TWENTY YEARS AROUND THE WORLD.
TWENTY YEARS AROUND THE WORLD.
Havana,February 10, 1839.
By the advice of my physicians my second sea voyage was by the ship Norma, which sailed from the port of New York on the 20th of January. After a passage of fourteen days, with alternate gales and calms, we sighted Abaco, and the Hole in the Wall. We crossed the Bahama Banks; the water was of a bright blue color, with a clay bottom, which was distinctly seen. The thermometer went up to 72°, so we threw, off our winter-garments, and put ourselves in summer apparel.
A cheerful sight was the old Moro Castle, at the entrance of the harbor. It has three hundred guns, and is built upon a rock. Opposite stands a new fort called the Punta, and three hundred yards from the Moro Castle is a gigantic work called the Cabana. These defences are on an immense scale, with heavy rock excavations, and are said to have cost eighteen millions of dollars. When the bill was presented to the Court of Madrid, the old King Ferdinand asked if they were made of silver. The passport system is onerous and rigorous here; but time and progress will produce a change.
The landing, or shipping-port, is a stout, well-planked wharf, of great length, sufficient for the landing of cargoes: vessels lie head on, and discharge and receive over their bows. Our ship anchored in the stream, and boats took our baggage to the Custom-house. We were struck by the novel sights on landing. A large number of negroes was employed in unloading ships, and transporting merchandize, singing the while theirmerry sailor songs. Mules with heavy saddles, and small trucks on two wheels, were waiting for our effects. Huge carts for heavy goods were drawn by oxen, with rings in their noses, and yokes resting on their horns. Next comes the Volante, or pleasure carriage, which is universally adopted, and, although odd-looking at first, it is extremely comfortable, and is adapted to the climate. Figure to yourself a pair of wheels from seven to eight feet high, and shafts eighteen feet long. Upon these shafts a chaise body suspended with leather-straps. At the extreme end of the shaft the horse or mule, with his braided tail tied up to a large Mameluke saddle. Upon that saddle a shiny, black negro, with leather leggings strapped up to his knees; shoes and spurs, and coat and hat of livery. The hacks, which are rather rusty, stand about the squares for customers; but the equipages of the nobility and wealthy citizens are really magnificent, and the sight of the fair sex, in full dress, on a gala-day when hundreds are seen on the Paseo, is one of the most pleasing and beautiful to be found in any country.
I have just witnessed a display of the kind; some three hundred Volantes were present with a band of music. The vehicles go up on one side of the Paseo and return by the other, driving through a paradise of garden. An accident occurred; the lancers on horseback were instantly on hand to preserve order. The police is numerous and efficient; the men carry spears, and a lantern in the night. The military force is large, and belongs to the regular troops from Old Spain.
The style of building strikes a stranger with surprise as he enters the city. The houses are generally of stone, one or two stories high, and are covered with fluted tiles, or flat roofs of cement. Many of the residences of the wealthy are commodious and magnificent. The building material is a yellow, calcareous stone, which is easily shaped by an axe to any form, and being porous it receives cement readily. The fronts of the houses are painted with gay colors, yellow, pink, or blue. They have low windows, with iron bars for shutters, and curtains supply the place of glass, which is yet almost unknown here. No chimneys are needed, as the cooking is mostly done with earthen furnaces.
Havana is well supplied with market buildings of a quadrangular form: the outer structure is for the butchers, and theinterior for venders of fruits and vegetables. The fish-market is tastefully ornamented with marble and porcelain slab counters, and the various kinds of fish thereon have all the hues of the rainbow. The fish market is in the hands of a monopoly, who employ many vessels along the Florida coast for supplies.
A grand masquerade-charity ball has just taken place at the Tacon Theatre, outside the city walls, and it is computed that seven thousand tickets were sold. The great variety of costumes, within and without, representing all the characters that could be suggested to one’s mind, the multitude of the dances, and the different strains of music, the five tiers of boxes of open bronze-work, displaying the rich robes and dazzling gems of the lady spectators, gave it additional charms.
I have just returned from the plantation of a fellow passenger, and am much pleased with the rack or gait of my horse, which is peculiar to the island of Cuba. The road, which was rough, was of calcareous stone. The shell, which is easily discovered in the rock, can be cut in any shape; it hardens with age. The house which I visited was comfortable, and pleasantly situated, with negro-houses among groves of oranges, citron and lemon trees, and fields of sugar-cane in the background. The reception was a warm one, for the mistress of the place, an affectionate old lady, was delighted at the return of her son; I witnessed her kindness towards her negroes. The Bishop’s Garden gave me an opportunity of seeing tropical plants and fruits in their perfection. It seemed neglected, however, while the Tacon Garden is a splendid affair.
Matanzas,March 1, 1839.
This is a considerable shipping port. Large quantities of lumber are brought hither by New England vessels, which in return take cargoes of sugar, molasses, and coffee. I saw a drove of mules and horses with pack-saddles, fifty in number, all laden with these articles, coming to market. Twenty-eight of them were laden with four kegs, each containing five gallons of molasses, and were tied head and tail together. One man had charge of that number. In this warm climate they stop andwash or swim their animals in the streams to refresh them; the drivers drink the fresh milk from the cocoa. The number of game-cocks owned here attracted my attention; cock-fighting takes place frequently. I noticed, in passing an inclosure, an arena for practising, and stakes were driven for forty of them, to which they were attached by the leg; some are even valued as high as six ounces, or a hundred dollars; two negroes were cracking corn with their teeth to feed them, and others were sprinkling aguardiente or Cuba rum over their heads and bodies; it gives them a reddish color after the feathers are plucked out. If game, they fight until they die. In the pit they take them up and blow in their mouths, lick their heads, raise their wings, run their bills together, and then put them down to see who will conquer.
In the vicinity are found very extensive caves, inhabited by bats, which are well worth a visit. Myself and a fellow-traveller hired a Volante to visit a coffee estate on the banks of the little Canaimar river. The weather was warm; the rays of the sun were oppressive like one of our July days; it was dry and dusty. We met with droves of muzzled mules laden with products; we crossed the river in scow boats, drawn by a rope. The coffee-tree grows about three or five feet high, and is lopped to make the branches expand, otherwise it grows seven or eight feet in height. The blossom is white, the leaf resembles the laurel of our country, only larger; there is a fragrant but insipid flavor to the blossom; the berry is red, and tastes sweet. On opening it you discover two grains of coffee. It is gathered in baskets, and carried to the yard where they have large earthen floors with descents both ways to carry off the rain; here it remains until perfectly dry, then it passes through a machine which completes it. It is then put up in sacks for market. They commence picking about the 1st of November, and continue until they have finished, often as late as February. The tree lasts fifteen or twenty years, if well attended to.
The Canaimar is a beautiful stream, with high banks covered with trees, and is from fifty to eighty yards wide; it is navigable some fifteen or twenty miles, for schooners up to Barcadero. For pretty scenery it reminds me of the Hudson, but decidedly in miniature.
We saw several fine coffee plantations, and others exhausted,devoted to the production of sugar. Our Calesero with his droll costume wore his sword, which he flattered himself was a great protection after nightfall. The roads were rough, and little travelled by carriages; but it was amusing the way we rattled over the hills with three horses attached to our odd-looking vehicle. We have followed up our visits to sugar and coffee plantations in other directions. Some of the latter are most beautiful with avenues of palms, interspersed with orange and myrtle trees. One sugar estate of three hundred acres turned off three hundred hogsheads of sugar. The owner had one hundred and fifty negroes, one hundred of whom were working hands; we visited their cabins and the sugar-works. He had seventy yoke of oxen, thirty on the grinding mill; they work night and day, five pair at a time, cracking the cane with three large rollers. The juice is insipid but healthful; it soon becomes acid when exposed to the sun. It runs direct from the mill in reservoirs, and in the iron boilers with sides of brick-work. It is dipped from one pot to the other, and boiled until the guarappa or syrup passes into reservoirs or granulators, after which it is put into hogsheads, and stands over vats to allow the escape of the treacle or molasses, which is pumped up and forwarded to market. The crushed stalk is dried and used for fuel, when engines are in vogue as they now are. The cane may be used up entirely. In the cutting the cattle follow and consume the tops; the balance decays and enriches the soil. The negroes cut the cane systematically with long knives in the fields. The cane here springs up again without replanting, and lasts from five to seven years.
In the gardens were guava trees, from which the delicious jelly is made, and pomegranates, oranges, and other fruits. The most graceful tree is the palm: it grows straight to a great height, with rings from the root, and looks like a column of marble of greyish blue color until within fifteen feet of the top, when it lessens in size, and is of a bright green color, with an offshoot or thread that grows up like the winding-sheet of a candle, about four feet to the top, from which spread the branches, like an umbrella. From the green spot spring bunches of berries which are green, but ripen red, and are used by the negroes to feed their hogs. The mango, shaddocks, sweet oranges, and forbidden-fruit, are interesting to the stranger. Wehave just paid the sad rites to one of our Northern invalids; only four of us followed him to the grave. The funeral of a child three years old has just passed; this beautiful infant lies in a half coffin, with face and hands exposed, a wreath of flowers about its head, and a bouquet in its little hand. One half of the coffin is supported by four boys in fashionably cut garments, and bright coat-buttons; the other half is supported by other boys. The friends of the dead do not go to the grave. The manner of burial being so different from ours, one is struck with every peculiarity. Some distinguished person who died recently had ten negro bearers dressed in military apparel, red and grey livery trimmed with lace, with black chapeaux and feathers. Ten Volantes followed. The bodies are buried in trenches, with all their clothing on, which is cut before interment. They are put in the ground without the coffin, quick-lime is thrown upon them with a little earth; others are buried over them. When room is required, the ground is dug over, and the fragments are burned.
The convicts here are employed upon the public works, and in the streets, pounding stone and regulating the thoroughfares; they are guarded by soldiers, and wear chains on one side from the waist to the ankle. I recently accompanied a planter who wanted to add to his stock of negroes. A cargo of two hundred and eighty-five had just arrived from Africa. They were in the Barracoons, men, women, and children. I had some oranges, which I cut up and gave them; they did not know what they were at first, but soon found out, and flocked around me and drove me to the door, with their hands all up, clamoring for more. It was amusing to see the scampering and jubilee when the fruit was thrown among them. They were fond of snuff, tobacco, and pipes. The planter made a selection of twenty, at twenty-four ounces, or four hundred and eight dollars each, and they seemed happy to get out of the barracks.
South-West Pass, Balize,April 1, 1839.
The steamer Tacon brought me down from Matanzas to Havana. The renowned Ravels were drawing immense housesat the Tacon theatre. I took the railway for Guines, a small town, towards the south side of the island, much resorted to by invalids. We made many excursions on horseback, visiting different cafetals and sugar plantations, passing through orange groves, the eye resting upon acres of pineapples. I attended high mass at the Cathedral in Havana, where rest the ashes of Columbus, which are said to have been brought from St. Domingo. Our passengers returning to the States have converted our brig into a sort of Noah’s ark; it has twenty poodle dogs, quantities of pigeons, doves, Guinea pigs, game cocks, etc., and about ninety thousand oranges on deck. No steamer offering, we were obliged to take this brig. We should have made the passage in five days, but a norther came on within twelve hours’ sail of the Balize, and we were among the Chandeleur Islands at one time without a chronometer, and the officers could not tell our course. The first appearance of two rival tug-boats, the Lion and Mohican, in the distance, running for us, was a grateful sight. We are now rapidly ascending the river, whose water is charged with alluvial deposit, and is very muddy. The low banks, covered with grass and cane-brakes, arrest the floating logs from the undermined forests of the upper rivers, brought down by the freshets; alligators are seen crawling upon them, and basking in the sun’s rays. Further up, we come in sight of sugar plantations, with the whitewashed huts of the negroes. The appearance of a high-pressure steamer, with hurricane deck, is very striking at first sight; and the eternal puff of the escaping steam, may be heard distinctly for miles. Towing on the Mississippi, against a current six miles per hour, requires enormous power. The shipping at New Orleans is immense, extending for six miles along the Levee, which is of a semicircular form, and gives New Orleans the name of the Crescent City. The cotton warehouses and presses are of gigantic size, to meet the demands of the trade. Many of the public buildings are substantial, and in good architectural taste. The St. Charles and St. Louis hotels are of a superior order, and are among the largest in the United States. The exhibition of merchandize on the levees, consisting of cotton, sugar, molasses, tobacco, lard, flour, grain, and all the products of the Western and Southern states bordering on the rivers, is immense, and connecting here from a hundred steamerswith a fleet of shipping for most of the ports in the world, gives a faint idea of the trade of this commercial city.
A drive over the shell road, along the banks of the canal, to the Lake House, and the return by rail from Lake Pontchartrain—a peep at the French opera in the second municipality—a drive to Carrolton, the new and upper portion of the city—a walk over the battle-field below the city, where General Jackson defeated the British—will suffice for this visit, as I return again. I now take the steamer for thenew Republic of Texas!
Mobile, Alabama,April 27, 1839.
The steamship New York carried us to Galveston in fifty-six hours. The fine weather promised us a shorter passage, but our ship grounded for several hours at the south-west Mississippi pass. When we sighted the few masts in the distance from the harbor of Galveston, a gay wag pointed them out to a verdant passenger as the steeples of the city. Only a limited number of buildings are yet erected. A wrecked steamer on the beach with upper cabins answered the purposes of a hotel. Levees will be made for the protection of the city from inundation; the city lies on Galveston island at the foot of Galveston Bay, which situation, with an energetic and increasing population, will render it in time a place of great trade and commerce. A small high-pressure steamer took us up to the Capital of the Republic, Houston, named in honor of the late president and hero of San Jacinto.
We had a fair number of cabin passengers, and a goodly number in the steerage, migrating to the new settlements.
One of those amusing mock criminal cases which help to beguile the tedious hours at sea, came off on the charge of a slight indiscretion against a New Orleans merchant. Counsel in behalf of the state and defence of the prisoner was procured; the judge took his seat; the sheriff arrested the prisoner; witnesses were subpœnaed; special-pleading began, and the examination of defence before the jury, half of them ladies, being the entire number of our fair passengers, contributed not a little to the amusements, in which Finn, the renowned punster and comedian,took part. The jury retired to the ladies’ cabin, dropped the curtains upon the court, rendered a champagne verdict, which resulted in a similar sentence upon the judge, advocates, and sheriff, the consequence of which was no want of exhilarating material for the voyage.
A beautiful sail up the bay; a view of the battle-ground of San Jacinto; a description of the positions occupied by the Mexican forces of Santa Anna, and the Texans in hot pursuit; the perfect slaughter of the former; the finding of the Mexican leader up a tree, and many other details from an old Texan who was engaged in the combat, passed the time agreeably, and we were in the narrow Buffalo Bayou, the branches of the trees grazing our wheel-houses. The little town of Harrisburg, fifteen miles below Houston, was burnt by the Mexicans. It should have been the head of navigation, it was remarked, but the Allens founded the city as it now is, and built a capital and engaged the settlers to occupy it. There are some thirty frame houses being erected per month. I visited the log cabin still standing, occupied formerly by Sam Houston. Took a ride on the seven-mile prairie; visited General Hunt, Secretary of the Navy, President Lamar, and was presented to Sam Houston, Ex-President, at New Orleans, on my return to that city. The accommodations, of course, in a new country just opened, cannot be expected to equal those of old settled cities. Carriages are not yet introduced; stumps still stand in the streets. Time has scarcely permitted to make foundation walls, but the buildings are set up on blocks, giving the pigs and chickens free ingress underneath.
My luggage was taken on a wheelbarrow, and at the first hotel I stopped at I verdantly called for a single room; the landlord smiled, and said that he had only a single one, which was a fifty-bedded room, and all occupied. My curiosity induced me to see it. There were rows of bunks, not unlike coffins in size, a little raised from the floor. I then proceeded to another hotel, which was also full, the rush of emigrants, land-purchasers, and speculators, being great.
I found a private house, but did not ask for a single room; there were three apartments for three beds each, with two and three in a bed. My Mississippi companion and myself were obliged to double up; we could lie upon our backs and studyastronomy through the roof, and in case of rain put our clothes under the bed.
Our single rough pine table was well covered with arms, which travellers use largely for safety and shooting. Deer are found in great abundance, consequently venison, as well as fish and oysters, in the vicinity of Galveston, is abundant.
After some few excursions I returned to New Orleans, much gratified with my trip, and the exhibition of American energy in adapting itself to the settlement of a new country.
I asked a Mississippi land speculator what he thought of Houston. He unhesitatingly replied: “It is the largest three-year-old I ever saw.”
The steamer Merchant brought me through Lake Pontchartrain, sighting Fort Pike in the pass to Lake Bourgne, passing the mouth of Pearl river and the Dauphin Island, into the Gulf of Mexico, and up Mobile Bay to the city. The shipping lies thirty miles below; light draught ships and brigs come up to the city; heavy vessels load by lighters; large numbers of steamers are at the wharves from the Upper Tombigbee and Alabama rivers. It is an agreeable city, with hospitable inhabitants, and an extensive cotton trade; many broad fine avenues and streets are studded with the Pride of India, a tree filling the air with fragrance.
My friends have driven me out to Spring Hill in the suburbs, with its pretty private residences, the race-course, Choctaw point, and other localities. The hotel is comfortable; the markets and restaurants are well supplied, and lunches at the saloons supply the inner man with game, Barataria Bay oysters, and all their accompaniments. The South prides itself upon its choice imported liquors, and the genuine leaf Havana cigars. The sabbath is well observed here; attendance at church is general. The negro population is well dressed and happy.
N. B. Some years since the writer visited Galveston, Houston, and many other portions of Texas in the interior, and was highly gratified at the great growth of the cities named, the style of brick dwellings which had replaced frame buildings, the march of civilization, and the general comfort. In the interim of time since his first visit he had seen the early settlement of California and Oregon, as well as the new states of Iowa, Minnesota,Missouri, Illinois, and watched the progress of American advancement.
The steamer Champion brought us in nine hours to Pensacola, well known as a United States’ Naval Station. We took the steamer Leroy for Lagrange, with three passengers, passing through Santa Rosa sound; the island of the same name rose in the distance, by moonlight, like a walled city, with some verdure and shrub trees, and the beach of white sand appeared like snow; the main land, covered with live oak, has been purchased by Government, for ship building. We left Pensacola at fiveP.M.and arrived at Lagrange in time for breakfast, and took stage for Choctahatchie, Dead Lake, where we left the conveyance and went a mile and a half in small boats to connect with another stage coach. This Dead Lake is surrounded with cypress trees, and abounds with alligators; a huge fellow, with distended jaws, showed himself beside our little canoe; we fired a musket shot and he sank. We crossed the Choctahatchie, a rapid stream, in a small boat, walked up the hill to a barn, and found a stage to proceed. Magnolias of immense height were found in the everglades in abundance, and in full bloom. A day’s ride from Lagrange brought us to the village of Mariana; we stopped at Holmes’ Village, P. O., and dined by the road in a log-house, in a wilderness of pines; we could look through the sides and roof of this dwelling. The woman said she had nothing in the house for dinner, which was true: salt bacon, corn bread, and buttermilk, were the prominent articles. At Mariana, twenty-seven miles from the Chattahoochie, we found supper and the first signs of a town since we left Pensacola. Leaving Mariana, the stage had seven passengers inside and three outside, with heavy luggage; coming down Chipola hill, the equilibrium was almost lost; we were going over when the driver let the horses go to save an upset, and they ran away. A refractory horse has given us a good fright. We crossed the Apalachicolariver in a flat, poled up the stream, and took the current to the opposite bank; negroes lay by a camp fire waiting for the boat. Walked a mile to Mount Vernon, and stopped at Scott’s new Arsenal and Magazine; the steamer coming in view, we heard the puff of steam fifteen miles. I took the steamer Commerce for Apalachicola; we had undertaken to haul a raft of timber, when we saw the Irvington coming. Come on, boys, says the Irvington. Don’t be alarmed, says the Capt. of the Commerce. Firemen all anxious, passengers hurried on board. Cut the hawser, cries the Capt.; now go it. The vibration of the boat was excessive; we could scarcely raise a cup to the lips at table; boilers and flues almost red hot, the upper deck grew so hot that my clothing in the trunk was heated through. The scenery is pretty, the trees and growth of underbrush and cane-brake, down to river bank of this serpentine river, are picturesque.
We beat our enemy, and he was obliged to round to, as a make-believe, for wood.
I found Apalachicola a small place, with some good brick stores; the shipping lies below, brigs and schooners only get over the bar. They are trying to make St. Joseph a rival, with a railway from Iola to the junction of the Chattahoochie and Flint rivers, but it is not probable that the river trade can be diverted from its natural channel. I visited cotton plantations to see the young plant growing, and the gins for dressing; saw the poisonous moccasin snakes, five feet long, and alligators in abundance. Visited Quincy, a county seat, in Florida; the stage had eleven passengers, nine inside, among the rest a gentleman’s black servant; in the night I found him fast asleep, quietly resting on my shoulder. I supped at Bainbridge, and tolerably well, and one man offered a Watumpka bill, to which the woman objected, and he said he could pay when he came along again. He left his card to the amusement of all concerned. We halted at a place in the piny woods, where the man had his wife and a dozen white-headed, flaxy children, dirty as pigs; he said he was from North Carolina, and could give us corn bread and molasses, fat bacon, and three cups of coffee, for the whole party.
At twelve at night coming to a station, I found a part of my baggage and valise missing; I put a negro on the track and wentmyself in search through the woods; detached one of the lead horses and sent another negro in hot pursuit. I heard or saw some wild animals in the brush, and hurried up and found the boys who had found my baggage by the road-side, where it had fallen. Arrived at Macon, on the Ocmulgee river; it is a pretty city, with several churches, a young ladies’ seminary, one of the largest in the Union, besides several banks. Rode from thence to Milledgeville, the capital of Georgia, thirty-six miles; a rough country, scenery different from that of Florida. A State Convention was being held to reduce the number of representatives in the Legislature. The public-houses were crowded. The Government House and States Prison are prominent buildings.
The heat and dust were overpowering. I took supper at Sparta at twelve at night, arrived at Warrenton at fourA.M.; went to bed and slept for the first time in three days. I was rejoiced to find the first railroad since I left New Orleans; rode fifty-one miles to Augusta, on the Savannah river. The yellow nankeen cotton is produced in this section. They are now raising 20,000 bales of staple annually. The city has ten thousand population. There are many northern people among the residents; the markets, wharfs, public buildings, and society give evidence of thrift and progress. The Morus multicaulis speculation is now the rage. This reminds me of meeting a northern man in Matanzas, who proposes taking out plants to get the winter growth and profit by the advance of the cuttings. The bubble will soon burst. Hamburg, in South Carolina, lies on the opposite bank of the Savannah, connecting with a bridge, where are seen the fortifications of nullification days.
I left Augusta by the South Carolina Railroad for Charleston, stopping at Aiken, a dining station on the road, where a hurried dinner was taken, and the bell rung when the party was half through, which induced one of the number to snatch a roasted fowl, to the amusement of the passengers and chagrinof the landlord. The distance was one hundred and thirty-six miles, mostly in light soil and pine wood region. There were some good plantations. When in sight of the Four Mile House I recognised the spot which I had visited some years previous. The great oak trees were still standing as if clad in mourning, with the moss three or four feet in length hanging from the branches.
In the low humid regions of Texas, and upon the banks of rivers, are found large quantities of this material, which is dried and used for mattresses, cushions, etc., and is quite an article of commerce. My mind was carried back to my former retreat on Sullivan’s Island, upon which is situated Fort Moultrie, and which is the resort and residence of many who fly thither to enjoy the sea air, and to escape the fevers produced from the low banks of the Ashley and Cooper rivers, and the marshes in the neighborhood.
I tarried six days enjoying the hospitalities of numerous friends whom I had known there, and in Cuba. My health had suffered some from exposure, and I was happy to repose myself. The steamer Gov. Dudley took me to Wilmington, N.C., upon Cape Fear river.
The great quantity of saw-dust from the steam mills and bark from the tannery, filled up the low places. The trade of the place is in pitch, tar, and turpentine. I crossed over the river to look at the rice fields, which at will are flooded from the river. Gangs of negroes were engaged in hoeing and pulling out weeds.
Our landlord gave us the best the place afforded. But he was a wag, and had placed the sharpest-breasted turkey I had ever met with on the table. Standing at the head, he disarmed all complaint by saying: “Now, gentlemen, I wish to call your attention to this bird. He was kept for the races, and could outrun any turkey in all Wilmington.” A burst of laughter ensued, and all were delighted with the dinner. We proceeded from Wilmington to Waynesburg on the Neuse river, eighty miles, and were obliged to take stage over a corduroy road, the railway not being yet constructed within seventy miles of Abbeville.
Such a horrible jolting I had never experienced, except in the low grounds along the Bay of Quinte in Canada. Railsand logs were thrown across marshy soil with but little earth upon them, and from time to time one found himself with his hat over his eyes, striking the top of the stage. At three in the morning we found ourselves at the point where the railway was progressing. The little tavern had only one bed left. What was to be done? I had made application and secured it. We were all exhausted with the ride, and six passengers had equal claims for a portion.
The bed was taken off, placed upon the floor, and occupied by three. Two took the bed cords, with some of the covering, and I reconnoitred the house. I found a country doctor’s room with his pharmacy and some anatomical remains; as good luck would have it for once, his services had been required elsewhere, so the doctor’s room was occupied, and Morpheus’s subject lost sight of dry bones. Twenty miles by rail brought us to Weldon, and from thence to Petersburgh, Virginia, on the Appomatox river. Here I visited some friends whom I had formerly known at Tappahanock, on the Rappahannock river, when I first visited the Old Dominion.
The writer of these Letters, finding his health, which had improved from his last winter’s trip to Cuba, again suffering in a northern climate, left the cold weather behind him, and proceeded south, via Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, Richmond, and thence to Charleston. He made the outside passage to Savannah by steamer, and thence proceeded by steamboats to Brunswick, in Georgia, passing through the Florida wilds to Tallahassee, at imminent risk from the Seminole Indians. From Tallahassee he proceeded to St. Joseph, and embarked for Mobile and New Orleans, which cities he had left the spring before. He revisited the island of Cuba during the winter, and returned in the spring to the Crescent City. He took steamer bound up the Red river to Natchitoches and Alexandria; returned and visited Natchez, Mississippi, a few days after the great tornado, which destroyed a large portion of the city under the hill, and did immense damage in the city on the bluff. Many lives were lost, and a fleet of flat-boats and steamers sunk. He then proceeded up the Mississippi to Memphis,Tennessee, and St. Louis, Missouri; from the latter place he embarked for Louisville, Kentucky, and Cincinnati. His next route was via Wheeling, Virginia, over the beautiful Cumberland pass of the Alleghany mountains to Hagerstown and Frederick, Maryland; thence to Baltimore; up to Philadelphia, and so home.
To avoid repetition, and inasmuch as the cities and countries of our Union are so generally known, and, not to tax the reader, he has avoided the recounting of the thousand incidents of travel which would require too much space in this limited work. Suffice it to say, he returned in improved health, with a superficial knowledge, at least, of the products and resources of our country.