CHAPTER XXXV

Dec.4th.

No time after all.  Good-bye.

R. L S.

My dear Colvin,—One page out of my picture book I must give you.  Fine burning day; half past twoP.M.We four begin to rouse up from reparatory slumbers, yawn, and groan, get a cup of tea, and miserably dress: we have had a party the day before, X’mas Day, with all the boys absent but one, and latterly two; we had cooked all day long, a cold dinner, and lo! at two our guests began to arrive, though dinner was not till six; they were sixteen, and fifteen slept the night and breakfasted.  Conceive, then, how unwillingly we climb on our horses and start off in the hottest part of the afternoon to ride 4½ miles, attend a native feast in the gaol, and ride four and a half miles back.  But there is no help for it.  I am a sort of father of the political prisoners, and havecharge d’âmesin that riotously absurd establishment, Apia Gaol.  The twenty-three (I think it is) chiefs act as under gaolers.  The other day they told the Captain of an attempt to escape.  One of the lesser political prisoners the other day effected a swift capture, while the Captain was trailing about with the warrant; the man came to see what was wanted; came, too, flanked by the former gaoler; my prisoner offers to show him the dark cell, shoves him in, and locks the door.  ‘Why do you do that?’ cries the former gaoler.  ‘A warrant,’ says he.  Finally, the chiefs actually feed the soldiery who watch them!

The gaol is a wretched little building, containing a little room, and three cells, on each side of a central passage; it is surrounded by a fence of corrugated iron, and shows, over the top of that, only a gable end with the inscriptionO le Fale Puipui.  It is on the edge of the mangrove swamp, and is reached by a sort of causeway of turf.  When we drew near, we saw the gates standing open and a prodigious crowd outside—I mean prodigious for Apia, perhaps a hundred and fifty people.  The two sentries at the gate stood to arms passively, and there seemed to be a continuous circulation inside and out.  The captain came to meet us; our boy, who had been sent ahead was there to take the horses; and we passed inside the court which was full of food, and rang continuously to the voice of the caller of gifts; I had to blush a little later when my own present came, and I heard my one pig and eight miserable pine-apples being counted out like guineas.  In the four corners of the yard and along one wall, there are make-shift, dwarfish, Samoan houses or huts, which have been run up since Captain Wurmbrand came to accommodate the chiefs.  Before that they were all crammed into the six cells, and locked in for the night, some of them with dysentery.  They are wretched constructions enough, but sanctified by the presence of chiefs.  We heard a man corrected loudly to-day for saying ‘Fale’ of one of them; ‘Maota,’ roared the highest chief present—‘palace.’  About eighteen chiefs, gorgeously arrayed, stood up to greet us, and led us into one of thesemaotas, where you may be sure we had to crouch, almost to kneel, to enter, and where a row of pretty girls occupied one side to make the ava (kava).  The highest chief present was a magnificent man, as high chiefs usually are; I find I cannot describe him; his face is full of shrewdness and authority; his figure like Ajax; his name Auilua.  He took the head of the building and put Belle on his right hand.  Fanny was called first for the ava (kava).  Our names were called in English style, the high-chief wife of Mr. St— (an unpronounceable something); Mrs. Straw, and the like.  And when we went into the other house to eat, we found we were seated alternately with chiefs about the—table, I was about to say, but rather floor.  Everything was to be done European style with a vengeance!  We were the only whites present, except Wurmbrand, and still I had no suspicion of the truth.  They began to take off their ulas (necklaces of scarlet seeds) and hang them about our necks; we politely resisted, and were told that the King (who had stopped off theirsiva) had sent down to the prison a message to the effect that he was to give a dinner to-morrow, and wished their second-hand ulas for it.  Some of them were content; others not.  There was a ring of anger in the boy’s voice, as he told us we were to wear them past the King’s house.  Dinner over, I must say they are moderate eaters at a feast, we returned to the ava house; and then the curtain drew suddenly up upon the set scene.  We took our seats, and Auilua began to give me a present, recapitulating each article as he gave it out, with some appropriate comment.  He called me several times ‘their only friend,’ said they were all in slavery, had no money, and these things were all made by the hands of their families—nothing bought; he had one phrase, in which I heard his voice rise up to a note of triumph: ‘This is a present from the poor prisoners to the rich man.’  Thirteen pieces of tapa, some of them surprisingly fine, one I think unique; thirty fans of every shape and colour; a kava cup, etc., etc.  At first Auilua conducted the business with weighty gravity; but before the end of the thirty fans, his comments began to be humorous.  When it came to a little basket, he said: ‘Here was a little basket for Tusitala to put sixpence in, when he could get hold of one’—with a delicious grimace.  I answered as best as I was able through a miserable interpreter; and all the while, as I went on, I heard the crier outside in the court calling my gift of food, which I perceived was to be Gargantuan.  I had brought but three boys with me.  It was plain that they were wholly overpowered.  We proposed to send for our gifts on the morrow; but no, said the interpreter, that would never do; they must go away to-day, Mulinuu must see my porters taking away the gifts,—‘make ’em jella,’ quoth the interpreter.  And I began to see the reason of this really splendid gift; one half, gratitude to me—one half, a wipe at the King.

And now, to introduce darker colours, you must know this visit of mine to the gaol was just a little bit risky; we had several causes for anxiety; itmighthave been put up, to connect with a Tamasese rising.  Tusitala and his family would be good hostages.  On the other hand, there were the Mulinuu people all about.  We could see the anxiety of Captain Wurmbrand, no less anxious to have us go, than he had been to see us come; he was deadly white and plainly had a bad headache, in the noisy scene.  Presently, the noise grew uproarious; there was a rush at the gate—a rush in, not a rush out—where the two sentries still stood passive; Auilua leaped from his place (it was then that I got the name of Ajax for him) and the next moment we heard his voice roaring and saw his mighty figure swaying to and fro in the hurly-burly.  As the deuce would have it, we could not understand a word of what was going on.  It might be nothing more than the ordinary ‘grab racket’ with which a feast commonly concludes; it might be something worse.  We made what arrangements we could for my tapa, fans, etc., as well as for my five pigs, my masses of fish, taro, etc., and with great dignity, and ourselves laden with ulas and other decorations, passed between the sentries among the howling mob to our horses.  All’s well that ends well.  Owing to Fanny and Belle, we had to walk; and, as Lloyd said, ‘he had at last ridden in a circus.’  The whole length of Apia we paced our triumphal progress, past the King’s palace, past the German firm at Sogi—you can follow it on the map—amidst admiring exclamations of ‘Mawaia’—beautiful—it may be rendered ‘O my! ain’t they dandy’—until we turned up at last into our road as the dusk deepened into night.  It was really exciting.  And there is one thing sure: no such feast was ever made for a single family, and no such present ever given to a single white man.  It is something to have been the hero of it.  And whatever other ingredients there were, undoubtedly gratitude was present.  As money value I have actually gained on the transaction!

Your note arrived; little profit, I must say.  Scott has already put his nose in, inSt. Ives, sir; but his appearance is not yet complete; nothing is in that romance, except the story.  I have to announce that I am off work, probably for six months.  I must own that I have overworked bitterly—overworked—there, that’s legible.  My hand is a thing that was, and in the meanwhile so are my brains.  And here, in the very midst, comes a plausible scheme to make Vailima pay, which will perhaps let me into considerable expense just when I don’t want it.  You know the vast cynicism of my view of affairs, and how readily and (as some people say) with how much gusto I take the darker view?

Why do you not send me Jerome K. Jerome’s paper, and let me seeThe Ebb Tideas a serial?  It is always very important to see a thing in different presentments.  I want every number.  Politically we begin the new year with every expectation of a bust in 2 or 3 days, a bust which may spell destruction to Samoa.  I have written to Baxter about his proposal.

Portrait of R. L. Stevenson with the Native Chief Tui Malealiifano

Vailima,Jan.29th, 1894.

My dear Colvin,—I had fully intended for your education and moral health to fob you off with the meanest possible letter this month, and unfortunately I find I will have to treat you to a good long account of matters here.  I believe I have told you before about Tui-ma-le-alii-fano and my taking him down to introduce him to the Chief Justice.  Well, Tui came back to Vailima one day in the blackest sort of spirits, saying the war was decided, that he also must join in the fight, and that there was no hope whatever of success.  He must fight as a point of honour for his family and country; and in his case, even if he escaped on the field of battle, deportation was the least to be looked for.  He said he had a letter of complaint from the Great Council of A’ana which he wished to lay before the Chief Justice; and he asked me to accompany him as if I were his nurse.  We went down about dinner time; and by the way received from a lurking native the famous letter in an official blue envelope gummed up to the edges.  It proved to be a declaration of war, quite formal, but with some variations that really made you bounce.  White residents were directly threatened, bidden to have nothing to do with the King’s party, not to receive their goods in their houses, etc., under pain of an accident.  However, the Chief Justice took it very wisely and mildly, and between us, he and I and Tui made up a plan which has proved successful—so far.  The war is over—fifteen chiefs are this morning undergoing a curious double process of law, comparable to a court martial; in which their complaints are to be considered, and if possible righted, while their conduct is to be criticised, perhaps punished.  Up to now, therefore, it has been a most successful policy; but the danger is before us.  My own feeling would decidedly be that all would be spoiled by a single execution.  The great hope after all lies in the knotless, rather flaccid character of the people.  These are no Maoris.  All the powers that Cedarcrantz let go by disuse the new C. J. is stealthily and boldly taking back again; perhaps some others also.  He has shamed the chiefs in Mulinuu into a law against taking heads, with a punishment of six years’ imprisonment and, for a chief, degradation.  To him has been left the sole conduct of this anxious and decisive inquiry.  If the natives stand it, why, well!  But I am nervous.

Feb.1894.

Dear Colvin,—By a reaction, when your letter is a little decent, mine is to be naked and unashamed.  We have been much exercised.  No one can prophesy here, of course, and the balance still hangs trembling, but Ithinkit will go for peace.

The mail was very late this time; hence the paltryness of this note.  When it came and I had read it, I retired withThe Ebb Tideand read it all before I slept.  I did not dream it was near as good; I am afraid I think it excellent.  A little indecision about Attwater, not much.  It gives me great hope, as I see Icanwork in that constipated, mosaic manner, which is what I have to do just now withWeir of Hermiston.

We have given a ball; I send you a paper describing the event.  We have two guests in the house, Captain-Count Wurmbrand and Monsieur Albert de Lautreppe.  Lautreppe is awfully nice—a quiet, gentlemanly fellow,gonflé de rêves, as he describes himself—once a sculptor in the atelier of Henry Crosse, he knows something of art, and is really a resource to me.

Letter from Meredith very kind.  Have you seen no more of Graham?

What about my grandfather?  The family history will grow to be quite a chapter.

I suppose I am growing sensitive; perhaps, by living among barbarians, I expect more civility.  Look at this from the author of a very interesting and laudatory critique.  He gives quite a false description of something of mine, and talks about my ‘insolence.’  Frankly, I supposed ‘insolence’ to be a tapua word.  I do not use it to a gentleman, I would not write it of a gentleman: I may be wrong, but I believe we did not write it of a gentleman in old days, and in my view he (clever fellow as he is) wants to be kicked for applying it to me.  By writing a novel—even a bad one—I do not make myself a criminal for anybody to insult.  This may amuse you.  But either there is a change in journalism, too gradual for you to remark it on the spot, or there is a change in me.  I cannot bear these phrases; I long to resent them.  My forbears, the tenant farmers of the Mains, would not have suffered such expressions unless it had been from Cauldwell, or Rowallan, or maybe Auchendrane.  My Family Pride bristles.  I am like the negro, ‘I just heard last night’ who my great, great, great, great grandfather was.—Ever yours,

R. L. S.

March1894.

My dear Colvin,—This is the very day the mail goes, and I have as yet written you nothing.  But it was just as well—as it was all about my ‘blacks and chocolates,’ and what of it had relation to whites you will read some of in theTimes.  It means, as you will see, that I have at one blow quarrelled with all the officials of Samoa, the Foreign Office, and I suppose her Majesty the Queen with milk and honey blest.  But you’ll see in theTimes.  I am very well indeed, but just about dead and mighty glad the mail is near here, and I can just give up all hope of contending with my letters, and lie down for the rest of the day.  TheseTimesletters are not easy to write.  And I dare say the Consuls say, ‘Why, then, does he write them?’

I had miserable luck withSt. Ives; being already half-way through it, a book I had ordered six months ago arrives at last, and I have to change the first half of it from top to bottom!  How could I have dreamed the French prisoners were watched over like a female charity school, kept in a grotesque livery, and shaved twice a week?  And I had made all my points on the idea that they were unshaved and clothed anyhow.  However, this last is better business; if only the book had come when I ordered it!A propos, many of the books you announce don’t come as a matter of fact.  When they are of any value, it is best to register them.  Your letter, alas! is not here; I sent it down to the cottage, with all my mail, for Fanny; on Sunday night a boy comes up with a lantern and a note from Fanny, to say the woods are full of Atuas and I must bring a horse down that instant, as the posts are established beyond her on the road, and she does not want to have the fight going on between us.  Impossible to get a horse; so I started in the dark on foot, with a revolver, and my spurs on my bare feet, leaving directions that the boy should mount after me with the horse.  Try such an experience on Our Road once, and do it, if you please, after you have been down town from nine o’clock till six, on board the ship-of-war lunching, teaching Sunday School (I actually do) and making necessary visits; and the Saturday before, having sat all day from half past six to half-past four, scriving at myTimesletter.  About half-way up, just in fact at ‘point’ of the outposts, I met Fanny coming up.  Then all night long I was being wakened with scares that really should be looked into, though Iknewthere was nothing in them and no bottom to the whole story; and the drums and shouts and cries from Tanugamanono and the town keeping up an all night corybantic chorus in the moonlight—the moon rose late—and the search-light of the war-ship in the harbour making a jewel of brightness as it lit up the bay of Apia in the distance.  And then next morning, about eight o’clock, a drum coming out of the woods and a party of patrols who had been in the woods on our left front (which is our true rear) coming up to the house, and meeting there another party who had been in the woods on our right [front / rear] which is Vaea Mountain, and 43 of them being entertained to ava and biscuits on the verandah, and marching off at last in single file for Apia.  Briefly, it is not much wonder if your letter and my whole mail was left at the cottage, and I have no means of seeing or answering particulars.

The whole thing was nothing but a bottomless scare; it wasobviouslyso; you couldn’t make a child believe it was anything else, but it has made the Consuls sit up.  My own private scares were really abominably annoying; as for instance after I had got to sleep for the ninth time perhaps—and that was no easy matter either, for I had a crick in my neck so agonising that I had to sleep sitting up—I heard noises as of a man being murdered in the boys’ house.  To be sure, said I, this is nothing again, but if a man’s head was being taken, the noises would be the same!  So I had to get up, stifle my cries of agony from the crick, get my revolver, and creep out stealthily to the boys’ house.  And there were two of them sitting up, keeping watch of their own accord like good boys, and whiling the time over a game of Sweepi (Cascino—the whist of our islanders)—and one of them was our champion idiot, Misifolo, and I suppose he was holding bad cards, and losing all the time—and these noises were his humorous protests against Fortune!

Well, excuse this excursion into my ‘blacks and chocolates.’  It is the last.  You will have heard from Lysaght how I failed to write last mail.  The said Lysaght seems to me a very nice fellow.  We were only sorry he could not stay with us longer.  Austin came back from school last week, which made a great time for the Amanuensis, you may be sure.  Then on Saturday, theCuraçoacame in—same commission, with all our old friends; and on Sunday, as already mentioned, Austin and I went down to service and had lunch afterwards in the wardroom.  The officers were awfully nice to Austin; they are the most amiable ship in the world; and after lunch we had a paper handed round on which we were to guess, and sign our guess, of the number of leaves on the pine-apple; I never saw this game before, but it seems it is much practised in the Queen’s Navee.  When all have betted, one of the party begins to strip the pine-apple head, and the person whose guess is furthest out has to pay for the sherry.  My equanimity was disturbed by shouts ofThe American Commodore, and I found that Austin had entered and lost about a bottle of sherry!  He turned with great composure and addressed me.  ‘I am afraid I must look to you, Uncle Louis.’  The Sunday School racket is only an experiment which I took up at the request of the late American Land Commissioner; I am trying it for a month, and if I do as ill as I believe, and the boys find it only half as tedious as I do, I think it will end in a month.  I havecarte blanche, and say what I like; but does any single soul understand me?

Fanny is on the whole very much better.  Lloyd has been under the weather, and goes for a month to the South Island of New Zealand for some skating, save the mark!  I get all the skating I want among officials.

Dear Colvin, please remember that my life passes among my ‘blacks or chocolates.’  If I were to do as you propose, in a bit of a tiff, it would cut you off entirely from my life.  You must try to exercise a trifle of imagination, and put yourself, perhaps with an effort, into some sort of sympathy with these people, or how am I to write to you?  I think you are truly a little too Cockney with me.—Ever yours,

Robert Louis Stevenson.

Vailima,May18th, 1894.

My dear Colvin,—Your proposals for the Edinburgh edition are entirely to my mind.  About theAmateur Emigrant, it shall go to you by this mail well slashed.  If you like to slash some more on your own account, I give you permission.  ’Tis not a great work; but since it goes to make up the two first volumes as proposed, I presume it has not been written in vain.—Miscellanies.  I see with some alarm the proposal to printJuvenilia; does it not seem to you taking myself a little too much as Grandfather William?  I am certainly not so young as I once was—a lady took occasion to remind me of the fact no later agone than last night.  ‘Why don’t you leave that to the young men, Mr. Stevenson?’ said she—but when I remember that I felt indignant at even John Ruskin when he did something of the kind I really feel myself blush from head to heel.  If you want to make up the first volume, there are a good many works which I took the trouble to prepare for publication and which have never been republished.  In addition toRoadsandDancing Children, referred to by you, there is an Autumn effect in thePortfolio, and a paper onFontainebleau—Forest Notesis the name of it—inCornhill.  I have no objection to any of these being edited, say with a scythe, and reproduced.  But I heartily abominate and reject the idea of reprinting thePentland Rising.  For God’s sake let me get buried first.

Tales and Fantasies.  Vols.I.andII.have my hearty approval.  But I thinkIII.andIV.had better be crammed into one as you suggest.  I will reprint none of the stories mentioned.  They are below the mark.  Well, I dare say the beastlyBody-Snatcherhas merit, and I am unjust to it from my recollections of thePall Mall.  But the other two won’t do.  For vols.V.andVI., now changed intoIV.andV., I propose the common title ofSouth Sea Yarns.  There!  These are all my differences of opinion.  I agree with every detail of your arrangement, and, as you see, my objections have turned principally on the question of hawking unripe fruit.  I daresay it is all pretty green, but that is no reason for us to fill the barrow with trash.  Think of having a new set of type cast, paper especially made, etc., in order to set up rubbish that is not fit for theSaturday Scotsman.  It would be the climax of shame.

I am sending you a lot of verses, which had best, I think, be calledUnderwoodsBookIII., but in what order are they to go?  Also, I am going on every day a little, till I get sick of it, with the attempt to get theEmigrantcompressed into life; I know I can—or you can after me—do it.  It is only a question of time and prayer and ink, and should leave something, no, not good, but not all bad—a very genuine appreciation of these folks.  You are to remember besides there is that paper of mine on Bunyan inThe Magazine of Art.  O, and then there’s another thing inSeeleycalled some spewsome name, I cannot recall it.

Well—come, here goes forJuvenilia.Dancing Infants,Roads,An Autumn Effect,Forest Notes(but this should come at the end of them, as it’s really rather riper), the t’other thing fromSeeley, and I’ll tell you, you may put in my letter to the Church of Scotland—it’s not written amiss, and I daresay thePhilosophy of Umbrellasmight go in, but there I stick—and rememberthatwas a collaboration with James Walter Ferrier.  O, and there was a little skit called theCharity Bazaar, which you might see; I don’t think it would do.  Now, I do not think there are two other words that should be printed.—By the way, there is an article of mine calledThe Day after To-morrowin theContemporarywhich you might find room for somewhere; it is no’ bad.

Very busy with all these affairs and some native ones also.

Vailima, June 18th, 94.

My dear Colvin,—You are to please understand that my last letter is withdrawn unconditionally.  You and Baxter are having all the trouble of this Edition, and I simply put myself in your hands for you to do what you like with me, and I am sure that will be the best, at any rate.  Hence you are to conceive me withdrawing all objections to your printing anything you please.  After all it is a sort of family affair.  About the Miscellany Section, both plans seem to me quite good.  Toss up.  I think theOld Gardenerhas to stay where I put him last.  It would not do to separate John and Robert.

In short, I am only sorry I ever uttered a word about the edition, and leave you to be the judge.  I have had a vile cold which has prostrated me for more than a fortnight, and even now tears me nightly with spasmodic coughs; but it has been a great victory.  I have never borne a cold with so little hurt; wait till the clouds blow by, before you begin to boast!  I have had no fever; and though I’ve been very unhappy, it is nigh over, I think.  Of course,St. Iveshas paid the penalty.  I must not let you be disappointed inSt. I.It is a mere tissue of adventures; the central figure not very well or very sharply drawn; no philosophy, no destiny, to it; some of the happenings very good in themselves, I believe, but none of thembildende, none of them constructive, except in so far perhaps as they make up a kind of sham picture of the time, all in italics and all out of drawing.  Here and there, I think, it is well written; and here and there it’s not.  Some of the episodic characters are amusing, I do believe; others not, I suppose.  However, they are the best of the thing such as it is.  If it has a merit to it, I should say it was a sort of deliberation and swing to the style, which seems to me to suit the mail-coaches and post-chaises with which it sounds all through.  ’Tis my most prosaic book.

I called on the two German ships now in port, and we are quite friendly with them, and intensely friendly of course with our ownCuraçoas.  But it is other guess work on the beach.  Some one has employed, or subsidised, one of the local editors to attack me once a week.  He is pretty scurrilous and pretty false.  The first effect of the perusal of the weekly Beast is to make me angry; the second is a kind of deep, golden content and glory, when I seem to say to people: ‘See! this is my position—I am a plain man dwelling in the bush in a house, and behold they have to get up this kind of truck against me—and I have so much influence that they are obliged to write a weekly article to say I have none.’

By this time you must have seen Lysaght and forgiven me the letter that came not at all.  He was really so nice a fellow—he had so much to tell me of Meredith—and the time was so short—that I gave up the intervening days between mails entirely to entertain him.

We go on pretty nicely.  Fanny, Belle, and I have had two months alone, and it has been very pleasant.  But by to-morrow or next day noon, we shall see the whole clan assembled again about Vailima table, which will be pleasant too; seven persons in all, and the Babel of voices will be heard again in the big hall so long empty and silent.  Good-bye.  Love to all.  Time to close.—Yours ever,

R. L. S.

July, 1894.

My dear Colvin,—I have to thank you this time for a very good letter, and will announce for the future, though I cannot now begin to put in practice, good intentions for our correspondence.  I will try to return to the old system and write from time to time during the month; but truly you did not much encourage me to continue!  However, that is all by-past.  I do not know that there is much in your letter that calls for answer.  Your questions aboutSt. Iveswere practically answered in my last; so were your wails about the edition,Amateur Emigrant, etc.  By the end of the yearSt. I.will be practically finished, whatever it be worth, and that I know not.  When shall I receive proofs of theMagnum Opus? or shall I receive them at all?

The return of the Amanuensis feebly lightens my heart.  You can see the heavy weather I was making of it with my unaided pen.  The last month has been particularly cheery largely owing to the presence of our good friends theCuraçoas.  She is really a model ship, charming officers and charming seamen.  They gave a ball last month, which was very rackety and joyous and naval. . . .

On the following day, about one o’clock, three horsemen might have been observed approaching Vailima, who gradually resolved themselves into two petty officers and a native guide.  Drawing himself up and saluting, the spokesman (a corporal of Marines) addressed me thus.  ‘Me and my shipmates inwites Mr. and Mrs. Stevens, Mrs. Strong, Mr. Austin, and Mr. Balfour to a ball to be given to-night in the self-same ‘all.’  It was of course impossible to refuse, though I contented myself with putting in a very brief appearance.  One glance was sufficient; the ball went off like a rocket from the start.  I had only time to watch Belle careering around with a gallant bluejacket of exactly her own height—the standard of the British navy—an excellent dancer and conspicuously full of small-talk—and to hear a remark from a beach-comber, ‘It’s a nice sight this some way, to see the officers dancing like this with the men, but I tell you, sir, these are the men that’ll fight together!’

I tell you, Colvin, the acquaintance of the men—and boys—makes me feel patriotic.  Eeles in particular is a man whom I respect.  I am half in a mind to give him a letter of introduction to you when he goes home.  In case you feel inclined to make a little of him, give him a dinner, ask Henry James to come to meet him, etc.—you might let me know.  I don’t know that he would show his best, but he is a remarkably fine fellow, in every department of life.

We have other visitors in port.  A Count Festetics de Solna, an Austrian officer, a very pleasant, simple, boyish creature, with his young wife, daughter of an American millionaire; he is a friend of our own Captain Wurmbrand, and it is a great pity Wurmbrand is away.

Glad you saw and liked Lysaght.  He has left in our house a most cheerful and pleasing memory, as a good, pleasant, brisk fellow with good health and brains, and who enjoys himself and makes other people happy.  I am glad he gave you a good report of our surroundings and way of life; but I knew he would, for I believe he had a glorious time—and gave one.

I am on fair terms with the two Treaty officials, though all such intimacies are precarious; with the consuls, I need not say, my position is deplorable.  The President (Herr Emil Schmidt) is a rather dreamy man, whom I like.  Lloyd, Graham and I go to breakfast with him to-morrow; the next day the whole party of us lunch on theCuraçoaand go in the evening to aBierabendat Dr. Funk’s.  We are getting up a paper-chase for the following week with some of the young German clerks, and have in view a sort of child’s party for grown-up persons with kissing games, etc., here at Vailima.  Such is the gay scene in which we move.  Now I have done something, though not as much as I wanted, to give you an idea of how we are getting on, and I am keenly conscious that there are other letters to do before the mail goes.—Yours ever,

R. L. Stevenson.

Aug.7th.

My dear Colvin,—This is to inform you, sir, that on Sunday last (and this is Tuesday) I attained my ideal here, and we had a paper chase in Vailele Plantation, about 15 miles, I take it, from us; and it was all that could be wished.  It is really better fun than following the hounds, since you have to be your own hound, and a precious bad hound I was, following every false scent on the whole course to the bitter end; but I came in 3rd at the last on my little Jack, who stuck to it gallantly, and awoke the praises of some discriminating persons.  (5 + 7 + 2.5 = 14.5 miles; yes, that is the count.)  We had quite the old sensations of exhilaration, discovery, an appeal to a savage instinct; and I felt myself about 17 again, a pleasant experience.  However, it was on the Sabbath Day, and I am now a pariah among the English, as if I needed any increment of unpopularity.  I must not go again; it gives so much unnecessary tribulation to poor people, and, sure, we don’t want to make tribulation.  I have been forbidden to work, and have been instead doing my two or three hours in the plantation every morning.  I only wish somebody would pay me £10 a day for taking care of cacao, and I could leave literature to others.  Certainly, if I have plenty of exercise, and no work, I feel much better; but there is Biles the butcher! him we have always with us.

I do not much like novels, I begin to think, but I am enjoying exceedingly Orme’sHistory of Hindostan, a lovely book in its way, in large quarto, with a quantity of maps, and written in a very lively and solid eighteenth century way, never picturesque except by accident and from a kind of conviction, and a fine sense of order.  No historian I have ever read is so minute; yet he never gives you a word about the people; his interest is entirely limited in the concatenation of events, into which he goes with a lucid, almost superhuman, and wholly ghostly gusto.  ‘By the ghost of a mathematician’ the book might be announced.  A very brave, honest book.

Your letter to hand.

Fact is, I don’t like the picter.  O, it’s a good picture, but if youaskme, you know, I believe, stoutly believe, that mankind, including you, are going mad, I am not in the midst with the other frenzy dancers, so I don’t catch it wholly; and when you show me a thing—and ask me, don’t you know—Well, well!  Glad to get so good an account of theAmateur Emigrant.  Talking of which, I am strong for making a volume out of selections from the South Sea letters; I read over again the King of Apemama, and it is good in spite of your teeth, and a real curiosity, a thing that can never be seen again, and the group is annexed and Tembinoka dead.  I wonder, couldn’t you send out to me thefirstfive Butaritari letters and the Low Archipelago ones (both of which I have lost or mislaid) and I can chop out a perfectly fair volume of what I wish to be preserved.  It can keep for the last of the series.

Travels and Excursions, vol.II.Should it not include a paper on S. F. from theMag. of Art?  The A. E., the New Pacific capital, the Old ditto.Silver. Squat.This would give all my works on the States; and though it ain’t very good, it’s not so very bad.Travels and Excursions, vol.III., to be these resuscitated letters—Miscellanies, vol.II.—comme vous voudrez,cher monsieur!

Monday, Aug. 13th.

I have a sudden call to go up the coast and must hurry up with my information.  There has suddenly come to our naval commanders the need of action, they’re away up the coast bombarding the Atua rebels.  All morning on Saturday the sound of the bombardment of Lotuanu’u kept us uneasy.  To-day again the big guns have been sounding further along the coast.

To-morrow morning early I am off up the coast myself.  Therefore you must allow me to break off here without further ceremony.—Yours ever,

Robert Louis Stevenson.

Vailima, 1894.

My dear Colvin,—This must be a very measly letter.  I have been trying hard to get along withSt. Ives.  I should now lay it aside for a year and I daresay I should make something of it after all.  Instead of that, I have to kick against the pricks, and break myself, and spoil the book, if there were anything to spoil, which I am far from saying.  I’m as sick of the thing as ever any one can be; it’s a rudderless hulk; it’s a pagoda, and you can just feel—or I can feel—that it might have been a pleasant story, if it had been only blessed at baptism.

Our politics have gone on fairly well, but the result is still doubtful.

Sept.10th.

I know I have something else to say to you, but unfortunately I awoke this morning with collywobbles, and had to take a small dose of laudanum with the usual consequences of dry throat, intoxicated legs, partial madness and total imbecility; and for the life of me I cannot remember what it is.  I have likewise mislaid your letter amongst the accumulations on my table, not that there was anything in it.  Altogether I am in a poor state.  I forgot to tell Baxter that the dummy had turned up and is a fine, personable-looking volume and very good reading.  Please communicate this to him.

I have just remembered an incident that I really must not let pass.  You have heard a great deal more than you wanted about our political prisoners.  Well, one day, about a fortnight ago, the last of them was set free—Old Poè, whom I think I must have mentioned to you, the father-in-law of my cook, was one that I had had a great deal of trouble with.  I had taken the doctor to see him, got him out on sick leave, and when he was put back again gave bail for him.  I must not forget that my wife ran away with him out of the prison on the doctor’s orders and with the complicity of our friend the gaoler, who really and truly got the sack for the exploit.  As soon as he was finally liberated, Poè called a meeting of his fellow-prisoners.  All Sunday they were debating what they were to do, and on Monday morning I got an obscure hint from Talolo that I must expect visitors during the day who were coming to consult me.  These consultations I am now very well used to, and seeing first, that I generally don’t know what to advise, and second that they sometimes don’t take my advice—though in some notable cases they have taken it, generally to my own wonder with pretty good results—I am not very fond of these calls.  They minister to a sense of dignity, but not peace of mind, and consume interminable time always in the morning too, when I can’t afford it.  However, this was to be a new sort of consultation.  Up came Poè and some eight other chiefs, squatted in a big circle around the old dining-room floor, now the smoking-room.  And the family, being represented by Lloyd, Graham, Belle, Austin and myself, proceeded to exchange the necessary courtesies.  Then their talking man began.  He said that they had been in prison, that I had always taken an interest in them, that they had now been set at liberty without condition, whereas some of the other chiefs who had been liberated before them were still under bond to work upon the roads, and that this had set them considering what they might do to testify their gratitude.  They had therefore agreed to work upon my road as a free gift.  They went on to explain that it was only to be on my road, on the branch that joins my house with the public way.

Now I was very much gratified at this compliment, although (to one used to natives) it seemed rather a hollow one.  It meant only that I should have to lay out a good deal of money on tools and food and to give wages under the guise of presents to some workmen who were most of them old and in ill-health.  Conceive how much I was surprised and touched when I heard the whole scheme explained to me.  They were to return to their provinces, and collect their families; some of the young men were to live in Apia with a boat, and ply up and down the coast to A’ana and A’tua (our own Tuamasaga being quite drained of resources) in order to supply the working squad with food.  Tools they did ask for, but it was especially mentioned that I was to make no presents.  In short, the whole of this little ‘presentation’ to me had been planned with a good deal more consideration than goes usually with a native campaign.

(I sat on the opposite side of the circle to the talking man.  His face was quite calm and high-bred as he went through the usual Samoan expressions of politeness and compliment, but when he came on to the object of their visit, on their love and gratitude to Tusitala, how his name was always in their prayers, and his goodness to them when they had no other friend, was their most cherished memory, he warmed up to real, burning, genuine feeling.  I had never seen the Samoan mask of reserve laid aside before, and it touched me more than anything else.A.M.)

This morning as ever was, bright and early up came the whole gang of them, a lot of sturdy, common-looking lads they seemed to be for the most part, and fell to on my new road.  Old Poè was in the highest of good spirits, and looked better in health than he has done any time in two years, being positively rejuvenated by the success of his scheme.  He jested as he served out the new tools, and I am sorry to say damned the Government up hill and down dale, probably with a view to show off his position as a friend of the family before his work-boys.  Now, whether or not their impulse will last them through the road does not matter to me one hair.  It is the fact that they have attempted it, that they have volunteered and are now really trying to execute a thing that was never before heard of in Samoa.  Think of it!  It is road-making—the most fruitful cause (after taxes) of all rebellions in Samoa, a thing to which they could not be wiled with money nor driven by punishment.  It does give me a sense of having done something in Samoa after all.

Now there’s one long story for you about ‘my blacks.’—Yours ever,

Robert Louis Stevenson.

Vailima,Samoa,Oct.6th, 1894.

My dear Colvin,—We have had quite an interesting month and mostly in consideration of that road which I think I told you was about to be made.  It was made without a hitch, though I confess I was considerably surprised.  When they got through, I wrote a speech to them, sent it down to a Missionary to be translated, and invited the lot to a feast.  I thought a good deal of this feast.  The occasion was really interesting.  I wanted to pitch it in hot.  And I wished to have as many influential witnesses present as possible.  Well, as it drew towards the day I had nothing but refusals.  Everybody supposed it was to be a political occasion, that I had made a hive of rebels up here, and was going to push for new hostilities.

The Amanuensis has been ill, and after the above trial petered out.  I must return to my own, lone Waverley.  The captain refused, telling me why; and at last I had to beat up for people almost with prayers.  However, I got a good lot, as you will see by the accompanying newspaper report.  The road contained this inscription, drawn up by the chiefs themselves:

‘The Road of Gratitude.’

‘The Road of Gratitude.’

‘Considering the great love of Tusitala in his loving care of us in our distress in the prison, we have therefore prepared a splendid gift.  It shall never be muddy, it shall endure for ever, this road that we have dug.’  This the newspaper reporter could not give, not knowing any Samoan.  The same reason explains his references to Seumanutafa’s speech, which was not long andwasimportant, for it was a speech of courtesy and forgiveness to his former enemies.  It was very much applauded.  Secondly, it was not Poè, it was Mataafã (don’t confuse with Mataafa) who spoke for the prisoners.  Otherwise it is extremely correct.

I beg your pardon for so much upon my aboriginals.  Even you must sympathise with me in this unheard-of compliment, and my having been able to deliver so severe a sermon with acceptance.  It remains a nice point of conscience what I should wish done in the matter.  I think this meeting, its immediate results, and the terms of what I said to them, desirable to be known.  It will do a little justice to me, who have not had too much justice done me.  At the same time, to send this report to the papers is truly an act of self-advertisement, and I dislike the thought.  Query, in a man who has been so much calumniated, is that not justifiable?  I do not know; be my judge.  Mankind is too complicated for me; even myself.  Do I wish to advertise?  I think I do, God help me!  I have had hard times here, as every man must have who mixes up with public business; and I bemoan myself, knowing that all I have done has been in the interest of peace and good government; and having once delivered my mind, I would like it, I think, to be made public.  But the other part of meregimbs.

I know I am at a climacteric for all men who live by their wits, so I do not despair.  But the truth is I am pretty nearly useless at literature, and I will ask you to spareSt. Iveswhen it goes to you; it is a sort ofCount Robert of Paris.  But I hope rather aDombey and Son, to be succeeded byOur Mutual FriendandGreat ExpectationsandA Tale of Two Cities.  No toil has been spared over the ungrateful canvas; and itwill notcome together, and I must live, and my family.  Were it not for my health, which made it impossible, I could not find it in my heart to forgive myself that I did not stick to an honest, common-place trade when I was young, which might have now supported me during these ill years.  But do not suppose me to be down in anything else; only, for the nonce, my skill deserts me, such as it is, or was.  It was a very little dose of inspiration, and a pretty little trick of style, long lost, improved by the most heroic industry.  So far, I have managed to please the journalists.  But I am a fictitious article and have long known it.  I am read by journalists, by my fellow-novelists, and by boys; with these,incipit et explicitmy vogue.  Good thing anyway! for it seems to have sold the Edition.  And I look forward confidently to an aftermath; I do not think my health can be so hugely improved, without some subsequent improvement in my brains.  Though, of course, there is the possibility that literature is a morbid secretion, and abhors health!  I do not think it is possible to have fewer illusions than I.  I sometimes wish I had more.  They are amusing.  But I cannot take myself seriously as an artist; the limitations are so obvious.  I did take myself seriously as a workman of old, but my practice has fallen off.  I am now an idler and cumberer of the ground; it may be excused to me perhaps by twenty years of industry and ill-health, which have taken the cream off the milk.

As I was writing this last sentence, I heard the strident rain drawing near across the forest, and by the time I was come to the word ‘cream’ it burst upon my roof, and has since redoubled, and roared upon it.  A very welcome change.  All smells of the good wet earth, sweetly, with a kind of Highland touch; the crystal rods of the shower, as I look up, have drawn their criss-cross over everything; and a gentle and very welcome coolness comes up around me in little draughts, blessed draughts, not chilling, only equalising the temperature.  Now the rain is off in this spot, but I hear it roaring still in the nigh neighbourhood—and that moment, I was driven from the verandah by random rain drops, spitting at me through the Japanese blinds.  These are not tears with which the page is spotted!  Now the windows stream, the roof reverberates.  It is good; it answers something which is in my heart; I know not what; old memories of the wet moorland belike.

Well, it has blown by again, and I am in my place once more, with an accompaniment of perpetual dripping on the verandah—and very much inclined for a chat.  The exact subject I do not know!  It will be bitter at least, and that is strange, for my attitude is essentiallynotbitter, but I have come into these days when a man sees above all the seamy side, and I have dwelt some time in a small place where he has an opportunity of reading little motives that he would miss in the great world, and indeed, to-day, I am almost ready to call the world an error.  Because?  Because I have not drugged myself with successful work, and there are all kinds of trifles buzzing in my ear, unfriendly trifles, from the least to the—well, to the pretty big.  All these that touch me are Pretty Big; and yet none touch me in the least, if rightly looked at, except the one eternal burthen to go on making an income.  If I could find a place where I could lie down and give up for (say) two years, and allow the sainted public to support me, if it were a lunatic asylum, wouldn’t I go, just!  But we can’t have both extremes at once, worse luck!  I should like to put my savings into a proprietarian investment, and retire in the meanwhile into a communistic retreat, which is double-dealing.  But you men with salaries don’t know how a family weighs on a fellow’s mind.

I hear the article in next week’sHeraldis to be a great affair, and all the officials who came to me the other day are to be attacked!  This is the unpleasant side of being (without a salary) in public life; I will leave anyone to judge if my speech was well intended, and calculated to do good.  It was even daring—I assure you one of the chiefs looked like a fiend at my description of Samoan warfare.  Your warning was not needed; we are all determined tokeep the peaceand tohold our peace.  I know, my dear fellow, how remote all this sounds!  Kindly pardon your friend.  I have my life to live here; these interests are for me immediate; and if I do not write of them, I might as soon not write at all.  There is the difficulty in a distant correspondence.  It is perhaps easy for me to enter into and understand your interests; I own it is difficult for you; but you must just wade through them for friendship’s sake, and try to find tolerable what is vital for your friend.  I cannot forbear challenging you to it, as to intellectual lists.  It is the proof of intelligence, the proof of not being a barbarian, to be able to enter into something outside of oneself, something that does not touch one’s next neighbour in the city omnibus.

Good-bye, my lord.  May your race continue and you flourish—Yours ever,

Tusitala.

Thetenor of these last letters of Stevenson’s to me, and of others written to several of his friends at the same time, seemed to give just cause for anxiety.  Indeed, as the reader will have perceived, a gradual change had during the past months been coming over the tone of his correspondence.  It was not like him to be sensitive to a rough word in a friendly review, nor to recur with so much feeling to my unlucky complaint, quickly regretted and withdrawn, as to his absorption in native affairs and local interests.  To judge by these letters, his old invincible spirit of inward cheerfulness was beginning to give way to moods of depression and overstrained feeling; although to those about him, it seems, his charming habitual sweetness and gaiety of temper were undiminished.  Again, it was a new thing in his life that he should thus painfully feel the strain of literary work, at almost all other times his chief delight and pastime, and should express the longing to lay it down.  His friend Mr. Charles Baxter and I at once telegraphed to him, as the success of the Edinburgh Edition enabled us to do, in terms intended to ease his mind andto induce him to take the rest of which he seemed so urgently in need.  It seems doubtful if our words were fully understood: it is more doubtful still if that ever-shaping mind had retained any capacity for rest, except, as he had himself foretold, the rest of the grave.  At any rate he took none, but on receipt of our message only turned to his old expedient, a change of labour.  He gave up for a while the attempt to finishSt. Ives; a task as to which I may say that he had no occasion to write so despondingly, for as a tale of adventure, manners, and the road, which is all it was meant to be, it will be found a very spirited and entertaining piece, lacking, indeed, the dénouement, and containing a chapter or two which the author would doubtless have cancelled or recast, but others which are in almost his happiest manner of invention and narrative.  He gave this up, and turned to a more arduous theme, the tragic story of the Scottish moorlands, in which the varieties and the strength of border character were to be illustrated in the Four Brothers of Cauldstaneslap, and the Hanging Judge was to be called upon, like Brutus, to condemn his son, and the two Kirsties, younger and elder, were to embody one the wavering and the other the heroic soul of woman.

On this theme, which had already been working in his mind for some years, he felt his inspiration return, and laboured during the month of November and the first days of December atthe full pitch of his powers and in the conscious happiness of their exercise.  About the same time various external circumstances occurred to give him pleasure.  The incident of the road-making, as the reader has seen, had brought home to him as nothing else could have done the sense of the love and gratitude he had won from the island people and their chiefs, and of the power he was able to exercise on them for their good.  Soon afterwards, the anniversaries of his own birthday and of the American thanksgiving feast brought evidences hardly less welcome, after so much contention and annoyance as the island affairs and politics had involved him in, of the honour and affection in which he was held by all that was best in the white community.  By each succeeding mail came stronger proofs from home of the manner in which men of letters of the younger generation had come to regard him as their master, their literary conscience and example, and above all their friend.  Deepest, perhaps, of all lay that pleasure of feeling himself to be working once more at his best.  Of the many and various gifts of this brilliant spirit—adventurer, observer, humorist, moralist, essayist, poet, critic, and romancer—of all his many and various gifts, the master gift was assuredly the creative, the gift of human and historical imagination.  It was not in vain that his islanders called him Tusitala.  Teller of tales he had been, first and foremost, from his childhood; seer into thehearts and fates of men and women he was growing to be more and more.  The time was now ripe—had only the strength sufficed—for his career as a creative writer to enter upon a new and ampler phase.  The fragment on which he wrought during the last month of his life gives to my mind (as it did to his own) for the first time the full measure of his powers; and if in the literature of romance there is to be found work more masterly, of more piercing human insight or more concentrated imaginative vision and beauty, I do not know it.

But to enter on such a task under such conditions was of all his adventures the most adventurous.  The Pacific climate had brought him, as we have seen, a renewal for some years of nervous energy and joy in living, but it may be doubted if that climate is ever truly and in the long run restorative to men of northern blood.  At any rate it demands as a condition of health some measure of repose, and to repose he had, here as elsewhere, been a stranger.  He entered upon his new labour, taxing alike to heart and mind, with all the fibres of his brain long strained by unremitting toil in the tropic heats he loved.  Readers will remember the gallant doctrine of his early essay.  ‘By all means begin your folio; even if the doctor does not give you a year, even if he hesitates about a month, make one brave push, and see what can be accomplished in a week.  It is not only in finished undertakingsthat we ought to honour useful labour.  A spirit goes out of the man who means execution, which outlives the most untimely end.’  In a temper truly accordant with this doctrine he applied himself to his new task, and before it was fully half accomplished the doom so long foreshadowed and so little feared had overtaken him; he had died as he would have desired to die, and fallen smiling in the midst of the battle.  That he was more or less distinctly aware of the imminence of the blow we may gather from the tenor of some of his letters written in these weeks.  On the last day of his life, after a morning of happy work and pleasant correspondence, he was seen gazing long and wistfully at the mountain summit which he had chosen to be his burial-place.  Towards the evening of the same day, he was talking gaily with his wife, and trying to reassure her under the sense of coming calamity which oppressed her, when the sudden rupture of a blood-vessel in the brain laid him, almost in a moment, unconscious at her feet; and before two hours were over he had passed away.  To the English-speaking world he has left behind a treasure which it would be vain as yet to attempt to estimate; to the profession of letters one of the most ennobling and inspiring of examples; and to his friends an image of the memory more vivid and more dear than are the presences of almost any of the living.

Address to the Chiefs on the opening of the Road of Gratitude, Oct. 1894.

Mr. Stevensonsaid: ‘We are met together to-day to celebrate an event and to do honour to certain chiefs, my friends,—Lelei, Mataafa, Salevao, Poè, Teleso, Tupuola Lotofaga, Tupuola Amaile, Muliaiga, Ifopo, and Fatialofa.  You are all aware in some degree of what has happened.  You know these chiefs to have been prisoners; you perhaps know that during the term of their confinement, I had it in my power to do them certain favours.  One thing some of you cannot know, that they were immediately repaid by answering attentions.  They were liberated by the new administration; by the King, and the Chief Justice, and the Ta’its’ifono, who are here amongst us to-day, and to whom we all desire to tender our renewed and perpetual gratitude for that favour.  As soon as they were free men—owing no man anything—instead of going home to their own places and families, they came to me; they offered to do this work for me as a free gift, without hire, without supplies, and I was tempted at first to refuse their offer.  I knew the country to be poor, I knew famine threatening; I knew their families long disorganised for want of supervision.  Yet I accepted,because I thought the lesson of that road might be more useful to Samoa than a thousand breadfruit trees; and because to myself it was an exquisite pleasure to receive that which was so handsomely offered.  It is now done; you have trod it to-day in coming hither.  It has been made for me by chiefs; some of them old, some sick, all newly delivered from a harassing confinement, and in spite of weather unusually hot and insalubrious.  I have seen these chiefs labour valiantly with their own hands upon the work, and I have set up over it, now that it is finished, the name of ‘The Road of Gratitude’ (the road of loving hearts) and the names of those that built it.  ‘In perpetuam memoriam,’ we say and speak idly.  At least so long as my own life shall be spared, it shall be here perpetuated; partly for my pleasure and in my gratitude; partly for others; to continually publish the lesson of this road.’

Addressing himself to the chiefs, Mr. Stevenson then said:—

‘I will tell you, Chiefs, that, when I saw you working on that road, my heart grew warm; not with gratitude only, but with hope.  It seemed to me that I read the promise of something good for Samoa; it seemed to me, as I looked at you, that you were a company of warriors in a battle, fighting for the defence of our common country against all aggression.  For there is a time to fight, and a time to dig.  You Samoans may fight, you may conquer twenty times, and thirty times, and all will be in vain.  There is but one way to defend Samoa.  Hear it before it is too late.  It is to make roads, and gardens, and care for your trees, and sell their produce wisely, and, in one word, to occupy and use your country.  If you do not others will.’

The speaker then referred to the parable of the ‘Talents,’ Matt. xxv. 14–30, and continuing, impressively asked: ‘What are you doing with your talent, Samoa?  Your three talents, Savaii, Upolu, and Tutuila?  Have you buried it in a napkin?  Not Upolu at least.  You have rather given it out to be trodden under feet of swine: and the swine cut down food trees and burn houses, according to the nature of swine, or of that much worse animal, foolish man, acting according to his folly.  “Thou knewest that I reap where I sowed not, and gather where I have not strawed.”  But God has both sown and strawed for you here in Samoa; He has given you a rich soil, a splendid sur copious rain; all is ready to your hand, half done.  And I repeat to you that thing which is sure: if you do not occupy and use your country, others will.  It will not continue to be yours or your childrens, if you occupy it for nothing.  You and your children will in that case be cast out into outer darkness, where shall be weeping and gnashing of teeth; for that is the law of God which passeth not away.  I who speak to you have seen these things.  I have seen them with my eyes—these judgments of God.  I have seen them in Ireland, and I have seen them in the mountains of my own country—Scotland—and my heart was sad.  These were a fine people in the past—brave, gay, faithful, and very much like Samoans, except in one particular, that they were much wiser and better at that business of fighting of which you think so much.  But the time came to them as it now comes to you, and it did not find them ready.  The messenger came into their villages and they did not know him; they were told, as you are told, to use and occupy their country, and they would not hear.And now you may go through great tracts of the land and scarce meet a man or a smoking house, and see nothing but sheep feeding.  The other people that I tell you of have come upon them like a foe in the night, and these are the other people’s sheep who browse upon the foundation of their houses.  To come nearer; and I have seen this judgment in Oahu also.  I have ridden there the whole day along the coast of an island.  Hour after hour went by and I saw the face of no living man except that of the guide who rode with me.  All along that desolate coast, in one bay after another, we saw, still standing, the churches that have been built by the Hawaiians of old.  There must have been many hundreds, many thousands, dwelling there in old times, and worshipping God in these now empty churches.  For to-day they were empty; the doors were closed, the villages had disappeared, the people were dead and gone; only the church stood on like a tombstone over a grave, in the midst of the white men’s sugar fields.  The other people had come and used that country, and the Hawaiians who occupied it for nothing had been swept away, “where is weeping and gnashing of teeth.”

‘I do not speak of this lightly, because I love Samoa and her people.  I love the land, I have chosen it to be my home while I live, and my grave after I am dead; and I love the people, and have chosen them to be my people to live and die with.  And I see that the day is come now of the great battle; of the great and the last opportunity by which it shall be decided, whether you are to pass away like these other races of which I have been speaking, or to stand fast and have your children living on and honouring your memory in the land you received of your fathers.

‘The Land Commission and the Chief Justice will soon have ended their labours.  Much of your land will be restored to you, to do what you can with.  Now is the time the messenger is come into your villages to summon you; the man is come with the measuring rod; the fire is lighted in which you shall be tried; whether you are gold or dross.  Now is the time for the true champions of Samoa to stand forth.  And who is the true champion of Samoa?  It is not the man who blackens his face, and cuts down trees, and kills pigs and wounded men.  It is the man who makes roads, who plants food trees, who gathers harvests, and is a profitable servant before the Lord, using and improving that great talent that has been given him in trust.  That is the brave soldier; that is the true champion; because all things in a country hang together like the links of the anchor cable, one by another: but the anchor itself is industry.

‘There is a friend of most of us, who is far away; not to be forgotten where I am, where Tupuola is, where Poè Lelei, Mataafa, Solevao, Poè Teleso, Tupuola Lotofaga, Tupuolo Amaile, Muliaiga, Ifopo, Fatialofa, Lemusu are.  He knew what I am telling you; no man better.  He saw the day was come when Samoa had to walk in a new path, and to be defended, not only with guns and blackened faces, and the noise of men shouting, but by digging and planting, reaping and sowing.  When he was still here amongst us, he busied himself planting cacao; he was anxious and eager about agriculture and commerce, and spoke and wrote continually; so that when we turn our minds to the same matters, we may tell ourselves that we are still obeying Mataafa.  Ua tautala mai pea o ia ua mamao.

‘I know that I do not speak to idle or foolish hearers.  I speak to those who are not too proud to work for gratitude.  Chiefs!  You have worked for Tusitala, and he thanks you from his heart.  In this, I could wish you could be an example to all Samoa—I wish every chief in these islands would turn to, and work, and build roads, and sow fields, and plant food trees, and educate his children and improve his talents—not for love of Tusitala, but for the love of his brothers, and his children, and the whole body of generations yet unborn.

‘Chiefs!  On this road that you have made many feet shall follow.  The Romans were the bravest and greatest of people! mighty men of their hands, glorious fighters and conquerors.  To this day in Europe you may go through parts of the country where all is marsh and bush, and perhaps after struggling through a thicket, you shall come forth upon an ancient road, solid and useful as the day it was made.  You shall see men and women bearing their burdens along that even way, and you may tell yourself that it was built for them perhaps fifteen hundred years before,—perhaps before the coming of Christ,—by the Romans.  And the people still remember and bless them for that convenience, and say to one another, that as the Romans were the bravest men to fight, so they were the best at building roads.

‘Chiefs!  Our road is not built to last a thousand years, yet in a sense it is.  When a road is once built, it is a strange thing how it collects traffic, how every year as it goes on, more and more people are found to walk thereon, and others are raised up to repair and perpetuate it, and keep it alive; so that perhaps eventhis road of ours may, from reparation to reparation, continue to exist and be useful hundreds and hundreds of years after we are mingled in the dust.  And it is my hope that our far-away descendants may remember and bless those who laboured for them to-day.’


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