William II as the prophet Daniel over the porch erected by the Germans with The board in his hands commemorating his downfall:"Sic transit gloria mundi".
William II as the prophet Daniel over the porch erected by the Germans with The board in his hands commemorating his downfall:
"Sic transit gloria mundi".
It will be replaced by a work of Hanaux, a sculptor of Metz, who was responsible for the French monument of Noisseville.
The Cathedral.—Western façade.(Cliché LL.)
The Cathedral.—Western façade.
(Cliché LL.)
The Cathedral.—The Modern Door and the South Façade.(Cliché LL.)
The Cathedral.—The Modern Door and the South Façade.
(Cliché LL.)
There is no church which has so much space open to the light. In the transept and choir it has been calculated that there are 4,071 square metres of window and it is no exaggeration to say that the whole structure is like a huge stained-glass window.
Some of these windows date back to the 13th century. The large rose-window, at the bottom of the nave, which dates from the 16th century, is the work of the master glass worker Hermann. The windows of the north transept date from the 15th century. Those of the south transept, of the choir and the apse, are 16th century.
The bell named "La Mutte", which is in the tower of the same name, did not belong to the church but to the town. The existing bell, which is rung on all great occasions, was cast in 1505. It weighs 13,000 kilos, so that when it is put in motion, a perceptible swaying can be fell in the large spire and in the small spires. It bears the following inscription:
Dame Mutte suis baptisée,De par la Cité ci-poséePour servir à la CitéAux jours de grandes solennités;Et aussi pour crier justice,Prendre ban de bonne police;Les contredire quand bon me sembleEt pour convoquer gens ensemble.
From the top of the Cathedral tower the best general view is obtainable of Metz and the country round. One can realise the importance of its forts round which the Moselle seems to be an immense moat. On the left bank, the hills fall sheer and are a natural defence: on the right, the hills are not so high but are strengthened by a line of forts. Likewise, by seeing them glistening in the distance, a better idea is gained of the many streams which encompass or pass through Metz:the Seille and the stream of Saint-Pierre, the stream of Noisseville, the stream of Châtel-Saint-Germain—the Mosellewhich the canal doubles and which is itself divided, forming in front of Metz the large islandSaint-Symphorien, then, near the dam called Wadrineau, the smaller island ofSaulcy. At the foot of old Metz flows yet another branch of the Moselle which divides in two to isolate on an island thePréfectureand theTheatre. Beyond is the large islandChambière, recognisable by its drill ground and its cemeteries.
After leaving the Cathedral,the Hôtel de Villeis also to be found in the Place d'Armes.It was started in 1766 and finished in 1771. Its style is simple, the façade being ornamented with two pediments and fine grilles. A porch leads to a beautiful staircase. Opposite the stairs is to be seen a bas-relief in white marble on which are engraved the famous line of Ausonius:
"Salve magna parens frugumque virumque Mosella" ...Hail, Moselle, illustrious mother of crops and men!
Inside there are vast banqueting halls where the public sessions of the Academy are held. The Academy of Metz was founded in 1760 by Marshal de Belle-Isle under the title of Royal Society of Letters, Sciences and Arts and endowed with a sum of £60,000.
It was suppressed at the Revolution and re-formed on March 14th, 1819 with the motto "l'Utile" and obtained from Charles X, on September 5th 1828, the title of Royal Academy. It consists of 36 titular members and 18 resident members, in addition to 4 honorary members, correspondents and associates.
The Academy has been largely instrumental in maintaining French culture in Lorraine during the years of annexation.
On the grand staircase are to be seen three stained-glass windows put up in 1582: the middle one is the Duc de Guise after the siege of Metz; the right, the Metz bishop Bertram; the left, the sheriff Pierre Baudoche.
The Place d'Armes and the Hôtel de Ville.(Cliché LL.)
The Place d'Armes and the Hôtel de Ville.
(Cliché LL.)
The flag which floats on its façade is the one previously used in 1870.Carefully preserved in the Carnavalet Museum at Paris, it was returned to the Mayor by the vice-president of the Paris municipal council on December 25th, 1918.
Statue of the VirginT. Martin, Sculptor.(Photo. Prillot, Metz.)
Statue of the Virgin
T. Martin, Sculptor.
(Photo. Prillot, Metz.)
On leaving the Hôtel de Ville, take, to the left of the Place d'Armes, the Rue Fabert (see, on left,the statue of the Virgin), then the Rue des Clercs which is a continuation of it. Coming to the bottom of the Rue des Clercs, on the left is the Place de la République, and on the right the Esplanade.
The magnificent space ofthe Esplanadewas used as a parade ground for the garrison troops.
On the Esplanade, a pretty group at the foot of the Statue of Marshal Ney.(Cliché Prillot, Metz.)
On the Esplanade, a pretty group at the foot of the Statue of Marshal Ney.
(Cliché Prillot, Metz.)
William I knocked off his pedestal by the people of Metz and replaced by the statue of the "Poilu".
William I knocked off his pedestal by the people of Metz and replaced by the statue of the "Poilu".
Ney, Duc d'Elchingen, prince of the Moskwa, was born at Sarrelouis. He is depicted with his rifle in his hand, ready to fire (Photo p. 181).
Next, go to the end of the Esplanade, beyond the music kiosk, on the terrace: there is a magnificent view over Saint-Quentin Hill and Fort, Plappeville fort and the Moselle. TheIsland of SaulcyandPoudrièreexactly opposite will also be seen.
The Statue of the "Poilu" in 1918,erected on the pedestal on which William I used to stand.(Cliché Prillot, Metz.)
The Statue of the "Poilu" in 1918,
erected on the pedestal on which William I used to stand.
(Cliché Prillot, Metz.)
On this terrace used to stand the bronze statue of William I on horseback (1892). The inscription on the pedestal used to state that the statue had been erected to the Emperor "by his grateful people". The conquerorpointed with his finger to Moselle and the powerful forts of Plappeville and Saint-Quentin which protect the town. William I was knocked down headlong some days before the entry of the French (Photo opposite).
The Walk along the Moselle.(Cliché LL.)
The Walk along the Moselle.
(Cliché LL.)
In place of William, a statue "to the victorious poilu" was erected during the night of January 6-7th with the inscription: "We've beaten them". This was done as a pleasant surprise for Marshal Pétain who was coming on the following day to present colours to 16 regiments, and to confer decorations on several officers and men. This statue was made in seven days in a workshop of Metz by the sculptor Bouchard.
ThePalais de Justice, built in 1776,looks out on to the Esplanade. On its site formerly rose the Hôtel de la Haute-Pierre, which belonged to the Duke of Suffolk, lover of Queen Mary of England. He had it pulled down, and built, in a year and six months, the beautiful "Hôtel de Suffolk", which for a long while was used as the town hall. Finally, in 1776, Clairisseaux built the existing palace.The following should be seen: the iron banisters of the great staircase, and, in the interior court, two bas-reliefs, one commemorating the humanity of the Duc de Guise in assisting the soldiers of the Duc d'Albe after the siege had been raised; the other commemorating the peace of 1783 concluded between England, France, Spain, United States of America and Holland. Behind the Palais de Justice stands the beautiful equestrian statue of Lafayette.
Return to the Place de la République and turn right along the Avenue de laCitadelle which separates the Esplanade from the Place de la République. Follow this road, which presently passes, on the left, the Engineers' barracks and then a garden.
Statue of Lafayette(Cliché Prillot.)
Statue of Lafayette
(Cliché Prillot.)
After passing the garden, turn left into the Avenue du Maréchal-Joffre which leads to the Place du Roi-George (in front of the former station).
Not far from the Place, a round toweris visible, the remains of ramparts of the Middle Ages.Leave the old station behind you and go alongside the gardens by the Avenue Serpenoise which follows the tramway; immediately to the left is thePorte Serpenoise (1852).
The Porte Serpenoise.
The Porte Serpenoise.
The Monument of Déroulède.On the right of the Porte Serpenoise stands the statue of Déroulède. To the right extend the modern quarters, with the General Post Office and the Station of Neo-Roman style in very questionable taste.(Cliché Prillot.)
The Monument of Déroulède.
On the right of the Porte Serpenoise stands the statue of Déroulède. To the right extend the modern quarters, with the General Post Office and the Station of Neo-Roman style in very questionable taste.
(Cliché Prillot.)
The General Post Office.(Cliché Prillot.)
The General Post Office.
(Cliché Prillot.)
The Central Station.(Cliché Prillot.)
The Central Station.
(Cliché Prillot.)
The Rue Serpenoise.(Cliché Prillot.)
The Rue Serpenoise.
(Cliché Prillot.)
The Place Saint-Louis and the Arcades.(Cliché LL.)
The Place Saint-Louis and the Arcades.
(Cliché LL.)
Beyond the Place de la République, follow the Rue Serpenoise which is a continuation of the avenue.It is the busiest street in Metz.It is further continued by the Rue Ladoucette which leads to the Rue Fournirue.
Keep right along the Rue Fournirue and then still right along the Rue du Change to reach the Place Saint-Louis.
ThePlace Saint-Louisor du Change was formerly occupied by sixty stalls of money-changers. Some of the houses in the "Place" have preserved their battlements, their pointed or semi-circular arches and their three-cusped casements as well as some Renaissance balconies. This name of Saint-Louis comes from a statue of Louis XIII, found in the ruins of the citadel and converted by the priest of Saint-Simplice into a Louis IX. Mystery plays were acted in the "Place". It was then used for the executions of criminals and after that a corn market.
At the far end of the "Place" take the Rue Royale and then turn left into the Rue Coislin which runs alongside the Coislin barracks (plan below).
The Place Saint-Louis and the Porte des Allemands.
The Place Saint-Louis and the Porte des Allemands.
The Porte des Allemands.View taken from the Quai des Allemands.
The Porte des Allemands.
View taken from the Quai des Allemands.
At the bottom of the Rue Coislin take the Rue Pont-à-Seille which leads to the Place des Charrons, then at the end of the Place, the Rue du Grand-Wad leading to theRampart des Allemandsand continue left as far as thePorte des Allemands.
ThePorte des Allemands, on the Seille, is a remarkable edifice.
It is mentioned as far back as 1324. In the 15th century it was entirely restored by the architect Henri de Banceval.
The Porte des Allemands.
The Porte des Allemands.
From the Porte des Allemands to the Pont Saint-Georges.
From the Porte des Allemands to the Pont Saint-Georges.
Opposite thePorte des Allemands,take the Rue des Allemands(see the interestingchurch of Saint-Eucaireon the right) and continue to the Place des Paraiges.
At the end of the Place, turn right along the Rue Saulnerie and its continuation on the left, the Rue du Paradis leading into the Rue des Capucins. At the end of the latter is the Place des Maréchaux where isSainte-Ségolène Church, built on the site of an oratory founded by Saint Segolene in the 7th century. The present church, built at two different periods (the choirs, the nave and the doorway are earlier than the aisles) dates back to somewhere in the 13th century. The long and narrow windows are mostly in pairs and with a spear-head finish. The side chapels contain beautiful stained-glass windows and there is a curious openwork gallery in the organ-loft and some interesting pictures.
Turn left and take the Rue des Trinitaires, passing an old building with square turrets, near a gateway"Hostel Saint-Ligier".Then turn right into the Rue de la Bibliothèque.
In this street is situated, at the corner of the Rue Chèvremont, a huge building, formerly the church of Petits-Carmes, the work of Sébastien Leclerc, which includes both theLibrary(80,000 volumes and 1,987 manuscripts) and theMuseum(collections of local archaeology, natural history, objets d'arts, and three picture galleries).
At the Museum, take the Rue Chèvremont which ends at the Rue de la Boucherie, into which turn left and so reach thePont Saint-Georges,over the Moselle.
Cross this bridge from which there is a beautiful view (Photopage 190), and enter the Rue du Pont-Saint-Georges. Immediately to the right branches off the Rue Chambière leading to theChambière Cemeterywhere are the graves of the French soldiers who fell during the siege of 1870.
The Moselle as seen from the Pont Saint-Georges.(Cliché LL.)
The Moselle as seen from the Pont Saint-Georges.
(Cliché LL.)
The road runs between the vast slaughterhouse, the cattle market and the huts used as an army storehouse. An old cemetery is crossed with some monumental tombs standing in the midst, and then by skirting the Israelite cemetery and the Moselle themilitary cemeteryis reached.
There are plain tombs under bushy trees. In the centre is a tall pyramid 12 m. high; all the base is represented by numerous coffins piled on each other. There rest the soldiers who died in the hospitals of Metz from wounds received at the battles of Borny, Gravelotte, Saint-Privat, Servigny, Pletre and Ladonchamps. There are 7,203 in all.
Wreathes, tri-coloured cockades, and ribbons have never ceased, for 48 years, to adorn these graves which the ladies of Metz piously decorate with flowers every anniversary.
Return by the same route to the Rue du Pont-Saint-Georges. The Rue Vincentrue is soon reached on the left and should be taken.
Then turn right into the Rue des Bénédictins.
Apply, at No. 7 in this street, to visit theChurch of Saint-Clement.
It was started in 1668. The choir, the nave and the aisle were begun in 1680 by the Italian, Spinga. The West door was damaged in the Revolution. The church is now part of the College founded by the Jesuits, where Marshal Foch began his education.
Return to the Rue des Bénédictins and continue along it until the Rue Saint-Vincent is reached on the left, leading to the "Place" of the same name, on which stands the remarkableChurch of Saint-Vincentbuilt in 1248.
The straight-built nave supported by 12 small-columned pillars, the very regular choir, and the beautiful ogival chapels should certainly be seen.
Continue along the Rue Saint-Vincent on the other side of the "Place". The Rue Saint-Marcel, which is its continuation, leads to the Rue du Pont-à-Morts which should be followed to the left.
Cross the Moselle by the Pont-Moyen(pretty view).Follow the Rue Sainte-Marie which follows the bridge and then turn left along the Rue du Faisan leading to the small and charmingPlace de Chambre.
The Pont Saint-Marcel and the Protestant Church.
The Pont Saint-Marcel and the Protestant Church.
From thePlace de Chambrereturn to theCathedraland thePlace d'Armesby the little Rue d'Estrées.
The Pont-Moyen and the Cathedral as seen from Saulcy Island.(Cliché LL.)
The Pont-Moyen and the Cathedral as seen from Saulcy Island.
(Cliché LL.)
AAvocourt and Wood,120BBayonet Trench,98Bras,105CCharny,108Chattancourt,110Col de Pommerieux,119Combres,135Corbeaux (Wood),115Cumières,109DDame Ravine,102Dombasle,123Douaumont:Mortuary,96Fort,88Village,95EÉparges,129Esnes,102Étain,125to 127FFleury,85Fresnes-en-Woëvre,124HHaie Renard,81Haudromont (Quarries),102Helly Ravine,103Hill 304,118LLa Harazée,156La Haute-Chevauchée,152Le Four-de-Paris,156MMontfaucon,139Malancourt,140Marre (fort),107Metz,165to 191Mort-Homme,112OOie Hill,190PPoivre Hill,104RRomagne,142SSacred Way,122Saint-Rémy,128Souville (fort),76TTavannes (fort),64—(tunnel),65Thiaumont,86Tranchée de Calonne,125Trésauvaux,135VVacherauville (f),107Vauquois,145Vaux (fort),67—(pool),83Verdun,51to 59Varennes,151Voie Sacrée,122
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Two "Poilus" of Vauquois.
Two "Poilus" of Vauquois.
1-4-932-5-258—R. C. no2.213 Clermont-Ferrand—Printed in France.IMP. CUSSAC. PARIS 1927
The Michelin Road Mapof France in 36 sheets.Scale 1:200,000 or 3.15 miles to the inch.Note on the key-map the sheet numbers you require (Verdun No. 57)
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It opens like a book,without risk of tearing in the wind
as occurs frequently with other Maps when unfolded.
The Michelin map is on sale at allBooksellers, Michelin Stockists and Agents.
Transcriber's note:Obvious printer's errors have been corrected.Hyphenation and accentuation have been standardised; all other inconsistencies are as in the original. The author's spelling has been maintained.Other changes made:—"Gallvitz" and "Galwitz" to "Gallwitz".—"the canal that runs parelled" to"the canal that runs parallel"
Transcriber's note:
Obvious printer's errors have been corrected.
Hyphenation and accentuation have been standardised; all other inconsistencies are as in the original. The author's spelling has been maintained.
Other changes made: