Berlin, Prussia,July 30, 1841.
I arrived in this city the day following my last letter from Wittemberg. Our approach to the capital of Prussia was through a dreary plain of sand, destitute of either beauty or fertility, and differing widely from the rich agricultural country through which I had been travelling. It is surprising that the foundation of a city should have been laid in so uninteresting a spot, and still more surprising that it should have grown to be the capital of a great kingdom.
Frederic the Great, ambitious to have a capital in proportion to his extended dominions, inclosed a vast space with walls, andordered it to be filled with houses; the consequence is that the streets are very broad, and regularly laid out. One street, called Friedrichstrasse, is two miles long, and has not a foot of descent from one end to the other. Berlin has been termed a city built for effect, all that is exceedingly beautiful being concentrated in one focus. The palaces, museum, arsenal, opera-houses, some of the finest churches, and other magnificent buildings, are quite contiguous. The street on which they stand is at least two hundred feet wide, with four rows of linden trees running the entire length of it. The central grand promenade for pedestrians has rows of trees on each side, then comes the equestrian road on the right and left, with one row of trees on each side, after which are the carriage roads and side walks, on both sides of this great avenue. The river Spree, a small stream which runs through the city, communicates with the Elbe, and by means of canals with the Oder, the Baltic, and the German Sea, and is navigated by boats.
The population of Berlin is three hundred thousand. Owing to the scarcity of stone the city is mostly built of brick, stuccoed and painted, or colored in a variety of ways, which gives it a light and beautiful appearance. Notwithstanding all its disadvantages of situation Berlin is one of the most splendid cities in Europe. Few can show so much architectural splendor as is seen in the colossal palace, the beautiful colonnade of the new museum, and many other buildings. The Brandenburg Gate, one of the principal ornaments of the city, is probably the most splendid portal in Europe, built after the model of the Propylæum at Athens, but larger. The Car of Victory on the top, drawn by three horses, with the goddess in a standing position, was taken to Paris by Napoleon, but the Prussians recovered it after the battle of Waterloo.
The royal palace is of vast size, and gorgeously furnished. One apartment, which is very splendid, and called the Knights’ Hall, has a throne and sideboard covered with massive old plate of gold and silver, large collections of paintings, one large chandelier of solid crystal, the ball suspended from the bottom of which cost twenty-four thousand dollars, and is larger than the crown of my hat. In the attic story of the palace is the Cabinet of Art, occupying several rooms. Among the most prominent objects of the large collection are Japanese and Australianweapons, Chinese collections, cloaks of feathers from the Sandwich Islands, works of art in ivory and gold, vast collections of jewels, a model of a windmill made by Peter the Great with his own hands while working as a ship carpenter in Holland, the robes of the Order of the Garter, given by George IV., and those of the Order of the Holy Ghost, given by Louis XVIII., to the late Prussian king. Some of the relics are entirely national. The bullet that wounded Frederic the Great in the battle of Rossbach in 1760; a wax figure, said to resemble him, as a cast was taken after his death; he is clothed in the same rusty and tarnished uniform he wore on the day of his death; the scabbard of his sword is mended with sealing-wax by his own hand; his books, flute, and cane lay before him on the table, also his pocket-handkerchief, which is ragged and patched, and which he used to the last.
Frederic the Great was certainly a singular character. Dr. Moore says his whole wardrobe consisted of two blue coats faced with red, the lining of one a little torn; two yellow waistcoats, considerably soiled with snuff, and three pairs of yellow breeches. Here is also a glass case containing the stars, orders, and decorations presented to Napoleon by the different sovereigns of Europe, except England. They were taken by the Prussians after the battle of Waterloo, in his carriage, from which he escaped so narrowly that he left his cap behind him, which is also preserved here.
The new museum is liberally thrown open to the public. It contains a very extensive picture gallery; some of the paintings are good originals, but most of them are copies, and in this branch of the arts Berlin bears no comparison to the Italian cities. There are also sculpture galleries, galleries of antiquities, collections of vases, bronzes, &c. The vases amount to one thousand six hundred in number. The ornithological collection in the University is one of the richest and most extensive in Europe, comprising all classes of birds from every quarter of the globe, the collections of Baron von Humboldt and others. The Egyptian museum ranks very high, and is said to be the most curious in Europe. Among the figures are those of various Egyptian deities, with the symbols belonging to each, and worn on the image. Among the mummies are not only those of human beings, but of the animals worshipped by the Egyptians,such as cats, young crocodiles, frogs, and lizards, all embalmed and wrapped in fine cloths. The most interesting object is the contents of the tomb of an Egyptian High Priest, discovered and opened in the Necropolis of Thebes. The body was inclosed in a triple coffin, the work of which is most intricate and extraordinary. All the specimens shown here of the produce of different trades are calculated to give a good idea of the extent of civilization and progress of the arts three thousand years ago in that country.
The Arsenal here is well worthy of a visit, as specimens of the arms and accoutrements used in all parts of Europe are seen in great abundance. Fire-arms used from the first invention of gunpowder to the present time; two leather cannons used by the great Gustavus in the Thirty Years’ War, are shown; many ancient weapons and suits of armor; and against the walls hang upwards of one thousand standards taken during the campaigns that overthrew Napoleon. About five miles from the city is Charlottenburg, a small village on the Spree, made mostly of villas, for the summer residence of the rich, and taverns to accommodate others who resort there from Berlin.
At Charlottenburg is a palace built by Frederic the Great, the grounds about which are exceedingly beautiful, and open to the public, being finely laid out and constantly thronged. Arms of the Spree run through them, and the waters abound with carp as large as shad, which come up to the surface on the ringing of a bell, and are so tame that any one may feed them. The interior of the palace, which may be seen by feeing the Castellan, as he is called, is very interesting, and gorgeous in silver and gold decorations, Gobelin and Prussian tapestry, statuary and paintings. The length of the entire building, furnished complete, is six hundred feet. We were shown the room that Napoleon occupied during his stay here. It had been previously occupied by the queen, but she never would stay there afterwards, but took another apartment. One of the most attractive objects is the beautiful statue of Queen Louisa, said to have been one of the most beautiful and amiable princesses of her day. She is buried within a small Doric temple, at the extremity of a shady walk, in a retired part of the garden. The work is by Rauch, of Berlin, and is not surpassed by any modern work of art. The figure of the queen reposes on asarcophagus of beautiful white marble, and as Russell describes it, “it is a form and face of the most exquisite beauty, but at the same time a most perfect resemblance.” The expression is not that of cold death, but of undisturbed repose, the hands being modestly folded on the breast, and the attitude easy, graceful, and natural. Only the countenance and part of the neck are bare, the rest of the figure is shrouded in drapery beautifully wrought. There is no inscription, or catalogue of titles, but simply the Prussian eagle at the head and foot of the sarcophagus, with four lions at the corners to support it.
Frankfort-on-the-Maine,Aug. 6, 1841.
On leaving Berlin our party proceeded to Potsdam, denominated the Prussian Versailles, lying on the bank of the river Havel, about twenty miles from Berlin. It may be called a town of palaces, not only from the four royal residences in and about it, but because the private residences are copied from celebrated edifices. It has a population of thirty-three thousand, including a large garrison. The principal objects that attract travellers are the grounds and extensive palaces; also, Peacock Island, in German, “Pfauen Insel.” This island was the late king’s hobby, and he made it an enchanting spot. The distance of four or five miles from Potsdam is soon accomplished, where the island is reached by a boat. It is beautifully situated in the centre of a lake, and is about three miles in circumference, and what was a wilderness of sand and fir trees, is now converted into the most delightful pleasure grounds, adorned with rare plants, shrubbery, and groves of trees of all varieties. Here is every variety of building which enlivens English or French gardens; fancy Gothic buildings, pavilions, menageries, and animals of all kinds, from the noble lion to the innocent lama, the deer and the elk, running at large. A great variety of birds, from the vulture, eagle, and ostrich, to the owl and parrot, may be seen in their different habitations. The king was engaged twenty years in bringing it to perfection, and it was his favorite retreat during summer. The mounted frigate, presented by William IV. of England to the king, is stationed here in thelake, and its proportions suit well the scenery by which it is surrounded.
We visited Sans Souci, the residence of the king, beautifully situated on the top of a flight of steps like terraces. The terraces are fronted with glass, beneath which grow vines, olives, and orange trees. Frederic the Great, who took great pride in his grounds as well as in his faithful dogs and horses, had a favorite spot of resort at the extremity of the terrace, and just before his death was brought out to bask in the sun. He desired to be buried in this spot, with his favorite animals, but this request was not granted, although the graves of his favorites were shown to us. We saw the remains of this great man in the garrison church, beneath the pulpit, in a plain metal sarcophagus above ground. His sword, which originally lay upon it, was taken by Napoleon; but in place of that there hung on each side the pulpit the standards taken by the Prussian armies from Napoleon.
The new palace, about two miles from Potsdam, was built at enormous cost by Frederic the Great at the end of the Seven Years’ War, by way of bravado, to show that his funds were not exhausted. It contains two hundred apartments. One large room is floored with marble and entirely lined with shells and minerals of all kinds—a very peculiar taste. As usual with these stately palaces, a vast amount of money was lavished in marble, gold and silver, gilding, &c.
On leaving Potsdam we took extra post to Magdeburgh, a distance of seventy miles. It is situated on the Elbe, with a population of fifty-two thousand. It has a fortress of the first class, and owing to its vast extent would require from fifty to seventy-five thousand men. The citadel on the island serves as a state prison. Gen. Lafayette was confined in it. The famous Baron Trenck was also confined in one of the prisons here. In 1552 Magdeburgh was besieged and taken by Maurice, king of Saxony. During the Thirty Years’ War it resisted the army of Wallenstein seven months, but was afterwards taken by the ferocious Tilly, who murdered thirty thousand inhabitants without distinction of sex, and left only one hundred and thirty-nine houses standing. In his despatch he says, “never was victory so complete since the destruction of Jerusalem and Troy.”
The cathedral, one of the noblest Gothic buildings in Germany,built in 1211, and recently repaired by the Prussian government at a cost ofthree hundred thousand dollars, was saved by one Bake, a schoolmate of Tilly. It contains many curiosities of art. At this city we regretted parting with one of our travelling companions, who took a steamer for Hamburgh, to go from thence to London or Amsterdam. My present American companion and myself next proceeded to Cassel, the capital of the Electorate of Hesse-Cassel, one hundred and forty miles from Magdeburgh. In passing through this rich agricultural country I observed, in addition to all the products of our northern country, vast quantities of poppies for the manufacture of oil, and large fields of beets to be made into sugar.
Fences in the interior of this country are unknown. The same may be said of most parts of Austria and Prussia. The farmers cultivate large tracts of land, but live in villages. All the varieties of the products are seen from the road in passing, as the width or front of each growing crop is ordinarily quite narrow on the road, and so arranged in most instances as to extend back in strips as far as the eye can reach.
Cassel, for a town with a population of thirty thousand, contains much to attract the attention of a traveller for a few days. In the Frederic Platz, a very large square, is placed a statue of the Elector Frederic, who was one of the number that elected the Emperor of Germany in former times. To that prince Cassel owes its embellishments and extravagant works. He disgraced himself and his people by trafficking in the lives of his subjects, when he hired them out to the King of Great Britain to fight his battle in America. It is said also that five thousand Hessian troops were hired in England, with the consent of Parliament, to fight against the Pretender in Scotland.
Some of the Hessians are still living who went to America in our revolution. I have seen two of the old veterans passing along the road, with ancient chapeaux that reminded me of prints I had seen many years since. Among the extravagances of the Elector, was the construction of the cascade of Carlsburgh, about three miles from the town, in the rear of the palace and grounds, and on the top of a high hill. You ascend a flight of nine hundred and two steps from the base to the top of the hill. A carriage road leads by the side of this gigantic staircase, in zigzags, to the summit. To the left of the steps, ascending, areflat stones laid one above another, very like a huge stairs, but with a greater acclivity, from the top of which the water is permitted to fall whenever it is desired, forming a beautiful cascade. The summit is surmounted by an octagon temple, called the Temple of the Winds, on which is raised an obelisk, serving as a pedestal for a colossal Hercules, thirty-one feet high, of beaten copper. It is possible to get up into the figure, and eight persons can stand in the hollow of the club, and out of a little window is one of the most extended views imaginable. The aquatic staircase, octagon temple and statue, altogether, employed two thousand men twenty-four years. When finished, the expenses were found to be so enormous that the accounts were burned to destroy all record of them.
Attached to the palace is a theatre, which was built by Joseph Bonaparte, in which he himself used to act. The grounds and walks are very beautiful, and once a week the principal fountain plays. It is the highest in Europe, and throws up a jet of water two hundred feet perpendicular, and twelve inches in diameter. It is supplied from reservoirs three hundred feet higher up the hill. Here are also artificial waterfalls, bridges, aqueducts, &c., finished at great cost.
From Cassel to Frankfort we travelled by Lohnkutch, which is a private conveyance, making the distance, one hundred and six miles, in two days, stopping to dine and lodge. We had also an opportunity to examine any remarkable church, manufacturing establishment, or other curiosity that might be attractive. Through Austria, Hungary, Saxony, and Prussia, we had all the varieties of travelling conveyances, known by such titles as Eilwagen, Schnellpost, Stellwagen, Bauernpost, Eisenbahnen, Railroad, Extra post, Zugkutcher, &c.
On the route from Cassel to Frankfort, we stopped over night at the town of Marburg. Its only object of curiosity is the church of St. Elizabeth, a beautiful specimen of the early Gothic pointed style of architecture, and in most perfect preservation, begun in the year 1231, and completed in forty-eight years. In one part of the church is the richly ornamented Gothic chapel dedicated to St. Elizabeth, the Landgravine of Hesse, who was canonized for the sanctity of her life in 1231. The carved tablet represents the saint lying on her coffin, surrounded by cripples and sick persons, the objects of her bountyHer soul is seen hovering above, on its way to Heaven, whence Christ extends his hands to receive her. The stone steps around it are worn hollow by the knees of pilgrims, who have resorted here for ages. There is now a partition through the church, for the accommodation of Catholics and Lutherans, who will never meet together.
In some parts of Bavaria and Austria, the pilgrimages are still kept up. Thousands and tens of thousands every year make a journey to the shrine of some favorite saint, to kiss some precious relic, or worship, in all but pagan idolatry, before some miracle-working picture or statue of the Virgin. At one place I saw as many as a thousand men, women, and girls, who were setting out on a journey to Maria Zella, a celebrated pilgrimage place in the Styrian Alps. They entered the cathedral from which they started, in procession, kissed the cross, made their prayers, and then marched forth on their pious tour on foot, many with scanty clothing to protect them from the storms, and with miserable supplies of food, carried in sacks or baskets, to sustain them on their fatiguing march. But such are the severe burdens that superstition, ignorance, and bigotry impose upon their wretched subjects.
Cologne, Prussia,Aug. 16, 1841.
Frankfort, from which I wrote last, is one of the free towns of Europe, being governed by a senate of its own; but it is considerably influenced by Austria and Prussia. Its territory is limited, not exceeding ten square miles, and the city and environs contain a population of fifty-two thousand—five thousand of whom are Jews. It is quite a lively city, the walls of which were levelled many years since and planted with trees, which now afford a delightful shade and promenade, being interspersed with a variety of plants and flowers. The desire for shade and fine promenades is an admirable feature in the European character, and in almost all cities I have yet visited on the Continent, I find the taste for agreeable and shady public walks to be prevalent; and I regret that their utility is so little considered in our own beautiful country, especially as theyare greatly conducive to health, as well as comfort and pleasure.
Frankfort is the seat of the German diet, and the deliberations of the Confederation of the German States are held there. It is the residence of many foreign ambassadors and wealthy merchants, and from the extent of its monied transactions, may be called the city of bankers; the most prominent of them is Baron Rothschild, who lives in princely style, having a magnificent villa and pleasure grounds in the suburbs of the city. Frankfort was the cradle of the Rothschild family; the house in which they were born is in the Judenstrasse, or Jews’ street, which is narrow, with gaunt old buildings and gable ends to the street. The houses never having been cleaned or painted, the dust and smoke of centuries are upon them. I was directed to the house, which the mother of the Rothschilds still occupies, and which, since it is the old homestead of the family, narrow and confined as it is, she refuses to leave for the palace of her son, not far distant.
The condition of the Jews here is much ameliorated. Formerly, the part of the city they occupy was closed by gates at an early hour; and another tyrannical law restricted the number of marriages among them to thirteen yearly. Both of those oppressions are now removed.
There are many objects of interest to occupy the attention at Frankfort. The banker to whom my letter was addressed, had a gallery of works of art. Among the sculpture, a piece representing Ariadne is the most prominent, and considered the lion of Frankfort; it is the figure of a female resting gracefully on the back of a tiger, beautifully executed, of pure Carrara marble. The gallery is liberally thrown open to the public. Before leaving the city, I thought it would not be unprofitable or uninteresting to visit the new cemetery, and take a melancholy but impressive walk among the abodes of the dead, as I had done while at Leipsig and some other German cities, as the cemeteries are places of public resort at all hours, and the gates always stand open during the day. One of the peculiarities of the German character is their veneration for the abodes of the dead. The grounds are beautifully and tastefully laid out, with walks adorned with shade trees and every variety of flowers. At one end of the inclosure is a long and beautiful arcade, under whichrepose, beneath pompous monuments, the rich and noble. Other parts of the ground are thickly studded with crosses, gravestones, and monuments, among which may be seen groups of young and old, entwining wreaths of flowers and evergreens around the monuments of those they loved, or perhaps placing a basin of holy water, or arranging a little border of flowers, by the side of some new-made grave. I saw many new graves strewed over with strips of lace, with tassels of gold and silver attached, on many of which the name and age of the deceased were imprinted.
A police regulation here requires that all bodies for interment shall be placed in the dead-house for a certain length of time, to guard against accidents by burial in cases of suspended animation. The building contains ten rooms for the bodies, and a room in the centre for a watchman; also a room provided with beds, medicines, and all other necessary articles, in case of the reviving of a subject. The fingers of the prostrate corpses are placed in the loops of a string attached to an alarm clock; and on the slightest motion or pulsation of the body, it gives the alarm to the watchman, who immediately summons assistance. But I will dwell no longer in the places of the dead, but return to the ways of the living.
On leaving Frankfort I visited Wiesbaden, which is the capital of the Duchy of Nassau, and has a population of ten thousand. Thousands resort thither for health and pleasure, and the efficacy of its baths; it being favorably situated, and connected with Mayence on the Rhine, and Frankfort, by railroad, it is more frequented than any of the German watering-places. My stay at this place of bustle and high life was short, but to give an idea of it, I will state that on our arrival at the junction of the railroad, we pursued our way to the Kursaal, the prominent hotel of the town, through a long line of beautiful sycamore trees. Having arrived at the usual dinner hour (one o’clock), we found a magnificent saloon, with three hundred guests at table, and a band of music playing in the same room. As there were no vacancies, we ordered dinner at a later hour, and in the meantime visited the springs, and strolled through the beautiful grounds by the side of a lake, on which white swans were seen gliding gracefully over the surface; the banks were lined with dahlias and other flowers. One spring has the appearance of aboiling cauldron, with a temperature of one hundred and fifty-six degrees Fahrenheit. Its waters are used for drinking, and taste very much like weak chicken broth. It supplies many baths, and the quantity that runs to waste is very considerable. In addition to this principal one, there are thirteen other springs.
On returning from our interesting walk, we saw many groups descending the hill on donkeys, which are always ready to convey visitors to the heights about Wiesbaden, to enjoy the fine view up and down the Rhine. To my surprise, on returning to the hotel, I found the grand saloon converted to a use which is not tolerated publicly at any of the Austrian and Prussian watering-places that I have yet visited. Here they have a special privilege from the government to gamble in public. Among the many hundreds of visitors, some were occupied in promenading, or in sipping coffee and ices under the shade of the trees; others were engaged in play at the different games, and among them were many well dressed ladies taking part with all the coolness and gravity possible. Such are the customs, and such is life, among the gentry who collect here. The grand saloon of the hotel I found to be occupied regularly for four distinct purposes; that of a dining, a ball, an assembly, and a gambling room.
I next visited Mayence on the Rhine, a town with a population of thirty-one thousand. It is strongly garrisoned with Austrian and Prussian troops, being the chief fortress of the German confederation. The troops stationed here vary from eight thousand to sixteen thousand. Every town or city has something peculiar, or some attractive sights command the attention of the visitor; but there are few remarkable things about Mayence. Its cathedral, which was built in the tenth century, is noted for its antiquity. Europe is indebted to Mayence for two things, which have had the greatest influence in effecting human improvement—free trade and the printing-press. The art of printing was first known in Mayence, and it was the birthplace of John Gutenberg, one of the associates of the celebrated Faust in the invention and early promotion of the art. The town is connected with the opposite side of the river by a bridge of boats one thousand six hundred and sixty-six feet long.
At Mayence I took the steamer for Coblentz, and visited Ehrenbreitstein, the Gibraltar of the Rhine, an immense fortificationon the opposite side, about eight hundred feet high, on a rock with steep slopes. It has cost the Prussian government four millions of dollars. Capable of holding fourteen thousand men, the magazines are large enough to contain provisions for eight thousand men ten years. The view from the heights is splendid, the banks of the “Blue Moselle,” with the bridge of boats, and other interesting sights, being directly opposite.
But the scenery along the Rhine, so celebrated throughout Europe, and so worthy of admiration, no pen can justly describe. It is of such a varied, delightful, and interesting character that it is impossible to convey an adequate idea of its beauties. No river in the world combines so many picturesque and magnificent views with so many historical associations. Its variety of wild and precipitous rocks, thick and gloomy forests, ruined castles, strongholds of the robber knights of former times, ruins of all descriptions, monuments, fortresses frowning from the lofty summits of the rocky elevations, with fertile plains, wide-spreading vineyards, towns and villages almost line the banks between Mayence and Coblentz. But this is the most interesting part of the river.
The vine is very extensively cultivated along the Rhine, producing some of the most celebrated wines. In some places the vineyards are nothing more than a succession of terraces, extending from five hundred to one thousand feet high, up the face of a hill, and frequently comprising from fifteen to twenty, each supported by a front wall from five to eight feet high.
Amsterdam, Holland,Aug. 24, 1841.
In my last from Cologne I promised to say something descriptive of its attractions, and its being termed the Rome of the north. For its origin and antiquity it is deserving of notice; besides, it is a commercial city, and the largest on the Rhine. History says Cologne was founded by the Romans, and that Agrippina, the mother of Nero, was born here. The cathedral, which was commenced in the year 1248, by the Elector and Archbishop of Cologne, has remained up to the present between a fragment and a ruin. If it had been finished, it would havebeen one of the prettiest Gothic edifices existing. The choir is the only part completed. It is one hundred and eighty feet high, and internally, from its height, size, and disposition of arches, chapels, and beautifully colored windows, strikes one with awe and astonishment. The entire length of the cathedral is four hundred feet, its breadth one hundred and sixty. The towers, which were only partly finished, were to have been five hundred feet high. In a small chapel is the celebrated shrine of the three kings of Cologne, or the Magi, who came from the East with rich gifts for the infant Jesus. The bones were obtained by the Emperor Barbarossa and presented to the Bishop of Cologne. By a payment to the sacristan we entered the inclosure, which is under double locks. The case, or coffin, in which they are deposited, is of solid silver gilt, about six feet long, three high, and three wide, and is curiously wrought—surrounded by small arcades, supported by silver pillars, and by figures of the apostles. The case is enriched with cameos, enamels, antique gems, diamonds, rubies, and other precious stones in abundance. The skulls of the three kings, inserted with their names, Gaspar, Melchior, and Balthazar, written in rubies, are exhibited to view through an opening in the shrine, crowned with diadems. The sacristan says the treasures are worth six million francs. There are many other relics of saints, church plate, &c., exhibited.
The church of St. Ursula and of the eleven thousand virgins is too singular to be forgotten. As the legend goes, St. Ursula, with eleven thousand virgins, set sail, in the second or third century, I think, from Britain for Armenia, and was carried by tempest up the Rhine, where the whole party were slaughtered by the barbarian Huns because they refused to break their vows of chastity. In the church, which is large and commodious, in cases beneath and around the altars, inclosed and built in the walls, are these hideous bones. They are displayed in gaunt array, in glass cases, about the choir and the altar. In the golden chamber, encased in silver, a select few of the number are deposited, while St. Ursula reposes in a coffin behind the altar. The walls in this church are decorated with bones, fashioned in all fantastic shapes. One of the stone vessels is here shown which Christ used at the marriage supper, and in which he converted water into wine.
On leaving Cologne, by steamer, we descended to Nymwegen, the first frontier fortress of Holland, which we entered without a very strict examination of luggage. On sallying forth the morning following my arrival, I was forcibly struck with the unusual cleanliness and neatness of the Dutch, particularly as the day previous I had left Cologne, which is not only celebrated for Eau de Cologne, but for its filth. We left Nymwegen for Utrecht by diligence, and it being Saturday, the general “schoonmaking,” or cleaning day, I had a fine opportunity of witnessing what may be termed an excess of cleanliness, in passing through several small villages before arriving at Utrecht. Almost every house presented a scene of the utmost activity. The brushing, scrubbing, and mopping are not confined to the inside of the house, the steps, and door-ways, but the windows, walls, and sidewalks must undergo a course of ablution. Scarcely a domestic is seen without a water-pail and broom, or a small engine pump for throwing water to wash the windows, and a traveller stands a small chance of avoiding a shower bath, if he walks carelessly along the sidewalks. The drawing-room is a sort of sanctum, and is said to be rarely entered oftener than once a week, and then only by the housewife and her maid, with list shoes, to avoid scratching the polished floors. After having finished washing and dusting, the door is closed, and windows fastened for another week. Sabots, or wooden shoes, are generally worn during the purification, and after the work is finished they must undergo a regular wash as well as the brooms and other articles used in cleaning.
One of the peculiarities of the Dutch towns is the little mirrors projecting in front of the windows of almost all the houses. Ordinarily they are two pieces of looking-glass framed at an angle of forty-five degrees from each other, the one reflecting up the street and the other down, whereby the Dutch ladies may sit ensconced behind the blinds or curtains, and see all that is passing in the street, and not expose themselves to the gaze of the public.
At Utrecht, a city with a population of forty-four thousand, we found sufficient to entertain us for a day. On ascending the steeple of the cathedral, three hundred and eighty-eight feet high, we obtained a view of the surrounding country, which is a perfect flat, watered by canals in different directions, andavenues of trees, all planted by the rule, with an occasional windmill and steeple in the distance, to break the monotony of a Dutch landscape. Half way up to the top we were introduced into a room where refreshments are furnished, and found the family of the sexton, who had lived there thirty years and reared a family. While resting we enjoyed the merry chime of thirty or forty bells in the steeple, which is repeated every hour.
On leaving Utrecht we took the national conveyance, the treckschuite, or canal boat, which does not differ very materially in size from our Erie canal boats, with the exception of having separate apartments for the accommodation of different classes of passengers. The towing horse is ridden by a lad, who is very dexterous, in passing bridges and other vessels, in disengaging the tow rope without impeding the progress of the boat. The canals in Holland run in all directions through the country and through the towns and cities, and are the great high-road for the transportation of goods and passengers. The consequence is, that in the vicinity of large towns and cities, on the principal canals, which are about sixty feet wide and six feet deep, are located many beautiful villas, country seats, and pleasure gardens.
On the entire route to this city, since I have entered Holland, either along the highway or along the canal, especially in the vicinity of populous cities, I have discovered the abodes of those who seemed to study cleanliness and comfort. In the suburbs of the cities you will find those country-seats where great wealth is expended. At the end of the gardens overlooking the canal, or main road, is always placed a small temple, pagoda, or snug, comfortable building, where you will see the men smoking their pipes and sipping their beer, or the ladies their tea and coffee, engaged in knitting, or criticising the passers-by. Perhaps there is no country in the world where flowers grow to such perfection as in Holland, and nowhere have I seen such an array of plants and flowers as these gardens contain. The roads for wagons and diligences run along the line of the canal, or upon the dykes which are thrown up to protect the influx of the sea. The soil is of such a nature that roads are constructed with difficulty, and at an expense of seven thousand dollars per mile, all of hard burned brick placed edgeways. In traversing the canals in many instances, you look down upon the “polders” (so called)on both sides, with the cattle grazing far below the surface of the water you are navigating. Those polders are frequently liable to inundation during the winter season. You observe hundreds of windmills employed in sawing timber, grinding wheat, and other occupations, and among the number, in passing along, you discover many pumping the water from low grounds, or polders, that lie below you, and throwing it into the canal. It may well be said that the Hollander has made the wind his slave, for not a puff of air is suffered to escape without turning a windmill.
Amsterdam is a large commercial city, with a population of over two hundred thousand, and is one of the most remarkable cities in Europe for its peculiar location, being intersected by various small canals, which divide it into ninety-five islands with two hundred and ninety bridges. Had I not seen Venice, which is still more remarkable, I should have considered it very extraordinary. The entire city, quays and sluices, are all founded on piles, which are driven through the upper stratum of mud and loose sand until they reach the firm sand below. The palace of the king is a large and imposing building of stone, standing upon thirteen thousand six hundred and ninety-five piles. The second day after my arrival a grand fête took place, and towards evening I strolled up the main street, crossing many bridges, to the suburbs of the city, passing through an immense crowd of persons, and among the number I should think there were all of ten thousand females, most of them without bonnets. I seldom attempt a description of costume, but I must here observe that the females in Holland are particularly distinguished for neatness and gracefulness of costume, as well as clearness of complexion. To see such an immense group, very many of whom were domestics, all in tastefully arranged caps and head-dresses, was a novel sight. Numbers have the back of the head encircled by a broad fillet of gold, shaped like the letter U, which confines the hair and terminates on each side of the temple with two long rosettes, also of gold. Over this is worn a cap, or veil, of finest lace, hanging down the neck, with a pair of enormous gold ear-rings. Among the group I discovered many orphan children, who have their particular dresses to distinguish them.
The people of Amsterdam are celebrated for their charitable institutions. One particular costume, for male and female, Iobserved, was red and black cloth, extending from the shoulders to the feet, which reminded me of the dress of a clown, red one side and black the other; and I could not but pity the wearers, especially young females, who were thus made so conspicuous in the eyes of strangers.
Rotterdam,August 30, 1841.
Well, at last I am in Rotterdam, and I assure you I was heartily glad to reach this city, as one may rest quietly for a few days without seeing extraordinary sights. Rotterdam is a fine commercial city, with a population of seventy-four thousand, and exceedingly novel and interesting to a stranger who has just arrived in the country; but to one who has made the tour of Holland it possesses none of those extraordinary sights which a traveller is in duty bound to see. The remark may appear strange that one becomes tired and exhausted with sights; but in a long line of travel, in visiting cities in rapid succession, where a sort of obligation is imposed upon every good traveller to see all that is remarkable, it becomes laborious.
During the time we tarried at Amsterdam, we made an excursion to Broeck, celebrated as the cleanest village in the world. It has a population of eight hundred persons. In making this excursion we passed through a part of the great ship canal, which is one hundred and twenty-five feet wide, twenty-one feet deep, and fifty miles long. Two ships can enter side by side. After leaving this we took a conveyance which runs by the side of a lateral canal, on which are seen men and women, harnessed like horses, trailing the canal boats to market. On arriving at this extraordinary village our carriage was left outside, as neither horse nor wheel is permitted within the precincts. Our valet leading the way, we proceeded, in pattens, through the various passages or lanes, which are paved with brick or little stones, the paths being composed of shells. I had formed an idea of the extraordinary neatness of the place from the accounts I had heard of it, but the fantastical arrangement and construction of the houses exceeded my expectation. The houses are mostly wood with tile roofs, painted and varnished, which glitter in thesun. The buildings are most scrupulously painted with different colors, many representing different temples, and all sorts of architecture. We were taken to the garden of the rich clergyman of the village, and the guide-book describes it as surpassing all the others in its absurdities, and in the miscellaneous nature of its contents, beating the “groves of Blarney” all to nothing. Here are pavilions, arbors, summer-houses, pagodas, temples, bridges, &c., the small canals running through the garden, and indeed through every part of the village. Most of the front doors are closed during the week until the housewife opens the door, takes down the shutters, dusts the china and the furniture, and arranges everything, then closes it for another week, unless in case of a marriage, a funeral, or christening. The residents are mostly retired merchants, landed proprietors, stockbrokers, or other persons who have made fortunes. In one part of the village are made many Dutch cheeses. We went into the apartments of the cows in one house, the animals being absent from home in the fields. The pavement was of Dutch tiles, the walls and partitions of boards, scrubbed as clean as a dining table. We were permitted to enter the front door of one of the sanctums after having placed our feet in list slippers to avoid soiling the floor, and it is said that the Emperor Alexander, on visiting Broeck, was compelled to comply with this usage!
Having finished our excursion, we next went to Saardam, a place with a population of nine thousand, and remarkable for its four hundred windmills, which are applied to all uses. Some of them are of immense size, with wings eighty feet in diameter, and have houses attached to them. One street of windmills is five miles in length. The next remarkable object for a stranger is the hut of Peter the Great, in which he lived while working as a ship-carpenter, in 1696. The building is of rough plank, and consists of two rooms; in one is a cupboard, used as his sleeping-place, above a loft entered by a ladder. The property was bought by the sister of the Emperor Alexander, and is now inclosed in a case of brick-work, with shutters to close in bad weather. Here you find registers filled with names, and the walls of the hut are so completely covered that it is almost impossible to register another name.
On quitting Amsterdam we took the railroad to Haarlem,which route is accomplished in thirty minutes. It has a population of twenty-four thousand, and its environs are very pretty. The main attraction here is the great organ, which is celebrated over the world. Its size is immense, filling up the whole end of the Cathedral; it has five thousand pipes, the largest fifteen inches in diameter; two of them are thirty-two feet, and eight sixteen feet long. Its power is wonderful when played on by the organist in private, with all the variety of mutations which it is capable of. The charge for a private performance is thirteen guilders, for one person or a party, equal to five dollars and fifty cents. An English gentleman had just employed the organist and finished when our party applied for his services. The imitation of the flute, fife, and piano, followed by the loud charge of the trumpet, was an admirable performance; after which came the tinkling of bells, which one could scarce believe came from the pipes, and then came “the storm,” grand and terrific beyond description, the mimic thunder roared frightfully, and the walls of the building fairly seemed to tremble. The great diapason produced a sound like the whizzing of the machinery of a cotton factory. All these efforts are to show the strength and power of the instrument. An ordinary performance is of the most rich and melodious character.
Our next city to visit on the route was Leyden, celebrated in the annals of Holland as having resisted the siege of the Spanish army in 1573–4 for four months, and displayed the most resolute patriotism. At a period of extreme exhaustion, when bread had not been seen for seven weeks, and pestilence had followed famine and carried off six thousand inhabitants, and when the people were subsisting on horses, dogs, cats, and other foul animals, then it was they came to the resolution to open the dykes and inundate their country to overwhelm the cruel enemy, sooner than submit. History records that the expedient had not an immediate effect, but as if Providence soon and directly interfered, the wind suddenly changed and brought in the sea to the walls of the city, drowning thousands of the Spaniards; and when that was accomplished, veered as suddenly about and carried most of the flood back again so as to enable them to repair the dykes. Among all the collections of Dutch paintings are some portraying the horrors of that dreadful siege.
Leyden has a population of thirty-five thousand, and differsbut little from other Dutch cities, being intersected by canals in every direction, most of them bordered by rows of trees; the suburbs are beautiful, with many pretty villas and flower gardens. There are several collections of Chinese and Japanese articles, as the Dutch carry on a great trade with the East. I cannot enumerate the objects of interest further in Leyden, as I must bear in mind the Hague, the next city which we visited, and which is the residence of the Court.
The population of the Hague is about fifty-five thousand. It is situated about three miles from the sea-shore, intersected by canals in every direction, the waters of which present less activity that those of any other city in Holland. We visited Scheveningen, a small fishing town near the sea shore, riding through an avenue of fine shade trees. The bathing establishments are much resorted to by the nobility and persons of distinction on the Continent, who take up their residence here during the summer. The “Dunes,” so called here, are immense banks of sand, thrown up by the wind, and forming a natural barrier against the encroachments of the sea. The sand being very light is scattered by the wind, but in order to preserve the ridges or embankments from injury they are secured by being planted with rushes, or matted over with straw and reeds. Here are also windmills which pump up the water from the ocean, which runs down the Hague, and displaces the stagnant water from the canals, forcing it into another canal which leads it to the river Meuse. The Hague possesses the finest picture gallery in Holland, and the Royal Cabinet is highly interesting and instructive. The Japanese collection is the largest in Europe. Among a thousand other relics I saw the armor of Admiral Von Tromp, bearing marks of several bullets. He was engaged in no less than thirty-two sea fights, conquered the English under Blake in 1652, and afterwards sailed through the British Channel with a broom at his masthead, signifying that he would sweep the ocean of all foes.
Since our arrival at the Hague we have made an excursion to Schiedam, famous for its fine gin, of which there are one hundred and seventy-two distilleries in that small town. Thirty thousand pigs are fed on the refuse grain. It is a neat, pretty village, surrounded by comfort and cheerfulness. Throughout Holland I find the people are more moral, cleanly, temperate,industrious, and strict in their observance of the Sabbath, than in any other part of the Continent that I have visited. It is a country of comfort and extortion—the latter because the taxes are high and the necessaries of life dear.
Milan, Italy,Nov. 7, 1841.
The mail post, the mode of conveyance from Paris to Strasburg, is the most rapid in France. The number of passengers is limited to three persons, with a stipulated allowance of baggage. The horses are changed frequently and with expedition, scarcely giving the passengers time for refreshment on the road. But on this route, where there is little of interest to be seen, it is far more agreeable than the Diligence. The distance is nearly three hundred miles, which were accomplished in thirty-six hours and a half.
Strasburg, the frontier fortress of France, is situated very near the banks of the Rhine, and contains a population of sixty thousand, and a garrison of six thousand men in time of peace. It is the strongest fortification in France. It has the appearance of a German city, and that language is much spoken, and altogether it appears quite unlike France. The principal curiosity here is the cathedral, one of the noblest Gothic edifices in Europe, and celebrated for its spire, which is the highest in the world: it is four hundred and seventy-four feet above the pavement. The cathedral was commenced in the eleventh century. It is the most remarkable piece of open airy stonework imaginable. It was not finished until the fifteenth century, over four hundred years after it was commenced. To ascend the steeple it is now necessary to apply to the magistrates of the city for permission, as several persons have fallen or thrown themselves off the top. There is no difficulty for one with firm nerves to make the ascent, but the stonework of the steeple is so completely open, and the pillars which support it so wide apart, and cut so thin, that they nearly resemble bars of iron or wood, so that at such a height one might imagine himself suspended in a cage over the city, and if the foot were to slip the body might easily drop through the open fretwork.At the same time the elaborate work, and the shapings of the angles and ornaments, are proofs of the skill of the architect and the excellent materials he had chosen. The interior of the building is rich, but what strikes the eye most is one window of painted glass, of a circumference of fifty feet diameter, and rising to the height of two hundred and fifty feet, at the west end of the nave.
After leaving Strasburg I took the railroad which connects that city with Basle in Switzerland, running through an interesting country, nearly one hundred miles. Railroad travel is rather a novelty for the French and Swiss, being quite a new enterprise with them.
From Basle I proceeded to Berne, a city with a population of twenty thousand, beautifully situated and much resorted to during the summer by strangers. The scenery of this part of Switzerland is not so grand and majestic as the mountain views, but the country is undulating and productive. The varied costumes of the peasantry in the different Swiss cantons (of which there are twenty-four comprising the Republic), strike the eye of the stranger as being singular and beautiful.
From Berne I took diligence for Friburg, which, in addition to its magnificent and lofty situation, is celebrated for its suspension iron bridges; the length of the two over which our diligence passed is nine hundred and three feet, their height one hundred and sixty-three feet above the river. It appears frightful in the extreme the first time you pass the bridge, but it is considered perfectly safe. The other bridge, over which I passed subsequently, while examining the work, is seven hundred feet long and two hundred and eighty-five feet above the valley over which it is suspended. During heavy gales they are said to vibrate considerably.
The route from Friburg to Vevay, situated upon the lake of Geneva, is very beautiful, passing through immense vineyards loaded with fruit, and the peasantry, male and female, are busily employed in gathering and pressing the juice of the grape; nothing can exceed the beauty of the snow-capped mountains in the distance, while the blue and limpid Lake of Geneva bathes the shore of Vevay. From Vevay I took the steamer on the lake, visiting Lausanne, a city of some importance, and beautifully situated on an eminence commanding extensive views ofthe country around. I next took the steamer and traversed the extent of the lake to Geneva, which is the principal and largest city in Switzerland. Here are generally to be found strangers from all quarters, good hotels, reading rooms, and all the comforts and necessaries of life for those who choose to make it a residence. It is the resort of many wealthy English. The situation upon the lake at the outlet—the beautiful and magnificent scenery—its public promenades—its interesting suburbs and adjacent country—altogether lend many charms to Geneva for a permanent residence.
About six miles from Geneva is the château and villa of Voltaire, to which most strangers pay a visit. Here are shown many relics—his garments, cane, books, correspondence, &c.; also the room in which he lodged, which contains his bed, furniture, pictures, &c. Among the latter I discovered a portrait of Dr. Franklin, who once paid Voltaire a visit.
On quitting Geneva for Milan, to pass over the Simplon, which traverses the Alps, ten thousand feet above the level of the sea, I was compelled to take the diligence, the only conveyance which left, just towards night, and on entering Savoy, in the middle of the night, was obliged to submit to the abominable practice of police authority, the examination of luggage and delivery of passport, and in the entire route to Milan had my baggage examined four times. After riding all night and the following day, passing through the most wild and romantic scenery imaginable, with occasional cascades from the mountains, we arrived at a little village called Brieg. In order to appropriate an entire day to the passage of the Simplon, travellers usually sleep at Brieg and set out with the dawn next morning. The journey across the mountain is about forty miles, and generally occupies about twelve hours. We started at three o’clock in the morning in the ascent. The weather, which in the valley was warm and agreeable, began to change sensibly; as we proceeded the cold increased; finally we found snow, and much to my surprise, at length were compelled to leave the diligence and take wooden sledges, upon which was lashed the luggage, while the passengers rode upon rudely constructed sledges with wooden runners. We soon found the cold intense, and the snow from two to four feet deep. Fortunately for me, when we arrived at the foot of the mountain, we were told that the mountainwas almost impassable; the passengers had been detained five days, the roads being blocked up, a thing almost unprecedented even on the Simplon in the month of October. We provided ourselves with the requisite comforts and clothing for the passage. This passage of the Alps, planned by Napoleon in 1801, was finished in 1805 by the governments of France and Italy. Its breadth is twenty feet; the number of the bridges thrown across the rocks is fifty, and the number of grottoes hewn through the solid rocks is six. There are placed several rude buildings of stone, at different intervals, for the shelter of the traveller when threatened by the avalanches, with the marks “Refuge” No. 1, 2, 3, 4, &c. On the summit of the pass stands the new hospice, a good establishment for the passengers, begun by Napoleon, but only recently completed. It is occupied by the hospitable monks of St. Bernard, who showed us their famous dogs for dragging benighted travellers out of the snow. At the point where vegetation ceases, and where the avalanche has swept everything before it, is a dreary tunnel about one hundred and fifty feet long, through which we passed, which is cut through the rock over which the avalanches tumble. After emerging you pass along the brink of a precipice of immense depth. We started early in order to avoid the avalanches which commence about mid-day. We were forced in some places to pass over beds of snow twenty feet deep, the avalanches having blocked up the road. A large number of the hardy pioneers of the mountain were employed with their shovels in clearing the way. At about threeP.M.we arrived over the side of the mountain at the little village of Simplon, where we were able to take wagons, as the snow was melting fast, and when we had got down in the valley, or gorge of the rocks, another grand scene presented itself. The snow melting rapidly formed cascades in every direction, which were coursing down the ragged and perpendicular rocks, sometimes exhibiting all the colors of the rainbow, and at others foaming in torrents. Altogether the passage of the Simplon, under the circumstances in which I crossed it, is one of the most wild, frightful, and yet grand and majestic scenes I have witnessed. In the early part of the evening we found ourselves at Domo d’Osola, where we lodged, and the next day went to Bavano, upon the Lago Maggiore, where we stopped to visit the beautiful and enchantingislands called Isola Bella and Isola Madre, which I will speak of in my next.
Trieste, Austria,Nov. 16, 1841.
In my last communication from Milan, I promised to speak of the charming lake called in Italian Lago Maggiore, and of the enchanting islands, Isola Madre and Isola Bella. The lake is about forty or fifty miles in length, and from four to six in breadth. Its shores are lined with forest trees, olives, and vineyards, and here and there are scattered villages and hamlets, some of which are remarkable for elegance of construction. The two islands above named contain palaces and gardens belonging to the family of San Carlo Boromeo. On visiting the Isola Madre, which is about one and a half miles from the shore, we were delighted on seeing, on the south side, four gardens, or rather terraces, rising one above the other, embellished with luxuriant flowers, shrubs, forest trees, all the tropical fruits, &c., in great abundance, and crowned with a palace. But we were still more gratified on visiting Isola Bella, about a mile distant, which is certainly the most remarkable work of the kind I ever saw—it being a small island, occupied entirely with gardens and the palace. It is said a great proportion of the earth was originally carried there. The southern exposure consists of eight terraces, rising one above the other, carpeted with flowers, oranges, lemons, and other fruits in profusion, and adorned with an immense number of statues. This great work is supported by stone arches, which, together with the basement or lower story of an immense palace, front a series of grottoes tastefully fitted up, and for a summer abode delightful. The palace in itself is magnificent, and loaded with all the valuables that wealth can bestow, in sculpture, paintings, &c. The king of Sardinia has passed some time at this agreeable spot. What is most remarkable is in the position of the island, for during the winter, while the mountains in the vicinity are covered with snow, here may be found all the tropical fruits and rare plants from all parts of the world.
After leaving Lago Maggiore, we proceeded by diligence toMilan, which is the capital of Lombardy, and the largest city in northern Italy, its population being one hundred and fifty thousand. There are many attractions in it calculated to detain a traveller, among the principal of which is the Duomo, or cathedral, which is the largest in Italy, excepting St. Peter’s at Rome. It is four hundred and forty-nine feet long, two hundred and seventy-five broad, and the height two hundred and thirty-six feet to the top of the cupola. It is divided into five parts by one hundred and sixty columns of marble, and paved with the same material. Under the cathedral is a sumptuously decorated chapel, which was open while I was there, it being an anniversary, and thousands during the day passed into the subterranean chapel to see the remains of San Carlo Boromeo, which are inclosed in a crystal sarcophagus, adorned with gold and silver gilt. His figure is encased with superb robes, while his crosier and mitre rest by his side. His countenance, with the exception of the nose, is pretty well preserved. The interior of the chapel is also covered with marble, and gold and silver gilding, extremely rich. In order to appreciate this immense Gothic edifice, it is necessary to mount to the top of the cathedral, four hundred and sixty-eight steps, where you can view the spires, turrets, and exterior decorations, in white marble.
The triumphal arch of Napoleon, at the termination of the grand Simplon road, is another great ornament to Milan. It is an immense work, and crowned with a car, bearing the figure of Victory, drawn by six colossal horses in bronze; there are also four other horses, of the same material, standing on the four corners.
During the time I remained at Milan I made an excursion to the lake of Como. At the village of Como I took a small steamer, which plies upon the lake, and had an opportunity of seeing the beautiful gardens, pleasure grounds, and orangeries which line the shores. Nothing can be more delightful to the lover of fine scenery than an excursion upon this lake.
While in Rome, last spring, I saw an original cast in plaster, ordered by Napoleon, from the great sculptor Canova. It represented the triumph of Alexander the Great, and was said to have been purchased at a sum equal to fourteen thousand dollars, and was in a village upon the lake of Como. I landed at the villa Sonimorira, and visited the grounds and interior of thisvilla, or more properly speaking, palace, where I had an opportunity of seeing this admirable piece of sculpture in bas-relief, in white marble. It is attached to the wall. I made another excursion to Monza, about twelve miles from Milan, which contains a royal residence, well worth visiting; also a cathedral, where is deposited the crown of the Lombard kings, called the “Iron Crown,” because it is lined with an iron hoop, but of small size, and, as the story goes, is composed of the nails with which our Saviour was fastened to the cross. The outside of the crown of gold is studded with precious stones. Charlemagne was crowned king of Lombardy with it in the cathedral where it is deposited. The sacristy also abounds with ornaments of gold, silver, diamonds, and other precious stones, belonging to the church. There was an unusual degree of form and ceremony before we could get to see this celebrated relic. After we had obtained permission from the highest functionary, I was not a little surprised to find that this relic was placed in the wall behind the altar, making it necessary to ascend by ladder to unlock the double doors, one of which was a part of the front of the altar; after which many candles were lighted and two priests put on their robes and made a short service, when an enormous cross of gold was produced, in the centre of which was inclosed in crystal the crown already described; for all of which our party paid five francs. I was rather credulous in the belief of the story that the interior of the crown was made from the nails of the cross, as I have already seen, in different parts of Europe, more relics of the kind than were necessary for the crucifixion of our Saviour.
After I left Milan I came to Verona, on the route to Venice, where I tarried one day. Verona has its objects of curiosity, but not sufficient to detain one who has seen the cities of southern Italy. The ancient amphitheatre here is one of the most remarkable; it is more perfect than any other in Italy. It accommodated twenty-three thousand four hundred and eighty-four persons seated, according to report, and is composed of large blocks of marble without cement. It is of an oval form, four hundred and sixty-seven feet long and three hundred and sixty-seven feet wide. The arena is two hundred and twenty-five feet in length, and one hundred and thirty-three feet wide. There are forty-five rows of seats encircling the arena. The exteriorwall is destroyed, but the other parts of this immense work of antiquity are quite perfect. In the suburbs of Verona, in a building near the former cemetery of a Franciscan convent, is a sarcophagus called the tomb of Juliet, and made of Verona marble, with a place for her head, a socket for a candle, and two holes for the admission of air. This sarcophagus is nothing in itself, but associated with Shakespeare, and the history of Romeo and Juliet, it is full of interest.
On arriving at Venice, I visited the palace of the Doges, the Basilica of San Marco, the Bridge of Sighs, the Giant Stairs, the Rialto, and several other parts of the city. Venice is about seven miles in circumference, with a population of one hundred thousand. It is situated in the midst of shallows called Lagunes, and stands mostly on piles. It is entered in all directions by canals, which amount to some hundreds, and bridges of stone without number. The streets are narrow, frequently not exceeding six feet in width, but having shops on each side, and then again many passages not exceeding four feet wide. There are, however, many squares, but they are not generally large. The Place of St. Mark, upon which is situated many of the principal buildings, is magnificent, and presents a lively scene. The only conveyance is in gondolas, which traverse all parts of the city, and are a necessary appendage to every family. One is induced to pronounce it a singular and beautiful city, because no other is like it.
It is surprising that the city should be supplied with all the necessaries, comforts, and luxuries of life without any apparent difficulty. Here are to be found thousands of persons who never saw the bubbling of a fountain or the growth of the vegetables upon which they subsist, who know not the use of a horse, and never saw such an animal, who perhaps have never seen a tree.
On approaching Venice in a gondola it has the appearance of a city submerged, while the steeples in the distance resemble the masts of vessels. The silence is profound, and at first it appears dull. The canals in general being the streets, the only noise to disturb the tranquillity is that made by the oars and the cries of the gondoliers. On leaving Venice I took the steamer for Trieste, the passage being accomplished across the head of the Adriatic in from ten to twelve hours ordinarily. As I departto-morrow for Greece you may not expect to hear from me again until after my arrival at Patras, or the Ionian Islands.