on an indictment for the manslaughter of a comrade, whom he had killed with his sword on a sudden altercation. The case appeared fully to warrant a conviction, but the jury, without even retiring, acquitted the prisoner. Mr. Scott, the senior counsel for the crown, expressed an indignant disapproval of the verdict, upon which the Chief Baron observed, "Mr. Scott, the prisoner is not yet discharged, and you can get a conviction immediately if you only indict him forsheep-stealing." When we proceeded to Wexford, the Chief Baron, as Record Judge, had but two short cases to try, and when they were disposed of, he engaged in the trial of criminals. A woman named Hester Carroll, who had been for some time a pest and disgrace to the town of Enniscorthy, was put forward, charged with a robbery of a gold watch and chain, and upwards of twenty pounds, from a farmer, who had become intoxicated in her society. She was found guilty, and when the verdict was announced, a sergeant of constabulary, who had been the principal means of her detection, advanced to the table in the Record Court where she was standing, to take away various articles which had been found in her possession; whereupon she sprang at him, tore his face fearfully, and bit his hand very severely. When she was disengaged from her intended victim, and held so as to prevent further violence, the Chief Baron pronounced the sentence of the court in terms which seemed to me and others of hishearers to be an imitation, in style and assumed solemnity, of that incident to a capital offence. After some preliminary observations on the heinous nature of her crime, and the certainty of her guilt, and the tendency of her conduct in court to prevent any mitigation of punishment, he concluded in the following words—"The sentence of the court is that you, Hester Carroll, shall be taken from the place where you now stand, to the gaol from whence you were brought, and from thence that you shall be transported for the term of seven years to such penal settlement or colony as his Majesty's government may direct, and may God have mercy upon those who shall have to manage you there."

A prisoner was tried before him at Wexford on an indictment for highway robbery, and although the evidence amounted to a strong probability of his guilt, the verdict was an acquittal. Richard Newton Bennett, who defended the prisoner, immediately applied to the Chief Baron to order the man to be liberated, to which the other replied, "He will be discharged from custody, Mr. Bennett, to-morrow at noon. I shall set out for Waterford in the morning, and I wish to have a couple of hours start of your client."

In my early professional days the law in reference to injuries to growing crops of vegetables was very imperfect, and although taking potatoes, turnips, &c. out of the owner's ground was considered a very serious trespass, the offence could not be treated as actual larceny. Some proceedings at Waterford, in reference to the abstraction of turnips, were held to be insufficient to sustain an indictment, and a deputation of the Grand Jury sought a conference with Chief Baron O'Grady on the subject. One of them asked his Lordship if the delinquents could be made liable to punishment under theTimberAct, to which he gravely replied, "Certainly not, unless you can prove that the turnips weresticky."

Charles Kendal Bushe had been a member of the Leinster Bar; and when he had attained the distinguished position of Chief Justice, he frequently selected his formercircuit as a Judge of Assize. Amongst the members of the Bar he was not merely respected and admired, but beloved. Portly in his personal appearance, he was dignified without ostentation, witty without sarcasm, learned without pedantry, and his judicial duties were discharged with impartiality, patience, kindness, and humanity. Kilkenny was his native county, and amongst the gentry of that place his family had been long established. The judges on circuit usually invite two or three barristers to dinner daily in each town; and I had the very agreeable honor of being an occasional guest of Chief Justice Bushe. I recollect a conversation relative to the criminal calendars of that time compared with those of the previous century. The Chief Justice said that the name of his family had been introduced into the charge of a judge to the Grand Jury of Kilkenny, about the year 1760, in terms far from complimentary. There were then organised bands or gangs of freebooters, who plundered and maltreated the proprietors and tenants of estates, unless a certain subsidy, called rapparee rent, or blackmail, was paid for their forbearance, and concealment and subsistence afforded whenever required. He said that the Agar family, (pronouncedEager,) the Floods, and the Bushes had become contributory to the marauders, and sheltered them from capture. Rumours of such an arrangement having been circulated, it was alluded to by Baron Dawson telling the Grand Jury of Kilkenny that their county waseagerfor prey,floodedwith iniquity, and that everybushsheltered a knave.

Having given the Chief Justice's anecdote in reference to three names, I may mention that my own name has not passed scotfree. At our Bar-mess, the Hon. Patrick Plunket was one evening insisting that I should sing a particular song. I begged to be excused, but he persevered, and continued exclaiming, "Porter! Porter!" I said that "although I was 'Porter,' he should not make abuttof me." He replied, "I don't want to make abuttof you, I only wish to get astaveout of you."

Judge Torrens often came on our circuit, and generally dined twice at the bar-mess: one dinner being thecustomary banquet given by the Bar to the judges at Kilkenny, and the other being by special invitation at Clonmel. He was always desirous on such convivial occasions of obtaining some vocal contributions, especially of a comic character. His favorite song was "The Wedding of Ballyporeen." He was Judge of the Record Court at Clonmel in 1833, and immediately after taking his seat at the commencement of the Assizes, was applied to by the late Mr. Brewster to fix a day for the trial of a case, the parties to which, and their witnesses, had to come from the most distant part of the country, namely, Ballyporeen. The Judge made the order sought, saying, in a playful tone, "Is Mr. Porter engaged in this Ballyporeen case?" "No, my Lord," replied Brewster, "I regret that I have not the assistance of my learned friend."

"Most unquestionably," said his Lordship, "he ought to be in it."

There were some attorneys present who heard his remark, but they were not aware of the origin of his suggestion. Perhaps they ascribed it to a very favorable opinion of my professional capacity, or to a feeling of personal friendship; but I found it subsequently productive of several record-briefs, which I might truly say were obtained "for a song."

In 1836, the Attorney-General (Richards) appointed me to a Crown prosecutorship on the circuit. In the afternoon of a day next before the opening of the Assizes of Clonmel, in 1838, I was sitting and noting a brief, whilst about a dozen more were lying on my table, when I was informed that a gentleman wished me to grant him an interview. Acceding to his request, I desired the servant to show him up, and I immediately perceived that he was an ecclesiastic. I proffered him a chair, and he proceeded to inform me that he was the Rev. Mr. Coony, a Catholic curate in a parish the name of which has escaped my memory; but it was near Clonmel. He was young, and zealous in advancing the religious interests of the flock with which he had recently become connected, and stated it was much to be regretted that the Catholic churchof his parish was so completely out of repair as to require almost a total renovation. That he had been encouraged by the character he had heard of me to appeal to my generous and charitable disposition for a subscription towards rendering the church suitable and safe for his numerous poor parishioners. I was inclined at the time to have a little fun with his reverence, and said, "Well, sir, when you have your church repaired, I suppose you will make it as available as possible to the religious and moral improvement of your people."

"Certainly, sir; we shall endeavour to do so."

"You will urge them to abstain from fighting and killing each other, from administering unlawful oaths, serving threatening notices, burning houses, houghing cattle, or plundering firearms, and even from excessive drinking."

"Assuredly, sir, it will be our duty to do so."

"So you come to me, to persuade me to cut the ground from under my own feet, by subscribing to further your acknowledged intentions. I am a prosecuting counsel on this circuit, and on the table before you I have a profitable assortment of murders, conspiracies, and attempts to murder, abductions, threatening notices, and faction-fights. You would render my vocation worthless by inculcating the observance of law and order, quietude, and temperance. It would be much more reasonable that I should be asked to subscribe to a society for the distribution of blunderbusses and pistols."

"Oh!" exclaimed the astonished priest, "may heaven grant that I shall never again hear such expressions from human lips."

"Well," said I, "suppose we effect a compromise. You expected to get a pound from me. Will you let the poor Crown prosecutor off for half-a-sovereign?"

"Mr. Porter," said he, "I now feel convinced that you were jesting; for, if you really felt as you spoke, you would not give me a farthing."

I gave him the half-sovereign. We walked together to "The Ormond," where we had some biscuits and wine, and parted on most friendly terms.

For a considerable time previous to my retirement from the Leinster Bar we had a junior member of that body whose name it is unnecessary to mention fully. He had been the adjunct or drudge of an attorney-general, and was consequently known amongst us by the designation of "Tom the Devil." I have heard that in his earlier years he had been a midshipman on board the "Orwell," a splendid ship belonging to the East India Company, and that for some special service which he undertook and accomplished under most dangerous circumstances, the Directors had allotted him a reward of one thousand guineas, on the acquirement of which he returned home to Ireland, and applied himself to the legal profession. He was greatly liked amongst us, and none relished his society more than I did. He frequently became my chum on circuit, and on one occasion, at Clonmel, he asked me to convey, in reference to a personal quarrel, the most liberal offer perhaps ever made to an adversary. There was an individual whose conduct and character were by no means questionable, as they were fully ascertained to be thoroughly disreputable, and he came to our lodgings whilst I was ordering breakfast. He was accompanied by another person who had been concerned, as a second, in a recent hostile meeting, and he stated that he wished to have an interview with Mr. ——, meaning my chum, "Tom the Devil," who was still in bed in a small adjoining room. I went to the door and said, "Tom, here is Mr. ——, who wants to see you." He jumped up, and without adding any other garment to his night-shirt, put his feet in his slippers and entered the sitting-room; then turning to the applicant he said, "What do you want with me?"

"Mr. W——," was the reply, "I have been informed that on several occasions you have insinuated various matters prejudicial to my character, personal and professional; and I deemed it necessary to have a direct explanation as to whether you have expressed such injurious insinuations."

Tom replied, "You have been altogether misinformed.I can solemnly affirm, indeed I can safely swear, that I never breathed anyinsinuationwhatever respecting you." The other bowed and seemed evidently gratified, but Tom continued, "I admit that I have spoken of you, but not indirectly. I have not hinted or insinuated, but plainly stated that I considered you a low, mean, ignorant, pettifogging blackguard. That is my explanation; and now, sir, if you will only wait until I draw on my boots, I shall feel much pleasure in kicking you down stairs."

I stepped forward, and implored the interrogating party and his friend to retire. I said that the apartment was mine, and that I would not allow any further altercation there. I succeeded in getting them away, and then I said to my candid chum, "This is a most unpleasant affair to occur in my presence. It may be highly injurious to me, for it will produce a challenge and a hostile meeting."

"He wont fight," observed Tom. "They are gone down the street, and as you are dressed, slip on your hat, and follow them. Tell the rascal to make no further row here, but to start at once for Milford, where I'll meet him. Tell him that my brother gave me forty pounds yesterday, and if he fights me I'll give him twenty, and, by ——,I'll pay for his funeral into the bargain."

I declined carrying this liberal offer. I may add that there was no challenge sent, and the party against whom there had beenno insinuationimmediately retired from the profession. I cannot call to mind any further reminiscences connected with the Leinster Circuit. I regret that, whilst I was a member of it, I did not keep a regular diary.

In the foregoing pages I have mentioned occurrences and personal observations incident to my sojourns in France, Germany, Spain, and England. In all the cities which I visited, I found the people by no means indifferent to the reputation of their respective localities, or disposed to impress strangers with the opinion, that they had arrived in a place where vulgarity, dishonesty, andbrutal violence habitually prevailed; and where to the worst and most appalling crimes there had been publicly accorded

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