Frankfort, Germany, 1848.
From Munich I proceeded to Ulm, the frontier town of Würtemberg, on the opposite bank of the Danube from Bavaria. The Gothic cathedral there is the most curious object for a stranger, and is now a Protestant church. The body of this church is the largest in Germany, and is a second St. Peter’s in size, being four hundred and sixteen feet long, one hundred and sixty-six feet wide, and one hundred and forty-four feet high, with five aisles; the terrace is unfinished, and is three hundred and thirty-seven feet high. There are some fine old stained glass windows, and some remarkable carved work in the building.
I had once tasted of snail soup in Naples, which, during the season of Lent, is considered a great delicacy, but I did not know, until I came to Ulm, that there was a snail market. They say they export millions of them yearly into Austria, and other parts of the country. They are produced in the vicinity, and put up in casks for exportation.
From Ulm I went to Stuttgart, by diligence. It is the royal residence of the king of Würtemberg, who is so celebrated for his love of horses. I saw him driving a fine pair, of the Hungarian Esterhazy breed, through the park, with apparent satisfaction. The manager of the stables of the Prince is an Englishman. The prince married a Russian princess, the daughter of the Emperor Nicholas, and had some Russian carriages and droskys with a Russian driver in costume—the first I had seen.
This Englishman accompanied me through the Crown Prince and King’s stables, and showed the horses belonging to government for the improvement of stock. I counted in all two hundred and ten belonging to the king and his son, and one hundred and eighty for the account of the crown. Arabian, Russian, Hungarian, English, and Persian horses are to be found here. The stables, the harness rooms, and carriage repositories were on a grand scale; but the sovereign people will say when the time comes, “The expenses are too great; we cannot submit any longer to these extravagances.”
Stuttgart is a well-built and interesting city, surrounded by hills covered with the grape, with fine palace-gardens and a park, traversed by carriage roads and promenades for some miles.
I went to Kannstadt, some four or five miles from the city, to the mineral springs, which are much frequented by the inhabitants. The railroad passes through the place, and there are agreeable walks to return, for pedestrians, along the valley of the river Neckar, and through the palace park to the city.
From Stuttgart I made my way by diligence to Carlsruhe, and here struck the railroad for Baden Baden. Carlsruhe has not much of interest for the traveller. It is the capital of the Grand Duchy of Baden, is dull, with sandy soil, but being a royal residence, has a very fine park. It is curiously built, and is described by a writer as being in the form of a fan, or rather a wheel—the main streets, like the spokes, all radiate from the Palace, which terminates the vista in every street, so that the citizens who wish to know which way the wind blows need only look to the palace weather-cock.
Everybody has heard of Baden Baden, so famous as a fashionable watering-place, and all who have visited it can speak of the beauty of its locality, surrounded by hills and mountains, and its narrow valley with its delightful shady walks; but this year they are quite deserted. The princes have enough to do to take care of their subjects; citizens remain at home to look after their interests; the blacklegs find their avocation almost gone. There is not one-third the usual number of arrivals, consequently the balls, concerts, and gaming tables are less frequented.
Baden Baden is certainly a lovely spot for the invalid, or the man of pleasure; combining the advantages of public life, or solitude in the dark woods, which can be reached in a few minutes. As I before observed, all have heard of Baden Baden, so all have heard of the Castle of Heidelberg, which is a magnificent ruin, and formerly the palace and fortress of the Elector Palatine. It is situated upon a high hill, and approached by a winding footpath on the side of the city. It was one of the strongholds of the middle ages, and is of different styles of architecture by different founders, and has been burnt at different times and rebuilt. It was last burnt by lightning, and remains a ruin, although parts are quite perfect.
One guide takes you through all the castle, and shows the relics and implements of war yet preserved, mounts the bastions and towers, from which the view is unsurpassed; another conducts you into the cellar of the castle, to see the famous Wine Tun, which is the largest in the world, and contained eight hundred hogsheads, or nearly three hundred thousand bottles, and, it is said, in former times, when filled with the fruit of the vintage, they danced on the platform. This tun will not compare with a vat I once saw in the immense brewing establishment of Barclay, Perkins & Co., of London, which contained four thousand hogsheads of porter.
Mannheim is only a short distance from Heidelberg, and is a city of some twenty thousand inhabitants, but possesses nothing of sufficient interest to the traveller to detain him long. The gardens behind the palaces, and terraces along the banks of the Rhine, are quite pretty. It was once a walled city, but was besieged by the French and reduced to ashes, and now has no protection, which, as experience has proved, saves a city from the horrors of a siege.
The city next on my route to Frankfort was Darmstadt, the capital of the Grand Duke. The gardens of the palace are beautifully laid out, and all through this section of country vegetation is very luxuriant. The rides through the country with the villages and towns prettily located at the foot of the mountains, overhung with clusters of grapes, and surrounded with orchards, make it very interesting for the traveller.
This free city of Frankfort, which I visited some years ago, has more the air of life and bustle, I find, than many other German cities, which may in part be attributed to the fact that there are now many strangers from all parts of Germany, as members of the Confederation, and for the reception of the new Vicar General of the German Union, the Archduke John, of Austria, who has just been received with great honors by the military, succeeded by an illumination of the whole city—a very splendid affair. The immense circular church—now converted into an Assembly for the representatives of the whole German Empire, comprising six hundred, and which with the galleries extending all around, will hold perhaps more persons than the Tabernacle in New York—was filled to overflowing on the presentation of the Prince to the Assembly. I could withdifficulty procure a seat by going early, and immense numbers were obliged to withdraw for want of room. Numerous addresses were delivered, to which the Archduke responded. He was dressed in uniform, and accompanied by the whole force of the National Guard to the National Assembly. He looked calm and dignified, with a good expression of face, and is sixty-six years old. His task will be arduous, as well as that of the assembly, to amalgamate the different races and sects of the German and Austrian Empire, and will not be accomplished until more blood flows.
I assure you I was greatly rejoiced to arrive at Frankfort, which is an interesting city, and has many sights to interest a stranger. I was pleased to arrive in a city where I could so agreeably repose myself. The gardens and pleasure grounds which encircle Frankfort, occupy the place of former fortifications, and make a delightful retreat for the inhabitants during the warm weather. The principal garden among the number was beautifully illuminated the night following the reception of Prince John, and as the German bands always afford good music, all the élite were found sipping coffee and partaking of ices, and other refreshments.
This is the residence of many bankers, and here the Rothschilds were born, in the Judenstrasse or Jews’ street, and when I was last here I went to see the house where the mother still resided, and refused to give up the old confined quarters for the palace of her son. The condition of the Jews has been much ameliorated here as well as in all parts of Europe.
When I first saw the Jews’ quarters in Rome, under Pope Gregory XVI., they were confined within small limits, in narrow, dark, dirty lanes and streets, where the sun’s rays scarcely reached them; a population of about six thousand huddled together in filth, by daylight, when the gates were open, carrying on their trade in old clothes, second-hand articles of all kinds, readymade clothing, &c. But thanks to the liberal mind of Pope Pius IX., the gates have been beaten down and the Jews may now be seen locating themselves in other parts of the city, although the mass prefer to keep together.
My health not being yet established, I have consulted a celebrated physician, of the race I have just spoken of, who advises me to drink the waters of Ems, recommended highly for allpulmonary and bronchial diseases, and I shall go via Wiesbaden and Schwalbach to the above-named place, and make trial of them.
Bath of Ems, Duché de Nassau, 1848.
After leaving Frankfort I came to Wiesbaden via Mayence, by railroad, which is rapidly accomplished, but being familiar with those places my stay was short, and I took the diligence to the Baths of Schwalbach, and from thence to this place, where I bought a Bohemian stained glass goblet, an indispensable article to every water drinker, and took up my position at the fountain in the line of invalids.
Ems has been entirely quiet and tranquil, and seems to stand aloof from the Revolutions all around us. Almost every house is a lodging-house or hotel, and the people and peasantry have an interest in keeping quiet.
About one thousand strangers are here at present, the larger portion in pursuit of health, and society is more select and less gay than at the other watering places. The balls, concerts, and gaming tables are less frequented than in Baden Baden and Wiesbaden. The musical band commences at seven in the morning in the promenade, and continues playing until eight, during which time the drinkers swallow their three or four glasses at intervals of fifteen minutes, while the physicians are mingling with their patients to inquire after their health, and give counsel, if needed. One o’clock is the table d’hôte, in all the hotels, when everybody dines; after which the company adjourn and take coffee in the walks in the garden, listening to the music; or go in parties of pleasure along the banks of the beautiful river Lahn, or cross over the bridge of boats to the opposite side and branch off among the hills and cliffs, by the footwalks which extend in every direction. Droves of donkeys with their drivers are always at hand, and are all numbered, which is a good idea, as they are not all sure-footed, and when one is proved can always be engaged in advance, which is important for the ladies, as large numbers scale the hills and vine-clad heights in this manner.
From six to eight in the afternoon, when the heat is less intense, Ems is seen to best advantage. Then all the visitors appear upon the public walks, and the ladies, of whom there is a large proportion, as it is considered essentially a ladies’ watering-place, are promenading in the garden, en grande toilette, or seated under the shady trees listening to the music from the band.
Almost every house has its name, and where I am living, upon the banks of the river Lahn, it is called Lust Garten, or in English, the Pleasure Garden. The high walls with a sort of terrace separate us from the river, with a beautiful garden adorned with plants and flowers, which gives the house its name; in the rear of the garden rise the cliffs to a great elevation, which are walled, and covered with the clustering grape. The town is so shut in by hills that sometimes the heat is oppressive, but in a few minutes one may escape into the woods and winding paths on the opposite side.
Notwithstanding among so many persons there are numbers in good health who accompany their friends thither, and who can enjoy life, and many whose ailings are trivial, and who need not deprive themselves of luxuries, still there are many, very many, real sufferers, who naturally put the best foot foremost, and keep up appearances; but the hollow cough and the hectic flush tell too truly of the ravages of that disease which is so flattering.
One of the vices of these watering-places is that of gambling. The new Kursaal built by the Grand Duke, has a handsome Café, gambling rooms, with hazard tables, and is open from eleven to one o’clock and from three to ten in the afternoon. A large ball-room is attached, with marble columns, sofas, and rich furniture. Although there is less gambling here than at other places, still there is too much, and it is curious that some ladies have also a great propensity for gaming. At a public festival the other evening, on the occasion of the birthday of the Grand Duke (in the Kursaal), I was in company with several ladies, and the husband of one of the number, whom I considered a decided invalid and a man of fortune, was at the gaming table. He had previously won, but fortune had turned against him; he continued to lose; his friends begged him to desist; his wife watched him with tearful interest; I saw the hectic flush uponhis cheek, and the perspiration starting from his forehead; he staked the last piece of gold in his purse; suffice it to say he lost, and in an agitated state we induced him to leave the room. A few days later he left for Switzerland.
With the exception of a Russian family whom I met in Nice and Genoa, I have not found any of the Italian travellers of last winter; but one is not at a loss for acquaintances, for here are French, Germans, Russians, Hollanders, English, and a few Italians, and as I have been a sufferer myself, and was in possession of some medical works and treatises for the diseases of the chest and bronchial tubes, which were new, my physician adopted them for his patients, which brought me in contact with them.
We have excursions up along the river to Nassau, about six miles, which can be made by carriage or donkey. Among these, are rides to Kenmau, back of Ems, which can be accomplished after dinner, and where one has a very expanded view from the top of the mountain of the whole country lying below. One goes to Coblentz in about two hours by omnibus, where passengers arrive coming up the Rhine to visit Ems. This, the great bulwark of Germany, and the castle of Ehrenbreitstein, the Gibraltar of the Rhine, standing on the summit of a rock nearly eight hundred feet above the level of the river, opposite Coblentz, together with the defences on both banks of the Rhine, and the Moselle, which there falls into the former, are capable of containing a force which might resist any attack, and are considered impregnable. The road hence to Coblentz is very pretty, and the residents at the Baths frequently go down to do their shopping. In passing the turnpike gate I was amused at the manner of receiving the tolls. The turnpike keeper, instead of coming out and taking the fee, sits smoking his hanging meerschaum pipe, and with a slow movement rises with his pipe in his mouth, and in his hand a long stick with a box on the end, which he shoves forward and receives the coin, he then draws in his prize and closes the window.
The Germans are a quiet, patient, forbearing, good-natured people, but the revolution in France awoke them to a sense of their rights, and the despotism of kings and petty princes, which they are trying to shake off. At Ehrenbreitstein castle I saw them making preparations for the Schleswig Holstein warwith the Danes, having just received orders from the Prussian king to send on a body of troops.
These waters are of great service in most pulmonary cases, but I find the free use of them and strict regimen in eating is calculated to weaken the stomach and appetite, and the associating with invalids and hearing their repeated complaints and sufferings, is anything but agreeable, and calculated to operate upon the spirits, as mind has a great effect over matter.
Copenhagen, Denmark, 1848.
I floated down the Rhine from Coblentz to Cologne, reviewing my recollections of the localities of that beautiful river, rendered doubly interesting from its historical associations and old legends, with all its varieties of wild and picturesque scenery; towns and villages and fertile plains upon its banks; thick forests and vine-clad hills, and old chateaus, and rivers in the distance.
I remained but a single day in Cologne. The great Cathedral, which was begun in 1248, and which would have been, if completed, one of the finest Gothic monuments in Europe, with towers five hundred feet high, has been left in an unfinished state for centuries, but of late years the king of Prussia has made large appropriations towards its repairs and gradual completion. I find the work has progressed moderately, and the king of Bavaria has made a splendid present of stained glass windows, which will be exhibited publicly in a few days, when the centennial anniversary of the Cathedral takes place, and there will be a great re-union of kings, princes, and plebeians. A few years since when I was in Prussia, and travelled by private post, or the conveyances of the country, it occupied much more time in making distance, but one saw the country to better advantage; now the railroads are constructed in many parts, and the traveller is transported from one city to another with locomotive speed.
I came from Cologne to Hanover and Brunswick, and then retraced my steps in order to visit Bremen, and from thence returned, via Hanover, to take my departure for Hamburg,accomplishing the entire distance by railway with less fatigue and in less time than if I had crossed the country, which is a much shorter way; but one is exposed to night travel and the want of pure air, as the Germans have a horror of an open window, and are constantly enveloped in a cloud of smoke. On some of the German railways they have third and fourth class cars. In France and Belgium, and in fact all over Europe, the genteel traveller takes the first class car; not so in Germany, for there the second class is almost as well mounted as the first, and is part of the same car with partitions; the third class receives those who like more air, free smoking, economy, and hard seats. The Germans say that none but princes and fools take first class cars; but if one must pass a part of the night on the railroad, and wishes to be quiet with a car to himself, without society, then they are preferable. On some of the German roads no luggage is carried free; on others from thirty to fifty pounds are allowed the passenger; in some instances for five pounds overweight of the scale, which varies on the different roads, I have paid as much as an American dollar—a caution to those who make long voyages with much luggage.
Hanover, the residence of the old king Ernest, is on the river Leine, with a population of some thirty thousand inhabitants. It is a curious old town, with peculiar Gothic houses, and is remarkable for a superfluity of windows, which, if they were subject to the light tax of England, would soon ruin their owners. The Esplanade, in which stands the Waterloo Monument, a column one hundred and fifty-six feet high, with a statue of Victory, dedicated to the Hungarians who fell in that conflict, presented a gay scene, on the occasion of a Sunday parade of all the troops, prior to the reception of the king of Prussia, who was expected to halt there while on his way to the Cologne celebration.
I had a view from the top of the column of a rich, fertile, and beautiful country lying in the distance, with the turn-out of the citizens and peasantry in holiday attire, after the church service of the morning, and the evolutions of the horse, artillery, and infantry, near the base of the column, and an imposing sight it was. I had seen most of the monarchs of Europe in my journeyings, except King William, who was absent when I was at Potsdam, his residence; but here I had the opportunity of seeing hisreception and all his courtiers, with all that famous troop of cream-colored and black horses, of the English breed, from the royal stables.
Brunswick, the capital of another of these German princes, who have so long tried to outvie each other in the splendor of their palaces, parks, &c., to the detriment of their subjects, is a very old city of thirty-five thousand inhabitants. The palace is a tasteful and splendid building. It is said that the old one was burnt by some of the citizens, who were obliged to replace it by a much more costly and beautiful edifice, and the Duke is now sumptuously quartered. The antiquity of the city strikes the eye of a stranger, particularly the gable-ends of the houses to the streets, steep roofs with rows of windows in them, and the immense number of windows in the fronts. The famous corps of Black Brunswickers was parading in the palace grounds—the first of this uniform I had ever seen—and looked frightful. They wore black cloth uniform, slightly relieved, and black horsehair plumes with death’s-head and cross-bones; they are said to be valorous, and particularly attached to the Duke.
The railroad depot at Brunswick is very splendid; in fact, in several parts of Germany the depots are furnished in the most sumptuous style, the buildings in some places being like palaces of Gothic architecture, some with towers, and the waiting saloons of the first and second class passengers furnished with sofas and divans, covered with rich stuffs; in short, they have spent too much money for the interest of the shareholders.
On visiting Bremen, I was struck with that air of cleanliness and comfort which one finds in Holland. It is one of the free cities of Germany, lying on the river Weser, and one with which we have a growing trade. I expected to find the steamer Washington there, as her commander, Captain Johnson, came from our section of country; but she lay down the river, at Bremerhaven, and was just about departing. The city has a population of some forty-five thousand, and has fine new white houses upon the streets, which front the walks, and boulevards which extend around the city.
The quantity of tobacco imported from America is immense; it is manufactured here and sent through all Germany, and one sees the names of all our states and towns noted for “the weed” figuring in the shop windows.
The old town is quite like the other German towns, and has some curiosities. The old cathedral has a vault which contains some bodies which have been preserved from decomposition for centuries. But an exhibition of this kind at Bordeaux is most curious; for there are the remains of some twenty persons, whose history is known from the tombstones; when disinterred they were found, from the peculiarity of the soil, with the flesh only wasted. The mummies were placed around the low vault, lighted by torches; and among the number was a colossal man who killed himself by a trial of strength; another, a girl buried in a trance, and now exhibiting all the horrible forms and agonies of starvation and despair, with a portion of her own body devoured.
On my arrival at Hamburg, I found the river Elbe, upon which it stands, blockaded by the Danes, and the merchants complaining bitterly. This city is eighty miles from the mouth of the river, and is divided in many places by canals and crossed by bridges; and in the old town, the houses, bridges, and quays reminded me of Amsterdam. The city has a population of some one hundred and forty thousand, and possesses an immense amount of commerce. The great fire a few years ago has been the means of beautifying that portion of the city which was destroyed, for now the burnt district is rebuilt, and will compare for splendor with any of the continental cities. The old fortifications and ramparts around the city are now, as in many other capitals, thrown down, and covered with trees, plants, and flowers, which afford a breathing-place for the inhabitants, and a delightful promenade.
There are no remarkable collections of art, or curiosities for a stranger, in Hamburg. The promenades in the gardens, the cafés crowded with both sexes, the sight of the water parties, in their gaily painted boats, a stroll through the gardens in the evening, listening to the music, and viewing the dances and waltzes of all classes, is quite sufficient to occupy the time of a traveller. I met here, at the same hotel, an old travelling acquaintance, who left me in the West Indies some three years ago, and who had since made the campaign of Mexico. I allude to Mr. Kendall, of theNew Orleans Picayune, who is now writing a history of the war. In walking out together, said he, “Do you see that coffin? There goes another coffin!” Andin fact so it appeared to be. The servant girls and cooks rarely go out without being gaily dressed; at all events, a splendid shawl is arranged under the arm so as to cover a basket in the exact form of a child’s coffin; and it matters not whether it is fish, butter, cheese, or dirty clothes for the wash, it must always be covered with a shawl.
Altona, a populous town and a part of the Duchy of Holstein, belongs to Denmark, and is now in dispute; it is in the immediate vicinity of Hamburg, so that the two cities have almost grown together. I there found troops collecting together from the different German states, to go forward to Schleswig and Holstein.
The distance from Hamburg to Lubeck, where I took the steamer for Copenhagen, is about forty-five miles, and is made by diligence. We were three in the coupé, or front apartment of the vehicle; and to my surprise, for the first time in Germany, my companions did not smoke either pipe or cigar.
The free town of Lubeck is a very antiquated place, with its Gothic churches, and venerable public buildings, and has not changed very much in general appearance since the days of its prosperity. Its population is not one half of what the city is capable of containing; and the lifeless streets, in many parts overgrown with grass, tell the story of deserted commerce. There is sufficient, however, of interest here to keep the traveller a day or two, to look at the old paintings and other works of art in the churches, some of which are very superior. One of the paintings upon wood, of the style of the fifteenth century, would compare with those at Florence. It was a representation of the events of the Passion of our Saviour, from the agony in the garden to the resurrection, depicted in twenty-three distinct groups introduced in the landscape, in the background of which appears Jerusalem. Another very curious painting, occupying three sides of one room, was The Dance of Death, with the Pope, the bishop, the king, the merchant, the banker, and others, all in appropriate dress, with dialogues inscribed above them; but the skeleton Death always had the advantage. It has been preserved since the fourteenth century, and is only valuable for the design, which is curious.
The passage from Lubeck, by steamer, to Copenhagen, was made in less than twenty-four hours. This residence and capital of the King of Denmark is a large commercial city, with a populationof some two hundred thousand inhabitants. The Danes, being surrounded by water, have naturally become good sailors, and their greatest strength in carrying on the war consists in their fleet, with which they have captured and now have one hundred and ten German vessels in port. It is quite amusing in going from one country to another to look at the caricatures in the shop windows; in Germany, the Danes are escaping from the battle-grounds in awful plight, but here the tables are turned and the Dutchmen have got the worst of it.
The palaces and parks are not very remarkable, but there are some fine gardens and places of resort for the multitude, one of which, the Tivoli, is fitted up with much taste. Those who want amusements, in the way of theatres, jugglers, singing, miniature railroads, or a look at the zoological collections, can have their choice here. The grounds of the cemetery are very extensive and beautifully laid out, as is the case in most parts of Germany, and I have in very many cases visited them. The greatest respect is paid by friends to the ashes of the dead; it is gratifying to see mothers and sisters quietly employed in plucking the weeds from among the blooming flowers, and watering the plants growing over the graves of those they loved. They have a custom here of embanking the borders of the grave with white sand, while on the top are presented beautiful little flower gardens under the shade of the weeping willow and other trees.
This was the birthplace of the celebrated sculptor Thorwaldsen, whose studio I visited in Rome some years ago, and who has since died, leaving the bulk of his property to found a Museum for his vast collection of art. In one of the churches is seen his colossal figure of Christ, elevated on a pedestal behind the altar, with the twelve apostles ranged on both sides of the body of the church, and in an apartment of this same building rest the mortal remains of this great artist, until the museum is complete, when they will be transported thither, and rest with the wonderful works produced by the skill of his hands. It is a large building, centrally situated, with spacious halls and apartments filled with the originals in marble and plaster, or copies in marble of the great works of this man which are found in Italy and all parts of Europe, and it appears only surprising that even in living to an advanced age he could have executed so much in one lifetime.
Christiania, Norway, 1848.
From Copenhagen to Gottenburg, in Sweden, is about one hundred and twenty-five miles. The steamer strikes up and through the Straits of Cattegat, touching at Elsinore, the stronghold of the Danes, where there is a beautiful citadel. Helsingburg, on the opposite shore, is visible to the naked eye. The Danes yet adhere to an old custom, and demand tribute of all vessels navigating the North Sea and the Baltic, traversing the Straits, but without a shadow of justice.
Gottenburg is considerable of a commercial city, with a population of forty thousand, and carries on a large trade with England and other countries in lumber from the interior of Sweden, via the canals and lakes. They have here some large cotton mills, sugar refineries, and the largest porter brewery, for the supply of all Sweden, that I have seen on the continent, except in London, and which strangers are directed to as a curiosity. I saw here a full cargo of cotton just arrived from New Orleans, and also one hundred bales of American hops. Our treaty with Sweden is a bad one. They have all the advantages of the carrying trade, and in return they tax our products at a high rate. We are taking large quantities of iron annually from that country, and some attention should be given to our trade with Sweden by those whose business it is to attend to such matters.
The Danes and Norwegians speak one language, but the latter give more force to the words, and are not so effeminate as the former. The Swedish is another language, but it bears resemblance to that, similar to the affinity between the Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese tongues. I have met with many persons who spoke English, as might have been expected, there is so much trade with that country.
From Gottenburg, by steamer along the coast of Sweden, one enters the Gulf of Christiania, with its innumerable islands; touching at the little towns which are engaged chiefly in the lumber and fishing trade, and finally at the head of the gulf is seen the town from which I write, with a population of some thirty thousand, carrying on an extensive trade in lumber, fish, iron, &c. This whole northern country, in the interior, fromwhich I have just returned, having made an excursion to the iron works, reminds one in many respects of the state of Maine. The ship building, pine forests, and salmon fishery, bear analogy to our northern latitude.
They have a great abundance of lobsters of the best quality. Very little fruit is found here, except green apples, and the August cherry, which is yet scarcely ripe; there are fewer flowers than in Italy in the month of May. Such is the difference of duration of heat between the climate of the sunny south, and the more rigid regions of the north. They have yet no fear of the cholera, which is still remote; but at Gottenburg we were kept in suspense for half an hour by the quarantine officers, who suspected the disease had appeared in Copenhagen, although we had a clean bill of health. The potato disease has reached this country, and I see its ravages in many places.
The light summer nights—the day scarcely obscured—the Aurora Borealis, or northern lights—the wild and romantic country of the north—these things strike an inhabitant of the south of Europe who visits this country for the first time.
The Norwegians are a fine race of men, of light, ruddy complexion, and are capable of hard service. They are much attached to their country and pine groves, yet the charm of freedom has drawn away many to our own land. This is the only part of the world that I have yet visited, where there are no Jews. Such is the horror of the race, that ancient laws, interdicting their settlement here, have not been repealed, although repeated efforts have been made. A Jew can only remain twenty-four hours in the country.
There are no curious sights here, as in other old countries; things are more premature, but there are some fine points of view, and nature puts on her gayest attire. I was gratified, however, in visiting an immense new prison in process of erection, for solitary confinement, to find a faithful copy of one in Pennsylvania. A new palace for king Oscar, who is obliged to pass a certain portion of the year here, is now completing. It is a large structure, and for Norway, does very well. The two governments of Norway and Sweden are subject to the one king, but the former has many privileges secured to her.
One peculiarity I noticed along the Norwegian roads. Every owner of land is obliged to keep his part in repair, and the lineis marked by stakes with a flat board, on which the name is painted; so that if the road is impassable, the traveller knows of whom to make complaint.
The currency is all silver, with the exception of bank notes to the value of about one dollar, and the expenses of life are nearly double those of Denmark, as all the luxuries of life come from abroad. The currency of Sweden, on the contrary, is almost all government paper, and the rag currency reminds me of our shin-plaster days. A paper rix-dollar is about twenty-five cents, and they have notes as low in value as eight cents of our money; the consequence is, that in getting a piece of coin changed of the value of an American dollar, you have a pocketful of rags in exchange.
The steamers employed on these routes this season are more indifferent than usual, as there are few passengers, and the best class of boats have been hauled off for the use of the government. King Oscar is now at Malmö, on the coast, within five hours of Copenhagen by sea, and has his army all prepared for a move in case the Germans enter Denmark. For the affair of Schleswig Holstein, which is debatable ground as to the rights of the two countries, he will not interfere; but if the Germans move an inch further into Denmark, then Norway and Sweden consider the cause their own.
Stockholm, Sweden, 1848.
Since I wrote you from Norway, I have, by means of private post, and public vehicles on the land route, and steamboats upon the lakes and canals, travelled entirely through Sweden; a country of which so little is known, and which is so beautiful and picturesque that I could not help being delighted. This country has been much favored by nature in the development of its internal resources, for its lakes, by the construction of immense canals and locks, which will compare for solidity and beauty with any in the world, have been connected with rivers in such a manner, that vessels of good size with their cargoes, as well as small steamboats, can traverse the entire width of the country, from Gottenberg on the west to Stockholm on the north-eastcoast. It is less tedious and more interesting for the traveller to vary the means of conveyance.
A few hours’ ride from Wenersborg, a small town situated upon a large lake which bears its name, and where it falls into the river Gotha, are the cataracts of Trolhatta, celebrated in all the north as the Niagara of Sweden. There are several falls which are separated by islands, and the scenery is wild and savage, and reminded me of the Niagara, although it is less majestic; I think it preferable to any of the cascades of Europe.
There is a sail by steamer of fifteen hours upon lake Wener, almost the entire length, to Holt, where stages take passengers to Örebro, a fine town, which has the peculiarity of most of the country towns in Sweden, the houses being built of wood and painted red, as well as the outbuildings and fences. There one takes the steamer and passes through a chain of small lakes and canals, amid numerous and picturesque islands, varying in form, with wild and enchanting scenery, bearing some resemblance to the groups of islands in the St. Lawrence.
The approach to Stockholm through the beautiful lake Mälar, with its banks richly cultivated and covered with villas, and occasionally a village, old chateau, or palace, is certainly very beautiful; and the city itself, situated upon seven islands, is only surpassed as a commercial port by Constantinople and Naples, and I consider the locality, in point of natural beauty, the third in Europe.
I have visited the objects most worthy of notice in the city, viz. the palace of the late king Bernadotte, containing all the relics and souvenirs of that monarch, who was a French General, and governed the Swedes for many years without acquiring any knowledge of their language, and as a natural consequence the French became the court language, which accounts for many persons being found here who speak it. His son, the present king Oscar, is educated with the language of the country. One of the churches is a perfect museum, containing a vast quantity of trophies, from Turkey and other parts of Europe, made in the conquests of Charles XII., together with all the relics identified with that warrior prince—the pride of Sweden; his chapeau, with the bullet-hole therein from which he received his death, as also his uniform, is preserved in a glass case. In the vaults lie the remains of all the Swedish kings, in gold gilded sarcophagi,ending with the last, Bernadotte. There are also a dozen stuffed horses ranged on each side of the building, clad in full coat of mail, with riders covered with armor and shields most elaborately wrought; altogether it is a handsome collection, and would bear comparison with the Turin or Dresden exhibitions. The water excursions to the gardens, and villas, and beautiful points of view, interest the stranger; for my knowledge of them I am indebted to the politeness of our minister, Col. Ellsworth. A steamboat excursion of one day to the Drollingholm Palace and grounds, the favorite residence of some of the former Swedish kings, is very interesting. An excursion by water to Upsala, famous for its university and cathedral, and thence by land to the immense and wonderful Dannemora Iron Mines, returning thence via the palace and grounds of Skokloster, which occupies about three days, is not only an interesting but an instructive one, and should not be omitted by any traveller visiting Sweden.
It would be useless to attempt a description of the contents or beauties of the palaces; suffice it to say then, that I was agreeably surprised to find such collections here in the north of Europe; though when I reflected that they were filled with the fruits of the conquests and robberies of General Bragh, from different parts of Germany, it was easily accounted for.
I chartered a carriage at Upsala and posted thence to the mines of Dannemora. I found the roads good, and horses small but fast. The unusual number of gates appeared singular; each farm or plantation has its own, and I suppose one hundred would not exceed the number passed in this voyage. Either my valet or the driver was continually getting down to open gates, where children were not found running to do so, to earn a small copper coin, which I was glad to throw to them to avoid delay.
Sweden is famous for the quality of its iron, particularly for making steel, large quantities of which go to England as well as America. These immense works, with five hundred men employed in the mines, are eight hundred feet deep; the opening would cover acres, and it is frightful to look into the deep chasm. There are millions of tons upon the grounds in the vicinity ready for smelting, which are transported to the different furnaces through the country. The houses andgrounds of the village belong to the company, as also the tracts of land for cultivation, and the workmen live on the spot, having their house rent free, and the privilege of purchasing grain at a low rate; they earnfifteen centsper day. The only wonder is how families can subsist on such pittances as the poor laborers obtain in many parts of Europe; and the question naturally arises, how can we develope the resources of our country, and pay remunerating prices for labor, in competition with the serfs of Europe, unless by a protective duty, which necessity will oblige us yet to adopt? How many millions of poor starving wretches there are in Europe who would rejoice to have their stomachs filled with the corn bread and bacon of the negroes of the south!
All the necessaries of life are abundant and cheap in Sweden, more so than in most other countries, but the cuisine is horrible. There are no table d’hôtes in the public-houses, and one is obliged to go to restaurants, which are very indifferent. One custom prevails throughout all Sweden, in restaurants, country-houses, and private houses; that is to offer the guest on a side table, what they call schnaps—a species of white brandy, with small particles of smoked salmon or ham, to prepare the appetite. The interior of a Swedish log cabin, in its rustic style, is a curiosity. From the ceiling, by means of network or wood frames, are suspended monthly supplies of black flat rye bread or cakes, with a hole in the centre; the whole battery of kitchen utensils is hung up on one side of a huge fireplace, and as the country abounds in timber the inhabitants need not freeze; the beds are a sort of boxes, hardly wide enough to turn round in, and the pillow is a sort of wedge, in the form of a letter V; in place of coverlids they give you a light feather bed, or one of eider down, which almost suffocates you; yet you dare not throw it off for fear of taking cold.
In the vicinity of the old and ruined town of Upsala, are seen some high mounds, which tradition says were the tombs of the heathen kings of Sweden. They are lofty and curious, and bear resemblance to some I have seen in the western part of our country, so I was induced to visit them. The present king, Oscar, ordered an excavation through the centre of the largest, and walled and piled up the passage as the work progressed, and sure enough, about the centre was found a deposit of humanbones, which are preserved and seen through a grate, after passing the line of the passage by torchlight.
The communication by steamer to St. Petersburg is broken up by the cholera, and the want of passengers, as imperial orders by the Emperor to all Russian ministers forbid a passport to other than Russian subjects. If I get into the Czar’s dominions it will be with courier passport, as bearer of despatches, and by a circuitous route, via Finland.
Northern Russia with Poland inclusive, being the only parts of Europe I have not visited, and being now in the extreme north, I should much regret not being able to visit those countries, which occupy so deeply the minds of all philanthropists, and which exercise such a powerful influence over the politics of Europe.
I am prepared to make some sacrifices and incur some risks, in order to finish entirely the continental tour, and if I succeed will write you from St. Petersburg.
St. Petersburg, Russia, 1848.
I wrote you last from the beautiful city of Stockholm, and stated that I intended visiting Russia if a passport could be procured; as in consequence of the revolutions in Europe, the Czar had given peremptory orders to all the Russian ministers not to grant a visé to any but Russian subjects. From this cause, and the prevalence of the cholera, and strict quarantine, no steamers were plying between the two countries.
The only means of entering Russia, therefore, was by taking a small steamer for Finland, then posting one hundred and fifty miles to Helsingfors, where a steamer would be found for Revel, in Livonia, and thence to Cronstadt and St. Petersburg. Through the politeness of our minister at Stockholm, Col. H. W. Elsworth, I was made bearer of despatches to St. Petersburg, but without charge to Uncle Sam, and took my departure on board of a small steamer, with four Finland passengers, who were Russian subjects, in a small cabin with two berths, and two settees. It reminded me in some respects of my expedition up the Nile, from the fact that we were obliged tolay in a stock of provisions ourselves, there being no restaurant on board. My friends dissuaded me from going, and I anticipated but little pleasure; but fortunately the weather was beautiful, and with a little German, mixed with Swedish, and one of our number who spoke French, we understood each other perfectly. In less than two days we had descended the river, traversed the straits, and coasted along through the thousand picturesque islands of Finland to Abo, a pleasant seaport of fifteen to twenty thousand inhabitants. I then took private conveyance and post horses, which went like the wind, on full gallop to Helsingfors, a considerable seaport, celebrated for its sea-baths, and much resorted to by the Russians. I found here a steamer for Livonia, and thence to this city.
This was an agreeable trip through Finland. The rude and primitive habits of the people; the wild, half-cultivated country; the common country inns, with the floors sprinkled with small branches and leaves of the pine tree, which imparted an odor throughout the house; the spittoons, instead of sand, filled with wild flowers—how novel everything was! In the month of June, the traveller can write up his journal at night without candles, as the sun sets at elevenP.M.and rises at twoA.M.This is the bright side of the picture; but in the winter, when imbedded in snow and ice, you can judge for yourselves of the amount of pleasure. When spring once breaks, vegetation comes forth rapidly, and from sixty to ninety days the crops are ready for the sickle.
St. Petersburg is considered the most brilliant capital in Europe, although it is situated upon the banks of the Neva, in a low and unhealthy location, and almost on a level with the river; the vast resources of Russia, however, have contributed to fill the marshes and build up the imperial city in all its grandeur, through the genius of the best artists from all countries, and here may be found a little of all which is produced in other parts of Europe. In approaching the city one is struck with the grandeur of the domes and spires of the churches, glittering with gold in the distance, and after entering it, with the magnificence of its monuments and public edifices. There is a good deal of style in the equipages, and the Russian horses are superior. It is less gay now than usual, in consequence of the cholera having made such ravages. The city is intersected byseveral large canals, in which the water is nearly stagnant, and emits in hot weather unhealthy effluvia. The people often drink the foul water of the canals in preference to incurring the expense of getting it from the river.
In the month of June, the people have a religious fast of three weeks’ duration, when they subsist on vegetables and fruits, abstaining from flesh and other nourishing food; which, with an unusual season for changes from heat to cold, augmented the cholera, which reached one thousand cases per day, five hundred of which were deaths. It has almost entirely subsided, or at least is not alarming; and out of the fifty thousand who fled the city at its approach, great numbers are returning from the interior.
We have just returned from a visit to the imperial summer residence at Peterhoff, on the banks of the Neva, between this city and Cronstadt. It is called the Versailles of Russia, and is truly magnificent for its gardens, fountains, statuary, grottoes, and palaces; but will not bear comparison with the beauties of the much renowned Versailles, in France.
When in Pisa, last winter, I made the acquaintance of a Russian family, who invited me strongly to visit them; and on my arrival I found they had preceded me only a few days, and received me with the greatest kindness. The gentleman being the colonel of the empress’s body-guard, and the annual fête of the regiment about taking place, I had an opportunity of assisting at the review of the regiment, which was one thousand strong, and one of the best dressed and best disciplined in the world; the platoons are of uniform height, and move as one man, and in line appear like living statues. The ceremonies of high mass were performed in the open air in front of one of the summer palaces, a few miles from the city, with all the pomp and form of the rites of the Greek church; the immense Asiatic gilded silk tent spread to protect from the sun’s rays of a beautiful day; the gorgeous services and robes of the priests, with long floating beards, and hair covering the shoulders; the burning of immense wax candles, and the fumes of incense; the whole imperial family en grande toilette; the review of the regiment, after mass, by the Emperor Nicholas and his sons, the grand dukes, on horseback—altogether it was one of the most imposing sights you could behold. After the review by theemperor, the empress and the beautiful new bride of the Grand Duke Constantine reviewed the troops from their magnificent carriage, drawn by four horses, with outriders in jockey style, passing over the beautiful lawn amid the spontaneous “vivas” of the whole regiment, who adore the empress, and are under her particular patronage. The officers of the regiment dined with the royal family in the palace, after which the soldiers partook of a sumptuous dinner, under a long line of tents near the barracks, which were visited by the empress and the new bride, who were saluted by a thousand voices.
The colonel of the regiment and his son conducted me through the tents of the soldiers, and when the word for action was given, it was amusing to see the dismemberment of the carcasses of entire roasted sheep, with gilded horns, whose heads were severed with as much facility as a Cossack would have shown in taking off the head of an enemy. By this same military influence I have had access to the winter palace and private apartments of the empress, which are rich beyond description, and the treasures of the palace in sceptres, crowns, imperial robes, with the decorations in diamonds, emeralds, rubies, pearls, &c., to the value of many millions, all of which was at this time inaccessible to a stranger. I have seen almost all the monarchs of Europe, and I must say that the Emperor Nicholas is the finest looking personage among them all.
Being about six feet in height, with fine complexion and more of the German than Russian caste, well proportioned, with a commanding yet dignified and graceful air, when he appears in full uniform on horseback, one says directly, “There goes the Emperor.” He is represented as being one of the most bold and daring of men, with the most indefatigable perseverance and zeal, and his works prove it. With his arbitrary rule of sixty millions of subjects, the largest portion of them uneducated, his task is a difficult one, and extorts praises from his friends, and curses from his enemies.
In matters of politics my lips are sealed, as spies are found in every direction, even among the domestics in hotels and private houses. The passing of the custom-house is most difficult; officers often engage you in conversation hoping to draw out your political views, but I must say that travelling in an official capacity, entitled to courtesy in all countries, my passport excludedme from visitation of luggage, and gave despatch, and the officers were exceedingly polite.
Within a fortress on the left bank of the Neva is a cathedral, rich in relics, which contains the tombs of all the emperors since Peter the Great; and in a cabinet in the Museum may be found all the relics which belonged to that great genius of the age in which he lived. In the suburbs of the city is a small wooden or log house where he resided, and which is now inclosed within another building to protect it from the ravage of time; there is also a boat there, made by his own hands. These to me were pleasing reminiscences.
Russia is extremely rich in mines of gold, copper, and precious stones. Her annual resources from Siberia, where the convicts are sent, are enormous, enough so to support her immense army, which is estimated at over one million men. In the galleries and vaults of the miners’ corps, is the finest collection of minerals, metals, precious stones, and marbles, I have yet seen in Europe. Here are found also all the models of industry, from the most simple machine to the entire apparatus for the working of the Siberian mines. The vaults under the building, which are most ingeniously constructed, and into which one descends by torches, are a fac simile of the arches and avenues in the gold, silver, and copper mines of Siberia, with the walls stained in different colors, and particles of ore representing all the different strata, so naturally indeed that one cannot but believe that he is really traversing the mines.
The Arsenal for the manufacture of cannon, and the immense collection of arms and trophies from the early ages, are well worth a visit, though they did not strike me as being remarkable.
St. Petersburg being a European city, one gets but an imperfect idea of the character of Russia, without going into the interior. Moscow is represented as being one of the most attractive cities of Europe, and of quite another style, being oriental in its character.
I shall visit that renowned city, and from thence cross the interior of Russia into Poland, striking the river Vistula at Warsaw. Through the influence of friends I have succeeded in getting a Russian and German passport from Count Nesselrode, purporting to be bearer of despatches, which gives me commandof horses at all the stations in preference to others. Agreeably to an imperial order the peasants are obliged to have at all times a certain number of horses reserved for couriers or bearers of despatches. You will hear from me again at Moscow.
Moscow, Russia, 1848.
I came to this city by extra post from St. Petersburg over the imperial macadamised road, which terminates here, a distance of about four hundred and sixty American miles, in forty-eight hours, including stoppages. Our change of horses ordinarily required only three minutes, and in consequence of some little delay on the road, the last ten miles to the gate of the city were made in forty minutes by three horses abreast, the lead with postillion on, coachman and conductor in front, and four inside passengers, the horses on the full gallop. I have never travelled faster in any country, by mail coach, than in Russia.
I wrote you from St. Petersburg, with some details of that brilliant capital, which is, however, modern and European; but whoever has visited it and not gone into the interior, has seen but little of Russia. There are several important towns and cities on the route between Petersburg and this city, Novogorod being one of the principal. The villages of the peasants, which are composed of log cabins mostly, and which, with the immense estates, belong to the nobles, are frequently seen. The serfs, usually clad in a long frock or surtout, made from sheepskin with the woolly side reversed, rough coarse boots or sandals, made from the bark of trees, an old small-brimmed conical hat, with long beard and mustache, and an ugly strap or girdle around the waist, present a rather uncouth appearance. They are conveyed with the land, yet sometimes separately, and are worth about three hundred silver rubles, or two hundred dollars each. The females are much less valuable, and can be bought for one quarter the sum. The usual custom is for them to employ one half their labor for the master, who must be noble, and the balance on their own account. The emperor is disposed to ameliorate their condition, and in time will effect it, but the power and influence of the nobles are so great he cannot directly.There are nobles in St. Petersburg and Moscow, who possess immense landed estates, with from eighty to one hundred and fifty thousand male peasants, and females in proportion, and you can well imagine the princely edifices and equipages these persons can maintain.
I was enchanted with the entrance to this magnificent city at mid-day. The plain where once encamped the defeated Army of Napoleon, in consequence of the Russians burning their own homes and palaces, was in part occupied by a grand review of a portion of the Russian army, the most powerful as a concentrated force, and the best disciplined troops in the world. In the distance, as far as the eye can reach, from some points, can be seen hundreds of temples, churches, towers, of all kinds of architecture, with domes and minarets gilded with gold, the buildings generally painted white or cream color, and the roofs of plated iron, painted green or brown, and presenting a remarkable appearance. I have never yet seen any city in Europe which bears any general resemblance to it, except Constantinople, which for its locality upon the Bosphorus and its general objects, presents itself more beautifully than any other port perhaps in the world.
In this ancient city of the Czars I find reminiscences of the African cities of Grand Cairo and Alexandria. It would be idle to attempt a description of the renowned Kremlin, which incloses within its walls a town of itself, comprising the palace of the Czars, the palace of the Patriarchs, the Senate, the Arsenal, the new palace of the emperor (not yet occupied), the Tower of John the Great, which incloses thirty bells of large and small sizes, from sixty tons weight down, and from which you have a magnificent view; the Cathedrals of the Assumption and the Archangel, which are extremely rich, and dazzle the eyes with gold and silver plating and ornaments. The Czars are crowned here, and here rest the ashes of the emperors prior to Peter the Great, since which time they are interred within the church of the Fortress, at St. Petersburg.
In one of the palaces are five immense saloons, which are entirely occupied for the treasures of the country, and contain riches beyond description. Here are seen the crowns of all the kingdoms that have become subservient to Russia, as well as all the sceptres, crowns, and regalia of the emperors, not includingthat of Nicholas, which is in the winter palace at St. Petersburg. To give a faint idea of the value of this collection of gold and silver, ornaments, horse armor, &c., I will mention one object which struck my attention particularly for its beauty—a saddle, presented by the Sultan to the Empress Catharine; the pommel is of gold and set with diamonds, rubies, pearls and emeralds, the bridle and straps are dazzling with brilliants; it is said to have cost two hundred thousand rubles or one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. The crown of Peter the Great is said to contain eight hundred and forty-seven diamonds. This collection struck me as being richer than any I had seen, richer even than that of the Sultan or of the crown jewels of England.
The great bell of Moscow, of which so much has been said, and which after its fall remained buried in the earth, is placed upon a circular wall, corresponding to its size, near the tower. Its weight is said to be two hundred tons, and in its composition is a large proportion of gold and silver, contributed by the inhabitants. It is twenty feet high, and twenty-two feet in diameter. A piece of about six feet was broken from it by its fall.
Yesterday I went to Sparrow Hill, some five miles from the Kremlin, to see the convicts examined by the physician before their departure for Siberia. After being presented to the General of Police, the Royal Counsellor, and other officers present, Doctor Haas, who is very kind to the prisoners, and quite unwilling they should leave on a pilgrimage of four thousand and five hundred miles without being in health, or supplied with all that the government furnishes, drew them up in line to the number of about one hundred, men, women, and some children, and asked three questions, to which they answered in Russian. Are you in good health? Are you in want of anything? Are you satisfied to depart? To all of which they gave satisfactory answers, with few exceptions, which were inquired into. The largest proportion were going to the colonies for life; the worst subjects were branded on the forehead and both cheeks, and condemned to the Siberian mines. To-day I saw them take their departure on the Siberian road; prior to which they were conducted by the soldiery to the suburbs of the city, where, in a building adapted for the purpose of confinement, they received from their friendsand the charitable of both sexes, supplies of food, clothing, and considerable sums of money. Those who can read are supplied with books by benevolent societies. They were drawn up in line, having a light leather strap from the shoulders to support the chains on their ankles, and received the gifts of the benevolent as they passed them for the last time. I could not help but feel for the poor wretches, guilty as they may be, and followed in the train giving each a small piece of money; they perceived I was a stranger, and some of them, learning from my valet that I was an American, gave a hearty shout.
The weather is still mild and agreeable, much more so than at St. Petersburg, lying several degrees further south and east. It is now the 17th of September by Russian time, but with us the 29th, there being twelve days difference in style. Here the macadamised roads terminate, and those who wish to travel south and east must in most cases have private conveyances and post horses, which are to be found everywhere, but the living is horrible. In the country inns, which are detestable, scarcely anything eatable is to be found; white bread is a luxury. The peasants subsist mostly on black rye-bread and water. The article of tea, which is a favorite beverage of the Russians, may almost always be found, and of the best quality of Caravan, which comes across the country. It is amusing to go into the new park, a favorite drive and promenade in the suburbs of the city, and see a hundred tables belonging to as many girls or women, who furnish the boiling water from as many kettles, to those who come provided with the aromatic plant.
The cholera, which has been frightful the past summer, is now almost entirely subdued, and is wending its way westward. Notwithstanding that the streets are broad, and an infinity of gardens and promenades is scattered and extended on both sides of the Moscow river, with a circumference of twenty-five American miles, still the disease has been awful. With a population of three hundred and fifty thousand, there have been as many as twelve or fifteen hundred cases, and six hundred interments per day. On visiting the city hospital, a fine large structure, admirably adapted to ventilation and comfort, and well deserving a visit from a stranger, I saw only a few cases of the disease remaining.
The great Railroad in process of construction, has met withunforeseen difficulties in the grading, and as the contractors, in order to make the most of it, will procrastinate the work, it will not be completed in all probability short of five years. Our enterprising countrymen, Messrs. Eastwick and Harrison, whose establishment I visited, about six miles from St. Petersburg, and who have employed sixteen hundred men in their foundries and wood-work shops belonging to the government, had a contract for one hundred and sixty-two locomotives, and twenty-five hundred passenger and freight cars, and the emperor gave them four years for their completion. At the expiration of the second year the work was completed and the emperor was informed of the fact, which he could not credit; the answer was, “Will your majesty please visit the establishment?” which he did, and expressed himself in warm terms of satisfaction. Those gentlemen are now engaged in throwing an Iron Bridge across the Neva.
The Russian religion is Greek. It does not acknowledge the supremacy of the Pope, the emperor being at the head of the Church. There is more form visible than among the Latins, and more repetitions of the sign of the cross, and they prostrate themselves in the churches frequently. This is the birthday of one of the Russian saints, consequently one of their festivals, of which they have a great number in the course of the year. Last evening I attended the imposing service of the nuns in the dazzling chapel of the convent of Strachnoy, preceding the anniversary of the patron saint of to-day. The bleeding form of Christ, suspended on the cross, surrounded by burning lights, the reflection of a thousand candles on the gilded images, and the burning of incense, carried my mind back to the ceremonies of the Greek church at Jerusalem, during the Holy Week.
Leaving the interior of the Kremlin by the Gate of our Saviour, where all who pass, by an ancient custom, uncover the head, one passes on the opposite side of the square into the bazaars, which are worth a visit, and where, it is said, there are ten thousand shops, of every branch of industry.
I found here a well-ordered hotel, kept by an Englishman, where I am quite at home, although the only traveller in the house. The landlady tells me I am the only American who has visited them this year, in consequence of the cholera and the revolutions in Europe, with the difficulty of procuring passports.
In Russia, all strangers are obliged to publish for ten days in the public journals, their intention to leave the country; which publication, with the permission of sojourn, is quite a tax. I have, however, escaped all that, and shall depart soon for Warsaw.