Pepole looking at old towerTHE TOWER OF THE OLD CATHEDRAL
THE TOWER OF THE OLD CATHEDRAL
Their generous dinner disposed of, Vasco suggested that they immediately begin the exploration of the old city. This was agreed to by the others, and under Juan's guidance they at once made their way into the dense jungle which had grown up about the ruins.
Neither of the Panama boys was very romantic in disposition, but Vasco could not help thinking of the pirates of whom Harlan had told,—how they had trod this very ground, and how back and forth Spaniards and buccaneers had swept in bloody battle. All the military ardour which had been born in his breast was aroused, and he even caught himself wishing that he had been there to help defend the city. Little did he realize howmuch less enchanting was the experience than the story.
It is not possible to describe all that the boys saw. As they wandered back and forth they imagined that here was a market-place, and there was the residence of some rich old Spanish trader. Over yonder was all that remained of a bishop's palace, and near by may have been the governor's abode.
The old cathedral was easily identified by the tower which still stands. Within its walls the boys went and gazed with awe upon the ancient altar on which Pizarro, the adventurous explorer and conqueror, had left an offering to the Holy Virgin before starting on his voyage to Peru.
Time passed swiftly, however, and it was Enrique who discovered that the sun was fast setting.
"We must soon be starting," he said to Vasco, "if we are to get home before dark."
Harlan, who overheard what Enrique said, was anxious to start immediately, for he knew his mother would be worried if he were late.
So bidding Juan good-bye and thanking him profusely for his kindness to them, the boys took up their homeward march across the old bridge and along the coast. Not so much time was spent on the way as in the morning, for now they were intent only on getting home.
The boat was found safely fast where they had left it, and, quickly spreading the sail, they were soon speeding across the blue waters of the bay. The sail was a delightful one, the cool breeze fanning their cheeks while the slanting rays of the sun cast a glory over the scene which subdued their boyish spirits and filled them with awe as they gazed about them.
Before long, however, they arrived at the water-front of the city. Here was a busy, bustling scene. A great steamer from San Francisco had arrived during the day, and agang of negro labourers was busily transferring the freight from its capacious hold to the cars which stood alongside on the dock. On the other side of the Isthmus the process would have to be repeated in a reverse manner. The freight would be unloaded from the cars and shipped to New York, New Orleans, Liverpool, and other ports of the United States and Europe.
At the same time numerous small boats were drawn up near the beach, discharging fish, poultry, fruit, and various cargoes. Here the boys saw a sight which was new even to Vasco, though he had seen about everything that went on in Panama. A small schooner from up the coast had brought in a cargo of live pigs for the Panama market. The vessel was not made fast to a wharf and the pigs taken out over a gangplank, but it was moored as near the beach as safety would allow. Then the pigs were dumped overboard and compelledto swim for land, where they were caught. Later they would be slaughtered and their carcasses exposed for sale in the market-place.
The sight of the squealing, swimming pigs was very amusing to Vasco and Harlan, and they watched with glee the unloading of the whole boat-load before they went ashore.
"What queer-looking pigs those are!" said Harlan.
"Why?" Vasco asked.
"See how lean they are, and what long snouts they have!"
"Well, isn't that the way all pigs look?"
"Not up in my country," replied Harlan. "Those that I have seen were so fat that they could hardly move. These pigs are not at all like them; though I have heard that in the Southern States many of the wild hogs are thin and long-legged."
Soon the boys bade each other good night,and Vasco went to his home ready for the supper his mother had prepared for him. Not long afterward he went to bed, thoroughly tired, but very much pleased with his day's outing. If he dreamed at all that night there must have appeared a strange mixture of Spaniards and pirates and Indians and ruins and—pigs!
"Vasco," called his mother to him early one morning a few days later, "I want you to get up and go to market for me."
"Oh, dear, I don't want to get up now," said Vasco.
"No matter," replied his mother, "you'll want something to eat by and by, so hurry up."
Vasco knew it was no use to protest further, and, as the process of dressing was a very short one with him, he soon was ready to do his mother's errand.
"What do you want me to get this morning?" he asked.
"I want you to get some potatoes and peasand rice and half a yard of beef," his mother replied, as she handed him a basket.
It sounds strange to hear about a yard of beef, doesn't it? Vasco did not think so, though, for in Panama beef, instead of being sold by the pound, is often cut into long strips and sold by the yard.
By the time Vasco was all ready to start his sister Inez was up.
"May I go with you?" she asked.
"Of course, if you want to. Come on."
So together they trotted out of the house and off to market.
Inez looked about her with wide-open eyes, for her visits to the market, especially in the early morning, had been very rare.
"See what a lot of donkeys standing over there," said the little girl, pointing across the street.
"Yes; they belong to the fruit-sellers you see here. The animals stand there all daylong, and at night, when their masters and mistresses have sold all their stock, they ride home on the backs of the donkeys. Some of them go many miles into the country, too."
But other sights soon attracted Inez's attention, and the donkeys were forgotten.
Many of the buyers were women cooks dressed in red and yellow and green and bright colours of all sorts. They made the place look very brilliant.
Soon, however, Vasco had done his errands and with Inez hurried home for breakfast.
Sometimes, in the evening, Vasco would go out with his mother and Inez and little Carlos.
On Sunday evenings, as you have already learned, they went to the plaza and listened with rapt attention to the band concert.
Quite often, on these occasions, Vasco's father, the lieutenant, would have a leave of absence from his military duties, and would go with his family. Then Vasco was supremelyhappy, for he was extremely proud of the gorgeous uniform which his father wore, and felt as if some of the military glory were reflected upon him.
Since Panama had become an independent nation, much patriotic music had been played at these concerts, and the large crowds were always enthusiastic.
On one Sunday evening, soon after the boy's visit to Old Panama, all the members of the family except little Carlos were listening to Vasco's tales of the sights he had seen in the old city. He also was repeating the story of the buccaneers that Harlan had told him.
Lieutenant Barretas was especially interested in what Vasco said about the treasure buried amid the ancient ruins.
"Our ancestors," he said to his son, "were not the only ones who left their wealth buried in the ground about here. The pirates who so cruelly robbed the early settlers of thecountry often hid their ill-gotten gains in caves in the sand on the shore or upon some barren island. Then they sailed away, and sometimes never returned to secure their treasure. If the stories were to be believed, all we need to do to obtain untold wealth is to take picks and spades and turn up the earth along the coast of our country or on the islands near its shores.
"Years ago a good many people actually spent much time searching for hidden gold. I remember hearing my grandfather tell of a neighbour who formed one of a party that went to Cocos Island for such a purpose.
"It seems that many years before a dying pirate had confided to an old countryman, a carpenter by trade, that a vast store of gold was buried on Cocos Island."
"I have heard of that place," interrupted Vasco. "Some of the sailors whom Enrique and I know have mentioned it. The island isseveral hundred miles from Panama, and there are no people living on it."
"That is true," said the lieutenant. "Well, this carpenter was nearly mad with joy at the information the dying pirate gave him. He thought surely that his fortune was made. No more hard work for him! All he needed to do was to dig up the treasure, and for the rest of his life enjoy ease and freedom from care."
"I don't much blame him, father, do you?" asked Vasco.
"I can't say that I do," was the reply. "I'll admit I wouldn't mind digging up a pot or two of gold myself, though I don't believe that we take so much stock in the stories of hidden wealth as our fathers and grandfathers did.
"With this carpenter, however, it was a pretty serious question how he was going to get to Cocos Island and secure the treasure.He knew the island was a desert place and far from shore. It would be necessary to have a ship, a good store of provisions, and tools with which to do the digging, to say nothing of a company of men to help him. All this required much money, and our poor carpenter had none. But he was possessed of a large amount of courage and perseverance, and he managed after a time to enlist the help of men of means, who furnished the capital for the expedition.
"Many hardships were endured by the little band of men who made up the carpenter's company, but they finally arrived at the island.
"The pirate had not made very clear the exact location of the hidden gold, and as the island was covered with a dense growth of trees and vines, the search was a heartless task from the beginning. The men, however, got to work, and with picks and spadesand gunpowder managed to uncover a large part of the island."
"And did they find the gold?" asked Vasco, his face now aglow with excitement.
"Not any," replied his father. "Several months they dug and blasted, but all in vain. No sign of chest, box, silver, or gold was found. Day after day the search continued. Finally the provisions became exhausted, the men grew disheartened, and a weary, disappointed company of men returned to Panama."
Just as Vasco's father finished his story a strange rumbling noise was heard. You would have wondered what it was, and perhaps have been a little frightened. The Barretas family, however, knew in a moment what had happened.
"An earthquake!" cried Vasco.
Even as he spoke two or three tiles fell from the roof into the street. A startling clatter breaking the stillness of the eveningproved that the tiles had been shaken loose from neighbouring houses, also.
"We'd better get out quick," cried the lieutenant, and he made a dash for the door.
Vasco and his mother were more thoughtful about the younger children, and, while the mother rushed into the bedroom after Carlos, Vasco took Inez by the arm and followed closely on his father's heels.
In a moment the whole family was in the street.
"Get away from the house!" shouted Vasco's father. "The tiles are likely to fall upon you if you don't."
To the middle of the street they all dashed, where they were quickly surrounded by a noisy, chattering mob of men, women, and children.
Again the earth seemed to shake and to shiver, and the shrieks and moans of frightened women and children were accompaniedby the sound of more falling tiles and cracking timbers.
The experience was truly fearful, even to the older and wiser ones. The terror of the young children was something to excite pity in the most hardened breast. It was only by the utmost efforts and constant reassurance that no harm would come to her that Vasco was able to quiet his sister Inez. Even after her cries had become stilled she trembled like a leaf.
Fortunately the shock was a light one and the shaking and trembling of the earth were soon over. Lieutenant Barretas and his family returned within their house none the worse for the adventure, and went to bed, but many of their neighbours lingered in the street for hours—some even until daylight, when the terror of the night was dissipated by the cheerful rays of the rising sun.
The earthquake had been a mild one compared with some instances of previous years.In September, 1882, the city had been visited in the night by a terrible shock. The darkness always adds intensely to the terror of the people. On this occasion men and women of all classes—high and low—had rushed to the street. Great hotels were emptied in a few moments, many guests not stopping even to put on clothing.
The great plaza was one vast mass of shouting, crying people, while the earth heaved and the air quivered as it had never done in the memory of the inhabitants. Many houses were ruined, much property destroyed, and it is said that some even died from fright.
At daybreak new courage revived the hearts of the people, but for several nights the plaza was occupied by tents and all sorts of rude shelters for thousands who dared not sleep in their houses.
A fewdays after the earthquake, early in the forenoon, there came a rap at the door of Vasco's home. Inez, always alert, ran to the door, and, throwing it open, saw Harlan Andrews standing there.
"Good morning, Inez," said the young American.
Inez had become quite well acquainted with Harlan because of his many visits to Vasco, and was always glad to see him. So she gave a cheerful smile and hearty response to his greeting, and invited him to enter.
"Is Vasco at home?" asked Harlan, as he came into the living-room.
"Yes, he is out in the courtyard. If you will sit down I will call him."
Harlan thought he was quite fortunate to find Vasco. Generally at this time of day he was out upon the streets with other boys of his age.
In a moment Vasco came into the house, and, boylike, Harlan stated his errand without any preliminary conversation.
"Father is going to make a trip to Colon in connection with his canal work, and will spend some time on the way, particularly at the Culebra cut. Perhaps, too, he will go up the Chagres River to the place where it is proposed to build the big dam. He is going to take me with him, and says I may invite you to go along."
"Oh, that will be fine!" exclaimed Vasco, and he fairly jumped up and down with glee. In fact, he was so overwhelmed by the thought of the proposed journey that he nearly forgot to thank Harlan for the invitation. When he did come to his senses, his gratitude was profuse,and his tongue could not begin to express his thoughts.
Then again, after a few moments, he remembered that this trip was for more than a day, perhaps for more than a week, and it might be necessary to consult his parents before accepting the invitation. At once he turned to his mother, who had overheard all the conversation.
"Are you willing I should go with Harlan?" Vasco inquired.
For a moment his mother did not reply, and the boy was very anxious for fear that when she did give her answer it might not be favourable.
Finally the señora said, "If your father has no objection, I think I am willing to let you go."
"Then I'll go now to ask him. Come on, Harlan," said Vasco.
The lieutenant was stationed in the city atthis time, so the boys had not far to go. Vasco did not anticipate any great difficulty in gaining his father's consent to the journey. As the result proved, his hopes were well founded, for Lieutenant Barretas was quite willing his son should go anywhere, provided he was in Mr. Andrews's care.
"It's all right, then," said Harlan when the matter was decided. "Meet me at the railway station next Monday morning at eight o'clock." This was Friday.
For Vasco, the two days between Friday and Monday passed—oh, so slowly! It seemed as if they would never go by!
Meanwhile, his mother gave him a bit of information which later turned out to be of value. "You say you may go up the Chagres River?" she asked her son.
"Yes, so Harlan told me," was Vasco's reply.
"I have never told you that I have abrother living in that part of the country—your Uncle Francisco Herreras. The last I knew of him he had a plantation not far from Palo Grande. I hope, if you go near there, you may be able to call upon him. I am sure he will be very hospitable to you all."
At last Monday morning came. Very early Vasco awoke, ate the breakfast his mother made ready for him, and long before the hour appointed was ready to start for the railway station. He was so impatient to be on his way that he left home a full hour earlier than was necessary. Consequently, he had to wait a long time at the depot.
But time flies, even for the most impatient lads, and in due time Harlan and his father made their appearance.
"What do you think, Vasco?" said Harlan. "We are going to have a special train!"
"Where is it?" asked Vasco, who saw no sign of anything of that sort in the depot.
"Oh, it's not in here. It's outside in the train-yard. We are going out there to get aboard."
Vasco thought this a little strange, but felt that he could ask no questions. In a moment Mr. Andrews called to the boys to follow him, and led the way outside the station.
Directly they came in sight of an engine, to which was attached a box car and a flat car such as are ordinarily used for freight. On the flat car were fixed several seats, and an awning had been erected as protection from the fierce rays of the sun. In the box car were well-equipped bunks, where the members of the party might sleep at night when better accommodations were wanting.
"This is our special private car," said Harlan. "What do you think of it?"
"I think it will suit me all right," said Vasco.
Mr. Andrews explained to the boys that hewas on a tour of inspection in connection with the canal work, and this train had been placed at his disposal. He was glad, in connection with his work, to give a pleasure trip to the boys. He hoped it might also prove an instructive and beneficial one to them.
While Mr. Andrews had been talking to the boys they all had climbed upon the flat car and taken seats. Then, with a wave of the hand to the engineer, the signal was given, the throttle opened, and the train began its journey.
Slowly it moved until away from the city, but when it had passed out upon the beautiful broad savannahs, or grassy plains, which lie near Panama it moved with greater speed. To Vasco it seemed very fast indeed, though it was far otherwise to Harlan, who had ridden on the rapid express trains in his own country.
As the train drew farther from Panama they came to a more hilly region. In turn theypassed through Corozal, Rio Grande, Miraflores, Pedro Miguel, and Paraiso. Most of these places were small settlements. Near the little railway stations would be seen a few wretched houses. What few inhabitants were in sight appeared to be of native Indian descent and wandered about in scanty clothing, with no apparent occupation.
At Paraiso the train was run on to a side-track.
"We shall have to wait here awhile for the regular passenger-train for Panama City to pass us," said Mr. Andrews.
"How long shall we have to wait?" asked Harlan.
"Oh, I'm sure I don't know. The trains on this road come when they please and go when they get ready. You may as well take it easy till we can go on again."
"How long does it take to run across the Isthmus?" asked Vasco.
"Generally about three hours for the forty-mile trip, but as I just told Harlan, you can't be sure of anything on this road. They ought to give better service, for they carry nearly one hundred thousand people a year."
Fortunately our friends did not have to wait very long, and when they again had a clear track they proceeded on their way.
"It must have been a big job to build this road," said Vasco, as they rode on.
man explaining excavation to man and boy sitting on bench"'THAT SCOOP WILL DIG OUT OF THE MOUNTAIN A TON OF EARTH AT A TIME'"
"'THAT SCOOP WILL DIG OUT OF THE MOUNTAIN A TON OF EARTH AT A TIME'"
"Yes," replied Mr. Andrews, "it was a great triumph of American genius. During its construction multitudes of men were killed by the deadly fever, but finally Chinese labourers were imported and successfully completed the work, though even many of these Oriental coolies died."
The train whirled on through rocky hills and valleys luxuriant with tropical foliage. As it approached Culebra Mountain Vasco's eyes opened wide at the sights he saw. Fromthe main track various spurs were laid, on which stood giant steam-shovels.
Pointing to one of them, Mr. Andrews said: "That scoop will dig out of the mountain a ton of earth at a time. Then it is swung around and its load emptied into a gravel-car. In this manner train-load after train-load is taken from the sides of the mountain each day and hauled away and dumped either into a valley or into the sea at Colon."
Vasco also saw large gangs of men at work on the side of the mountain. Most of them were negroes from Jamaica. As the boys watched them at their labour Harlan said to his friend: "Well, those fellows can't be accused of trying to work themselves out of a job. I reckon they would move livelier than that if they were at work on some of our American railroads."
Atthe Culebra station Mr. Andrews's train stopped. "Now, boys," he said, "it is nearly noon. We will see what we can get for dinner, and then I shall have to leave you to yourselves for the rest of the day. I have considerable business to which I must attend. All I ask is that you keep out of danger and show up at supper-time. We shall sleep in the car to-night and to-morrow go on our way to Colon."
"That will give us the whole afternoon to look about this place, and I think we can manage to see a lot in that time," said Harlan.
"I'm glad we're going to have some dinner first," said Vasco, "for I'm hungry."
"Come on, then," said Mr. Andrews, and he led the way to a large wooden shanty a few rods from the station. The building was dignified with the title of a "hotel," and served as a boarding-place for the American overseers of the gangs of men at work in the Culebra cut. Here the three sat down to a generous meal. There was not much style about it, but Mr. Andrews cared little for that, and certainly the boys were not fussy.
Dinner over, the boys were left to their own devices.
"I tell you what let's do," said Vasco. "We'll climb to the top of Culebra Hill this afternoon. We can get a splendid view of the country, and we can certainly get back in time for supper."
"That suits me," said Harlan.
At once they started. From the level of the railway tracks, the climb at first was up the steep and slippery banks that had been madeby the steam-shovels. Many times the boys lost their foothold and slid backward, only to renew the struggle and clamber upward once more.
As they got higher up their progress was hindered by the dense undergrowth of shrubs and vines, so that they were obliged to make many a turn and twist in their path. In some places they could not get through the bushes, and had to tramp a long way around to gain a few yards toward the summit.
Finally their perseverance was rewarded, and they stood upon the top of the great hill. Such a scene was spread before them as is seldom witnessed. In the immediate foreground far below them they could see the hundreds of men at work. They looked hardly larger than ants and not half so active. Here also they saw the labourers' camp,—a collection of rude shanties closely huddled together.
Looking farther out, the scene was more attractive. Down through the valleys the rich-looking tropical foliage made a picture no artist could reproduce, and even boyish spirits were subdued as Vasco and Harlan gazed about them. In the distance ridge upon ridge of hills arose, adding grandeur to the magnificent view.
Awe-inspiring as was the handiwork of nature spread before them, to these boys the great work which man was here undertaking seemed even more wonderful. The scores of steam-shovels in sight were scooping up tons upon tons of earth every hour. Vasco could hardly believe it when Harlan told him that it would take years to complete the work of cutting through the mountain. The great valleys in the locality would be entirely filled with the earth, and thousands of car-loads were to be hauled to Colon and dumped into the Atlantic.
Little did those early Spanish explorers andEnglish buccaneers who travelled over this country imagine that great ships—many times larger than any they ever dreamed of—would be sailing through this mountain.
Vasco could hardly fancy such a thing now, but Harlan, with sublime confidence in American skill and force, had perfect faith in the early completion of the Panama canal. Certainly here before him was splendid evidence of American purpose.
When the boys had become thoroughly rested after their hard climb, and had concluded that there were no more worlds to conquer in this direction, they began to think of returning to the camp. The declining sun also reminded them that it was time to be on the move. Possibly, also, a vigorous appetite added to Vasco's zeal for the return journey. At any rate, he said to Harlan: "What do you say to a race to the railway station?"
This suggestion suited the American boy,and in a trice they were off,—running, jumping, sliding, tumbling, dodging, twisting, and turning in the race for the foot of the hill. There was just enough danger in it to add interest to the contest.
In the end Vasco won, though Harlan pressed him closely all the way. Several times, indeed, he seemed to gain the lead, his shrewdness and good judgment proving nearly a match for the sturdy limbs and deep breath of his opponent.
The race over, the boys wandered about watching the shifting gravel-trains, the giant steam-shovels in operation, the hundreds of men at work, and toward the close of the day returned to the car.
Here they found Mr. Andrews, and with him went to supper. At an early hour thereafter they turned into their bunks in the "sleeping-car," where, with nets protecting them from hungry mosquitos and otherinsects, they soundly slumbered through the night.
Early in the morning the three travellers were again on their way, for Mr. Andrews was anxious to get to Colon. They did not even go to the "hotel" for breakfast, but ate some canned food which had been brought along in the "sleeper." Taking his meals on a railway train was a novelty for Vasco,—more so than a dinner in the finest Pullman dining-car would have been to Harlan. None the less, Harlan enjoyed the novelty of the situation as much as his Panama friend.
Breakfast eaten, the boys devoted themselves to watching the scenery along the route. The forests through which they passed abounded in all sorts of bird and animal life.
As the train whirled along, the boys caught glimpses of wild turkeys, bright-coloured macaws and parrots, as well as of innumerablesmaller birds. Monkeys were seen darting about amidst the foliage. Once also a drove of peccaries was seen scuttling away through the undergrowth. These little animals resemble the Virginia wild hog in shape, and are black in colour. The natives of Panama kill them for food.
The trees were innumerable in variety. Besides the ordinary oak, cedar, beech, and ash, were seen teak, rosewood, mahogany, and ebony in abundance. When they become more accessible, these will bring fortunes to their possessors.
Vasco called particular attention to the macaw-trees. He said they bore a very palatable fruit about the size of a pear, with a stringy covering and a stone in the centre. In old times the Indians were very fond of it, and recklessly cut down thousands of trees for the sake of the fruit alone. They used the black and very hard wood for arrow-heads.
As the train rolled into Obispo, the travellers got their first glimpse of the Chagres River, which forms such an important link in the construction of the canal.
Alongthe river's bank the train sped. As it approached Matachin Mr. Andrews pointed to a high hill not far away.
"Do you know what hill that is?" he asked Vasco.
"No, sir."
"Well, you ought to, for it is the spot of greatest historic interest in your country. Cerro Gigante, or Big Hill, is its name, and from its summit was gained the first sight of the Pacific Ocean. Do you know who the discoverer of that ocean was?"
"Yes, sir, it was Balboa, who also helped to build the city of Panama. I have heard my father speak of him."
"Balboa's life was full of adventures," saidMr. Andrews, "and included many dramatic incidents, but none equalled in intensity the moment when he first sighted the broad blue Pacific, which he called the 'Sea of the South.' At the head of a little band of tired Spaniards he toiled up that hill. The vision that met his eyes amply repaid him for all the hardships and privations he had suffered—and they had not been few."
Vasco's interest was now thoroughly aroused, and he asked Mr. Andrews to tell him more about Balboa and his adventures.
"Perhaps I do not know very much about Balboa, but I am very glad to tell you what I can.
"If I remember correctly, he was born about 1475 in Spain. So you see he was just coming to young manhood when the wonderful discovery of a new world by Columbus thrilled every Spanish heart.
"Balboa was of noble parentage, though hisfamily had become poor. A few years after the discovery of America he sailed with Bastides and coasted up and down this country.
"At first he was very successful in his ventures, but on account of the sinking of his ship he settled in Santo Domingo, and undertook to make his living by farming. In this he failed. Soon his savings were spent, and he found himself in debt. This was a serious matter for Balboa, as under Spanish law debtors were shown very slight consideration."
"Why didn't he run away?" asked Vasco.
"That is just what he wanted to do," replied Mr. Andrews, "but it was almost impossible to get away from the island unobserved. Finally, however, he made a desperate effort. He placed himself in a cask and caused it to be carried from his farm on board a ship that was ready to sail for South America.
"When well out to sea, he appeared to the captain, who at first was exceedingly angry.The captain relented, however, after he had heard Balboa's story, and allowed the fugitive to remain with him.
"Later, a wealthy friend supplied funds for an expedition of which Balboa was the head. At first he was unsuccessful and results were not promising, but on a visit to the Isthmus much wealth was secured, and Balboa's great success—the discovery of the Pacific—was attained.
"The building of the city of Panama soon followed. It was from that place that Pizarro, one of Balboa's companions, a few years later, sailed for Peru, whence such fabulous wealth was carried back to Spain. You saw in the ruins of the old cathedral the altar where Pizarro offered sacrifice to the Holy Virgin."
Here Mr. Andrews concluded his story, and Harlan added:
"You did not tell Vasco that Balboa made friends with an Indian chief on the Isthmus,and married his daughter. More than that, unlike a lot of Spanish explorers, he really loved his Indian wife and remained true to her—so true, in fact, that he afterward lost his life on her account."
"And was Balboa finally killed, then?" asked Vasco.
"Yes; he was executed by order of a jealous governor of the Isthmus," replied Mr. Andrews.
"That seems strange, after all he had done for his country," said Vasco.
"I know it does," was Mr. Andrews's answer; "but that was the way Spain often dealt with her adventurous explorers. Many of them deserved their fate much more than Balboa, though."
While Mr. Andrews had been telling the story of Balboa, the train continued to roll on. Gorgona, San Pablo, and Tavernilla were passed in succession. Bohio was a specialpoint of interest, for here, as Mr. Andrews told the boys, the canal is to enter the artificial lake to be formed by a great dam. When complete, there will be a broad, deep body of water seven miles in length, affording room for anchorage as well as for navigation.
Gatun was the next place of importance, and not long after the train passed through Monkey Hill, a suburb of Colon, and finally into the city of Colon itself.
Arrivingin Colon, as they did about midday, the boys had little desire to go sightseeing immediately. The weather was too hot and uncomfortable. They ate dinner at a hotel with Mr. Andrews, but it was decided to sleep on board their car every night. It was as comfortable as any place they were likely to find.
As the car was side-tracked upon the railway dock, they had the full benefit of the sea breezes, and during the remainder of that day Vasco stayed upon the car with Harlan, watching the waves roll in from the broad Atlantic.
Colon is situated on the extreme point of land between Limon and Manzanillo Bays.There is really little harbour, and in case of severe storm little protection for shipping.
"Sometimes there are terrible storms here," said Harlan, "when the waves come in with tremendous force."
"I can see along the shore," said Vasco, "where much damage has been done."
"That is not the worst, either," continued Harlan. "During these storms many lives have been lost. It was only a little while ago that one of the most severe of these 'northers' attacked this coast. Father was telling me about it, as he happened to be in Colon at the time.
"Three steamships put to sea for safety and remained away three days. The gunboatDixiealso ran out as quickly as it could to escape the danger. Not a vessel of any kind remained in the harbour except two schooners in the slips close by this station. They were tied by a number of cables at a sufficient distance fromthe piers to prevent damage from the pitching and rolling. They couldn't get away, and rode out the gale.
"Great waves rolled directly into the harbour, breaking over the water-front, and even the streets were filled with water. From a number of houses the people had to get out."
"It doesn't look now as if the sea ever could do such harm, does it?" said Vasco.
"Indeed it does not. It is very calm and gentle this afternoon. Father told me that one of the plans in connection with digging the canal is the building of a big breakwater here."
"If that is done the harbour will be much safer, won't it?" asked Vasco.
"Yes, and the entrance to the canal will be less likely to suffer damage in a storm," said Harlan.
"It looks as if a number of old wrecks were strewn along the shore now," said Vasco, indicating at the time numerous hulks thatappeared just above the surface of the water along the shore.
"Those are relics of the French effort to dig a canal here. Scores of scows were built by the De Lesseps company, and when work was given up they were left to decay and sink."
"Why didn't some one take care of them?" asked Vasco. "They must have cost a lot of money."
"That's one of the questions no one can answer, any more than one can tell why so many costly engines and steam-shovels and dredges were left to rust and grow useless by exposure."
"I remember we saw some of them near the railway. A good many were more than half-buried in the sand, too," said Vasco.
Thus the boys whiled away the afternoon, and at night, with Mr. Andrews, turned into their berths in the "sleeper."
In the morning, after an early breakfast, theboys started to explore the town. They found that most of the buildings were mere wooden shanties.
"This city makes me think of some of the beach resorts in my country," said Harlan. "The houses are just such flimsy affairs."
There were no cellars, and the houses were set up on stakes. The streets hardly deserved the name, and were littered with all kinds of dirt and filth.
Even Vasco, who could not be accused of being particular, said that he much preferred to live in his own city of Panama.
After dinner, during the hottest part of the day, the boys indulged in asiesta, and later took a walk to Coconut Point, where the French had built a number of fine houses, and cleared and drained the land to make healthful surroundings for the officers of the canal company.
One specially elegant house was built for thesole use of De Lesseps—and he occupied it less than one hour. The whole situation and surroundings were ideal and a splendid reminder of the extravagance of the French canal company.
At night, when the boys returned to their car, Mr. Andrews told them that he had completed his business in Colon, and that they would start on the return trip in the morning.
Afteranother night on the "sleeper" in Colon, Mr. Andrews and the boys started on their return journey. The trip was made as far as Obispo without special incident. Here a halt was made and the train shifted to a side-track. Mr. Andrews was obliged to inspect the site of a proposed dam near Alhajuela. This was about ten miles northwest of Obispo, and the journey would have to be made by a boat and on foot.
It was too far to go that day, so Vasco suggested that they go to Palo Grande and hunt up his uncle, Francisco Herreras. "I am sure," said the boy, "that he will give us all a hearty welcome and be glad to provide shelter and food for us."
"Let's go there," said Harlan to his father. "It will be lots more fun than staying here to-night. It will give us more chance to see the country, too."
Vasco's suggestion was favourably received by Mr. Andrews, who proceeded at once to carry the plan into effect.
On going to the nearest river landing-place to see if he could find a boat and men to row them up-stream, he met with unexpected good fortune. Two natives, who had come down to Obispo with a boat-load of bananas, were just ready to return, and were glad to earn an extra sum by taking along three passengers.
The boat in which passage was secured was a large flat-bottomed affair, suitable for navigation of the shallow stream. On the way up many similar boats were seen, also rude canoes propelled by single persons.
Vasco and Harlan, full of curiosity as boysalways are, were soon on familiar terms with the boatmen, who told them that in former times many of the canoes were hollowed out of the trunks of cottonwood-trees.
The boys learned, too, that the Panama native Indian is a natural sportsman. Parrots, monkeys, pigeons, and small deer are his favourite game. His life is a very simple one. Nature provides him with bread in the shape of bananas and plantains. He makes his own pottery from the clay beneath his feet, and in place of knives and spoons uses gourds cut into proper shape.
He sleeps in a hammock or on a couch of bamboo with hides thrown over it. The hammocks are woven by the women.
All the time the boat was making good progress, and about four o'clock in the afternoon arrived at Palo Grande. On inquiry, it was learned that Señor Herreras lived about two miles west of the river, and aftersecuring definite directions as to the route our friends started to walk to the plantation.
To Vasco, as well as to Harlan, the sights along the way were of special interest, for he knew nothing of country life. The growing corn, tobacco, indigo, coffee, vanilla beans, and other products of the country were a source of wonder to him. Even Mr. Andrews could well believe, with a former visitor to Panama, that "here it would puzzle a healthy man to die of hunger."
In less than an hour Señor Herreras's plantation was reached. It was now Vasco's turn to serve as guide and leader of the party. Finding his uncle at home, he introduced him to his friends, and told him of their desire for food and lodging.
"It is with great pleasure I welcome you all to my humble home," said the señor. "Will you kindly follow me within that you may rest after your long walk, and I will see thatfood is served to you at once. It is about our supper-hour, any way.
"And how is my sister, your mother?" Señor Herreras continued, addressing Vasco. "It has been many a long year since I have seen her."
"She is very well indeed, uncle, and it is because she told me of you that I am here with these friends. She said you would be sure to give us a royal welcome."
"And glad I am you took her advice. I only wish she were with you. Sometime I hope I may get down to the great city to see her."
Meanwhile, all had stepped within the house. The visitors were given an opportunity to remove the travel-stains, and by the time this had been done they were ready for the food which was set before them.
Vasco was specially glad to find that here were two cousins of about his own age, Jagoand Alfeo, and before long the four boys were very well acquainted with each other.
The meal ended, Vasco's uncle inquired of Mr. Andrews as to his plans for the next day.
"I intend to go on up the river to Alhajuela, where I have some business in connection with the canal work."
"Did you expect to take the boys with you?"
"That was my plan."
"Well, why not let them stay here until you return. I will agree to take good care of them, and my boys will show them all about this place. I am sure they would all have a fine time—perhaps better than if they went with you, for boys love boy company."
"You may be right," said Mr. Andrews, "and I think I will accept your generous invitation on behalf of the boys. This is Wednesday, and I shall probably get back here Friday."
"Very well, then, we will consider that settled," said the host.
Early the next morning Mr. Andrews resumed his journey, Vasco's uncle providing a horse and accompanying him as far as the river.
Thus the four lads were left to their own devices.
"Let's take the boys down to the sugar-mill first," said Alfeo to his brother.
"That's a good idea," was Jago's reply, and Vasco and Harlan readily fell in with the suggestion.
Vasco's uncle raised much sugar-cane on his plantation, and in this mill he also did grinding for neighbours who were less fortunate and were unable to possess mills of their own.
Harlan found that the "mill" was not at all like what he imagined, and he regarded it as rather a small affair, but Vasco was immenselyimpressed with the wonderful work it performed.
It consisted of three upright cylinders of very hard wood, two of them about five feet long and one in the centre two feet higher. They were set close to each other, and a crude cog-wheel made the three revolve together.
An arm from the top of the central cylinder extended outward about fifteen feet. To this oxen were attached. Round and round in a circle the animals walked, and as they did so the machinery revolved. The stalks of cane were fed between the cylinders, and the heavy pressure squeezed out the juice, which fell into a large tub below.
Near by the boys saw the juice boiled. A great iron kettle was set in rough stone masonry, and dried cane was used for fuel. The boiling process was watched by an old woman, who was constantly dipping up the syrup with a long-handled gourd dipper.