From Via Flaminia, near Ponte Molle.Page 170.
From Via Flaminia, near Ponte Molle.Page 170.
From Via Flaminia, near Ponte Molle.Page 170.
Like those other pilgrims, we were much discouraged because of the way. But at last, wheeling by pink and whitetrattorie, whosewalls were covered with illustrated bills of fare, and coming to an open place where street-cars were coming and going, the Ponte Molle, over a now yellow Tiber, lay before us, and we were under the shadow of the dome we from afar had watched for many hours. Over the bridge we went with cars and carts, between houses and gardens and wine-shops, where there was a discord of many hurdy-gurdies, to the Porta del Popolo, and so into Rome.
Carabinieriwere lounging about the gate, and carriages were driving to the Pincian; but we rode on and up the street on the right of the piazza. When we had gone a short distance we asked a man at a corner our way to the Piazza di Spagna. We should have taken the street to our left, he said, but now we could reach it by crossing the Corso diagonally. As we did so we heard a loudsst,sstbehind us, and we saw agendarmerunning up the street; but we went on. When we wheeled into the Piazza di Spagna, however, a second, almost breathless, ran out in front of us, and cried,Aspetti!("Wait!") But still we rode.Aspetti!he cried again, and half drew his sword.In a minute we were surrounded. Models came flying from the Spanish steps; an old countryman carrying a fish affectionately under his arm, bootblacks, clerks from the near shops, young Roman swells,—all these and many more gathered about us.
"Aspetti!" thegendarmestill cried.
"Perchè?" we asked.
And then his fellow-officer, whom we had seen on the Corso, came up. "Get down!" he said, in fierce tones of command.
"Perchè?" we asked again.
"Per Christo!" was his only answer.
The crowd laughed with glee. Hackmen shouted their applause. It was ignominious, perhaps, but the wisest policy, to get down and walk to our hotel.
"It pities me much for this poorman: it will certainly go ill withhim at the last."
"It pities me much for this poorman: it will certainly go ill withhim at the last."
What pilgrim of old times thought his pilgrimage really over until he gave either out of his plenty or nothing in alms? Two months later we too gave our mite, not to the church or to the poor, but to the Government; for we were then summoned before a police magistrate and fined ten francs for "furiousriding on the Corso, and refusing to descend when ordered."
And so our pilgrimage ended.
VETTURINOversusTRICYCLE.
ByJOSEPH PENNELL.
From "Outing."
Who has not journeyed through a country with his favorite author long before he makes the actual trip himself? and who, when he comes to see with his own eyes that at which he has hitherto looked through some one else's, does not find himself his best guide? Long before I came to Italy I had travelled along its highways and by-ways with many authors, more especially with Hawthorne in his "Italian Note-Book," and Mr. Howells in his "Italian Journeys" and "Venetian Life." When it was finally my good fortune to make the journey myself, I was at first lucky enough to have for a companion, not his books, but Mr. Howells himself; and I frankly confess I found him far more delightful and satisfactory in person than in print. A year later I started for the same country, this time encumbered with a wife and a tricycle. Mr. Howells could no longer be mycicerone: in the first place he was back in Boston,—I might add, as if in parenthesis, calling me "lucky dog" for being able to go so soon again over the well-known ground; and,in the second place, because the route I now intended to take is not described in his books. But it is in Hawthorne's "Note-Book," a volume which, as I have just said, I had frequently studied. But of course I forgot to put it in my knapsack, and so had not a chance to see it until I arrived in Rome. When I there looked into it, naturally in a more critical spirit—inspired by personal knowledge of the subject—than I ever had before, the first thing that struck me was the advantage I had had over my old master in travelling by tricycle instead of by diligence. From the little village of Passignano to Rome we had followed exactly the same road, and though we began our rides at its opposite ends, I could still easily compare the time we had made, and the comfort and convenience and pleasure we had enjoyed by the way. As this comparison may be interesting to many who intend some day to make the cycling tour of Italy, I will here briefly indicate Hawthorne's experience, principally as to time and roads, and then mine:—
HAWTHORNE'S JOURNEY TO FLORENCE.
FIRST DAY OF TRIP.
We passed through the Porta del Popolo at about 8 o'clock, and ... began our journey along the Flaminian Way.... The road was not particularly picturesque. The country undulated, butscarcely rose into hills.... Finally came to the village of Castel Nuovo di Porta ... between 12 and 1.... Afternoon, Soracte rose before us.... The road kept trending towards the mountain, following the line of the old Flaminian Way, which we could see at frequent intervals close beside the modern track. It is paved with large flagstones, laid so accurately together that it is still, in some places, as smooth and even as the floor of a church, and everywhere the tufts of grass found it difficult to root themselves into the interstices.... Its course is straighter than that of the road of to-day.... I forget where we finally lost it.... Passed through the town of Rignano—road still grew more and more picturesque.... Came in sight of the high, flat table-land, on which stands Cività Castellana.... After passing over the bridge, I alighted with J. and R. and made the ascent on foot.... At the top our vetturino took us into the carriage again, and quickly brought us to what appears to be a very good hotel.... After a splendid dinner we walked out into the little town, etc.
MY NOTES.
LAST DAY OF TRIP.
We left Cività Castellana at a quarter of eight. Road so rough, had to walk down-hill and up again. (So did Hawthorne's party.) Road very picturesque, and, before long, a distant glimpse of St. Peter's. Began to see, and occasionally to feel, the paving of the old Flaminian Way, which is abominable. Made of flagstones thrown roughly together, or else little blocks, like the Roman pavement. Coming on a stretch of it, at the foot of a hill, and hidden with dust, smashed our luggage-carrier, and loosened the machine,—more than the whole trip had done. Passed Rignano,—usual sensation,—goodcafé. Under Soracte all morning. Reached Castel Nuovo di Porta at 11. (Distance to this village from Cività Castellana much farther than from it to Rome, yet we reached it one hour sooner than Hawthorne did, starting out from Rome.) Road got worse and worse. Finally nothing but ruts and stones. Hills not to be laughed at (though Hawthorne thought them scarcely perceptible). Arrived at the Porta del Popolo about half-past one. (About three and a half hours' better time than Hawthorne.) Distance, thirty-five Italian miles.
SECOND DAY.
Roused at 4 o'clock this morning; ... ready to start between 5 and 6.... Remember nothing particularly till we came to Borghetto.... After leaving Borghetto, we crossed the broad valley of the Tiber.... Otricoli by and by appeared.... As the road kept ascending, and as the hills grew to be mountainous, we had taken on two additional horses, making six in all, with a man and boy ... to keep them in motion.... Murray's guide-book is exceedingly vague and unsatisfactory along this route.... Farther on [we saw] the gray tower of Narni.... A long, winding street passes through Narni, broadening at one point into a market-place; ... came out from it on the other side.... The road went winding down into the peaceful vale.... From Narni to Terni I remember nothing that need be recorded. Terni, like so many other towns in the neighborhood, stands in a high and commanding position.... We reached it between 11 and 12.... It is worth while to record, as history ofvetturinocommissary customs, that for breakfast we had coffee, eggs, and bread and butter; for lunch, an omelette, stewed veal, figs and grapes, and two decanters of wine; for dinner an excellent vermicelli soup, two young fowls fricasseed, and a hind-quarter of roast lamb, with fritters, oranges, and figs, and two more decanters of wine.
OUR SECOND DAY FROM ROME.
(We never got up at any such unearthly hours as Hawthorne indulged in.) Left Terni at 11 o'clock, having been obliged to get a new brake made. Terni, dead level, in low valley,—straight, wide road, ten miles across the valley,—surface of the road good. Just outside of Narni road climbs up a steep hill into the town. (There must have been an earthquake since Hawthorne's time, as Terni, which he saw in a high and commanding position, now stands in the lowest part of the valley, with mountains all around.) From Narni up nearly all the way to Otricoli, with the exception of here and there such a steep descent that we had to hold the machine back with all our might, riding for several hours was almost impossible. (Wish we had had six horses, a man, and a boy to pull us on.) From Otricoli, down and all across the valley, excellent riding to Borghetto; then big hill up, out on to the Campagna, and up and down—good road—all the way to Cività Castellana, which we reached between 6 and 7. Terrible sensation!!! (This day Hawthorne came in two hours ahead; but he had six horses and the hills in his favor.) We eat every day coffee, bread and butter, and rolls in the morning; for lunch, a beefsteak, or macaroni, and fruit,no wine, but fresh lemons and water; for dinner, soup, two meats, fruit, and afiascoof wine. Distance about thirty-three Italian miles. (We carried Baedeker, and not Murray, and found it not unsatisfactory.)
THIRD DAY.
At 6 o'clock this morning ... we drove out of the city gate of Terni.... Our way was now through the vale of Terni.... Soon began to wind among steep and lofty hills.... Wretched villages.... At Strettura we added two oxen to our horses, and began to ascend the Monte Somma, which ... is nearly four thousand feet high where we crossed it. When we came to the steepest part of the ascent, Gaetanoallowed us to walk.... We arrived at Spoleto before noon.... After lunch ... we found our way up a steep and narrow street that led us to the city gate.... Resumed our journey, emerging from the city into the classic valley of the Clitumnus.... After passing Le Vene, we came to the little temple ... immortalized by Pliny.... I remember nothing else of the valley of Clitumnus, except that the beggars ... were well-nigh profane in the urgency of their petitions. The city of Terni seems completely to cover a high peaked hill.... We reached Foligno in good seasonyesterday afternoon. [This passage really belongs to his fourth day of travel, but as it shows at what time of the third day he reached Foligno, I have included it with the third.]
THIRD DAY.
Left Assisi about 8. Splendid coast down into the valley. Beautiful ride over the undulating road, past Spello to Foligno, not stopping in the latter place, excepting to have accidents wished us by an old woman we almost ran over. Then through the beautiful valley of the Clitumnus—grand road—lovely day and wonderfully fair country. (We saw no beggars.) Rode by the little temple spoken of by Pliny. Ate some bread and cheese at Le Vene. Reached Spoleto at one; lunched; then rode up the steep street, through the gate at the other end of the city, and then began a tremendous climb of six miles over Monte Somma, most of which we had to walk. At last had hard work to push. Coming finally to the top, found the descent on the other side even steeper. Where it was a little less steep, we got on the machine, put on the brake, which came off in my hand. Bad brake was the one defect in our tandem. Had to walk the rest of the way. In Strettura, men set bull on us. (Not quite so pleasant as Hawthorne's experience.) Arrived in Terni at 8 o'clock, having walked the last few miles by moonlight,—about forty miles all together, of which we walked fully the last fourteen. (Made in one day what Hawthorne did in a day and a half.)
FOURTH DAY.
I have already remarked that it is still possible to live well in Italy at no great expense, and that the high prices charged toforestieriare artificial, and ought to be abated.... We left Foligno betimes in the morning; ... soon passed the old town of Spello.... By and by we reached Assisi. We ate ourdéjeûner, and resumed our journey.... We soon reached the Church of St. Mary of the Angels.... By and by came to the foot of the high hill on which stands Perugia, and which is so long and steep that Gaetano took a yoke of oxen to aid his horses in the ascent. We all, except my wife, walked a part of the way up.... The coach lagged far behind us.
FOURTH DAY.
(Expenses of this trip about five francs a day each.) Rode from Perugia to Assisi, a distance of fourteen miles, in about two hours. Splendid coast down the hill outside of Perugia (up which Hawthorne walked). Crossed the Tiber. Visited Santa Maria degli Angeli. Awful stitch in my side. Climbed up into Assisi, where we stayed all afternoon, to recover, and to see the church.
FIFTH DAY.
Left Perugia about 3 o'clock to-day, and went down a pretty steep descent.... The road began to ascend before reaching the village of Mugione; ... between 5 and 6 we came in sight of the Lake of Thrasymene, ... then reached the town of Passignano. (He stayed there all night.)
FIFTH DAY.
I covered their fifth and sixth days' ride, this time by myself on the tricycle, in three hours and a half actual riding time, and was pulled up the long hill into Perugia, in a most easy and delightful way, behind the diligence.
From Arezzo, Hawthorne went directly to Florence in one day, over a road which Italian cyclers have told me is excellent, and which is the post-road to Rome. We went by way of Montepulciano and Siena, being between two and three weeks on the way. I hope this short account of about one third of our ride will convince other people that cycling is far quicker than the old posting system, far pleasanter than riding in a stuffy railway-carriage, which whirls you through tunnels, and far the best way in which to see Italy,—a country which abounds in magnificent roads, and which should be thoroughly explored by all cyclers who care for something beside record-making.
SIXTH DAY.
We started at 6 o'clock ... [for Arezzo]. We saw Cortona, like so many other cities in this region, on its hill, and arrived about noon at Arezzo.
University Press: John Wilson and Son, Cambridge.
Transcriber Notes:Throughout the dialogues, there were words used to mimic accents of the speakers. Those words were retained as-is.In three instances there were cases where the word "eat" appeared one expect the word "ate". No change was made.The illustrations have been moved so that they do not break up paragraphs and so that they are next to the text they illustrate.In the Appendix, the pages were reformatted to to make it easier to read in an electronic form.Errors in punctuations and inconsistent hyphenation were not corrected unless otherwise noted.
Throughout the dialogues, there were words used to mimic accents of the speakers. Those words were retained as-is.
In three instances there were cases where the word "eat" appeared one expect the word "ate". No change was made.
The illustrations have been moved so that they do not break up paragraphs and so that they are next to the text they illustrate.
In the Appendix, the pages were reformatted to to make it easier to read in an electronic form.
Errors in punctuations and inconsistent hyphenation were not corrected unless otherwise noted.