Chapter 5

Recaptured trench on Hill 304, August 24th, 1917.

During 1917, the Germans continued stubbornly with their attacks on Hill 304.

On June 28th and 29th, a powerful attack carried Hill 304 and an advance was made between the hill and the south-east corner of Avocourt wood, in a slight hollow, known asCol de Pommerieux. This hollow was, however, reconquered on July 17th by the French 51st and 87th Infantry Regiments, supported by two battalions of the 97th Infantry Division (335th and 346th Regiments) and one battalion of the 73rd Infantry Division. After a remarkable artillery preparation, the French infantrymen, in half-an-hour, reached the fortified crest, and regained a kilometre of ground. The 87th Line Regiment, went 300 yards beyond their allotted objective and captured an observation post, in front of the crest, which they promptly christened "Le créneau de Gretchen". The attack caught the enemy off their guard at the very moment a relief was being carried out, and 520 prisoners belonging to three different divisions were taken.

The top of Hill 304 seen from Pommerieux Plateau.

On August 24th, Hill 304 was wrested from the Germans by the 272nd and 128th Infantry Regiments of the 5th Brigade (Nérel). This brigade which attacked in front of Hill 304, on the Pommerieux plateau and at Camard wood, captured prisoners belonging to five German divisions. Onthe same evening, after capturing Hill 304 this brigade stormed several redoubts and carried the first line to the Forges stream, i.e. more than two kilometres from the starting point.

Avocourt village in March 1916.

From Hill 304, return tothe Esnes Calvaryand from there take the road on the right toAvocourt.

One of the finest feats of arms in the battle of Verdun was performed at Avocourt.

The centre of Avocourt, in April 1916.

On March 20th, 1916, the Germans who had never been able to take the village, attacked the wood with a fresh division, the 11th Bavarian Division.The attack succeeded, with the help of liquid fire. A French counter-attack on the 29th by the 210th Infantry Regiment, and a battalion of the 157th, recaptured the wood and the redoubt known as the "Réduit d'Avocourt". The attacking troops which had not been revictualled for four days, had finished their reserve rations twelve hours previously. So fatigued were they that they slept standing despite the bombardment. To rouse them, their chiefs, at 3 a.m. next morning, ordered the buglers and drummers to play. As the day was breaking the music suddenly stopped, a shell having buried all save one drummer. Furious at this, the men, with the drummer at their head, rushed forward, and by 8 a.m. the wood had been entirely reconquered.

A trench in the ruins of Avocourt in April, 1917.

Site of Avocourt Village in November 1918.

Malancourt Wood in 1916.Photographed from the French line. The sandbags mark the German line.

Malancourt Wood in 1916.

Photographed from the French line. The sandbags mark the German line.

A German dump in Avocourt Wood (August 1919).

A sausage (Observation Balloon) in the neighbourhood of Regret.

From Avocourt, return to Esnes. Again take the Chattancourt road but about 1,500 metres from Esnes, take the road on the right toMontzéville,G. C. 18, as far asDombasle-en-Argonne,where take R. N. 3 toVerdun.

Dombasle was one of the points where the Sainte-Menehould-Verdun railway was bombarded.

Brocourt (4 km. south of Dombasle): Aeroplane hangars hit by shell fire (August 1916).

In the Circuit de Nixéville(the loop which bounds the "Sacred Way" on the north),a regiment entering lorries to be taken to rest billets.

Going throughBlercourt,there are two level crossings to pass: after the second, the"Sacred Way"branches off on the right to Bar-le-Duc, via Souilly.

Refugees from the Verdun District passing throughSouillyalong the"Sacred Way"worn into furrows by motor convoys.

The fate of Verdun, even of France, depended on this road. Disintegrated by frost and thaw, and subjected to the wild rush of transport which in the space of five days raised the fighting strength of the Verdun army from 150,000 to 800,000, this road visibly sank. When General Pétain took command of the battle on February 25th, his first care was to ensure that this road was firm and sound. All along the road 16,000 men divided into gangs were engaged upon the task of repairing it. Quarries were opened in the vicinity, and without interrupting the convoys of lorries which ran at regular intervals, thousands of roadmen threw tons of stones on the road. The road stood up to the strain and carried all necessary supplies up to the vast battle.

Re-enterVerdunby thePorte de France.

LeaveVerdunby the Pont Beaurepaire, Rue de l'Hôtel-de-Ville, Rue St-Sauveur, Rue St-Victor, the Porte Nationale and R. N. 3 (Seeplan of Verdun, exit III).

Follow R. N. 3 for two and a half kilometres and then take R. N. 64, on the right, which follows the Meuse valley, towards Houdainville and Dieue-sur-Meuse. At the latter village, turn left along I. C. 5 to Sommedieue. This very picturesque road climbs through Amblonville forest towards theTranchée de Calonne,I. C. 3 which should be taken on the right.

It is almost straight, crossing the entire Amblonville forest. It was formerly the haunt of poachers and hunters only.

But now the Tranchée de Calonne evokes more tragic memories. From the word "Tranchée" it might be supposed that it was a relic of the Great War. It is not so, however, since for more than a century this name had been given to the road which M. de Calonne, Minister of Finance under Louis XVI, had had laid out on the ridge of hills to approach his château, built at the foot of the Heights of the Meuse. This château was destroyed during the Revolution.

The Tranchée de Calonne.French trenches and observation posts, on the right of the road, in the Taillis de Sauls, in front of the Éparges road (plan on opposite page).

The Tranchée de Calonne.

French trenches and observation posts, on the right of the road, in the Taillis de Sauls, in front of the Éparges road (plan on opposite page).

The story goes that M. de Calonne hoped one day to receive the king in his residence, and wishing to welcome him in a worthy manner, had planted rose trees all along the road. Anyway, during the war wild roses could be seen blooming along this forest road which became indeed a "trench" in the military sense of the word.

The front cut the "tranchée de Calonne" a little to the south-west of Saint-Rémy. On both sides it was bombarded and kept busy with never-ending attacks and counter-attacks.

In March 1915, the French brought into position there naval 140 guns intended for firing at a 12,000 metre range over Éparges, right behind the enemy lines. It was with difficulty that the sailors installed their heavy guns in this clay soil.

This effective bombardment irritated the Germans, who on the 24th, launched a mass attack which reached the third support line.

The naval officers who were isolated in their post with their telephone wires cut and no contact with the infantry, rapidly organised their defence and swept the ground with the fire of their only heavy guns and a few 75s, dragged up by hand, which fired with their sights at zero.

The Germans, however, continued to advance, and on the 25th they were no more than one kilometre from the guns, the only protection for the sailors now being broken down trenches and the remains of barbed wire entanglements. On the 26th, while the sailors were preparing to make a firm stand against the enemy's attack, two French battalions of chasseurs, called in to reinforce, crawled through the undergrowth and gradually got up to the position from which they counter-attacked. On the 27th, thefiring died down, but the Germans reorganised and again attacked on May 5th. The first rush gave them some advantages, which were quickly wrested from them by the arrival in the field of the Moroccan brigade and six battalions of chasseurs who recaptured, in a few hours, all the ground lost on April 24th.

The Tranchée de Calonne.On the left, commences the Éparges road which is impassable for cars.

The Tranchée de Calonne.

On the left, commences the Éparges road which is impassable for cars.

The Tranchée de Calonne enters the forest, every part of which was used by both sides during the war for engineers' and artillery parks, aid posts, shelters, small-gauge railways and gun emplacements of which trace can still be found.

On the left the bifurcation of Mont-sous-les-Cotes is passed.

Soon the forest clears and then only blackened tree stumps are seen, cut by shot and shell, as the old lines are crossed.

Pass the road junction, to the left of the Éparges road, a road which is broken up and impassable. Continue along the Tranchée de Calonne which crosses, at 1,500 metres, the hill of Senoux near which were the enemy first line trenches. Turn left along I. C. 13 in the direction of Saint-Rémy. After 2½ kilometres the road descends as far as the stream of Longeau or Éparges.

All along this road, on the left side, the Germans had built into the hill concrete dug outs, pillboxes, underground galleries and headquarters posts and there are also some German tombs.

Tranchée de Calonne Road to Saint-Rémy.(German dug-outs).

Saint-Rémy Church and Village.On the right the horizon is bounded by Combres Ridge, on the left by Éparges Crest.

Saint-Rémy Church and Village.

On the right the horizon is bounded by Combres Ridge, on the left by Éparges Crest.

On reaching the valley, near the stream, there are cross-roads, the roadon right leading toSaint-Rémy,the ruins of which can be seen. Continue straight on toCombres,along an uphill road. Beyond the crest, at a sharp turn to the right, opposite a large blockhouse, get out of the car and proceed leftalong the path to the Éparges crest, which at first runs along the south slope of the spur in the old German positions. Notice on the right the entrances to many huge mine galleries which, under the crest, communicate with the openings on the north slope. The path rises to the eastern edge of the spur, point X (on plan), whence there is a wide view over the Woëvre. Return along the trenches on the crest. On the north slopes were the French lines containing a series of huge mine craters organised into defensive positions. At the highest point marked by a sign post, an excellent general view of the position is obtained.

Éparges Spur.The path of the itinerary is shown by a dotted line.

Éparges Spur.

The path of the itinerary is shown by a dotted line.

Éparges spur, 1,400 metres in length and 346 in height, dominates the Woëvre plain. Its sides are steep and slippery, springs break out of the soil and small streams drain down its slopes. It is in very truth, as it has been called, "a mountain of mud". It is a magnificent observation post which dominates the surrounding country. "He who holds Éparges, has all the roads under fire".

The Germans gained possession of Éparges on September 21st 1914 and quickly organised several lines of trenches between the summit and the valleys; at certain points five ranges of fire could be brought to bear on a point, and the whole crest was transformed into a strong redoubt, flanked east and west with two bastions.

The French occupied, to the North, the brow of Montgirmont and Éparges village, about 600 metres from the German trenches.

It was at the West part of the Spur (point C) that, at the end of October,the French commenced their attack, step by step, to the sap, at the same time penetrating into the woods which cover the flanks of the ravine.

Éparges in February 1915.—A trench in front of the point C.

In February there started a series of almost daily attacks and counter-attacks, only finishing at the beginning of April. On February 17th, thanks to a mine explosion, the French got a footing in the enemy first line; attacks and counter-attacks lasted five days during which Colonel Bacquel was mortally wounded at the head of his troops. The French held all the west bastion and they started to advance towards the east bastion. From March 13th to 21st, they returned to the attack and occupied the enemy front line.

On March 27th a battalion of chasseurs made a fresh push, bringing them nearer the summit. On April 5th, started the last big attack which the 12th Division was to carry on day and night until the 9th. The rain and muddy ground seemed for the moment to hold them back and render their efforts in vain.

In the evening, part of the crest was occupied but the use of aerial torpedoes which blotted out whole ranks of men, and a massed counter-attack, launched on the morning of the following day at 4.30 a.m., robbed them of the gains of the first advance. During the evening of the 6th and all the night of the 6-7th, in spite of a continuous downpour, the trenches were recaptured step by step, with 100 prisoners including several officers.

On the 8th the summit and the west ridge were firmly occupied and at midnight, after fifteen hours of furious and uninterrupted fighting practically the whole ridge was in French hands.

On the night of the 8-9th, it took fourteen hours to get fresh troops into position in squalls of rain and a blinding wind. The attack was resumed at 3 p.m. on the 9th, the ground being hollowed out into deep pits into which men sometimes disappeared altogether. Finally the French held the west bastion (point C), the fortified curtain and stood their ground in front of the east part (point X).

Éparges in February 1915.—A shell bursting on a front line trench.

Éparges.—In a captured enemy trench; a prisoner being taken behind the lines.

A mine crater at the extremity of the spur, point X. (60 metres in diameter, 30 in depth).

At the end of 1915 and in 1916 the struggle was rather less bitter but still deadly enough: the story of a mine exploded by the Germans, as told by a young Lieutenant of the 74th Infantry Regiment, brings out vividly the tragic side.

"On the evening before, I had relieved, between the point "X" and the point "C", a section of the 129th. My night had been spent in visiting my posts and establishing contact. At daybreak I returned to my hole, a mine listening gallery running down crosswise for about 15 metres. Everything was quiet and it appeared that the enemy had done no work for two days on their mine chamber. Were we going to be blown up? No one dreamt it would be so."About 4 p.m. we distinguished quite plainly the detonations of several petards. "Good, the Boches are working, we are alright for to-day!""At that very moment we heard a formidable rumbling, our dug-out rocked and came to earth again as though a Hercules had lifted it several metres high and then let it fall again with a bump. We were turned topsy-turvy one on top of the other in the darkness."Cries were heard, some one was wounded. We lighted a candle and extricated the man who fortunately had nothing the matter. "Come on, boys, at them with bombs"."To get out—the exit was blocked three metres high at least. Moreover a stream of water had been let in at the higher end of the sap."Without loss of time we got down to work. To reach the piled up debris a man had to crawl in the midst of the stream, flat on his stomach, and only one could work at a time."An hour passed, then two, centuries it seemed. The water rose, the air became less and less pure."I spare you the agony of a man who perceived that his end was near, who saw it coming and knew that he could not escape it."It was now three hours since the mine went up. The water had reached our feet. The candles had gone out, we could breathe only with the greatest difficulty, and everything seemed to be going round."All of a sudden a cry was heard: "Lieutenant, here is the daylight." A man had succeeded in making a hole through the mud with the barrel of his rifle.

"About 4 p.m. we distinguished quite plainly the detonations of several petards. "Good, the Boches are working, we are alright for to-day!"

"At that very moment we heard a formidable rumbling, our dug-out rocked and came to earth again as though a Hercules had lifted it several metres high and then let it fall again with a bump. We were turned topsy-turvy one on top of the other in the darkness.

"Cries were heard, some one was wounded. We lighted a candle and extricated the man who fortunately had nothing the matter. "Come on, boys, at them with bombs".

"To get out—the exit was blocked three metres high at least. Moreover a stream of water had been let in at the higher end of the sap.

"Without loss of time we got down to work. To reach the piled up debris a man had to crawl in the midst of the stream, flat on his stomach, and only one could work at a time.

"An hour passed, then two, centuries it seemed. The water rose, the air became less and less pure.

"I spare you the agony of a man who perceived that his end was near, who saw it coming and knew that he could not escape it.

"It was now three hours since the mine went up. The water had reached our feet. The candles had gone out, we could breathe only with the greatest difficulty, and everything seemed to be going round.

"All of a sudden a cry was heard: "Lieutenant, here is the daylight." A man had succeeded in making a hole through the mud with the barrel of his rifle.

Éparges Spur photographed from the air.The series of mine craters and chambers (seeplan p. 115).

Éparges Spur photographed from the air.

The series of mine craters and chambers (seeplan p. 115).

"At last! Everyone felt restored to life. Already we could breathe again. Our candles would burn."After another half-hour we got out of this hell and it was time too."Where were we? In the enemy's lines or our own? What had happened during these four hours? What had become of my posts?"I pointed out to my men the direction of our lines and I tried to regain my bearings. But the aspect of the ground had completely altered. For half-an-hour I probed the darkness. I could make nothing of it, when, suddenly, I seemed to see two shadows. I made myself known, but the two men moved off and fired a star-shell in my direction. It was a German star-shell."I made my way to the rear and reached the Battalion Command Post at Bois Joli. I had been posted "missing"."No one had news of my section. I went back to the line and found a corporal and two men who were in the line at the time of the explosion. For four hours they had prevented the enemy patrols from investigating the ground and occupying it. They were the sole survivors."

"At last! Everyone felt restored to life. Already we could breathe again. Our candles would burn.

"After another half-hour we got out of this hell and it was time too.

"Where were we? In the enemy's lines or our own? What had happened during these four hours? What had become of my posts?

"I pointed out to my men the direction of our lines and I tried to regain my bearings. But the aspect of the ground had completely altered. For half-an-hour I probed the darkness. I could make nothing of it, when, suddenly, I seemed to see two shadows. I made myself known, but the two men moved off and fired a star-shell in my direction. It was a German star-shell.

"I made my way to the rear and reached the Battalion Command Post at Bois Joli. I had been posted "missing".

"No one had news of my section. I went back to the line and found a corporal and two men who were in the line at the time of the explosion. For four hours they had prevented the enemy patrols from investigating the ground and occupying it. They were the sole survivors."

On Éparges Spur: Destroying the German system with bombardments of 75s. (April 1915).

Éparges Monument.(Photo Sommer)

Éparges Monument.

(Photo Sommer)

Coming into Éparges from Saint-Rémy in 1920.On the right, Montgirmont mound. On the left, Hures Hill.

Coming into Éparges from Saint-Rémy in 1920.

On the right, Montgirmont mound. On the left, Hures Hill.

Return to the car by the same path.

Continue straight along and rejoin, at Combres, G. C. D. 10 that leads to Fresnes or making a half-turn, go down to the cross-roads of Saint-Rémy, turn to the right towardsÉparges,cross the village, and keep on towardsTrésauvauxpassing between the crest of Montgirmont and Hures Hill, on the left (photo above), and so reach Fresnes-en-Woëvre.

Éparges Village in 1915.

Éparges Village in 1915.Barricade of boxes filled with earth barring the main street: on the right, the church.

Éparges Village in 1915.

Barricade of boxes filled with earth barring the main street: on the right, the church.

At Fresnes turn left, on leaving the village, towards Manheulles and follow R. N. 3 straight on to Verdun.

Éparges Village.A cemetery in front of the last house on the right on the road to Trésauvaux.

Éparges Village.

A cemetery in front of the last house on the right on the road to Trésauvaux.

Mort Ravine (1915)(Seeplan p. 129).Dug-outs and French mine entrances on the slope of Éparges Spur.

Mort Ravine (1915)(Seeplan p. 129).

Dug-outs and French mine entrances on the slope of Éparges Spur.

General view of the Éparges Range, taken from the crest of Montgirmont.A. The Woëvre.—B. The trench from which the photo was taken, on the crest of Montgirmont.—C. The Éparges crest.—D. Mort ravine.—E. Dug-outs on the side of Éparges Hill, F. A Trench.

General view of the Éparges Range, taken from the crest of Montgirmont.

A. The Woëvre.—B. The trench from which the photo was taken, on the crest of Montgirmont.—C. The Éparges crest.—D. Mort ravine.—E. Dug-outs on the side of Éparges Hill, F. A Trench.

Fresnes-en-Woëvre.—The Statue of General Margueritte.

Ronvaux village at the foot of the Meuse Heights in 1917.

This itinerary is a continuation of the circuit of the left bank of the Meuse. It joins it at the village of Esnes (seeplan above, on the right).

Tourists who do not wish to prolong their itinerary by the loop Montfaucon-Romagne can make straight for Vauquois, then, in Argonne, by the G. C. 28, the road from Esnes to Varennes via Avocourt and Vauquois.

Tourists starting from Sainte-Menehould can reach Varennes by R. N. 3 from Islettes and Clermont-en-Argonne road: from Clermont, climb the Aire valley as far as Varennes, then Vauquois by G. C. 2a and R. N. 46.

This itinerary joins up with that from Champagne via Vienne-la-Ville and Ville-sur-Tourbe.

Starting from Esnes by G. C. 18, the road climbs to Hill 304, then falls to Forges stream and Malancourt, beyond which were our first lines from 1914 to 1916.

The road then climbs towards the peak of Montfaucon, one of the most famous German observation posts along the whole front. This peak embraced a horizon extending from the plains of Champagne to the Heights of the Meuse.

From Hill 304 the tourist traverses the battle area of the 79th American Division when the latter attacked the formidable heights of Montfaucon on September 26th 1918.

To the 313th American Regiment fell the honour of making a direct attack on Montfaucon while the other regiments of the division had to outflank the peak right and left. Reaching the bottom of the slopes the 313th attacked with two tanks at nightfall. They were overwhelmed with a deluge of fire and forced to withdraw to the northern edges of Montfaucon wood.

Through the aperture of the observation post below.

On the following morning they returned to the attack, supported by tanks and a barrage of machine guns. At 11 a.m. the 313th entered the village and at 1 p.m. units of the 27th Division effected contact with the victors.

The Observation post of Montfaucon.It was constructed on the site of and with the ruins of the church.

The Observation post of Montfaucon.

It was constructed on the site of and with the ruins of the church.

Montfaucon.—The Church in October 1918.

Montfaucon. Arch of the North Aisle, taken from the Choir.In the background in front of the trees, the German observation post.

Montfaucon. Arch of the North Aisle, taken from the Choir.

In the background in front of the trees, the German observation post.

The immense American Necropolis of Romagne-sous-Montfaucon in 1922.In this cemetery, the most impressive in existence, the Americans have massed together 25,500 graves.

The immense American Necropolis of Romagne-sous-Montfaucon in 1922.

In this cemetery, the most impressive in existence, the Americans have massed together 25,500 graves.

Romagne.Straight ahead is the road to Bantheville.

A large number of bodies have since been taken to the United States, but 15,000 graves still remain in this cemetery.

From Montfaucon follow I. C. 4 to Cierges and Romagne. In Romagne, near the church keep right along the Cunel road and cross the bridge. About 250 metres beyond the village, the vast American cemetery of Romagne on the slopes of a hill comes into view. Return to the church, then follow the Charpentry-Varennes road, G. C. 2a.

Pass through Eclisfontaine and then Charpentry. Beyond this village the road descends the valley of Aire. Two kilometres beyond the village, turn left along R. N. 46 to Varennes.

In Varennes, after crossing the railway, and before reaching the church, turn left for 200 metres, then turn left again along G. C. 38 which goes down to Vauquois. Cross the railway and about 4 kilometres from Varennes, take the road leading right to the new village of Vauquois at the foot of the famous mound.

Panoramic View of Vauquois Crest taken from the Varennes-Avocourt road(German lines).

Vauquoisis one of the famous points of the Argonne battlefield. The Germans took it in September, 1914, during a strong attack on the French 3rd Army, in their efforts to encircle Verdun. The ridge concealed their operations to the north of Varennes, covered the re-victualling of the Argonne front by the Four-de-Paris road, and in addition furnished their artillery with an excellent observation post. The importance of the position caused the Germans to convert it into a veritable fortress. Caves were made in the rock and connected by underground passages. The streets of the village were excavated, so that the vent-holes of the cellars formed loop-holes on a level with a man's head. The walls of the houses and gardens were battlemented, and trenches were dug in the slopes in front of the village. The position was supported and flanked by the guns in the Woods of Cheppy, Montfaucon and Argonne. Approach was the more difficult, in that the position was surrounded on all sides by ravines and glacis, which provided admirable firing positions for the machine-guns.

This formidable position, which, earlier in the war, before the improvement in the French artillery, would have been considered impregnable, was taken by the French 10th Infantry Division (Valdant) after heroic sacrifices. The first assaults especially, made without artillery preparation or support, cost the splendid French Infantry heavy losses.

The first attack was made on October 28, 1914, by two battalions of the 46th Regiment of the line. The French front lines were then on the Mamelon Blanc, facing Vauquois. Two companies debouching from Noir Wood attacked the western slopes of Vauquois, the sections deployed inskirmishing order, without artillery preparation, and without a single big French gun being fired on the village. As the men dashed forward up the slopes, they were shot down by the carefully concealed German riflemen, but continued nevertheless to advance, in spite of the rain of bullets, till an avalanche of big German shells overwhelmed and scattered them. At the end of half an hour almost all of them were out of action.

The second assault was made on the following day (the 29th), after a very short artillery preparation, during which only a few shells were fired, most of which failed to burst. Fresh companies attacked further to the right, near the Cigalerie. The men charged with the bayonet, but as on the previous day, were mown down by the German machine-guns and rifles, and failed, after heavy losses. At night, an attempt to rescue the wounded left on the field was unsuccessful, the enemy firing pitilessly on the stretcher-bearers, in spite of the Red Cross lantern.

The third assault was carried out on February 17th, 1915. The operation went near to success. The artillery preparation with 75's, 155's and 270's lasted more than twelve hours. Before the attack, three mines should have gone up and destroyed the enemy lines. Only one exploded, but not being dug deep enough into the hill, the effect was merely that of a small mine and the stones thrown up fell back for the most part on the starting off trench, killing or wounding 30 men. In spite of the confusion created by the mine, the men climbed the ladders and proceeded to the attack. The band of the 31st Line Regiment, grouped on the Mamelon Blanc, in full view of the enemy, played theMarseillaise. In a few minutes several bandsmen fell killed or wounded, but the attacking waves had gone forward and the survivingbandsmen sounded the charge. The colonel of the 31st, who was leading the attack, fell mortally wounded but the companies leading the attack scaled the slopes of Vauquois. The 31st charged into Vauquois and reached the ruins of the church, but caught by the fire of the Argonne and Montfaucon batteries and the machine guns of Cheppy, they were forced after heavy losses to fall back. Abandoning the plateau they held on half-way down the hill.

Vauquois Hill as seen from an aeroplane (August 1918).V. V.: V. de Vauquois; B. N. Noir Wood; V. Vauquois, site of the village; C. Cigalerie Farm; M. the Maize; M. B. Mamelon Blanc; F. H. Hesse Forest; B. C. Cheppy Wood.

Vauquois Hill as seen from an aeroplane (August 1918).

V. V.: V. de Vauquois; B. N. Noir Wood; V. Vauquois, site of the village; C. Cigalerie Farm; M. the Maize; M. B. Mamelon Blanc; F. H. Hesse Forest; B. C. Cheppy Wood.

A fourth attack was carried out on February 28th with no more success. At last, on March 1st, the decisive attack was executed by the 31st, supported by the 46th and the 89th. The preparation was further improved. A plan of the village, of which only the ruins were left, was issued to the troops. Each company had its precise objectives and the men were armed, for the first time, with the new hand-grenades, charged with melanite.

The bombardment began at dawn. Big guns shattered the dug-outs, and 75's hoisted to the top of Mamelon Blanc, and fed by infantry who carried up shells on their backs, fired directly on the village.

The start off was magnificent. Suddenly, a flashing line of bayonets stood erect on the flank of the hill.

Vauquois HillThe slope occupied by the French lines: view taken from the Mamelon Blanc.In the foreground, the Gabionnade, then the road from Boureuilles to Cheppy and the communicating trenches leading to the front line at the top of the hill.In the background was the pretty village of Vauquois of which nothing is left.

Vauquois Hill

The slope occupied by the French lines: view taken from the Mamelon Blanc.

In the foreground, the Gabionnade, then the road from Boureuilles to Cheppy and the communicating trenches leading to the front line at the top of the hill.

In the background was the pretty village of Vauquois of which nothing is left.

The slope was hard to climb. Standing on the parapet a bugler madly sounded the charge until he was laid low by a bullet. At his observation post, General Valdant, who was following the attack, turning with great emotion to his officers, raised his kepi, and said: "Gentlemen, salute!" The fight was stubborn: twice the troops, dashing from one shell-hole to another, reached the plateau, the second time standing firm. The houses were taken one by one, and the church reached. The village had been wiped out—only shell-holes, heaps of stones, bits of walls and shattered cellars remained. Throughout the next day the Germans shelled the defenders,who were armed only with rifles. Outflanked, the French were slowly forced back from shell-hole to shell-hole, fighting all the time, but their line of defence, organised under fire on the edge of the plateau, brought the enemy to a standstill.

On Vauquois HillA mountain gun placed in position on Vauquois hill, after the attacks of March 1915. This photograph was taken ten minutes before the gun was destroyed by a 210 shell (Seeopposite).

On Vauquois Hill

A mountain gun placed in position on Vauquois hill, after the attacks of March 1915. This photograph was taken ten minutes before the gun was destroyed by a 210 shell (Seeopposite).

At 2 p.m. the French infantry again attacked the village, carried the German trenches, entered the ruins at 2.35 p.m. and drove back the enemy at the point of the bayonet. At 3, 4, 5 and 5.30 p.m., the Germans counter-attacked, but although troops of fourteen different units were successively launched, they could not dislodge the French from the main street. Twice during the night they tried, in vain, to take the church. For four days and nights, under an incessant pounding by high-explosive shells and a rain of bullets, the French troops held on, without supplies, dependent for their food on the rations taken from the dead. The Colonial Infantry, who for a short time relieved the attacking troops, were decimated in a few days. The Germans were already making use of a powerful minenwerfer, to which the French could only reply with hastily-devised mortars roughly made out of 77 mm. shell-cases, and which carried only 100-150 yards. It was an unequal contest. The Germans attacked almost every night, but were repulsed with hand-grenades and rifle fire, sometimes with the bayonet. The position became untenable, and the French had either to retreat or advance. Once more they attacked.

On the afternoon of March 4th, the 76th Line Regiment took the German trenches west of the church, and reached the wall of the cemetery in spite of small mines being blown up under their feet, and the enemy's bombs. On the 5th a German counter-attack was repulsed.

The capture of Vauquois by the French was definite. During the night of the 15th-16th, a fresh German attack was easily repulsed. On the 16th, at the Cigalerie, which during the attacks of February and March had served as a dressing station, Standard-bearer Collignon, of the 46th Regiment of the line, Councillor of State, and former Secretary-General to the Presidency ofthe Republic, who had voluntarily enlisted at the age of fifty-eight, was killed by the explosion of a shell while trying to rescue a wounded man belonging to the 76th Regiment of the line. Ever since, at Regimental roll-calls, his name follows that of La Tour d'Auvergne, and the reply is made: "Died on the field of honour".

On Vauquois Ridge.Clearing out the shelter under which the mountain gun, photographed opposite, used to fire, after its destruction by a 210.

On Vauquois Ridge.

Clearing out the shelter under which the mountain gun, photographed opposite, used to fire, after its destruction by a 210.

Monument erected to the memory of "Poilus", killed in the attacks on Vauquois.

Cazeneuve, of the Opéra Comique, Adjutant of the 46th Regiment of the line, who had volunteered at the age of fifty-four, was also killed at Vauquois by a bomb which shattered his dug-out.

Vauquois for long remained a particularly dangerous sector, the scene of frequent surprise attacks, of mining and counter-mining, and of continuous bombardment. The Germans were not reconciled to the loss of this position, which gave the French an outlook over Varennes and the road which formed a continuation of the light railway which they had built between Montfaucon and Spincourt. On March 22, 1915, near the ruins of the church, they attacked a trench with liquid fire. Mines were exploded almost every month, followed by fighting for possession of the craters.

The battle of Verdun was followed by comparative calm in this sector, both sides practically abandoning mine warfare.In 1917, there was hardly anything except surprise raids or reconnoitring parties. On September 26th 1918, the first day of the Franco-American offensive, the outskirts north of Vauquois were completely cleared and Boureuilles was captured by the Americans.

On Vauquois Ridge: the front line trench.

After visiting Vauquois, return to and followG. C. 38toVarennes(214 miles).

At the Foot of the Mamelon Blanc.Crater formed by a 380 German shell. On the right, Colonel Cuny commanding the 31st I. R.

At the Foot of the Mamelon Blanc.

Crater formed by a 380 German shell. On the right, Colonel Cuny commanding the 31st I. R.

Varennes.—The Place du Marché.On the right, the ruins of the house where Louis XVI was arrested.

Varennes.—The Place du Marché.

On the right, the ruins of the house where Louis XVI was arrested.

Coming from Vauquois, the lower town is entered, opposite the church. Cross the bridge over the Aire. The Rue de la Basse-Cour brings you to the Place du Marché where you will see, on the right, the ruins of the house in which Louis XVI spent the night before his arrest.

Drouet who had recognised the king at Sainte-Menehould, reached Varennes before him by a short cut. The whole town, aroused by the tocsin, assembled and compelled the king's carriage to stop.

German Dug-outs said to have been used by the Crown Prince in Grurie Wood.(Photo Sommer.)

German Dug-outs said to have been used by the Crown Prince in Grurie Wood.

(Photo Sommer.)

Ascend to the upper town which is situated on the slope of a hill. On leaving the village turn right along G. C. 38, the road to Vienne-le-Château, which climbs towards the forest of Argonne. At the edge of the plateau look behind for a view of the Aire valley and Vauquois Hill. About 3 kilometres past Varennes, a road leads right to some German dug-outs said to be those of the Crown Prince.

Return to the Vienne-le-Château road.

One kilometre further and 200 metres beyond the highest point of the road, the Haute-Chevauchée road branches off right and left, an old Roman road running along the central ridge of the Argonne plateau.

Turn left and drive carefully for the first two kilometres which are in pretty bad repair.

The road passes through Bas-Jardinet Woods, which are full of gun emplacements. On leaving the woods, the road climbs towards Hill 285. On the right and behind this hill are the sectors of Fille-Morte and Courte-Chausse, the scene of struggles as stubborn as those in Grurie Wood.

Craters on Hill 285 dividing the two lines.

The Haute-Chevauchée road is the central pivot where the Germans endeavoured, on July 13th 1915, to dent in the French front so as to reach Clermont-en-Argonne and the Sainte-Menehould-Verdun railway.

On July 13th, the 113th Regiment held the sector of Haute-Chevauchée, on their right the 4th held Hill 263, while on the left the 91st were on the plateau of Bolante. After an annihilating fire which completely destroyed these sectors, five regiments of the 16th German Corps broke through the French lines. The Germans, who no longer had any troops to face, believed that they could march unhindered to the south. Already the enemy patrols had reached the cross road of Maison Forestière, 2 kilometres south of Hill 285.

The 82nd and 66th Battalions of chasseurs and the 131st who had just been relieved received warning at their billets and went up into the line under a barrage of enemy fire, by paths marked out with corpses, through ravinesfull of poison gas. The men, who were exhausted by a whole night's march, hurried forward, gasping and almost suffocated. The order was given to the infantry and chasseurs to counter-attack. The 3rd Battalion of the 131st, led by their commander, swarmed up the steep slope of Bolante plateau. The Germans crouching among the tall ferns endeavoured to withstand them, but they were sharply hustled and did not waste time in turning tail. Bolante plateau and the crest of Fille-Morte were cleared at the point of the bayonet, without artillery support. Further to the right, the 66th Battalion of chasseurs captured Hill 285, while the 82nd, with three battalions in the field, recaptured the crest joining Hills 285 and 263.

The 1st Battalion of the 82nd relieved the battalion of the 4th which was defending the redoubt of Hill 263.

The line was established along Hill 285.

By going on as far as the cross road at the Maison Forestière, the large cemetery is reached.

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