CHAPTER XIIILAST JOURNEY TO THE COAST
CHAPTER XIIILAST JOURNEY TO THE COAST
CHAPTER XIIILAST JOURNEY TO THE COAST
CHAPTER XIII
LAST JOURNEY TO THE COAST
From our camp at Mafulu a march of from five to six hours brought us to Foula. On our way we rested at a little village, one of those belonging to the Foula people, but situated on the opposite ridge. There I missed my prismatic compass, and was rather concerned, but I ordered a thorough search in the bags, and was glad to find it. At this village the natives were reluctant to move on, and I believe that they were aware we were about to have bad weather, for before we had gone much farther we were in the midst of a deluge. I accordingly paid off all the unwilling carriers and allowed them to return home, hoping to get more at Foula. There they told us that as the Delava River was swollen there was no crossing, so I went down to inspect it myself and found it in a most terrible state. The stream was full of tangled mangrove roots and treacherous with slimy ooze. It was a horrible and uninviting flood to enter, with its foul waters and its mosquitoes, and one knew that it was a veritable fever-trap. In we had to go, however, the natives making a terrible splashing. For the most part we were wading up to our hips in water, picking our way as best we could across the tangled mangrove roots, and occasionally slipping down between them to a depth oftwo feet, these slips threatening to take Harry out of his depth. For part of the way we had to swim.
When we had crossed we took our way to Babooni, along a track which ran up a valley and then wound up steep precipices. There was no actual village there, but only a camp which had been built by Sam on the extreme edge of the ridge. The situation was grandly picturesque, for this ridge terminated in an abrupt precipice, falling several hundred feet, and having the appearance of a huge headland thrust out into the valley. On each side the cliff came to within a few feet of our collecting verandah, and looking down from it we could see the confluence of three silvery streams, winding through charming tropical vegetation. Babooni would have been an ideal spot for a picnic. There we spent three weeks and had wonderful success in our work.
Except that we were in daylight and amid delightful scenery—a welcome change from the awful gloom of the forest at Mafulu—we were, as far as living went, no better off than we had been on the higher ground, and our staple food was still sweet potatoes; but it was something to have the sun again, and altogether we were conscious of a reviving feeling of exhilaration at Babooni. TheDrepanornis Albertisii, one of the finest of the birds of paradise, abounded, and we secured a considerable number of specimens on the opposite hill. I also secured a fine series of theOrnithoptera primus, the bird-winged butterfly, which is distinguished by its beautiful green and velvet-black wings, with brilliant golden fore-wings, the under side of which is black. It is very partial to the flowers of the tree Spirea, among the foliage of which its black and gold wings can continually be seen twinkling. Its colour contrast, indeed, gives it a most remarkable appearance in flight.
A SPIDER’S WEB AS A FISHING-NET: A STRANGE NEW GUINEA DEVICE.A very huge and strong spider’s web, common to New Guinea, is used by the natives as a fishing-net. They set up in the forest a bamboo, bent as in the picture, and leave it until the spiders have covered it with a web in the manner shown.
A SPIDER’S WEB AS A FISHING-NET: A STRANGE NEW GUINEA DEVICE.A very huge and strong spider’s web, common to New Guinea, is used by the natives as a fishing-net. They set up in the forest a bamboo, bent as in the picture, and leave it until the spiders have covered it with a web in the manner shown.
A SPIDER’S WEB AS A FISHING-NET: A STRANGE NEW GUINEA DEVICE.A very huge and strong spider’s web, common to New Guinea, is used by the natives as a fishing-net. They set up in the forest a bamboo, bent as in the picture, and leave it until the spiders have covered it with a web in the manner shown.
But scientific work cannot be done on sweet potatoes alone, so I sent Wei-Yah and five men to Ekeikei to replenish our larder. They took a week on the journey, and on their return reported that the Ekeikei camp was safe, but there had been thefts from the stores at the Kebea. The foolish fellows had come back without salt, and as five men cannot carry very much, we were only a little better off than we had been. We were also in dire want of “trade,” and there would be fairly long accounts to settle with our carriers for the rest of the journey, the Foula men having exhausted all our trade when we paid them off at Babooni. In our straits, however, nature provided us with at least one delicacy, and we shall always remember Babooni gratefully for its tree-cabbage. These edible leaves grow on a small tree like a sycamore, and the manner of cooking is as follows: Each leaf is plucked separately, and when a sufficient number has been got together they are tied up into neat packets, bound round in banana leaves and cane string. Then stones are collected and heated on a large wood fire, and on the top of the hot stones the bundles of cabbage are placed, and over them the natives lay more banana leaves to a depth of about two feet, and above all another layer of hot stones. In about one hour the cabbage is cooked, the outer wrapping is taken off, and the delicacy is served on a banana leaf or a dish. It is a perfect god-send to the half-starved traveller.
From Babooni we returned to the Kebea, varying our route so as to include the village of Waley, which we entered during a heavy rainstorm. Waley is a pleasantly situated village, occupying the whole of one side of a hill, where a large clearing had been burnt out and planted with sugar-cane and bananas. The natives had also laid out extensive and well-planted gardens.
One of the curiosities of Waley, and, indeed, one of the greatest curiosities that I noted during my stay in New Guinea, was the spiders’ web fishing-net.
In the forest at this point huge spiders’ webs, 6 feet in diameter, abounded. These are woven in a large mesh, varying from 1 inch square at the outside of the web to about ⅛th inch at the centre. The web was most substantial, and had great resisting power, a fact of which the natives were not slow to avail themselves, for they have pressed into the service of man this spider, which is about the size of a small hazel-nut, with hairy, dark-brown legs, spreading to about 2 inches. This diligent creature they have beguiled into weaving their fishing-nets. At the place where the webs are thickest they set up long bamboos, bent over into a loop at the end. In a very short time the spider weaves a web on this most convenient frame, and the Papuan has his fishing-net ready to his hand. He goes down to the stream and uses it with great dexterity to catch fish of about 1 lb. weight, neither the water nor the fish sufficing to break the mesh. The usual practice is to stand on a rock in a backwater where there is an eddy. There they watch for a fish, and then dexterously dip itup and throw it on to the bank. Several men would set up bamboos so as to have nets ready all together, and would then arrange little fishing parties. It seemed to me that the substance of the web resisted water as readily as a duck’s back.
Waley was also a place for dancing. Thither the tribes came for great Terpsichorean festivals, and invitations used to be sent as far as Foula by special messengers to bid the Foula people to these entertainments. As we passed Babooni we had met these couriers on their way to tell the Foula people about a dance that was shortly to be held, and inviting them to come and bring all their fine feather-work—the Papuan dress-suit—and all their pretty women. These dances often last for a week, and the revellers feast during the day and at night dance by torch-light. During the time we were in camp the noise of dancing and singing never ceased, and the fat pigs were continually being killed. This indispensable adjunct of Papuan life is solemnly divided according to ceremonial custom, and certain parts are reserved for the leading degrees of the tribesmen. The guests receive the more honourable portions, and in this instance the chief from Foula would receive the most honoured part of all.
The tribesmen come to the dance fully armed, bearing spears 10 feet long, which were often splendidly decorated with birds’ feathers; over the point would be slung a pod full of seeds, which rattled as the spear was brandished in the dance.
When we left Waley we pursued a very winding path through steep valleys, zig-zaging up the face ofprecipices and along the tops of almost razor-like ridges.
On our return to the Kebea we picked a very fine crop of beans of our own sowing. The Papuan bean is broader than ours, and is gathered at a rather later stage; it is largely cultivated in the native villages. Once at the Kebea we had seriously to face the problem of getting down to the coast. Here we were with all our collections on our hands, as well as our stores and “trade” to meet the charges of our carriers none too plentiful. Obviously, the right plan would be to get the natives to engage to carry for us right down to Pokama on Hall Sound, for if we should be faced with the necessity of paying off a gang at Ekeikei, we should be cleaned right out of the equivalent of ready cash. I opened negotiations tentatively, and allowed the idea to get wind among my followers; then the thing began to be mooted in camp conversations, and the men would go off to discuss it with their womenkind. At first they were in great doubt, saying that it was very far, they did not know the country beyond such a place, and they would be very frightened in strange districts, especially on their return. At our invitation they gathered for a great conference, and I may be said to have summoned a Papuan Parliament, which immediately went into committee to discuss ways and means. I sent out Ow-bow, and several reliable fellows whom we knew to be willing to go all the way with us, to induce the others to come to the congress, and when we got them together we told them that if they would go to Hall Sound with us, we would make each man a certain payment, enumerating the different articles we were prepared to pay on our arrival at Pokama. We added that if any one preferred that his wages should include a preponderance of tobacco, or beads, or calico, over other articles, we should be quite agreeable.
FISHING WITH THE SPIDER’S-WEB NET.The natives are here using the curious net prepared in the manner shown in another picture.
FISHING WITH THE SPIDER’S-WEB NET.The natives are here using the curious net prepared in the manner shown in another picture.
FISHING WITH THE SPIDER’S-WEB NET.The natives are here using the curious net prepared in the manner shown in another picture.
They gathered round our little house, some in and some out, and smoked the everlasting bau-bau, keeping up the while a quiet conversation. The women with husbands made difficulties, as was to be expected. They would say to any man who showed a disposition to join the expedition: “But we want you to help us in our gardens.” One of the wives proved especially a thorn in our side. She was the worst woman we met in Papua, the possessor of a terrible tongue, and she was always setting the men against going anywhere. The other women disliked her heartily, and there were always rows when she came into camp. Not once, but twenty times, were we annoyed by these disturbances, for Gouba, her husband, believed in attempting to tame his shrew, although, alas! he never succeeded. His methods were simple and drastic. He would pick up a billet of wood, when she was half-way through a tremendous scolding, and fetch her a terrific blow over the back. Thereupon ensued Pandemonium; the other men and women would gather round jabbering, but they made no attempt to stop the beating once it had begun. The unfortunate man had another wife, and the scolding one was not always with him, but when she was there was trouble. Gouba was willing enough to stay with us, poor fellow, but Mrs. Gouba was always on thequi vivefor some village dance or other. Hersocial engagements invariably clashed with Gouba’s industrial projects, and between them they made the camp very hot. To see her running with Gouba after her was a memorable sight. Of course, no Englishman likes to see a woman knocked about, but from what Ow-bow used to tell us, I am persuaded that Gouba was a sorely-tried man, and I should not be surprised to hear that by this time he has arranged a divorce on Henry the Eighth’s plan, and that Mrs. Gouba is now no more.
But to return to our Parliament. I finally carried my point and engaged the carriers, but, alas! it was only by committing the only act of perfidy which I can lay to my conscience in all my dealings with natives. I found that if we were to get out of the country safely I must offer some further inducement, other than the ordinary articles of trade, and accordingly, although I had no intention of contravening the Government regulations so far, I said that a gun would be included in the wages of those who went down to Pokama. When the time came for this promise to be made good, I simply explained that the Government would not permit me to give them the gun. They acquiesced quite cheerfully, and consented to receive compensation in other articles. That there was no discontent or resentment, I am persuaded, and I had ample proof of this in my final parting from my followers, which I shall relate in its proper place.
We now returned to Ekeikei, and on arrival there passed from the land of starvation to the land of abundance; hunting was once more possible, andearly on the morning after our arrival we sent out our shooters, who came in loaded with cassowary, Gaura pigeon, wallaby, pig, and other spoils. The natives were in clover once again, and had a glorious time building fires, dressing the game, and preparing the food, for your Papuan’s greatest pleasure is to eat as much as he can, and in the shortest possible time, to sing, and then to sleep. Meals of Homeric generosity were devoured, and thereafter our people sat round their camp fires singing the beautiful mountain melodies of which I have already spoken. The prettiest and most soothing of all their tunes was the following, which has often with its gentle cadence lulled me to sleep in the wilds:—
Chi-li-pa-la lu-a chi-li-pa-la lu-a lay: Chi-li-pa-la lu-a.
At Ekeikei we had, of course, to take up many additional loads of baggage, and the resources of our staff, already severely tried, threatened to prove entirely inadequate. Further recruits were not forthcoming, so all the baggage had to be re-distributed and the bags repacked. Even when this was done, and an additional weight apportioned to each man, we found that ten carriers more would be wanted, but as these were not obtainable I decided to leave Wei-Yah with theremaining baggage until I could get down to Epa, where I trusted that my old friend Mavai would send it in relays for me to Oo-fa-fa.
At Epa things looked rather hopeless, for not only did five of my carriers bolt, leaving me saddled with their loads, but Mavai proved a broken reed. My ancient ally was no longer a white man, and for some unexplained reason had turned very uncivil. When I asked for carriers he said he had “no people,” but his village seemed as populous as ever, and the same numbers streamed in from the yam patch in the evening. I had a big talk with him over night, but could make no terms with him. Next morning Harry and I again had a long quiet talk with his Highness, and at last he relented so far that he ascended his platform, but did not don the persuasive red coat. He waxed fairly eloquent, gesticulated wildly, and at last, about 7P.M., things took a better turn, and the first carriers consented to engage with us. Then the right honourable gentleman resumed his seat, having spoken just over half-an-hour. Next day they sulkily picked up their loads and set out. Mavai himself, believing that example was better than precept, marched with the first detachment. He himself shouldered a load. Thus we got everything away with the exception of two loads, the carriers in charge of which sat sullenly in their house. Finally, Harry and I had to go over and make these two fellows pick up their burdens, and thus we took leave of Epa.
A WEIRD TRIBAL DANCE.The central figure wears a huge head-dress of bird of Paradise plumes surmounted by a gigantic aigrette of parrots’ feathers (to be seen in the background). The rank and file wear grass-fibre head-dresses.
A WEIRD TRIBAL DANCE.The central figure wears a huge head-dress of bird of Paradise plumes surmounted by a gigantic aigrette of parrots’ feathers (to be seen in the background). The rank and file wear grass-fibre head-dresses.
A WEIRD TRIBAL DANCE.The central figure wears a huge head-dress of bird of Paradise plumes surmounted by a gigantic aigrette of parrots’ feathers (to be seen in the background). The rank and file wear grass-fibre head-dresses.
The journey to Oo-fa-fa was accomplished in very sultry, trying weather, through a country that afforded little shade. The ground was stony, broken here and there with patches of wild oats and groups of eucalyptus trees, which ran up to a height of about 30 feet, and were conspicuous by their silvery bark, which was constantly peeling off like tissue paper.
Having once undertaken the job, Mavai was as good as his word, and took us down to Oo-fa-fa, where we got boats. There I had a nasty accident. We put up for the night in a hut belonging to Mr. Jack Exton, the sandalwood trader, a very industrious and indefatigable man, who has made good roads to haul his timber down to the coast, and is very popular with the natives. “Jack,” as we called him, entertained us very kindly at his camp when we first went to Epa, and gave us every assistance in his power. During the first night at Oo-fa-fa I was sitting on a native hammock in the hut, when suddenly the cords gave way and I fell backwards upon a sharp stump and hurt my back severely. My leather belt saved me from any very serious injury, and there was fortunately no penetration, but the pain was intense for three or four days. I fomented the bruises with hot water at Oo-fa-fa, and managed to get down to the canoe next day, but I had to lie still during the rest of the voyage. At Pokama I was greatly relieved by the application of Elliman’s Embrocation, but I had difficulty in walking and was not free from pain for ten days.
At the Sound some of the native carriers, those paying their first visit to the coast, drank great quantities of salt water without evil consequences.
The canoe voyage was rather uneventful. Our flotilla was not numerous enough; the canoes wehad were overladen, and, accordingly, we sent some baggage overland to Pokama. At that point the Rev. Mr. Dauncey received us with great hospitality, and with him we stayed while we were paying off our natives. To Ow-bow I entrusted the wages of the five rascals who had run away from us at Epa, and I have no doubt he paid it over scrupulously.
After our business was concluded, the mountain people went away with very happy faces, and bade us good-bye, cordially hoping that they would see us again, and saying that on my return, if I sent for them, they would come down to the coast and carry me up-country. Some of them even wept as they took leave, and I must confess that I was genuinely sorry to part from my warm-hearted, good-natured followers, who had up to the last served me faithfully, in spite of occasional fits of refractoriness, which, after all, were easy enough to understand. It said a good deal for them that they followed the unknown white man as cheerfully as they did.